Clear drawings for creating the most effective do-it-yourself stove. Do-it-yourself stove stove: a diagram of a home-made potbelly stove for a summer residence and a garage The most economical potbelly stove

The potbelly stove is an iron, compact-sized stove with a chimney at the top. It consists of a chamber where solid fuel is poured, a grate in the form of a metal lattice, a chimney and an ash pan for collecting ash.

With the ability to handle a welding machine, the device is easy to manufacture, while it will serve faithfully in an unheated room, in the field, in the absence of centralized heating for more than a dozen years.

How to do it yourself?

Manufacturing options:

Rectangular oven

It is a metal box, you can independently weld a structure from steel sheets. For a rectangular potbelly stove, an old car tank, a box, is quite suitable.

Usually, this form is chosen when it is necessary to cook food on the oven.

On a spacious platform, you can put 2 large pots at once, or containers for heating water.

The manufacturing principle is simple: doors are being built covering the blower and the combustion chamber, a hole is made for the chimney, combustion products must leave the room in a timely manner, otherwise you can breathe in carbon monoxide.

From a gas cylinder

The most common type of potbelly stove. The cylinders have thick walls, the oven is durable, mobile, non-combustible.

First, a drawing is drawn, markings are made. The combustion chamber door will be located in the center of the cylinder. The blower was in the same plane, only 10 - 12 cm lower.

Instructions:

We take a grinder, cut out both doors, draw a closed line between them.
Along the line we saw the balloon into 2 parts.
At the bottom weld on the grate - blower.
Install lattice, weld both parts again.
For valve make a hole in a radius of 10 cm.
For hood we insert a hole into the pipe, weld objects by welding.
Simple stove ready from the cylinder, you can use it, throw in the fuel and check its operation.

For cooking on the top of the stove, the design is slightly different:

Cut off the top of the balloon.
Are inserted inside and the rods are welded.
Side above a hole for the pipe is cut. You can heat and cook food at the same time.
Brewed hole, the valve is screwed in, the comfortable handle adjusts.
Out of the pipe, barrels can also be made to bake. The barrel or pipe must be selected by diameter.
At the bottom of the barrel cut out the pipes 2 holes for the firebox and ash pan.
Make doors.
Make framing holes made of metal strips.
Under the furnace door at a distance of 10 - 12 cm inside the barrel, weld the brackets in the corners, the grate will lie on them, weld it first from any reinforcement.

When making a stove from a pipe, weld the bottom of it, as well as a part from the top:

Down to the bottom weld 4 legs.
On a surface cut a hole, weld a pipe to it, this will be a chimney.
Weld the hinges to the previously cut holes, install the doors. Also, mark and attach the hook so that the doors lock tightly.
For design aesthetics clean all weld seams and clean them 10. Paint the outside of the device with heat resistant paint. Whatever the factory product, you can sell or use it yourself.

Working furnace

The variant is distinguished by a specific smell, which, in the process of fuel combustion, will be emitted by oil working, even with a hood.

Instructions:

To make this model, pick up sheet material at least 4 mm thick, chimney pipe, separate small structural elements.
Make on a sheet accurate markings of all elements, having previously drawn a drawing.
Embed all elements with a grinder, clean the edges of the parts. Drill holes round shape in the pipe.
At the top of the tank cut the pipe hole off-center to the left.
Offset to the right drill a hole on the circumference for the connecting pipe.
It turned out 2 circles, weld them to the pipe, the thickness of the upper tank will depend on its section.
Decorate the bottom of the stove in the same way., but now cut the hole directly in the center of the marked circle.
Cut beside the second hole, attach the sliding cover to it.
Weld to the bottom plane 4 legs.
Clean the seams after welding, paint the surface with high temperature resistant paint.
Connect the chimney to the stove. The waste will be poured into the lower part of the tank, after the paper is ignited, the sliding cover closes, and the waste starts to burn. Oxygen will penetrate through the holes, mining will burn intensively.

Required materials, tools

Before starting work, prepare the tools:

metal brush;
chisel, pliers, hammer;
tape measure, chalk;
drill with drills for metal;
grinder;
circles for metal;
welding machine;
protective mask;

For the case, you need a pipe 30 cm in diameter, at least 5 mm thick. You can use sheet metal of the same thickness instead of a pipe.

For the chimney, you should choose a pipe 12 cm in diameter, at least 3-4 mm thick. To avoid burning out, a metal box is suitable for the ash pan, so you need to pick up durable sheet metal.

Step by step guide

First you need to cut the metal, taking into account the thickness and length of the required workpieces.

Chamfer the parts for a safer touch and stronger weld seams:

Check the correct markings of the parts before starting to cut them. When cutting, take into account the thickness of the walls of the oven, also of the circle.
Remove the chamfers from the prepared parts for safety from accidental contact with the hot device.
Check all part markings.

The structure is installed in the following sequence:

Connect welding machine to the network.
Take an electrode with a thickness of 4 - 5 mm, taking into account a sheet or pipe.
Install current on the device up to 160 A.
Put on special glasses and overalls, protect your hands with gaiters.
To the bottom of the oven weld three walls.
Bottom of the device position from the floor at least 5 cm.
Connect parts at right angles. Check their perpendicularity with a level.
Where you need it, trim the corners of the parts.
Weld parts and joints relative to the floor level, at an angle of 45 degrees.
Weld between the blower and the firebox, a partition, having previously cut holes so that ash does not accumulate.
Withstand the distance between the holes is at least 5 cm from the walls of the stove. The distance between the partition and the bottom of the structure must remain at least 10 cm.
Last but not least by welding cut the holes for installing the chimney on the rear panel homemade oven.
Make markups, drill rectangular holes in the places intended for the firebox and blower.
Combine with a partition all the lower parts of the holes. The distance between the walls of the firebox and the upper side edges should be at least 3 - 5 cm. The opening for the blower is slightly smaller, but not more than 5 cm.
Grinder cut two holes from the metal, form the doors. Weld them on the awnings, raise the blower to the maximum to the top of the slab opening so that they do not sag in the future under the influence of high temperatures.
To the doors weld the bolts, they should open and close easily, without obstacles.

After all welding work, check the quality of the seams, tap them. If there are defects, fix them immediately. At the end of the work, weld the top of the device.

How to make a long burning stove?

In order for the stove to radiate heat as long as possible without throwing up the next portion of firewood, it does not burn out quickly, it is possible, the fuel will not burn, but smolder, the heating process without laying firewood can be extended for several hours.

The manufacture of a furnace for long burning is somewhat different from the usual design.

A cylinder is best suited for the oven:

Cut the top off it, this will be the cover of the stove.
Make a hole at the top and side of the stove, this will be the hood.
Make a hole in the center so that you can easily insert the balloon.
Weld to the cut out hole of the pancake pipe, in length slightly higher than the cylinder. The pipe will serve as a blower, and oxygen will enter the furnace, the fuel will not smolder, and will not burn.
Cut part of the cylinder in the center, insert a pipe into the hole as a blower. The principle of operation of a long-burning stove is to create pressure inside the chamber. After the wood fires up, a heavy metal circle plunges inside, begins to put pressure on the fuel, create pressure on it, the fuel begins to lack oxygen and slowly smolder. The smoke, heading up, comes out through the chimney, the room will not be smoky.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other heating device, the stove has both pros and cons.

