Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the outside: technologies, materials, step-by-step instructions. When is the insulation of the bath from the outside does not make sense and when is the external insulation of the walls justified? How to do it? How to insulate a bath outside with your own hands

Before insulating a bath, you need to take into account certain factors that affect this process. It is necessary to take into account what material the bath was built from (brick, wooden modules or foam block), to study all the climatic features of your area.

From time immemorial, a log house was built for a traditional Russian bath. Although it is known that the tree retains heat quite well and the log house can be more than 20 cm in diameter, it is still worth insulating the bath using additional materials.

But why is it still worth warming the bath? The reasons for this are as follows:

Now you are convinced that it is extremely necessary to insulate your bath. So, let's look at ways to warm the bath from the outside. To best insulate the log house, caulking (caulking) should be carried out.

Log cabin caulking - reliable insulation

Most often occurs in 3 stages:

• during the first stage, the crowns are stacked one on one, a special interventional insulation is placed on the lower crown;
• you should already go to the second stage in a year, immediately after shrinkage occurs;
• but the third stage of warming occurs only after four years, already the field of how the bath was built. At this stage, caulking is presented as the restoration of a previously installed bath insulation.

If new cracks have already appeared in the bath and it began to quickly release heat, then it is worth using a heater based on jute and linen. This jute retains heat well and does not ignite. The truth should be remembered that it can easily tear. And for this reason, flax was added to the insulation. When filling the cracks with this insulation, it is important to do this very carefully, since if you are careless, you can provoke a skew of the bath. Also, to eliminate unwanted gaps, you can use a sealant that has the shape of a syringe. It is easier to use and fills all the gaps with high quality.

Brick bath, insulation procedure

It is known that a brick wall cools much faster than wooden surface, for example, a log house. This is because the brick gives off heat much faster. And although there are practically no cracks or gaps in the brick walls, the brick wall still heats up for a very long time. But remember that this applies to an uninsulated room.

Best for brick walls choose mineral wool, as it has good heat-insulating and fire-resistant properties.

As a hydro and vapor barrier, it is best to use isospan. Since it is this material that protects mineral wool from all kinds of moisture.

Remember that excessive moisture contributes to the occurrence of fungus and without isospan, thermal insulation may not last as long as you would like. Speaking of decorative design walls in your bath, it all depends on your material means and preferences. But it is best to protect the thermal insulation from the outside, using siding or lining.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

1. The preparation of the walls is reduced to the removal of various kinds of protruding fittings, air conditioners, old finish etc. If there are gaps in the brickwork, it is necessary to seal them with cement mortar (embroider), otherwise convective air currents will carry away heat from the bath through the insulation layer, and cold masses from the street will be sucked in through the cracks in the lower part of the walls.

   

   

2. First you need to drill holes for the dowels to fix the metal brackets into the brick wall. The metal brackets themselves, namely the distance between them, must correspond to the selected dimensions of the insulation. Remember that the length of the brackets should slightly exceed the thickness of the insulation, otherwise the facade will be inefficiently ventilated, moisture will accumulate in the wool.

   

3. Brackets are fixed with dowels, to which, after laying the mineral wool slabs, aluminum or galvanized stainless steel profiles are attached. The thickness of the mineral wool slabs is selected based on climatic conditions, For middle lane In Russia, 15 cm slabs are sufficient, or two-layer laying of 100 and 50 mm insulating mats is acceptable. Cotton wool is inserted between the brackets, laying is carried out from the bottom up, additional fixation is carried out by “fungi” - facade dowels.

   
   
   

Note! The metal frame with brackets can be replaced with wooden planks. In this case, bars of 50x50 mm are used, which are fixed vertically on brick wall. For fastening, dowels are used, they are inserted into the pre- drilled holes in the wall. Holes for anchors are also drilled in the bars. The distance between the bars is chosen according to the formula “Insulation width minus 1-1.5 cm”. Plates 50 mm thick are inserted between the guides. When the mats are laid, the sheathing beams for the second layer of insulation are fixed horizontally and both layers of insulation are attached to the wall with facade “fungi”. The last stage of work, both in the first case and when using wooden bars, is stretching the Izospan strips, gluing its joints, after which a vertical counter-lattice for siding / lining is stuffed.

"Wet" methods of warming a brick bath

Isospan prices

The procedure for warming a frame building

The design of the frame-panel bath is very simple and relatively light, so we understand that it is not suitable for large mass heaters. And although mineral wool has a small weight, complete with decorative trim, the mass becomes decent. Over time, this can lead to deformation of the walls of your frame-panel bath. Therefore, it will be much better to use polystyrene foam for insulation, because this insulation is much lighter and will not contribute to the deformation of the walls.

Photo - warming process frame bath polystyrene

Styrofoam also has properties such as heat capacity and hydrophobicity. And there is no doubt that this material will serve you for many years. Do not forget that the foam has a number of other advantages. When insulating with this material, you will not need to build a separate frame, the foam should only be attached to a special glue.

