How to insulate the walls in a brick bath. We insulate the bath with our own hands. Do-it-yourself bath insulation

Choosing which bath to build - wooden or brick on summer cottage, it is necessary to first decide and understand some of the nuances of these building materials. A feature of the brick is the thorough insulation of the brick bath from the inside, due to its high thermal conductivity.

During construction, a wooden bath requires additional measures such as the application of protective equipment against fire, as well as waterproofing the load-bearing elements of the structure.

In contrast to wood, brick structures are fireproof and waterproof. At the same time, in order to improve comfortable conditions when taking hygienic procedures, the insulation of a brick bath from the inside helps to increase the efficiency of heating the building by about 2-3 times. Next, we will consider how and in what rooms to insulate a brick bath, as well as what materials are best used for these purposes.

Features of internal insulation of a brick bath

When building a bath, it is important to know how and where, if possible, to insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands.

The main elements of the structure that require insulation or thermal insulation from the inside of the bath are:

Foundation around the entire perimeter of the building.
The floor in all rooms is the same along the perimeter.
The ceiling, that is, the roof.
Walls, both external and internal (partitions).

At the same time, the insulation of a brick bath from the inside, its scheme as a whole does not represent any complex and especially time-consuming process.

Most often, internal wall insulation is carried out according to two common options:

By creating an additional second wall along the main one, that is, along the entire perimeter of the main brick wall and inside the room.
The recommended thermal insulation inside a brick building is also achieved by installing a double layer of insulation.

As for the insulation of the other components of the fragments of the bath, here, as a rule, everything is almost standard, that is, today most of the thermal insulation materials are quite suitable for these purposes.

Bath insulation materials

In order to insulate a brick bath, you will need to purchase certain materials, which in the classical way insulate one or another of its constituent elements from the inside - the foundation, floor, ceiling or walls.

So, for thermal insulation of the horizontal part of the foundation, as a rule, foam or expanded clay is used, since these materials are the most affordable and have all the necessary qualities to cover this element of the bath. Vertical insulation of the foundation of a brick bath, for example, with penoplex or polyurethane foam, is recommended to be carried out with the help of specialists, since their self-application will cost the owner of the future bath more than calling a master with a ready-made arsenal of everything necessary for such procedures.

It is recommended to cover the floor in rooms such as the dressing room and the washing room with ceramic tiles with thermal insulation underneath, respectively. Schematically, this procedure can be briefly described as follows: a cranial bar is sewn to the beams, on which the subfloor is mounted, then a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then a thermal insulation material (expanded polystyrene or expanded clay) is laid on top, and at the end a reinforced mesh is laid on the resulting cake, and all this is then poured with cement-concrete mortar.

At the same time, after the concrete screed has dried, the floor in the brick bath is covered with waterproofing followed by the imposition of ceramic tiles on it. In the steam room and the rest room flooring it is mandatory to issue wooden deck, in order to avoid the so-called heatstroke from the floor heated by steam.

The walls of the steam room in a brick bath are insulated with basalt insulation, which is covered with a special foil for baths. The boundaries of the joints in foil-lined insulation and the foil itself are glued with a wide aluminum tape specially designed for this purpose.

As for the ceiling, it is insulated on top with mineral wool with mandatory double-sided waterproofing. Ceiling insulation of a brick bath from the inside can also be done with the help of fiberglass, 2 clay-sand layers (one layer is made of sawdust, and the other layer is made of vermiculite or its analog), as well as with penoplex laid on top of all these layers.

At the same time, in the steam room, it is again desirable to cover the ceiling with foil-coated fiberglass, since expanded polystyrene, when heated, releases substances hazardous to human health.

If the insulation of a brick bath, tested over the years and recommended by experts, is mainly produced by such materials as mineral wool, expanded clay, vermiculite, penoplex, polyurethane foam, basalt insulation, fiberglass and so on, then do not forget that there are other bottlenecks , in which small but heat losses also occur.

Of course, these places are mainly either door or window openings, as a rule, external. In this regard, it is not advisable to lay large windows facing the street or yard during the construction of baths, as well as very high doors... At the same time, it is recommended to place window openings as low as possible, and the entrance door should be equipped with a threshold.

In order for the insulation of the brick bath inside to be more reliable, it is preferable to install triple double-glazed windows on the windows, and choose the doors from wood already with insulation inside, or from heat-resistant, shockproof, durable glass.

Another small nuance that should not be neglected when building a brick bath is the implementation of a local protective impregnation bricks from harmful bacteria. It is recommended to perform this procedure mainly in rooms such as a steam room and shower.

It is equally useful to know several reasons due to which it is not recommended to make external insulation of a brick bath. One of them is an unwanted and very expensive cake made from insulation on both sides of the brick. By insulating the walls of the bath from the outside, the consumption increases not only in building material, but also in fuel. The other is significant losses for heating cold bricks in winter.

A simple calculation based on the laws of physics will help to avoid the formation of condensation on the ceiling in the steam room: the thermal insulation for the ceiling should always be proportionally thicker than for the walls.

Summarizing

Since a private bath, whether it is made of brick or wood, is operated periodically, it makes no sense to maintain a constant positive temperature in it. Therefore, as a win-win option, if the bath has a brick frame, it is recommended to carry out all the measures for warming the premises inside.

Thus, a competent installation for the insulation of brick walls with layers of insulation from the inside will give a good saving in costs for heating the premises. In turn, this means that the thermal insulation material must work according to the rule of keeping warm air in a closed space.

If all the measures for warming the surfaces of the building were carried out correctly, then such a brick bath during operation will keep the heat received from the burned firewood inside to the maximum, and its visitors will ultimately get incomparable pleasure from staying in it.

How to insulate a brick bath with your own hands correctly

Quite often, bath buildings are built of bricks. During their construction, one of the important stages is the insulation of a brick bath from the inside. The fact is that walls made of this material cannot keep heat for a long time.

When a brick bath is being built, wall insulation can be done using various building materials. To provide high-quality thermal protection from the inside, so that the heat stays inside the building for a long time, information on this topic will help. See also: "How to build a brick bath - we start with the foundation and finish with the roof."

Materials used for insulation

After the walls are erected, the roof is mounted and the doors are installed, they proceed to the interior decoration of the building. Thermal insulation of a brick bath must be done in such a way that the optimal microclimate is maintained in the premises for a long time and temperature regime... Decorative wall decoration also helps to keep warm inside the building.

Usually, do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside is carried out by installing a multilayer thermal insulation structure. One of its layers is laid from slabs, and the other from rolled materials with a foil-based coating, since this type of thermal protection perfectly reflects IF radiation and protects the insulation from the negative effects of humid air.

To perform this work with high quality, you need to know how to insulate the walls in a brick bath.

Experts advise using the following materials:

mineral wool in rolls or plates;
glass wool;
slabs of peat or cellulose porous structure;
reed mats;
boards made of polyurethane or polystyrene.

It should be borne in mind that heat-insulating materials based on polystyrene, like glass wool, do not have good heat resistance. For this reason, they should not be used when insulating a steam room in a brick bath, in particular its walls and ceiling. To reduce heat loss through the floor covering, a layer of expanded clay is used as an additional heat insulator.

Heaters made on the basis of foil have proven themselves perfectly. As you know, materials such as foil film are expensive, so for interior decoration bath rooms with a low degree of humidity, it is allowed to use kraft paper. The result is savings. For example, cheaper materials can be used for insulation in the recreation room.

Floor insulation in brick baths

Insulation options that are suitable for baths under construction are not suitable for thermal protection of bath buildings in which overhaul... But the sequence of work in both cases has a lot in common.

When a brick bath is insulated from the inside, the scheme provides that it is necessary to start work with the floor covering. Heat protection of the floor is needed, since a person moves barefoot on its surface, which means that it should be warmed up as much as possible.

Before insulating a brick bath from the inside with your own hands, you should create an air gap between the foundation of the building and the floor covering. This will provide sufficient thermal insulation.

When arranging the gap on the base of the room, support bars are installed, and expanded clay is poured in between them, the layer of which should be approximately 2 times the thickness of the walls in the building. On top of the supporting elements, beams are mounted made of wooden beams, which are pre-dried and treated with antiseptics.

Plates of heat-shielding materials are placed between them, and the gaps formed during operation between the logs and the insulation layer should be eliminated using polyurethane foam. Then you need to lay glassine on the floor, and on top of it make a flooring of plywood sheets or boards. The main flooring is installed at the final stage.

Features of thermal protection of walls in baths

After completing the thermal insulation of the floor, they begin to create protection for the walls. Before insulating a brick bath from the inside, in order to prevent the growth of bacteria, the walls in them are impregnated with special means. This procedure is required only for the treatment of some premises - these are shower rooms and steam rooms.

There are features regarding how to properly insulate a brick bath (walls in it):

To reduce the degree of heat loss, the gaps between windows and walls are eliminated with polyurethane foam.
The frame on which the cladding is mounted is constructed of wooden beams and fixed directly on the brickwork.
It is undesirable to use metal profiles and suspensions in work, since they have the property of conducting thermal energy.
Mineral wool or polystyrene plates used as insulation are placed in cells that make up the crate.
The thermal insulation material is fixed on the masonry with dowel-umbrellas or special adhesives are used.
Before applying heat protection, bath walls made of bricks must be treated with a penetrating primer.

After completing the fixation on the walls of the main thermal insulation material, you need to lay a vapor barrier layer made of kraft paper, or foil film or other materials.

You need to know how to properly insulate a steam room in a brick bath, because in a particularly humid room, kraft paper will get wet and will soon become unusable.
Foil-based film is best for such places.

If necessary, a counter-lattice can be stuffed onto the lathing bars, as a result of which a gap will appear between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. Then the lining is nailed to the counter-lattice.

In the event that the bath has a large square, its walls should be insulated on all floors in order to avoid significant heat losses during operation. If there is a loggia, it is also subject to insulation. In addition, to ensure thermal protection of the building, it will not harm the installation of solid entrance doors equipped with at least two sealing circuits.

The procedure for thermal protection of the ceiling

It is impossible to eliminate heat loss in bath rooms without insulation of the ceiling in them. This is especially important when they are located in a one-story building.