The undoubted advantages of a homemade stove are:

Compact dimensions.
Use of any available fuel, can be heated with peat, wood, sawdust, wood chips, coal.
Low cost of manufacturing the device, basically you can get by with handy materials.
Installation of the structure does not require laying a foundation, chimney.

The disadvantages of the oven include:

Quite high consumption fuel material, the principle is as follows: while you heat - warm. To prevent the room from cooling down, you need to throw up fuel more often, otherwise you can simply freeze.
Furnace walls get very hot, contact can cause burns.
Can't be allowed falling out of coals from the stove, it is fraught with fire.

Where can you apply?

Stoves were popular in the first half of the last century. They warmed the soldiers' dugouts, dugouts, heating cars.

Today, stoves still heat garden houses, garages, warehouses, greenhouses, that is, where there is no gas pipeline, and electrical appliances are ineffective, while burning a lot of electricity.

Types of homemade stoves

The material for the construction is cast iron or stainless steel. The furnace consists of a container, an ash pan, a branch pipe, a chimney, and a furnace door.

The types are distinguished:

pyrolysis ovens;
with a cooking platform at the top for cooking;
jacketed ovens for efficient heat dissipation. For homemade products, you can pick up an old cylinder, barrel, large vat, can. Furnaces can be cylindrical, rectangular;

Installation safety rules

Any home-made heating device is designed to heat the room, making it more comfortable, but along with this, such devices are far from safe, fraught with ignition and fire.

When installing the structure, it is very important to follow the safety rules:

Bake must be installed on a surface that is resistant to fire, otherwise the floor may burn out. To do this, it is good to lay a brick, tile on the floor.
Stove walls should not overheat too much; for this, in the manufacture they use special drywall, other non-combustible material.
Highly flammable materials do not put it next to the firebox, they can catch fire.
Take care about ventilation in the room where the potbelly stove will be located. Carbon monoxide should be released to the outside in a timely manner, and not accumulate inside the room.
Use in production only high quality, refractory material.

In the presence of panel, wood walls in the house install the oven at a distance of 1 meter from them.
Be sure to mount chimney, preferably from one section.
When passing a pipe through a wall install a brick thermal barrier. Do not use concrete for these purposes, it crumbles quickly.
For garage better fit potbelly stove on working off, so do not rush to throw out car disks from wheels.
Don't put the oven near flammable materials.
Pipe section it is above the roof that it is made of non-combustible material, so the stove will cool down much more slowly.
Think well ventilation system, there should be no burning in the room.
Lay out the floor and walls near a brick structure, or facing material, the stove is fire hazardous The same applies to the chimney, the distance to the walls and ceiling must be at least 1.2 meters.
Put for safety metal fence around the device.
Grate it is better to make it from cast iron grates in a set, so it will be easier to pull them out of the firebox.
Install all parts of the chimney only at the top of the structure, they must withstand high temperatures in excess of 300 degrees.
Treat seams after welding with a durable and high quality sealant.
Do not brush the pipe, metal objects, the pipe walls can leak quickly.
Mounting the chimney, make a rain canopy, rain moisture will not get inside the pipe.

For most people, the word "garage" is simply associated with a box for storing a car. However, there is a fairly large category of car owners for whom the garage is truly a "second home". They are ready to spend all their free time in it - fortunately, there will certainly always be work here. In addition, garages have rightly established a stable reputation as a kind of "men's club", where the uninitiated, especially women, are not recommended to enter.

But only winter is trying to make adjustments to an active garage life - it is extremely inconvenient to work in a frozen room and it is very uncomfortable to just talk with friends. However, inventive craftsmen always find a way out - they install home-made stoves, constructing them on their own or using the advice of comrades on how to make a potbelly stove in the garage.

We will also make our contribution to this noble man's cause. The publication will consider several ways how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands.

Wood stove stoves from scrap materials

The basic design of a simple stove burning on solid fuel is very straightforward. In fact, it is a thick-walled metal container, divided into two main compartments.

Firewood or other fuel is placed in the upper one, for which a loading door must be provided. The grate separates the firebox from the lower compartment, much smaller - the ash pan, which also often plays the role of a blower. Here it is also recommended to install an appropriate door through which the stove is regularly cleaned from ash. In addition, opening the door a certain width regulates the flow of air into the combustion chamber, and, consequently, the intensity of firewood burning. At the top combustion chamber welded in a branch pipe for the removal of combustion products into the chimney.

Such a scheme gives scope for the independent design of simple stoves, and a wide variety of materials or out-of-date objects and devices are used as blanks. There is probably no need to learn how to cook a potbelly stove in a garage, there is probably no need for real masters - perhaps it is better to just give a row interesting ideas, which can be taken as a basis and supplemented with your own modifications, based on the available capabilities and preferences.

1. One of the most simple options - potbelly stove from the old metal barrel.

The design shown in the figure has been simplified to the limit. The master manufacturer decided to abandon two separate doors, combining them into one common one. A metal frame is welded on top of the barrel, which allows laying a metal sheet on it, which becomes a kind of " hob"- on it you can, for example, warm water.

Potbelly stove from a barrel - the design is simple, but with a lot of disadvantages

The advantage of such a design, perhaps, is only one - the simplicity and speed of manufacture, available to almost everyone. There are many more disadvantages.

Firstly, the barrel itself is not the best option for a potbelly stove - the walls are thin, their heat capacity is low, and they will not last long - they will quickly burn out.
Secondly, it is rather difficult to regulate the intensity of combustion.
Thirdly, the design is bulky and takes up a lot of space. You can, of course, consider a vertical arrangement, but the main problem is the subtleties of the walls, thisall equal not will eliminate
And, fourthly, such a potbelly stove is very unsafe in terms of fire safety.

It is better to have such a stove not in the garage, but somewhere on the street for garbage disposal.

2. Something similar, with the same main disadvantages, but more compact, can be made from a standard 40 liter can.

The scope of work, including welding, is even smaller here. In fact, only the legs (3) and the chimney (2) are welded to the body (1). The door is already ready - it remains standard, only two rows of holes (4) are drilled in it for air access. Inside, a homemade grate made of a metal rod is laid, conventionally dividing the can into two compartments - and the mini-stove is ready.

3. Very wide possibilities in the manufacture of garage stoves-stoves are provided by the use of old gas cylinders... These vessels have thick sebaceous walls that are easy to weld and have a good heat capacity by themselves.