As decorative finishes you can use plastering on the grid. But remember that this should be done only after you have laid the insulation and the glue has completely dried.

Due to the fact that many craftsmen believe that when heated, the foam loses its shape and begins to gradually collapse, they still recommend thinking about using mineral wool when insulating the walls of your frame-panel bath. The choice is yours, because in any case there is a risk.

Video - Do-it-yourself warming of a frame bath

Video - Rules and errors of warming the bath from the inside and outside

How to insulate a foam block bath

Many experts argue that it should be insulated using the same technology that is used when insulating a brick bath. Others consider this opinion to be erroneous, all because the surface of the foam block is porous. It follows from this that a foam block bath must be protected from moisture from the inside, while a waterproofing material is sufficient for a brick bath.

For insulation of foam concrete walls, it is recommended to use. This is a fairly durable material with high thermal insulation properties and physical and chemical parameters, it is easy to install even alone. The only drawback is the possibility of damage to the insulation by rodents.

Styrofoam prices

polystyrene foam

Insulation of a bath from a foam block, the main stages of work

Important note. Aerated concrete bath is insulated according to the same principle as a cinder block bath.

For insulation, you can use basalt wool or foam plastic with a thickness of more than 50 mm. The selected material must be placed between the laths of the crate (the installation procedure is described above). Make sure that there are no gaps between the crate and the heat insulator.

If foam plastic is used for insulation, it is recommended to additionally fix it with facade dowels or use glue, and glue the joints of the sheets with construction tape.

A waterproofing material is stretched over the insulation layer, and the overlaps of adjacent sheets of 10-15 cm are strictly observed and glued. Next, the decorative facade panels will be fixed.

How to insulate a bath from the inside

Log house insulation technologies and brick bath very similar. Most masters do not consider it necessary to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside, paying attention only to the roof, ceiling and foundation. So let's find out the reasons why you should insulate the bath from the inside and what technologies exist for this.

Steam room insulation - photo

Why do you need

Diameter wooden crown in a log cabin bath, most often it is 20 centimeters. If the caulking was done with high quality, then it will not be necessary to insulate your bath from the inside at all. But there are still reasons why it is necessary:

• it may happen that the diameter of the crown in the log house is small, which in the future will lead to poor thermal insulation;
• the bath must be insulated from the inside if the foundation has not been insulated. Or was insulated, but very weakly;
• due to bad weather conditions, the insulation of the bath from the outside is insufficient.

The masters are sure that if the bath is insulated with sufficient quality, then it will take 3 times less energy to heat it, and it will be possible to use a weaker stove.

The walls of an insulated bath in their structure are very reminiscent of a thermos (sometimes this is called a “pie” of insulation). After all, those who are going to really insulate the bath with high quality will need steam and waterproofing.

The walls of an insulated bath have the following structure: a pre-prepared wall, a mandatory layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier and, of course, a decorative finish.

If you choose right quality material, then you can independently cope with the warming of the bath from the inside very quickly. To insulate the bath, you will need material that will be:

• high quality, with high thermal insulation properties;
• not prone to decay, and will not be damaged by various insects;
• most importantly, the insulation must be fire resistant, because the temperature in the bath can be above 100 degrees.

Since not all materials are suitable in terms of quality and properties for internal insulation baths, most often experts use basalt wool. In addition to the fact that it has a very reasonable price, basalt wool is also suitable for other parameters. In addition, it is recommended to choose special synthetic boards that have a soft structure.

It should be remembered that when insulating walls, hydro and vapor barrier should be performed in parallel with thermal insulation, because these processes are closely related.

First of all, you should prepare the surface of the walls.

If you see any gaps or seams, then they should be filled with plaster. Also for these purposes, experts recommend the use of sealant. After you have finished, you should move on to the next step - waterproofing.

Note. If your bath was made from a log house, then waterproofing immediately after construction is strictly prohibited. To begin with, you should wait until the shrinkage ends, often it takes more than a year.

How is hydro and thermal insulation made?

First of all, the walls, floor and ceiling of the bath should be protected from moisture. It is best to use a polyethylene film or a special foil.

The insulation technology itself using foil is simple. You should do the following:

• first of all, wooden blocks (4 * 4 centimeters) should be vertically attached to the wall of your bath. It is to them that the foil will be attached. Make sure that all the bars are in the same plane, when working, use a laser level or pull a reference cord for convenience. If necessary, place thin wedges between the wall and the bars. Fasten the bars with long self-tapping screws, pre-drilling holes for them in the wall and the bars themselves;

  

• then a heater should be placed between the bars (it should not be thicker than the bars themselves);

  

• foil is attached to the bars, which is carefully stretched and fixed with a special stapler;
• all possible joints should be insulated with aluminum construction tape;

  

• on top of the foil, which has been carefully fixed, you need to fill the bars of wood in a vertical direction;
• and lastly, the facing board (lining) should be attached to the bars.