The sequence of work when arranging the thermal protection of the ceiling in the bath is as follows:

Fiberglass is laid on top of the ceiling, placing overlapping strips of material. They are connected together using scotch tape or adhesive tape.
A solution mixed from clay, chopped straw and river sand is laid on top of the insulation. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 30 centimeters.
A layer of polystyrene is laid on the clay mortar, and then a cement mixture with a thickness of about 10 centimeters is poured on top of it.
To improve the thermal insulation performance of the bath structure, you can add foam crumbs to the cement mass, observing a ratio of 1: 3, or even better 1: 4.
Lathing beams are attached to the rough surface of the ceiling from the inside, placing basalt wool in the slabs between them.
A foil film is laid on top of the insulating product, and on top it is sheathed with clapboard, observing a 10 mm gap between the elements.

Subject to the correct implementation of the insulation of the room from the inside, during its operation, the loss of thermal energy will be minimized, which means that a visit to the bath will bring maximum pleasure.

The warmer the bathhouse itself, the less firewood will be consumed to heat it and the longer it will retain heat. In general, bath insulation is a complex process. And the rest room, steam room and dressing room can be insulated in completely different ways: due to their constant microclimate. So how to properly insulate the bath? Let's figure it out.

Bath insulation from the inside: photos, diagrams and video

So, how to insulate a bath from the inside, depending on what material it was built from.

Features of thermal insulation of a log house

For a long time, no one has ever insulated a bathhouse from a log house - not even the floors. It's just that the logs were changed from time to time and the lower rims were repaired. But today when good log house and a real Russian steam room is almost a rarity, the question of high-quality insulation is far from the last. After all, its longevity depends on how protected the bath is from moisture and cold.

In general, insulation in a wooden bath is necessary only when the dimensions of the timber are small, in all other cases, caulking and good waterproofing are really enough. For internal insulation In the steam rooms of the timber baths, a traditional "cake" with mineral wool is used - except that the thickness of the working layer itself can be 2 times less than for a brick steam room.

Brick bath and its insulation

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside is designed primarily so that a brick that quickly freezes at minus temperatures does not affect heat exchange processes in the bath - if only because it is absolutely unrealistic to heat it up in winter. Therefore, in such paired rooms, an additional wooden frame.

These can be the second walls inside the bath - from a 10x10 cm beam.To do this, a crate is made in the bath, it is mounted on it waterproofing material, and a wall of timber is being erected. A crate is stuffed onto it and the following materials are attached to it: fiberglass and a ten-centimeter insulation, in which one side is made of foil. Then comes the waterproofing and the finishing lining is stuffed.

You can also implement the second popular option, how to insulate a brick bath: instead of a timber, another layer of insulation of the same thickness is used, and another layer of waterproofing is laid between them. So how does the insulation of a bath from a bar take place today? Basically - reed slabs, which are lightweight, pre-treated with a fire retardant and cost literally a penny. And, so that they do not rot, they can be additionally treated with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate. It is necessary to put reed slabs in a layer of 15 m between the inner and outer upholstery.

By the way, it is highly desirable to make the internal walls in a brick bath of wood so that there are no problems with thermal insulation later. And insulate them in the usual way.

How to insulate a bath from foam, cinder blocks and concrete

Cinder blocks and foam blocks themselves have quite good thermal insulation materials due to their porous structure. But they can still freeze in winter, and therefore it is necessary to additionally insulate the block bath. Otherwise, all its walls will delight in cold weather with unaesthetic dark wet spots.

Mineral wool and fiberglass are most suitable for such a bath. But in general, the whole cake should be provided with a reliable vapor barrier - any blocks do not like high humidity in the air, and they absorb water into themselves, like sponges. In general, it can be used as insulation and foam.

The first task when insulating aerated concrete walls of a bath is to remove an ice block of concrete from the heating circuit. Why, inside the entire structure, the frame must be made with an indent from the walls. Moreover, the resulting space must be well ventilated - for this, at the top of the bath and at the bottom, special ventilation windows must be made from the outside. During bath procedures, they must be closed, and during drying of the bath, they must be opened. And then the usual "pie" of insulation is made in the steam room and the washing room. The most standard looks like this: aerated concrete or block wall - a frame for insulation with an indent from the wall - insulation - board - vapor barrier where the steam room is finished with an aspen or cedar board. Thus, the ice walls do not have to be heated - that's all the tricks.

Warming rules for a frame bath

The very idea of \u200b\u200ba frame bath assumes that a lot of heat insulator will be placed inside its wooden "skeleton". This construction technology even has its own name - Canadian, and is considered the most energy efficient in modern construction all over the world. It is best to insulate such a bath, of course, with mineral wool, but the foam will feel bad here.

In each window of the "skeleton" you need to put a cotton insulator, well protected by steam and waterproofing - that's all the insulation. It remains to sheathe the outer sides of the bath frame wooden clapboard or OSB boards, and then do the finishing work.

But the steam room in the bath is insulated according to the same principle as the log house - with roll special insulators, which are equipped with membranes and do not require the arrangement of ventilation gaps between the partitions.

Option two: the frame bath is insulated according to the following scheme. a vapor barrier made of parchment (or roofing felt, or roofing felts) is laid directly on the frame, which is attached by means of wood sheathing. Between the resulting inner and outer walls, you need to put foam plastic, fiberboard or heat-insulating reed boards. All this is closed from all sides with layers of asbestos cement, which makes the frame bath both stronger and warmer.

Still insulate frame bath you can use sawdust, gypsum and wood chips. All this is mixed with lime in a ten to one ratio and a thick layer is placed between the outer and inner skin. The main thing is that the sawdust is well dried, and the layers are treated with iron vitriol.

Features of ceiling and floor insulation

The saunas are ideal for the dressing room and washing room ceramic tile - but there must also be thermal insulation under it. Here is the most common scheme for warming the floor in a bath: a cranial block is sewn to the beams, on which a rough floor of boards is laid. After that comes a layer of vapor barrier, and then the space between the beams must be filled with the selected heat-insulating material - expanded polystyrene or expanded clay, for example.

On top of this, a reinforced metal grid and is filled concrete screed... After the latter has dried, the floor is waterproofed with waterproofing. Again, the screed is 3-5 cm thick and you can build in an underfloor heating system at will. Finally, ceramic tiles are placed on the screed.

But in the steam room and the rest room, the floor is necessarily made of wood - so that the so-called "heat stroke" does not happen.

Drawing up a "pie" for ceiling insulation

Thermal insulation of a bath from the inside always begins from the ceiling - after all, the highest temperature is always at its level, and therefore special attention should be paid to this part of the steam room. The ceiling should be arranged as follows: vapor barrier - insulation - sheathing - girder - ceiling boards.

If the attic or the second floor in the bath is residential, then the insulation cake will look a little different: the ceiling boards must be smeared with clay in a two-centimeter layer and covered with wood chips up to 20 cm, or expanded clay or some kind of insulation. The main thing is that it is of the right thickness.

This is how the sauna is insulated from foam blocks, log houses and bricks. Each type of building has its own technology, and knowing at least its basics will help you always keep your steam room warm.

Before insulating a bath, you need to take into account certain factors that affect this process. You should definitely take into account what material the bathhouse was built from (brick, wooden modules or foam block), study all the climatic features of your area.

Log house thermal insulation

From time immemorial, a felling was put up for a traditional Russian bath. Although it is known that the tree retains heat quite well and the diameter of the frame can be more than 20 cm, it is still worth insulating the bath using additional materials.

But why is it still worth insulating the bath? The reasons for this are as follows:

Now you are convinced that it is extremely necessary to insulate your bath. So, let's look at ways to insulate a bath outside. In order to best insulate the log house, caulking (caulking) should be carried out.

Most often, caulking occurs in 3 stages:

during the first stage, the crowns are stacked one by one, a special inter-crown insulation is placed on the lower crown;
already the second stage should be passed in a year, immediately after shrinkage occurs;
but the third stage of insulation takes place only four years later, already after the bath was built. At this stage, caulking is presented as the restoration of a previously installed sauna heater.

If new cracks have already appeared in the bath and it has begun to quickly release heat, then you should use a heater based on jute and flax. This jute holds heat well and is non-flammable. The truth should be remembered that it can easily break. And for this reason, flax was added to the insulation. It is important to do this very carefully when blocking the cracks with this insulation, since if you carelessly, you can provoke a skewed bath. You can also use a syringe-shaped sealant to eliminate unwanted crevices. It is easier to use and fills all gaps with quality.

Brick bath, the procedure for insulation

It is known that a brick wall cools down much faster than wooden surface, for example, a log house. This is because the brick gives off heat much faster. And although there are practically no cracks or gaps in the brick walls, the brick wall heats up for a very long time. But remember that this applies to a non-insulated room.

It is best for brick walls to choose mineral woolsince it has good thermal insulation and fire resistance properties.

Isospan is best used as a hydro and vapor barrier. Since it is this material that protects mineral wool from all kinds of moisture.

Remember that excessive moisture contributes to the formation of fungus and without isospan, thermal insulation may not last as long as you would like. Speaking about the decoration of the walls in your bath, everything depends entirely on your financial resources and preferences. But it is best to protect the insulation from the outside using siding or wall paneling.

The preparation of the walls is reduced to the removal of various kinds of protruding fittings, air conditioners, old finish etc. If there are cracks in the brickwork, it is necessary to seal them up with cement mortar (to embroider), otherwise convective air flows will carry away heat from the bath through the insulation layer, and cold masses from the street will be sucked in through the cracks in the lower part of the walls.
First you need to drill holes for dowels to fix the metal brackets into the brick wall. The metal brackets themselves, namely the distance between them, must correspond to the selected dimensions of the insulation. Remember that the length of the brackets should slightly exceed the thickness of the insulation, otherwise the facade will be ventilated ineffectively, moisture will accumulate in the cotton wool.
Brackets are fixed with dowels, to which profiles made of aluminum or galvanized stainless steel are attached after laying the mineral wool slabs. The thickness of the mineral wool slabs is selected based on climatic conditions, for middle band For Russia, 15 cm slabs are enough or a two-layer installation of 100 and 50 mm insulation mats is acceptable. Cotton wool is inserted between the brackets, the installation is carried out from the bottom up, additional fixation is carried out by "fungi" - front dowels.

