PPU spraying - all types of home insulation with polyurethane foam. How to insulate the roof, the choice of materials for pitched and flat roofs Insulation of roof overhangs

Large country - large volumes of housing construction. Not only multi-storey, but also private. And every developer needs and needs knowledge on general construction issues, according to the rules and regulations, including about roofing processes.

Competently executed roofing structures are a guarantee not only of a warm home and a comfortable atmosphere, but also the durability of other elements of the structure.

Roofing is an important stage in the construction of buildings.

Physical processes of heat transfer

In a heated house, temperature drops are inevitable, the presence of moisture in the air in the form of steam, condensate. Steam is produced by the vital activity of humans or animals, penetrates into building structures, cools and moisturizes them. The vast majority of building materials allow air to pass through to one degree or another. Therefore, any residential building, individual or multi-apartment, is an air volume in which warm air rises up through all structures.

In high multi-storey buildings, the traction effect appears. Warm air rises to the upper floors, especially in porches, and penetrates outside through windows and attics. On the lower floors, on the contrary, there is an influx of cold outside air. This process also takes place in a one-story heated house, only with less dynamics.

On the other hand, steam of warm air condenses into water in structures, which not only moistens them, but also has the ability to flow downward, filling cavities in the structures. The main function of condensing water vapor is assumed by the uppermost part of the building - the roof. In winter, this process is intense and constant, and in summer, mainly during cool nights.

Most modern and effective method prevent or significantly reduce moisture condensation in the roof - make it ventilated naturally or forcedly. Natural cold ventilation does not require energy costs, therefore its design is preferable. However, there are roofs of complex architecture that lack the power of natural ventilation, then forced ventilation comes to the rescue.

Ventilation removes warm humid air into the surrounding space, thereby leaving supporting structures, insulation dry, extending the service life and providing thermal insulation. We need to manage this process, which is done with the so-called roofing pie.

The concept appeared relatively recently and denotes a multi-layer roof structure, in which the leading place is given to the creation of ventilation ducts. There are two types of roofing cake: for heated and insulated rooms and for cold roofing. Each layer is interconnected functionally with other layers, and the absence of any reduces the protective properties of the entire cake.

If the attic is a cold, non-insulated part of the building, it is performed in several successive layers. The following tools are required for work.

• a hammer;
• drill with drills 4-12 mm;
• hacksaw for wood;
• electric or mechanical stapler (stapler) with staples 14x8 mm;
• level, meter ruler, square;
• scissors;
• screwdrivers different sizes;
• a flute brush for antiseptic treatment of wood trim points;
• construction sealant.

On the upper side of the rafters, a waterproofing film is laid (not to be confused with a vapor barrier). The slack of the film should be 20-40 mm for condensate drainage. Fix it along the rafters with a counter-lattice 30-50 mm thick and wide as the rafters themselves. It is better to glue the film at the attachment point onto double-sided tape.

To reduce waste, the film can be laid in horizontal rows from bottom to top and with an overlap of 100-150 mm. The joints of the strips are glued, creating a continuous web. The resulting condensation water will flow down the film to the eaves of the roof.

After the installation of the waterproofing layer, the lathing for the roofing is sewn across the rafters on the counter battens. The width of the board, the gap between them is selected depending on the roofing material.

1. For ceramic and soft tiles on the lathing, use an inch board 100 mm wide. It is laid with a gap of 50-100 mm, after which it is completely sewn up from above with a building board or waterproof plywood with a thickness of at least 9 mm. The underlayment is still laid under the soft tiles.
2. The lathing from a board 30x100 and with a step of 300-400 mm is performed under metal or corrugated board;
3. For metal standing seam roofing, a lathing made of an inch board 150-250 mm wide is used, sewn onto a counter lattice with a minimum gap of 20-50 mm.

At the end, the roofing material is laid directly on the batten or building board. It is attached with special nails, screws or clamps to the crate. Roof attachment points are protected with sealants, and the crate is pre-treated with an antiseptic. Additionally, you can perform a rough filing along the rafters from the attic side.

A ventilation gap appeared between the roof in the total thickness of the battens and counter battens. This is 55-80 mm height of the roof space along the slope of the rafters. In winter, warmer attic air, partially penetrating through the waterproofing, will rise to the ridge of the roof and be discharged into the atmosphere, without having time to condense moisture. And in the summer, the air heated by the roof is also removed from under the roof.

Ventilation of the attic is important for the roof space. It is carried out through dormer windows arranged on the pediments from different sides. The ventilation of the living space, attic and under-roof space are interconnected and one of their goals is to reduce steam and condensation in the roofing cake.

Ventilated insulated roof structure

Often the attic is used as an attic, insulated from the side of the roof. In this case, several more layers are added to the roofing cake. Now there is no attic air gap between the living space and the roof. The warm and humid air of the attic immediately penetrates into the under-roof space. And if you do not take additional measures to drain it, there will be much more condensate and the structures will begin to get wet. Thermal insulation materials will no longer perform their functions and the air in the room will be cold. We'll have to increase heating.

In addition to those layers that are already performed in cold roof, add a thick layer of insulation, laid between the rafters from the inside. If ordinary rafters are 150 mm wide, then the thickness of the insulation between the rafters can be no more than 100 mm. The reason is the need to leave a minimum gap (do not touch) before the waterproofing sag, which reaches 40 mm. If there is a touch, water flowing down the insulation will get into the insulation. To increase the thickness of the layer, a beam of the required thickness is sewn onto the rafters and insulation is added.

Then it is covered with a vapor barrier film. The goal is to minimize the ingress of steam from the room into the insulation as much as possible so that it does not get wet. Wet insulation is useless, it does not keep warm and, in addition, moisturizes the surrounding structures. First, a rough, and then a final lining is sewn onto the vapor barrier.

Now the path of wet steam to the roof is blocked, and although a small part of it still penetrates, it is carried out into the atmosphere by the under-roof ventilation air flow without harming the roof structures. And if the warm room itself is not ventilated, where will the steam go? Through all kinds of microscopic pores and cracks, it will still go up to the roof. This will be facilitated by the excess pressure generated in the warm room of the attic.

To relieve excessive pressure, reduce the moisture content in the living space and thereby help the under-roof ventilation to remove humid air into the atmosphere, ventilation of the room itself will allow.