The main difficulty is to properly prepare the cylinder for further work, since even with the neck removed, vapors of an explosive concentration can remain in it. You can find advice to fill the bottle with water overnight, and then, after draining the liquid, start cutting it. However, as practice shows, this does not give a complete guarantee of the safety of work. In this light, the following approach seems optimal:

Dig a vertically placed cylinder in the ground so that it is securely fixed for cutting with a grinder.
Fill it with water to the very neck, let stand for 2–3 hours.
Draw a line marking the future around the circumference cut.
Start cutting along the marked line until a through hole appears. Water will begin to flow out. It is necessary to wait until its level drops to the level of the cut, and then carefully continue working with a grinder and remove the cover completely.
Now the water can be drained and further work can be continued - the cylinder will no longer present any danger.

There are a lot of options for stoves-stoves from cylinders.

- It is often made horizontally. The container capacity itself is, in fact, a finished combustion chamber. To divide it into two with this orientation is irrational, it is better to make it from sheet metal and weld a box-shaped one from below ash pan-blower with its own door.

In this case, the grate can be rows of holes drilled in the cylinder body:

If a real cast iron of the appropriate size was found, then you can do otherwise - cut a window in the wall of the cylinder, which will ensure a snug fit of this part:

Another option is a window for installing a conventional cast iron grate

The furnace door can be made independently using a fragment cut out under the firebox window, or you can weld on a finished part, which can be purchased at a hardware store.

The structure is installed on their welded pipes or corner legs at a height convenient for operation. At the rear, a branch pipe is cut in for connection to the chimney.

- In order to save garage space, the cylinder can also be placed vertically. In this case, it is divided into two chambers, brackets are welded inside, on which a home-made round grate is placed, made from a steel bar with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm. Two two rts are made - furnace and blower.

The upper cut-off part can be drowned out - in this case, a kind of hob will appear. Another option is to purchase cast iron cauldron required diameter, which is exactly suitable as a "plug" and turns into a container for heating water or even for preparing a variety of dishes.

Original solution - a well-fitted cauldron is used instead of the top cover

For the outlet of combustion products, a standard 90-degree outlet with a diameter of 100 or 110 mm is welded in from the back, and then the vertical part of the chimney is connected to it.

Another craftsman offers an original design. As a finished part for the stove, he used an air tank-receiver from the brake system of a truck.

The master did not install the usual doors. For the blower, a pipe is welded in, equipped with an adjustable damper that restricts the flow of air. There is also no loading hatch on the side wall of the stove - it uses the principle of top loading of solid fuel. The top cover is hinged, for convenience it is equipped with an arched handle.

The inner space of the cylinder into the firebox and the ash pan is separated by a homemade grate:

The structure itself is simple to manufacture, but during operation it requires caution when laying firewood. In addition, the process of cleaning such a potbelly stove from the accumulated ash will also not be entirely convenient.

Potbelly stoves of similar construction can be made from scraps of thick-walled pipes with a diameter of 300 - 500 mm.

4. Steel sheet - an excellent material, a potbelly stove can be made from it with your own hands, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet.

For example, we can give a drawing of an efficient solid fuel stove, for which you will need sheet metal with a thickness of at least 4 mm (the walls of a thinner one will simply burn out quickly).

All dimensions are indicated on the drawing presented to your attention, and it will not be difficult for any master to embed the parts necessary for work. The main "highlight" of this design is the presence of two partitions (1). They create a kind of labyrinth for the exit of combustion products, which do not fly away immediately into the chimney, but provide maximum heat transfer from the stove.

A metal plate (2) with rows of drilled holes with a diameter of 12-15 mm is used as a grate.

It is advisable to "dress" the potbelly stove in a metal casing, using sheet metal 2 mm thick for it. The plates (3) are cut to the dimensions of the side and rear walls and are attached to the stove body either on threaded posts or using 50 mm bushings (4).

Such an addition to the design of the stove will solve three problems at once:

The likelihood of accidental burns from the hot walls of the stove will decrease.
The impact of hard infrared radiation from it, which is far from always pleasant and necessary, will decrease.
The resulting gap of 50 mm between the walls of the stove and the screens will create a powerful convection flow of heated air, due to which a fast and uniform heating of the garage room will occur.

These are far from all possible options for solid fuel garage stoves. and detailed technology of their manufacture can be found on other pages of our portal dedicated to this issue.

Video: homemade garage stove made of sheet metal

Now, it probably makes sense to get acquainted with the design of the stove, which uses such common in garages, practically "waste" material, like used motor oil.

Find out and also learn a step-by-step process that is understandable even for beginners, from our new article.

How to make a potbelly stove for mining

Indeed, it is not always convenient to have a supply of firewood in the garage for a stove-stove. But working off is available almost constantly or it is not difficult to find it. This becomes especially important in large garage cooperative partnerships, where, often, special containers are installed for draining old oil, or in auto repair shops. So why not take the opportunity to use virtually free fuel for heating?

The design of such stoves and their layout can also be very diverse - from compact stoves designed for a small room to large and bulky devices with high heat transfer, capable of heating already large areas.

Nevertheless, the principle of operation and basic structural elements are similar for all of them. They consist of two containers. The lower one is intended for filling with used oil - there it is superficially ignited and brought to a boil. Oil vapor go up through a pipe with perforation for oxygen access. Here, the process of afterburning of rising vapors begins, and their final oxidation and combustion takes place in the upper chamber, which is already connected to the chimney system.

If you look at a photograph of a working one, then the temperature distribution in this heating device is very clearly visible from the intensity of the infrared radiation spots. The lower container with oil does not heat up very much: a light spot is only a visible area of \u200b\u200ban open flame on the surface of the burning oil. The main afterburning begins in the upper third of the vertical perforated pipe, and the temperature reaches peak values \u200b\u200bin the upper chamber - even its thick-walled body literally gets red-hot. It is this part of the stove that gives the maximum heat exchange with the air in the room.

You need to know the principle of operation of such a stove. This will help to correctly determine the materials necessary for its manufacture - it is obvious that the parts of the vertical pipe and the upper chamber should be the most heat-resistant.

Below are the drawings of a do-it-yourself potbelly stove, working according to this scheme. They contain almost all dimensions, but nevertheless, for the manufacture of such a heater, a number of explanations are required, having considered this process in more detail.

So, the work on the manufacture of such a stove begins with the selection of materials. First of all, it is necessary to have two lengths of pipe for the bodies of the lower and upper chambers (pos. 2 and 8). The drawing indicates the diameter of 352 mm and 344 mm, but such a standard simply does not exist. It is easier to change the data a little and apply 355.6 x 6 or 325 x 6 mm pipe trims.

The thickness of the steel sheets used for the manufacture of other parts is 4 mm, with the exception of the top cover (pos. 10) and the baffle (pos. 9), which require 6 mm metal.

For the vertical chamber, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a wall thickness of at least 4 - 5 mm is used. The same pipe is required for the chimney pipe.

The process can be started by making the lower chamber. To do this, a circularly cut bottom (item 1) is welded to the cutting of 355 mm pipe with a height of 115 mm (item 2). All seams in the construction of the stove must be absolutely tight.