Note! The metal frame with brackets can be replaced with wooden planks. In this case, 50x50 mm bars are used, which are fixed vertically to a brick wall. Dowels are used for fastening, they are inserted in advance drilled holes in the wall. Holes for anchors are also drilled in the bars. The distance between the bars is chosen according to the formula "Width of insulation minus 1-1.5 cm". Plates with a thickness of 50 mm are inserted between the guides. When the mats are laid, the sheathing beams are horizontally fixed for the second layer of insulation, and both layers of insulation are attached to the wall with front "fungi". The last stage of work, both in the first case and when using wooden blocks, is to stretch the Izospan strips, glue its joints, after which the vertical counter-lattice is packed under the siding / lining.

"Wet" methods of brick bath insulation

The procedure for warming a frame building

The design of the frame-panel bath is very simple and relatively light, so we understand that it is not suitable for large-weight insulation. And although mineral wool is lightweight, complete with decorative trim, the weight becomes decent. Over time, this can lead to deformation of the walls of your frame-panel bath. Therefore, it will be much better to use polystyrene for insulation, because this insulation is much lighter, it will not contribute to deformation of the walls.

Styrofoam also has properties such as heat capacity and hydrophobicity. And there is no doubt that this material will serve you for many years. Do not forget that foam has a number of other advantages. When insulating with this material, you will not need to build a separate frame, the foam should only be attached to special glue.

As decorative finishing you can use plastering on the grid. But remember that this should be done only after you have laid the insulation and the glue is completely dry.

Due to the fact that many masters believe that when heated, the foam loses its shape and begins to gradually collapse, they still recommend thinking about using mineral wool when insulating the walls of your frame-panel bath. The choice is yours, because in any case there is a risk.

Video - Do-it-yourself frame bath insulation

Video - Rules and mistakes of warming a bath from the inside and outside

How to insulate a foam block bath

Many experts argue that a foam block bath should be insulated using the same technology that is used to insulate a brick bath. Others consider this opinion erroneous, all because the surface of the foam block is porous. From this it follows that a foam block bath must necessarily be protected from moisture from the inside, while a brick bath requires a waterproofing material.

For the insulation of foam concrete walls, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene. This is a fairly durable material with high thermal insulation properties and physicochemical properties, it can be easily mounted even alone. The only drawback is the possibility of damage to the insulation by rodents.

Thermal insulation of a foam block bath, the main stages of work

Important note. Aerated concrete bath is insulated according to the same principle as a cinder block bath.

For insulation, you can use basalt wool or foam with a thickness of more than 50 mm. The selected material must be placed between the battens (the installation procedure is described above). Make sure that there are no gaps between the batten and the heat insulator.

If foam is used for insulation, it is recommended to additionally secure it with front dowels or use glue, and glue the joints of the sheets with construction tape.

A waterproofing material is stretched over the layer of insulation, and overlaps of adjacent canvases of 10-15 cm are strictly observed and glued. Directly fixing the rolled material is done with thin slats of a counter-lattice. Further, the fastening of decorative facade panels will be made.

How to insulate a bath from the inside

The technologies for insulating a log house and a brick bath are very similar. Most craftsmen do not consider it necessary to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside, paying attention only to the roof, ceiling and foundation. So let's find out the reasons why the bath should be insulated from the inside and what technologies exist for this.

Why you need to insulate the bath from the inside

Diameter wooden crown in a log bath, most often it is 20 centimeters. If the caulking was done with high quality, then you will not need to insulate your bath from the inside at all. But there are still reasons why this is necessary:

it may happen that the diameter of the crown in the log house is small, which in the future will lead to poor thermal insulation;
the bath must be insulated from the inside in the event that the foundation was not insulated. Or it was insulated, but very weakly;
because of bad weather conditions, the insulation of the bath outside is insufficient.

The masters are sure that if it is enough to insulate the bath with good quality, then it will take 3 times less energy to heat it, and it will be possible to use a weaker stove.

The walls of the insulated bathhouse are very similar in structure to a thermos (sometimes it is called a "cake" of insulation). After all, those who are going to really insulate the bath with high quality will need steam and waterproofing.

The walls of the insulated bath have the following structure: a pre-prepared wall, a mandatory layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier and, of course, decorative trim.

If you choose the right quality material, then you can independently cope with the insulation of the bath from the inside very quickly. To insulate the bath, you will need material that will:

high quality, with high thermal insulation properties;
not prone to rotting, and will not be damaged by a variety of insects;
most importantly, the insulation must be fire resistant, because the temperature in the bath can be above 100 degrees.

Since not all materials are suitable in terms of quality and properties for the internal insulation of a bath, most often specialists use basalt wool. In addition to the fact that it has a very reasonable price, basalt wool is also suitable for other parameters. In addition, it is recommended to choose special synthetic boards that have a soft structure.

It should be remembered that, when insulating the walls, you should perform hydro and vapor barrier in parallel with thermal insulation, because these processes are closely related.

First of all, you should prepare the surface of the walls.

If you see any crevices or seams, then you should fill them with plaster. Also for these purposes, experts recommend using a sealant. Once you are done, you should move on to the next step - waterproofing.

Note. If your bathhouse was made of a log house, then waterproofing immediately after construction is strictly prohibited. To begin with, you should wait until shrinkage ends, often it takes more than a year.

How hydro and thermal insulation is made

First of all, the walls, floor and ceiling of the bath should be protected from moisture. It is best to use polyethylene film or special foil.

The insulation technology itself using foil is uncomplicated. The following should be done:

Note. All bars should be greased with a special antiseptic beforehand.

Bath decoration from the outside

Due to the fact that we already have the necessary wooden frame, we can only find high-quality material for the exterior decoration of the bath. Only after that the insulation of the bath can be completed. Most often, wooden lining is used for the external cladding of a bath in Russia.

In conclusion, to all of the above, it will not be superfluous to pay attention to interesting and useful tips specialists.

The microclimate in the bath room is unique. Competent arrangement of the building involves the insulation of the bath inside. This process is laborious, but quite feasible independently.

Information on how to properly insulate the bath inside will allow the owner to greatly improve its characteristics. After completion of the work, it will be possible to save on fuel and ensure the safety of thermal energy in the room.

Deciding how to insulate wooden bath from the inside with your own hands, a number of factors should be taken into account:

properties of the material used to provide thermal protection;
personal construction skills and capabilities;
own preferences.

Features of materials for thermal protection

To determine how and what is the best way to insulate the bath from the inside, you need to know in what conditions the materials will be used:

First of all, you need to take into account that the air in the steam room and in the washing room is characterized by high humidity. In the dressing room, it is unlikely to be dry. Taking these factors into account, we can conclude: you need to choose a non-hygroscopic insulation or the material must have reliable vapor and waterproofing.
In the steam room, the air temperature often reaches over 100 degrees. Insulation materials such as extruded polystyrene and polystyrene foam, under conditions of strong heating, will begin to emit substances harmful to human health. For the same reason, plastic and linoleum panels cannot be used to decorate the steam room. In the first case, products are subject to deformation even at 80 degrees of heat.
A significant part of thermal energy under high temperature conditions begins to be lost both due to heat exchange and in the form of thermal radiation. To prevent heat loss, the insulation for the bath on the walls from the inside must have a foil surface or a reflective layer consisting of foil must be provided in the thermal insulation scheme.

Insulation of different types of walls

The choice of how to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside depends on the type of material from which it was built:

If it is brick, stone or concrete products, thermal protection is required. The fact is that when there is no thermal insulation, the bath will have weeping walls and, as a result of temperature fluctuations, they will quickly begin to collapse. The thickness of the insulation should be chosen taking into account the parameters load-bearing structures and the climate in the region. Most often, experts recommend a 10 cm layer.
Is it necessary to insulate a wooden bath? On the one hand, the thermal protection of the building will not hurt, and on the other, wood can be called one of the best materials for the walls of the steam room and dressing room. Of course, warming of baths from a bar is required, with a wall thickness of no more than 15 centimeters. Sauna log buildings are thermally insulated when the cross-section of the log does not exceed 20 centimeters.

From the inside, walls of greater thickness are either not insulated, or heat protection is made with the arrangement of waterproofing and clapboard decoration. The lathing is arranged only if there are blockages on the walls.

The horizontally located strips of the vapor barrier are fastened with a stapler with a 5 cm overlap to prevent water from penetrating under the material. First, the lower canvases are hemmed. Polyethylene should not be used for vapor barrier due to the presence of high temperatures.

Selection of materials for insulation

Basalt wool is considered the best solution to insulate the bath from the inside. Rigid mats of 10 cm thickness are used. When thermal protection of the ceiling, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer should be about 15-20 centimeters, since heat loss mainly occurs through ceiling slab.

To insulate the bath inside, you still need to have materials at your disposal:

For lathing... The most reliable option for brick or stone bath buildings is to build a frame from a profile used for drywall (read: "How to insulate a brick bath with your own hands correctly"). The CD ceiling profile is often chosen, and the UD guide profile is used for edging along the perimeter of the walls. The step of fixing straight suspensions is from 60 to 80 centimeters. The gap between the profiles must be made less by 1-2 centimeters compared to the width of the insulation plates. IN wooden baths bars are used as a profile.
For water vapor barrier... A heat-resistant foil material is required that is impervious to moisture and vapor. There is a large selection of such products on the construction market. For example, you can buy foamed polypropylene, designed for temperatures up to 150 degrees. This material is able to protect the walls of a room from moisture and reflect radiant heat, thereby reducing heat loss. So a layer of Penotherm 3 mm thick provides a degree of thermal protection as a 150 mm bar.
For fine finishing... Usually they put insulation in the bath under the lining, as in the photo. This material is produced for finishing from linden or aspen, since the products of these tree species are resistant to decay processes, do not heat up even at high temperatures, and retain their original appearance for a long time.

Thermal insulation of floors, windows and doors

When a decision is made on how to insulate a bathhouse inside with your own hands, the possibility of increasing the degree of thermal resistance at the ceiling and walls is taken into account. True, a cool floor and the presence of drafts also take away a lot of heat.

To insulate the door leading to the steam room, a frame made of thick felt is attached to it, which will reliably cover the cracks. Wooden frames near the windows located in the steam room, dressing room and washing room are insulated with cotton wool.

As for plastic, it is not installed in places with high temperatures, but in other rooms you should not be afraid that polymers will undergo thermal decomposition. For protection plastic windows use self-adhesive foam rubber strips.

The choice of products, the better to insulate the bath inside, depends on the type of floor covering. Expanded clay is poured onto the surface of the leaking wood floor, and boards are mounted on top of the leveled backfill.

