Sheathing and insulation of the bath from the inside. How and with what to insulate a bath, sauna, steam room from the inside and outside. Why insulating a bath from the inside is a good idea

The bath has long been used not only to maintain the cleanliness of one's body, but is also famous for its excellent qualities to relieve fatigue, heal the body and make it possible to have a good time at the same time. And in our time there is no better option than to have your own bathhouse on your site. You can spend the whole day there with pleasure, changing visits to the steam room with tea drinking and chatting with friends. The main thing is that the steam room does not cool down quickly and keeps heat well. And for this you need to competently insulate the bathhouse so that all the interior rooms quickly warm up and can keep warm for a long time.

Peculiarities

In the good old days, bathhouses were built of round wood and did not get off with insulating materials. An indicator of warmth was a carefully selected wood, a high-quality log house and tightly caulked grooves between the crowns. The replacement of the insulation at that time was carried out with the help of moss, tow or jute and caulked in two steps - when felling a log house and after shrinking it.

Many people today prefer natural heaters., although drying is required before its use, but it is an environmentally friendly material. This process of warming is very laborious and lengthy, it requires a certain skill and skill. Poorly caulked seams will allow heat to pass through and moisture will begin to accumulate in the grooves, which will contribute to the decay of the tree and the rapid release of heat from the steam room.

Modern technologies have made it possible to find more than one alternative method of insulation.

Thanks to thermal insulation, well-insulated baths have a number of undeniable advantages:

• such a bath warms up longer, but also cools down for a long time;
• has the lowest heat consumption;
• it achieves the desired microclimate;
• there is a control over humidity;
• protected from mold and mildew.

And in order to achieve such results from the bath, you must first of all competently approach this process, although, at first glance, there is nothing complicated about this. For greater efficiency, the bath is insulated both from the inside and outside. External placement of thermal insulation helps protect the material from which the bath is made. But one external insulation will not be enough. IN different rooms baths need to maintain a certain temperature regime and humidity level. For this, internal insulation is provided, and for each private room select the appropriate material.

Types of heaters

In the modern market of building materials there are various types of heaters. And before you make a choice in favor of a certain one, remember that obtaining a healing effect will directly depend on the material you have chosen.

Indoors, preference should be given to natural and safe materials. The thermal insulation layer must be environmentally friendly. In the bath, each room has its own specific temperature regime, and at its high rates, heaters are capable of releasing toxic substances. This must be taken very carefully.

A fairly low indicator of hygroscopicity and thermal conductivity is an important requirement for finishing, because the lower it is, the less material passes heat through.

All heaters available on the construction market are divided into several groups.

organic

They have been known since ancient times. Even our grandfathers and great-grandfathers used this improvised material to preserve and retain heat in the bath.

In the production of organic heaters, natural raw materials are used:

• linen ordinary or resin-treated tow;
• sawdust from wood processing;
• felt or jute.

Their undeniable advantage is that they are all of natural origin, and the disadvantage is a high level of moisture absorption, fire hazard, difficulty in application and vulnerability to rodents and harmful microorganisms.

semi-organic

In the production of this material, natural raw materials are used, but with technological process adhesives are used. This insulation is not suitable for finishing steam rooms. These include chipboard and peat boards.

Synthetic

They are divided into several types.

• Polymer, which include polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, penofol, polyurethane foam. It is strictly forbidden to use such materials when sealing the steam room and next to the stove, because they can easily catch fire and emit harmful gas during combustion. But when used in adjoining rooms, they are very suitable. In steam rooms, only penofol is allowed, which is covered with a layer of aluminum foil and prevents heat from escaping.

• mineral wool- These include glass wool and basalt wool. They have excellent fire-resistant properties and are resistant to high temperatures. Their only drawback is that they absorb moisture. Basalt wool is recommended for use in the steam room.

Currently, leading manufacturers of thermal insulation materials have found a suitable option for warming baths and steam rooms. Now special mineral wool is produced based on stone or fiberglass. It is used for warming surfaces made of any material. This product is produced using modern technology and is made from broken glass and sand.

In the manufacture stone wool rocks similar to the gabbro-basalt group are used. This raw material is melted at a high temperature and fibers are obtained from the liquid mass, which are then formed into plates of various sizes. The resulting product does not smolder, there is no smoke from it, no toxic substances are released, and it prevents the spread of fire.

Mineral wool, produced on the basis of fiberglass, has elastic and horizontally arranged fibers owing to it the product differs in elasticity and elasticity. It is easily mounted in the structure and is able to fill all the empty spaces. The service life of this product is at least 50 years, but after time it shrinks. This is due to poor quality workmanship. Stone wool, on the other hand, is not deformable; with proper installation, it can last 50 years, and some types can last up to 100.

At present, fiberglass mats from such manufacturers as Ursa, Isover, Knauf and stone wool insulation Rockwool and Technonikol have found wide application on the Russian market.

When insulating steam rooms, the material must withstand high temperatures and not be affected by fire, so it is better to use foil plates. The surface on which the layer of aluminum foil is applied must be directed inside the room. It will insulate the material to reflect heat and keep the material from getting wet. When installing it, there is no need to use a vapor barrier.

It is worth noting that today most often baths are insulated from blocks of mineral wool, foam plastic, foam glass and ecowool. You can choose the most suitable option for you.

Step-by-step instruction

The process of insulation and installation of the material itself is nothing complicated. Insulation is in rolled rolls or presented in the form of plates different sizes. Guides are attached to the surface, and insulation is laid between them. For this operation, wooden bars will be required, the thickness of which should be equal to the thickness of the mounted mats. If you decide to lay insulation with a thickness of 10 cm, the bars must be of the appropriate size. The bars can be attached with self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors, it depends on the material of the wall.

Counter rails are attached to the main racks at a distance of 50 cm from each other to create an air cushion between the vapor barrier and the cladding. This method is used for both internal and external insulation. The only difference in insulation from the outside is the material used in the construction of the bath.

When choosing thermal insulation from the outside and the method of insulation, the important point will be what material was used in the construction and the climatic conditions of the region. wooden bath no need to insulate from the street. Wood material is able to cope with this problem itself, it retains heat perfectly, and insulation between the rows is a good thermal insulation. But over time, the wooden log house shrinks and gaps form between the rows, which contribute to the escape of heat. To remove these gaps, it is necessary to caulk the gaps between the crowns with natural material or use basalt wool. Its structure allows you to maintain the desired microclimate and helps the tree "breathe". This method is suitable for those types of baths that are assembled from ordinary timber, professional timber, ordinary and rounded logs.

To give heat to the frame bath, it is recommended to use soft types high-density insulation, which are protected from moisture, as they are mounted inside the frame. You can use a mixture of sawdust, wood chips, gypsum and lime, which will serve as an excellent barrier to heat loss.

Brick baths, although they have a high thermal conductivity, it is not uncommon to see them. A wall made of brick, without good internal heating, can quickly freeze. And in the baths, as you know, in winter there is no constant heating. To eliminate this drawback, in most cases, a frame of wood material is constructed inside such baths, which is then finished and serves as a decor.

Often, when building baths, foam blocks and gas blocks are used. This material, due to its porosity, is able to keep heat well, but it does not have an attractive appearance and it can absorb moisture. In this case, this material requires external insulation. The main feature of the insulation process is to provide ventilation between the wall and the insulation. Therefore, in such baths it is recommended to leave the products.

The internal insulation of the walls in the bath is directly related to what this or that room is intended for. The most basic component of the bath is the steam room. The temperature in the steam room of a Russian bath can reach 90 degrees, and saunas - up to 130. It is difficult to maintain such heat for a certain time if the steam room does not have high-quality insulation. When carrying out this process indoors, it is recommended to use only natural, natural materials, which, when high temperatures oh don't allocate harmful substances. In such cases, basalt wool or natural heaters are perfect.

When insulating the surface in a foam concrete bath, it is necessary to attach guides from a bar or metal profile. With a small height, you can get by with some vertical racks and use cotton wool with a density of 65 kr / m. cube The width between the vertical slats should be 15-20 mm less than the width of the stacked wool.

In the steam room frame structure only wood material should be used. To equalize temperature differences on the wooden bars of the frame, it is necessary to make vertical cuts, through which the timber is attached to the surface with a hardware. The presence of such grooves contributes to the guide to go along the wall during shrinkage, if the bath is assembled from wood material. A vapor barrier film is attached inside the structure.

In the steam room in the form of a vapor barrier, it is desirable to use penofol, which is laid inside the room with a reflective layer. The place of docking must be glued with foil tape. Then, mineral wool is mounted on the reflective layer, which is then covered with a vapor barrier film. A 25-30 mm rail is nailed onto the frame itself in order to pass air between the film and the material that will be used to finish the surface. And at the last moment, the insulation is closed with a finishing material, most often in a bath it is wood material.

In a bath made of timber or other material made of wood, jute is used inside for insulation. This procedure is carried out using a wooden mallet - a mallet, a chisel and a spatula for caulking. Jute is placed on the gaps between the rows and is tightly driven in with these devices.

A washing room, a dressing room or a rest room can be insulated with polystyrene foam, since it is relatively not hot in these rooms. The process is similar to the previous one, the frame is also installed. The distance between the vertical posts should be equal to the width of the foam, so that it fits snugly between them. The foam does not need to be protected from moisture, so the film is not used. You can also attach these sheets to the wall with glue, but this option is only suitable for brick or foam concrete coatings. After the foam has been fixed, you can proceed to the fine finish.

An important place in the warming of the bath is the process of warming the roof. A large amount of heat can escape through it. For its insulation, any heat-insulating material that can be laid on the attic floor is suitable. This process is similar to the process of wall insulation.

Start the process of sealing the bath from heat loss, as well as at home, should be from the ceiling. All the heat is collected under the ceiling, so poorly insulated, it can cause cold bath. The technology of this process will depend on the material used. The best option for sealing the ceiling in the bath is the use of basalt wool. It is laid in the same way as wall insulation, starting with the frame equipment.

If you decide to insulate it with sawdust or expanded clay, you should do it on attic floor frame between the floor beams and place the provided material there. It must be remembered that a chimney also goes into the attic, so it is necessary to lay basalt wool around it, because it has high fire-resistant properties and does not lend itself to combustion, and mount a protective screen made of stainless metal sheet.

The floor covering in the bath can be made of wood and concrete. In order to prevent cold air from entering the bath through the floor, it is insulated with expanded clay or foam. When insulating with expanded clay, it is necessary to disassemble the subfloor and remove a layer of earth 40-50 cm below the threshold. Then waterproofing is laid, for this an ordinary film or roofing material is suitable. On the sides, the ends of this material should protrude beyond the floor surface.

At the next stage, a rough screed is made or a 15 cm pillow is made of crushed stone and sand, on which expanded clay is poured. Its minimum layer should be 30 cm, otherwise there will be no proper effect from the cold. A cement mortar 5-7 cm thick is poured onto the expanded clay surface, while taking into account the angle of inclination to the drain. And at the last stage, the finishing floor spreads. In principle, expanded clay can be poured into a frame of boards prepared in advance in the floor and a waterproofing layer can be laid on it, and then a finishing coating of wooden board. But this insulation is not suitable for steam rooms and washing rooms, where there is a high moisture content.

But if you are faced with a choice of how to insulate the floor in the bath, you should opt for concrete floor for finishing floor tiles, provided that it is a washing room or a rest room, or on a wooden one, but it is preferable to lay it in a steam room. But a concrete floor is much better at transferring moisture, so its lifespan is longer than a wooden one.