Ventilated cornice device

Longitudinal ventilation ducts roofing cake will not work effectively if, on the one hand, in the lower part, at the very eaves, there is no supply atmospheric air... On the other hand, humidified air must be allowed out from the very top of the roof - from the ridge.

Waterproofing film is the most durable of all types of films used in home construction, so it does not allow water or moisture to pass through even under high pressure.

The waterproofing film is removed and glued with a sealant to a metal cornice strip installed in the plane of the batten. The roof is fixed on top. Air inflow is carried out in 3 ways. Firstly, through the gaps of the roofing material profile, secondly, through the gable overhangs and, thirdly, through the micropores of the waterproofing film, pulling steam out of the insulation.

When covering the cornice, ventilation holes or gaps are provided in its lower part, depending on the many options for the structure of the cornice. One of modern ways - this is a continuous filing of the cornice plastic panels with perforations for roof ventilation.

Creating a skate hood

Depending on the design of the roof covering, the air flow from under the roof is collected in the ridge and discharged into the atmosphere either through structural gaps along the ridge length or through the gable holes. For example, a set of ceramic and metal tiles includes special ridge elements with ventilation gaps. Additionally, there are additional elements for a non-standard ridge shape.

This is the outer part of the roof. The internal device is performed in a certain sequence.

• the counter-lattice along the rafters is not brought to the geometric height at the same distance of 20-40 mm. The bars of the opposite slopes are not joined;
• the crate in 2 solid boards from both slopes on the ridge is also performed with a longitudinal gap of 40-80 mm;
• the waterproofing film along the ridge is cut with a margin of 200 mm from both slopes;
• between the ends of the counter-lattice and the lathing along the ridge, a ridge bar 40x100 mm is vertically installed;
• a waterproofing sheet is fixed to it and glued with a sealant;
• from above, this structure is closed with a ridge according to instructions and technology;
• end elements of the ridge are installed on the side of the gables, in which ventilation holes or gaps are provided.

Some features of a ventilated roof

Roof ventilation is not an independent process. On the contrary, ventilation or its absence in the premises directly affects the air exchange in the roof. To effectively remove destructive moisture from living quarters through the roof, it is necessary to consider the ventilation of all elements of the building as a single process.

If the shape of the roof is complex, has many transitions, valleys, ventilation processes must be divided into sections and air flows in the roof must be formed separately. As a result of effective ventilation, the air in the under-roof space should be replaced approximately 2 times within an hour.

The effectiveness of a ventilated roof depends on the slope of the slopes. The steeper they are, the stronger the ventilation process takes place. Conversely, in roofs with a slope of less than 20%, under-roof ventilation is unstable, effective only under wind pressure.

Is always useful device on the roof of additional exhaust elements (aerators), which help to enhance the natural ventilation of the roof. They should be placed on roofs of complex shapes, when conventional means are no longer enough. Aerators are installed near the ridge.

The thermal insulation properties of the insulation and the durability of roof structures directly depend on the presence of moisture in them. Therefore, the ventilated roof and the construction of the ventilation of the premises are economically profitable even in the case when it is necessary to install forced air exchange.

When building a house or reconstructing it, most often its owners come to the conclusion that the roof and ceiling must be insulated in order to prevent loss of thermal energy. To insulate the roof of a wooden house from the inside, you need to choose the right thermal insulation material and perform its installation, observing the technology.

It has long been established by experience and calculations that heat losses occur through each element of the house structure. For example, through attic floor and the roof leaves from 20 to 30% of the heat, which means that the same part of the amount paid for burning it was wasted. Therefore, once having invested in high-quality house insulation, you can save all subsequent years on heating it.

It should be noted that if the house is located in a region with a mild winter climate, then many home owners prefer to insulate only the attic floor. However, roof insulation at different times of the year can perform three functions:

- in winter it keeps the house warm;

- in summer it does not allow the attic to heat up, which means it will be cool in the house;

- in addition, the insulation is an excellent sound insulator, so the rooms will always be quiet, even during heavy rain and with any type of roofing.

Based on these arguments, we can conclude that it is best to insulate and soundproof not only the attic floor, but also the roof itself.

You may be interested in information on how it is produced with liquid insulation

Types of insulation for roof construction

The choice of insulation must also be done competently, providing for the technical and operational characteristics of the material. In this case, special attention should be paid to the following of them:

• Low thermal conductivity.
• Increased moisture resistance.
• Low flammability.
• Environmental cleanliness.
• The durability of the material.

The materials used to insulate the roof and attic from the inside include:

• Mineral wool in slabs and rolls.
• Ecowool made on cellulose basis.
• Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene).
• Penoizol and sprayed polyurethane foam.
• Expanded clay of different fractions (insulation of floors).

In addition, natural materials such as straw, slag, sawdust and dry leaves have traditionally been used. Some builders still use these heaters today, but they require special treatment, since they are not moisture resistant, which means that putrefactive processes and the formation of microflora colonies are possible in them.

All materials used for thermal insulation of the roof are relatively lightweight, therefore they will slightly weigh down the rafter and overlapping structure.

This table presents the main characteristics of the most popular insulation materials today:

Material parameters	Materials	Thickness, mm
		50	60	80	100	120	150	200	250
Density, kg / m³	Mineral wool	100-120
	Expanded polystyrene	25-35
	Polyurethane foam	54-55
Thermal resistance, (m2 ° K) / W	Mineral wool	1.19	1.43	1.9	2.38	2.86	3.57	4.76	5.95
	Expanded polystyrene	1.35	1.62	2.16	2.7	3.24	4.05	5.41	6.76
	Polyurethane foam	1.85	2.22	2.96	3.7	4.44	5.56	7.41	9.26
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m × ° K)	Mineral wool	0,038-0,052
	Expanded polystyrene	0.037
	Polyurethane foam	0.027
Weight of 1 m2, kg	Mineral wool	15.2	15.8	17.6	20.9	23.2	26.7	32.4	38.2
	Expanded polystyrene	9.8	10	10.5	11	11.5	12.3	13.5	14.8
	Polyurethane foam	11.2	11.7	12.8	13.9	15	16.6	19.3	22

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is most often used to insulate the roof structure, since this material is easy to install and well suited in terms of its parameters for thermal insulation of the attic of a wooden house.