They begin to equip the concrete flowing floor by digging a pit 50 centimeters deep.

The layers of the thermal insulation structure are arranged from bottom to top in the following sequence:

sand –5 centimeters;
foam -20 centimeters;
concrete mixed in a 1: 1 ratio with foam crumbs - 5 centimeters;
waterproofing;
concrete, combined with vermiculite in a ratio of 1: 1 (this is the name of a natural material with low thermal conductivity) –5 centimeters;
reinforced screed -5 centimeters.

In the process of pouring the base, it is necessary to equip the slope. A boardwalk is mounted on top of the concrete screed on the logs.

In the case when a continuous floor covering is needed, a heat-insulating material is laid on top of the rough base with a layer of 10-20 centimeters, it can be mineral wool or foam. Then it is covered with waterproofing, not forgetting to overlap the walls. On top of this layer, a reinforced screed with a height of 5-10 centimeters is mounted.

Then, as a rule, tiles are laid. Despite the fact that the tiles do not heat up to a high temperature in the steam room, it is advisable to provide for the presence of wooden footrests to make the visit to the bath more pleasant.

Arrangement of thermal protection of walls and ceiling

Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the bath from the inside is similar to how it is done in other rooms, with special attention should be paid to the reliability of laying the vapor barrier layer.

Stage one - creating the lathing... The procedure for insulating the ceiling in a bath from the inside assumes that the distance from the battens to the base of the wall or ceiling should be made slightly larger than the thickness of the material for thermal insulation.

When using galvanized profiles, this gap is adjusted using hangers, and the bar is nailed with a lining, it can be a piece of a bar. For lathing made of wood, galvanized suspensions are also used.

The sequence of fastening the profile is as follows:

Along the perimeter of the walls or ceiling, the UD guide profile is fixed, observing a 60-centimeter pitch. It is mounted to a bar or logs with self-tapping screws, and to brick or concrete walls - screws with plastic dowels.
The axes of the CD profiles are marked, taking into account that the gap between them should allow laying the heat insulator plates without undercutting. Then suspensions are attached to the wall, observing a step of 60-80 centimeters.
To install and fix the CD profiles to the suspensions, they take metal screws 9 millimeters long. The free edges of the suspensions must be bent.

Stage two - installation of insulation... Basalt wool in slabs is placed between the bars (profiles). Similarly, the insulation of a ventilated facade or loggias is performed. Work must be done in a respirator (gauze bandage) and special glasses. The fact is that the small fibers of this material are volatile and, once on the mucous membrane of a person, greatly irritate it.

A standard sharp knife is used to cut the slabs. You should not accept the insulation during the installation process. Regarding how best to insulate the bath, you need to know that with a constant weight of the material, the less its volume, the worse its heat-insulating qualities will be.

Stage three - the device of vapor waterproofing... The strips of material in the horizontal direction are fixed from bottom to top, observing a 5-cm overlap. The foil side of the insulation should be turned inside the room.

The method of fixing the vapor barrier depends on the material from which the crate is made. So, before insulating a steam room in a log bath, you need to stock up on a construction stapler. If there is a galvanized profile, the strips are fixed with double-sided aluminum tape.

To create a high-quality vapor barrier, the insulation must not only be fixed, all existing joints should be glued with the same tape. Then moisture will not be able to penetrate into the insulation.

Stage four - clapboard sheathing... To make the room cozy and beautiful after the completion of the insulation, it is necessary to finish the walls.

First, the tools and materials necessary for the work are prepared, including:

circular saw or electric jigsaw;
drill - screwdriver;
rasp (required when fitting and processing the edge of the lining);
construction square (required for marking boards);
level and plumb line (they are in demand when checking verticals and contours);
metal clamps for fixing wooden lining;
copper or galvanized screws, which are needed to fasten the cleats to the bars;
self-tapping screws for metal;
skirting boards made of wood for finishing corners.

When carrying out work, you need to take into account a number of points:

There should be a small gap between the lining and the vapor barrier layer. In addition, gaps (no more than 1-2 centimeters) are arranged along the edges of the ceiling, as well as in the upper and lower parts of the walls.

The extreme boards in each row of the lining should be fastened with screws through and through, and their caps will be covered by the plinth. All other boards will be held by the cleats.

The above-described procedure for carrying out the work allows you to both insulate the old bath from the inside and a completely new building. Thermal protection of a bath building is a very important stage, since the efficiency of the steam room depends on its quality. The main thing in the work is to take into account the slightest nuances and then the result will exceed expectations.

For a long time in Russia, the walls of the bath were insulated exclusively with natural materials: felt, flax and moss were used, which are rarely used today. But any natural insulation has its drawbacks - birds and mice like to take it away, and the very insulation of the walls in the bath in this case requires special skill. Much better modern synthetic materials - more durable and no less warm.

Of course, how to insulate the walls of a bath seems like a simple question, but in fact there are many nuances here. And the more you know about this, the warmer and safer your bath will be.

For safety reasons for human health, it is better to insulate the inside of the bath exclusively with natural materials - for example, mineral wool. And it will be protected from moisture by heat-reflecting waterproofing films, sewn up from the eyes with clapboard.

Features of wall insulation from a log house

It would seem, why should the walls be insulated in log structures - after all, the bathhouse looks quite airtight when laid? The fact is that such a building material as a log house is characterized by shrinkage, from which serious cracks are formed. And through them, cold air penetrates directly into the steam room - which is absolutely not beneficial either for health or for finances in terms of unnecessary spending on fuel. Therefore, such a bath needs to be insulated, and the most effective method - This is mezhventsovaya caulk.

All that needs to be done is to lay out the insulation even during the construction of the log house, and at the end of the construction process the joint of adjacent logs or beams. After that, the fibers are packed with a hammer and caulk, and the seams are treated with a sealant.

Technology of the process of warming frame, block and brick walls

But the insulation of the walls inside the bath from the frame is more intricate - here you already need your own methods. After all, such a structure cannot withstand high loads and special weight, and therefore everything must be calculated, first of all, from the technological side. Those. insulation can only be used with a low weight. And foam like outer insulation simply irreplaceable for block buildings - it is not afraid of water, is lightweight and is attached with ordinary building glue.

The very insulation of the walls from the inside in the bath looks like this:

Step 1. Creates a frame on the load-bearing wall.
Step 2. The walls are sheathed with insulation.
Step 3. Waterproofing materials are attached to the insulation - a foil layer or at least a polyethylene film. They need to be overlapped, and all joints should be sealed with thin slats.
Step 4. Everything is sheathed with boards or clapboard - that's all.

Alternatively, use special PU foam plates.

Insulation of walls outside - how to wrap a bath in a "fur coat"

It is necessary to insulate the bath not only inside, but also outside - in order to fully protect it from external cold and significantly reduce fuel costs. And also high-quality external thermal insulation means a significant reduction in fuel consumption, control of humidity and a guarantee against mold and unpleasant odors. After all, the main task of external insulation of a bath is to shelter building structures, to protect them from contact with cold air and precipitation.

Further, how to insulate the walls in a bathhouse made of bricks and all sorts of blocks? The answer is simple: you need to create a good outer protective layer. The easiest way is to install a ventilated facade. Everything is very simple: a protective layer of waterproofing is applied, and then the wall is sheathed with siding, clapboard or even simple wooden boards.

But good old mineral wool is most suitable as a heat insulator for such a "pie": it is environmentally friendly, fireproof, soundproof and has low thermal conductivity. The insulation process itself looks like this:

Step 1. Brackets are attached, which are made in the form of squares. Between them - a step one centimeter less than the width of the insulation mats.
Step 2. Mineral wool is inserted - between the squares, which you need to acquire elastic, capable of withstanding significant pressure.
Step 3. The remaining joints between the boards are glued with construction tape and filled with adhesive.
Step 4. The walls are covered with a roll-up waterproofing, and it, in turn, is fastened with thin slats.
Step 5. Now - installation of guides, which are designed to hold the insulation and serve as a support for the cladding.

By the way, on modern market universal materials have already appeared that perform two functions at once - insulation and waterproofing. For example, foil-clad penotherm - expanded polypropylene, which is covered with aluminum foil and metal-sprayed levsan. It can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees and creates a really effective bath insulation.

It is early to rest and dream of a steam room with a broom, because it is necessary to insulate the structure. Brick walls have a high thermal conductivity, which means that it will take a long time to heat the stove, and the temperature will drop quickly. To preserve heat as much as possible, you need to figure out how to insulate a brick bath from the inside.

Why is internal insulation necessary?

The bathhouse is a room that is not used every day, therefore, during the cold period, its brick walls freeze through, and a lot of heat is spent on heating them. Outdoor decoration will not be able to significantly affect this situation, and the placement of insulation inside will make it possible to accumulate the temperature in the room and not waste additional resources.

The choice of insulation

For effective insulation from the inside, it is necessary to lay a layer of material with a thickness of at least 10 cm. The temperature in the bath rises to high levels, therefore, materials that do not contain toxic components that actively evaporate into the air when heated are selected for thermal insulation. The insulation should not support combustion so as not to cause a fire. Another important requirement is resistance to moisture, because the bath is constantly damp. Considering all the above factors, the following are recommended as insulation for brick walls and ceiling of a bath:

basalt wool;
styrofoam;
expanded clay for floor and ceiling;
foil penoplex.

Floor insulation

The base of the bath is concrete foundationthrough which cold penetrates unhindered. strip foundation from the inside will significantly reduce heat loss. The optimal way anti-freezing - thermal insulation with foam, produced in the form of plates. It is not afraid of moisture and freezing temperatures, so it will last for decades. Installation of the material is quite simple. The insulation is tightly glued to the concrete surface using mastic or an adhesive mixture, the joints of the panels are glued with a sealant, and the corners are blown out with foam. This layer will prevent cold from penetrating into the concrete foundation.

Note! Expanded clay will become an inexpensive and reliable material for insulation and waterproofing. The space under the floor is covered with a layer of granules 1.5–2 times greater than the wall thickness. Sand is poured under the expanded clay in a layer of up to 20 cm.

Insulation of a concrete floor begins with waterproofing. Most often it is coated with liquid rubber mastic or covered with roofing material. The top is thermally insulated with foam, which allows steam to pass through and is resistant to temperature extremes. The next step is to fix the reinforcing mesh and pour in the monolithic screed. After it dries, the floor covering is laid.