There is also a more practical method of floor insulation - this is the use of foam plastic as a heater. But in the steam room this species insulation is not suitable, because this material emits harmful substances at high temperatures. Therefore, it is more expedient to use it in less warm rooms. To implement this option, you need to get rid of the old screed or wood coating and get the soil. Then we fill in a rough screed with a thickness of not more than 10 cm and lay penoplex or other heaters of this type on a flat surface. We lay on the laid out insulation metal mesh and make a cement screed 5-10 cm thick. And after the mortar has hardened, we carry out the flooring of the final floor covering.

There is another way to insulate the floors in the bath, and it finds an increasing number of adherents - this is the "warm floor" system. This process consists in the fact that pipes are poured into the concrete floor, warm water circulates through them and the floor covering is heated. But in this case, it is not about how to insulate, but how to heat the floors, and these are slightly different concepts, but the essence is the same.

Insulation of doors and window openings from the side of the facade also helps to significantly increase the warmth in the rooms. To this end, the doors in the bath are made as small as possible, especially in the steam room. Windows are mounted as close to the floor as possible and dense double-glazed windows are installed, while seals are installed around the entire perimeter of doors and windows.

In the steam room, to save heat, you need to completely abandon the presence of a window, and in the washing room you can install one small one in order to ventilate this wet room.

An ordinary sharp knife is used to cut mineral wool slabs. It is not recommended to seal the insulation during installation, because the smaller its volume, the less heat-insulating properties.

If in the steam room flooring made with tiles and even if it does not heat up much, wooden footrests are a must.

Do-it-yourself wall insulation near the stove is provided only with basalt wool with a protective screen using a stainless steel sheet.

There must be a distance of 1-2 cm between the finishing material and the vapor barrier. Also, small gaps are left along the edge of the ceiling and at the bottom of the wall.

All the benefits of a bath may be unattainable if at the stage of its finishing the question internal insulation has not been worked out carefully enough. Even with proper construction according to a time-tested project, the walls of the bath without additional thermal insulation will not be able to retain heat acceptably. And this means a decrease in comfort during bath procedures, and an increase in the cost of kindling. Meanwhile, there are many options how to avoid unacceptable heat losses.

The better to insulate the bath from the inside

What materials to use for internal insulation of the bath? The longest in the practice of building baths are used natural materials, which have been available throughout the history of the existence of such structures. Our ancestors often insulated the inner surfaces of the bath walls with improvised materials: hemp hemp, linen tow, moss, etc. All of the above is used today, because. natural materials have a very significant advantage over other thermal insulation: they are absolutely environmentally friendly.

However, natural insulation has some features that significantly reduce their attractiveness. Firstly, the process of finishing the bath with natural thermal insulation is a very, very laborious process. Even with all the simplicity of the technology, caulking a bath with moss or tow will take an excessive amount of time.

Secondly, natural materials are attractive not only to the owner of the bath. Birds and small rodents love to take them away for their own needs, and insects can easily start in the moss layer, which also do not contribute to the durability of the material. Therefore, the insulation of a bath from natural materials requires regular updating.

More modern synthetic materials completely devoid of these shortcomings. With no less environmental friendliness, they have a much longer service life, and thermal insulation parameters even superior to natural alternatives.

In addition, synthetic materials are not at all afraid of exposure to moisture and high temperatures characteristic of a bath, they are distinguished by their low weight and simple technology for working with them.

Among the synthetic heat-insulating materials suitable for interior decoration of the bath, most widespread expanded polystyrene, basalt fiber, mineral wool and glass wool. When deciding how and what is better to insulate the bath inside, it is necessary to understand that for the same purpose, each of these materials also has some differences.

1. Styrofoam. Its main feature is good combination excellent thermal insulation, low cost and low weight. However, in relation to the bath, this material can only be used to insulate the outer walls of the dressing room. In the washing room, due to the high temperature, polystyrene foam can lose its shape, thereby violating the thermal insulation. It is generally unacceptable to use this material for warming the steam room, since it is a fire hazard.
2. Basalt fiber insulation cannot boast of a pleasant price tag, but in relation to the bath they can become ideal solution. Since basalt fiber is produced from molten rocks, it has some important features:

• absolute incombustibility;
• resistance to mechanical deformation and moisture;
• excellent level of sound absorption;
• excellent thermal insulation.

Basalt insulation is quite convenient for finishing, as it is perfectly cut into pieces of the required shape. Their service life, which can reach several decades, is also noteworthy.

Mineral wool. The technology of its manufacture is in many ways similar to the production of basalt insulation. However, instead of rock in the production of mineral wool, much cheaper waste from the metallurgical industry is used. And this most positively affects the cost of such thermal insulation.

Other benefits of mineral wool include:

• low thermal conductivity (guarantee of the reliability of thermal insulation);
• hydrophobicity, allowing the use of mineral wool in conditions of high humidity;
• ability to absorb sound.

Meanwhile, mineral wool, due to the characteristics of the raw materials for its manufacture, does not differ in mechanical strength. Therefore, when working with such material, it is desirable to exercise some caution.

Video on how to properly insulate the bath from the inside.

glass wool. At its core, this heat-insulating material is an interweaving of thin fibers of inorganic glass. Therefore, glass wool contains a significant amount of air in its volume, which ensures the ability to perfectly retain heat with good vapor permeability.

One of the significant advantages of glass wool over analogues is the relatively low cost. In this case, it is always possible to choose a heater of the required thickness. Both rolls of glass wool of different widths, as well as industrially cut mats and slabs are on sale.

And in this photo one of the schemes for warming the bath from the inside.

Warming the bath from the inside

Warming feature internal walls in the bath is a high level of humidity. Therefore, even in the case when thermal insulation insensitive to moisture is chosen, insulation will be required. securely cover with a layer of vapor barrier. If this is not done, then moisture will begin to condense inside the insulation material, which is fraught with a decrease in the ability to retain heat and the likelihood of rotting of the wall material.

As a vapor barrier for baths, aluminum foil can be used, which not only protects the insulation from condensation, but also reflects heat to a large extent. To ensure the integrity of the vapor barrier, all seams between sheets of foil should be glued with metallized tape.

Since the conditions in the bath in different rooms are significantly different, the insulation technology will vary significantly.

1. Wall insulation in the steam room.

Here the sequence of actions will be as follows:

• on the surface of the walls is hung a crate of dry wooden beam or rails;
• the cells formed by the laths of the crate are covered with a fiberglass cloth;
• heat-insulating material is laid (basalt is best);
• a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of everything.

The final stage of wall insulation in the steam room will be the installation of decorative trim. As such, it is best to use a wooden lining.

Another video about warming the bath from the inside and how to sheathe the steam room inside.

Ceiling insulation.

This operation is in many ways similar to improving the thermal insulation of walls. The differences will be that when insulating the ceiling in the washing room and in the dressing room, you can refuse to use aluminum foil as a vapor barrier. Instead, it is quite possible to use cheaper polyethylene or kraft paper.

In addition, it is worth leaving a gap of 1-2 cm between the vapor barrier layer and the decorative ceiling cladding. This distance will improve the ventilation of the cladding material to speed up its drying. This moment is quite important, because during the bath procedures, the ceiling lining is exposed to the damaging effects of moisture at very high temperatures. The presence of a gap will allow the tree not to rot, but to dry out without compromising its operational and aesthetic qualities.

Floor insulation.

Heat loss in the bath can occur not only through the walls or ceiling, but also through the floor, which is especially important in winter time. Therefore, the floors must also be carefully insulated. The sequence of actions for floor insulation will be as follows:

• on a leveled and compacted base of the earthen floor is poured concrete screed;
• after the screed has hardened, a waterproofing layer of dense polyethylene or roofing felt is lined;
• sheets or sheets of insulation are laid;
• another layer of waterproofing is lined;
• poured another layer of concrete screed.

Since the floors in the bath are constantly in contact with water, when they are insulated, the thoroughness of laying the waterproofing should be given the greatest possible attention.

It is very important that water, even with minor damage to the top layer of the concrete screed, cannot penetrate into the insulation layer and thereby deprive it of its heat-insulating qualities.

Having solved the problem of how to properly insulate the bath from the inside, you can get a guarantee that it will be possible to quickly warm up all the rooms even in severe frosts. The sauna event itself will become much more comfortable, as the temperature will be consistently high.

This is especially important for lovers of a strong steam bath, because with insufficient thermal insulation of the steam room, the procedure will lose its attractiveness. Using the same modern insulating materials, you can permanently get rid of such problems.

The most important question when designing a bath, it becomes warming and the ways in which this can be done as efficiently as possible.

Peculiarities

Most of the time, the bath was used only as a special room for hygiene procedures. Keeping heat in wooden buildings during the winter season was quite difficult. In Rus', with its harsh climatic conditions, the bath served purely for washing. However, the ancient Greeks spent time in their terms discussing politics and art, war and peace. Turning to the present, we can conclude that our attitude to the baths has adopted the features of ancient times. Banal to maintain hygiene allows the shower, and the bath is predetermined by the recreational role. With modern technology and materials, it is easy to set a comfortable temperature on any day, despite the cold weather.

The most important function of the bath is the steam room. The temperature in it is traditionally defined as 90°C and 130°C.

materials

A good choice of insulation will help taking into account several important characteristics. High-quality material must have a vapor barrier, otherwise the penetration of moisture will worsen its condition and stop heat retention.

The raw materials that form its basis must meet environmental standards, otherwise the high temperature will provoke the release of toxins that pollute the environment and harm human health. The heat in the room will linger for a longer time with a low degree of thermal conductivity of the insulation. The material must meet fire safety standards - its combustibility must be minimized by correctly correlating the type of insulation coating and the temperature in the bath room.

The low hygroscopicity of the warming agent will protect the surface of the bath from the penetration of moisture from inside the room. The warranty period is longer for insulation with high water repellency. The insulating material must be able to retain its shape for a long time and not shrink, as a result of which the heat in the bath will remain for a long period.

The range of insulating materials is represented by three groups. Organic heat insulators have long been used to retain heat in the bath. They are made from natural eco-friendly raw materials. A common option among them is tow with or without impregnation of resin, wood sawdust, layers of moss, reeds, dense fibers of felt or jute. Natural ingredients are absolutely safe for human health, but have many negative qualities. The vegetable base of the insulation contributes to easy flammability, therefore, the level of fire safety of the building is reduced.

The dry structure of the substance is susceptible to moisture, which it absorbs from the air. The presence of water in the insulating layer contributes to its cooling under the influence of the temperature outside, as a result of which the bath cools down faster. Creating a thermal insulation layer from organic raw materials is a laborious process, the implementation of which requires experience in this field from the master.

Organic materials are attractive to small rodents who perceive it as food. Plant mass is a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms, the growth of mold and fungus.

The second option is semi-organic heat-insulating materials, the manufacture of which is carried out by analogy with the previous type, but with the addition of glue. Interaction of natural herbal ingredients with an adhesive base gives the insulation layer strength and hardness.

The insulating structure has a tiled appearance. Reed, peat and chipboards keep the heat inside the sauna for a long time. Exposure to steam adversely affects the bonding agent, diluting it, so the use of semi-organics is unacceptable in rooms with a high degree of air humidity. It is not recommended to lay tiled insulation in the steam room, where the moisture content in the air is maximum. This material is more suitable for warming the dressing room rooms.

The third type of insulating coating is synthetics. The variety of synthetic materials falls into two categories. Polymeric heaters include polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. Their use is limited - the coating should not be allowed to be in the high temperature area. Strong heating of the polymer causes an internal chemical reaction, resulting in the formation of styrene, the vapors of which are harmful to human health. Also, high temperatures can cause a fire in synthetic insulation, so its use will be appropriate in a cool rest room.

Penoizol insulation, the only synthetic-based insulation material, is approved for use in steam rooms. On top of the polymer is a layer of thin aluminum foil that prevents heating to a dangerous level. Mineral heaters are allowed for use in any part of the bath. They are represented by two subspecies - basalt wool and glass wool. They are highly resistant to fire and high temperatures.

