Plasterboard single-level suspended ceiling: production in stages. Do-it-yourself single-level ceiling Installation of a single-level plasterboard ceiling frame

Surely every owner of an apartment or private house dreams of unusual interior, because you really want to surprise your guests with your impeccable taste and original design solutions. One of these "chips" will be single-level ceiling from drywall.Such a simple option is a classic and at the same time available to everyone with the possibility of decorating a living room, nursery, study or bedroom.

Features:

In fact, there are a lot of reasons for installing a ceiling covering made of gypsum plasterboard: someone does not want to see a "curved" surface overhead, someone needs to reduce the dimensions of the room by lowering the ceiling, and someone dreams of beautiful, modern built-in lamps. When making a choice in favor of a single-level or multi-level plasterboard ceiling, keep in mind that at a low height or in a small room, it is worth stopping at the first option, since complex structures will be inappropriate in such a room and can visually reduce its size.

When installing a single-level plasterboard ceiling, you can use both built-in spotlights and classic chandeliers. You can also beat the option of creating stars on the ceiling using luminescent paint. They will be invisible during the day, but in the evening and at night they will effectively decorate the interior, adding originality and mystery to it.

Benefits

More and more people have recently been choosing exactly the options for a drywall ceiling and there are many explanations for this. The advantages of this design are great:

• environmental friendliness and safety of the material;
• lack of synthetic and other odor;

• leveling the surface;
• ease of processing with an improvised tool (knife);
• ease of installation;
• high heat and sound insulation characteristics;
• fire resistance;
• variety of designs;
• the possibility of installing lamps;
• a harmonious combination of practicality, beauty and functionality.

Such a ceiling:

• hides flaws;
• masks communications;
• not afraid of mechanical influences;
• non-toxic when heated.

There are several varieties of gypsum board sheets that can be used for a single-level ceiling, in most cases, craftsmen choose standard or moisture-resistant options. Plasterboard ceilings can be single-level, multi-level with complex shapes and all kinds of lamps, or combined with stretch canvases. Backlit designs are especially popular.

Using the backlight

The backlight mounted in a plasterboard ceiling can be open or hidden. For open lighting, it is necessary to provide holes in the ceiling or a suspension for a chandelier. Hidden lighting is located in special niches. Thanks to this, the lighting is very soft, diffuse, mysterious.

Popular types of lighting for gypsum plasterboard ceilings:

• conventional incandescent lamps;
• duralight;
• neon lights;
• neon lights;
• classic chandelier;
• fluorescent lighting.

Spotlights or a standard chandelier will be the most appropriate in a single-level design.

• For mounting spotlight marking is made, and then holes are cut. The advantages of this type of lighting include original design and ease of installation without additional involvement of specialists. Disadvantages: the need to redo the wiring, not very intense light, but at the same time quite high energy costs.

• Advantages chandeliers: Simple and quick installation process without reworking the wiring. Designers choose this lighting option, as a rule, for interior decoration in classic or baroque style. That being said, if you use energy saving lamps, your energy bills will not be so ruinous.

The disadvantages of this type of lighting can be attributed only to the fact that a weighty chandelier sometimes "steals" space and visually reduces the height of the ceiling, so it is not recommended to use it in small rooms.

Installation

Start the installation of the ceiling with measurements with a tape measure, visually transferring the sketch of the room to a sheet of paper according to the calculations obtained. When carrying out repair and construction work, make sure that the room is warm enough, at least 15 degrees. And if you have started repairing the entire room, proceed with the installation of the ceiling after leveling and processing the walls, but leave the painting work for last.

To make your ceiling durable and of high quality, you should pay special attention to the storage of drywall. The purchased gypsum board is kept at room temperature for at least a day. At the same time, pay attention to the fact that there are no temperature jumps and drops in humidity in the room, this may affect the quality of the drywall. Store sheets of plasterboard exclusively in a horizontal position, while avoiding bending.

Before installing the backlight, the plasterboard structure itself is being installed. First, a frame made of a metal profile is fixed, while the necessary holes or niches for lighting are thought out. If you have building skills, you can fix the gypsum board to the ceiling yourself. Or invite a team of professionals who will not only carry out the installation of the ceiling, but will also help with choosing the type of lighting.

Working with the ceiling surface is not so easy, because you have to constantly be between the floor and the ceiling with your hands up, so you should not rely only on yourself, but rather get an assistant who will hand you tools and materials.

Let's consider the main stages of work:

• Clean the ceiling from the remnants of wallpaper, old whitewash and putty, remove the chandelier and other lighting devices. Along the perimeter of the room, draw a line a few centimeters from the ceiling along which you will attach the profiles. First, suspensions for the main frame are mounted, for this you can apply a grid with markings to the ceiling and fix them with a perforator at an equal distance from each other.
• Then a guide profile is attached around the perimeter. As a result, you will have a "metal belt" where the main profile will be inserted. It is attached with self-tapping screws to hangers that carry the load of gypsum board sheets. We insert the ends of the profiles into the grooves of the guides. At the same time, pay attention that the main profiles do not bend, check this with a level.

Some masters use adapters - "crabs" made of metal or extension cords of profiles, which allows you to make a plasterboard ceiling on a large-scale space and without additional assistance.