  

Note. All bars must be lubricated with a special antiseptic in advance.

Bath decoration from the outside

Due to the fact that we already have the necessary wooden frame, we just have to find a quality material for the external decoration of the bath. Only after that the warming of the bath can be completed. Most often, for the external cladding of baths in Russia, they use

In conclusion, to all of the above, it will not be superfluous to pay attention to interesting and helpful tips specialists.

1. First of all, do not forget that heated air masses can exit the bath through the windows. And for this reason it is worth giving preference to windows small size. What is also important, experts recommend, if possible, to install frames with more than one double-glazed window. And it is best that there are 2 or 3 double-glazed windows (the more, the better, because this will prevent the rapid evaporation of warm air from the bath).

   

   Small window in the bath - photo

2. An important influence on the thermal insulation in your bath is provided by doors and a threshold. Quite often, specialists are approached with the problem of rapid evaporation of air from the bath. And the reason for this in 90% is the gap between the threshold and the door, because of which all the heat evaporates. To make sure you don't run into this kind of problem, it's best to install low doors with a high sill.

   

It was like that four hundred years ago, when European ambassadors reported to their sovereigns that the Russians are the cleanest people in Europe: they bathe in a bath every week. She remains that way to this day.

And this can be confirmed by the fact that, both in former times and now, future homeowners, starting to build their house, began it with the construction of a bathhouse on the site. After all, how is a bathhouse different from a residential building? The same walls and roof, the same wood-burning stove, the same benches for sitting and shelves for lying - everything is the same, only in a reduced size. And you can live in a bathhouse while the main house is being built, and warm the water and cook food if necessary.

Do I need to insulate the bath?

The traditional material for the construction of baths in Rus' has always been wood. However, not only baths: as early as the beginning of the 20th century. wooden buildings constituted the overwhelming majority in the total volume of urban development, and in rural areas - except that only temples were built of stone. But even today, despite the huge number of modern building materials on the market, wood has not lost popularity due to its unique qualities and, first of all, its unsurpassedly low thermal conductivity among natural building materials.

Nevertheless, the insulation of wooden buildings is not a waste of money. It allows you to significantly reduce both heating costs and operating costs for future repairs and reconstruction, and as a result of these savings, you can repeatedly justify the additional costs of building materials.

That is why zealous owners have always been attentive to the issues of warming their, even wooden, buildings, and for buildings made of concrete, brick and block materials this is a mandatory requirement.

However, bath insulation has its own specifics and differences from the thermal protection of residential buildings, due to non-permanent, episodic, operation and special temperature regime. Usually the bath rooms are used once a week, heating them up to extremely high temperatures - 80~120°C and above. The rest of the time, its walls freeze through in winter to very low temperatures - -30 ° C and below. Not every building material can withstand such thermal overloads for a long time.

Therefore, bath rooms need be sure to provide internal thermal insulation, which:

• protect wall materials from impact high temperature;
• for a long time will keep the temperature regime inside the bath due to the reduction of heat loss;
• will allow you to quickly heat the bathhouse avoiding unnecessary fuel consumption for heating the frozen walls.

Additionally reduce heat loss and protect the walls already from the effects of low temperatures external insulation will help. It:

• shift the boundary of the temperature zero from the internal volume of the walls outward - into the insulation layer, significantly softening the temperature regime for their material;
• prevent dampening of the walls by removing the dew point from their surface;
• this will eliminate the causes for decay and the appearance of fungus.

Thus, the obligatory internal thermal insulation of the bath rooms is not at all superfluous, but it is even very useful to combine them with their external thermal protection.

How to insulate a bath from the outside

In the modern construction market today is represented the widest choice of various heat-insulating materials, among which:

1. Inorganic:

• Mineral wool - common name for a number of heaters: stone, basalt, slag and glass wool. Thanks to many advantages, one of which is absolute incombustibility, it holds the lead among the most popular heat insulators.
• Warm plaster combined the traditional method of decorative finishing with the use of cement mortar filler with heat-insulating properties, which are usually used as vermiculite and perlite or modern foamed polymers.
• Foam glass, produced by sintering molten and foamed glass recyclables, has unique characteristics: full waterproofness, biochemical resistance, absolute incombustibility, environmental friendliness.

organic:

• Arbolit, fibrolit and other types concrete blocks and slabs with fillers of plant origin, which can be used as both structural building material and insulation.
• Tow, jute and some other types vegetable fiber materials are usually used for caulking and interventional insulation of wooden buildings.
• Foamed polymers, among which the most famous are foam, extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, which are the best heat insulators of artificial origin today. These also include penoizol, penofol and many others.
• Cellulose insulation, which is essentially cotton wool recycled from recycled paper and cardboard, has very good heat-shielding properties.

