Furnace prefix on working out drawing. Homemade wood burning stove and working off. Assembling an effective potbelly stove

When operating any mechanisms, technical oils are used. During their intended use, they are not burned and remain flammable. Instead of recycling, an alternative option for reusing them is a waste oil potbelly stove, which you can make with your own hands.

Let's try to figure out how a potbelly stove works and what materials are required for its manufacture. We will also tell you about popular models of homemade stoves and share the secrets of their successful operation.

The work of a potbelly stove is based on the phenomenon of pyrolysis. In such a furnace, where the fuel is oil processing, there are 2 main compartments: the tank and the combustion chamber, which are located at different levels. The first is intended for pouring mining and its combustion.

In another compartment, located above, the combustion products of the working off, mixed with air, are afterburned. At the first stage, the temperature is relatively moderate, and at the second stage it is much higher - up to 800⁰.

When making such a furnace, the main task is to make sure that air flows into both compartments. It enters the first chamber through an opening for loading liquid fuel. The hole is equipped with a special damper, through which the volume of air supply is regulated.

Despite the fact that the design of the stove is very simple, increased requirements are imposed on the chimney of the stove. For effective removal of combustion products, a straight pipe with a diameter of more than 10 cm and a length of more than 400 cm must be prepared. Bends and horizontal sections are highly undesirable. In addition to its direct purpose, the pipe also acts as a residual heat exchanger

Air access to the second tank is provided by holes with a diameter of about 9 mm. The efficiency of a correctly assembled potbelly stove reaches 90%. Visually different stoves can differ from each other both in shape and size, but the principle of operation is the same.

The power of the stove-stove is proportional to the volume of the lower tank. The more voluminous it is, the less often you will have to add mining. Sometimes this container is made very massive, containing about 30 liters of used oil.

Improvement of the simple design of the stove for testing made it possible to invent a unit for arranging a garage, in which it would be pleasant to wash your hands with hot water, or a small private bath:

Image gallery

Creating a stove-stove from a gas cylinder

Another variant of the design of the furnace for development is a self-made potbelly stove based on a 50-liter gas cylinder. In addition to this basic element, you need to prepare 2 steel pipes with a wall of about 4 mm and a diameter of 10 cm. One of them will remove the burning gases, and the second will act as a heat exchanger.

To this must be added a 4 mm steel sheet for the canopy over the heat exchanger and the baffle separating the evaporator and the combustion chamber. For the vapor chamber itself, you will need a brake disc from a car with such a diameter that it effortlessly enters the cylinder. A piece of 0.5-inch pipe is needed to transport oil to the combustion chamber.

An excellent potbelly stove is obtained from a used cylinder. Although there is no gas in it, it is better to play it safe - to hold the cylinder outside for a while with the valve open. Lather is applied around the outlet. When it stops bubbling, the valve is twisted, if it is removable, if not, the condensate is drained in another way

In addition, you should keep in stock an equilateral steel angle with a shelf of 50 mm and a length of more than 1 m, a 0.5 inch valve, clamps for sealing - 2 pcs., A hose, any cylinder equipped with a needle valve.

The work on creating a potbelly stove is performed in a certain order. First, the balloon is turned upside down and a small hole is drilled in it. A measure such as wetting the drill and the drilling area with oil will prevent sparking.

The valve is dismantled with a gas or adjustable wrench. After the vessel is freed from all residues, it can be cut, welded

The container is freed from gas condensate. Drain it carefully away from the housing, because its unpleasant smell persists for a long time. Then the workpiece is filled with water, after which it is drained again, thus removing the remaining gas. Since the mixture is explosive, there should be no source of open flame nearby.

Cut out in the body of the cylinder 2 rectangles of the same width, equal to 1/3 of the diameter of the workpiece. The height of the lower rectangle is 20 cm, the second, located 5 cm higher than the first, 40 cm. To divide the chambers, a circle with a diameter equal to the inner diameter of the vessel is cut out of the sheet.

A hole is made in its middle for a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm. This part will separate the combustion chamber from the heat exchanger.

A burner is made from a pipe 20 cm long and 10 cm in diameter. The lower part of it is perforated, making holes with a diameter of about 2 cm. The inside is cleaned from burrs, otherwise they will collect soot on themselves, which will significantly narrow the hole later.

A previously cut circle is put on the burner, placing it exactly in the middle, and welded. The structure is placed inside the stove and a weld is made around the circumference of the cylinder.

Weld the bottom and cover onto the car brake disc. This will be an evaporator pan or bowl. To supply fuel, an opening is left in the lid through which air will enter the stove. The opening is made quite wide, otherwise the thrust will decrease, and the oil will not get into the bowl.

Weld the pipe onto the top of the lid. A sleeve is made from a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm, which connects the bowl to the burner.

A fuel supply system is assembled, for which:

• make a receiving hole in the pallet;
• insert a 0.5-inch piece of water pipe into it at an angle of about 40⁰;
• weld the pipe to the furnace body;
• an emergency reserve valve is screwed to the pipe, the role of which is played by an ordinary water tap.