• It is the turn to sheathe the frame with GKL sheets. Mark the sheets and cut the drywall with a knife so that the parts fit together without gaps.

When cutting drywall, pay attention to some of the nuances:

1. Handle sheets of gypsum plasterboard exclusively on a flat surface.
2. When you mark the lines for cutting, attach a ruler to the line, and already along it with a knife, cut the top layer of drywall. Next, bending the sheet along the cut line, gently break it.
3. Sand the edges with emery to get the perfect smoothness.

• The resulting fragments are screwed to the main profiles with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws should be screwed in at an angle of 90 degrees and at least 1 cm deep into the profile in order for the sheets to be fastened properly. The hats should be "drowned" by 1-2 mm inside the gypsum board sheet and then putty. Finally, level the surface to a perfect condition by gluing the seams with reinforced tape and filling with putty.
• If you accidentally leave a dent during installation, you can putty it before painting, so that the defect will not be visible. After drying, the ceiling is cleaned with emery and covered water-based paint any shade. You can also paste over the surface with wallpaper or even install stained-glass windows into it, which will make the room unique in design.

The times when a typical ceiling was in typical apartments are far in the past. Modern technologies and innovative finishing materials allow you to create incredible structures with unique lighting for decorating the ceiling space. Each owner is free to choose the option for decorating a living space to their liking and in accordance with their financial capabilities. The most affordable and at the same time effective option is a single-level plasterboard covering with a slight lowering of the ceiling level by 10-15 cm.

Frankly speaking, not all customers set themselves the goal of turning their apartment into an ultra-modern living space with a lot of florid ideas and sophisticated design solutions. Some unnecessary complications of the interior are considered not only expensive, but literally tiresome pleasure.

Either people are brought up like that, or their state of health is such that it does not allow them to assess modern ideas, or maybe everything is much simpler - there is not much money, but what to eat just wants to save. Be that as it may, the fact remains that most customers planning gypsum plasterboard surface finishing prefer simple single-level plasterboard ceilings.

If these ceilings can surprise you with something, it is only with their perfectly flat and smooth surface. By and large, this is quite enough for the room to look decent, and it was not a shame to receive guests in it.

General information about a simple plasterboard ceiling

The classic version of the simplest is characterized by the presence of the following main components:

• a strong metal frame made of a galvanized profile fixed to the ceiling with suspensions;
• facing layer, consisting of gypsum board, which are securely screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws;
• system built spot lighting, the supply lines of which are completely hidden from view under the cladding.

Material selection

Whatever the ceiling being built, simple or complex, the material for it needs the same high quality. This is especially true for gypsum plasterboards, which can have different purposes:

• standard;
• moisture resistant;
• fire resistant;
• moisture and fire resistant.

Most often, ceilings in houses and apartments are sheathed using ordinary or moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboards.

Advice: If after delivering the material to your home it seems to you that it is a little damp, there is nothing wrong with that. The main thing is to carefully bring it into the room and let it lie down for a while. In a dry room, literally the next day, the sheets are completely suitable for further use.

Preparing the base for the frame

The beginning of the main work is preceded by the preparation of the walls and the base ceiling:

• we remove the wallpaper completely from the walls, and the surface can not be touched. However, if the room is damp, it is still better to remove the paper;
• dismantle old lighting;
• remove the peeled plaster;
• we draw marking lines on the walls and ceiling using a chokline. First, marks are placed on the walls in all corners at the level of the installation of the new coating. This will help the hydro level. Further, the marks are connected to each other, as a result of which a closed loop is formed. Also, parallel lines are applied on the ceiling with a step of 60 cm, along which suspensions will be located in the future, and load-bearing profiles will be located right below them along them.

Frame installation

The final appearance of any frame structure, including a single-level plasterboard ceiling, largely depends on how the frame is mounted. The mistakes made at this stage can not be corrected by either the finishers or the painters, because if the plane is skewed, the putty will not hide this drawback.

Keeping our responsibility in mind, we get down to work by performing the following steps:

• above the line on the walls, located along the perimeter, we install the CD supporting profile, leaving no gaps. For its installation, hammer-in screws are used, complete with the same size plastic dowels with a "collar". Their size is 6 × 40 mm. If the wall is loose, use longer screws and dowels. The distance between the fasteners is about 50 cm. The short profile can be lengthened by inserting a new piece inside the already installed one or using small special extensions for the guide profile, inserted into both parts;
• when the guide contour from the UD profile is ready, proceed to the installation of the supporting part of the structure. First, along the lines on the surface, we attach metal brackets, which are also called suspensions. For each hanger, two holes must be drilled in the ceiling slab opposite the mounting holes in the hanger. Fixing the suspension to the ceiling should be as rigid as possible. Even a minimal backlash is unacceptable. Suspensions are mounted at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other;
• install the CD supporting profile inside the guide, placing its middle under the ceiling marking line. The length of the CD should be slightly, by 1-1.5 cm, less than the length of the distance between the walls, otherwise the profile cannot be installed without protruding down or up, which is also not allowed;
• bend all plumb lines down 90 °. It is also necessary to take into account that the marking line, lowered too low, may lead to the fact that the length of the bracket for fixing the CD carrier profile in the bent down state may be insufficient. If you realized this late, the length of the suspensions will have to be increased. If you plan to lower the ceiling low, it is better to buy not standard suspensions, but longer samples;
• we fix the bearing profile to the hangers with self-tapping screws or short press washers with a drill at the end, having previously set it along the lower edge of the guide profile. It is most convenient to determine the installation plane using a strong thread stretched across the room and a long rule. Each suspension is screwed with four self-tapping screws: two on each side.