The variety of presented materials, taking into account all their varieties and modifications, causes confusion at first, but upon closer examination it turns out that there is everything three main technologies for performing external thermal insulation buildings:

1. "Well" insulation used for inter-wall thermal insulation of brick and frame-panel buildings. It can be attributed, for example, well insulation brickwork or the popular method of building from heat blocks - special “sandwiches” consisting of two load-bearing surfaces fastened with jumpers with a heat insulator gasket between them, as well as pouring penoizol and filling expanded clay or cellulose wool into the inter-wall space or in the gap between the wall and the sheathing.
2. "Wet" facade called a method of thermal protection using sheets of heat-insulating material glued or attached to the surface of the walls, which, after fitting with a reinforcing mesh, are plastered or pasted over with facing facade materials. This method is mainly used for walls made of mineral materials: concrete, brick, various blocks, but is often used for wooden walls.
3. Called "Ventilated" facade insulation method is one of the most popular. Suffice it to say that traditional clapboard wall cladding is one of its examples. It has recently been joined by block house cladding, decorative facade panels, and various types of siding.

For external insulation of the bath any of these methods will work. Differences will only be determined source material walls, on which the method used will depend. If we consider only those methods and materials that can be performed with minimal cost with your own hands, the circle narrows even more.

For example, work on insulation with sprayed insulation: cellulose or polyurethane foam requires special expensive equipment and skills to manage it, and therefore are not suitable for independent implementation. Some materials, such as foam glass or cork insulation, are quite expensive, especially for auxiliary buildings.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the bath with polystyrene foam

How to insulate a bath from the outside? Wet and ventilated facade technologies on initial stage works are very similar to each other, differing only in the used top coat. Consider step by step how you can do the insulation of the walls of the bath from the outside with your own hands:

1. Despite the coating with an external heat insulator, the interventional cracks in the walls must be well caulked. If this has not been done, now is the time to do it.
2. It is advisable to treat the walls with antipyrine and antiseptic.
3. To reduce vaporization between the walls and the insulation layer, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap. For this purpose, a vertical crate of 30 ~ 50 mm thick bars is stuffed onto the walls.
4. Sheets of insulation are mounted horizontally on it with the help of special dowels - "umbrellas" with the location of the vertical seams of each row in a checkerboard pattern.
5. For ideal thermal protection, the first layer of insulation should be covered with the second, placing the foam sheets already vertically. They can be fixed with a special glue for polystyrene foam.
6. Such a facade can then be covered with a plastic reinforcing mesh and plastered. If at the same time you use "warm" plaster, this will additionally strengthen the thermal insulation.

As you can see, doing a very effective thermal insulation of the bath with your own hands is not so difficult. This method can be used for other buildings on the site: a garage, a corral for pets, a greenhouse or greenhouse, and other auxiliary buildings, both wooden and stone. It is also suitable for warming a residential building, at least its foundation.

When building a bath (it doesn’t matter - brick, wooden, expanded clay concrete blocks or any other material), you need to worry not only about building a solid and robust design. Not less than important issue thermal insulation is the protection of the building from heat loss. performed quite simply but according to certain rules.

This is a crucial nuance for any building, but for a bath, due to the need to maintain a high temperature, it is most relevant.

It doesn’t matter what kind of building you have - a small “box” of blocks covered with corrugated board, or a whole house with lounges - you need to work on both sides: both inside and outside the building.

1 On the importance and necessity of thermal insulation

The atmosphere prevailing in the steam room can be described in two words: hot and humid. To be precise, the temperature in the bath (we will consider the traditional Russian as an example) reaches about +80 degrees (or even higher - up to +90), and the humidity is about 70%..

It goes without saying that such conditions are not easy to maintain, and this depends not only on the power of the stove. You can install even the most expensive unit, but if the bath is not properly insulated, it will not be of much use.

The necessary conditions simply cannot be created, and if it does, it will be very difficult to maintain them: the heated air will easily go outside. To summarize the above, we can form the following list of disadvantages of the lack of insulation:

• an increase in heating costs (it doesn’t matter what the stove is running on - much more fuel will be required, which means you will have to pay more);
• acceleration of equipment wear (due to the fact that the furnace will have to be loaded more);
• slow heating of the steam room.

In addition, we should not forget about the negative effects of moisture and cold on the building itself. Regardless of what it is - brick or expanded clay concrete blocks - in any case, the building will deteriorate.

This happens due to the fact that in winter (or in general - at sub-zero temperatures), moisture that gets into micropores, as well as into cracks, joints and holes, freezes, while increasing in volume. At the same time, it cannot be ignored.

And since there can be more than one hundred (!) of such freeze-thaw cycles per season, in just a few years the surface of the walls will be covered with a network of cracks, and over the years the process will accelerate.

Add here also the sharp temperature drop that occurs during the heating of the steam room: let's say it's -30 outside, and the temperature of the walls quickly, literally in an hour (depending on what your bath is made of and how powerful the stove is), will rise to +70 and above. It goes without saying that a drop of about a hundred degrees will also not be useful for construction.