You can choose a structure from cinder block, expanded clay concrete blocks, gas block, gas silicate bricks. You can insulate the old building with foam or foam glass. For a cinder block or block system, chopped sawdust is most often chosen.

Warming scheme

The highest temperature in the bath is maintained in the steam room or in the sauna, while the dressing room is located on the border with the street, so it is constantly subject to slight cooling. Rest rooms are less dependent on the type of heat-insulating material, their air is specially warmed up weakly.

The process of laying the insulation is formed depending on the material of the structure of the bath. Built recently, due to the low thermal conductivity of wood, it does not need careful insulation. After 2-3 years, a wooden frame shrinks and crevices appear between logs or beams. To insulate it, it is recommended to caulk between the crowns using natural material in order to maintain the microclimate inside the building.

wooden building from a log or timber requires time to dry. After drying, gaps form between the parts, through which cold air flows into the interior. Jute fiber is used to fill narrow cavities between wooden elements, as it compacts well. Laying insulation directly during construction will facilitate the work. The final study of small areas is carried out after construction is completed using a mallet and caulk. The laying of insulation material in a brick bath is necessarily carried out during the construction process, since the brick quickly gives off heat.

The traditional scheme of insulation is a ventilated hinged facade. A layer of insulation is placed on the outside of the walls, after which it is sheathed with siding or clapboard. A space filled with air is formed between the layer of insulating material and the outer coating. The presence of an air layer serves to preserve heat, prevents the formation of condensate vapors, the reproduction of putrefactive bacteria and the development of dampness. An alternative way to insulate the steam room is to install a wooden structure around it. The heat-insulating properties of wood replace the insulating material. To do this, you need a beam, crate, stone wool, foil insulation and lining.

The surface of the beam is upholstered with a crate, then with stone wool. A foil insulation is applied to the layer of mineral material, after which the lining is finished with a clapboard. A panel-type bath implies light-weight heaters - reed plates, mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Before laying a heat-insulating coating, panel walls must be treated with lime milk to eliminate the impact of negative factors. After drying, the lime structure will provide the bath building with fire resistance and resistance to decay processes. When a bath is located in a territory with a cold climate, it is recommended to insulate its walls with fiberboard or reed plates. In mild climatic zones, it is preferable to use gypsum or sawdust material.

Calculations

Before the start of insulation, the working area is limited. Areas not intended for this are pasted over with roll paper to avoid contamination. To insulate the ceiling and walls, you will need a 5x5 mm beam-rail. To secure the future layer of insulation, a crate is needed. For a brick bath, it is preferable to choose a drywall profile. The suspensions are fixed on average after 0.7 m, the distance between the profiles should be slightly less than the height of the insulation.

In a wooden bath, it is recommended to use bars. Insulation with bulk materials is accompanied by maintaining a distance between the bars of 45-60 cm. The fastening of the lathing parts occurs with the help of dowels, self-tapping screws in the case of a wooden surface, or anchors with a stone base. Depending on the building material the length of the mounting hardware is selected. For wood - 2-2.5 cm, for denser structures - starting from 4 cm. The length is associated with the peculiarities of the use of fasteners.

During the installation of the crate, the fasteners are selected with a length that provides a strong fixation of the beam or drywall. The size of the beam section is determined taking into account the thickness of the heat-insulating layer being laid. When insulating with organic or semi-organic material, to ensure a long service life, it is imperative to use a vapor barrier film. Foil, electrical tape, self-tapping screws are auxiliary tools during work. For thermal insulation of the surface, foil tape is required. 1-2 coils are enough for the entire volume of the treated area. They glue the joints of the tile insulation to create a solid sealed plane. Of the tools in the process of insulation, you will need a knife, a level, a screwdriver and a plumb line.

Depending on the surface and its location, the amount of insulation required is calculated. When calculating the mass, it is necessary to take into account the rough costs and possible errors, which also consume material. For example, for a mixture based on sawdust, you will need: 10 parts of sawdust, 0.5 parts of cement, 1 part of lime and 2 parts of water. Another recipe for preparing an almost similar mass includes 8 parts of sawdust, 1 part of gypsum and the same amount of water. The composition of such a mixture includes 5 parts of sawdust and clay.

Installation

A step-by-step instruction for warming a bath consists of several stages. To begin with, it is worth creating thermal insulation of openings. Leaky doors and windows allow a significant amount of heat to pass through and are an entry point for cold air from the street. Therefore, it is recommended to make the door to the steam room small, with the necessary minimum suitable parameters. To establish a barrier to the path of low-temperature air, the threshold should traditionally be located 25 cm above the floor level.

The door made of wood will have the lowest thermal conductivity. Component boards without chips and knots should be as even as possible and tightly adjacent to each other. If desired, the doors can be insulated, like walls, during the assembly process. After the natural shrinkage of the wooden product, the resulting cracks must be sealed with jute or tow, and the door will again store heat with high quality. The lighting in the bath for the most part is carried out artificially, so the windows are made of small dimensions. The exception is the rest room, where the window can be of any size, however, in order to avoid hypothermia, it is also advised to make it small.

The glass used in the frames must be double. Air gap between double glazing creates an accumulation of air that retains heat inside the sauna room. Glass is installed using sealant to eliminate holes between the frame that can let in cold air currents. The remaining gaps between window opening and the frame must be filled with mineral insulation, for example, mineral wool, on top of which a layer of waterproofing film is applied.

Insulation of the ceiling surface includes work on the thermal insulation of the roof, since its large surface in the absence of an insulating layer will allow large volumes of cold air to pass through. Air heat rises during cooling, and an unstable roof will contribute to the rapid cooling of the bath. With a high-quality insulating roof coating, ceiling processing can be neglected. Laying insulation is possible provided that the bath is located separately from other buildings and has a pitched roof.

Warming is carried out using any heat-insulating coating laid on the attic floor. The process of laying synthetic insulation on the roof is similar to the technology of wall surface insulation. When using organic insulation, the frame is initially prepared. When pouring out a dry sawdust mixture, it must be dried, cleaned of resins and impregnated with an antiseptic. For insulation, a layer of sawdust is covered on top with a layer of membrane or sprinkled with ash.

The ceiling is insulated with basalt wool. It is laid on the surface of the walls with a pre-fixed frame. The heat-insulating layer must exceed the thickness of a similar coating on the walls, since warm air rising upwards contacts the ceiling surface, the temperature of which exceeds other temperature indicators. The insulating coating must be laid with small overlaps on the walls. In the future, it can be used to insulate walls by gluing the joints with foil tape.

The walls inside the bath are covered with an insulating composition after preliminary surface preparation. It needs to be smoothed, so gaps and cracks are puttied between the brick walls. wooden walls are treated to eliminate the appearance of mold and fungi. First, bars or a drywall profile are attached to the wall surface. A heater is laid in the resulting space. A hydro-vapor barrier coating is applied on top of it and a wooden crate is installed.

Before installing it, it is necessary to measure the width of the insulation material. The resulting dimensions may not be valid due to possible deformation during movement. Therefore, the crate is fixed at a distance less than the resulting one so that the material is placed between the wall and the crate with little effort. The heat insulator must be placed between them as tightly as possible to avoid the formation of cracks that allow the penetration of cold air and the formation of condensate drops. The height of the crate should correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. The last step is finishing.

Do-it-yourself bars are attached to the wall surface, a heat-insulating component is placed between them. Then insulating material is laid in the same place. With a well-defined distance, the heat insulator is held on the wall surface without the use of supplementary fasteners. At the connection points, the foil heat insulator is sealed with aluminum tape for tightness. Similarly, the contact points of the insulating material with the crate are sealed with a capture of at least 5 cm of insulation and timber.

Sealing joints must be given special attention to eliminate the possibility of liquid penetration into the insulation layer. In addition to laying a heat-insulating layer, protection against moisture is installed for it. In the steam room and washing room, a foil vapor barrier is used, which at the same time will reflect heat. Subsequently, the bath will warm up with less time and fuel costs. To warm the rest room and dressing room, the temperature of which is lower than in the steam room, you can use other heat-insulating materials. Their laying is carried out with the overlap of one plate with another by 5 cm and with their subsequent fixation with brackets using a stapler.

The places of joints and the installation of brackets for high-quality heat preservation are closed with a layer of foil tape. Do not leave a gap between the layers of vapor barrier material and insulation. A crate of wooden planks 20 mm thick is attached to the fixed bars for subsequent lining with a clapboard.

The floors in the bath are of two types - wooden or concrete. The technical side of laying the heat-insulating coating does not depend on the material of the floor, with the exception that the concrete structure requires a slightly larger layer of insulation. Expanded clay is a classic raw material for creating an insulating layer in the floor. The thickness of the layer of material to be filled must be accurately correlated with the thickness of the wall of the room. On average, the size of the expanded clay layer is 2 times the thickness of the walls. The degree of insulation can be increased by a reasonable increase in the backfill layer.

Immediately before the procedure of falling asleep, it is necessary to mark the base. It is produced by delimiting the area to be filled up into sections, the width of which is 1 m or another convenient value. The field with ready-made markings is covered with a vapor barrier film. When tensioned, its edges along the wall should be located above the floor level. Laying the film is not necessary if there is already roofing felt on the surface of the base. To facilitate the work, the installation of guides and their fasteners should be. They are located based on the applied markings and are attached with nails or screws.

Along the level boundary, it is necessary to place beacons - auxiliary parts, which will orient when falling asleep expanded clay. The installation height of the guides is calculated depending on the required thickness of the insulation. Expanded clay should be poured onto the surface and leveled with wooden lath appropriate length.

When warming wooden bath the best option serve as a heater consumable- sawdust. To ensure their vapor barrier, you can use a simplified method - the amount of wood insulation necessary for one cell between the bars is poured into a plastic bag. The properties of polyethylene prevent the penetration of moisture into the sawdust mass.

The procedure for warming implies the beginning of work from the ceiling surface so that during its processing it does not accidentally damage the walls and floor. In the exit area chimney temperature is high, so for safety reasons, use mineral insulation- basalt wool. It differs in refractoriness and fire resistance. The passage of the pipe through the ceiling must be closed with a protective metal plate.

When building a traditional Russian or Finnish bath, you need to take care of high-quality insulation of the building in order to prevent large heat losses through walls, ceilings and floors in winter. Otherwise, it will be difficult to heat the steam room properly, and fuel consumption will turn out to be unreasonably high. Not to mention the comfortable conditions for people washing there. It is not difficult to insulate a bath, but you need to have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to do it correctly and what materials you can use. You can learn about all the nuances of the process from this article.

What heater to choose?

If you study the issue more deeply, it turns out that the main difficulty lies in choosing the right insulation for proper thermal insulation of the bath building in general and the steam room in particular. The reason is simple - none of the many modern materials offered on the market is not suitable for warming the steam room inside. Moreover, it is simply unacceptable to use foam plastic, foam plastic and other polymers for this purpose, as well as mineral wool.

The bath is designed to improve the health of a person - this is an axiom. Inside the steam room, and other adjacent rooms, high temperature and humidity are provided - this is one of the conditions for the healing procedure. Accordingly, the internal insulation for a bath should not emit any harmful substances when heated, which cannot be said about the vast majority of modern materials.

When heated above 60 ° C (and in the steam room it can also be 110 ° C), all foamed polymers begin to release harmful substances and even emit a specific smell. Therefore, with their help, it is possible to insulate the bath building only from the outside, but by no means inside. The same applies to various types of basalt and mineral wool, which include a phenol-based binder. There is nothing to say about roll insulation based on glass wool.

For reference. Polymeric heaters that are not suitable for interior decoration include polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, foam plastic, foamed polyethylene insulators (Izolon, Penofol) and other similar materials.

