Plasterboard ceiling installation - useful recommendations. Plasterboard suspended ceiling DIY plasterboard ceilings

28 September, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (foundation laying, wall construction, roof construction, etc.). Internal construction work (laying of internal communications, rough and final finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer technology, programming.

Today I will talk about how to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling. In my opinion, this is one of the pretty simple ways its arrangement. The instructions below are understandable even for the most inexperienced novice builders.

Using it, you can do all the work yourself, saving on the wages of builders. And since the price of the material itself is not so high, the cost of the entire project will be quite affordable.

Ceiling arrangement and necessary materials

Structurally, the plasterboard ceiling is a frame that is attached to the walls and ceiling of the room, and then sheathed with gypsum board, after which it is made out decorative materials... The frame can be single-level and multi-level.

If you have not made drywall suspended ceilings with your own hands before, I advise you to stay on the first option. It is about him that will be discussed further.

To construct a single-level frame, you need galvanized ceiling profiles PP (CD) 60 by 27 mm and PPN (UD) 28 by 27 mm. To connect them together, self-tapping screws for metal and single-level connectors ("crabs") are used.

I will hang the profiles from the ceiling on U-shaped brackets ("pawns"). You can replace them with spring hangers. The brackets and profiles will be fixed to the walls with screws and plastic dowels.

I recommend using drywall 9.5 mm thick, 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. If you are going to sheathe a room with elevated level humidity (bathroom, toilet), you need to buy a moisture-resistant green gypsum board. In all other cases, standard brown (grayish) will do.

If you follow the tips listed above, you will achieve the optimal combination of strength and weight. The normal value is 13 kg per 1 square meter ceiling.

As for the tools, you will need:

perforator for making holes in the floor slab and enclosing walls;
screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws;
scissors for metal for cutting profiles;
laser or water level for marking;
drywall plastering tools.

The very process of installing gypsum board on the ceiling consists of only three stages:

Beginning of work

So, before making a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands, it is necessary to properly prepare the floor and develop a project for the future structure.

Surface preparation

I want to say right away that the suspended ceiling perfectly hides all the defects of the floor slab. Therefore, the preparation work will not be voluminous. Their main task is to ensure reliable fastening of the frame to the floor slab and walls.

To do this, I usually do the following:

Dismantling the old finish. You need to strip off old wallpaper or paint to a layer of putty or plaster. By the way, if the paint on the ceiling does not fall off, but holds very firmly, it is also not necessary to scrape it all off. It is enough to remove damaged areas that may crumble.

Repairing floor slabs. Before installing the gypsum board, it is necessary to repair the defects of the reinforced concrete ceiling slab. To do this, using a repair cement mortar or polyurethane polyurethane foam large gaps and cracks need to be repaired.

If you find areas with exposed reinforcement, then before sealing it is necessary to clean the metal of rust, coat it with a rust converter, and after the latter has dried, seal the cracks.

Dirt surface.This operation removes dust from the ceiling slab. If you are going to make a ceiling in a room with high humidity, it is better to take a primer with antiseptic properties, designed to work on a mineral base.

I mount engineering Communication. Before installing the ceiling, you must take care of the installation of engineering systems. Usually we are talking about ventilation ducts and electrical cables. The first I recommend doing from plastic pipes... And place the wires in protective corrugations, which will protect them from fire in the event of a short circuit.

It is not necessary to bring the ceiling to the ideal and level it strictly according to the level. After all, this will be done using a frame and plasterboard sheets.

Project development

Now let's get down to creating a project for the future ceiling. Again, if you are going to design a complex multi-level ceiling, I recommend using specialized computer applications for this. They will also calculate the amount of materials required.

In the case I am describing, the ceiling will be one-level, without complex zigzags and steps. Therefore, you can calculate it yourself. I will give an approximate calculation scheme for a room measuring 3 by 6 meters:

First you need to determine the perimeter of the room - ours will be equal to 3 + 3 + 6 + 6 \u003d 18 meters. This is exactly how much the UD ceiling guide profile will need. Naturally, take with a small margin, in case something goes wrong. In addition, they will need to be invested in each other, which also needs to be taken into account.
When measuring a room, measure all walls. There are times when opposite walls are not equal to each other. Then take a higher value.
Next, you need to calculate the amount of the CD supporting ceiling profile. In my case, it will be attached at a distance of 50 cm from each other across the room. Accordingly, 600/50 cm \u003d 12 pieces. This is for the case when the gypsum board will be attached along the room. The length of the sheet is 2500 mm, that is, its edges will fall just on the supporting parts.
If you will lay sheets of plasterboard across the room, the distance between the bearing profiles should be 60 cm (since the width of the sheet is 120 cm). Then 600/60 \u003d 10 pieces.
At the next stage, the number of U-shaped suspensions is calculated. They are attached to the bearing profile at a distance of 60 cm. The length of the profile in our case is 3 meters. That is, 300/60 \u003d 5 suspensions. We have 12 profiles. That means 12 * 5 \u003d 60 suspensions.
Remember that the first and last hangers must be fixed at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, and the rest must be fixed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
You also need to calculate the number of crabs. You will need 24 of them, that is, twice as many as CD carrier profiles.

The number of screws and dowels can also be counted, but I do not advise you to stop there. Buy a box of self-tapping screws for fastening profiles, for screwing drywall and screws with dowels for mounting the frame on the walls.

Step-by-step installation guide for gypsum board

Sequencing:

Doing markup... First you need to arm yourself with a laser or bubble level and beat off a line on the enclosing walls of the room, which will be located strictly horizontally. In my case, the floor slab has ledges-ribs, so I drew the line a little lower. You can draw a straight line or outline it with a dotted line as shown in the photo below.

These marks will later serve as a guideline for fixing the UD ceiling track profiles.

Next, I take an ordinary metal drill with a diameter of 7 mm and drill holes in the guide parts, which will be needed in the future to install screws with dowels.