1.1 Why insulate the outside?

When insulating a bath with their own hands, many often believe that the first step is to isolate the steam room from the inside. This is true - after all, it is in this room that it is required to maintain the desired temperature. can serve as an excellent material.

However, the use of only internal insulation shifts the dew point - it is just between the insulation and the surface of the walls. As a result, moisture begins to accumulate, and the building itself, again, remains unprotected.

So besides internal works do not forget that the insulation of the bath from the outside is an equally important and relevant issue. In addition, additional thermal insulation will not be superfluous - the use of another layer of insulation outside the walls will further improve the microclimate inside the steam room. By the way, it is quite simple

2 How to insulate?

To isolate the bath from the inside, you can not use any insulation - materials that are afraid of moisture are not recommended. And if applied, then with a serious and properly used waterproofing.

Outside, things are better - there is no exposure to such an amount of moisture, which means that the choice of materials that can be used is also increasing. For walls (it doesn’t matter what kind of bath your bath is - brick, or made of expanded clay concrete blocks), it is most relevant to use any insulation from the list below:

1. Minvatoy.
2. Styrofoam / Styrofoam.

The first two materials can also be used with your own hands: such insulators do not require special knowledge and experience. The third heater will already require the services of specialists. Let's take a closer look at each of the mentioned insulators and figure out exactly how to use them with your own hands to insulate walls.

2.1 The use of mineral wool (video)

2.2 Insulation with mineral wool insulation

Mineral wool insulation has been used for several decades, and judging by the fact that the number of products on this basis continues to grow, there is still a demand for it. An alternative to minvata is.

Despite the fact that now there are many other insulators that are of better quality, more reliable and easier to use, such materials are still relevant.

Mineral wool is usually sold in rolls or in slabs. For walls, of course, the second option is more convenient - rolls are best used for horizontal surfaces. Moreover, it can be applied to

The thermal conductivity of the product is not the best: this figure is in the region of 0.04 W / mK (depending on the type and brand). However, since the insulation will be attached from the outside - this is not a significant drawback - it can simply be used in a thick layer. But some properties of mineral wool make it not the most successful material:

• poor resistance to moisture - under the influence of moisture, the material crumples, cakes;
• increased complexity of work (compared to foam);
• the need to use protective equipment for the skin and face.

Of the tangible advantages (except for relative cheapness), one can single out the fact that mineral wool can be mounted even on an uneven wall surface that has protrusions and height differences.

The process itself, if you do it yourself, looks something like this (the list of stages is the same for both a brick bath and for building from expanded clay concrete blocks):

1. The surface of the walls is checked - they should not have cracks, chips, holes. If there are any, they should be sealed with plaster.
2. Wooden framing is being installed.
3. A vapor barrier film is glued to the wall (this item can be skipped).
4. A heater is placed between the crate.
5. A waterproofing film is stretched over the crate (when insulating with mineral wool, this is a mandatory nuance).
6. The cladding material is being installed.

2.3 Application of foam (video)

2.4 Insulation with Styrofoam or Styrofoam

Insulators from the category of gas-filled plastics have also been known for a long time. The brightest and most popular representative is ordinary foam. This insulation is extremely easy to use - we can easily install the blocks with our own hands, even if before that you didn’t know how exactly this was done.

It is not surprising that this particular material is widely and universally used to isolate various parts of buildings, including how.

Its better and more efficient "brother" is extruded polystyrene foam. This insulation is distinguished by better thermal conductivity (approximately 0.03-0.035 versus 0.04 for polystyrene) and complete resistance to moisture. By the way, it can be produced with his participation.

The materials themselves are similar in appearance, have a small weight (which, again, makes it easier to do it yourself) and are absolutely identical in terms of application. By the way, with regard to the work itself - such a heater does not require any precautions (like mineral wool).

However, for laying blocks, it is required to have a perfectly flat surface, which somewhat complicates the process. The very sequence of actions with your own hands is as follows (the same for a brick building, and for a structure made of expanded clay concrete blocks):

1. The surface of the walls is checked - they should not have cracks, chips, holes. If there are any, they should be sealed with plaster, then applied.
2. The surface of the walls is primed at least 1 time.
3. Starting from the bottom corner (any) and moving sideways, the foam / EPS is glued to the surface with a special adhesive solution (sold in the same place as the insulation itself).
4. Each of the blocks is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws (approximately 5 pieces per 1 sheet).
5. The joints between the sheets are glued with adhesive tape, or foamed. Alternatively, you can simply cover them with plaster.
6. A waterproofing film is stretched over the insulation on the crate.
7. The installation of the facing layer and further finishing is in progress.

2.5 Application of PPU (video)

2.6 Insulation with spray foam

Relatively new technology insulation is sprayed polyurethane foam. This insulator is liquid - it is obtained by mixing two components. Preparation is carried out directly at the place of work, in a special installation.

The capacity of such units is equipped with a stirrer - to maintain the desired consistency of the solution. Better and more expensive models are also equipped with heating (necessary for the same purposes).