One of the most comfortable materials - mineral wool

Since this material is made from different raw materials, its characteristics and prices vary somewhat among themselves. And in order to choose the best option, you need to consider each of its types:

• Slag wool is produced from blast-furnace slag and consists of fibers 5–12 µm thick and 14–16 mm long. This option is the most unsuitable for insulating the attic, so you should not flatter yourself with its low cost, since the insulation will have to be repeated in a couple of years.

Slag wool is quite hygroscopic, which means that it absorbs moisture well and, being saturated with it, it settles and loses its thermal insulation qualities. In addition, it has low heat resistance and is classified as G4. This insulation withstands temperatures of only 300-320 degrees, which is a low indicator for its use in wooden structures.

The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.48 ÷ 0.52 W / m × ° K, which is much lower than that of the other two types of mineral wool. During installation, it can be seen that the fibers are slag, rather brittle, brittle and prickly. Therefore, it is best not to use this type of mineral wool for residential premises.

• Glass wool. This type of insulation is made from molten sand and broken glass. The thickness of the fibers is 4–15 microns, and the length is 14–45 mm - these parameters give the material elasticity and strength. The chaotic arrangement of the fibers contributes to airiness and an increase in the insulating qualities of the heat insulator.

Advanced modern glass wool designed on for heating up to 460 ÷ 500 degrees, which is much higher than that of slag. The thermal conductivity of this type of mineral wool is 0.030 ÷ 0.048 W / m × ° K.

Glass wool is widely used for insulating stone buildings; it is also well suited for the roof of a wooden house. If a thermally insulated the attic version of the roof space, then glass wool is often used in combination with polyurethane foam.

Due to the fact that glass wool fibers are very thin, brittle and prickly, they easily penetrate the tissue, they can get into the mucous membranes of the eyes or into the respiratory tract. Therefore, when starting installation work, you should protect yourself with protective equipment by wearing a suit made of dense fabric, special glasses, a respirator and gloves.

• Basalt (stone) wool is made from mountain gabbro - basalt rocks. Thermal conductivity of basalt insulation is 0.032 ÷ 0.05 W / m × ° K, the material can withstand temperatures up to 550 ÷ 600 degrees.

Work with stone wool much easier, since its fibers are not so brittle and prickly, their thickness is from 3.5 to 5 microns, length is from 3 to 5 mm. They are located chaotically and their interlacing gives the insulation good strength, so the material is sufficiently resistant to mechanical damage.

Basalt wool prices

basalt wool

In addition, basalt insulation is inert to chemical influences and tolerates well the destructive influence of the external environment.

All types of mineral wool for surface insulation are available in rolls or mats (blocks) of different sizes. Today, in hardware stores, you can find foil material that is more effective for insulation, since the foil reflects and retains heat inside the room.

The main disadvantage of all types of mineral wool is the fiber binder, which is very often made on the basis of phenol-formaldehyde resin. It constantly releases toxic substances into the air that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, it is impossible to call any of the types of mineral wool absolutely environmentally friendly.

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Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene has become the most popular material for insulating houses, and all this is due to its affordability and ease of installation. But for that so that the attic was insulated thoroughly, without the formation of cold bridges, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the heat insulator to the surfaces, which is difficult to achieve using foam, since it does not have the required flexibility. Therefore, it is combined with other insulation materials, including sprayed polyurethane foam.

Plates of conventional expanded polystyrene - foam (left), and extruded

Polyfoam has an average thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.037 W / (m × ° K), but it also depends on the density of the material, as well as its thickness.

Moisture absorption conventional foam is up to 2%, which significantly exceeds this parameter for extruded polystyrene foam - here the threshold is about 0.4% of the total volume of the material.

Prices for expanded polystyrene

expanded polystyrene

The most dangerous quality of expanded polystyrene is its flammability, and when ignited, the material melts, at the same time creating a thick smoke. The smoke emitted from it is extremely toxic and hazardous to health.

Therefore, when choosing this insulation, it is necessary to take into account all its positive and negative properties and maximally protect the house from possible emergencies. Particular attention will need to be paid to reliable insulation of the wiring and correct installation chimney channels (pipes).

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is applied to roof and ceiling structures by spraying with help special equipment. Spraying is carried out in several layers, so the coating can have a fairly large thickness. With this method of application, polyurethane foam penetrates into all cracks and crevices, so the insulating layer will be completely sealed. Freezing and expanding, the insulation acquires high density, and its thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W / (m × ° K), at moisture absorption no more than 0.2% of the total volume of the material. And this means that there is no loss of its thermal insulation qualities.

The sprayed polyurethane foam quickly expands and hardens, and its excess is easily cut off with a sharp knife, which adds convenience in adjusting the finished coating to the level of the rafter system for further finishing or roofing work.

Using this material, you can refuse waterproofing, wind protection and vapor barrier - it perfectly copes with the whole complex of problems, without trapping steam and not allowing moisture to enter the room.

Polyurethane foam is sprayed on any surface: horizontal, vertical or inclined, as it has high adhesion to all building materials.

Ecowool

Ecowool is made from small cellulose particles. Laying of this material can be done "dry" and "wet".

Environmentally friendly material - ecowool

• In the first case, the insulation is scattered between the floor beams and compacted as far as possible by rolling. In this way, it will not be possible to lay on walls and roof structures.
• For the "wet" method of installation, special equipment is required, where the dry substance is mixed with adhesives, and then, under pressure, by means of a pipe, it is distributed to ceilings and walls.

"Wet" installation of ecowool

• Another option for insulation with ecowool is to fill the space between the rafter legs, after fixing a finishing material on them, for example, drywall or wooden lining. In this case, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material - it will depend on the height of the rafters, which will determine the thickness of the thermal insulation.

Ecowool has a number of advantages over other insulation materials, and the following can be attributed to them:

• It is an environmentally friendly material that does not emit any harmful fumes into the environment.
• Ecowool is able to "preserve" surfaces, preventing the development of fungal and putrefactive formations.
• If during the operation of the house it turns out that the thickness of the insulation layer on the roof is insufficient, then it can be increased or compacted already laid material.
• The insulation is laid quickly enough.
• Ecowool has a long service life without losing its original thermal insulation qualities.
• Cellulose insulation material is necessarily processed with fire retardants, therefore it has a very weak flammability and a tendency to self-extinguishing. In addition, ecowool does not smoke, and even more so it does not emit substances hazardous to the human body.
• Ecowool, applied to any surface, forms a seamless, sealed coating of the required thickness.
• Insulation is a "breathable" material, so moisture is not retained in it.
• The payback period for such insulation is one to three years.