A heat exchanger is made from a pipe with a cross section of 10 cm. It is cut horizontally into the stove body, and a reflector is mounted at the end. Inflation is arranged by installing a duct fan at the end of the heat exchanger. The air, driven through the heat exchanger with its help, has a high speed.

In order to make the system more controllable, it is automated by connecting a thermal relay to a duct fan. This solution allows you to set the required temperature

An air swirler is placed inside the heat exchanger, consisting of triangular teeth connected by welding. A chimney is made from a pipe with a section of 10 cm.

It is welded into the hole in the upper part of the furnace body and led out through the wall to the roof of the building.

The section of the pipe passing through the enclosing structure is best placed in a fireproof glass, and a metal sheet must be attached at the entrance

Next, they are engaged in the manufacture of an oil tank. If there is a freon-free cylinder with a serviceable needle valve, then it is quite suitable for this purpose. The vessel and the stove-stove are connected by a hose connected to the valve. To fill the used oil, a hole is made in the tank body.

To provide air access to the burner and the evaporator bowl, a groove is selected in the door of the lower compartment. Thrust plates are attached to the opening of the upper chamber door, which ensures reliable sealing of the combustion chamber. For the same purpose, the door is additionally equipped with a lock.

Now, even if the stove body is deformed as a result of strong heating, the tightness of the combustion chamber will not be broken.

It remains to weld the legs from the corner pieces to the body and put the oven vertically. In addition to vertical stoves, and are made from a cylinder. Their structure is similar.

Potbelly stove plus water circuit

Any home can use an emergency heat source. An ordinary, but slightly modernized, potbelly stove can play its role. There are two ways to improve the furnace - to put a water jacket on the burner pipe or wrap its body with a coil of copper tubes.

The coil turns are placed at a distance of about 5 cm from the perforated potbelly casing and connected to the general heating system. A reflective screen is installed around the coil. For its manufacture, sheet aluminum, galvanized steel, tin are used.

The water jacket is a tank on the upper chamber of the stove. There should be 2 fittings in its body - one for supplying, and the other for removing water. In general, the design resembles a samovar. The volume of the water jacket depends on the length of the heating system and the way of circulation of the coolant.

In practice, the issue of the device of the water circuit is solved by installing the container directly on the stove. Hot water enters the heating system through the outlet. Having passed in a circle, it gives off heat to the room and returns back to the container

If a pump is installed in the system, the volume of the tank is small, and with natural circulation it has impressive dimensions. To control the water parameters, a pressure gauge and a thermometer are installed on the tank.

Drip potbelly stove for mining

You can also make an economical model of a drip stove on your own. A small metal barrel or other container available on the farm is suitable for the case. A hole is made in the body through which oil will flow.

Such a unit, operating on waste oil products, can smoke, so the room in which it is installed must have good ventilation.

A hole is made in the container along the diameter of the tube. The tube itself is given the shape of the letter "L", and the burner is suspended.

Alteration of a solid fuel stove for mining

When the farm already has a potbelly stove, but is not satisfied with the fact that it runs on solid fuel, you can modernize it and it will become universal. To do this, a prefix is \u200b\u200bmade, resembling in its design a stove on processing in its lower part.

There is also a perforated pipe here, but not straight, but bent at a right angle. It is connected to the side wall of the furnace, which serves as the final combustion chamber. If the potbelly stove door is welded and a hole is made in it for the pipe to enter, then the furnace will work only on working off.

The modernization of this oven consists not only in adding a special attachment to it, but also in the original solution to protect nearby objects from fire, using the principle of convection. For this, pipes were welded to the side wall of the furnace. Cold air entering them from below cools the structure

To be able to use not only technical oil for heating, but also firewood, two replaceable doors are made. The standard one is hung when it is planned to lay firewood, and the modernized one with the corresponding hole - when the stove will operate on waste oil.

We also offer you to read the article on how to collect a potbelly stove using waste oil from a pipe - to familiarize yourself with the material, go to.

Secrets of the successful operation of a potbelly stove

In order for a stove stove that runs on waste oil to work efficiently and safely, you need to adhere to several tips. The oil must stand before use. Pour it into the oil tank for 2/3 of the volume of the latter.

For safety reasons, all elements of the stove should be regularly cleaned. To simplify this task, its top module should be removable. This will provide access to the combustion chamber. To remove soot from the walls of the chimney, it should be tapped.

To extend the life of the combustion chamber and the furnace as a whole, it must be painted using paints that are resistant to high temperatures. The stove should be installed on a non-flammable base. It should not be placed in a draft, under the influence of which the flame may escape.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Improved design of the stove-stove. The details of its creation are shared by the author of this video:

The stove-stove has a simple design, but to make it yourself, you need drawings with exact dimensions. A structure made by eye will not only not provide heat, but will also become a source of various troubles in the form of soot, splashed oil and numerous alterations.

It makes sense to start manufacturing such a unit only when it is possible to provide it with fuel. Otherwise, its operation will be economically unprofitable.