For a conventional ceiling, the frame can also be made of timber. You just need to be sure that it will not be affected by moisture and other deformations. The timber used for the installation of the frame must be dry, otherwise it is possible that the finished structure after drying timber frame will begin to deform. For reliability, the tree is pre-treated with a moisture-proof compound and dried.

Perhaps this is the main thing that you need to know about the installation of a single-level drywall covering shown in the photo below.

Drywall processing

At the edges of the gypsum board, where there is no technological recess for applying putty, it is necessary to chamfer at an angle of 45 ° using a special plane for drywall. This can be done after installing the ceiling, but the processing of the installed sheet is more difficult to carry out, and debris flying down can get into the eyes.

On a note: Cutting drywall is easiest on a flat surface. To cut a whole sheet, first along a rule, ruler or other even object used for cutting, draw with a knife, cutting through the outer layer of the paper. Then, lifting the sheet, you just need to break it along the cut line.

This is usually done without difficulty, and the kink is straight. Now all that remains is to cut the second side of the paper with a knife, keeping the sheet from falling or shifting.

Fastening plasterboard sheets

To reduce the load on frame structure for sheathing the frame, it is better to use 9.5 mm plasterboard boards. The fewer fragments are used, the fewer seams will have to be repaired. A structure made with a minimum number of seams is more durable and the likelihood of cracking is minimized.

Let's take into account some tips to help fix drywall:

• fastening work is best done with a partner, since it is very problematic to independently perform high-quality fastening of a heavy plate. When lifting the plate upwards, in order to avoid its fracture in the middle, it is necessary to hold it on both sides;
• to fix one whole sheet of gypsum board, you need about 60 self-tapping screws 25-30 mm long;
• so that the screws do not break through the plate when screwing in, a bit with a special screw-in depth stop is used, which does not allow the screw to be drowned deeper than necessary;
• it is better to start fixing the plates from the corner of the room;
• over the short edges of the gypsum board, which will be joined with other plates, jumpers from the CD profile are installed between the main bearing profiles. I mount them on "crabs" or by cutting out a mounting shelf in the profile, through which the jumper is fixed to the supporting profile with "bug" screws;
• the slabs of the next row are stacked apart. This is necessary in order to avoid the formation of continuous transverse cracks in the case of minor surface vibrations under the influence of external factorsfor example vibrations generated by street vehicles;
• it is better not to join the plates too tightly, since the subsequent, high-quality filling of the joints with putty will only strengthen the seams.

The ceiling is now ready for seaming and finishing.

As can be seen from many photos, a high-quality, simple plasterboard ceiling looks just exceptional. It remains to finish the design of the room by choosing good wallpaper and durable flooring.

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Plasterboard is one of the most popular materials used for ceiling decoration. And the attractive appearance and durability of this material largely depends on how correctly the frame was designed and mounted under the main wooden or concrete ceiling... Errors and shortcomings in this matter, made out of ignorance or carelessness, will require redoing the entire work. Therefore, it is very important to study how the frame is arranged and how it is made.

Let's start with the basics. A frame is a supporting structure created from a set of linear elements such as wooden bar or steel profile... Its main task is to hold drywall sheets under the ceiling, since it is almost impossible to fix them in any other way. The second task that the frame performs is leveling the ceiling finish. It is unlikely that anyone will be surprised by the fact that the ceilings in most apartments are far from perfectly flat. AND suspended structure from the profile and drywall sheets corrects this defect and gives a smooth and attractive surface. And the last task performed by the frame is to provide space for the wires that are fed to the fixtures built into the drywall sheets.

Important! In addition to the above functions, the frame is used to create a multi-level ceiling finish. But more on this will be discussed below.

Types of frames

There are several criteria by which the frames for plasterboard suspended ceilings are classified. The first and main one is according to the material used.

In turn, the frame made of a metal profile is divided into two main subspecies.

Another criterion by which the frame is classified is the number of levels.

Plasterboard prices

drywall

Now let's consider the components, when connected in a certain system, a ready and durable frame is obtained.

Accessories - profiles

The frame structure includes profiles, connectors and fasteners. This part of the article tells about metal profiles, their standard sizes and how exactly the elements are used to create a false ceiling.

Important! For rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom, toilet or kitchen, it is necessary to use a galvanized profile, as it is more resistant to corrosion. A ceiling with such a frame will last much longer, a small overpayment for its elements is quite reasonable and reasonable.

IN general view the profile is a long product made of zinc-coated metal sheet. The section and size of the profiles depend on what tasks it performs in the frame structure.

Important! Do not confuse PNP with the usual guide profile, abbreviated as PN. The latter is used mainly when creating frames for drywall partitions and decorating walls with this material.

Table. The main characteristics of the profiles used to create false ceilings.