The holes must be drilled in the profile at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The extreme ones should be at a distance of 10 cm from the profile cut. I make the holes in the profile in advance so that I do not drill the part with a drill with a victorious tip (which is intended for concrete walls).

I mount the guide profiles on the walls... To do this, I attach the profile to the drawings (lines) made on the wall, after which I drill holes in the walls through the pre-drilled holes using a punch. The drill diameter in this case is 6 mm.

After that, I insert a dowel-nail into the hole made in the wall (of course, with the attached profile). He is plastic part with a thickening at the end where the metal core is driven in.

Dowel size 6 x 50 mm. The dowel is driven in simply with a hammer. If you make any mistake during installation, you can then unscrew it with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

At the corners of the room, the guide profiles are nested into each other, after which the joint is reinforced with a small self-tapping screw. If you need to splice two elements (if its length is not enough for the whole room), you just need to nest two guides one inside the other. In this place, it is imperative to drill a through hole and drive another dowel-nail into the wall.

Installing galvanized bearing profiles.As I already mentioned, in my case, the gypsum boards will be laid along the room. Accordingly, the distance between adjacent parts will be 50 cm. You need to take a tape measure and mark the walls, placing the risks at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Then you need to adjust the profiles to the width of the room (if they are already). To do this, I recommend measuring the profile of the desired length (5 mm less than the distance between the walls), then using scissors to make cuts along the side shelves, and then bending and unbending the part just break it off. Then the top ones need to be cut slightly diagonally, as shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is such that the length of one part of the profile is not enough, it is necessary to use two products, splicing them together with a connector that can be bought in the store. If you don't have one at hand, you can make it yourself. The scheme is as follows:

i cut off a 20 cm piece from the CD part (slightly less);
after that I cut off two short shelves, which are located along the lateral sides of the profile;
then this part is bent exactly in the middle along the central groove so that the profile looks like the Latin letter W, This is clearly seen in the illustration below.

Then you need to insert the cut profiles into the guides. To do this, you need to place one end, then take the part diagonally and insert it into the opposite guide. In this case, the products should be located so that their center (it is visible on the profile) is exactly aligned with the mark on the wall.

If you have more than 50 cm between the last supporting bar or the wall of the room, you need to divide the remaining distance in half and install an additional profile in this place for strength. But keep in mind that the CD-parts must be located so that the edges of the gypsum board are necessarily placed on them.

After you have placed all the profiles on the guides according to the markings, they must be fixed with self-tapping screws. I use one screw for each profile on each side. Self-tapping screws can be screwed in with a screwdriver.

I install the cross members of the bearing profiles.Here, too, I'll start with the markup. Considering that I will put a drywall sheet along, it is necessary to measure a distance of 1200 mm from one of the walls and make the appropriate risks on each bearing profile. For this, it is better to use a marker, since the pencil draws poorly and is poorly visible on galvanized steel. You get the following markup.

To connect two elements of the frame at the same level, a special part is needed, which is called a "crab" in common people. It looks like this. It has special latches, thanks to which it is securely fixed to the CD profile.

These crabs need to be inserted into the already installed parts, guided by the pre-applied marks. To avoid longitudinal sliding of the bracket, it is advisable to fix it to the carrier with a self-tapping screw. For this, the parts have the necessary holes. One screw is enough.

Then crossbars are attached to the crabs. To do this, you need to cut the required number of parts (their length should correspond to the distance between the bearing profiles), and then fix them with two self-tapping screws. The outermost crossbeams are inserted into the supporting profile installed on the wall. The result will be the structure shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is more than 2.6 meters, you will need as many rows of transverse elements as there will be gypsum board joints. In my case, these are two rows. Everything for you will depend on the perimeter of the room. But the installation principle will remain the same.

It so happens that you miscalculated the number of crabs, and the brackets were not enough for mounting. Then you can fix several parts without them. To do this, you need to correctly cut the guide profile:

first you need to measure the profile, the length of which will be 40 mm longer than the distance between the guides;
then the side shelves should be cut in such a way that tongues are formed from the wide edge (their edges must also be cut off at a slight angle).

Then this part can be simply screwed onto the CD profile using one self-tapping screw. You need to orientate along the central stiffener. Basically, by following this advice, you can completely stop using crabs. This will not affect the strength in any way.

I fix the frame on the concrete floor.Without this, the drywall structure will not hold securely, since its length is quite large. For fixation, U-shaped perforated suspensions are used, which the craftsmen call "pawns".

The hangers should hold the long bearing profiles at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Therefore, you must first make marks on the details with a marker at the same distance from each other.

Above the marked places, you need to make two holes to secure the bracket. In order not to be mistaken, you can attach a bracket, and then make holes. As a result, it will turn out like this:

To fix the suspensions themselves, you can use dowel-nails or anchor bolts. In my case, I use screws that I screw into dry birch chops. This is due to the fact that the thickness of the floor slab in this room is not enough to reliably drive the dowels there. But this is only a feature of this particular installation.

Then I screw on the suspensions. In my case, the distance between the ceiling and the frame is such that you have to use two suspensions, placing them on either side of the supporting profile. But, as a rule, one suspension will do. Then you just need to bend its petals at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the floor slab.

Mounting is done as indicated in the photo:

Remember that you first need to fix all hangers to the ceiling without attaching them to the supporting profiles. Before screwing the brackets directly to the frame, the latter must be aligned relative to the horizontal, since now the profiles sag a little under their weight.

Now I'll tell you how you can easily align this whole structure:

First, you should raise the entire frame in the center so that it is obviously higher required level, and fix it in this state to the suspensions using self-tapping screws in two or three places. This will be a temporary attachment, which will then be removed.
Then you need to fasten the cord. A screw with a cord attached to it is twisted into a guide near one wall, then it is pulled across the room and screwed to the screw on the opposite guide profile. If you raised the ceiling (as described in the previous paragraph), then a small gap forms between the rope and the frame.