Perhaps you already have experience in making your own stove-stove? Please share some valuable tips with our readers. Leave your comments in the block below. Here you can ask a question of interest on the topic of the article, and we will try to answer it promptly.

In order to carry out some work in the garage or in the country during the cold season, you need to organize the simplest heating. Knowing how much electricity costs today, most garage craftsmen prefer to use factory and homemade heaters that operate on wood or oil. The task of our article is to provide drawings and describe in detail how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands for use in a garage or a small country house.

We select the design of the stove

Since there are enough drawings of ordinary stoves on the Internet, we will offer a choice of 4 original designs, one of which will certainly suit your conditions:

1. Double pass wood and coal fired oven welded from sheet metal.
2. Vertical heater from a gas cylinder with an air or water circuit.
3. Long-burning pyrolysis stove from a cylinder or pipe installed horizontally.
4. Dripper for the development of automotive and other oils.

Unit with two smoke circuits

Note. A heating stove can also be built from ceramic bricks, as described in this topic. Such a heat source will fit well into the interior of the summer cottage, but it is inconvenient for a garage due to the size of the brick structure, long warm-up and lack of mobility.

Wood heater with air chamber at the top

1. If you spend a little time in the garage (1-3 hours a day), then you will need to quickly heat the room, and it will be provided by a vertical wood-burning stove with an air heat exchanger (option No. 2), shown in the photo. Thanks to the fan blowing air through the upper chamber, it acts like a heat gun.
2. The same second option is suitable for large boxes (standard garage dimensions are 6 x 3 m). Then the air chamber turns into a water circuit connected to the heating registers.
3. For constant heating of a standard garage, option No. 1 is suitable - an effective two-pass wood-burning stove, or No. 3 - a continuous burning unit. The choice depends on the material you have: the first is made from a propane cylinder, the second is made of sheet iron 4 mm thick.
4. Those who plan to burn waste oils for heating are advised to weld a drip-type stove from a round pipe (option No. 4). If you wish and skill, you can modernize it - convert it into a boiler, making a water jacket.

Two-chamber pyrolysis oven

Reference. Of the popular garage homemade products, 2 more designs are worth mentioning: the famous stove - a top-burning Bubafon stove and a small heater made of wheel disks. The manufacture of the first is described in detail, the second is shown in the video:

Assembling an effective potbelly stove

It is well known that ordinary iron stoves are characterized by low efficiency (about 45%), since a significant part of the heat goes into the chimney along with the flue gases. Our design implements a modern technical solution used in solid fuel boilers - the installation of two baffles in the path of combustion products. Bypassing them, the gases transfer thermal energy to the walls, which makes the efficiency higher (55-60%), and the potbelly stove becomes more economical. The principle of operation of the unit is reflected in the drawing - diagram:

For manufacturing, you need low-carbon steel sheet 4 mm in thickness, a piece of pipe Ø100 mm and rolled metal for the legs and grate. Now about how to make an economical potbelly stove:

1. Cut metal blanks according to the drawing and make openings for the doors of the firebox and ash pan.
2. Weld a grate from corners or fittings.
3. Make doors with locks from the cut out parts.
4. Assemble the unit with tacks, and then weld the seams all over. Install the chimney pipe and legs.

Council. The lower partition, strongly heated by the flame, is best made of thicker iron - 5 or 6 mm.

For better heat transfer, craftsmen practice welding additional external ribs to the body, as is done in the photo.

How to weld a vertical oven from a cylinder

This stove-stove differs from similar units by the presence of an air chamber arranged in the upper part and completely isolated from the firebox by a steel partition. Heat exchange fins are installed inside it, through which the heated air is blown by a fan. For supplying a cold stream and ejecting a hot stream, nozzles with a diameter of 40-50 mm are built into the lid, as shown in the drawing.

Note. The arrangement of the air heating chamber in the upper zone of the firebox makes it possible to extract the heat of the combustion products passing by it into the chimney. Since in a vertical stove, the flame covers the entire portion of the wood, an intense heating of the air flow occurs in a separate compartment, due to which the temperature in the garage rises quickly.

The first step is the correct disassembly of a 50 liter propane cylinder. To displace the residual liquefied gas, it is necessary to unscrew the valve and fill the tank to the top with water. After the grinder, you need to cut off the lid (cutting line - factory seam) and proceed in this order:

1. In the side wall of the cylinder, make rectangular openings for the ash and loading doors and frame them with a steel strip 3 mm thick, as shown in the drawing. Cut out a Ø100 mm hole for the flue pipe.
2. Make a removable grate and install them inside the body on the welded corners.
3. Make ash and fuel chamber doors, attach handles and hinges to them, and then install in framed openings.
4. Cut a Ø30 cm circle out of 4mm metal to form the bottom of the chamber. Weld to one of its surfaces the ribs from the waste metal roll, and then hermetically join it to the firebox for welding.
5. Make 2 holes in the cut-off cover and weld in the air duct connections. When ready, install the cover in its original place (but now - above the heat exchanger) and carefully weld the joint.