Expanded clay - suitable option for insulation of a wooden floor. Beams and logs treated with an antiseptic are laid on it. A vapor barrier film is laid on top, and subfloors are laid. Styrofoam is tightly laid on the edged board and covered with a waterproofing sheet. The final stage is the finishing floor.

Thermal insulation methods for bath walls

You can save heat inside the bath by making an additional wall of timber or by laying a thick layer of insulation. To erect a wooden partition, you will need a timber processed special compositionprotecting from moisture. Process technology:

The crate is fixed on the brick wall.
Using a stapler, the waterproofing film is fixed.
A wall of 10 × 10 cm timber is mounted, the lumber is fastened with self-tapping screws.
The second tier of the crate is stuffed.
A roll of fiberglass is fixed to the racks with staples. The material does not stretch, it is fixed with sagging.
Insulation is placed between the guides under the fiberglass. The insulation can be mineral wool or foam. The latter option is suitable for all rooms except the steam room.
Foil is fixed, which serves as a reflector of heat and wet steam.
Finishing wall cladding is being carried out.

The second option involves replacing an additional wall made of wood with a layer of insulation. The sequence of work will be as follows:

A waterproofing film is fixed on the brick wall.
An antiseptic treated wooden bar 5 × 5 cm is packed vertically. The distance between the uprights is chosen 1 cm less than the width of the insulation, which will allow the material to be tightly packed and not create cold bridges.
Insulation is laid with a thickness of at least 10 cm.
A waterproofing sheet is attached on top of the material.
The second layer of lathing from a bar is stuffed, similar to that used earlier.
Fiberglass is freely attached to the racks.
Insulation plates are tightly inserted into the spaces between the lathing timber and covered with fiberglass.
Next, a stapler fixes a layer of material that reflects thermal radiation. For a steam room, only basalt wool is suitable as a heater, the insulating layer is made of aluminum foil, which does not release harmful components when heated. In other rooms, for insulation and waterproofing, you can use penofol, which reflects up to 90% of radiation and is designed for temperatures up to 100ºC. The foil material is glued at the joints with aluminum tape.
Performed . The boards are fixed at a distance of 1–1.5 cm from the aluminum layer. This air gap is necessary for ventilation and separation of wood and aluminum foil at high temperatures.

Internal wall cladding is made of lining of various types of wood. For a steam room with high temperature and humidity, linden, cedar, larch are used. They have low thermal conductivity and high resistance to moisture. The rest room is sheathed with pine boards, the wood has a pleasant appearance, and when heated, it spreads healing substances.

Note! High humidity conditions affect metal fasteners, causing rapid corrosion. For self-tapping screws to last a long time, choose fasteners with galvanized coating.

The total layer of the insulating structure should be about 22 cm, then it will serve as an effective thermal insulation. In the pie, you can use several types of insulation, closer to the brick walls, where moisture penetration is possible, it is more correct to lay the expanded polystyrene plates.

Ceiling insulation technology

Hot air rises to the ceiling, so it's worth figuring out how to properly insulate it. A popular material for do-it-yourself thermal insulation work is basalt wool, which is resistant to high temperatures and environmental safety. Polyfoam is also suitable for this purpose, it is easy to cut and has a low thermal conductivity. To reflect infrared heat rays, you will need foil or material with a reflective layer. In some cases, improvised means are used for insulation - clay and straw or sawdust. They are mixed in a ratio of 2 to 3, moistened and placed on a crate with a step of 30 cm or on fiberglass. After drying, thermal insulation with a layer of foil is laid on the clay base, and sheets of plywood are stuffed on top.

Note! When working with mineral wool, it is important to perform high-quality waterproofing. The first layer will be a foil, spread with an overlap of 3-4 cm and glued at the joints with metallized tape. Then the insulation is tightly laid and covered with a vapor barrier film on top.

You can replace the cotton wool with foam, but lay only mineral material over the steam room. You can cover the insulating cake with boards or plywood. The interior decoration of the ceiling is made of the same material as the walls.

A well-executed brick-walled sauna will save fuel and enjoy hot steam.

Video

Watch an informative video about warming the walls of the bath:

How to insulate the walls of a brick bath from the inside? Inner wall surface it is most effective to insulate a brick bath with the help of natural heat-insulating materials that perfectly retain heat, but at all do not emit any harmful substances... In particular, sheets based on mineral wool, produced in the form of rolls or individual mats, are excellent for these purposes.

Only lack of such insulation - the ability to absorb moisture, which, by definition, is always abundant in any bath. Therefore, the heat-shielding layer will require additional waterproofing, which protects the mineral wool from steam and water.

Insulation installation procedure on interior walls will be as follows:

on a brick wall of wooden slats a supporting frame is being erected;
insulating material is laid in the resulting cells. In addition to mineral wool, more can be used here with great success. modern materials... For example, foil-clad foam is not only completely insensitive to moisture and temperatures of several hundred degrees, but due to the shiny surface of the foil, it is able to reflect heat back into the bathhouse;
the entire structure is covered with a layer of waterproofing (polyethylene, foil, etc. To ensure complete moisture resistance, the waterproofing material should be laid with an overlap of 10-20 cm. To give the joints additional strength, all joints should be fixed with thin and flat wooden slats.

In order to improve aesthetics, thermal insulation is usually not left open, but closed wooden clapboard.

In addition to the walls, the internal thermal insulation of a brick bath should include and measures to reduce heat loss through floors... The sequence of actions here will be as follows:

a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the subfloor cleaned of dust and dirt;
heat-insulating mats are lined and fixed in one way or another;
a layer of waterproofing is laid;
a finishing floor is equipped with the widest boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm.

It is very important to consider the material from which the sub floor is made. If it is formed by boards, then they will be required in advance treat with an anti-rotting agent.

The concrete subfloor itself is capable of playing the role of thermal insulation. Therefore, even at the stage of its arrangement, one should take care of imparting heat-saving properties. This is achieved by the following flooring technology:

a layer of sand about 5-10 cm thick is poured into the pit;
a solid heat insulator (foam) is laid;
a mixture of cement, sand and crumbled foam is poured;
sheets of roofing material are overlapped;
reinforcing mesh is lined;
a concrete solution is poured with the addition of fine crushed stone;
at a height of 10-20 cm, a finishing plank floor is created.

The resulting construction is advantageous in that it is ventilated... This means a significant increase in the service life of both the finished floor and the insulating concrete base underneath.

Thermal insulation of walls from the outside

External work on thermal insulation of a brick bath are carried out using the same mineral wool insulation, which retains heat well, is non-combustible and capable of performing the functions of a sound insulator. If rolled insulation is used, then it is easiest to fix it on the outer walls with wooden strips or slats.

When use of thermal insulation in the form of mats based on mineral wool, the work technology will be somewhat different:

of metal profile and corners, a crate is constructed, attached with dowels to the outer surface of the wall;
the lathing cells are butt-filled with heat-insulating mats;
the joints between the mats are glued with construction tape for strengthening;
a layer of waterproofing is applied.

The final stage will be wall cladding decorative materials (siding, lining, etc.)

Meanwhile, it is quite possible to use foam sheets to insulate brick baths. The procedure for warming a bath with foam heat-insulating material would be like this:

surface brickwork freed from all types of pollution;
possible flaws in the form of chipped bricks or deep seams are carefully plastered;
with glue, foam sheets are glued to the wall;
after the glue dries, the foam is additionally fastened with special dowels with wide caps. The dowels should be screwed in at five points of each foam sheet: a few centimeters from the corners and in the middle;
the joints between the sheets of the heat insulator are coated with glue;
reinforcement mesh is applied and fixed;
the resulting surface is plastered.

To give the wall extra strength plastering is best done in two layers.

Ceiling insulation

With poor-quality thermal insulation, up to a quarter of all heat can go through the ceilinggenerated by the oven. Therefore, to reduce losses, the insulation of the ceiling should be given no less attention than in the case of walls. The most suitable insulating material for these purposes is lightweight and non-combustible fiberglass.

Ceiling insulation works in the bath produced as follows:

canvases or mats made of fiberglass are laid out on the boards of the ceiling;
a mixture of equal parts of sawdust, sand and clay is poured on top. The optimum thickness of this layer is 20-25 cm;
after the previous layer has dried, sheets of foam are laid out on it;
the entire surface is filled with a small layer of cement screed.

In addition, an ordinary one can provide excellent thermal insulation. expanded clay... With a backfill thickness of about 30-40 cm, it will be able to reliably retain precious heat.

How to insulate a steam room

Thermal insulation of a steam room in a brick bath as a whole differs little from the creation of thermal insulation in the rest of the rooms of the bath. The differences consist only in the need for additional thermal insulation of the ceiling inside the steam room, as well as in the use of metal foil both on the ceiling and on the walls.

Procedure for insulating the ceiling in the steam room will be next.

The entire surface of the ceiling is covered with roll paper. At the joints, you need to create overlaps of 10-20 cm.
Wooden bars with a section of 5x5 cm are nailed to the ceiling. These bars will have a dual purpose: they will fasten the paper themselves and become the basis for fastening the outer covering.
The entire ceiling is sealed with metal foil. To fix it, it is best to use a special adhesive tape, on one of the surfaces of which a layer of aluminum is applied. There should be no breaks between the sheets or strips of foil as the penetrating hot steam will cause the ceiling to become wet. This is fraught with a deterioration in the heat-insulating qualities and can lead to the development of putrefactive processes.
Wooden slats are stuffed on top of the bars, to which, in turn, the main ceiling covering made of wooden lining will be attached.

In the same way, the foil is attached to the wall surfaces in the steam room.

As a cladding material in a steam room, it is best to use pine lining... Pine is highly resistant to both high temperatures and hot steam from the stove. In addition, due to the presence of a certain amount of resins, distillation from pine will give the atmosphere of the steam room a special aroma.

In general, the process of warming a brick bath does not cause any particular difficulties even for craftsmen without extensive experience in such work.

The most important thing - choose a suitable insulation that is resistant to high temperatures and high humidity. In the case of using moisture-fearing thermal insulation, it should be carefully isolated from the bath atmosphere or from precipitation in the case of outdoor work.

The choice of brick as building material for a bath, this is a great way to simultaneously solve several problems: to give the structure maximum strength and durability, to achieve the ideal geometry of the walls, and also to keep warm perfectly. but heat-saving qualities of bricks not so good as to guarantee the comfort of bath procedures in severe frosts. Therefore, even a brick bath without fail requires additional insulation.