If you do not want to raise the ceiling, you can fasten the thread from the top of the guide profile. Then the ceiling will sag and still there will be a gap required for alignment.
After all the threads are stretched, you can align the profile along the landmark and fix it on the suspensions. Be sure to leave a gap of about 1 mm so that the already aligned parts do not disturb the plane formed by the tensioned ropes.

This surface leveling process takes up most of the time it takes to install a ceiling. But it must be done carefully and without haste, otherwise you will get a curved surface.

One more point. If after fastening you still have protruding parts of the brackets, you just need to bend them. Cutting is optional.

I carry out insulation of the ceiling surface.You can also omit this stage if ceiling insulation is not required. But in my case, the floor slab is too thin and requires thermal insulation. In addition, the material used will play the role of a soundproofing layer.

As thermal insulation, I will use foil foil 4 mm thick. An additional reflective heat shield will be effective enough so that thermal energy is not wasted through the ceiling.

The difficulty in my case consists in securing the penofol, since I will not attach it to the profile with a stapler or screws. The way out for me was shoe glue.

By the way, you can replace it with liquid nails. Well, another alternative is the use of double-sided tape.

I missed the bottom surface of the profiles with glue, and then those areas of the foam that will be glued. After that, he completed the installation of insulation. Remember that you need to glue it so that the foil side is towards the living room. All this is clearly seen in the photo.

I fix the drywall sheets on the profile.It is best to do this with a companion who will hold the sheets while securing. But I will tell you further how you can still manage only on your own.

In this case, you need two T-shaped supports (or mops) to work. Their length should be such that in an upright position they practically abut against the surface of the ceiling frame (even without taking into account the thickness of the gypsum plasterboard). Support simplest design shown in the photo.

Here's how to use this mop:

First, you need to install the mop against the wall so that there is a gap between it and the ceiling where you can place gypsum plasterboard by thickness.
Then you need to take a sheet of drywall and lean it on this support.
After that, you should grab the sheet by the opposite (lower) edge and lift it to the ceiling. In this case, the opposite edge should fit tightly into the wall and be fixed between the frame and the short part of the mop.
Having lifted it from the floor, you need to slip a second mop under the bottom and bring the sheet to the level of the previously made frame.
As a result, the drywall sheet will be pressed against the ceiling in the way shown in the photo.

Then you can take a stepladder and fix the sheet on the frame with drywall screws. They need to be screwed along the edge of the sheet and into those areas where the profiles pass under the sheet. The distance between adjacent self-tapping screws should be 30-40 cm.

When screwing in the self-tapping screw, be sure to hold the gypsum board nearby with your hand. Because when screwing the self-tapping screw into the profile, the sheet may slightly move away from the surface. There is a danger that it will collapse from your props.

After screwing, the screw head should not rise above the sheet level. It needs to be drowned a little deeper, but at the same time not completely destroy the sheet of cardboard that protects the gypsum from destruction.

All other sheets are installed in the same way.

Finishing the ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to putty the places where the screw heads are visible, as well as the joints of the drywall sheets (fiberglass mesh is usually laid along the seams - serpyanka).

And the further design depends on you. The most common option is puttying and subsequent painting.

Summary

I hope the information provided is enough so that, relying on it, you can independently design a plasterboard ceiling. Additional Tips are available in the video in this article.

You can leave your opinion on the information provided in the comments.

If you want your room to have a beautiful and perfectly flat ceiling, try making it yourself. Show your imagination!

For the implementation of the most complex and unusual ideas, drywall is perfect.

It can be used to collect different types ceiling coverings, among which the following designs are especially popular:

double ( perfect solution to obtain sound insulation properties);
bunk (ideal for spacious rooms with high walls);
curly (allows you to give the interior dynamics, is used for additional decoration of rooms);
tension (alternative for those who do not want to work with joints).

Drywall belongs to the category of universal building materialswidely used for finishing horizontal, vertical and inclined surfaces.

The construction of gypsum plasterboard (GKL) includes two layers of thick cardboard, between which there is a core. The main ingredient of the internal filler is a hardened gypsum solution, which may contain various modification additives.

Gypsum plasterboard, unlike other similar building materials, has moisture resistant qualities, relatively low weight and a variety of sizes, making it ideal for roughing and finishing ceilings.

With the help of gypsum board, you can design both a classic single-level ceiling with lighting, and install a two-level ceiling with hidden light elements.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall

Correct work with drywall is carried out in strict accordance with the prescribed technical standards, requirements and safety rules.

Specialists in the field overhaul and construction distinguish the following positive traits material:

Versatility of application. Suitable for finishing heated and unheated premises for various purposes (living rooms, bathrooms, household and garage outbuildings, loggias)
Soundproofing effect, combined with good air exchange and minimal heat loss - gypsum ceilings are popular in private houses and country cottages with roofs made of corrugated board or metal tiles.
Ease of embedding spot and basic lighting fixtures. Over the gypsum boards you can discreetly hold electric wires, telephone lines, ventilation systems and other engineering communications, without harming the aesthetic component of the issue.

To the complexities of installation works the need for high-quality processing of butt seams belongs. Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard requires the active participation of at least two people. When assembling a rack box for a ceiling, errors in calculations are unacceptable, even small flaws can lead to cracks and deformation of cardboard sheets.

Required materials for the assembly of a plasterboard ceiling structure

To create a suspended ceiling from gypsum board you will need:

drywall sheets (their type is selected taking into account the individual technical specifications and room format);
metal profile (with its help, a skeleton skeleton is created for a future structure);
ceiling wedge anchor (allows you to quickly and reliably attach a metal profile to the ceiling);
construction knife with replaceable blades (for cutting gypsum board into the necessary fragments);
cordless screwdriver and self-tapping screws with a press washer (for attaching drywall to the profile);
perforator (to create holes for anchor bolts);
expansion dowels;
special tape for sealing gypsum board;
construction narrow spatula;
putty for subsequent finishing.