A vertical potbelly stove in a garage is capable of burning wood of various quality and humidity, including sawdust, as well as supplying heated air to any point in the room, which is important for greenhouses. In addition, it can provide heat to radiators and registers if they are connected to the nozzles in the upper chamber lid and the system is filled with a coolant.

Attention! To avoid boiling water and breaking through pipes, you need to create its constant forced circulation from the pump and put an open-type expansion tank. Use antifreeze as a coolant, because the garage is not heated around the clock.

Horizontal heater manufacturing

If you lay a standard propane cylinder horizontally, and arrange a door at the end, you get a rather spacious firebox, where meter-long logs will enter. For better heat transfer and afterburning of the resulting pyrolysis gases, you need to make a secondary chamber with partitions, as shown in the drawing.

The afterburning of combustible gases in this potbelly stove is combined with the extraction of heat from the combustion products that go around hemispherical partitions (cut from the cylinder body). Well, an indispensable attribute of intense heat transfer - external ribs made of steel strips - are mandatory. Practice shows that such a stove heats a garage with an area of \u200b\u200bup to 50 m² in medium combustion mode, which is described in the next video:

In manufacturing, the heating unit is simple: doors are installed in the front part, and a hole is cut in the back, where the secondary chamber is welded from a pipe or a second cylinder. In order not to take away the useful volume of the firebox, the ash pan is made hinged. If necessary, a hob is placed on top of the horizontal part.

Making a potbelly stove for mining

Diesel fuel and used engine oil are very high-calorie fuels. If you get it inexpensively, then there is no point in messing with wood and coal, it is easier to make a reliable stove - a dropper. Its principle of operation is to incinerate waste, dripping inside a hot bowl. Moreover, on the way, the liquid fuel has time to warm up, as it passes through the oil line built into the pipe - the afterburner. The drip-type stove-stove device is shown in detail in the drawing.

For efficient combustion of oil, air is blown into the stove using a fan, and the mining flows naturally from a tank suspended from the wall next to the heater. Another option is forced fuel supply by pressurizing the fuel tank (for example, with a hand pump).

Both a Ø219 mm pipe and a propane cylinder with a diameter of 30 cm can act as a furnace body. Making an oil stove with your own hands is a simple task, the main thing is to correctly make holes and slots in the afterburner and lay the fuel pipe to the bowl installed at the bottom. For a complete assembly guide, see our other article. You can get a closer look at the heater operation from the video:

Conclusion

You need to understand that the above designs of wood and oil stoves for a garage can be changed and modified by you during operation. That is the beauty of homemade stoves - they are improved at your request. Example: garage craftsmen often make an external water circuit based on a samovar heat exchanger built into the vertical section of the chimney. This makes it possible to use water heating without interfering with the design and alteration of the furnace itself.

Design engineer with over 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dahl with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

Related entries:

When operating any mechanisms, technical oils are used. During their intended use, they are not burned and remain flammable. Instead of recycling, an alternative option for reusing them is a waste oil potbelly stove, which you can make with your own hands.

Let's try to figure out how a potbelly stove works and what materials are required for its manufacture. We will also tell you about popular models of homemade stoves and share the secrets of their successful operation.

The work of a potbelly stove is based on the phenomenon of pyrolysis. In such a furnace, where the fuel is oil processing, there are 2 main compartments: the tank and the combustion chamber, which are located at different levels. The first is intended for pouring mining and its combustion.

In another compartment, located above, the combustion products of the working off, mixed with air, are afterburned. At the first stage, the temperature is relatively moderate, and at the second stage it is much higher - up to 800⁰.

When making such a furnace, the main task is to make sure that air flows into both compartments. It enters the first chamber through an opening for loading liquid fuel. The hole is equipped with a special damper, through which the volume of air supply is regulated.

Despite the fact that the design of the stove is very simple, increased requirements are imposed on the chimney of the stove. For effective removal of combustion products, a straight pipe with a diameter of more than 10 cm and a length of more than 400 cm must be prepared. Bends and horizontal sections are highly undesirable. In addition to its direct purpose, the pipe also acts as a residual heat exchanger

Air access to the second tank is provided by holes with a diameter of about 9 mm. The efficiency of a correctly assembled potbelly stove reaches 90%. Visually different stoves can differ from each other both in shape and size, but the principle of operation is the same.

The power of the stove-stove is proportional to the volume of the lower tank. The more voluminous it is, the less often you will have to add mining. Sometimes this container is made very massive, containing about 30 liters of used oil.

Improvement of the simple design of the stove for testing made it possible to invent a unit for arranging a garage, in which it would be pleasant to wash your hands with hot water, or a small private bath:

Image gallery

Creating a stove-stove from a gas cylinder

Another variant of the design of the furnace for development is a self-made potbelly stove based on a 50-liter gas cylinder. In addition to this basic element, you need to prepare 2 steel pipes with a wall of about 4 mm and a diameter of 10 cm. One of them will remove the burning gases, and the second will act as a heat exchanger.