Name	Height, mm	Width, mm	Length mm	Weight per 1 m length, kg
PP 60/27	60	27	2750, 3000, 4000 and 4500	0,6
PNP 28/27	28	27	2750, 3000, 4000 and 4500	0,4
PA 60/27	60	27	2750, 3000, 4000 and 4500	0,6

Accessories - hangers and connectors

By themselves, the profiles that act as beams are useless - they need to be fixed to the ceiling and connected to each other. This task is undertaken by the corresponding components - suspensions and connectors. Let's consider them in more detail.

The second most important element of the frame after the profiles is the U-shaped suspension. Roughly speaking, it is a rolled steel shackle with a width of 27 mm and a height of 60 mm. The width corresponds to the width of the PP profile. The "legs" of the suspension along their length have many paired holes with equal intervals. The base of the element has holes for fasteners - anchor bolts for concrete floors and self-tapping screws for wood. Suspensions are subject to the greatest load, therefore, in no case can you save on their quantity.

Ceiling profile prices

ceiling profile

The task performed by the connectors is clear from their name - to connect the profiles together in a certain position. There are many varieties of this element.

Important! When calculating the quantity necessary materials keep in mind that a reserve is needed for profiles, connectors, hangers and fasteners - an additional 10-20% of the required amount. If any of the elements is damaged or turns out to be defective, the reserve will be very useful.

Accessories - fasteners

So, the profiles are covered, so are the connectors. Now it's time to find out how all the elements of the frame are fastened to each other. The main type of fasteners used to create a false ceiling are self-tapping screws, better known as self-tapping screws.

To connect profiles to each other, use:

• piercing self-tapping screws - LN9, LN9.5, LN12, etc .;
• drilling screws - LB9, LB11, LB16, etc.

Digit after letter designation Is the length of the screw in millimeters. The diameter of a self-tapping fastener for a profile in most cases is 3.5 mm.

Important! There is a kind of fasteners for profiles that have a thin head. This type should be used if you want to screw in a self-tapping screw in a place to which a drywall sheet will then adjoin.

Suspensions and the frame itself are attached to the ceiling with dowels or screws (for concrete floors). If the creation of a false ceiling takes place in wooden house, then self-tapping screws are used, but much more than "bugs" connecting the frame elements.

Planning and calculation

The first stage in creating a frame for finishing the ceiling with plasterboard is planning and calculation. To do this, you will need a few sheets of paper, a ruler, square, pens and pencils. And for directly measuring the room, a ruler and a level are needed (preferably a laser, but hydraulic is also suitable). To subsequently divide the ceiling into zones and plan it, you will need a marker and a chopping thread.

Step 1. The length of all walls is measured. Please note that even in a rectangular room, opposite walls can have different lengths. This is not so noticeable to the eye, but when drawing up a plan for the frame it is of great importance.

Step 2. The height is measured from floor to ceiling in every corner of the room, in the middle of each wall and in the center of the room.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

screwdriver

Step 3. Based on the data obtained in the previous stages, the angle with the smallest height is found. At this point, the distance from ceiling slab to the horizontal plane in which the plasterboard ceiling will be located. The height of the suspended ceiling is calculated depending on two factors - the total height of the room and those communications and objects that need to be placed between the drywall and the concrete floor. Optimal value - from 50 to 65 mm, this is enough for wiring and installation of spotlights.

Step 4. Using a level, a pencil and a thread around the perimeter of the room, a line of the suspended ceiling is applied, along which the installation will be carried out metal profiles or a wooden bar.

Step 5. A diagram of the room is created on paper in a certain scale and with the exact values \u200b\u200bobtained by measuring the length of each wall.

Step 6. The points of attachment of the guide profile and fasteners are applied. The latter should be spaced at intervals of 25-40 cm.

Step 7. The lines of ceiling profiles are applied to the diagram. For a cellular scheme, the distance between them should be 60 cm - half the length of a standard drywall sheet. For a transverse scheme, the distance is from 30 to 40 cm. It is important to remember that the edges of two adjacent sheets are attached to the same profile, and in the drawing all lines run in the middle of the PCB. Pay special attention to this point in the following steps.

Step 8. The scheme is supplemented by points for the location of suspensions (every 40-60 cm) and points where lamps and wiring elements were mounted.

Step 9. From a sheet of paper, the diagram is transferred to a previously prepared ceiling using a tape measure and a thread. The horizontal plane is controlled with a level.

Step 10. Based on the plan, it is calculated required amount profiles, connectors and fasteners.

Important! Plasterboard sheets and, accordingly, the frame for it are located along the direction indicated by the windows in the room, that is, the long side is perpendicular to the plane of the glass and the frame.

More precise dimensions for different types the ceiling are presented in the instructions below.

Ceiling surface preparation

We will briefly describe the measures for preparing the ceiling for the installation of the frame and the suspended ceiling.

Cellular frame - installation

To create a frame, from tools, in addition to a level, thread and a marker, you will need a stepladder, a screwdriver, a hammer and a puncher.

Let us assume that the ceiling has already been planned out and divided using a grid into cells measuring 60 by 60 cm, and we will describe in stages the process of installing suspensions and profiles.