Preliminary calculations, marking and surface preparation

Before you start sheathing the ceiling, you need to determine the lowest zone of the rough ceiling slab in room. From it it is necessary to note the distance in height at which it is planned to mount the future structure. This is required in order for the plasterboard ceiling frame to be installed correctly.

According to the accepted standards, the gap between the ceiling base and the suspended plasterboard ceiling should be at least 5 cm.In cases where the ceiling space acts as a kind of box for masking engineering networks and large-sized lighting elements, level decorative ceiling must be lowered by at least another 15-20 cm.

From the obtained point, it is necessary to draw an even continuous line, thus capturing the entire perimeter room space... The easiest way to do this is using a building level (for a large area, a laser is suitable, for small rooms a bubble is enough).

The next step is to apply construction markings in places where it is planned to install a profile skeleton. The distance between the longitudinal profiles must be a multiple of the width of the plasterboard sheet. Standard width material is 120 cm, therefore ideal option the installation of metal structures with a distance of 40 cm is considered: two guides are fixed at the edges, one in the middle. Suspension points must also be noted in advance. Their interval step should be between 40 and 50 cm.

An example of markup is shown in the photo.

At the final stage of the preparatory work, it is required to mark each plasterboard sheet in accordance with the approved installation plan. For more markup details, see the video at the bottom of this page.

Creation of a reliable metal frame for a plasterboard ceiling

Ceiling production begins with the installation of the supporting base. The metal framing guide includes 5 main points.

On the prepared line, holes are drilled at the previously indicated points. A UD-profile is supplied to the rough ceiling, which is fixed with dowels-nails.

Installation of suspensions is in progress. Their main purpose is to fasten the main longitudinal metal profiles. They are not required for cross members. Suspensions are fastened with ordinary dowel-nails. If voids are found, it is rational to use a ceiling wedge anchor.

The next step is to install a CD type profile. Before hanging them, it is necessary to determine a flat horizontal plane that runs over the entire area of \u200b\u200bwork. To do this, just pull the nylon thread.

The longitudinal CD-profile is initially fixed between the opposite UD-parts (specifically, it is inserted into the grooves specially designed for this purpose). Then it is sequentially mounted into prepared suspensions. The free ends of the suspensions are bent vertically downward, completely wrap around the profile and are fixed with small universal screws.

The final stage of creating the frame involves the installation of transverse profiles, which are recommended to be located at a distance of half a meter from each other.

The finished frame must be gently pulled down on each side. This technology allows you to align all suspensions along the same length and helps to identify possible irregularities in the horizontal plane of the frame.

Basic principles of working with drywall

Before starting the installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling, you need to think over and organize the overhead space. All electrical wires and cables are placed in flexible corrugated tubes and fixed with metal brackets to the rough finish. On the gypsum board, the zones for the location of the lamps are indicated, the corresponding holes are cut along the contour of the outlined figure.

Step-by-step instructions on how to fix drywall are as follows:

Cut the sheets for easy fastening.
Seal the metal profile with tape for additional shock absorption and sound insulation.
Attach the sheets along the edges to the frame. The distance from the edge to the fastening point should be about 2 cm. The step between the screws should be 10-15 cm.
According to the installation rules, panels are first attached that are closely adjacent to the corner sections of the walls. Next, you need to fix the remaining sheets around the entire perimeter of the room. The central elements of the ceiling structure are attached last.

After the completion of the installation work, the finished suspended ceiling must "settle" within 48 hours. Then you can proceed to the finishing. A primer is used to process the joints, after which the assembly seams need to be putty (for this purpose it is perfect gypsum mix the Knauf trademark).

It is recommended to use a reinforcing mesh to give additional rigidity and strength to the finish.

To do this, it is necessary to apply 60% of the putty, drown the mesh with the mixture that has not yet hardened, smooth out the irregularities with a spatula, and fill the remaining volume of the docking recess with a second layer of putty. The frame on the plasterboard ceiling is ready.

How to find a profile under drywall?

In order not to overshoot and hit the fixing equipment exactly in metal carcass, we recommend using powerful neodymium magnets.

With it, you can easily find a rack, guide profile or auxiliary metal lintels under the plasterboard surface. The search for a profile ceiling frame is necessary in order to hang lighting or other decorative elements of the interior.

In the event of an error in the calculations, the entire structure will sooner or later collapse to the floor, so it is very important to determine the correct point for fasteners. For this you need:

Choose an approximate place for the future attachment.
Place a thin sheet of paper or cloth on the ceiling to prevent the magnet from scratching the surface.
Place a neodymium magnet on the fabric and start slowly driving it along the intended search area.
If a magnetic reaction occurs, mark the spot with a pencil.

Please note that for the most efficient search for a metal profile, it is better to use a large magnet. It is capable of covering a larger radius at one time, which means that metal detection will not take much time.

Video tutorial on the topic: "How to make a level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands"

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with useful video material that will visually assess the upcoming volume of work, as well as deal with all the nuances of the device of single-level and multi-level ceilings.

The device of a plasterboard ceiling requires knowledge about the material from A to Z. Having studied the information on installation, feel free to start installing the gypsum board with your own hands. Conduct competent device constructions without special skills are possible, the main thing is to know how to do it. The lathing and stacking technology for single-level and multi-tiered systems is slightly different, but we will consider all possible options.

Suspended ceiling, like other cladding, requires the installation of a frame. Unlike wall decoration, metal profiles and straight hangers are used for the ceiling, which makes it possible to securely fix the system. We will tell you more about the installation below. The information is supplemented by a video, which clearly shows the installation.

Which material should you choose?