To this must be added a 4 mm steel sheet for the canopy over the heat exchanger and the baffle separating the evaporator and the combustion chamber. For the vapor chamber itself, you will need a brake disc from a car with such a diameter that it effortlessly enters the cylinder. A piece of 0.5-inch pipe is needed to transport oil to the combustion chamber.

An excellent potbelly stove is obtained from a used cylinder. Although there is no gas in it, it is better to play it safe - to hold the cylinder outside for a while with the valve open. Lather is applied around the outlet. When it stops bubbling, the valve is twisted, if it is removable, if not, the condensate is drained in another way

In addition, you should keep in stock an equilateral steel angle with a shelf of 50 mm and a length of more than 1 m, a 0.5 inch valve, clamps for sealing - 2 pcs., A hose, any cylinder equipped with a needle valve.

The work on creating a potbelly stove is performed in a certain order. First, the balloon is turned upside down and a small hole is drilled in it. A measure such as wetting the drill and the drilling area with oil will prevent sparking.

The valve is dismantled with a gas or adjustable wrench. After the vessel is freed from all residues, it can be cut, welded

The container is freed from gas condensate. Drain it carefully away from the housing, because its unpleasant smell persists for a long time. Then the workpiece is filled with water, after which it is drained again, thus removing the remaining gas. Since the mixture is explosive, there should be no source of open flame nearby.

Cut out in the body of the cylinder 2 rectangles of the same width, equal to 1/3 of the diameter of the workpiece. The height of the lower rectangle is 20 cm, the second, located 5 cm higher than the first, 40 cm. To divide the chambers, a circle with a diameter equal to the inner diameter of the vessel is cut out of the sheet.

A hole is made in its middle for a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm. This part will separate the combustion chamber from the heat exchanger.

A burner is made from a pipe 20 cm long and 10 cm in diameter. The lower part of it is perforated, making holes with a diameter of about 2 cm. The inside is cleaned from burrs, otherwise they will collect soot on themselves, which will significantly narrow the hole later.

A previously cut circle is put on the burner, placing it exactly in the middle, and welded. The structure is placed inside the stove and a weld is made around the circumference of the cylinder.

Weld the bottom and cover onto the car brake disc. This will be an evaporator pan or bowl. To supply fuel, an opening is left in the lid through which air will enter the stove. The opening is made quite wide, otherwise the thrust will decrease, and the oil will not get into the bowl.

Weld the pipe onto the top of the lid. A sleeve is made from a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm, which connects the bowl to the burner.

A fuel supply system is assembled, for which:

• make a receiving hole in the pallet;
• insert a 0.5-inch piece of water pipe into it at an angle of about 40⁰;
• weld the pipe to the furnace body;
• an emergency reserve valve is screwed to the pipe, the role of which is played by an ordinary water tap.

A heat exchanger is made from a pipe with a cross section of 10 cm. It is cut horizontally into the stove body, and a reflector is mounted at the end. Inflation is arranged by installing a duct fan at the end of the heat exchanger. The air, driven through the heat exchanger with its help, has a high speed.

In order to make the system more controllable, it is automated by connecting a thermal relay to a duct fan. This solution allows you to set the required temperature

An air swirler is placed inside the heat exchanger, consisting of triangular teeth connected by welding. A chimney is made from a pipe with a section of 10 cm.

It is welded into the hole in the upper part of the furnace body and led out through the wall to the roof of the building.

The section of the pipe passing through the enclosing structure is best placed in a fireproof glass, and a metal sheet must be attached at the entrance

Next, they are engaged in the manufacture of an oil tank. If there is a freon-free cylinder with a serviceable needle valve, then it is quite suitable for this purpose. The vessel and the stove-stove are connected by a hose connected to the valve. To fill the used oil, a hole is made in the tank body.

To provide air access to the burner and the evaporator bowl, a groove is selected in the door of the lower compartment. Thrust plates are attached to the opening of the upper chamber door, which ensures reliable sealing of the combustion chamber. For the same purpose, the door is additionally equipped with a lock.

Now, even if the stove body is deformed as a result of strong heating, the tightness of the combustion chamber will not be broken.

It remains to weld the legs from the corner pieces to the body and put the oven vertically. In addition to vertical stoves, and are made from a cylinder. Their structure is similar.

Potbelly stove plus water circuit

Any home can use an emergency heat source. An ordinary, but slightly modernized, potbelly stove can play its role. There are two ways to improve the furnace - to put a water jacket on the burner pipe or wrap its body with a coil of copper tubes.

The coil turns are placed at a distance of about 5 cm from the perforated potbelly casing and connected to the general heating system. A reflective screen is installed around the coil. For its manufacture, sheet aluminum, galvanized steel, tin are used.

The water jacket is a tank on the upper chamber of the stove. There should be 2 fittings in its body - one for supplying, and the other for removing water. In general, the design resembles a samovar. The volume of the water jacket depends on the length of the heating system and the way of circulation of the coolant.

In practice, the issue of the device of the water circuit is solved by installing the container directly on the stove. Hot water enters the heating system through the outlet. Having passed in a circle, it gives off heat to the room and returns back to the container

If a pump is installed in the system, the volume of the tank is small, and with natural circulation it has impressive dimensions. To control the water parameters, a pressure gauge and a thermometer are installed on the tank.