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside

How to insulate the walls of a brick bath from the inside? Inner wall surface It is most effective to insulate a brick bath with the help of natural heat-insulating materials that perfectly retain heat, but do not emit any harmful substances at high temperatures. In particular, sheets based on mineral wool, produced in the form of rolls or individual mats, are excellent for these purposes.

Insulation installation procedure on the inner walls will be as follows:

a supporting frame is being erected on a brick wall from wooden slats;

In order to improve aesthetics, thermal insulation is usually not left open, but closed wooden clapboard.

In addition to the walls, the internal thermal insulation of a brick bath should include and measures to reduce heat loss through floors... The sequence of actions here will be as follows:

a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the subfloor cleaned of dust and dirt;

a layer of sand about 5-10 cm thick is poured into the pit;

Thermal insulation of walls from the outside

When use of thermal insulation in the form of mats based on mineral wool, the work technology will be somewhat different:

a crate is constructed from a metal profile and corners, attached with dowels to the outer surface of the wall;

Meanwhile, it is quite possible to use foam sheets to insulate brick baths. The procedure for warming a bath with foam heat-insulating material would be like this:

the surface of the brickwork is freed from all types of dirt;

Ceiling insulation

Ceiling insulation works in the bath produced as follows:

canvases or mats made of fiberglass are laid out on the boards of the ceiling;

How to insulate a steam room

Procedure for insulating the ceiling in the steam room will be next.

The entire surface of the ceiling is covered with roll paper. At the joints, you need to create overlaps of 10-20 cm.

In the same way, the foil is attached to the wall surfaces in the steam room.

In general, the process of warming a brick bath does not cause any particular difficulties even for craftsmen without extensive experience in such work.

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside and outside

Even with all the heat-saving qualities of bricks, a bath made of this building material requires additional insulation. Moreover, it is necessary to insulate not only the walls and ceiling, but also the floors throughout the bath area.

How to insulate a brick bath from the inside: advantages and technology of internal thermal insulation

A brick bath outperforms a wooden one in that the walls do not require special waterproofing and fire protection. Brick is absolutely not afraid of fire, and it does not saturate moisture much. But he has “ weakness»- high thermal conductivity, which prevents the bath rooms from warming up quickly and keeping warm as much as possible. The insulation of a brick bath helps to increase the thermal insulation properties of the steam room and other rooms. Without it, the heating time of the building increases by about 3 times, and the cooling rate is high. Consider how to insulate a brick bath and all of it structural elements using materials that are safe for health.

The private bath is used periodically, so it makes no sense to maintain a constant positive temperature inside. True, a cold brick in winter will freeze through and through, and if you start heating, then most of the heat will go to heating it. And what's the point of warming a stone? If you insulate the walls from the outside, then all the brick will be inside the cake, covered only with clapboard. And you have to spend money on heating it, whether you like it or not.

With internal insulation, the brick box will remain outside the cake, and a layer of insulation will insulate it. In this case, your costs for heating the premises will decrease, because the insulation will not let hot air out and, with proper installation, will give most of it back, inside the premises.

Internal insulation of bath walls

Consider options for how to insulate a brick bath from the inside.

Option 1. Create a second wall

Most often, second walls are erected inside the brick box. The material is a dozen timber, which by itself warm material and does not emit harmful components when heated.

Mount the cake as follows:

A crate is stuffed onto a brick.
A waterproofing film is fixed along the crate.
Lumber walls are mounted.
A second crate is stuffed over them.
Cover the beam with fiberglass, fixing it to the crate with a stapler. Fiberglass is not stretched between the battens of the crate, but an overlap is made, so that then it is easy to place the insulation.
Insulation plates are inserted into the spans between the crate.
To protect the heat insulator from internal steam, it is covered with foil or vapor barrier film on top.
The last is the lining.

Regardless of the type of insulation, its thickness should be at least 10 cm. To insulate the bath, heat insulators are chosen that do not begin to emit harmful substances at hot temperatures. For this, basalt or fiberglass heaters are optimal, which are not afraid of moisture. If there is a desire to close the bar with expanded polystyrene materials, then it is better to choose a penoplex. It has higher resistance to high temperatures than polystyrene, and in the event of a fire, this insulation tends to self-extinguish. But do not insulate the steam room in a brick bath with polystyrene. With strong heating (over 100 degrees), they will begin to char and release toxins. For the steam room, you should take only basalt materials.

Option 2. Double layer of insulation

Considering options for how to insulate a brick bath, you can stop at creating a double layer of insulation. Its difference from the 1st is that instead of timber walls an additional 10-centimeter insulation is laid in the crate.

The wall cake will look like this:

The thickness of the inner insulation cake will be about 22 cm.

When choosing a heater, line the first layer (closer to the brick) with extruded polystyrene foam. He is not afraid of moisture, so external vapors that have got through the brick are not dangerous for him. Choose the second, inner layer of insulation taking into account the room in which you will lay. In all rooms, except for the steam room, it is worth covering with foil-covered penoplex. This foam is coated on one side with a thin layer of foil that will simultaneously reflect infrared rays and act as a barrier to internal vapors.

For a steam room, it is better to choose basalt insulation, and from above cover it with special foil for baths. So you will avoid the release of harmful substances when the room is heated strongly. Joints in foil-lined insulation and foil are sealed with special aluminum tape.

Insulation of the foundation

The foundation is a powerful conductor of cold in the bath, because concrete materials are chosen for it, which are not characterized by thermal insulation characteristics. Even before the construction of brick walls, the upper part of the foundation is waterproofed with roofing felt or tar paper, so as not to let moisture from the soil into the brick. But this is not enough. It is necessary to carry out external insulation of the entire surface of the base walls in order to increase the level of heat saving of the floors and to exclude movements and shrinkage of the foundation. On Russian lands, many soils are heaving, i.e. in winter, when freezing, they expand their volume. As a result, the pressure on the foundation increases, and this leads to distortions and cracks in the foundation. If you lay a layer of insulation between the ground and the walls, it will soften the pressure and make the structure stable.

For insulation, it is better to choose from two insulation options: foam or sprayed polyurethane foam. In fact, both materials have approximately equal technical characteristics:

are not afraid of ground movements;
have increased compressive strength;
moisture resistant;
high level heat insulators.

You will have to choose based on your building skills and state of finances. So, spraying with polyurethane foam will cost significantly more than penoplex, but masters will make it for you in a day. In this case, the main advantage of such a heater will be a solid, durable coating, in which there are no joints. Those. moisture and frost will not be able to find loopholes to penetrate deep into the foundation slab.

Penoplex is produced in slabs, and they are fixed to the walls of the foundation with a special mastic or adhesive. Any owner with an understanding of construction can handle this. But it will not be possible to mount the insulation in a day. This is a slow process, because the plates must be tightly joined, all the seams must be glued, and the corner ones must be blown out with polyurethane foam.

Thermal insulation of floors

The floors in the bathhouse have to withstand both high humidity and temperature differences between the ground and the premises. Therefore, before the installation of concrete floor slabs, the entire subfloor should be covered with expanded clay or slag. Moreover, the layer of insulation cushion is calculated based on the thickness of the walls. If the walls are 20 cm, then the expanded clay should be 40 cm. The underground is not used in the baths, so fill the entire inner space of the foundation with insulation. This will provide additional dryness to the concrete or logs.

How to insulate a concrete floor

If the floors are concrete, then the insulation of the brick bath from the inside begins with waterproofing the floor slabs. They are coated with water-repellent mastics (for example, rubber), and a roll-up waterproofing agent is laid on top - roofing material or a special film.
Penoplex or polystyrene is laid on top of the waterproofing.
From above it is reinforced with a metal mesh and poured with a layer of concrete.
The last stage is pasting with floor tiles.

Wood floor insulation technology

It should be borne in mind that for baths, wooden floors are not too a good option, because wood is afraid of high humidity. But if you have conceived just such a floor, then first of all, take care of the quality of ventilation in the underground. Without it, logs and beams will instantly rot.

The expanded clay pillow, which was mentioned earlier, must be created in this case.
Beams and logs treated with antiseptics are laid on the top.
They are covered with a vapor-tight film.
Sub-floors are laid from edged boards.
Lay the foam.
Cover the insulation with a waterproofing film.
They are laying wooden clean floors.

Insulated ceiling: not afraid of heat and steam

If we consider how to insulate a brick bath in a complex way, then you must definitely pay attention to the ceilings. Most of the hot air leaves through them, so the blockade is simply necessary here. But the climate of the bath, especially in the steam room, is very different. high temperatures at the top of the structure, because both heat and vapors, according to the laws of physics, rush to the ceiling. This means that its design must be resistant to moisture and hot air. We exclude foam polystyrene materials right away, because in such heat they will harm human health.

If you study the insulation of a brick bath from the inside in the video, then most experts recommend insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool, but with mandatory double-sided waterproofing. Also, a good option is to lay fiberglass on the ceiling, two clay-sand layers (one with sawdust, the other with vermiculite) and on top of all this - foam. But again, for the steam room it is better to take not expanded polystyrene, but foil-clad fiberglass.

With proper insulation of a brick bath, you will significantly speed up its heating and reduce the cost of maintaining the desired temperature while vaping.

How to insulate a brick bath: choosing materials and a method of thermal insulation

Thinking over the insulation of a brick bath, it is better to dwell on the internal insulation of the walls, because the brick has a high thermal conductivity, and if you hide it

How to insulate a brick bath from the inside: useful tips

For the construction of a bath or sauna, brick is most often used. Therefore, even at the construction stage, an important component of it is the insulation of the brick walls of the bath from the inside, since the brick walls by themselves are not able to keep heat efficiently and for a long time.

The walls of the bath are insulated using a variety of materials, which will be discussed below, and from the article you will also learn in as much detail as possible how to properly insulate the bath from the inside so that the heat stays longer.

Bath insulation from the inside: list of materials

When you install the walls in the brick bath, and also equip it with doors, you will need to move on to interior decoration issues. Wall insulation should be done in such a way that the optimal temperature for the steam room and other bath rooms is maintained as long as possible. Also, in addition to insulation, it is also supported through decorative wall decoration.

Brick reinforcement is most often carried out with the help of multilayer thermal insulation, one of the layers of which consists of slabs, and the second of rolls of insulation, equipped with a foil-based coating. Such sauna heaters are capable of reflecting infrared radiation and protect the insulation from moisture. Now you will find out how to insulate a bath.