You can stop on this material. The insulation itself can be safely called ideal: it is lightweight, not afraid of moisture or any other negative factors (rodents, mold), and has a minimum thermal conductivity (around 0.025 W / mK).

In addition, the surface of expanded clay concrete (or any other) walls does not require leveling, and the resulting insulation layer is monolithic and has no seams or joints.

Its most basic disadvantage is the impossibility of doing it yourself: the aforementioned special installation is expensive. And the spraying service itself is also expensive.

For reference, here is a sequence of actions when using this technology:

1. The surface is checked for cracks, chips. If available, they are covered with plaster.
2. PPU is being prepared.
3. The crate is mounted on the wall.
4. PPU is sprayed onto the surface.
5. On top of the insulation, along the crate, the installation of the cladding and further finishing is carried out.

The Russian bath is still cut from wood, but for changing log cabin came technologically advanced designs:

• log house made of logs;
• log house from a bar (glue or profiled).

If the thickness of the logs of the Russian bath in the old days allowed for warming only the space between the crowns, then the less powerful body of the rounded log, and even more so, the beam requires complex work on the insulation of the building designed for use in any season of the year.

Bath must comply with the thermos principle- keep warm at any external temperature. In this regard, the significance of the design solutions of the project is significant: according to the method of connecting wooden elements when knitting crowns, according to the location of the steam room relative to the soap and dressing room, the height and thickness of the windows, the size doorways, the height of the thresholds, the design of the "heater".

But you can not belittle the system of measures for the insulation of external walls, floors and ceilings, technological features this process in different rooms baths.

Materials suitable for baths

A bath is a place where all structural elements constantly endure temperature changes and their contrasts. Under conditions of damp heat, the evaporation of many synthetic substances and polymers is activated, tactile contact with heated building materials may result in burns.

These operational features determine the mandatory specifications materials used for warming baths: thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, fire safety, natural components, environmental friendliness.

In order for the bath to become a place of health promotion, it is preferable to assemble a log house from the wood of Siberian forests(cedar, larch, pine) harvested in winter. Hardwoods are chosen for facing the premises, which do not emit resins and essential oils when heated.

Popular heaters from ancient times were organic and natural: clay, peat, expanded clay, flax fiber, moss, jute, tow.

New synthetic- non-combustible mineral heaters, magnesite plates, gypsum fiber, expanded polystyrene, honeycomb.

Waterproofing often perform bituminous mastic, glass hydrosol, euroroofing material (except for use in a steam room), polyethylene film with a density of 140 microns.

Optimal views vapor barriers for bath rooms are - kraft paper, aluminum foil, at the same time insulation - foil-foamed foam (polypropylene NPP laminated with foil).

The sequence of work on insulation

1. The very first stage of insulation will begin during the assembly of the log house, when between its elements it is necessary to lay an organic fibrous heat insulator: tow, jute, flax, dried moss or a combination thereof.

Only six months later complete this process using a hammer and caulking (special spatula), carefully closing the ends of the fibers into the seam. True, synthetic sealants also appeared for this purpose, but for a bath it is especially important to observe environmental safety under conditions of heating and evaporation.


2. When laying a bath, measures can be taken to insulate the floors, especially if they are built of concrete. In this case, you will have to perform ground work on leveling, dumping sand and expanded clay; pouring the base floor.
3. How to insulate the ceiling and walls of the bath? Warming is carried out from the inside and outside, but after the process of shrinkage of the structure has completed.
4. Measures to insulate windows and doors, exterior and interior cladding are working to preserve heat in the bathhouse.

Insulation of a wooden bath from the inside

How to insulate a bath from a log house (beam)? You should start with the insulation of the ceiling, it is he who takes on the first wave of heat and steam. The heat-insulating layer should be significant (in the steam room - up to 15 cm) with a mandatory vapor barrier membrane: for the steam room - this is foil, for other rooms - kraft paper or thick polyethylene. It is also enough to upholster the walls in the soapbox and dressing room from the inside with clapboard or wooden slabs of wood hardwood(aspens, lindens).

1. Ceiling insulation algorithm:

• overlap the surface with clean roll paper wooden ceiling(we fix it with tape and a stapler);
• we fasten bars across the ceiling that exceed the thickness of the insulation used (preferably hard mats made of basalt wool or slag fiber); for ceilings of the dressing room and soapbox, expanded clay, sand and even sawdust mixed with clay can be used as a heater;
• mats fit into the crate by surprise;
• the next layer is aluminum foil, the joints of which are glued with adhesive tape;
• on the foil, as the basis for the front sheathing, the crate is attached;
• if the ceiling of the bath will be used as the floor of another room, then 3 cm of cement-sand screed under the wooden flooring is made on top of the insulation layer.

Algorithm for wall insulation in a wooden bath (for a steam room):

Algorithm for floor insulation according to the base screed:

First way:

• bituminous mastic is applied to the concrete surface;
• after it dries, the floor is covered with a thick plastic film;
• next comes the fitting ceramic tiles or underfloor heating.