Drip potbelly stove for mining

You can also make an economical model of a drip stove on your own. A small metal barrel or other container available on the farm is suitable for the case. A hole is made in the body through which oil will flow.

Such a unit, operating on waste oil products, can smoke, so the room in which it is installed must have good ventilation.

A hole is made in the container along the diameter of the tube. The tube itself is given the shape of the letter "L", and the burner is suspended.

Alteration of a solid fuel stove for mining

When the farm already has a potbelly stove, but is not satisfied with the fact that it runs on solid fuel, you can modernize it and it will become universal. To do this, a prefix is \u200b\u200bmade, resembling in its design a stove on processing in its lower part.

There is also a perforated pipe here, but not straight, but bent at a right angle. It is connected to the side wall of the furnace, which serves as the final combustion chamber. If the potbelly stove door is welded and a hole is made in it for the pipe to enter, then the furnace will work only on working off.

The modernization of this oven consists not only in adding a special attachment to it, but also in the original solution to protect nearby objects from fire, using the principle of convection. For this, pipes were welded to the side wall of the furnace. Cold air entering them from below cools the structure

To be able to use not only technical oil for heating, but also firewood, two replaceable doors are made. The standard one is hung when it is planned to lay firewood, and the modernized one with the corresponding hole - when the stove will operate on waste oil.

We also offer you to read the article on how to collect a potbelly stove using waste oil from a pipe - to familiarize yourself with the material, go to.

Secrets of the successful operation of a potbelly stove

In order for a stove stove that runs on waste oil to work efficiently and safely, you need to adhere to several tips. The oil must stand before use. Pour it into the oil tank for 2/3 of the volume of the latter.

For safety reasons, all elements of the stove should be regularly cleaned. To simplify this task, its top module should be removable. This will provide access to the combustion chamber. To remove soot from the walls of the chimney, it should be tapped.

To extend the life of the combustion chamber and the furnace as a whole, it must be painted using paints that are resistant to high temperatures. The stove should be installed on a non-flammable base. It should not be placed in a draft, under the influence of which the flame may escape.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Improved design of the stove-stove. The details of its creation are shared by the author of this video:

The stove-stove has a simple design, but to make it yourself, you need drawings with exact dimensions. A structure made by eye will not only not provide heat, but will also become a source of various troubles in the form of soot, splashed oil and numerous alterations.

It makes sense to start manufacturing such a unit only when it is possible to provide it with fuel. Otherwise, its operation will be economically unprofitable.

Perhaps you already have experience in making your own stove-stove? Please share some valuable tips with our readers. Leave your comments in the block below. Here you can ask a question of interest on the topic of the article, and we will try to answer it promptly.

How to heat an unheated garage in winter? The simplest answer is to make a potbelly stove. This unit has a simple design and works great on wood, coal, sawdust, etc. However, the motorist does not always have a sufficient amount of such fuel. Waste engine oil is usually available. For many motorists, a do-it-yourself potbelly stove with waste oil has become an excellent alternative to a conventional wood-burning stove. However, such a stove is used not only for garages.

The principle of operation and advantages of such a stove

The combustion of fuel in the waste oil furnace occurs in two stages. First, the fuel poured into the tank burns out. The resulting gases mix with air. At the second stage, it is this gas-air mixture that burns, therefore, the potbelly stove for mining consists of two sections.

The furnace device for working out includes two combustion chambers, in one of which used oil burns, and in the other - a mixture of oil vapors and air

The first compartment is the tank into which the used oil is poured. It burns out at a relatively moderate temperature. Above, another compartment is located, designed for combustion of products mixed with air, formed during the combustion of working off. Here the process takes place at a much higher temperature, it can reach 800 degrees.

An important condition for the construction of a potbelly stove for working off with your own hands is to provide air access to both combustion chambers. For this, a small hole is made in the lower tank, which serves for filling fuel, as well as for adjusting the air supply. The hole is closed with a special shutter. Secondary air usually enters the upper chamber through small holes (about 10 mm) drilled in the pipe connecting the tank and the second combustion chamber.

Read also how you can build a stove-stove for a garage and a summer cottage, which can be heated with wood, peat or waste:.

To provide air access to the second combustion chamber of the stove during mining, it is necessary to make small holes in the pipe connecting this chamber and the oil tank

The ability to use almost free fuel from waste oil is not the only advantage of such a unit. Thanks to the high combustion temperature, it heats the room quickly and efficiently. If the device works correctly, neither unpleasant odors nor substances hazardous to human health are emitted from it, therefore, from the point of view of ecology, a potbelly stove at mining is considered completely safe.

However, the use of flammable substances in such a stove, for example, gasoline, thinner, etc., can be dangerous. It should also be remembered that some types of used transformer oil can release compounds harmful to health when heated.