Photo of the frame with "crab" connectors for attaching drywall sheets to the ceiling

Step 1. A guide profile is installed along the line marked on the wall. Before that, a sealing tape is glued to the side adjacent to the wall and holes for dowels are created at intervals of 30-40 cm. The guides are installed along the entire perimeter of the room and are attached to each other using corner connectors.

Crab frame connectors prices

frame connector crab

Step 2. Suspensions are installed 30 cm from the wall along the lines of the main frame profiles. Further, the suspensions are mounted with dowels with a step of 60 cm so that each suspension is in the middle between the future crosspiece profiles. The "legs" of the suspensions are bent down.

Step 3. Ceiling profiles are being prepared. 5-10 mm is cut off from the value approved according to the drawing, so that when the temperature rises, the plasterboard ceiling does not deform due to the expansion of the profiles.

Step 4. Ceiling profiles are inserted into the guides and connected with self-tapping bugs with hangers.

To align horizontally, you need a level and assistants.

For this, such a magnet can be useful. We hook the magnet onto the profile. A strip of masking tape with a line is glued to the magnet. The laser must be set taking into account the distance from the line on the magnet to the surface of the bearing profile. By combining the line and the beam, we will very simply and quickly produce a structure ideally flat in the plane of the horizon.

Step 5. As soon as the main PCBs are mounted, jumpers are installed between them from metal profiles cut to 590-595 mm. Fastening is done crosswise using a crab connector and small self-tapping screws.

Crab mount

The profile is inserted with one end into the start, and the other into the "crab"

Important! A sealing strip is glued to the back of the frame facing the ceiling. It is advisable to apply it even before the profile is fixed to the suspensions.

The sealing tape is a porous material with a self-adhesive base, 30 mm wide. It is used to fasten the structure so that the plasterboard ceiling frame fits snugly against the concrete and transmits sounds less.

Cross frame - installation

Compared with the honeycomb, this design requires less material - there is no need for jumpers and, accordingly, in connectors of the "crab" type. But at the same time, the gap between the individual transverse profiles decreases - instead of 60 cm, 40-50 cm is needed.

Step 1. As described above in the article, the ceiling is marked out - a line for the guides is installed, with the help of a thread, the installation sites of the profiles are beaten off. In addition, you need to determine the angle as close as possible to 90 degrees.

Step 2. Holes are drilled in the wall for the guide profile in increments of 30-40 cm.

Step 3. The guide profile is pasted over sealing tape and is fixed to the wall with screws and dowels.

Step 4. As for the cellular frame, suspensions are installed 30 cm from the wall and 60 cm from each other. The ends of the elements are bent down.

Step 5. The transverse ceiling profile is cut to the required length. In order not to damage the drywall during thermal expansion and prevent warping, the "extra" 5 mm are cut off.

Video - How to cut a UD and CD profile with your own hands

Step 6. The profile is pasted over with sealing tape from the bottom side, inserted into the guides and attached to the hangers using small self-tapping screws, called bugs.

Multilevel frame - installation

There are many variations of a multi-level suspended ceiling, its shape, design and other things, and a detailed description of them is good topic for a separate article. The ceiling is also considered here, where both tiers and the sides between them are made of plasterboard.

Ceiling light prices

ceiling lamps

Step 1. The first thing is the markup. Here, twice as much attention is paid to the creation of a drawing and its transfer to the ceiling than for a single-level ceiling - the complexity of the task is much higher.

Step 2. On the wall, the lines of guide profiles for the upper and lower levels are marked, holes for fasteners are drilled.

Step 3. The top-level guide profiles are fixed to the wall. The details are described in the previous instructions.

Step 4. Direct suspensions are installed. The spacing between them can be reduced (and therefore more hangers can be placed), since the load on the floor and frame will be higher.

Step 5. Top-level ceiling profiles are installed as for a single-level ceiling. It is possible to use both transverse and cellular construction.

Step 6. The guides of the lower level are attached to the wall.

Step 7. One of the straight profiles is cut into many vertical posts, which will be the "sides" between the levels of the ceiling. Using tiered or T-shaped connectors, the racks are attached to supporting structure top level.

Step 8. An arched profile is attached to the bottom of the posts. It can be replaced with a guide profile with evenly applied cuts and folds in the right places.

Step 9. Bearing PP is inserted between the arched profile and the guides of the lower level.

Video - Installation of a multilevel plasterboard ceiling

Thus, a frame for a multi-level ceiling is obtained, where an additional load is applied to the upper level. In such work, the help of an experienced master is very important.

Now, after reading this article, you know how a suspended ceiling frame works. It remains only to acquire materials, tools, a great desire and help from relatives or friends.

Video - Frame for plasterboard on the ceiling. Installation

The very first thing most people want to build when they start working with drywall is ceilings from it. The advantages of plasterboard ceilings are quite obvious, they allow you to hide wires and some communications in them, they are easy to erect, you can choose the size and shape yourself, the ability to create a unique design, have a relatively low price.

What is this article about

Features:

If you are reading this, then for sure for a reason, you intend to create ceilings from drywall, but do not know how to do it correctly, which means - quickly and efficiently. To create ceilings, some professional tool for working with drywall, for example, a lift, because it can significantly simplify the work. If you don't have anything like this, then you don't have to worry, using them, although desirable, is not necessary. You can get by with a standard stepladder.