For warming the walls of the bath such materials can be used, as:

reed mats;
peat or cellulose porous plates;
polyurethane or polystyrene plates;
rolls or slabs of mineral wool;
glass wool.

Please note that insulators based on polystyrene and glass wool do not have sufficient heat resistance, therefore it is undesirable to use them to insulate the walls and ceiling for a steam room. And to reduce heat loss through the floor, expanded clay can be used as an additional material.

Consider stuff like foil-based sauna heaters, including rolls based on mineral wool with a thin layer of aluminum foil on one side, as well as sheets based on polyethylene foam.

Since foil is not a cheap material, you can save money by using Kraft paper for interior decoration where the humidity is not so high. In particular, in the recreation room and other premises where insulation can be made using less expensive materials.

How to insulate the floor in a brick bath

If you want to insulate your brick bath according to the given tips, then remember that they are suitable only for a newly built bath. Insulating a brick bath as part of its overhaul should be slightly different, although in general the algorithm of actions will be about the same.

Insulate a brick bath you need to start with the flooring... First of all, the floor should be insulated from the cold so as not to feel discomfort being barefoot in the sauna, even if it is as hot as possible.

To provide the floor with good thermal insulation, it is necessary to create an air gap between the foundation and the floor. To create it, install the beams for support on the base of the bath room and fill the gaps between them with expanded clay with a layer about twice as large as the thickness of the walls in the bath. On top of the supports, lay out logs of wooden beams, pre-dried and treated with an antiseptic.

Spread between them thermal insulation boardsthe gap between the joists and the insulation obtained as a result of work should be treated with polyurethane foam. Then lay the glassine on top of the whole floor, and on top lay the flooring of boards or plywood. And the main floor is also mounted on top, but we will not dwell on it.

Thermal insulation of bath walls: process features

When you have completed the process of insulating the floor, we begin to insulate the walls from the inside. Please note that it is not necessary to loosen or process a brick tub from the inside of the bathhouse, since this wall surface will later disappear behind the wood sheathing for the steam room.

The only thing that needs to be done is soak a brick wall in order to protect against bacteria, but this procedure is relevant only for rooms such as a steam room and shower.

The walls of a bath should be insulated in exactly the same way as other rooms, and not only baths. However, there is a number of process featurescharacteristic exclusively for this type of work:

to reduce the number of possible heat losses, close the gaps between the wall and windows with polyurethane foam;
the frame for mounting the cladding must be made of wooden beams, then attach it directly to the brick tub;
it is highly undesirable to use suspensions and metal profiles for work, since they tend to conduct heat;
insulation in the form of mineral wool or polystyrene plates is placed in the crate cells:
the insulation is attached to the tub with dowel-umbrellas or with a special adhesive;
if you are going to stick a heat insulator, then it is better to treat the brick wall of the bathhouse with a penetrating primer before that.

So, when the main insulation has already been applied to the walls, it is necessary apply a layer of vapor barrier as which you can use kraft paper, glassine or foil film, which, by the way, will be the most optimal material for a steam room and a shower room. For example, the same kraft paper, when used in places of high humidity, can become soaked over time and become unusable.

If need be, fill the counter grill on the lathing bars. This will create a gap between the outer skin and the vapor barrier. Then, the lining should be attached to the counter-batten using thin wooden strips.

When your bath or sauna has a large area and occupies several floors, it is not necessary to insulate the walls from the inside everywhere in order to prevent strong heat losses during its operation. If a loggia is attached to the bath, it must also be insulated. You should also install good entrance doors equipped with at least two sealing circuits.

How to properly insulate the ceiling in a bath

Insulation of a brick bath also includes work on the ceiling. The ceiling in a brick bath is also a source of heat loss, so you also need to take care of its insulation. This is primarily important if the sauna is located in a one-story room. The traditional method of ceiling insulation in a brick bath involves the following sequence of actions:

lay the fiberglass on top of the ceiling, then place the panels overlapping, connecting them to each other with adhesive tape or tape;
put a solution based on sand, clay and chopped straw on the fiberglass about 30 centimeters thick;
put a layer of foam on top of the layer of clay mortar, then fill everything on top with a 10 centimeter of cement mortar;
if you want to improve the thermal insulation characteristics of your bath, you can add it to the cement mortar add foam crumbs in a ratio of one to three or even four;
attach the lathing beams to the rough ceiling from the inside, placing basalt wool slabs between them;
cover the heat-insulating material on top with a foil film, and on top - sheathe clapboard, observing a gap of about 10 mm.

So, you have received basic knowledge on how to insulate a bath from the inside, spending a minimum of money and time on it and getting the maximum result. If everything is done correctly, then your bath during operation will perfectly keep warm, and you can get incomparable pleasure from being in it.

How to properly insulate a brick bath from the inside: insulation of walls, ceiling and floor, choice of materials

Insulation of brick walls of a bath from the inside: how to insulate a bath, how to properly insulate the walls, ceiling and floor in a bath, the algorithm of work and the choice of materials for insulation.

We make a brick bath insulation. Why is it more important from the inside, how to insulate brick walls

There are so many baths in the Russian countryside: log and timber, frame, cinder block, foam concrete ... Among them there are also built of bricks.

But, to be honest, brick is far from best material for bath construction... However, the circumstances are different: some of their own free will choose it, focusing on solidity, reliability and fireproofing, others already have a brick extension in the yard, but there are no baths yet, so they find use for what they have.

Anyway, such baths exist, which means you need to know how to achieve maximum comfort from them.

Do I need to insulate?

If about other materials and disputes are appropriate about whether or not insulation is necessary in their case, then there is no reason for doubt: insulation of a brick bath is mandatory. The brick has a high thermal conductivity, therefore, without insulation, the bath will heat up for a very long time, and, on the contrary, cool down very quickly.

Just imagine how much time and wood it takes to heat up walls that have had time to freeze at sub-zero temperatures. By the way, insulation is always compared to a brick wall, saying that where meters of masonry are needed, you can get by with a few centimeters of insulation.

However, the next question requires more detailed consideration.

Insulation of a brick bath: from the inside or outside?

In the event that you have to choose between which side it will be better to sheathe the bath with insulation, it is worth seeing what will happen in either case.

It is clear that when cladding from the outside, the entire brick of the building is inside a warm "fur coat", which means that it will have to be heated again, because in a room that is heated only from time to time, the temperature of the walls drops even if there is insulation. And again the lion's share of the heat will go to wasteas if you did not insulate your bathhouse at all.

If we insulate a brick bath from the inside, then all the heat will go to heating the air in the room, which, in fact, is what we need.

Now that we understand the mechanism of operation of insulation and have decided on the choice of side, it is worth talking about how the brick differs from other materials.

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath: features

If we compare bricks with other materials from which walls are erected, for example, with wood, frame or foam concrete, then the main difference will be that these walls are colder than others. In fact, a brick can be considered artificial stone, and this speaks both of the advantages and disadvantages:

Tree it shrinks much more and is flammable. But you can do without additional insulation.

Foam concrete is cheaper than brick, but it must be protected from moisture. But the presence of numerous air bubbles in it, which has a low thermal conductivity, makes this material warmer, which means that it requires less time to heat the room and retains heat longer. In low-rise construction, foam concrete has more advantages than disadvantages.

Frame structures are much less durable than brick ones, while they need insulation no less than the latter.

The creation of bricks with internal voids reduced the thermal conductivity of the material, but their use is limited to the thermal insulation layer, and the base load-bearing walls a solid brick remains. But even laying in several rows will not solve all problems with bath thermal insulation, therefore it is more profitable to insulate the walls of a brick bath by sheathing the building with insulation.

Thermal insulation of a brick bath: methods

To date, the owners of a brick bath can choose between several methods of internal insulation with a final finish either with tiles or clapboard. Let's start with the method where plaster is used:

The first layer on top of the brick wall is its waterproofing, for example, using bituminous mastic... For this, talc, asbestos and lime are added to the mastic. The resulting mass is applied directly to the walls.
Then the surface is plastered, and expanded clay and finely chopped slag are mixed into the plaster solution.
On the layer of plaster, a crate is placed, between the bars of which fiberglass is laid - a non-combustible heat insulator, similar to asbestos, but environmentally friendly.
A layer of insulation is placed on the fiberglass - for example, basalt or kaolin wool.
Then everything is closed with a vapor barrier, for example, foil or foil cloth.
Only the finishing layer remains - the same lining, for example. It is attached to a crate with a ventilation gap.

waterproofing;
lathing;
insulation between the racks of the crate;
vapor barrier;
reinforcing mesh;
plaster;
tile.

First layer on top inner surface the walls are waterproofed - either a film or the one described above.
A lathing made of a bar with a section of 5x5 is vertically packed. The step between the beams is equal to the width of the sealant minus 1 cm so that it lies tightly in the space.
Fiberglass is attached to the crate without tension.
Insulation, for example, basalt wool (not containing phenolic impregnation) is placed in the left gaps between the posts in two layers, with a shift of half the width in the second layer so that cold bridges do not appear. The total layer of insulation is 10 cm.
A reflective vapor barrier is placed on top of the insulation, for example, simple foil for the steam room and Penofol for the rest of the premises. The vapor barrier is overlapped and sealed with aluminum tape.
If the finishing is carried out with clapboard, then there should be a ventilation gap between the foil and it. To do this, a crate is made of bars of the desired section, on top of which the lining is attached.

The essence of insulation from the inside is shown on the example of a foam block wall, the principles are the same.

Another way is to build an additional wall from a bar:

The first layer on top of the brick is the lathing.
Waterproofing is attached on top of it.
A wall is being erected from a beam of 10x10 cm, self-tapping screws are used for fastening.
A crate is again stuffed on top of the timber.
It is covered with a little sagging fiberglass.
Insulation is laid in between.
Closed with a vapor barrier, for example, foil.
A ventilation gap is made using a lathing on which the lining is nailed.

Thermal insulation of a steam room in a brick bath

The main difference the steam room from all the other rooms of the bath is that it is here that the temperature reaches its maximum. In this regard, great restrictions are imposed on materials that, with such heating, begin to deform or release substances harmful to humans.

For example, if you decide to use mineral wool as insulation, then you need to look for basalt wool, because they do not apply to it phenolic impregnations... Do not use and combustible materials, reducing the risk of fire.