The top of this container must be removable. This means that it is necessary to have a cylinder (pos. 3) that would fit tightly, almost without a gap, on the lower one. Pick it up by standard sizes pipes - it will not work, which means you have to make it yourself. A 60 mm wide metal strip is cut, which, by heating with a gas burner and using clamps, is bent around the body of the lower container, and then welded with a vertical seam.

Now, according to the resulting ring, you can accurately measure and cut the cover for it (pos. 4). Two holes are immediately cut on it - the central Ø 100 mm (item 4.1) for welding a vertical perforated pipe, and offset to the edge, Ø 60 mm - it will be used for refueling, igniting and adjusting the supply of primary air for oil combustion. A sliding cover is being prepared (pos. 4.3), which will be fixed in the hole (pos. 4.4) with a rivet or bolt (pos. 4.5).

Then the finished cover is welded to the ring.

A piece of pipe 100 × 5 mm with a length of 360 mm is marked for drilling holes in it. The top row should be 55 mm from the edge, the bottom 20 mm. It is necessary to evenly place 6 rows of 8 holes in each, so that they are staggered. Hole diameter - 9 mm. Both ends of the pipe are immediately chamfered for further welding during assembly.

The next step is to mount the upper chamber. To begin with, prepare two lids that have the same dimensions, but differ in metal thickness - the lower (pos. 7) - 4 mm, and the upper (pos. 10) - 6 mm. In each of them, a hole of Ø 100 mm is cut out - so, as shown in the drawing. The diameter of these covers, of course, must exactly match the diameter of the thick-walled pipe used, from which a cylinder with a height of 100 mm is cut (pos. 8).

It is immediately necessary to prepare a jumper (pos. 9), which will serve for a more complete combustion of rising vapors, preventing their rapid release into the chimney, thereby creating an additional afterburner.

Assembly begins by welding the upper, thicker cap to the cylinder.

After the airtight seam is made, a jumper is installed with its maximum displacement to the flue hole, and welded from three sides.

Now you can weld on the bottom cover. Its hole should be located strictly diametrically to the top.

Very accurately checking the square, achieving perpendicularity in all planes, install, grab, and then scald the perforated pipe to the bottom cover.

Then you can weld the flue pipe (pos. 11) to the corresponding hole in the top cover.

Welded flue pipe

From the opposite end of the perforated pipe, also, observing perpendicularity, the cover of the lower fuel tank is welded.

This O-ring is then welded to the bottom of the "pot".

... and its fixation to the walls of the "pan"

In fact, it remains only to weld the legs (pos. 6) and the stove can be considered ready. For greater stability of the stove, you can weld a stand (in the diagram - III), which will add rigidity to the structure.

You can, if desired, after stripping, cover it with heat-resistant paint and safely operate.

It can be refilled through the neck of the lower container, but this can be done safely only when the previously filled oil has completely burned out. To avoid such inconveniences during operation, it is recommended to supplement such a potbelly stove during testing with one more "option" - a device for monitoring the oil level in the combustion chamber and safe refueling during operation.

To do this, you will have to make another open container, about the same height as the lower "pan". The shape of this vessel does not really matter. Both of these containers will be located on a common stand of two parallel metal corners.

Both containers are welded to the guides - corners ...

In the bottom of both containers, holes of the same diameter are cut, which are connected by a curved tube.

... and connected by a tube

So, we got two communicating vessels. According to the laws of physics, the liquid level in both is always the same. Thus, the owner of the stove always sees the level of oil development remaining in the combustion chamber, and can replenish the fuel supply without any problems by pouring it into an open container.

True, in order to ensure greater safety, it is better to provide also a protective screen that will cover the open vessel from the direct heat radiation of the combustion chamber.

Now we can say with complete confidence that we are ready. It remains only to install it in place, connect it to the chimney, refuel and carry out a test ignition.

For lighting, liquid for fireplaces (stoves) is usually used, about 100 ml is poured over the oil into the filler neck. A lit wick is lowered there with a rag or paper soaked in the same liquid. Surface combustion should begin, which in a few minutes will lead to oil boiling, vapor formation and the transition of the entire potbelly stove to its "normal" mode of operation - this is usually accompanied by a characteristic hum.

In the model under consideration, ready-made parts were used - cuttings of thick-walled pipes. If it was not possible to find them, then quite the same stove can be made of steel sheet, with box-shaped chambers for refueling and afterburning, simply observing certain proportions of their volume in relation to the parallelepiped. The efficiency of the stove will not suffer from this. The thickness of the material used is the same, 4 and 6 mm.

Video: mining stove with box-type chambers

Prices for popular models of welding machines

Welders

And what about those garage owners who already have a conventional stove stove running on solid fuel, but are interested in the possibility of using oil processing as fuel? It's okay - and there is an acceptable way out for them. You can make a special "attachment" that will make the stove universal.

Such a "attachment" will be able to turn an ordinary potbelly stove into one that runs on waste oil

In fact, this is the lower tank of the stove for mining, also with a perforated pipe, but only bent at an angle of 90 degrees (by welding a standard bend).

She is in a different angle

But instead of the final afterburner chamber, an ordinary wood stove is used, where this curved pipe is connected using an adaptive device. For example, in an ordinary potbelly stove, you can make the firebox door removable and replaceable. One, usual, will be installed using firewood, and the other, having the appropriate pipe insertion hole -at the use of a "prefix" during testing.

In this case, a round plug with a hole for the pipe entry is used as an "adapter". The standard firebox door is simply tilted to the side

Another option is to weld the pipe from the side, into the wall of the stove - then the stove will generally turn out to be universal. You just have to provide a damper so that when using firewood and the flame does not spread, and the ash from the firebox does not fall into the perforated pipe and the container with oil.

Advantages and disadvantages of bourgeois for mining

So that the operation of a potbelly stove during mining does not deliver special xlots, you need to know its features, advantages and disadvantages, which must be taken into account when using it.

The advantages include the following qualities:

The stove is unpretentious, does not require intervention in its work - the main thing is to correctly adjust the air gap on the filler neck (usually it is 10 - 15 mm). It has good heat dissipation, is able to quickly heat up an enclosed space.
With proper operation, such a potbelly stove does not smoke, no burning is emitted from the chimney.
The furnace to a certain extent can be considered fire-safe in the sense that the fuel (mining) itself never burns under normal conditions, and only the afterburning of the vapors emitted by it occurs in the chamber.

However, this scheme has many disadvantages:

It has already been mentioned about the noise of the stove. In addition, you cannot get rid of the characteristic odor. However, for garage conditions this should not have of great importance... Sometimes masters find another solution to a similar problem. For example, an additional air heat exchanger is installed on the upper chamber, through which air is driven by a fan to heat the adjacent room.

Both the combustion chamber (perforated pipe) and the chimney quickly become overgrown with deposits of combustion products and require frequent preventive cleaning.
Burning oil in the lower chamber always leaves a coked layer that is quite difficult to clean.