The table below shows the comparative digital characteristics of two environmentally friendly materials - ecowool and expanded clay, which will be discussed below, discussed below.

Material parameters	Expanded clay gravel	Ecowool (cellulose)
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m ° K)	0,016-0,018	0,038-0,041
Density, kg / m³	200-400	42-75
Density of adhesion to the structure	Depending on the faction:	Tight fit, clogs all crevices and cracks well
	- 15-20 mm - the presence of voids;
	- 5-10 mm - snug fit.
Linear shrinkage	absent
Water vapor permeability mg / Pa × m × h	0.3	0.67
Chemical inertness	neutral
Flammability	incombustible	G1-G2 (weak combustible materialsince processed with fire retardants
Moisture absorption,% by weight	10-25	14-16

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is very often used to insulate the attic floor of a wooden house. Sure, rafter system expanded clay insulate it is difficult, but filling it between the floor beams on pre-prepared surfaces will not be difficult.

This material is made from specially prepared clay that undergoes high-temperature heat treatment. Expanded clay is produced in four fractions, ranging from expanded clay sand to large elements of 20 ÷ 30 mm in size.

Fraction, mm	Bulk density, kg / m³	Total density of the material, kg / m³	Compressive strength MPa
1 - 4	400	800 - 1200	2,0 - 3,0
4 - 10	335 - 350	550 - 800	1,2 - 1,4
10 - 30	200 - 250	450 - 650	0,9 - 1,1

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

The advantages of this material:

• Ecological cleanliness. It does not cause allergic reactions and does not emit toxic substances into the surrounding atmosphere.
• The insulation does not lose its original thermal insulation properties throughout the entire period of operation.
• For insulation, you can choose a material of a suitable fraction - the density of the backfill will depend on this. The finer the fraction, the denser the filling.
• Expanded clay is a non-combustible material, which is a very important quality for wooden structure... This insulation is used to isolate the chimneys from wooden floors, filling it into a box built around them.
• Another important advantage of this material is that it is not tolerated by domestic rodents. If the house is located on a suburban area, then even in the attic, mice can easily settle in it, and some heaters create quite suitable conditions for this - but not expanded clay!

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Supporting materials

In addition to thermal insulation materials, waterproofing (windproof) and vapor barrier films are used in the insulation "pie".

• Waterproofing is necessary in order to protect insulation against condensation, which can collect between the heat insulator and the roof. In addition, this material performs a windproof function, preventing cold, dust and moisture from the air from getting directly to the insulation, as well as into the attic.

This membrane must have vapor permeable ability - excess moisture in the insulation will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.

If the insulation is carried out in an already mounted structure and it is not planned to change the material of the roof, under which the waterproofing membrane should be located, then sprayed polyurethane foam will have to be used for insulation - it does not require protection from the wind, and it can be sprayed on ona reliable base of boards or directly onto the roofing.

• When insulating the roof slopes, the insulation is closed with a vapor barrier film from the side of the attic. The vapor barrier is designed to protect the thermal insulation material and wooden elements of the truss system from moisture penetration from the inside.

As you know, excess moisture that gets on insulation and wood can lead to mold and rotting, as well as an unpleasant smell, which will eventually pass into living rooms.

If it is planned to equip a heated room in the attic, then the vapor barrier film should be fixed under the wall decoration.

When insulating the floor, the vapor barrier is laid under the insulation, on the boards and beams of the structure, since it must retain heat in the rooms below and not allow wet vapors from them to get into the insulating layer.

The protective membrane is produced in different thicknesses and can be made of foil or non-woven material. If a film with a foil surface is used, then it is mounted on the roof slopes with the reflective side towards the attic. When insulating the floor, it should be turned towards the lower room. This is done so that the heat is reflected into the attic or towards the living rooms and does not go outside. Between themselves, the canvases are glued with foil tape, which will help create the integrity and tightness of the membrane.

If you want to save money, you can use the old proven methods of vapor barrier, when the gaps between the attic floor boards, as well as their joints with the beams, are well coated with a paste made from lead, clay. Such protection will not only create a high tightness of the floor, but will also protect the wood from the appearance of pests, and will also allow the insulation layers to "breathe".

When the lime or clay is well dry, you can proceed to insulation operations. By the way, wooden houses for a long time, they were insulated with sawdust - for this they were mixed with the same clay and a little lime was added to the mixture, which gave elasticity to the composition. In addition to sawdust, other natural materials were used for insulation, which were dried and laid between the floor beams.

This method of vapor barrier and insulation is still used today, as it helps to save a fairly decent amount. But all such work is very laborious and requires certain knowledge, skill and time.

Those home owners who want the work to go faster, use modern materials.

How to calculate the required insulation thickness?

It is not enough to decide on the type of insulation, based only on its environmental friendliness, ease of installation and cost. It is very important to correctly calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. This is also necessary for that so that create comfortable conditions in the room, in order to avoid overpaying for unnecessary material.

Combing t the required thickness of insulation is determined by special guidelines documents - SNiP 23 — 02-2003 " Thermal protection of buildings"And the Code of Rules SP 23—101-2004" Design thermal protection of buildings". They contain formulas for calculations that take into account a very large number of parameters. But, with some admissible simplification, the following expression can be taken as a basis:

δut \u003d (R - 0.16 - δ1 / λ1 - δ2 / λ2 – δ n/ λ n) × λout

We begin to understand the values \u200b\u200bavailable in the formula:

• δutIs the required parameter, the thickness of the layer of thermal insulation material.
• R - the required tabulated value of thermal resistance (m2 × ° FROM/ W) of the insulated structure. These parameters are calculated for each region of Russia in accordance with specific climatic conditions. Such thermal resistance will ensure, with a well-designed heating system, maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room of + 19 °. The diagram below with a map of Russia shows the value Rfor walls, ceilings and coverings.

When calculating insulation for the roof, the value "for coatings" is taken, for the attic floor - "for floors".

• δ n and λn—the values \u200b\u200bof the thickness of the material layer and the coefficient of its thermal conductivity.