Note that it is better to create ceilings in such rooms, the size of which allows you to slightly reduce the height of the room (by about 15-25 cm). Most of the free space for the ceiling is set aside for the frame, which will hold the drywall. In addition, the design of the ceiling can be very different, everything depends on who will create them, because for someone a single-level ceiling is enough, and for someone, 2-3 levels are not enough. Often created lighting on plasterboard ceilings is a spotlight that is mounted directly inside the structure, which allows you to make more beautiful and neat placement of the wiring and the fixtures themselves.

Before we start, we want to immediately discuss that we will talk about how a single-level plasterboard ceiling is created. Why exactly he?

1. We already have an article about it, we advise you to read it.
2. These are very light ceilings, both in weight and in the complexity of construction, so they are very popular both among specialists of various qualifications and among beginners.
3. To understand how plasterboard ceilings are erected, you just need to study the installation of the first level, and the rest are superimposed on the first in the same way.

Ceiling shape: not an easy choice

See how much different forms ceiling can be created, but consider if you need it. If you are ready to confuse a little and make a ceiling of a complex shape, but only on one level, which makes the task easier, then you can sketch your fantasies on paper. The more original and creative the shape and design of the ceiling is, the more it will attract attention. This can distract your eyes from details that you might not want to see by focusing on the ceiling.

Your experiments in finding the shape of the ceiling can be made a little easier. To do this, you just need to draw a flat ceiling, in which you have already made the necessary holes for the lamps and the height differences that you require. Plan the shape of the ceiling, taking into account the communications that will pass inside the frame. It can be pipes and wires, but not very large in shape, so that they do not overload the frame and can get into it.

When you choose the shape of the ceiling that will completely suit you, it will be possible in the construction, it will not cut your eyes, then you can start applying the markings. The main thing is to remember that a single-level ceiling is very simple in design, so you should not spend a long time choosing a shape and marking, it is better to devote more time to creating a frame.

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*Attention! All results are approximate - accuracy depends on the wall material, condition and shape of the room

Ceiling markings

It is imperative to indicate the location of the rails of the guide profile, which will be located along the perimeter of the walls, that is, you need to mark the boundaries of the ceiling at the distance from the base that you need. Usually suspended ceiling positioned from the main one by 15-25 centimeters. When marking the ceiling, it is imperative to apply laser level, which will allow you to make straight lines on the walls. Install the laser level so that its beam is around the entire perimeter of the room at (20) centimeters from the main ceiling, then place it in the corners of the room on a self-tapping screw and pull a bright thread over them.

The thread will help you when installing the guide profile. In addition to the perimeter of the ceiling, you will also need to make a markup of the profile that will be located inside the structure. It will be suspended in the inner part of the ceiling, connecting to the rail. The distance between the ceiling profile should be 50-60 centimeters, and the attachment points of the suspensions on one rail are 65 centimeters apart. All of this should be noted in the markup.
In addition, indicate the dimensions of the rails that are in a certain area, so that you do not measure this distance later, but calmly and quickly cut off the profile rail. Also, indicate the distances between different parts of the structure, which will allow you to know all the details of the placement, which means that the work will go much faster and more efficiently.

Assembling the frame

For a drywall ceiling, it is necessary to assemble a frame in which wires and pipes can be hidden, and lighting can also be placed there. Creating a frame will allow you to align the ceiling, which will have a good effect on it appearance, therefore, although the frame will take 20-30 centimeters of height, it will visually greatly increase the height of the room and significantly improve the appearance of the entire room.

First you need to install a guide profile, but not the one that is used in walls or plasterboard partitions, but a special ceiling guide profile. It is fixed above the threads that you pulled during the marking stage. To securely fix it, use a drill and dowels, but only on a concrete base. Make the step between the dowels 12-20 centimeters.

When you fix the guide profile, you can remove the thread and unscrew the screws on which it was pulled. While nothing needs to be attached to the guide profile, now it will be necessary to start placing the suspensions. They are installed in pre-marked areas, that is, where the ceiling profile will pass. Maintain the distance between them at 60–70 centimeters, this is a light single-level ceiling, so you don't need to place many suspensions. There should be 5-6 suspensions on a 3-4 meter rail of the ceiling profile.

A ceiling profile must be installed to the fixed hangers. The connection is made with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. If you plan to continue doing repairs in your apartment on your own, then we advise you to buy a ribbon nozzle for the screwdriver in order to save time and free your hands. First, the rail of the ceiling profile is inserted into the guide and fastened to it (here you can use a cutter), and only then it is fixed in the suspensions. Otherwise, the profile cannot be placed inside the guide. Everyone probably understands this, but we want to finally make sure that you are aware that you need to place the profile in the suspensions with the front side to the floor, since it is on it that the drywall will be attached.

The ends of the suspensions, which look out beyond the profile, must be bent or cut off, but it will still be better to bend, since they cannot be cut off very evenly, which will interfere with the sheathing. In principle, this is a single-level ceiling, so you can do with only one direction for placing the ceiling profile. But if you want to further strengthen the structure, you can place a row of ceiling profiles, which will be perpendicular to the first one and will be connected to the profile guides, which is located on the other 2 walls. In this case, you need to use special mounts - crabs.