What is the best way to sheathe the walls from the inside in order to insulate the bath correctly and without harm to health? The answer lies on the surface - natural environmentally friendly materials that were used by our ancestors. These include:

• sawdust with clay;
• wood;
• felt;
• linen, jute;
• reeds tied into mats;

Advice. There is an old folk way used for a long time by people in villages. When the owners kept several cows, they prepared a lot of hay and straw for the winter. And they kept them, leaning against the walls wooden house or baths, thereby simultaneously warming it for the winter.

Good modern heaters for baths and saunas are expanded clay and vermiculite, all others are suitable only for external insulation, done by hand or with the help of specialists. Now that we have figured out the best way to finish the interior of the steam room, we can proceed to the very process of thermal insulation of the walls.

The scheme of warming the bath from the inside

The method of carrying out the work depends on what the building is built from. For example, a well-built log house does not need insulation at all, the thickness of the logs is quite enough. In an old chopped bathhouse, it may be necessary to seal and caulk the cracks between the logs. This is done using felt or other interventional heaters listed above. The same warming procedure is done by hand in structures made of profiled or glued timber, if cracks appear.

In order to protect the walls of a wooden bath from exposure to high humidity, you can protect them with a foil vapor barrier layer. This is not a foil insulation made of polyethylene foam, but a pure foil that is laid between the inner surface of the wall and the wooden trim of the steam room. A simple technology is used here: the foil is nailed to a wooden surface with the help of battens, as shown in the diagram:

The joints of the material are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and are glued with aluminum tape for tightness. Later, interior trim elements are attached to the lathing slats. According to the same scheme, it is proposed to insulate baths built of brick, gas silicate and foam blocks, since these building materials are best protected from moisture. That is, from the inside, lay a foil vapor barrier, and perform the main "pie" of insulation from the outside.

The most correct decision would be to abandon the idea of ​​​​insulating the bath from the inside, it is enough to lay a vapor barrier layer between the walls and the interior. At the same time, when installing external thermal insulation, it is possible to use any kind of heaters for baths or saunas without risking the health of your loved ones. In this case, it is worth starting with the insulation of the foundation of the building.

Foundation thermal insulation

This procedure is more convenient to perform during construction, otherwise you will have to destroy the blind area and dig a hole around the structure at least 1 m wide and 30 cm deep. First, a layer of waterproofing is applied to the foundation surface, and then insulation boards are glued. This is where foamed polymers will come in handy - polystyrene, or better, polystyrene foam and foam plastic. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer in this case will be 50 mm.

Advice. To insulate the base and base of the bath, you should not use various foil heaters, they are too thin and will not give the desired effect. Mineral wool is also not suitable, since it is hygroscopic and, after absorbing moisture, is not able to retain heat.

Insulation plates are also laid under the blind area, thus protecting the soil near the building from freezing. Then the concrete pavement is poured and exterior finish plinth, as shown in the example of foam block sauna insulation:

How to properly insulate the floor and ceiling

As mentioned above, it is possible to produce thermal insulation inside the bath, including floors, only with the help of natural heaters. However, there is a technology in accordance with which it is possible to insulate the floor with foam plastic and similar materials. To do this, you just need to isolate them from the inner space of the steam room and this is done by means of a concrete screed. With this option, the “pie” of the design looks like this:

First, an inclined surface with a footing is arranged, on which a waterproofing film is placed, and on top - a layer of foam. The insulation is covered with another layer of vapor barrier film, after which it is poured with a concrete screed. In the middle of the structure, a ladder with a drainage pipe for draining and discharging water is provided.

It is possible to simplify the process if you simply use concrete mixed with foam balls or vermiculite for screeding. Then it will simultaneously serve as an insulating layer, and there is no need to put whole plates under the screed. Another option is to take expanded clay for floor insulation, and it will not need to be isolated from the interior of the bath. The method will fit when the wooden floors on the logs are supported by brick posts and you do not plan to arrange a ladder and drainage.

Expanded clay is poured between the lags into the cavity between the finishing and subfloor, or around the brick columns. Remember that to ensure the required degree of insulation, a layer of expanded clay is needed 3-4 times thicker than foam. Otherwise, there will be no sense from it. This material is loose and porous, so after getting wet it can dry out quickly enough, the main thing is that ventilation works.

Also, with the help of expanded clay, the ceiling is insulated in a bath with cold roof. The only condition is that the ceiling lining must be strong enough to withstand the weight of the insulation. From above, from the side of the attic space, the material does not need to be covered with anything. If you want to insulate the attic over the steam room with sawdust, then they should first be mixed with clay and the resulting solution should be laid between the logs.

The fact is that water vapor will gradually penetrate from the steam room through the wooden floor and impregnate the layer of sawdust. As a result, their thermal insulation properties will decrease, in addition, a fungus can start from moisture. Clay does not allow moisture to pass through and after drying it will turn out good thermal insulation ceiling. Sometimes a mixture of sawdust and cement is also used, but this option is not suitable for baths and saunas, cement can absorb a lot of moisture and the ceiling will lose heat.

For reference. If for the internal insulation of the bath to consider any basalt insulation, then it is not suitable not only because of the release of phenol. Mineral wool also absorbs moisture well, no matter how hard you try to wrap it up, except to seal it hermetically board material into polyethylene.

We should not forget about reed mats. In the bath, they can be used everywhere and insulate any structures, but it is important to ensure good ventilation and airing of the steam room to dry this natural material after washing procedures.

About door insulation

Due to the large temperature difference between the outside and the room inside the sauna, a large amount of heat can escape through front door if it has loose porches or is poorly insulated. The first problem is solved in the old-fashioned way - by stuffing felt strips onto elements door frame. As for insulation, there are several ways.

The simplest is the installation of a thermal curtain just outside the door. A string is attached to the wall above the entrance, on which a piece of dense fabric is suspended to the floor. In order to be able to move it away, the suspension must be provided on clips or make rings of wire with your own hands. Another way is to insulate wooden door from the inside, upholstered with foam rubber or the same felt. From above, the material is covered with dermantine on carnations, and a sealing roller is nailed along the perimeter of the box, as shown in the diagram:

Conclusion

As it turned out, the process of warming the enclosing structures of the bath is not as simple as it might seem. There are a lot of recommendations on the Internet on how to carry out thermal insulation with various heaters, but their environmental friendliness and harmlessness to health are not mentioned. Meanwhile, this is the main factor influencing the choice of material, because from this point of view, the bath should be built flawlessly.

The internal insulation of the bath is one of the most important stages in the arrangement of this building. Without high-quality thermal insulation, the owner will have to spend much more resources on heating the steam room, and the very situation in the bath without properly installed protection will leave much to be desired.

Since ancient times in Rus', moss, felt and even flax have been used to insulate baths, mainly due to the lack of other heaters - vegetable fiber either rots or dries, therefore today it is not used for basic thermal insulation.

The main difference between warming a bathhouse and a similar event in an ordinary house is simple: in the steam room you need to keep the heat for as long as possible, i.e. high temperatures should remain indoors for as long as possible.

Thermal insulation work in the bath can be carried out using a variety of different materials. For example, the ideal solution is modern insulation based on stone wool coated with a foil coating - it does not burn, withstanding temperatures up to 750 degrees, effectively retains heat, does not rot, is not of interest to rodents.

After reviewing the information below, you will get a complete theoretical understanding of the process of performing internal insulation of a steam room, as well as study step-by-step instructions for self-assembly thermal insulation materials.

We warm the bath from the inside: what do we need?

Any construction, repair and finishing activities begin with the preparation of materials, without which the implementation of the planned work will simply be impossible. Pay due attention to the study of the list below: it is better to spend a little time reading and immediately buy everything you need than to return to the store and buy more of what you forgot.

insulation

The main component of the list under consideration. Modern market offers the widest range of thermal insulation materials, but not all of them are suitable for use in a steam room - humidity and temperature can be too tough. For warming the bath, the most commonly used are: expanded clay (floor insulation), materials based on stone wool, and expanded polystyrene.

Important! It is strongly not recommended to use foam plastic for insulation directly in the steam room - at high temperatures, a material of dubious quality can most likely release substances harmful to human health.

Comparative characteristics of the mentioned materials are given in the following table.

Table. Comparison of popular bath heaters

Evaluation criterion Expanded clay

Structure	Bulk material of natural origin. Presented in the form of granules with a cellular structure.	fibrous structure. The arrangement of fibers is both vertical and horizontal, disordered.	Open cell structure.
moisture permeability	The material does not pass water.	Mineral wool insulation has practically no tendency to absorb moisture.	Moisture permeability is extremely low.
Weight	Easy	Medium-light	Easy
Strength	high	Medium
Compressive strength	high	From low to medium, depending on the specific type of material and manufacturer's technologies.	Medium
Toxicity	The material is safe	No toxic properties	Over time, it begins to release harmful substances
Can be used under high load conditions	Suitable	Depending on the brand of material	not suitable
prone to decay	The material retains its original integrity for a long time	Durable insulation	Has a tendency to break down
UV resistance	Doesn't react to sunlight	Features high UV resistance	Long-term direct contact with sunlight has an extremely negative effect on the performance of the material.

As noted, expanded clay is suitable for warming bath floors. Bulk material allows you to provide the required thermal insulation of both wooden and concrete structures. Mineral wool insulation is optimally suited for insulating both walls and ceilings. The best option, as noted, is a heat-insulating material based on stone wool, equipped with an additional foil coating - the key characteristics of such heaters at a higher level.

In accordance with the current provisions of the technology for carrying out the work in question, the joints of the insulation boards must be glued with foil tape. This will create a sealed surface with the highest possible thermal insulation properties.

The elements of the heat-insulating coating are placed in the cells of a pre-mounted crate, for the assembly of which wooden bars are used. Select the cross section of the bars in accordance with the thickness of the thermal insulation. For example, if you are equipping a 10 cm thermal insulation layer, use bars with a similar thickness or width to assemble the frame.

Choose the distance between the bars 1-2 cm less than the width of the plates or the insulation roll. For bulk materials, the optimal distance between the bars is 45-60 cm.

Fixing the elements of the crate (bars) is carried out using dowels / self-tapping screws (if the surface is wooden) or anchors (if the base is stone). The length of the fasteners is also selected in accordance with the base material: for wood - 2-2.5 cm, for capital structures - from 4 cm.

The specific length of fasteners is determined in accordance with the characteristics of their use. For example, during the installation of the crate, the fasteners must be of such length that high-quality fixation of the timber / profile of the selected section is ensured. The beam section itself, as well as the profile parameters, are determined in accordance with the thickness of the heat-insulating layer to be equipped.

Additional materials

If the bath is insulated with a material other than foil mineral wool, you will additionally have to purchase a hydro-vapor barrier film.

If a concrete screed is planned to be poured, the work set will increase to include the items listed below:

• reinforcing mesh;
• mixture for pouring the screed or materials for its self-preparation (cement, sand, water);
• lighthouses;
• damper tape;
• polyethylene.

The floors in the bath can be wooden or concrete. The technology for arranging the directly heat-insulating layer does not have any special differences depending on the material for making the floor, except that in the case of a concrete structure, more expanded clay will have to be poured.

The thickness of the backfill is usually determined in accordance with the thickness of the walls. On average, a layer of expanded clay is poured at least 2 times thicker than the walls. If the height of the room allows, the thickness of the backfill can be further increased - this will help increase the efficiency of insulation.

Previously, for greater convenience of work and subsequently more accurate control of the evenness of the backfill, mark the base. To do this, it is enough to divide it with parallel lines into sections up to 1 m wide or along the length of the rule you use.