Second way:

• a layer of 15 cm of mineral wool is laid;
• it is covered with euroroofing material with entry to the level of the plinth;
• logs are treated with an antiseptic;
• the draft floor is laid;
• finished wooden floor from grooved boards.

The first method is more suitable for utility rooms baths, the second - for the steam room.

We warm the bath from the outside

To insulate does not mean only to protect from blowing. Insulate - provide conditions for maintaining a stable thermal regime indoors.

For log cabins or when building baths in areas with mild winters, it is quite enough to perform external wall insulation to protect the bath from heat leaks. Inside - only finishing from natural materials.

At the same time, it is possible to insulate the walls from the outside immediately after shrinkage of the log house, based on the thickness of its elements and the density of the crowns.

The attic is subject to external insulation:

• the ceiling is covered with glass hydrosol;
• it is covered with expanded clay, slag or mineral mats are laid over the insulator;
• a reinforced or non-reinforced screed is made from above.

For external wall insulation ventilated facade technology is used:

• a crate frame is created along the width of the sheets (mats, plates) of the insulation with an excess of the thickness of the sheets by 3 cm (for the ventilation gap);
• the insulation is placed in the construction of the crate by surprise from the bottom up:
• the diffuse membrane is attached to the crate with a stapler;
• veneer facades with varnished lumber, false timber or colored siding.

Requires special attention basement insulation, where the cooling of the walls, especially during the cold period, occurs especially intensively.

To do this, formwork is installed along the perimeter of the structure from boards up to half a meter high and 30 cm deep. The formwork cavity is lined with any waterproofing agent and covered with soil or expanded clay. From above it is closed by a board from erosion by rain water.

Additional insulation

Additional insulation windows are subject. To preserve heat, it is preferable to make them small and at the bottom of the wall. The most reliable are triple-glazed windows, provided they are tightly inserted into the wall openings, with cracks sealed.

High thresholds and small-sized door frames with a low ceiling will also serve to keep the heat in the room. The entrance from the dressing room to the soap room and the steam room should not be located on the same axis.

The dressing room should have a door insulated with thick felt with vinyl coated. The insulation should be 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the door. It is even better if the entrance to the dressing room is equipped with a closed vestibule.

The efforts and costs of warming the bath depend subsequently, the cost of firewood for its heating, and, finally, its safety and durability.

In order for the temperature to be maintained in the bath for as long as possible, and the costs of maintaining it as low as possible, baths need external insulation. In addition to solving this problem, external insulation also protects the building from direct contact with cold air and precipitation, which prolongs the life of the building.

The order and sequence of work on external insulation depends on the type of material used for the construction. For baths made of logs - rounded or simply sanded - this is usually a thorough sealing of all cracks and cracks: wood of sufficient thickness holds heat well on its own. Sometimes they insulate the steam room and the washing room from the inside.

If timber is used during construction, it is most likely necessary to insulate, but how it depends on its thickness and region (you need to know how severe the winters are). It is imperative to insulate baths built of bricks and building blocks - they have high thermal conductivity and to ensure the required temperature regime, the wall thickness must be at least 80 cm, which is very unprofitable from an economic point of view. Therefore, such baths are always insulated.

How to insulate a bath from a log from the outside

Almost all the insulation of a log bath comes down to careful sealing of cracks. Even during construction, a special jute insulation was laid between the crowns, but the wood dries out over time, cracks, and new cracks form, which need to be regularly caulked.

Warming of a bath from a log

After the erection of a log house and caulking of cracks, the building must stand under the roof for at least six months. All this time it is advisable not to use the bath. The log house will shrink, the wood will dry out, new cracks and gaps will appear. That's what they need to caulk. To do this, use a special insulation based on jute and flax. Jute itself does not conduct heat well and does not burn, but its disadvantage is low elasticity (it breaks easily). To solve this problem, flax fibers are added to the log house insulation. Thin strips of material are hammered into the slots with a hammer and a special metal spatula-caulker. This must be done carefully to prevent distortion of the structure.

There is also a special sealant for sealing cracks in wooden buildings. It is easier to work with it: all available voids are filled from a special syringe.

Warming a bath from a log with a sealant

Log cabin shrinks for two years. At this time, it is not recommended to sheathe it with finishing materials. So you will have access to newly appearing cracks that need to be periodically sealed from the inside and outside. To protect the insulation from the effects of precipitation, the building can be tightened from the outside with a film, fixing it with planks.

Two years after the construction, you can start finishing. For many, this will sound ridiculous, but log structures can be sheathed with a block house, clapboard, imitation timber, and dies. To begin with, a crate is mounted on the wall (if it is made of wood, it must be treated with antibacterial impregnations and increase resistance to fire), which is checked for verticality and horizontality using a building level.