Drawing of the simplest and most popular waste oil stove (click to enlarge)

Step-by-step manufacturing of the stove according to the drawing above

The owners of the working off furnaces stock up on fuel in the summer. To do this, a container is placed in the garage into which the used oil is poured. By winter it accumulates quite a decent amount of fuel. Inexpensively or completely free of charge, used oil can be obtained from car repair shops, service stations, etc.

In our next article, you will find instructions for making a working furnace from a gas cylinder:.

We remake a potbelly stove for working on mining

Owners of an ordinary potbelly stove, who decide to switch to heating with waste oil, can make some changes to the design of an existing unit. When figuring out how to remake an ordinary potbelly stove for mining, one should take into account the principles of operation of this unit, that is, ensure the secondary combustion chamber and air access to both chambers. Here is one of the options for such a rework:

1. 1. Weld a waste oil tank from sheet iron.
   2. Cut a hole in the stove for air supply.
   3. Install a valve that will regulate the flow of air into the fuel tank.
   4. Instead of a chimney, place a pipe with air holes.
   5. Make a secondary combustion chamber with a removable top.
   6. Connect the secondary combustion chamber to the perforated pipe.
   7. Install the chimney.

Of course, the blower of an ordinary potbelly stove must be closed during the transition to mining in order to ensure proper traction. If desired, the stove's hatch, through which firewood or coal is loaded, can simply be brewed. In this case, the oil will be supplied to the oven through the view. Oil is also ignited through the same hole. However, a more convenient option for loading fuel will probably be the ability to remove the fuel tank from the stove. In this case, it makes sense to think about creating a universal stove that uses waste oil or wood.

This diagram clearly demonstrates one of the options for the device of a potbelly stove for mining. The more accurately the finished unit corresponds to the recommendations of engineers, the better the stove will work.

Universal option: firewood + mining

Sometimes circumstances dictate the need to use different types of fuel. For this, there is no need to keep two units in the room at once. There are models of universal stoves that can easily switch from wood and coal to used engine oil. The following video describes in detail the device and operating features of such a model.

It is not difficult to understand how you can make a universal potbelly stove for mining. The bottom tank of such a stove is an ordinary wood-burning stove with grates, a compartment for collecting ash and a chimney. A container for waste oil is installed at the top of this compartment and a view with a shutter is made.

The modernized lower compartment is connected to the secondary combustion chamber with a special pipe, in which air holes are provided and the possibility of closing them if necessary. A chimney is brought out from above.

If you need to use such a unit as a stove, you need to remove the oil container and close the view, as well as the holes on the pipe. After that, firewood, coal, sawdust, etc. can be burned in the stove.To switch to heating by working off, the actions are performed in the reverse order:

1. Install the oil tank.
2. Open the view.
3. Openings for secondary air intake.

After that, waste engine oil can be used as fuel in the stove.

For the work of such a stove to be safe, it must be cleaned regularly. For this, the upper part of the secondary combustion chamber is made removable. It is cleaned in accessible places, and the chimney is tapped to remove accumulated soot. In addition, accumulated dirt should be regularly removed from the oil tank.

You may also find useful material on the general principles of operating waste oil furnace equipment and safety rules:.

When operating a homemade potbelly stove during mining, some owners of the unit face a number of problems. For instance:

• the room is heated unevenly;
• working off during combustion rages and splashes out of the tank;
• there is a smell of smoke;
• fuel burns out too quickly, etc.

The problem of uneven heating of the room, when it is hot near the stove, and cold in the opposite corner, can be solved by attaching a special "labyrinth" to the secondary combustion chamber. A pipe is taken out of this labyrinth, on which a small fan is placed. This design allows the hot air to be directed in any suitable direction. Thus, it was possible to increase the air temperature in the garage to 15-20 degrees Celsius at an outside temperature of -35 degrees.

If a do-it-yourself furnace for testing does not heat up the room evenly, you can attach a special "labyrinth" to it, which will allow you to properly distribute the heat by supplying a stream of air in the right direction

In many ways, the work of the stove during mining depends on the correct thrust and the size of the unit. Therefore, it is recommended not to make the oven "by eye", but to use precise drawings and try to comply with the established dimensions. It should be remembered that the higher the capacity of the fuel tank, the faster the oil will burn, that is, the higher its consumption.

So that the mining does not hiss, does not boil, but burns calmly, it is necessary to use machine oil, which has previously settled, and was not drained a couple of hours ago. In addition, it is recommended to fill the fuel tank no more than two thirds.

A simple internal structure and at the same time high thermal efficiency - these are the qualities that distinguish a wood-burning stove and working off. The elementary design without complex assemblies allows you to independently make a stove from improvised means.

Homemade stoves are used for heating warehouses, garages, car repair shops, etc.

What is better to make a combined stove

You can make a wood-burning stove and do it yourself in several ways:

1. The simplest device made of steel and metal containers (cylinders).
2. Models using forced air injection - turbocharging.
3. Drip feed device for mining.

As for the drip-fed furnace equipment, it is quite difficult to make it completely safe, calculate the performance and comply with other conditions on your own. For this reason, the choice should be stopped on a home-made universal stove on waste oil and wood with natural and forced air supply.