Plasterboard sheathing

The installation of the frame is completed, now you can proceed to the sheathing. It is much easier to sheathe the ceiling than partitions or arches, and it is not difficult to sheathe a single-level ceiling at all. This is a flat surface that very rarely has bends, since it is very difficult to make them at the same level. Start placing with the sheets that fit entirely, and only then proceed with the placement of the cut drywall sheets. To make it easier to lift the sheets and fix them - use a drywall lift, but this is not necessary, with skill, you can quickly cope without it.

If you are making lighting in the ceiling, then lay the wires before you begin to sheathe the ceiling. In the sheets of drywall, you will need to make holes for the lamp, and after sheathing, connect them to the wires and fix them in the structure. The self-tapping screws, which fasten the drywall to the frame, deepen into the drywall, but no more than 2 mm. Before puttingty, run a spatula along the surface of the ceiling, if it does not meet obstacles - the caps of the screws, then you can putty, otherwise - tighten the screws.

You need to putty the ceiling in the same way as the walls and all other structures made of drywall: putty is applied to the seams, the serpyanka is glued, then the second layer of putty, the same is on the screws, only without the serpyanka. The putty must be applied in two layers, but in different compositions. The first is the starting, and the second is the finishing putty.

The composition must be deepened into the seams of the product, as you do this above your head, then press the spatula harder so that the putty does not fall on you and the floor. When the composition dries, the surface can be sanded. To do this, use an emery paper holder or sander, carefully process the seams, aligning their height with the ceiling height. Don't forget a respirator.

The installation of the plasterboard ceiling is now complete, now you can place a chandelier on it, make decorative cladding, apply paint.

Repairs indoor spaces in a residential building, in an office or in a city apartment today is performed on the basis of new technologies, where the main focus is on modern materials... Among finishing materials one of the main places in internal design occupies gypsum board. This material is unique in its technological properties and universal in its application. Due to its high technological characteristics, gypsum board is actively used for finishing ceilings. The most common type of ceiling design is rightfully considered to be single-level plasterboard ceilings. This technology is simple and straightforward enough to do it yourself.

How a beautiful plasterboard suspended ceiling is made, and what materials are used for this are the main aspects of this article. Having familiarized yourself in detail with all the subtleties and nuances of installation work, you can proceed directly to the implementation of the project.

What tasks does drywall used for finishing ceilings solve?

The use of drywall in finishing ceiling works is due to a number of reasons, each of which takes place when interior decoration... We often have to deal with the fact that there is an urgent need to level the existing ceiling surfaces. The condition of the ceilings is often far from perfect. We have to deal with technological and structural defects of the floors. Sometimes the old coating on the ceilings has already lost its attractiveness and relevance. There is an urgent need to quickly and with the least labor costs eliminate the existing shortcomings.

In addition, in the process of renovation, technological innovations appear in the apartment, which carry a certain load. The main intra-building communications pass under the ceilings. This is a ventilation system, and electrical wiring and communication lines. There is a natural desire to hide and disguise the main technological nodes and communications.

Finally, finishing work in to a greater extent today they are aimed at creating an interesting interior, therefore the desire to make the ceiling structure non-standard and original is quite justified. To create a visual zoning of the interior space, move away from the traditional central arrangement of lamps, and allow the installation of lamps for decorative lighting.

All of these problems can be solved in stages using old and proven technologies. However, today you can deal with technical challenges this kind is simple and easy, having built a single-level beautiful and original plasterboard ceiling. To get the desired result, it is enough to have an idea of \u200b\u200bthe technology for laying drywall on ceilings, consumables in the right amount and the necessary working tools.

On a note: in preparation for installation work, you will have to deal with gypsum board standard sizes... The sheets can be 2.5 - 4.8 m long and 1.2 m wide. The thickness of the sheets varies between 8-24 mm.

Before starting installation work, you should make simple mathematical calculations, saving yourself from unnecessary expenses. According to experts, it is recommended to use plasterboard 8-9 mm thick for interior finishing work with ceilings. For the kitchen and rooms with high humidity, a moisture-resistant material is taken, on which there is a corresponding GKLV marking.

Important! Try to purchase plasterboards from well-known manufacturers and specialized points of sale. Low-quality drywall will not last long, causing a lot of trouble even during installation work.

Having figured out what material and how much it will be required to decorate the ceiling surfaces, you can start directly to work.

Preparation for the installation of single-level ceilings. Technical subtleties and nuances

If you know how to handle a screwdriver and tape measure, you have an idea of \u200b\u200bhow to work with a grinder, you can make single-level plasterboard ceilings yourself. Moreover, the quality is quite acceptable.

When planning such a reconstruction, you immediately solve the issues facing you:

• level the ceiling to a perfectly level state;
• hide cords, cables and pipes;
• preparing the technological base for the installation of new lamps.

When working with drywall, you should adhere to certain requirements, technical subtleties and nuances. Despite this, working with plasterboard is a pleasure. A small dent on the front surface of the sheet can be easily removed during the subsequent puttying of the finished ceiling. The material is easy to cut and fits perfectly on the prepared frame. However, there are some limitations in this case. Single-level ceilings built on the basis metal frame, significantly reduce the height of the premises.