The formula allows you to calculate the thickness of the insulation for a multi-layer structure, taking into account thermal insulating properties of each of the layers, from 1 before n... For example, a roofing "pie" will consist of a solid plywood sheathing over rafters with roofing felt on top. Below is a layer of insulation, which has to be calculated, and then the ceiling will be hemmed with natural wooden clapboard... Thus, three layers will be taken into account: lining + plywood + roofing material.

It is important - only those outer layers are considered that are tightly adjacent to each other. For instance, flat slate you can take into account, but wavy - no longer. If the roof structure requires a ventilated roof, then all layers above the ventilated gap are not taken into account.

Where do the values \u200b\u200bcome from? Measure the thickness of each layer ( δ n) – will not be difficult. The value of the thermal conductivity coefficient ( λ n), if it is not indicated in the technical documentation of the material, you can take it from the table below:

Estimated thermal performance of some building and thermal insulation materials
Material	Density of materials in a dry state, kg / m3	Design factors for various operating conditions
		ω		λ		μ
		AND	B	AND	B	A, B
λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity (W / (m ° C)); ω - coefficient of mass ratio of moisture in the material (%); ; μ - vapor permeability coefficient (mg / (m h Pa)
A. Polymer
Expanded polystyrene	150	1	5	0.052	0.06	0.05
Also	100	2	10	0.041	0.052	0.05
Also	40	2	10	0.041	0.05	0.05
Extruded polystyrene foam	25	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.013
Also	28	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.013
Also	33	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.013
Also	35	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.005
Also	45	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.005
Polyfoam PVC1 and PV1	125	2	10	0.06	0.064	0.23
Also	100 or less	2	10	0.05	0.052	0.23
Polyurethane foam	80	2	5	0.05	0.05	0.05
Also	60	2	5	0.041	0.041	0.05
Also	40	2	5	0.04	0.04	0.05
Perlitoplast concrete	200	2	3	0.052	0.06	0.008
Also	100	2	3	0.041	0.05	0.008
Thermal insulation products made of foamed synthetic rubber "Aeroflex"	80	5	15	0.04	0.054	0.003
Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex", type 35	35	2	3	0.029	0.03	0.018
Also. type 45	45	2	3	0.031	0.032	0.015
B. Mineral wool, fiberglass
Mineral wool stitched mats	125	2	5	0.064	0.07	0.3
Also	100	2	5	0.061	0.067	0.49
Also	75	2	5	0.058	0.064	0.49
Mineral wool mats on a synthetic binder	225	2	5	0.072	0.082	0.49
Also	175	2	5	0.066	0.076	0.49
Also	125	2	5	0.064	0.07	0.49
Also	75	2	5	0.058	0.064	0.53
Soft, semi-rigid and hard mineral wool boards on synthetic and bitumen binders	250	2	5	0.082	0.085	0.41
Also	225	2	5	0.079	0.084	0.41
Also	200	2	5	0.076	0.08	0.49
Also	150	2	5	0.068	0.073	0.49
Also	125	2	5	0.064	0.069	0.49
Also	100	2	5	0.06	0.065	0.56
Also	75	2	5	0.056	0.063	0.6
Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity based on organophosphate binder	200	1	2	0.07	0.076	0.45
Semi-rigid mineral wool slabs on starch binder	200	2	5	0.076	0.08	0.38
Also	125	2	5	0.06	0.064	0.38
Glass staple fiber slabs with synthetic binder	45	2	5	0.06	0.064	0.6
Stitched glass fiber mats and strips	150	2	5	0.064	0.07	0.53
Glass staple fiber mats "URSA"	25	2	5	0.043	0.05	0.61
Also	17	2	5	0.046	0.053	0.66
Also	15	2	5	0.048	0.053	0.68
Also	11	2	5	0.05	0.055	0.7
Glass staple fiber slabs "URSA"	85	2	5	0.046	0.05	0.5
Also	75	2	5	0.042	0.047	0.5
Also	60	2	5	0.04	0.045	0.51
Also	45	2	5	0.041	0.045	0.51
Also	35	2	5	0.041	0.046	0.52
Also	30	2	5	0.042	0.046	0.52
Also	20	2	5	0.043	0.048	0.53
Also	17 .	2	5	0.047	0.053	0.54
Also	15	2	5	0.049	0.055	0.55
B. Slabs of natural organic and inorganic materials
Fiberboard and chipboard	1000	10	12	0.23	0.29	0.12
Also	800	10	12	0.19	0.23	0.12
Also	600	10	12	0.13	0.16	0.13
Also	400	10	12	0.11	0.13	0.19
Also	200	10	12	0.07	0.08	0.24
Fiberboard slabs and arbolite on Portland cement	500	10	15	0.15	0.19	0.11
Also	450	10	15	0.135	0.17	0.11
Also	400	10	15	0.13	0.16	0.26
Reed slabs	300	10	15	0.09	0.14	0.45
Also	200	10	15	0.07	0.09	0.49
Peat thermal insulation slabs	300	15	20	0.07	0.08	0.19
Also	200	15	20	0.06	0.064	0.49
Plaster boards	1350	4	6	0.5	0.56	0.098
Also	1100	4	6	0.35	0.41	0.11
Plaster cladding sheets (gypsum plasterboard)	1050	4	6	0.34	0.36	0.075
Also	800	4	6	0.19	0.21	0.075
G. Backfill
Expanded clay gravel	600	2	3	0.17	0.19	0.23
Also	500	2	3	0.15	0.165	0.23
Also	450	2	3	0.14	0.155	0.235
Also	400	2	3	0.13	0.145	0.24
Also	350	2	3	0.125	0.14	0.245
Also	300	2	3	0.12	0.13	0.25
Also	250	2	3	0.11	0.12	0.26
E. Wood, products from it and other natural organic materials
Pine and spruce across the grain	500	15	20	0.14	0.18	0.06
Pine and spruce along the grain	500	15	20	0.29	0.35	0.32
Oak across the grain	700	10	15	0.18	0.23	0.05
Oak along the grain	700	10	15	0.35	0.41	0.3
Plywood, glued	600	10	13	0.15	0.18	0.02
Facing cardboard	1000	5	10	0.21	0.23	0.06
Construction multilayer cardboard	650	6	12	0.15	0.18	0.083
E. Roofing, waterproofing, facing materials
- Asbestos-cement
Asbestos-cement flat sheets	1800	2	3	0.47	0.52	0.03
Also	1600	2	3	0.35	0.41	0.03
- Bituminous
Petroleum bitumens for construction and roofing	1400	0	0	0.27	0.27	0.008
Also	1200	0	0	0.22	0.22	0.008
Also	1000	0	0	0.17	0.17	0.008
Asphalt concrete	2100	0	0	1.05	1.05	0.008
Products from expanded perlite on bitumen binder	400	1	2	0.12	0.13	0.04
Also	300	1	2	0.09	0.099	0.04

Note that there are two values \u200b\u200bgiven for materials λ n- for operating modes ANDor B.These modes provide for the peculiarities of the humidity regime - both by the region of construction and by the type of premises.