Video - Stove on working off

During the operation of the stove, a number of mandatory rules should be observed:

The use of oil processing with flammable impurities, for example, gasoline, is not allowed. The working off must be filtered so that it does not contain solid suspensions.
Working with water is also dangerous - this can lead to boiling of the liquid and splashing of the oil with possible ignition. The collection of waste for further use in the form of fuel should be carried out in conditions excluding the ingress of water.
In no case should such a stove be placed in a strong draft - this can cause the flame to spread to surrounding objects. There should never be any flammable substances or materials around the stove. Reliable thermal insulation of the walls of the room must be provided.
The room must necessarily have reliable ventilation, since the operation of the stove is associated with the intensive absorption of oxygen from the air and the release of carbon monoxide hazardous to health and life.
It is strictly forbidden to use any other flammable liquids as fuel - this may result in an explosion in the upper chamber or chimney.
You should never leave such a potbelly stove unattended. It is strictly forbidden to go to bed in a room with a working stove. Before leaving, make sure that the oil has completely burned out, the process of afterburning its vapors has ended.
It is forbidden to water the stove with water to cool it down, use water to extinguish the fire - this will only aggravate the dangerous situation.
the stove should not have horizontal sections. An inclined section is allowed to change direction at an angle of 45 degrees. The minimum chimney length should be 4 m, and the recommended length is 5 to 7 m.
The recommended filling level for the initial filling of the stove is up to ⅔ of the volume of the lower container.
When using such a stove in the garage, there must be a dry powder fire extinguisher or a box of sand nearby.

So, probably everyone who has stable skills and plumbing work can make a potbelly stove in a garage. It is enough to show imagination or use the drawings of ready-made developments - and everything should work out. The main thing, both in the manufacture and in the operation of such stoves, is the constant observance of elementary safety measures so that the heating device does not become the cause of great trouble.

Since homemade wood stoves remain the simplest means of heating garages and summer cottages, in this article we will consider making a potbelly stove with our own hands. With the help of our instructions and drawings, you can make a heater from available materials - a gas cylinder, steel pipe and even rims.

Making a furnace from a cylinder

From old propane cylinders with a volume of 50 liters, home craftsmen got the hang of making several varieties of wood-fired stoves:

simple vertical stove;
long-term combustion unit Bubafon, where fuel is burned from top to bottom;
horizontal furnaces - conventional and with a secondary pyrolysis chamber.

Note. From a former gas tank, installed in a vertical position, it is possible to weld a dropper furnace using oil working and diesel fuel. How to do this correctly is described in.

It makes no sense to disassemble the simplest designs of country and garage stoves - there are enough such drawings on the Internet. We propose to consider more efficient, and therefore economical models with modifications that increase the heat transfer and efficiency of iron furnaces.

Instructions for disassembling a gas container

Flammable propane-butane mixture, filled in gas cylinders, heavier than air by weight. To safely cut the tank for the manufacture of a stove-stove, the remaining mixture must be displaced with water. The correct disassembly technology looks like this:

When the reservoir is partially empty, continue working and separate the lid. Whatever design of the furnace - homemade you choose, the cylinder will have to be cut, so the procedure for filling with water is required.

Vertical model with air chamber

The device of a potbelly stove - a housekeeper on wood is shown in the diagram below. The modernization consists in adding a separate chamber with a heat exchanger in the form of steel fins, blown with air through 2 nozzles in the upper part of the heater. Increased efficiency is achieved by forced air supply by a fan, which allows you to quickly warm up the room.

An important point. An additional chamber isolated from the firebox can also serve as a water circuit connected to registers or heating radiators. One caveat: this inexpensive version of the boiler for a summer cottage or garage must necessarily work with forced circulation of the coolant from the pump.

For manufacturing, you will need additional materials from the list:

sheet metal 3 mm thick for the doors and partition of the chamber;
trimming thick iron for the heat exchanger;
reinforcement Ø16-20 mm on grates;
pieces of pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm for air connection and Ø100 mm for a chimney;
asbestos cord, ready-made handles.

Drawing of a heating stove of a vertical structure

If a propane cylinder is not available, make a potbelly stove from a large pipe with a diameter of 300-500 mm with a wall thickness of up to 5 mm. The assembly technology is the same in both cases:

Note. When making a furnace from a Ø300-500 mm pipe, it will be necessary to install an ash pan bottom (steel 2 mm), and the air chamber will turn out to be cylindrical.

To prevent the potbelly stove from smoking into the room, install a chimney with a height of at least 4 m (counting from the grate). If you plan to burn sawdust, then the distance between the grate bars should be minimized.

Due to its small dimensions and forced supply of heated air, the stove is convenient to use for a variety of purposes - to heat a garage, a summer cottage or a greenhouse. The technology for assembling such a heater with your own hands is demonstrated in the video:

Horizontal two-chamber stove

In this case, the improvement of the design consists in the installation of an additional chamber with partitions for the afterburning of pyrolysis gases released in the firebox during slow smoldering of wood. The emphasis is on long burning, so the useful volume of the firebox is not taken away by the ash pan - it is taken out.

To increase the efficiency and heat transfer of the potbelly stove, the body is equipped with flat heat exchange fins on the outside, which is reflected in the drawing. By the principle of operation, the heater is similar to the Buleryan type stoves: before going outside, the flue gases go around 2 partitions in the secondary chamber, giving off heat to the iron walls.

In addition to two tall 50-liter cylinders or a steel pipe with a diameter of up to 500 mm, for manufacturing you will need:

metal 3 mm for ash pan and doors;
steel strips 2 mm per rib;
any suitable rolled metal for legs;
a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a length of 15 cm to the chimney;
reinforcement for strengthening the lattice;
asbestos cord for sealing doors.

Cutting and docking of propane vessels, installation of door and ash pan frame

The manufacture of the furnace begins traditionally - with disassembling the cylinders. In one, the bottom part is cut off, and in the second, an opening is made for the doors and slot-like holes in the side wall - the future grates. In order for the combustion products to pass into the secondary chamber, a round hole with a diameter of about 10 cm is made on the other side.Further work procedure is as follows:

To from high temperature the grate rods did not bend, weld the reinforcement from the reinforcement of the periodic profile from below.
Make a frame at the end and put the door, sealing it with asbestos.
Weld the ash chamber with the door and install the legs.
Cut the walls on the second cylinder so as to fit it with the horizontal firebox at an angle of 90 °. Fasten the inside by welding 2 partitions according to the drawing.
Connect the secondary chamber to the firebox by carefully welding the butt joint.
Install the flue pipe and external heat exchanger fins.

Council. The partitions in the vertical chamber are best made from semicircular pieces cut from the sides of the second tank. This will increase the extraction of heat from the flue gases.

The resulting potbelly stove for a summer residence is quite capable of providing heating for various utility rooms, including a steam room in a bathhouse. It is not difficult to adapt it for cooking by making a flat top of the firebox hob made of metal 4-5 mm.