A plasterboard structure on the ceiling looks presentable if installed correctly. But long before starting work, you should decide on the class of material that will be used as facing. If the information below does not seem enough, then you can study the video, which tells in detail about the types of drywall. Now let's say a few words about each of them:

GKL. These are standard sheets. Gypsum is sheathed with gray cardboard. For the ceilings of residential premises, lightweight material with a thickness of 9.5 mm is used.
GVL. These are the so-called gypsum fiber sheets. The material is not covered with cardboard, which is different from the one described above. It is characterized by resistance to fire and hardness.
GVLV is a GVL, which is used in conditions of high humidity.

GKLO. Fire-resistant material modified by gypsum board. These sheet options are used in production.
GKLV. Plasterboard waterproof class. Such material differs in external signs - green cardboard is used for facing.
GKLVO is an improved variation of GKLV, which, in addition to the advantages of the GKLV material, is characterized by fire resistance.

In the conditions of home assembly of the ceiling, all types of material are used, except for GKLO and GKLVO. For furnishing bathrooms and kitchen area it is preferable to use GKLV due to its resistance to moisture. The drywall installation scheme in these rooms is discussed in many videos.

What is needed for the crate

The frame installation technology provides for the use metal profiles... The best options are cold-formed galvanized products with a thickness of at least 0.55 mm. If you use thinner profiles, then the plasterboard structures on the ceiling will certainly deform. More often, parts of 3 or 4 m in length are used to equip the frame. If necessary, the crate can be created with your own hands from elements of other sizes.

Note! To facilitate installation, the manufacturer provides holes for dowels on the profileUD... If it happened that a product was purchased without them, it will have to be drilled in the right places.

So what elements, besides profiles, are used to equip the frame?

Straight or U-shaped suspension. The purpose of the device is to mount steel profiles to overlap. If the length of the product is not enough, then you can resort to installing a spring suspension with a hook.
Crab. Represents a single-level connector. It is used for the device of cross-shaped fastening of steel elements in one horizontal plane at an angle of 90 degrees.
Corner connector. It is used to fix one piece.
Two-level retainer. Used to connect profiles on different levels. Do-it-yourself fastening with such a part is carried out crosswise. In this case, the fixation of the parts occurs strictly one under the other.

These are the most common elements for the construction of lathing. Self-tapping screws and dowels are used for fastening parts. How to perform a crate for drywall according to a simplified scheme, see the video.

Ceiling marking and preparation of a rough base

After the correct calculation of the materials, they begin to prepare the floor. Remnants are removed for reliable installation old plaster from the ceiling. The base does not need to be primed or putty, but antiseptics are recommended.

The next stage is marking. There are several rules and recommendations here that will affect the further course of installation. The first step is to determine the horizontal relative to which the installation is carried out. To do this, find the lowest corner in the room, retreat from the rough base 40-50 mm and put a mark in this place. The dance begins from this point.

Next, do it yourself on the walls with a paint cord. Alternatively, you can use a thread soaked in blue. Strictly observe the level while marking. The laser level will provide high accuracy, but in the absence of tool will fit and water.

When working, consider the following nuances:

After passing along the perimeter of the room, the line should return to the starting point. Any offsets are not allowed.
When spacing on adjacent walls, place the level both on the plane itself and in the corners.
The markings from the walls are transferred to the ceiling, where the fixation points of straight, spring or U-shaped suspensions are marked.

At the end of the work, a mesh mesh should be in front of the eye. The size of the squares depends on the selected step, but more often it is 60 x 60. Closer to the walls, the cells have other dimensions - half. You need to maintain symmetry from the opposite side. Carrying out the marking of the ceiling for installing the gypsum board, see the video at the end of the information block.

Suspension system installation

After installing the lathing, proceed to the installation of the gypsum board. The installation of suspended ceilings is done according to a strict scheme. The sheets of drywall themselves are fixed with their own hands perpendicular to the frame guide profiles. They are joined exactly in the middle of the profiles. This is done to make the system more reliable.

GKL ceiling frame

Ceiling structure diagram

Important! GKL fastening technology provides for the work of several installers. One person can damage a large sheet.

The installation scheme is not complicated. The following steps are taken:

The calculation of the amount of materials is carried out. For bunk structures and complex ceilings, sheets are taken with a margin of about 20%, and for simple ones, 10% is enough.
GKL are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. The screws are driven into the sheets so that their caps "sink" by about 2-3 mm.
The distance between the screws is 300 mm. From the corners of drywall, the indent is 10 times less.
The screws are screwed into the gypsum board with their own hands at a distance of about 1 cm from the edge of each sheet. In this case, we must not forget about the step between the screws.

Important! Screwing closer to the edge is fraught with chipping of the material. If there is an oversight, screw another screw 30-40 mm from the screw-in place of the previous one.

The installation diagram provides some nuances. First, a narrow profile is mounted in the corners of the premises. This makes fixing the drywall sheet problematic. Second, the screw-in depth of all screws should be approximately equal. This will allow you to carry out high-quality plaster of the plane with your own hands. The harness must be made from the same manufacturer. Otherwise, there may be problems with the docking of the gypsum board.

Painting works

Finishing is the final stage. A common way of facing drywall with your own hands is painting. But before that, preparatory work... For a start, get plaster. It is better to choose a building material of the plastic type. Next, apply it with a spatula to the following places:

gKL docking points;
screw-in points;
on a serpyanka, which is used to reinforce the ceiling.

After that, the entire ceiling is already processed. When plastering multi-level ceilings, pay attention to transitions to other levels and corner areas. The final touch is the application of a leveling layer, after which it is worth walking with sandpaper. Sealing tape is used at the joints of the drywall with the walls.

Only after that a layer of primer is applied to the putty. It is recommended to repeat the priming procedure to consolidate the result. Next, let the ceiling dry. After that, you can already start painting. Preference should be given to water-based or acrylic. Such compositions are not emitted into the room. harmful substances and are resistant to chemicals.