To begin with, it is necessary to determine the zone according to the map-scheme - wet, normal or dry.

Then, comparing the zone and features of the room, according to the proposed table, determine the mode, ANDor B, in accordance with which and choose the value λ n.

Room humidity regime	Operating conditions, A or B, by humidity zones (according to the map-scheme)
	Dry zone	Normal zone	Wet area
Dry	AND	AND	B
Normal	AND	B	B
Wet or wet	B	B	B

• λut -thermal conductivity coefficient for the selected type of insulation, according to which the thickness is calculated.

Now, having written out the thickness and coefficient of thermal conductivity for each layer, you can calculate the thickness of the insulation. Please note that the formula requires you to specify the thickness in meters!

To make it easier for the interested reader, a special calculator is included. It provides for the calculation for three layers (excluding insulation). If the number of layers is less, then just leave the extra column blank. The thickness of the layers and the final result are in millimeters.

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The required thickness of the enclosing structure for wall insulation

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In order for the roof to perform its functions efficiently and serve long enough, it must be insulated. There are a lot of materials and methods for installing the thermal insulation layer, and the choice of the appropriate technology is always carried out individually. This article will discuss how to properly lay insulation on the roof of a private house.

The need for roof insulation

Of course, the final decision on whether to insulate the roof is made by the owner of the house - but before that you need to weigh all the pros and cons. The latter include additional costs for the arrangement of the roof and the efforts required for the installation of the heat-insulating layer.

However, the financial costs and efforts made will pay off in the future. The main advantage of roof insulation is that after installation, the level of heat loss of the entire building is reduced by an average of 15%. If the under-roof space is not supposed to be used as a living space, then the roof itself does not need to be insulated - the thermal insulation of the roof of the house in this case will be mounted on the attic floor or the ceiling of the residential premises. To prevent the structure from rotting, high-quality roof ventilation is required.

The most relevant roof insulation will be when arranging a residential attic, especially if the building is located in a region with a harsh climate. In such cases, if the attic is to be used all year round, you will have to pay special attention to the issues of its insulation and heating. Less stringent requirements are imposed on the insulation of summer attics.

How to properly insulate a flat roof

When insulating flat roof it should be borne in mind that thermal insulation can be both on the inside and on the outside. It is advisable to start with external insulation, and after the first winter decide whether it makes sense to insulate the roof along the rafters from the inside.

A flat roofing cake consists of:

• Vapor barrier layer;
• Insulation layer;
• Waterproofing layer;
• Bulk layer.

For the arrangement of external thermal insulation, basalt mineral wool is most often used, which is optimal for these purposes. However, you can choose from any type of rigid insulation - for example, expanded polystyrene would be a good option. It is also worth remembering that a roofing covering that is prone to fire cannot be insulated with polymer heat insulators.

Insulation of a pitched roof

Thermal insulation pitched roof installed on the rafter system. Before laying the insulation on the roof, it is necessary to design it in advance in order to avoid installation errors.

A pitched roof consists of the following elements:

• Roof covering;
• Waterproofing layer;
• Thermal insulation;
• Vapor barrier material;
• Interior decoration (optional).

As a heat-insulating material, mineral wool is most often used, which has high performance characteristics and is characterized by a relatively low cost. The main disadvantage mineral insulation is the ability to absorb moisture, due to which the thermal insulation properties are lost over time. In addition, the presence of moisture under the roof leads to the gradual destruction of wooden parts.

To compensate for the described disadvantage, the design must be supplemented with ventilation, hydro and vapor barrier. The insulation itself on the roof of the house is laid on the seamy side of the roof during its arrangement or repair. If we are talking about repairs, then damaged wooden elements should be replaced, and new ones are treated with protective compounds before installation.

In addition, for the effective operation of insulation and reliability, the roof must be well ventilated, therefore, it is necessary to equip ventilation ducts between:

• A layer of waterproofing and topcoat;
• Thermal insulation and waterproofing layer;
• Vapor barrier material and inner lining.

Pitched roof insulation materials

Different materials can be used for roof insulation, among which the most popular are:

• Mineral wool;
• Glass wool;
• Polyurethane foam;
• Expanded polystyrene.

The characteristics and features of the materials differ, but they all adequately protect the roof from temperature effects. It is only worth noting that it is best to select materials issued in the form of plates - they are much more convenient to mount.

For the arrangement of the waterproofing layer, an ordinary roofing material or a special waterproofing membrane is most often used, which does not allow water to pass through, but ensures the removal of moisture from the heat insulator. When installing waterproofing, you must ensure that the tightness of the material has not been broken.

The vapor barrier can be equipped with different materials, including:

• Roofing material;
• Polyethylene film;
• Glassine;
• Foil materials.

However, if we are talking about a high-quality vapor barrier layer, then the best option would be a vapor barrier membrane, which works on the principle of one-sided moisture transmission - condensate is removed from the insulation and does not enter the inner cavities of the roofing cake.