Important! If you are insulating the floor on the ground, at the very beginning, even before marking, you must do the following:

• carefully tamp the ground inside the base (if the foundation design assumes the presence of “free” soil, for example, in the case of strip supports);
• cover the walls with impregnation for waterproofing;
• fill the soil with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, spill it with water and carefully tamp;
• cover the sand with roofing material with a 15-centimeter overlap on the walls. Lay individual sheets of roofing material also with a 15 cm overlap. For fastening, use waterproof construction tape.

Directly the procedure for warming the floor with expanded clay with illustrations and the necessary explanations is given in the following table.

Table. Bath floor insulation with expanded clay

StageIllustrationRequired explanations

	The film must be stretched so that its edges along the wall are above the floor level. If the base is already covered with roofing felt, there is no need to lay the film.
	For example, a profile for drywall is well suited. The guides are set in accordance with the previously applied markings and fixed in a suitable way, for example, screws or nails.
	Set the beacons according to the level. In the future, these accessories will help you fill the most even layer of expanded clay, which will ensure the best quality of further planned work. Determine the installation height of the guides in accordance with the required thickness of the heat-insulating layer. Many developers do without guides, but this is a less convenient and accurate option.
We pour expanded clay		The previously installed guides will help to do this as efficiently as possible.
	For leveling, we use a rule or an ordinary rail of a suitable length.
	For greater convenience of leveling the insulation, we can use various auxiliary devices. For example, in large areas, a rake will come in handy.

The floor is insulated and ready for further development in accordance with the developer's plans. At the discretion of the owner, additional heat-insulating material, for example, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, can be laid on top of expanded clay.

As an example, a diagram of a concrete floor, equipped with expanded clay for thermal insulation, is given.

Video - Floor insulation with expanded clay

Insulation of bath walls and ceiling

Wall insulation schemes will vary somewhat depending on the material of manufacture. Information about this is presented in the following table.

Table. Wall insulation schemes

Production materialScheme

1 - wall, 2 - thermal insulation, 3 - lathing, 4 - sheathing, 5 - ventilation gap.

The sequence of thermal insulation work remains the same for walls made of any materials: if necessary, a hydro-vapor barrier film is attached, lathing bars are mounted, insulation is placed in the cells formed, another layer of hydro-vapor barrier is fixed on top (if necessary), lathing laths are nailed for finishing sheathing (at the same time they will provide the necessary ventilation gap), the selected finishing material is mounted (usually lining).

The ceiling is insulated in a similar sequence. An example of a ceiling thermal insulation scheme is shown in the following image.

Information regarding step-by-step warming walls and ceiling of the bath is shown in the following table.

Important! Insulation will be carried out with a mineral wool material with a foil layer, which eliminates the need for preliminary fastening of a hydrovapor barrier material to the surface. The order of work is considered on the example of wooden surfaces. For concrete walls and floors, the recommendations are the same, the only thing is that you need to use other fasteners and for greater convenience, wooden guides can be replaced with a metal profile.

Table. The procedure for insulating walls and ceilings in the bath from the inside

Stage of workIllustrationRequired explanations

	Information regarding the elements used to arrange the frame, as well as fasteners for fixing the guides in different cases, was given earlier. The installation step of the guides is selected in accordance with the width of the insulation. As a standard, this is about 60 cm, it can be reduced to 59-59.5 cm so that the heat-insulating elements lie as tightly as possible.
Slab laying rules		We must first put on gloves - the contact of “bare” skin with mineral wool does not deliver the most pleasant sensations. The foil material is laid with foil inside the room - thanks to this, the heat will not only be retained, but also additionally reflected into the steam room.
	The slabs are installed by surprise into the frame and do not require additional mechanical fastening.
Installation of plates on the wall	Installation of plates on the wall	The sequence and recommendations for wall and ceiling insulation are similar. To insulate the partition separating the steam room from the adjacent room, a layer 50 mm thick is usually sufficient.
	The thermal insulation of the outer wall requires a thicker layer - 100-150 mm (in regions with a particularly cold climate - up to 200 mm).
	In order to save money, the insulation can be made two-layer, equipping one layer of ordinary mineral wool, and the second, which will “look” into the room, from a foil-coated material.
	The use of such a heater, as noted, eliminates the need for additional waterproofing materials.
	Having filled the frame with heat-insulating plates, we glue the seams and joints with foil tape.
	A 1-2 cm gap is enough. The outer trim will be attached to the same crate in the future. Important! The order of further installation of the lining depends on the location of the rails: if the rails are fixed vertically, the lining must be fixed horizontally, and vice versa.
	The best material for the interior lining of the bath is lining. The choice of material for the manufacture of the skin is at the discretion of the owner. The fixing of the cladding elements is traditionally performed using screws / self-tapping screws.

Video - Insulation of walls and ceiling from the inside

Now you know everything about how to properly insulate a bath with your own hands using the most optimal heat-insulating materials for this. The information obtained will help you cope with the planned events on your own, eliminating the need to contact third-party masters and saving significantly.

Successful work!

Video - Insulation of the bath from the inside scheme

Warming the walls of the bath from the inside with your own hands

The technology of bath insulation involves three successive stages: insulation of the ceiling, then walls and, last but not least, the floor. The technology, in general, is the same for any type of building, but there are some features. In this article, we will try to figure out how to properly insulate the walls in the bath.

Scheme of the "pie" of warming the walls of the bath from the inside

Before starting work, be sure to eliminate all the flaws: close up and insulate the cracks, treat the walls with flame retardants and antiseptics, if you see fit, check the tightness of the joints, etc. After completion of the preparatory work, you can proceed with the installation of thermal insulation.

The pie itself looks like this:

• a wall on which bars are stuffed;
• heat insulator laid between the bars;
• vapor barrier;
• a crate of slats that holds materials and serves to mount the finish.

Step 1. A crate of bars is attached to the walls into which a heat insulator is tightly inserted. The thickness of the bars should correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation. A vapor barrier is attached to the bars, which, as a rule, use aluminum foil. After the foil, a crate is attached under the lining with a thickness of 20-3 ohm, and then the walls are sheathed with a lining.

Main conclusions:

1. It is not necessary to leave a gap between the insulation and aluminum foil in the bath;
2. It is desirable to leave a gap between the aluminum foil (or other foil material) and the lining so that the condensate can flow down freely. Otherwise, the lining will rot very quickly.

Between the bars we tightly lay the heat insulator. The thickness of the insulation corresponds to the thickness of the bars

You also need to decide on the direction in which the bars will be nailed to the wall. They can be nailed vertically and horizontally. And there is constant debate about how best to do it. Some builders claim that with a horizontal location of the heat insulator, and hence the bars, there is less heat loss. Their opponents say that ventilation is better with a vertical arrangement. More importantly, everyone chooses for himself, as well as whether or not the bars need to be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

Advice! It makes sense to think not about how to fix the bars, but first of all about how the lining will be attached: horizontally or vertically. It is more practical to mount the lining horizontally. In this case, the condensate, which will inevitably form on the vapor barrier, will be able to flow down unhindered, so the crate under the lining will be mounted vertically.

The step of stuffing the bars, under the insulation, is determined by the width of the selected heat insulator: the distance between the bars should be approximately 1 cm less than the actual width of the insulation(in this case, the insulation will fit snugly against the bars).

Advice! Be sure to measure the width of the insulation before attaching the bars. Do not trust the data on the packaging: firstly, there may be factory deviations, and secondly, during storage and transportation, the edges may wrinkle, thereby reducing the actual width. Any gap and loosely fitting heat insulator is a place where cold will penetrate and condensation will form. These areas are also called cold bridges.

Step 2 Between the stuffed bars, tightly, without gaps, with little effort, a heater is laid. With the right distance between the bars, the heat insulator holds itself well, but to be sure, you can fix it with hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel screws and washers of large diameter (read about the choice of fastening materials for the bath in this article).

If a foil heat insulator is chosen, to ensure tightness, close each connection with a patch of aluminum tape, and on top you need to fix another piece of adhesive-backed foil - tightness is very important: most heat insulators lose their properties in the presence of moisture. For example, the thermal conductivity of wet basalt wool is much greater than dry. For this reason, the insulation must not be allowed to get wet.

Also, carefully in this case, you need to approach the sealing of the joints of the foil insulation and the bars: they need to be glued with the same foil tape, ensuring that they enter at least 5 cm both on the insulation and on the bar.

For a steam room, foil is considered the best material to prevent moisture from penetrating into the insulation. It not only retains moisture well, but also reflects heat back into the room, greatly reducing its loss. If you choose such a material, the time required to heat the room will significantly decrease, the costs of maintaining the required temperature will decrease, the stove will work in a more gentle mode, which means it will last longer.

In other rooms, you can lay any other material that is suitable for performance.

The strips of the selected material are laid so that they overlap by at least 5 cm. All joints are additionally carefully glued with foil tape, which is sold in the same place as the vapor barrier. Attach it to the bars with staples and a construction stapler. To maintain tightness and prevent steam from entering the thermal insulation, it is advisable to glue the joints with the same foil tape.

The video below shows how insulation is laid in a Finnish sauna and covered with aluminum foil.

When insulating the ceiling, there should be a "sunset" of the heat and vapor barrier on the walls. When installing wall insulation, put it on top of the wall “pie”, and then carefully seal the joints (use foil tape again).

Step 3 After the installation of the "pie" is completed, a crate of planks is stuffed onto the protruding bars. It will hold the materials, and will also serve as the basis for attaching the interior trim.

This is how the wall may look after the completion of all work: 1 - insulation, 2 - vapor barrier, 3 - lining

Features of wall insulation from different materials

The technology and sequence of insulation layers remains virtually unchanged for various premises and types of buildings. Only some parameters can be changed. For example, for a steam room, the thickness of the insulation is recommended twice as much as for other rooms: it is here that it is very important to retain heat for the maximum amount of time.

The thickness of the insulation differs for buildings made of different materials. A log bath itself holds heat well, and when finishing all rooms except the steam room, you can do without insulation at all, or choose a material of small thickness - if the winters in your region are harsh.

The video below explains why there is no need to additionally insulate the walls log sauna(the plot of the program "Estate").

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath from the inside practically no different, except for the methods of fastening: in brick wall hammering nails is more difficult, you can use dowels. You can use galvanized profiles instead of wooden bars, but when buying them, pay attention to whether they are suitable for use in rooms with high humidity. And with the choice of sizes it is much more difficult here: there are not so many standard sizes, and metal can become a conductor of cold. Insulation of the brick walls of the bath from the inside implies a greater thickness of thermal insulation than in a log bath: minimum - 10cm, but this parameter depends on many factors: wall thickness, external insulation, region, etc.

Insulation of the walls of the bath from foam blocks the composition of the "pie" is no different. The whole difficulty is that this material does not hold fasteners well, even special ones. It is no better than he tolerates excessive loads. Therefore, when choosing materials, pay attention to their weight. It should be one of the decisive factors.

The fastening of the crate must be done so that the main load falls on the floor, and not on the walls. To do this, you can make U-shaped structures that are attached to the floor and ceiling, just fix their position in the walls with a pair of dowels.

Advice! To further reduce the load on foam concrete walls, you can not fasten the planks tightly to the wall, but make clamps from pieces of galvanized steel that will only hold the slats in a vertical state. The entire load will be on the floor.

The insulation between the slats should be laid tightly, and you can fix it so that it does not fall with the help of a thread and a stapler (shoot the thread to the slats). A vapor barrier or vapor barrier can also be attached to the planks with staples, but do not forget to overlap the panels, glue and seal the joints with foil tape, and cover the staples with patches.

The last stage of warming the walls of the bath from foam blocks is the installation of the crate for interior decoration. This is a similar frame of U-shaped sections, the load from which is distributed mainly on the floor. This frame is attached to the first one in several places to the bars.