Note that the water emulsion does not interfere with the filtration of water vapor in wooden houses... Some experts consider acrylic paints to be the best. They have the advantages of being water-based, but in addition to this, the coating can be washed.

Summarizing

The scheme for the production of a suspended ceiling structure, which is described above, will allow you to create an even and neat ceiling covering. But the desired result can be achieved only if the technology is followed. In another situation, there is a risk of poor-quality installation. Installation details are covered in the video after the article.

To bring to life their most daring projects for decorating the ceiling, designers use drywall. With the technology of installing plasterboard ceilings, it is necessary to create a central flat surface that allows you to work with complex decorative elements. At the same time, the design is particularly robust and reliable.

The simplest false ceiling installation is one or two levels. The technique of creating a plasterboard ceiling of two levels will be discussed a little later. But you can familiarize yourself with some of the intricacies of installing a single-level plasterboard ceiling in the material "Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen: installation features".

Ceiling mount markings

According to the technology for installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the first thing to do is to apply the markings:

So, a perfectly flat horizontal line is applied to the walls, which will become a line of the ceiling level... To do this, use a long building level or water level (spirit level). The most acceptable length of the level is one and a half to two meters, while it should have four strips in the viewing window - two on one side of the air bubble and two on the other side. Subject to these requirements for the tool, the marking accuracy is guaranteed.
When the line is completed, its end must converge with its beginning, while the slightest shift is not allowed. When applying markings in the corner of a room using a building level, you should adhere to the rules for working with a hydro level. To do this, when marks are applied to adjacent walls, the level should be placed both on the surface of these walls and in the corners of the spacers.

Technology diagram for the installation of a plasterboard ceiling

After completing the creation of the horizontal level of the ceiling, the next step will be to mark the ceiling with the points of attachment of direct hangers. As a result, a grid with a mesh size of 600 x 600 mm should appear on the ceiling. Very often, at the edges of the room, the dimensions of the cell do not correspond to the specified 600 mm, in which case their dimensions should be reduced and made symmetrical with respect to opposite sides.

Installation of profiles for fixing gypsum board

Installation of the guide profile

The next stage of installation of a plasterboard ceiling provides for sheathing the entire perimeter of the room with guide profiles (PN). The size of such a profile is 2.7 x 2.7 cm.Of course, this process has its own characteristics:

Installation of U-shaped hangers

Installation of U-shaped suspensions is carried out according to the pre-marked markings on the rough ceiling. In this case, the interval should be within 70-100 cm, and the distance from the wall to the suspension on opposite walls should be the same.

Do not use dowel-nails for vertical fastening to fix the suspensions. We recommend using plastic dowels and screws. If the sub-ceiling is made of concrete, optimal solution will become metal dowels designed for heavy structures. However, you should be careful, since the frame dowels are also metal, but they are absolutely not suitable for this purpose.

At the joints of the guide profiles, U-shaped suspensions should be installed on both sides of the joint.

Fastening elements of the frame of the plasterboard structure to the ceiling

At the end of the process of fixing the U-shaped profiles, the next step is the installation of ceiling profiles (PP). Their parameters are 5.6 x 2.7 cm, sometimes there are dimensions of 6 x 2.7 cm.

Installation of ceiling profiles

The first thing to do when installing ceiling profiles is to fix the long profiles to the ceiling from wall to wall. Then install short cross-sections between them. In this case, the cross connections are made using a special mount.

PP is mounted from the wall and inserted into the guide profiles. Then the horizontal level of the location of the ceiling profiles is indicated (for this purpose, a level is used), and then it is fixed with a double-sided connection to the U-shaped suspension. At the same time, metal-to-metal screws (self-tapping screws) are used for such a connection.

To make your job easier, you can use the following tips:

Most rational decision, the installation of the longest profiles will be parallel to the wall with the window. Thus, you can divert attention from minor defects at the junction of the drywall sheets, which will be attached in the direction of natural light from the window.

Fastening drywall to the frame

A solid sheet of drywall (GKL) is attached transversely to long guide profiles.

The sheets are connected in the central part of the profile. For high-quality installation of gypsum board on a profile, it is recommended to work with a partner. To attach the sheets to the profile, self-tapping screws are used, while the screw is slightly "sunk" in a sheet of drywall, about two to three millimeters. The distance between the screws should be approximately 250-300 mm, and from the corners of the drywall - 30-40 mm.

In addition, the screws should be fastened no closer than 10-15mm from the edge of the drywall. When screwing in self-tapping screws, you should be extremely careful not to chip the edge of the sheet. However, if such a nuisance nevertheless happened, it is necessary to remove the screw and screw in a new one at a distance of 30-40 mm from the chip.

When attaching drywall sheets to the ceiling, you must remember the following nuances:

When installing drywall sheets, it should be remembered that there is a narrow profile in the corners of the room, and this can complicate the installation process;
For a beautiful aesthetic appearance of the plasterboard ceiling, you should adhere to simple rule: fewer edges - prettier view;
In the process of screwing in self-tapping screws, you should adhere to the same "drowning" depth at all attachment points. Such accuracy will come in handy later, at the stage of painting, it will allow them to be carried out as efficiently as possible;
To avoid unpleasant situations, such as height differences at the joints of sheets, the best option will use products from one manufacturer (for example, Knauf).

Drywall cutting technology and painting work

To carry out the marking of drywall sheets, an aluminum rule is used, which should be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contamination. If such a tool is not available, you can use a flat rail.

Marking is made on the sheet, drywall will be cut along it.
Further, an incision is made with a depth of 2-4 mm according to the rule (or rail). To do this, use a sharp construction knife so that the line is even and not interrupted.
After that, a sheet of drywall is placed on the edge of the table and breaks with a careful but confident movement. With a properly made cut, the drywall sheet will break evenly.

Drywall Cutting Instructions

There will be cardboard on the back of the sheet, you can cut it off with construction knife.
You can use a plane or # 4 or # 6 sandpaper to level the edge of the cut.