Heater from car rims

The advantage of rims is a decent metal thickness. If you make a potbelly stove from them, it will not burn out for a long time, although you cannot call such a product beautiful. Let's give some recommendations for manufacturing:

If the farm has only two wheel rim, you can collect combined option potbelly stoves by inserting between them a section of steel pipe of a suitable diameter. How such a stove is made, see the video:

Classic steel stove

We suggest welding from iron sheets 3-4 mm thick wood stoveshown in the photo. Outwardly, it looks like a classic rectangular stove with low efficiency (up to 40%), but inside the structure has undergone modernization. To make it more economical, two smoke teeth are arranged above the combustion chamber, like in brick fireplaces.

The partitions inside the body, shown in the drawing, overlap the section of the firebox in the horizontal plane and leave a small passage 10 cm wide for the combustion products.The flow of heated gases through two smoke turns gives an increase in heat transfer by 5-10%, which is much better than factory cast iron stoves.

Council. The dimensions of the heating unit indicated in the drawing are not an axiom, you can change them at your discretion. The main thing is to maintain the size (height) of the gas ducts. We do not list the required materials, since their list is obvious - sheet metal, pipe cuttings for the chimney, and rolled metal for grates and legs.

The manufacturing procedure is as follows:

Weld the stove body, starting with the hearth sheet. The primary assembly of parts is carried out with tacks.
Cut and install 2 partitions. For the lower one, located above the flame, it is worth taking thicker iron - 5-6 mm.
Make a grate and put it on supports from the corners welded from the inside to the side walls of the firebox.
Attach the cover and the chimney pipe, mount simple doors with locks.
Finish weld all seams.

If you expect to heat a potbelly stove with fine coal fractions or sawdust, make a grate from steel corners, unfolded with a profile downward. Make the distance between them minimum - 5 mm.

Conclusion

Design engineer with over 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dahl with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

Related entries:

Potbelly stove is a simple in its design, but very effective stove that can be used for heating country houses, garages, various buildings under construction and other places. It is an excellent temporary alternative to a complete heating system. To make a potbelly stove, you can use various materials and improvised means.

The work on the self-production of a stove begins with the choice of the type of construction. The stove can have a round and rectangular cross-section. Even an old can for water, milk and other liquids is suitable for assembling such a unit.

No expensive materials and hard-to-find tools are required. All you need can be found in the shed or purchased from the hardware store.

Tools and materials for assembling a potbelly stove

The can.
Metal bar with a diameter of 0.6 mm.
Hammer.
Chisel.
Smoke exhaust pipe.
File.

To assemble some models of potbelly stove, you will need a welding machine, but if you really want to, everything can be done without the use of welding. The advantage of using a welding machine is that it can provide higher reliability and rigidity of the structure. Recommendations for any specific dimensions are not given, since in the case of homemade potbelly stoves, everything is selected individually. When choosing the size of additional units, be guided by the dimensions of the main tank.

First of all, you need to prepare a blower... Take your can and make a hole in it. It should be arranged just below the neckline. The cut hole should be shaped like a regular rectangle. To do this, take a file and carefully sand the edges of the resulting connector.

The next hole must be prepared in the bottom of the can.... It should be of such a diameter that in the future the pipe for the removal of combustion products will enter it with sufficiently great efforts. Determining the appropriate size is extremely simple. Prepare the markings in the place of the chimney device. Mark a hole about 15-20 mm smaller than the chimney diameter. Next, you will need to arm yourself with a chisel and an ordinary hammer. These simple tools you can knock out the hole you want. In the end, all that remains is to align it with a file.

Take the flue pipe and try to drive it into the prepared connector... If the chimney does not go through, you will have to work with the file for some more time. However, you don't need to be too zealous either. The chimney, as already noted, must enter the connector with a sufficiently large effort.

Take a metal rod with a diameter of 0.6 mm and try to bend it with a snake. In the future, you will use this snake as a grate... The prepared grill must be bent so that it can be properly positioned in the neck. In the end, all that remains is to align the grate in the container, and the homemade stove will be ready.

Experts recommend installing such stoves on special stands. So it is more reliable and safe.In addition, the design of a homemade stove can be improved by installing a damper on the blower. It will allow you to adjust the intensity of traction, fuel consumption and heating level.

Thus, an elementary potbelly stove can be collected even from an old can. No costly special devices is not required for such work. In the end, all that remains is to place the stove in a suitable place and connect the chimney. A homemade stove will provide high-quality room heating until you decide to install a more functional and efficient system.

In this case, you cannot do without a welding machine. The function of the base of the structure will be performed by a segment of an ordinary metal pipe. Even fit old barrel... The assembly will be carried out according to the scheme you are already familiar with. Make a grate out of the bars and fasten it to the body. The connection is made by welding ... This potbelly stove will have 2 dampers at once: a blower and a firebox. The model can be successfully used both for heating various rooms and for preparing a variety of food.

Potbelly stoves are appreciated precisely because they are able to warm up the room in the shortest possible time. But at the same time, there is also the main disadvantage of such stoves is that after stopping combustion, they cool down as quickly as they heat up... Metal practically does not accumulate heat.

To eliminate the above disadvantage, it is enough to impose a homemade potbelly stove with refractory bricks. It accumulates heat well and continues to give it to the surrounding space for a long time after the stove is finished. However, in order for the room to warm up, the stove will have to be heated longer than without such a brick fence. But this shortcoming can be easily eliminated. You just need to make a few ventilation holes in the brick screen. Such systems are often used in baths.

The brick screen is laid out at some distance from the walls of the unit. This is a very important point. When choosing a suitable distance, one should be guided by the area of \u200b\u200bthe heated room and the dimensions of the oven itself.

A potbelly stove, fenced with a brick screen, will use fuel as efficiently as possible and heat the room with high quality for a very long time.

The considered brick screen, as already noted, relieves the furnace of its main drawback, which is extremely rapid cooling. You turn off the stove, and it will continue to produce heat. However, the device of such a screen must be carried out taking into account a number of important rules and requirements.

Usually, the laying is done at a distance of about 15 cm from the body of the heating unit. Ventilation holes are created below and above the brick screen, thanks to which air can circulate inside the structure. As a result, efficient heating will be organized with the most rational fuel consumption. Warm air will be able to go into the heated room, and cold air entering its place will cool the stove body, protecting its walls from excessive heating and burning out.

In some situations, the laying is done without a gap between the stove body and the screen, or the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern. This is a completely wrong approach, it is better not to consider it at all. If there is no gap, the heating efficiency will decrease markedly. Excess heat will simply evaporate into the chimney. The disadvantage of "checkerboard" masonry is that in such conditions the air has no opportunity for normal circulation.

The total area of \u200b\u200bthe screen is much smaller than in the case of solid masonry, which is why the oven will cool down very quickly. The total heat loss will be about 50%. The room, of course, will warm up quickly, but it will also cool down just as quickly. And in this case, is there any point in arranging such a screen at all?