In the first case, the furnace is made exclusively from steel sheets with a thickness of at least 5 mm. It is allowed to use gas cylinders, which are filled with water before cutting to prevent the explosion of the remaining gas.

Two closed containers are made from the cylinder body, interconnected by an adapter - a metal pipe, 2-3 mm thick. Holes are drilled in the connector at the same distance from each other.

As a result of the assembly, a kind of mining attachment is obtained, installed on the floor with one end, and with the second built into the firebox of a solid fuel furnace. Homemade universal stoves for waste oil, wood, sawdust and garbage, with built-in water heating, are equipped with a coil made of aluminum or copper.

A little more complicated is a device with a built-in fan that blows air flows to burn the mines. Some users install a fan next to the stove to direct the air flow into the blower.

Combined stove for firewood and mining

A universal metal furnace for mining and wood burning has a device in which oil is supplied from above, and firewood is laid from below. In the process of burning solid fuels, the principle of top combustion is used.

The furnace has the following features:

• Convective channels - a wood-burning stove for working off, hot-water. The room is heated by radiation from the heated metal walls. To increase thermal efficiency, several pieces of pipe are welded onto the body. This is how the simplest air-heating device appears, using the principle of convection heating.
• Water jacket - a hand-made wood-burning and waste oil stove with a water circuit, allows you to heat not only a room with an installed heater, but also adjacent rooms.
  A simple coil is installed inside the body. A piece of curved pipe of the appropriate diameter will do. For better heat dissipation, use a copper or aluminum coil.
  The heat sink is installed so as to avoid direct contact with fire. Heating is carried out by means of heated flue gases.
• Firebox - regardless of what it is planned to heat the furnace, use the attachment for mining or wood, the principle of pyrolysis combustion is applied. To begin with, the fuel itself is burned, and then the exhaust gases are afterburned. For this purpose, the design provides for two combustion chambers.

In furnaces with natural air supply and air extraction, special nozzles inside the body are used to ensure the necessary oxygen supply.

How to convert a wood-burning stove for mining

Alteration of a wood-burning stove for used engine oil does not require changing the internal structure and design of the heater. As a rule, for this purpose, a special attachment for testing is made, consisting of the following units:

• Primary combustion chamber - in fact, it is a waste pan, which has the simplest purpose of storing fuel and providing a sufficient evaporating surface necessary for burning oil.
• Fuel inlet - on the side of the fuel receiver made, a piece of small diameter pipe is welded. The mining will be poured through the hole and ignited.
• Secondary combustion chamber - a full-fledged furnace does not exist in the device for burning a working-off. The afterburner is a bent pipe of sufficient diameter connected to a pallet. Along the entire length, injection holes are made - nozzles for the supply of air necessary for secondary combustion during pyrolysis.
• Protective casing - during the modernization of the wood-burning stove for used oil, it is taken into account that the main heating will be carried out due to the steel walls of the furnace, and not thanks to the oil burner, attachment. For this reason, the pipe extending from the pallet is bent so that it is approximately in the center of the open door of the solid fuel heater. A steel casing is welded along the edges to fit the size of the wood-burning stove, preventing smoke from entering the room.

Modification of the furnace for the use of oil is not difficult and requires investment of minimal financial costs.

How to use oil in a wood stove

An all-in-one stove, which runs on both waste oil and wood, requires competent operation, the ability to refuel and ignite liquid fuel. Precautions are especially needed when using homemade stoves.

Refueling and firing up are performed as follows:

• Waste oil can be added to the furnace through a special hole with a branch pipe located on the attachment, specially made with a small diameter. Refueling is allowed while fuel is burning. The pallet is на filled.
• Ignition - sawdust mixed with used oil is used for fuel kindling. If the mining is cold, after refueling, add flammable liquid to the fuel receiver. Ignition is carried out with paper rolled into a tube.

After the oil has flared up, as evidenced by a uniform hum, the stove is switched to a long burning mode, covering the slide gate.

On what the heat transfer of the furnace is higher - on mining or on wood

Wood heating stoves, also using waste oil, are gradually becoming more and more popular. Demand and widespread use is influenced by the possibility of making it with your own hands, the cheapness of mining.

Operating experience helped to identify the following differences in the use of firewood and oil:

• Heat dissipation - burning oil produces more heat than burning wood. Liquid fuel is cheaper, therefore it is more economical to heat the furnace by working off.
  Any type of secondary oil can be used for combustion: engine oil, transmission oil, transformer oil. According to the heat release table, fuel oil, when burned, produces 39.2 MJ / kg, firewood is only 14-17 MJ / kg.
• Fuel availability - if there is a gas station or a car repair shop next to the heated room, it is not difficult to get oil.
  The cost for working out will be 1–2 times cheaper compared to what the intermediaries offer it. Firewood is more expensive, but available in almost every region of the Russian Federation.

It is quite simple to combine a stove for working off and firewood. You don't need to buy expensive equipment for this. The modernization will lead to savings in heating costs by at least 40%.