Roof insulation algorithm - how to install thermal insulation

Installation of a roof with insulation is reduced to the following sequence of actions:

1. First, the step of installing the rafter legs is measured. Plates of heat-insulating material are cut in accordance with the obtained dimensions, but 1 cm is added to them - this will enable the insulation to hold in its place on its own. You can simplify this stage of work when arranging a new roof by calculating it so that the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation plates.
2. A waterproofing layer must be installed in the space between the rafters and the topcoat. The membrane must be attached to the rafters so that it envelops them. For fixing, you can use a construction stapler, with which the waterproofing is attached to rafter legs and crate. Waterproofing material it is necessary to supply it to the eaves so that the collected moisture goes beyond the roof. The described mounting method does not allow to equip full ventilation, therefore, only a special waterproofing membrane should be used as a material.
3. If the waterproofing is already installed under the upper part of the roof, then nails are hammered into the rafters every 10 cm so that the distance between them and the membrane is at least 3-5 cm. Driven nails allow you to stretch a cord along the line of which it will pass air gap in the space between the waterproofing and thermal insulation material. In the event that the insulation itself is attached with a cord, then the nails will also need to be hammered along the outer side of the rafters.
4. When using heaters issued in the form of slabs, the installation is reduced to inserting them into the space between the rafters (of course, they will have to be squeezed a little so that they enter the gap). Stiffer materials must be carefully adjusted to the gaps in the rafter system before properly insulating the roof. For maximum efficiency, it is worth installing a two-layer insulation.
5. When installing narrow fragments that require joining along one of the planes, you need to make sure that the joints of the first and second layers of thermal insulation do not coincide with each other. The layer of thermal insulation should not go beyond the rafters, and if this happens, then an additional beam will have to be stuffed onto the rafters.
6. To fasten the insulation, a cord stretched between the nails or a crate made of slats can be used. These slats must be nailed to the rafters at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. In this case, the vapor barrier layer must be fixed before the crate is installed - due to the thickness of the slats, an air gap is provided.
7. When installing a vapor barrier, you need to make sure that the material is installed tightly. For this, the joints must be closed with two layers of adhesive tape. Particular attention should be paid to the points where the material connects to the wall and chimney... When all the structural elements are installed, you can proceed to the final stage - the installation of the skin.

Conclusion

Roof insulation is a very important part of the structure, which improves the thermal efficiency of the roof. Knowledge of how to properly lay the insulation on the roof, and the high-quality performance of all work will create a reliable and high-quality structure that will perform its functions throughout the entire period of operation.

Insulation of the roof from the inside is carried out not only in order to arrange an additional room in the attic, but also for maximum preservation of heat throughout the house.

If the building has mansard roof, then the insulation is carried out directly on the roof itself, which is for the future room not only a roof, but also walls. If the structure or has one slope, then most often the thermal insulation is arranged in the attic floor.

The third version of thermal insulation measures is used in regions with a harsh climate, where both the roof itself and the ceiling are insulated from the inside.

Types of insulation used

The modern building materials market offers a lot types of insulation, of which you can choose a suitable one for any thermal insulation work.

• Bulk materials are sawdust, expanded clay of different fractions, slag, dry leaves or needles. These heaters are used for filling in the attic floor, and they perfectly protect the lower rooms of the house from the penetration of cold, but they will not be able to make the attic itself warm.

• Mineral wool different types, expanded polystyrene, penoflex and polyurethane foam are suitable for insulating both attic floors and.

All these materials are light enough, so they will not weigh down the structure of the roof and the whole house, but they will make it much warmer. The technologies for installing thermal insulation materials differ from each other, so it is worth considering some of them.

It should be noted that with the advent of auxiliary materials that facilitate the work process and are aimed at protecting the thermal insulation itself from external influences and preserving their performance, it has become easier to carry out the installation process.

Video: mineral wool is an excellent material for roof insulation

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Vapor barrier coatings

One of these materials is vapor barrier film. It is designed to protect wooden structures and insulation from exposure to vapors arising from temperature drops and leading to condensation. Excessive moisture provokes the appearance of mold, which destroys the structure of the tree, reduces the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation and contributes to the appearance unpleasant odor in room.

The vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the roof structure or floor structure prior to the installation of insulation materials.

When using a vapor barrier film in a heated room, it is placed only under the finishing layer of the walls.

To protect structures that are exposed to high temperatures on one side, and on the other - low, the vapor barrier must be located on both sides. Such structures include wooden attic floors and roofs when insulated. Concrete slabs do not require the installation of vapor barrier materials.

The protective film can have different thicknesses and be of different types - a conventional nonwoven material or a foil membrane. In the case of using the latter on the structure of the attic floor, it is laid down with foil, since it reflects the heat rising from below to the ceiling, thereby preventing it from escaping outside. The sheets of material are fastened together with foil tape, which helps to create a tight coating.

Prices for different types of insulating films

Insulating films

Insulation of the attic floor

Any insulation measures are best carried out in the process of building a house, but, unfortunately, very often they do it only when they feel the winter cold.

Before falling asleep or laying insulation, you need to preparatory work... This is especially important if you use fine expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

• Previously, when there were no modern auxiliary materials on sale, the plank attic floor was prepared as follows:

- Boards, fixed to the floor beams, were thoroughly coated with a solution of clay or lime, having an average consistency in density. These natural materials create a good airtightness of the floor, but at the same time, they allow the whole structure to "breathe".

- After the clay or lime had completely dried, the insulation works were carried out. Previously, this was mainly used slag, sawdust, dry leaves or a mixture of these materials. They fell asleep between the beams on prepared boards.

It should be noted that the old traditional method is quite reliable, and therefore some builders even prefer it to the modern one to this day.

• In modern construction, a special vapor barrier film is mainly used for flooring under insulation. Its canvases are laid completely over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe attic with an overlap of 15–20 cm, deepening between the floor beams and fixing them to boards and beams. It is recommended to glue the canvases together with construction tape.

The film will become an additional obstacle on the way out of the premises of the house for heat through the ceiling, since the heated air, going upnot finding a way out, it will go down and stay inside the house.

• Further, insulating material is poured onto the film, mineral wool is laid, expanded clay is poured, or the openings between the beams are filled with ecowool. You can also use the insulation used earlier - slag or sawdust.

• To avoid cold bridges across wooden beams, they also need to fix a layer of thin insulation.

• From above insulation material another layer of vapor barrier is laid, in the same way as before - with an overlap. This layer of film is fixed to the floor beams with slats, which are often called counter-battens.
• A covering of boards or thick plywood is laid on top.

Sometimes the vapor barrier can be fixed from inside the room to wooden ceiling, but in this case it will need to be finished, for example, with plasterboard plates. They will level the ceiling and become another additional insulation layer.