To paint the plasterboard ceiling (for familiarization with the rules for painting, read: How to paint the ceiling in the kitchen: the choice of paint and the procedure for working), you must use a masking bandage and masking net, which are used to glue the joints between drywall and the wall and joints.

The process of marking the ceiling for placing spotlights should be done before the last paint application. Doing this will help prevent smudges and help keep the light point labels visible. The final layer of paint is applied in the direction of the strongest light flow.

Technology: for painting a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the best solution would be to use a roller, this will save paint and create an even coating

The above rules for the technology of creating suspended ceilings from plasterboard will allow you to carry out high-quality installation on your own. However, this can only be achieved if all instructions and recommendations are strictly followed. Otherwise, you risk getting a curve at the exit and an unreliable ceiling that will need to be redone.

Do you want to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling on your own, but doubt that you can handle the job? Then this article is exactly what you need. In it, all the works are described in great detail so that any person can understand them. You just have to repeat the steps and you will achieve great results.

Workflow steps

To carry out the installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands, you need to know and clearly follow a certain sequence of actions.

The technology has been developed over the years and includes the following stages:

Preparation of materials and tools;
Marking the position of the guides and their fastening;
Frame construction;
Fastening drywall to the frame;
Sealing joints on the surface;
Ceiling putty and painting.

Stage 1 - preparation of materials and tools

This is the preparatory part of the work, in which you must collect everything you need. Even before purchasing everything you need, you must measure the room in which the work will be carried out, this will allow you to accurately calculate required amount materials.

First, let's figure out which elements are used to assemble a suspended plasterboard ceiling.

Material	Selection recommendations
Drywall	The most commonly used ceiling version is 9.5 mm. But you can also use wall elements 12 mm thick, their price is higher, but the surface will be more reliable. For rooms with high humidity, it is better to use a moisture-resistant version, it is easy to distinguish it by the green color of the protective paper layer. The required amount is calculated by the area of \u200b\u200bthe surface to be trimmed.
Guide elements	The number of the guide profile is calculated based on the length of the walls around the perimeter of the room. The elements are 3 meters long. Choose options made of metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm
Main Profile	The number of bearing profiles is calculated as follows: the width of the room in meters is divided by 0.4 (this is the spacing of the elements). They must also be made of metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm
Fasteners for drywall	This includes straight hangers, profile connectors, and hardware products. Of hardware, you need dowel-nails, self-tapping bugs and self-tapping screws for metal for fastening drywall
Insulation	If you need to insulate or soundproof the surface, then under the frame is laid mineral wool

If you want to ensure the best sound insulation of the structure, then a special acoustic tape is placed under the wall profile and suspensions. It dampens vibrations passing through the structure and thus reduces the noise level in the room by half.

Now let's figure out what materials the ceiling surface is leveled with:

Putty "Vetonit" is an excellent solution for leveling the ceiling

Material	Tips for choosing
Putty	Choose a composition that has high plasticity, fits well on the surface and is easy to rub. All these requirements are met by the products of the Vetonit company. I use it and have never been disappointed in the quality
Sealing compound	To strengthen the joints, you need to use high strength compounds. The most popular solution is Knauf Fugen. It is a gypsum-based mixture with high strength and crack resistance.
Primer	To strengthen the surface, it is necessary to process it special composition deep penetration. The most popular are acrylic-based options.
Serpyanka mesh	It is necessary to strengthen the joints. The most commonly used version is 45 mm wide with a self-adhesive layer.
Paint	Used for surface finishing. Use any compound suitable for application to the putty surface

Now let's figure out the tool with which we install our own plasterboard suspended ceilings:

Perforator for drilling holes for dowel-nails;
Laser or water level for marking the plane. Normal level for structural control. Roulette and pencil for measurements and marking;

Shears for metal for cutting a profile. The simplest manual option is also suitable;
Screwdriver with PH2 nozzles for screwing self-tapping screws;

You can cut drywall with an ordinary construction knife;
A container and a drill with a mixer are needed to prepare mixtures;
For application, use a narrow (10 cm) and wide (30 cm) spatulas;

To level the surface, use a trowel and sandpaper or mesh with a grain size of P150 or less;
The primer and paint are applied with a roller, abutments and hard-to-reach areas are brushed.

Stage 2 - marking the position of the wall profile and fixing it

This is the first part of the work, where the following steps are performed:

The lowest point of the ceiling slab is determined. Level suspended structure should be 50 mm below this area. If you install recessed lamps in the ceiling, then the indentation will be at least 80 mm, otherwise the equipment simply will not fit;
Then you need to make a markup around the perimeter of the room. If you work with a water level, then you need to make a mark in one corner, and then, transferring the other end to other corners, mark the entire room. After that, lines are drawn between the points. If you have a laser level, then everything is simplified: you just draw a line along the mark;

Next, the profile is cut into pieces of the required size, applied along the line, and the attachment points of the elements are marked. If there is no hole 10 cm from the edge, then it must be drilled and the location of the place for drilling on the wall must be marked. Drilling is performed with a hammer drill with a 6 mm drill. In order not to check the depth of the holes, stick electrical tape or adhesive tape on the drill as a guide;
If you will fix the profile through acoustic tape, do not forget to stick it on before installing the guide elements. The self-adhesive side is pressed against the base of the profile and glued evenly along the entire length. Do not forget to cut holes at the locations of the dowels;

The profile is attached to the surface, after which dowels are inserted into the holes. The screws are simply hammered in. At this point, the fastening can be considered complete.