This is just one solution that allows you to insulate the walls of the bath from foam blocks, but it is simple in execution and quite reliable.

Bath insulation materials

The choice of material for insulation is a rather complicated process: it is necessary to take into account not only the technical characteristics of heaters, but also their environmental friendliness, harmlessness, and fire safety. It is especially problematic to correctly select a heater for a steam room, since it has not only high humidity, but also high temperature, which causes the release of toxic substances from some types of heaters.

Classic mineral wool

Not so long ago, almost everyone advised using mineral wool to insulate the bath, but recent studies have shown that in production, a composition containing phenol-formaldehyde resins. They have a harmful effect on a person, are a carcinogen, which in itself is unacceptable, and in a bath or sauna with its high temperature, it is generally very dangerous. Yes, the certificates indicate that the release of these substances does not exceed the threshold, but do you need it?

Even Rockwool or TechnoNIKOL basalt wool, any other mineral wool from well-known or not manufacturers, emits phenol-formaldehyde substances. In general, according to doctors and experts, any mineral wool is harmful to health. In this regard, the question arises: "what is the best way to insulate the bath?". There are several materials about which there are no negative opinions. Anyway, until...

Mineral heaters of a new generation

URSA PUREONE material is presented as a new generation of mineral insulation. Acrylic is used as a binder - a chemically neutral substance that does not react with other substances and does not emit harmful substances under any operating conditions.

The safety of URSA PUREONE has been confirmed by the EcoStandard group (classified as an M1 material by Eurofins, EUCEB certified).

Heaters made of glass, peat and paper

FOAMGLAS® foam glass is foamed glass. It does not burn, does not lose its properties over time, is stable in shape, environmentally friendly and safe. Its only drawback: the high price and rather large weight.

There are also peat-based heaters - peat blocks . Crushed peat is soaked with water, filler is added - straw, sawdust, etc., blocks are formed from the resulting mushy mass, which are used as heat and sound insulators. The resulting material not only reduces heat loss, but is also a "breathable" material - it absorbs well and also releases moisture well, has a bacteriostatic effect, does not burn or rot.

Despite all positive traits peat blocks are not the most common material, and there are few manufacturers of this material. The most famous is the GeoKar enterprise from Tver. If all the declared qualities are confirmed, then this is a good alternative to mineral wool.

There is also such a thermal insulator as ecowool . This is a cellulose substance, mostly made up of recycled newspapers, to which safe (according to the manufacturers) flame retardants have been added - boric acid and borax salts. Everything would be fine, but this material strongly absorbs moisture, and is not suitable for thermal insulation of the bath.

Wood fiber boards - are made from crushed wood chips, but using a different technology than the well-known fiberboard - without chemical binders. The chips are ground, diluted with water, distributed over the grid. The mass simply dries, after which it is cut into canvases.

Among the safe heaters, one can also name natural heaters made of flax, wool, moss, reeds. Use as a warming material and sawdust, reeds and straw. But all these substances are combustible, and without treatment with special compounds they cannot be used to warm the bath.

Modern foil insulation

In this article, we could not help but talk about what modern insulation materials used by the Finns in the construction of saunas. Hot finnish guys use insulation boards SPU Sauna Satu specially designed for wall and ceiling insulation in the sauna.

SPU Sauna Satu slabs are made of polyurethane foam and have an aluminum laminate coating on both sides.

SPU Sauna-Satu cooker

SPU Sauna Satu slabs can be attached to walls even without battens. The process of attaching plates to stone walls And wooden crate ceiling shown in the video.

At the moment, it is the SPU Sauna Satu boards that can be attributed to the most suitable heaters for baths and saunas.

conclusions

The main problems of warming the bath are associated with the warming of the steam room, since it has not only very high humidity, but also high temperature. Under the influence of high temperature, many heaters begin to release toxic substances that can harm human health. For this reason, it is necessary to carefully choose mineral wool insulation, as many of them contain phenol-formaldehyde resins that act as a binder.

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene should not be used as a heater, which, when heated to 60 degrees Celsius, begin to release toxic substances.

In fairness, it should be noted that many natural materials that are harmless at normal temperatures, when heated, can release substances that can harm human health.

For strong steam and persistent heat, what is the best way to insulate a sauna?

Constantly rising energy prices are forcing the owner of the bath under construction to provide all the necessary measures for further savings on its maintenance. During finishing work, the building is carefully insulated. Basically, this rule It is also used for any other building, but in our case the task becomes more complicated due to the maintenance of an extremely hot climate in one of the premises, which is not so easy to maintain. Because of this "zest", the insulation of the bath is somewhat different from the standard thermal protection of a residential or outbuilding. If you do not adhere to certain rules for its thermal insulation, then you will have to spend huge amounts of money to maintain the working temperature inside the premises. Improper warming of the Russian bath will completely lead to a situation where it will be simply impossible to achieve the desired "density" of therapeutic steam.

Let's reveal all the secrets of creating the right bath "fur coat", and pay special attention to such important working moments׃

• Materials for warming a bath ׃ hit parade of the best "heat-helpers"
• Bath insulation scheme for each part of the "box" of this structure
• The technology of warming a bath built from different building materials

What is the best way to insulate a bath?

What is the best way to insulate a bath? The main function of the steam room is to strengthen our health, therefore, all materials used for construction should not violate the healing atmosphere created in it. The same applies to heat insulators, whose action is aimed at effective heat retention. Samples that cannot withstand temperature differences and emit an unpleasant odor and harmful gas impurities into the air are strictly prohibited for use! Their negative impact will be multiplied by the hot and humid climate of the bathhouse.

A particularly strict natural selection of materials operates when the sauna is insulated inside the steam room. Here, the heat insulator must not only be harmless, but also able to withstand the extreme temperature of the room. Selection by such standards significantly sifts the ranks of "heat-helpers".

But still there are several excellent "candidates" for this role. We list the most popular materials that can be used to perform external and internal insulation of the bath.

• Basalt mineral wool

This heat insulator is the undisputed leader of the hit parade. Mineral wool is a fibrous material obtained by processing mineral rocks of stone (in particular, from the basalt group). The natural purity of the "pedigree" is supported by various useful characteristics.

Record coefficient of thermal conductivity: on average, this indicator for mineral wool ranges from 0.038 - 0.045 W / K * m (depending on the manufacturer and the quality set of components used in the production). Fire resistance: thermal insulation material belongs to the category of non-combustible materials. It can easily withstand high temperatures up to +1000 degrees Celsius.

Environmental friendliness: the natural composition of mineral wool guarantees its absolute harmlessness. Spoil the reputation of the material only impurities of slag, which are added by unscrupulous manufacturers to reduce the cost of their products. Biological neutrality: the material does not rot, is not a delicacy for rodents and insects, which guarantees its long and trouble-free service for at least 50 years.

Noise insulation properties: in addition to thermal insulation properties, the material is endowed with excellent sound insulation characteristics (coefficient - 0.95). Durability: despite the fibrous structure, mineral wool is a fairly durable material. The indicator of "strength" is 80 kPa.

The heat insulator is actively used both when the bath is insulated from the inside, and when the outer “coat” of the building is being equipped, since it is made of different densities and hardness (soft rolls, semi-rigid mats, hard plates).

• glass wool

This fibrous insulation is a close "relative" of mineral wool, but is significantly inferior to it in its technical characteristics. The material is made from glass production waste (broken glass) in combination with a natural “additive” (soda, dolomite, sand, etc.). Although glass wool is only slightly inferior to mineral wool in terms of thermal insulation properties (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.052 W / K * m), it is not recommended to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside with it for one simple reason: the material can withstand temperatures only up to +450 degrees Celsius. It is absolutely impossible to insulate a glassy zone located in close proximity to the furnace. In addition, during aging, the material emits a specific smell, which is unacceptable for a “healthy” atmosphere in residential premises. Most often, glass wool is used to insulate the roof and attic of the bath, thereby reducing the cost of this construction stage(20-30% cheaper than using mineral wool).

• Jute felt (mezhventsovy heaters)

This is a natural material of organic origin, which is made from a fibrous plant of the same name, belonging to the linden family. Jute fiber is a traditional raw material for the production of ropes and coarse burlap, but in addition to these economic areas, it is well known to bath attendants as a traditional interventional insulation for a bath. Jute not only retains heat very well (thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.040 W / K * m), but also has the ability to remove excess moisture from the interior. Due to the fragility and rigidity of the material, the insulation of a wooden bath is carried out by improved hybrids - jute fiber is reinforced with flax fibers for its greater elasticity, resilience and strength. The most popular samples are flax-jute felt, flax wool, etc. They are produced in the form of tape bobbins for different log diameters. Improvements also affected specifications materials - hybrids do not rot, do not deteriorate by insects and birds, do not settle and do not shrink.

Advice from the master!

For caulking, baths use time-tested natural materials such as red moss, hemp hemp, sphagnum, cuckoo flax, and more. But thanks to the convenience and practicality of felt-linen insulation, the "old guard" has dramatically lost its popularity.

This heat insulator is used as a backfill for insulating individual horizontal parts of the structure (in particular, for a bath - ceiling and floor). "Warm" light balls appear due to the rapid firing of low-melting clay. In construction, various materials of this type are used: gravel, crushed stone, sand. But it should be remembered that the thermal insulation effect of expanded clay is obtained only with a backfill thickness of more than 25 cm.

• Styrofoam

Insulation of a bath with foam plastic is ideal for external thermal protection of a brick (block) bath. The facade of the structure is glued with a polymer heat insulator, and then covered with plaster or other decorative material. Indoors, the material cannot be used categorically because of its harmful toxic fumes (phenol) and flammability.

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Proper warming of the steam room in the bath

A feature of the thermal insulation of the bath is increased attention to the thermal protection of the steam room, the extreme climate of which forces the owner to strengthen measures to protect the premises from the slightest heat leaks. Each component The "box" of the structure is equipped with individual "armor" and its arrangement does not always require only the latest expensive building materials. Our ancestors developed several available ways warming baths, which to this day have not lost their relevance.

Consider the most popular thermal protection technologies among the people for each component of the steam room.

• Insulation of the foundation of the bath

The “sole” of the bath is protected only by that heat insulator that is “not afraid” of moisture, biological threats and constant temperature fluctuations. Perfect option- polystyrene, which is the most popular material for insulating the foundation, basement and blind area of ​​buildings. As soon as the concrete tapes (slabs, columns) harden, the outer side of the base is carefully waterproofed and glued with sheets of cellular heat insulator at least 5 cm thick (ideally 10 cm in two 5 cm layers in a checkerboard pattern). Additionally, the surface can be covered not with ordinary, but with “warm” plaster.

Wooden flooring is a classic option for arranging the floor for a bath. There are two of its designs ׃ flowing: it is a “cold” floor, where between the wooden boards there are ventilation slots of 2-4 mm, which serve to remove excess water. Non-leaking: this is a “blank” floor with a fundamentally different water drainage system (slight slope and a special water collector in the underground).

Insulation of the bath floor is possible only for a non-leaking wooden floor. For these purposes, expanded clay or mineral wool is used. The heat insulator is placed in the gaps formed between the finishing and rough floors, protecting it from water "aggression" with a vapor barrier (from the indoor side) and a hydro barrier (from the soil side).

Warming of the concrete floor in the bath is carried out using rigid mats made of mineral wool or foam, which are included in the "puff" of the screed.
The concrete floor in the steam room does not require the arrangement of the "warm floor" system. Enough to protect the legs of the vapers wooden gratings. But in the washing room, such heating gives convenience and comfort to visitors.

• Bath wall insulation

The main nuance when insulating the walls of the bath is their effective vapor barrier. To do this, it is best to use foil or modern reflective insulation instead of a film. When installing a vapor barrier, an air gap is required between the film and the decoration of the room. To install the upholstery of the room, use a crate attached over the "mirror".