If you are very limited in money, you can not buy a new brick, but make a screen from broken and used products. This is not a fundamental point. But if the potbelly stove will be used as a permanent source of heat, it is better to allocate money and do everything in good faith.

Improved potbelly stove model

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove - professionally drawn up scheme

If you wish, you can slightly improve the design of the stove and get a more efficient and effective heating unit. To do this, you just need to prepare a certain amount of sheet metal or several boxes of the same material. As a result, you get a rectangular stove with a more aesthetic appearance.

The structure should include smoke flows. They will significantly reduce the cost of heating materials. It is also recommended to install control dampers... Thanks to them, you can change traction and control the fuel consumption as much as possible.

The assembly of the structure is performed in the same order as in the previous instructions. The only differences are in the shape of the case. For the rest, the structure is assembled, equipped and used in a similar manner.

Thus, this unit received its historical name absolutely undeservedly. With proper assembly, no excessive fuel consumption is noted. Such a simple, but very effective stove began to be called "potbelly stove" simply because of an erroneous interpretation. However, in order for the unit to fully realize its potential, you need to choose the right place for its installation and adhere to certain recommendations during operation.

Recommendations for the placement and use of a homemade stove

The installation and use of the oven must be carried out in accordance with established and proven technology by many users. If the potbelly stove will be installed in a wooden house, the minimum allowable distance between it and the nearest walls will be 100 cm. Safety precautions require the obligatory arrangement of a chimney. It is impossible to build up sections, the pipe must be solid and solid.

In certain situations, it is impossible to solve the problem of smoke removal without building up pipes. Craftsmen found a completely safe and effective solution to this problem. The main thing is that the sections are mated as tightly as possible. The lower part is introduced into the upper section, and nothing else.

If the pipe goes outside through the wall, the place of contact of objects must be equipped with a thermal barrier. Usually brick is used for its arrangement. The use of concrete should be avoided as it loses its strength during temperature extremes.

In the event that the pipe will go outside through the wall, the place of contact of objects must be equipped with a thermal barrier

If desired, the potbelly stove can be further refined with the help of various accessories, for example, devices for convenient storage fuel. In accordance with safety regulations, the fuel must also be stored away from the furnace body.This distance must be at least 1 m.

A correctly assembled potbelly stove will be able to heat a room in just 15-20 minutes. If desired, it can be decorated and turned into a wonderful addition to the interior of the room, making it a full-fledged constant source of heat. Follow the recommendations received and everything will work out.

Happy work!

Video - Diy potbelly stove

Winter in Russia is more than winter. It's not a secret for anyone that at this time of the year it is uncomfortable to be outside a room with heating, but what if there is such a need? For example, you need to visit a garage and spend some time there. And the love of a strong half of humanity for gatherings with friends in the company of their iron horse is known to everyone.

Of course, gatherings with even a small "minus" outside rarely bring joy if the garage is not heated around the clock. There is a way out if you can install a homemade stove-stove in the garage.

Features: pros and cons

The advantages of a homemade stove made from a barrel usually include:

rapid heating with a minimum of fuel consumption;
simplicity and availability;
the opportunity to make it with your own hands from the most different materials, even assistants;
unpretentiousness in the choice of fuel (firewood, mining, diesel fuel, coal, peat, etc.);
sometimes, for better heating and heat transfer, a kind of "labyrinth" of metal sheets is installed on the furnace.

The statement that the disadvantages of a stove made from a barrel are probably more than advantages will be quite true:

large heat losses and, as a result, significant fuel consumption during long-term use;
if a potbelly stove is made from an ordinary barrel, then you must be prepared for the fact that it will last relatively shortly due to the insignificant wall thickness - they will quickly burn out;
poor ability to adjust the temperature;
if the potbelly stove is made in a horizontal version, it will take up a rather large space in the limited space of the box;
the vertical orientation of the stove will give a gain in the use of space, but the walls will burn out faster than that of a horizontally placed potbelly stove;
due to the burning out of the walls, the furnace can be fire hazardous and will require more attention when heating;
such a stove needs a high chimney with a height of more than 4 m, which will have to be cleaned regularly.

Most of these shortcomings can be eliminated by making the body of a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder. It has thick, heat-absorbing steel walls that weld well.

Preparing an old cylinder for welding is very important due to the likely presence of explosive gas residues inside, even if the neck is removed.

There are several preparation options: you can simply fill the cylinder with water and leave it for a long time, or add alkaline substances to the water to neutralize the gas. However, this method is considered the most reliable:

the cylinder in an upright position must be reliably dug in to cut a hole with a grinder;
completely fill it with water, wait a few hours;
outline the cutting line;
cut with a grinder until a through hole appears - water begins to flow out;
complete the cut and drain the water - the risk of fire is guaranteed to be eliminated.

Principle of operation

Let's take a closer look at the scheme of work of a homemade stove:

combustion air is supplied to the furnace through the blower;
in the process of combustion, heat is released, which heats the bricks and walls of the furnace;
smoke, soot and combustion products are drawn out through the chimney;
combustion regulation with obtaining the necessary heat transfer is carried out by increasing / decreasing the open gap of the blower door;
potbelly stove is heated using different kinds both liquid and solid fuels (firewood, mining, diesel fuel, coal, peat).

Potbelly stove on working off

The potbelly stove, which is fueled not by wood, but by waste oil, has its own characteristics. It can be both a small stove for an ordinary garage, and a device designed to heat large areas. In any case, all models work according to the same principle and have similar designs and operating principles.

The potbelly stove has 2 parts. Used oil is charged in the lower part, where it is ignited and brought to a boil.
The vapors are drawn through a perforated pipe for oxygen access, where their initial afterburning takes place.
The vapors are completely oxidized and burned in the upper part connected to the chimney.
The temperature in the lower tank is relatively low, the upper chamber heats up to the maximum, heating the room. Its walls can even glow from the heat. Accordingly, this affects the choice of material for the manufacture of cameras.

A schematic drawing of a potbelly stove for mining with conventional dimensions and proportions.

Consider the merits of the burzhuykas for mining.

Unpretentiousness and "independence". It is not necessary to constantly add firewood or perform any actions, the main requirement is the correct adjustment of the filler neck gap (10-15 mm).
Effective heat dissipation.
No soot from the chimney, the stove does not smoke.
Relative fire safety, since fuel waste is hardly flammable, and only oil vapors burn.

Disadvantages:

noisiness;
a characteristic odor (sometimes they get rid of it by installing a water circuit or air heat exchanger supercharged by a fan that directs part of the air from the chimney to another room for heating);
the combustion chamber (connecting pipe with perforation) and the chimney have to be cleaned quite often;
the coke layer of burnt oil in the lower chamber is also quite problematic to remove.

When using a stove-stove with waste fuel, you must adhere to the mandatory rules.