Stage 3 - construction of the frame

Installation of the frame consists of the following steps:

First, you need to draw lines every 40 cm. These will be the guidelines for the location of the ceiling profiles. That is, from center to center of each element should be 40 centimeters;
According to the markings, suspensions are attached to the ceiling, they are located perpendicular to the line at a distance of 50 cm from each other. It is better to place the mount in a checkerboard pattern so that each next row is not in line with the previous one, but with an offset. You can glue under suspensions sealing tapeif you used it on wall guides;

If the length of the room is less than three meters, then the excess part of the suspensions is cut off with scissors. If the length is longer, then you need to increase the racks to the desired size. Please note that the extension is done using special connectors. They allow you to keep the ideal geometry of the racks and ensure their reliable fastening;

The profile fits neatly into the guides and is positioned in the middle of the line. After that, you need to fasten the structure on both sides with the help of self-tapping bedbugs. Two elements are screwed into each connection, it is better to use fasteners with a sharp tip;

The hangers are bent to the profile, after which you need to check the position of the element using a level. If everything is fine, then you can start mounting. Everything is easy here: on both sides it is screwed into a suitable hole with a self-tapping screw. The excess ends simply bend to the sides, they will not bother you;

Jumpers are placed if the frame is made in 60 cm increments. They are positioned every 50 cm and fixed with crabs, this is the name of the cross-shaped profile connector. The work is simple: the elements of the required size are cut and screwed to the crab with self-tapping screws;

If it is necessary to insulate the surface, then mineral wool is laid under the frame. You do not need to fix it, it will hold on perfectly anyway.

Stage 4 - fixing drywall

At this stage of installing the ceiling, you need to carry out the following work:

A chamfer is cut from the side ends of the sheets. It is better to do this in advance than to work on the ceiling later. The work is carried out with a knife, the butt is cut at an angle of 45 degrees to a distance of no more than 5 mm;

Fastening starts from any corner of the room. The work is done by three people, two hold the sheet, and one grabs it with 3.5x25 mm self-tapping screws. You will not be able to cope with the installation yourself, so be sure to involve assistants. In order not to stand and not hold the material in outstretched hands, you can use mops or knock down a similar structure from the rails;

Fastening is done every 15 cm at the edges of the sheets and every 20 cm in the middle. The distance from the edges should be at least 15 mm so as not to crush the material. Leave a gap of 2-3 mm at the junction of the drywall sheets, the same distance should be at the junction with the walls;

Remember that the screw must be correctly positioned on the surface. The cap should be recessed by 1-2 mm, and not stick out above the surface and not push the sheet. The correct location of the fasteners is shown below.

Thus, the entire surface is sheathed. Here you need to pay attention to correct location self-tapping screws on the joined sheets. It is better if they are not located opposite each other, but with an offset. Sample correct installation shown in the diagram below.

Stage 5 - sealing joints

Collecting plasterboard suspended ceilings with your own hands is still half the battle. You need to properly finish them so that the surface is perfectly flat and does not crack in a year or two. Connections of elements are the most problematic areas where cracks are most often formed.

To avoid this, it is worth strengthening them qualitatively:

First of all, you need to clean all the joints from dust. Just rub them with a dry cloth or brush them;
Then the joints are treated with a primer. The composition is applied at a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the seam. Pay special attention to the ends of the sheets, try to apply the primer so that it gets into the joint;

After the soil has dried, a serpyanka tape is glued to the seams. Everything is simple here: the material is gradually unwound and pressed against the surface. It is important that the mesh adheres over the entire area and does not stick out anywhere. You can cut it off with scissors or a knife, you should not tear the material;

A mortar for seams "Knauf Fugen" is being prepared, you do not need to do a lot of it, as it sets in half an hour. The mass is applied to the joints and pressed with a spatula to fill all the voids. Excess composition is carefully removed with a spatula, the mass should completely cover the serpyanka mesh;

The caps of the screws are also closed with small strokes. After the end of the work, neither joints nor fasteners should be visible;

After the composition has dried, it is necessary to rub the surface with a float more to remove sagging and irregularities. There is no need for special quality, it is important to remove all noticeable flaws;
Lastly, the surface is primed over the entire area. This allows you to strengthen the already applied compound and balance the absorbency of the substrate over the entire area.

Stage 6 - putty and painting

Now let's figure out how to align the plasterboard ceiling with our own hands.

The instructions for carrying out the work look like this:

First of all, a putty composition is prepared. To do this, water is poured into the container and the required amount of dry mixture is poured (the proportions are always indicated on the package). It is important to thoroughly mix the components so that you get a homogeneous mass with the consistency of thick sour cream;

Application is done from any angle. The composition is spread over the blade of a wide spatula and gently spread over the surface. The tool is held at an angle of 15 degrees to the surface and is guided with moderate pressure. Do not pay attention to the influx, they will be eliminated later. The main thing is to distribute the composition in a thin layer over the entire ceiling;

After the first layer has dried, you need to walk over the surface with a spatula and cut off the beads, if any. Your task is to remove all noticeable flaws so that they do not interfere with the final leveling of the surface;
The second coat is applied very carefully, try to level the surface as best as possible. Move the spatula in a sweeping motion. If rushes are formed somewhere, it's okay, they can be easily eliminated. It is important to level the general level of the ceiling so that there are no holes and scratches on the surface from the edge of the trowel;

After the surface has dried (and this takes about 24 hours), you can start sanding it. The work is dirty, so be sure to stock up on a respirator and goggles in advance. Sandpaper is placed on the grater and surface treatment begins section by section. You need to rub with moderate pressure in spiral movements;

The plane is checked using a light bulb or flashlight. The directional light immediately shows all the flaws, and you can easily bring out a perfectly flat surface, even if you are doing this work for the first time;

If there are flaws in some places, then the problem areas need to be putty, after which they are sanded with a float. After that, the surface can be considered fully prepared;
The ceiling is cleaned of dust with a brush or vacuum cleaner, after which a primer is applied. The composition is applied with a roller to the entire surface, this will strengthen the finishing layer and improve paint adhesion;

Painting is done after the soil has completely dried. Depending on the color, it may be necessary to apply 2-3 coats of the composition for an even color.