Crate for insulation and finishing

Attached to the frame finishing material, which is then varnished or other protective compounds. If metal guides are chosen, they are mounted on special suspensions.

Insulation on the outside of a log bath is almost never used, and inside it is additionally insulated only sometimes a steam room and a washing room. If you decide to play it safe and insulate the building, if the insulation is afraid of moisture, a vapor or hydro barrier is laid on top of it. It is fixed with the help of planks, on which the finish is subsequently attached.

Insulation of a bath from a bar outside

Warming a bath from a bar from the outside is absolutely no different from warming a bath from a log. The building must also settle down, cracks also appear in it, which are sealed in the same way.

Warming of a bath from a bar

The need for insulation from the outside depends on the thickness of the timber. If its thickness is insufficient for your climatic zone, insulation will be carried out according to the following scheme:

• a crate made of timber or metal guides (be sure to set them both in a horizontal and vertical plane);
• heat insulator (thickness depends on the climatic zone, wall thickness, and type of thermal insulation);
• moisture and wind protection;
• counter crate (not necessary, but there should be a gap between the protective film and finishing materials);
• Decoration Materials.

Insulate baths outside

They usually sheathe a bath from a bar outside: clapboard of any type, edged board, siding, metal profile, block house, etc. After completion of the work, the wooden finishes are varnished for outdoor use, sometimes they are pre-treated with coloring pigments, but many modern compositions also have a tinting effect, which, of course, is convenient.

If as finishing siding is used, then the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finish is mandatory. In this case, it is advisable to use special guides as a crate, which can be bought at the same place as siding. The guides are mounted on special suspensions.

Metal guides for siding are mounted on special suspensions

Insulation of a brick bath from the outside

It is imperative to insulate a brick bath from the outside - this material has a high thermal conductivity, so it will be extremely difficult to warm up the room to the required conditions without external insulation. The sequence of insulation is the same: frame, insulation, moisture and wind insulation, ventilation gap, sheathing.

Scheme of insulation of a brick bath

For external insulation, it is usually advised to use mineral wool. According to recent studies, they are not suitable for internal insulation of the bath - they emit formaldehyde, and for external insulation - one of the best options. You can also insulate a brick bath from the outside polystyrene boards, polystyrene foam (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foamed glass (its disadvantage is its high price). For high-quality performance of work, it is advised to put two layers side by side (with an offset of half the length) to reduce heat loss due to overlapping seams. But this method takes more time, and materials for insulation take twice as much. Therefore, most often the insulation is done in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are glued with reinforced tape.

Fabric-reinforced PVC tape

For sheathing a brick bath outside, you can use wooden finishing materials or siding. There is another option for exterior decoration: you can finish the bath outside with plaster. This is possible if polystyrene plates, foam glass or foam plastic were used as a heater. Then a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of this material, a primer is applied, and then the walls are plastered.

Scheme of insulation of a brick bath and finishing with plaster

You can insulate a brick bath according to the type of ventilated facade. In this case, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall (the installation step is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation), between which mats or insulation boards are tightly installed.

The scheme of insulation of a brick bath according to the principle of a ventilated facade

For reliability, they can be strengthened with special dowels, but this is not necessary - the material itself must hold firmly enough (therefore, the mounting step of the guides is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation - it is held due to the force of elasticity). The joints of the plates are glued with reinforced tape, or treated with special glue, laid on top of the waterproofing film, and fixed with planks. Now guides are installed on the brackets, which support the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for mounting the exterior finish. According to this scheme, it is also possible to insulate baths from foam blocks, cinder blocks or aerated concrete.

Finishing the outside of the block bath

To baths from blocks, you can apply any of the insulation schemes described above. In addition, there is another option: to impose such a bath decorative brick, but such an option for finishing and warming is possible if a positive temperature is maintained in the bath all the time.

Exterior finish baths with decorative bricks

If you decide to overlay a bath of blocks with bricks, you can lay out the second wall not close, but stepping back 5-10 centimeters. In this case, the thermal insulation characteristics of the building will improve significantly. The gap can be left empty, or it can be filled with heat-insulating material: expanded clay, sawdust that has undergone special processing, etc.

Aerated concrete bath insulation scheme

In order to prevent moisture from accumulating in the inter-wall space, in outer wall leave small ventilation gaps, and for reliable fixation finishing wall, small pieces of fastening reinforcement are driven into the carrier.

Recently, such a finishing material as a block house, which emits a log wall, has become more and more popular. Block house to be made from different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood.
A block-house sheathed bath looks like it was made of wood.

Block bath lined with a block house

conclusions

A log bath, built in Russian traditions, as a rule, does not need additional wall insulation, either outside or inside.

When choosing an external insulation for a brick or block bath, the choice is very wide. Without prejudice to health, you can use mineral wool made using phenol-formaldehyde resins, which is not recommended for warming the bath inside. Styrofoam and polystyrene foam are also suitable.

If you have financial opportunities, the bath can be sheathed with a metal block house, which will last for many years.