The use of oil processing with gasoline or with other combustible impurities is not allowed.
Filtration of working off from solid particles is obligatory.
Do not allow water to enter the mining.
Strong drafts are not allowed.
Compliance with all fire safety rules when installing the stove in the room.
Compulsory availability of reliable ventilation.

It is strictly forbidden to leave the stove unattended, to sleep when the stove is working.
Do not use water for extinguishing!
Horizontal chimney exhaust sections are prohibited. The admissible angle of inclination of the chimney is 45 °.
The chimney should be between 4 and 7 m long.
It is recommended to pour the mining into the furnace at a height less than? the volume of the lower chamber.
It is necessary to have a dry powder fire extinguisher and / or sand in the immediate vicinity of such a furnace.

DIY making

Drawings and dimensions

The potbelly stove will give out the maximum efficiency, subject to compliance with the calculations.

Consider the design of the chimney.

The vertical part (up to 2 m) is covered with non-combustible thermal insulation.
The pipe is inclined or parallel to the floor (2.5-4.5 m), the distance from the ceiling in the absence of heat-resistant protection is 1.5 m, from the floor - 2.2 m;
The diameter of the chimney must be calculated with great accuracy so that its speed of operation is less than the speed of fuel combustion, and it would not throw out all the heated air together with the combustion products outward immediately, but let it heat the walls, which is the main feature of this type of stove. The calculated permeability of the pipe should be 2.7 times the volume of the furnace. That is, with a firebox with a volume of 40 liters, the chimney should have a diameter of 106 mm.
If there are grates in the stove, the height of the firebox is calculated from the top of the grate.
Complete combustion of the fuel can be ensured by creating a high temperature, which can be achieved by using a metal or brick three-sided screen around the stove. Install it with a gap of about 70 mm from it. Reflection of heat also has a fire-fighting function.

Litter or non-combustible surface for the oven is strictly required, because:
- heat radiation from the oven radiates in all directions, including downward;
- the floor can become very hot and cause a fire.

Sheet metal is used as a bedding, the area is larger than the vertical projection of the stove on the floor by 350-400 mm (preferably 700 mm). You can use sheets made of other non-combustible materials with a thickness of more than 1 cm.

Chimneys are installed in different premises differently.

Part of the pipe is led out through the wall of the garage, this is the most common type.
The chimney is completely left inside the garage box and exits through the roof. Thus, the garage is heated better, but the installation process itself is much more laborious.

Required materials and tools

For self-production of a potbelly stove in the garage, you will need the following materials and tools:

sheet metal for the manufacture of an ash pan and a hob, if the stove is horizontal;
metal for the chimney pipe (preferably with two elbows);
materials for fixing grates and supports;
oven doors;

cast iron discs;
welding machine;
grinder;
welding wire / electrodes;

hammer;
tape measure / centimeter tape;
chisel;
pliers;
drill;
metal cleaning brush;
chalk pencil.

Let's consider the manufacturing process in stages.

As already mentioned, the oven can be manufactured horizontally and vertically.
The dimensions of the stove are selected based on the dimensions of the garage box, taking into account all fire safety measures.
The walls must be welded from sheet metal more than 4 mm thick.
The grate is welded to the inside of the firebox or placed on fasteners welded to the walls of the firebox from the inside (removable version). It can be purchased in retail chains or made by hand from a sheet of steel by drilling holes no more than 20 mm in diameter, or from thick wire.
The bottom is welded.

A convenient hole is cut out for the fuel supply and 5-7 cm lower for the ash pan.
Doors can be made from sheet steel yourself, or you can purchase a ready-made cast iron block.
The stove is installed in a selected place in the garage.
At this stage, the chimney is attached. The longer its section inside the room, the warmer it is in the garage, since it also heats the air around it.
At the last stage of the work, you need to put the stove on its legs. They are made from pieces of a profile, connected by welding or screwed to the body. You can also use a metal box without a front wall (used as a woodshed), bricks or forged elements can also be materials for the base.

Where to place?

Compliance with fire safety rules for garage use and operation of the stove is vital. Here we are talking about the safety of the car, and about the preservation of the life of the person himself. The location of the stove is one of the important tasks. Most often, the corner of the garage box formed by two walls is chosen, which is located opposite the gate. Direct contact between the stove and the car is strictly prohibited.

The distance must necessarily exceed one and a half meters. Similar conditions must be observed for the distance from flammable substances and objects.

The surface of the walls near the stove must be covered with refractory material... They can be additionally covered with bricks. If the garage is wooden, then the distance from the surface of the stove to the nearest wall should exceed 1 m.

If a potbelly stove is used for heating or cooking, it is very important to follow the rules of its operation. Their implementation, in addition to fire safety, will help to increase its service life.

Before the first kindling of the stove, it is imperative to check and make sure that all connections and assemblies are tight, immediately correct all imperfections in order to avoid the penetration of combustion products and carbon monoxide to the garage.
For very specific reasons, the chimney must be brought out. The part of it inside the garage space must be sealed.
It is strictly forbidden to discharge the chimney into the ventilation system. Even if the stove is installed in a basement, it must have a separate chimney.
Passages of the wall or ceiling of the chimney must be insulated with refractory non-fire-hazardous materials.

A sand box and a fire extinguisher must be in the garage, in accordance with fire safety rules.
A stove-stove is also used as a stove and for boiling water. To do this, a hob with burners (usually made of a cast-iron stove) or a tank for heating water is installed on it.
The stove-stove heats up quickly, but also cools down quickly. This disadvantage can be partially compensated for by a brick screen that accumulates heat and returns it to the room as it cools after the potbelly stove goes out.

Direct contact between the screen and the stove is prohibited. The gap between them is left at least 10 cm.

Typically a brick screen is heavy, so it will most likely need its own foundation. Consider the stages of its manufacture.
1. Dig a hole about 50 cm deep.
2. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand (average consumption of sand 3-4 buckets), tamped.
3. The next layer is 10-15 cm of crushed stone, which is also tamped.
4. The laid layers are leveled, then poured with a layer of cement mortar.
5. A complete hardening of the cement layer is expected. The longer the curing time, the better (usually the period of time is more than a day or longer, this will give the foundation additional strength).
6. Then several layers of roofing material are laid.
7. The screen itself is laid out in half a brick, the initial two rows are made with continuous masonry on roofing material. In rows 3-4, it is necessary to make ventilation gaps, then again continue to lay the brick in a continuous layer.

The right ways cleaning a stove-stove basically boils down to removing dirt inside the chimney, which is relatively rare. Mostly they use a brush. It is quite possible to make it with your own hands from a cylinder-shaped brush, tying it to a rope.

It is best to use brushes with plastic or iron wire bristles. The diameter of the brush is selected in such a way that there is no significant resistance when passing through the chimney.

Cleaning is used in order to increase the flow of smoke through the pipe, to improve heat transfer. The sequence of the cleaning process:

plug the furnace hole with a rag;
make 2-3 careful movements with the brush so as not to break the tightness of the chimney (make stops if the brush moves freely);