Mirror film should be laid vertical stripes overlap (15 cm) without stretch. Due to the thinness and fragility of the material, builders often perform two-layer insulation of the bath with foil. The seams are sealed with a special "mirror" adhesive tape.

Additionally, the walls inside the steam room (for stone structures) are insulated with mineral wool (5-10 cm), protected from the side of the bath box with a waterproofing film. During installation, it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap between the cotton heat insulator and the hydro-barrier, which will allow the “fur coat” to “breathe” freely and not accumulate moisture.

The ceiling needs careful thermal protection, as light hot air rushes up and will take advantage of the slightest flaw in the ceiling structure to escape. This surface is insulated in two ways: open and closed.

Open version - suitable for a bath where a "working" attic is not provided. wood paneling the ceiling is carefully waterproofed with a reflective film, and then covered with a loose heat insulator. Our ancestors used sawdust mixed with dry oak leaves as backfill. From above, a warm “blanket” was covered with a 5-cm layer of dry earth. Instead of a vapor barrier film, liquid clay was used, which was coated with a wooden floor (2 times, layer - 3-5 cm). This method is still relevant today and has proven itself in practice. More modern version- insulation of the ceiling of the bath with expanded clay. Just remember that this backfill exhibits its useful thermal insulation properties with a layer thickness of 25 cm or more. Warm balls are protected by a waterproofing layer (for example, roofing material).

Closed - a built-in warm "fur coat" on the ceiling is closed with boards that are attached to the logs, which allows you to use the attic for household needs. With this version of the “puff”, mineral wool is most often used according to the standard scheme (vapor barrier + mineral wool + hydrobarrier).

• Bath roof insulation

When insulating the roof of the bath, they adhere to the standard rules for arranging the “warm roof” of a residential building. The choice of material depends on the functionality of the attic space. If the attic of the bath is insulated for the construction of a rest room here, then the most “healthy” version of the heat insulator is chosen - mineral wool. In the case when the "cap" of the steam room will be warehouse technical room, then you can save 25-30% and give preference to glass wool.

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Insulation of the bath outside and inside ׃ we select the right “fur coat” for our steam room

• Brick bath

In order for the insulation of a stone bath to meet all the criteria for thermal protection, it must first be protected with a “fur coat” from the outside. Ideally, mineral wool is suitable for these purposes, a cheaper option is PSB-S.

According to the technology, the external insulation of a brick bath is performed in two layers (5 cm + 5 cm) with overlapping of the seams of mats (slabs), which leads to the elimination of “cold” bridges in the “puff”. But due to economy, this method is rarely used. Developers are limited to only a 5-centimeter layer of heat insulator.

Additional insulation of a brick bath from the inside is not always required, since it depends on the type of room: a rest room, a dressing room, a vestibule are simply sheathed with a facing layer (wooden lining, “warm” plates made of pressed chips). A steam room is a room where additional insulation of the walls of a brick bath is carried out using mineral wool (standard “puff” ׃ vapor barrier + cotton wool + hydro barrier). The washing room is heated by the “warm floor” system, and the walls are covered with ceramic tiles for protection and decoration.

• Wooden bath

A wooden structure initially has good thermal insulation properties, but nevertheless, for the construction of a bath, it requires additional strengthening of its output characteristics. Due to the variety of modern lumber, we will consider the insulation scheme for each type of wooden steam room construction.

The warming of a bath from a bar is aimed primarily at sealing the seams of the building box. To do this, use thin layers of felt insulation based on jute and flax. The joint sealer can be pre-glued to one of the edges of the glued laminated timber, which significantly speeds up the workflow. interior decoration only rooms with a strict operating mode are exposed - washing and steam rooms. The washing room is sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall and protected by ceramic tiles. As for the steam room, a layer of mineral wool is hidden under the lining of the wooden lining, protected by a vapor barrier (foil) and a hydro barrier.

Insulation of a frame bath requires special attention to each honeycomb formed in the structure's skeleton. Mineral wool is placed inside the “puff” (standard film protection) and the structure is sheathed on both sides with wooden boards (or OSB-boards). In the steam room, a vapor barrier film with a “mirror” is used, which allows you to create the effect of a “thermos” in the room.

A log bath, due to the thickness of the working elements of the “box”, does not actually require additional insulation. The main concern of the owner of the structure is the high-quality thermal insulation of the joints between the joints, for the thermal insulation of which natural materials are used based on a mixture of jute and flax fibers.

The warming of the steam room of a log cabin is carried out using mineral wool. As a vapor barrier, foil or a more advanced reflective vapor barrier is used, supplemented with a layer of effective heat insulator.

• Block bath

Building blocks are an affordable and profitable building material, therefore they are actively used in the construction of a modern steam room. Warming a bath from cinder blocks is no different from warming a brick structure. First, the building is protected by an external “fur coat”, which ensures that the optimal temperature is maintained in the rooms. As for the steam room, for this room it is necessary to build an additional warm “puff” of mineral wool, a vapor barrier (foil) and a hydro barrier.

Having performed such insulation of a bath from foam blocks, you can quickly warm up the structure and easily maintain the desired temperature in it. For sheathing the internal walls of the steam room, wooden lining made of linden or aspen is used, which has the lowest thermal conductivity.

In view of the high thermal insulation characteristics of the main building material, the insulation of a bath from expanded clay concrete blocks is carried out with a thinner layer of cotton wool insulation than for a colder brick steam room.

How can I insulate the bath outside and inside

The Russian banya does not lose its popularity, and at the same time it must be built in compliance with the relevant norms and rules. Therefore, the question of how to insulate a bath remains very relevant.

Some features of bath insulation

Proper thermal insulation of the bath will help to significantly reduce fuel costs, improve the quality of the procedure, and keep the building itself in good condition for a long time, especially if the bath is used all year round.

Since ancient times, Russian baths have been insulated using natural materials - moss, tow, bast, etc. At present, it is better to use artificial heaters. They are durable, easy to install, environmentally friendly.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of using bath rooms - a high level of moisture, high temperatures, often a live fire. All these moments impose certain requirements on heaters for a bath, especially if they are used for internal insulation.

Before purchasing a material, it is necessary to carefully consider a number of important factors, taking into account the cost, biological inertness, and technical characteristics of the proposed heat insulators. 1 more important point- regional climate. The amount of materials required is determined by the size of the bath building and the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

Whether it is necessary and whether it is possible to insulate the bath from the outside depends on the material from which it is built, the regional climate and the time of use - seasonal or year-round.

Necessary tools and materials

In order to carry out the thermal insulation of the bath yourself, you need to prepare the following set of tools:

• construction roulette;
• screwdriver;
• building level and plumb;
• axe;

• chisel;
• saw or hacksaw;
• hammer;
• jigsaw;
• wire cutters or pliers;
• sharp technical knife;
• electric drill or hammer drill.

In addition to the actual insulation, for work you will need:

• vapor barrier film;
• wooden beam;
• metal rail;
• screws and nails;
• adhesive tape.

How to choose a heater

In the bath usually there are: a dressing room, rooms for washing, a steam room, a dressing room, a relaxation room. In these rooms, different levels of humidity and temperature are set during washing. Therefore, how you can insulate the bath inside is determined for each room separately.

According to mechanical characteristics, heaters are divided into loose, block and tile, mother and fibrous materials.

The chemical composition makes it possible to separate heat insulators into organic, inorganic, technical and plastic materials.

Plastic-based heat insulators are best used for warming rooms with low levels of moisture and temperatures. They are not used in the steam room because of the easy flammability and deformation when heated. Cheap and safe organic heat insulators can be used in the steam room only after fire treatment.

The most practical are inorganic heat insulators. These materials are fire-resistant, non-hygroscopic. They do not rot and can serve for a long time without losing their basic technical properties.

More about vapor barriers

Most good option vapor barriers for all bath rooms - aluminum foil. It is fire resistant, durable, non-hygroscopic. The main advantage of aluminum foil is the ability to reflect heat. Using such a vapor barrier in the bath, you can significantly reduce the consumption of fuel material.

Glassine, as well as roofing material, cannot be used in the steam room, since these materials, when heated, emit volatile toxic substances. In some embodiments, glassine can be used as a heater. Ruberoid for this purpose is better not to use at all.

The choice of insulation and the method of its installation depend on the material from which the bath is built. If the bath is built of timber, on bearing walls first, a cellular crate of bars is mounted. The cross section of the beam should be 0.2-0.3 cm more than the thickness of the heat insulator. This will ensure the safety of the insulation and its useful properties.

Between the bars of the crate, the selected heat insulator is laid. It is covered with vapor barrier material. The vapor barrier is laid with a shift. A thin metal rail is mounted over the joints. A gap of no more than 3 cm must be left between the insulation and the vapor barrier.

The corners of the room, pipes, window and door openings are sealed with a special vapor barrier tape. This will protect problem areas from moisture penetration.

For finishing in this case, it is easier to use a lining board. It is stuffed over a vertical crate.

Bath structures of a panel or frame type are insulated only with heat insulators that have a low specific gravity. Before use, they are treated with lime milk to protect against corrosion and improve fire resistance. After processing, the material must be thoroughly dried.

We warm the steam room

The steam room in the bath requires special attention. After all, it is here during operation that the highest level of moisture and elevated temperature are observed. Therefore, insulation, waterproofing and finishing of this room must be made with special materials.

The maximum heating during operation is exposed to the ceiling of the steam room (up to 150 ° C). Therefore, the question of how to insulate the bath ceiling is solved by using materials with high heat resistance.

In the absence of an attic or attic, insulation is installed in the following order:

• wooden lattice from a bar on the ceiling boards;
• trim elements;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier.

If there is an upper room - an attic, an attic - the insulation scheme looks a little different. A layer of clay is applied to the ceiling boards, at least 2 cm thick. This will ensure moisture retention. All small holes, joints between boards, etc. are filled with bulk material. Usually expanded clay or chips are used for this. The thickness of this layer is at least 20 cm.

A box-shaped base of rafter supports is mounted around the chimney on the ceiling. This will provide a gap between the pipe and the heat insulator of 20 cm, required fire safety. A non-combustible heat insulator such as glass wool or mineral wool is placed inside the box. The main surface of the ceiling is covered with a layer of mineral heat insulator.

The walls and ceiling of the bath building must be insulated according to the following principles:

1. Thermal insulators should be in close contact with the wall surface to reduce the risk of internal ingress of moisture and cold air.
2. A ventilation gap is needed on top of the insulation to dry it.
3. All floors and other wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic compound to prevent premature destruction of the material.
4. Materials with a low level of heat and moisture resistance cannot be used in the steam room.
5. Insulation should be chosen from among those that do not deform under the influence of moisture and high temperatures and do not emit hazardous chemicals.

Necessary properties of heaters for a bath:

• heat resistance;
• moisture resistance;
• environmental friendliness;
• Fire safety.

Natural heaters require special processing before use. Otherwise, mold, fungus and harmful insects may soon appear. In this case, it is more expedient to use artificial heaters.

Foam application

Many home craftsmen are interested in whether it is possible to insulate the bath with foam. After all, it is a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-use material. However, it should be said that the bath can be insulated with foam from the outside or along the foundation.

To the question of whether it is possible to insulate the bath with foam plastic from the inside, most experts will answer in the negative. This is due to the fact that the foam is easily destroyed under the influence of high temperatures. The low moisture resistance of this material causes it to rot under the influence of high humidity. Therefore, for the interior of the bath, foam plastic can only be used in rooms where moisture almost does not get.

Use of mineral wool

The question of whether it is possible to insulate a bath with mineral wool is, as a rule, resolved positively.