Insulation of roof slopes

When insulating roof slopes, as well as when insulating floors, they are used mineral wool and expanded polystyrene, but mineral wool in this case it is preferable, since it has practically zero flammability.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to use foam, then it is recommended to purchase an extruded version. Although it has a slightly higher thermal conductivity, it is not flammable, which is very important for wooden structures.

To insulate the roof slopes, use different systems, but they always contain a layer of vapor barrier material, insulation, waterproofing and counter-lattice.

1. This diagram shows one of the options for the insulation "pie". It is used in roof construction and roofing decking.

• It is laid on the rafter system. Usually, for this layer, polyethylene is used, which has a high density (more than 200 microns thick) - it will also protect the roof not only from moisture, but from wind penetration under it. The film is laid with an overlap of 20 ÷ 25 cm and fixed to the rafters with staples and a stapler.
• On top of the film, a counter-rail with a thickness of 5 ÷ 7 mm is fixed on each rafter. It is necessary so that the roofing material does not adhere directly to the waterproofing film, and there is a small distance between them for air circulation.
• Further, if the roof slopes are covered with soft roofing material, it is necessary to lay plywood on top of the counter rails. In the case when slate or other rigid sheet material is used, a crate is arranged instead of plywood, the width between its slats is calculated according to the length of the sheets of roofing material.
• When the lathing is ready, the roof is covered with the chosen covering.

After that, you can proceed to the insulation measures that are carried out from the inside, that is, from the attic room.

• Mats of mineral wool or other insulation are placed between the rafters. They should fit as tightly as possible between the elements of the wooden structure. Mats are installed starting from the bottom, gradually rising to the ridge. Insulation should be the same thickness as the width of the rafters or slightly less her, by about 10 ÷ 15 mm.
• The laid insulation is tightened with a vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the rafters with slats. The film is also overlapped and glued with construction tape.

Final stage - decorative finishing attic walls

• Further, if the attic space is equipped for a living room, then the entire surface is sheathed with plasterboard or clapboard. In addition, in this case, in addition to the walls and ceiling, the floors are also insulated, that is, the attic floor.

2. Another option may be a thicker insulation "cake", which is also laid immediately when installing the roof.

• In this case, a waterproofing windproof film is also laid on the rafter system.
• A crate for the roofing material is arranged on top of it.
• Further from the side of the attic, between the rafters, lay the first a layer of insulation, which should be equal to the width of the rafters.
• Then transverse slats are stuffed onto the rafters at a distance from each other equal to the width of the next layer of insulation. In this case, a thinner insulation is used. Its thickness must be equal to the thickness of the stuffed cross-members.
• After that comes a vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the slats with brackets.
• The interior trim material is then attached to the slats.

If the roof is insulated in an already built house, where the roof covering is fixed, then a vapor barrier is fixed to the rafters from the attic side with brackets, and only after that the insulation is laid. Further, the process is the same as in the previous versions.

Insulation of the roof from the inside with polyurethane foam

Insulation with polyurethane foam takes place differently than bulk materials or mats of mineral wool and foam.

This method of thermal insulation has recently become more and more popular and is suitable for both ordinary attics and the attic, which will later become an additional room.

If the attic is ventilated, and a living space will not be arranged in it, then only the attic floor is insulated. For this, it is recommended to moisten the boards and beams for better adhesion, and a thin layer of polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the wet surface between the beams. After it has foamed, increased in volume and solidified, if necessary, another layer is applied. Such insulation will be quite enough to keep the house warm, since the foam penetrates into all the cracks and closes them hermetically.

If the attic allows for its height to arrange a room on it, or the attic is an attic superstructure to the house, in addition to overlapping with polyurethane foam, the roof slopes are also insulated.

Spraying starts from the bottom of the structure, gradually rising to the ridge. Foam is sprayed between the rafters, and its lower layers, rising and solidifying, will be the reference for the next upper applied levels.

A similar or loft space creates a completely sealed, unventilated space. Polyurethane foam will retain heat well indoors in winter time and will not allow the attic to overheat on hot summer days. However, ventilation should still be provided, since the room must necessarily receive air flow.

This type of thermal insulation has the following advantages over other heaters:

• The polyurethane foam coating has no joints or seams throughout the entire area to be insulated.
• Achieved significant reduction in temperature differences in the attic and rooms on the lower floors.
• The building receives reliable protection from low and high temperaturesaffecting the house outside.
• This method of insulation shows a high payback in a very short time, due to the reduction of heating costs due to the low thermal conductivity of the sprayed material.
• When spraying polyurethane foam directly onto the roof, it receives additional rigidity and strength, since the leveling coating forms a reliable connection with the entire roof structure. At the same time, the polyurethane foam layer does not significantly increase the roof weight.
• Convenience application - foam closes everything hard to reach places roofs and ceilings, penetrating into all large and small holes and cracks, expanding and sealing walls and floors.
• Polyurethane foam is highly resistant to moisture, to the appearance any forms of biological life, high and low temperatures, prevents the occurrence and development of wood decay processes.
• Foam provides not only excellent thermal insulation to the premises, but also well insulates from extraneous noise from the outside.
• Polyurethane foam does not shrink, crumple or soften.
• The insulation has a fairly long service life, which is about 30 years.
• The material does not emit substances toxic to the human body and unpleasant odors.

The disadvantages of sprayed insulation include the following factors:

• The toxicity of the material during its application, so you need to work with the use of protective equipment.

Non-cured polyurethane foam is quite toxic, so that all work is carried out with mandatory protective equipment for the skin, eyes and respiratory organs

• Polyurethane foam is susceptible to negative impact ultraviolet rays, therefore, after applying the insulation, it must be covered with a finishing material, for example, clapboard, plywood or drywall.
• For installation works for insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to have special expensive equipment. True, if you have the skills to work with this material, then the equipment can be rented. But in the case when this work is unfamiliar, it is better not to risk it, but to invite specialists with equipment to spray the material.

Video: spraying polyurethane foam on the roof slopes from the inside

Insulation of the attic and roof is necessary for buildings located in most Russian regions, therefore, this process should not be postponed "until later", but it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation work at the stage of building a house. Excluding the method of spraying polyurethane, all other insulation measures can be carried out independently, observing the technology of work. If you enlist the help of a friend, then the roof insulation can well be done in a few days.