Second specific property steam room - high humidity due to steam. Therefore, the layer of insulation must be covered with a layer vapor barrier and at the same time achieve complete tightness with adhesive tape. It is also imperative to leave a ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and the finish.

Besides, it is in the steam room that the task of rapid heating and long-term preservation of the set temperature is set. This can help an increase in the thickness of the insulation and the use of foil as a vapor barrier... Both transforms the steam room into a real "thermos", that is, the heat does not find a way out and remains in the steam room. But the downside is the severity of a person's stay in such a steam room, which can be leveled by competent ventilation. However, the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath depends on the owner's personal preferences.

Floor insulation

A brick bathhouse with its thoroughness suggests that the owner does not intend to limit himself to warm days in order to steam in it. This means that of all types of floors at his disposal only:

They all need insulation, just a little differently.

Dry wood floor consists of a rough and a finish, between which there is a gap for the height of the floor beam. This space is filled with insulation. Foamed polystyrene foam will be the best - it is not afraid of moisture. Mineral wool and expanded clay need a hydro-barrier before laying the finished floor. It is also possible to insulate with ecowool and Aisinine foam. Alternatively, you can fill up the space under the rough floor with expanded clay, but for this you need to waterproof the soil in advance.

Concrete floor on the ground or concrete screed under the pouring floor are insulated in the same way:

The soil is removed by half a meter.
The future water drain is laid - a pit / ladder and pipes to the outside.
Fill in 15 cm of gravel and ram it.
Then 35 cm of sand and rammed.
This "pillow" is hermetically sealed with roofing felt.
A layer of insulation is laid: mineral wool, expanded clay, slag, felt with tar.
It closes with a hydro-barrier if the insulation is weeping.
Reinforcing mesh is laid.
A concrete screed is poured with the desired slope towards the drain.

Ceiling insulation

Warm air and steam are always collected under the ceiling. Therefore, the owner of the bath must definitely think about its insulation, so that the heat is not wasted.

This applies to any type of ceiling - hem, floor or panel, regardless of the top: cold attic or a warm attic.

The following requirements apply to the insulation used:

incombustible;
moisture resistant;
does not emit harmful substances when heated;
with low thermal conductivity.

In this plan good expanded clay - it is poured onto the waterproofed draft ceiling between the floor beams from the attic side. And then they are again isolated from moisture. Instead of expanded clay, you can pour a layer of ecowool.

Also it is good to use basalt wool without phenolic impregnation... But it easily absorbs water, so it needs high-quality insulation from water and steam. Cotton wool can be laid on top of the floorboards or hemmed at the bottom.

Styrofoam would be good for the ceiling, but it is flammable and, if poorly manufactured, emits harmful substances when heated.

A brick bath can become very comfortable, but it will require a large investment of labor and money from the owner. Therefore, it is worth going to the construction of such a bath only if it seems completely acceptable.

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside or outside, heat protection of walls, steam room, floor, ceiling

How to make a brick bath as comfortable as a wooden bath? We need wall insulation. To do this, you will need high-quality thermal insulation of the steam room and other rooms, the details of which are described in this article. Do it from the inside or outside, how to insulate the ceiling and floor, everything about insulating a brick bath

To figure out how to insulate a brick bath from the inside, you need to understand the performance characteristics of the wall material. Compared to a wooden bathhouse, a brick structure benefits from the fact that it does not require any treatment against fires or a waterproofing device. has only such a disadvantage as a low thermal conductivity. This prevents the bath or sauna room from warming up well, and the heat is far from being completely preserved. To increase the thermal insulation properties of the building, you can carry out.

In order for the bath to be warm, it must be built in one and a half or two bricks.

Which insulation is better - external or internal?

When it comes to a private bath, it doesn't make sense to keep the inside temperature constant above zero all the time. But due to periodic use in the cold season, the walls can freeze through and through, and when trying to flood the bath, all the heat goes mainly to heating the stone. When performing insulation from the outside, the brick almost does not heat up, it is covered only by the lining, so much more resources will be spent on heating than it could.

Thermal insulation of the sauna walls from the inside helps to reduce fuel consumption. When installed correctly, the heat-insulating material does not release the heated air outside, and it remains inside the room.

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Options for performing thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside

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Construction of an additional wall

You can insulate a brick bath from the inside by building an additional wall. A timber is used as a material for this, which by its characteristics is sufficiently heat-saving and does not emit components hazardous to health.

Installation of the insulating cake for the walls of the bath is carried out according to the following scheme:

A crate is arranged on the bricks.
Waterproofing is attached to the installed frame.
A timber wall is being erected.
Another crate is stuffed on top.
The beam is covered with fiberglass, which is fixed to the crate with a stapler. Do not stretch the fiberglass between the battens. An overlap is made, which will subsequently make it easy to place the insulation.
Tiled insulation is inserted into the gaps between the crate.
In order to create a fence for internal steam, the insulation material is covered on top with foil or film vapor barrier.
Last of all, the lining is nailed.

Regardless of what kind of insulation material is chosen, its thickness should not be less than ten centimeters. You just need to pay attention to whether the insulation emits toxic substances when heated.

Fiberglass or basalt materials that are not exposed to moisture are considered optimal. This can be, for example, penoplex - at elevated temperatures it manifests itself better than foam plastic, and also has self-extinguishing properties. But it is necessary to be careful to use polystyrene to insulate a brick bath - with strong heating, they can carbonize, which leads to the release of harmful substances. It is better to use basalt materials in the bath room.

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Insulation in two layers

When considering options for insulation, sometimes the best solution may be to create a double insulation layer, that is, instead of beams, an additional insulation 10 cm thick is laid in the crate.

The construction of the wall insulation cake will look like this:

waterproofing layer;
lathing;
insulating material;
waterproofing layer;
another crate;
fiberglass;
insulating material;
vapor barrier layer;
lining.

The total thickness of the insulating cake is about 22 cm. It is better to line the one of the layers of heat-insulating material that is closer to the brick wall with extruded polystyrene foam. This material is not afraid of moisture and will not absorb external vapors. The inner layer of insulation must be selected taking into account the characteristics of the building being repaired. All bath rooms, with the exception of the steam room, should be covered with penoplex - a foamed material with a foil layer, which will become an obstacle to water vapor.

For the steam room choose better materials from basalt, and cover with a special foil for a bath on top. So with strong warming of the air, toxic substances are released slightly less. Seal the joints of the material with aluminum tape.

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Why insulate the foundation of a brick bath

It is also necessary to perform thermal insulation of the bath floor. But measures for warming bath floors lose their meaning if the foundation is not protected from the outside. In a bathhouse, the floors are affected by both high humidity and temperature differences between the room and the ground. Therefore, before the floors are mounted, the subfloor should be covered with slag or expanded clay. There is no floor in the baths, so the inner space of the foundation must be filled with insulation.

In a building such as a bath, the foundation can become a powerful conductor for cold air - it is made of materials that do not have heat-saving characteristics.

When building a bathhouse, the top of the foundation is waterproofed with tar paper or roofing felt to protect the brick from moisture from the soil. But this is rarely enough. It may be necessary to carry out external insulation for all walls of the foundation. This helps to increase the degree of heat saving of the sauna floors and prevent shrinkage and movement of the foundation.

When choosing a material, you must first of all be guided by your building capabilities and the condition of your wallet. It is advisable to draw up work schemes before starting insulation materials. For example, the choice of polyurethane foam will be financially more expensive than penoplex, since the insulation is applied using special equipment. But the installation will be carried out in just a few hours, the coating is very durable, without joints. There are no loopholes left for the penetration of cold into the foundation.

A material such as penoplex is produced in the form of plates. They are glued to the walls of the foundation with an adhesive mixture or special mastic. Any owner of his own bath can do this work independently. But given view installation of insulation will take much more time - the plates must be well docked, the seams must be well sealed, and some - for example, in the corners - are better blown out with polyurethane foam.

How to insulate the walls in a brick bath. We insulate the bath with our own hands. Do-it-yourself bath insulation

Features of internal insulation of a brick bath

Bath insulation materials

Summarizing

How to insulate a brick bath with your own hands correctly

Materials used for insulation

Floor insulation in brick baths

Features of thermal protection of walls in baths

The procedure for thermal protection of the ceiling

Bath insulation from the inside: photos, diagrams and video

Features of thermal insulation of a log house

Brick bath and its insulation

How to insulate a bath from foam, cinder blocks and concrete

Warming rules for a frame bath

Features of ceiling and floor insulation

Drawing up a "pie" for ceiling insulation

Log house thermal insulation

Brick bath, the procedure for insulation

The procedure for warming a frame building

Video - Do-it-yourself frame bath insulation

Video - Rules and mistakes of warming a bath from the inside and outside

How to insulate a foam block bath

How to insulate a bath from the inside

Why you need to insulate the bath from the inside

How hydro and thermal insulation is made

Bath decoration from the outside

Features of materials for thermal protection

Insulation of different types of walls

Selection of materials for insulation

Thermal insulation of floors, windows and doors

Arrangement of thermal protection of walls and ceiling

Features of wall insulation from a log house

Technology of the process of warming frame, block and brick walls

Insulation of walls outside - how to wrap a bath in a "fur coat"

Why is internal insulation necessary?

The choice of insulation

Floor insulation

Thermal insulation methods for bath walls

Ceiling insulation technology

Video

Thermal insulation of walls from the outside

Ceiling insulation

How to insulate a steam room

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside

Thermal insulation of walls from the outside

Ceiling insulation

How to insulate a steam room

How to insulate a brick bath from the inside: advantages and technology of internal thermal insulation

Internal insulation of bath walls

Insulation of the foundation

Thermal insulation of floors

Insulated ceiling: not afraid of heat and steam

How to insulate a brick bath from the inside: useful tips

Bath insulation from the inside: list of materials

How to insulate the floor in a brick bath

Thermal insulation of bath walls: process features

How to properly insulate the ceiling in a bath

We make a brick bath insulation. Why is it more important from the inside, how to insulate brick walls

Do I need to insulate?

Insulation of a brick bath: from the inside or outside?

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath: features

Thermal insulation of a brick bath: methods

Thermal insulation of a steam room in a brick bath

Floor insulation

Ceiling insulation

Which insulation is better - external or internal?

Options for performing thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside

Construction of an additional wall

Insulation in two layers

Why insulate the foundation of a brick bath

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