After all, mineral wool is an almost universal modern insulation that has many positive technical characteristics. Among them should be mentioned:

• reliability;
• moisture resistance;
• heat resistance;
• fire safety;
• resistance to decay;
• simple installation.

Therefore, mineral wool can be used as a bath insulation both outside and in the interior, including the steam room.

Foam insulation

Is it possible to insulate the bath from the inside with foam plastic? This is quite acceptable, given some of the technical characteristics of the material. In the presence of many useful properties, foam plastic is a hygroscopic material, with low heat resistance.

Therefore, in the steam room, it is better to use it only on the walls and be sure to cover it with foil. In other branches of the bath, it is quite suitable.

Floor insulation in the bath

The floor in the bath is usually made of wooden boards or concrete. The board is used in relatively dry rooms. Concrete - in the washing room and in the steam room. The technology of floor insulation depends on the base material.

Expanded clay (3-5 mm), extruded polystyrene or boiler slag is most often used to insulate a concrete floor. The upper level of the floor at the end of the insulation work is understood to be 15-20 cm. The work is carried out in the following order.

The concrete base must be leveled and cleaned of construction debris and dust. Next, an adhesive composition is applied to the surface in 2-3 layers. Most often, special mastics are used for this, for example, rubber concrete. A waterproofing agent is laid on the adhesive composition - high-strength polyethylene or roofing material.

After the waterproofing has set, the laying of the insulation begins. An adhesive composition is again applied on top of it, on which a waterproofing agent is laid. The last layer is a reinforced concrete screed, at least 30 mm thick. Concrete must be leveled and properly dried. Finishing such a floor is usually done using ceramic tiles. Under it, you can place a system of underfloor heating.

To insulate a wooden floor, you must first remove the old boards. A cranial bar is planted on the remaining beams from below. It must be wrapped with roofing material or heavy-duty polyethylene. A rough floor covering is laid on top of the waterproofing. For this, bulk materials or mineral wool are mainly used. Is it possible to insulate the floor in the bath with isopink? It is possible if the floor is wooden and arranged in a room with a low level of moisture.

superimposed on top of the insulation waterproofing material. Then the board for the finishing floor is laid. A plinth is attached around the perimeter of the room. The final paintwork is not used in this case, since these materials release toxins under the influence of temperature and moisture. If desired, the wooden floor can be covered with special rubberized mats. They will make the room cozy and will not cause much trouble when cleaning. The floor in the bath is insulated mainly for greater user comfort. Floor insulation has little effect on the overall temperature inside the bath rooms.

Roof insulation

How can you insulate the roof of the bath - this problem is solved depending on the use of the premises. If the bath building is intended only for hygienic procedures and relaxation, it will be enough to insulate the roof by laying roofing material on the crate before mounting the roofing pie. In the case when brooms are dried inside the bath, linen and other equipment are stored, the roof must be thoroughly insulated.

Before insulating a bath, you need to take into account certain factors that affect this process. It is necessary to take into account what material the bath was built from (brick, wooden modules or foam block), to study all the climatic features of your area.

Log house thermal insulation

From time immemorial, a log house was built for a traditional Russian bath. Although it is known that the tree retains heat quite well and the log house can be more than 20 cm in diameter, it is still worth insulating the bath using additional materials.

But why is it still worth warming the bath? The reasons for this are as follows:

Now you are convinced that it is extremely necessary to insulate your bath. So, let's look at ways to warm the bath from the outside. To best insulate the log house, caulking (caulking) should be carried out.

Most often, caulking occurs in 3 stages:

• during the first stage, the crowns are stacked one on one, a special interventional insulation is placed on the lower crown;
• you should already go to the second stage in a year, immediately after shrinkage occurs;
• but the third stage of warming occurs only after four years, already the field of how the bath was built. At this stage, caulking is presented as the restoration of a previously installed bath insulation.

If new cracks have already appeared in the bath and it began to quickly release heat, then it is worth using a heater based on jute and linen. This jute retains heat well and does not ignite. The truth should be remembered that it can easily tear. And for this reason, flax was added to the insulation. When filling the cracks with this insulation, it is important to do this very carefully, since if you are careless, you can provoke a skew of the bath. Also, to eliminate unwanted gaps, you can use a sealant that has the shape of a syringe. It is easier to use and fills all the gaps with high quality.

Brick bath, insulation procedure

It is known that a brick wall cools much faster than wooden surface, for example, a log house. This is because the brick gives off heat much faster. And although there are practically no cracks or gaps in the brick walls, the brick wall still heats up for a very long time. But remember that this applies to an uninsulated room.

It is best to choose mineral wool for brick walls, as it has good heat-insulating and fire-resistant properties.

As a hydro and vapor barrier, it is best to use isospan. Since it is this material that protects mineral wool from all kinds of moisture.

Remember that excessive moisture contributes to the occurrence of fungus and without isospan, thermal insulation may not last as long as you would like. Speaking of decorative design walls in your bath, it all depends on your material means and preferences. But it is best to protect the thermal insulation from the outside, using siding or lining.

1. The preparation of the walls is reduced to the removal of various kinds of protruding fittings, air conditioners, old finish etc. If in brickwork There are gaps that need to be sealed. cement mortar(embroider), otherwise convective air currents will carry away heat from the bath through the insulation layer, and cold masses from the street will be sucked in through the cracks in the lower part of the walls.
   
   

   
   

2. First you need to drill holes for the dowels to fix the metal brackets into the brick wall. The metal brackets themselves, namely the distance between them, must correspond to the selected dimensions of the insulation. Remember that the length of the brackets should slightly exceed the thickness of the insulation, otherwise the facade will be inefficiently ventilated, moisture will accumulate in the wool.

   
   

3. Brackets are fixed with dowels, to which, after laying the mineral wool slabs, aluminum or galvanized stainless steel profiles are attached. The thickness of the mineral wool slabs is selected based on climatic conditions, For middle lane In Russia, 15 cm slabs are sufficient, or two-layer laying of 100 and 50 mm insulating mats is acceptable. Cotton wool is inserted between the brackets, laying is carried out from the bottom up, additional fixation is carried out by "fungi" - facade dowels.

Note! The metal frame with brackets can be replaced with wooden planks. In this case, 50x50 mm bars are used, which are fixed vertically on a brick wall. For fastening, dowels are used, they are inserted into pre-drilled holes in the wall. Holes for anchors are also drilled in the bars. The distance between the bars is chosen according to the formula "Insulation width minus 1-1.5 cm." Plates 50 mm thick are inserted between the guides. When the mats are laid, the sheathing beams for the second layer of insulation are horizontally fixed and both layers of insulation are attached to the wall with facade “fungi”. The last stage of work, both in the first case and when using wooden bars, is stretching the Izospan strips, gluing its joints, after which a vertical counter-lattice for siding / lining is stuffed.

"Wet" methods of warming a brick bath

The procedure for warming a frame building

The design of the frame-panel bath is very simple and relatively light, so we understand that it is not suitable for large mass heaters. And although mineral wool has a small weight, complete with decorative trim, the mass becomes decent. Over time, this can lead to deformation of the walls of your frame-panel bath. Therefore, it will be much better to use polystyrene foam for insulation, because this insulation is much lighter and will not contribute to the deformation of the walls.

Styrofoam also has properties such as heat capacity and hydrophobicity. And there is no doubt that this material will serve you for many years. Do not forget that the foam has a number of other advantages. When insulating with this material, you will not need to build a separate frame, the foam should only be attached to a special glue.

As a decorative finish, you can use mesh plastering. But remember that this should be done only after you have laid the insulation and the glue has completely dried.

Due to the fact that many craftsmen believe that when heated, the foam loses its shape and begins to gradually collapse, they still recommend thinking about using mineral wool when insulating the walls of your frame-panel bath. The choice is yours, because in any case there is a risk.

Video - Do-it-yourself warming of a frame bath

Video - Rules and errors of warming the bath from the inside and outside

How to insulate a foam block bath

Many experts argue that a foam block bath should be insulated using the same technology that is used when insulating a brick bath. Others consider this opinion to be erroneous, all because the surface of the foam block is porous. It follows from this that a foam block bath must be protected from moisture from the inside, while a waterproofing material is sufficient for a brick bath.

For insulation of foam concrete walls, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene. This is a fairly durable material with high thermal insulation properties and physical and chemical parameters, it is easy to install even alone. The only drawback is the possibility of damage to the insulation by rodents.

Insulation of a bath from a foam block, the main stages of work

Important note. Aerated concrete bath is insulated according to the same principle as a cinder block bath.

For insulation, you can use basalt wool or foam plastic with a thickness of more than 50 mm. The selected material must be placed between the laths of the crate (the installation procedure is described above). Make sure that there are no gaps between the crate and the heat insulator.

If foam plastic is used for insulation, it is recommended to additionally fix it with facade dowels or use glue, and glue the joints of the sheets with construction tape.

A waterproofing material is stretched over the insulation layer, and the overlaps of adjacent sheets of 10-15 cm are strictly observed and glued. Next, the decorative facade panels will be fixed.

How to insulate a bath from the inside

The technologies for warming a log house and a brick bath are very similar. Most masters do not consider it necessary to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside, paying attention only to the roof, ceiling and foundation. So let's find out the reasons why you should insulate the bath from the inside and what technologies exist for this.

Why you need to insulate the bath from the inside

Diameter wooden crown in a log cabin bath, most often it is 20 centimeters. If the caulking was done with high quality, then it will not be necessary to insulate your bath from the inside at all. But there are still reasons why it is necessary:

• it may happen that the diameter of the crown in the log house is small, which in the future will lead to poor thermal insulation;
• the bath must be insulated from the inside if the foundation has not been insulated. Or was insulated, but very weakly;
• due to bad weather conditions, the insulation of the bath from the outside is insufficient.

The masters are sure that if the bath is insulated with sufficient quality, then it will take 3 times less energy to heat it, and it will be possible to use a weaker stove.

The walls of an insulated bath in their structure are very reminiscent of a thermos (sometimes this is called a “pie” of insulation). After all, those who are going to really insulate the bath with high quality will need steam and waterproofing.

The walls of an insulated bath have the following structure: a pre-prepared wall, a mandatory layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier and, of course, a decorative finish.

If you choose correctly quality material, then you can independently cope with the warming of the bath from the inside very quickly. To insulate the bath, you will need material that will be:

• high quality, with high thermal insulation properties;
• not prone to decay, and will not be damaged by various insects;
• most importantly, the insulation must be fire resistant, because the temperature in the bath can be above 100 degrees.

Since not all materials are suitable in terms of quality and properties for internal insulation of a bath, most often experts use basalt wool. In addition to the fact that it has a very reasonable price, basalt wool is also suitable for other parameters. In addition, it is recommended to choose special synthetic boards that have a soft structure.

It should be remembered that when insulating walls, hydro and vapor barrier should be performed in parallel with thermal insulation, because these processes are closely related.

First of all, you should prepare the surface of the walls.

If you see any gaps or seams, then they should be filled with plaster. Also for these purposes, experts recommend the use of sealant. After you have finished, you should move on to the next step - waterproofing.

Note. If your bath was made from a log house, then waterproofing immediately after construction is strictly prohibited. To begin with, you should wait until the shrinkage ends, often it takes more than a year.

How is hydro and thermal insulation made?

First of all, the walls, floor and ceiling of the bath should be protected from moisture. It is best to use a polyethylene film or a special foil.

The insulation technology itself using foil is simple. You should do the following:

Note. All bars must be lubricated with a special antiseptic in advance.

Bath decoration from the outside

Due to the fact that we already have the necessary wooden frame, we just have to find a quality material for the external decoration of the bath. Only after that the warming of the bath can be completed. Most often, wooden lining is used for the external cladding of a bath in Russia.

In conclusion, to all of the above, it will not be superfluous to pay attention to interesting and helpful tips specialists.