Important! For small apartments, it is not recommended to lower the ceilings by more than 10 cm.As a rule, suspended single-level systems are designed to lower the height in the room by only 5-7 cm.

Another important aspect is the conditions under which the installation of the ceiling surface will be carried out. The ceilings should be dealt with after the walls have already been put in order and the installation of window and doorways... Why? The thing is that during the subsequent installation of doors and windows, movements and shaking are possible, which can negatively affect the integrity of the plasterboard surface. Finished walls are a reference point for the subsequent installation of the frame and laying the cut pieces of gypsum board.

Finishing finishing works a certain microclimate must be established inside the room. Drywall is very sensitive to sudden changes in temperature and humidity levels. In the warm season, try to avoid drafts, but in winter period, before starting work, it is better to stock up on a heater.

Installation of a single-level ceiling. Work stages

Any assembly work start with a selection of tools. In order for everything to go smoothly and according to a knurled pattern, you will need:

• puncher;
• screwdriver;
• assembly knife;
• roulette;
• building level;
• sandpaper.

With this set, you can cope with the task yourself. Of supplies it is necessary to purchase a starting, longitudinal and bearing profile. Self-tapping screws, crabs and dowels are used as fastening equipment. Finishing works consist in filling the fastening points of the sheets and in sealing the joints.

The first step is to install profiles

In order to build a single-level ceiling of excellent quality from plasterboard, beautiful and original, with your own hands, all subsequent actions must be done in stages. Ceiling work begins in the prepared room with the installation of profiles. These elements of the future structure must be installed around the entire perimeter of the room, strictly observing the horizontal arrangement. Starting from the lowest section of the base ceiling surface, a control line is drawn using the level. This is the mark relative to which the profiles will be mounted in the future. We use galvanized CD profiles and UD starter profiles.

With the help of the grinder, fragments of profiles of certain sizes are cut and installed along the outlined line around the entire perimeter of the room. For mounting metal profiles in concrete or in brick walls dowels are used. The step between the attachment points should not be more than 30-40 cm.

The second stage is the installation of suspensions and guides

Having coped with the installation of guide profiles, you can proceed to the installation of suspensions. The marking of the ceiling in this case is carried out taking into account the location of the guide profiles. The quality of laying pieces of drywall depends on how the guides are installed.

Important! at each stage, try to check the level of the installed part with a level. All suspensions and guides must be in the same plane, without sudden changes in height.

The guides must be laid in such a way that when installing the gypsum board sheets, the bearing elements fall on the central part of the sheet and reach its edges.

Having made the markings, start installing the suspensions. It is necessary to fasten these structural elements to the rough ceiling surface only with dowels. Otherwise, with insufficient strength of the fasteners, the risk of collapse of the finished ceiling structure increases. The hangers are not firmly fixed. There should be a slight backlash, which will allow in the future to freely attach the cut pieces of drywall to the guides.

After the hangers are fixed, mount the profiles. For this purpose, a certain distance must be observed. Longitudinal profiles are fixed at a distance of 40 cm from each other. The transverse profiles are already mounted at a distance of 60 cm from each other. When the installation of the frame is completed, you can start intermediate technological work.

To fill the space between the ceilings, in order to increase sound and thermal insulation, mineral wool is usually laid.

Important! All wires and cables passing under the ceiling are recommended to be laid in special corrugated fireproof channels. Prepare the connectors at the connection points of the luminaires.

The third stage is the installation of drywall

It should be said that a correctly mounted frame is the key to the success of all work when equipping single-level plasterboard ceilings... The horizontality of the entire structure is one of the main conditions. If these requirements are not met, there may be a bias and, accordingly, a new ceiling surface may crack. This will be due to the fact that gypsum board does not tolerate dynamic stress very well.

Pieces of plasterboard cut to size are treated with a primer solution on both sides. This is done to increase the resistance of the entire array to external influences. Sheets are laid across the longitudinal profiles. Do not forget that a technological gap of 3-5 mm must be left near the wall. Installation always starts from the corner and the wall opposite to the entrance to the room. The gap between the ceiling and walls is needed due to the fact that the new ceiling will definitely breathe, acclimatizing to new conditions.

On a note: self-tapping screws are used to fasten the gypsum board sheets. The fastener is screwed into the plane of the sheet in such a way that the cap is recessed and does not protrude outward. The subsequent surface quality depends on this.

Fasten drywall sheets in 20mm increments. The minimum step is 15cm. The maximum permissible joint width between pieces of drywall is 2.5 mm. The thinner the seam, the easier it is to putty in the future. When installing drywall, immediately make holes for lighting fixtures.

Conclusion

After finishing the installation of drywall on the frame, you get an almost finished new ceiling. Now, no unevenness or defects are visible. All communications are successfully hidden, the ground has been prepared for the installation of lighting equipment. There are no particular difficulties in this work. The only thing that is required to install single-level ceilings is the sequence of each stage and adherence to technology. Let's summarize. Plasterboard single-level ceilings are:

1. Always comfortable, fashionable and stylish;
2. A quick way to eliminate defects on ceilings, hide communications and equip a new type of lighting;
3. Strong and stable frame for suspension system;
4. Convenient and understandable way of styling;
5. Practical, durable and easy-to-use ceiling surface.