Do-it-yourself antique door. Making antique wooden doors Antique wooden doors with hands

03.09.2016 71960

Sometimes emphasizing old age - original solution unsightly sash problems. So, beautiful without additional expenses. Of course, the effect should be deliberate - slovenliness is out of place in any interior. do-it-yourself wood aging - methods, tools and materials are described below.

Types of artificial aging of wood

The vintage original look of the doors is obtained in several ways. Below, they are listed in order of increasing effort and cost. The operation algorithm is also described. So:

Thermal method or firing. The process will require a blowtorch and a coarse wood aging brush. The intensity of exposure is determined by the master himself - as a result, you can get pronounced natural patterns of wood or barely visible. After firing, the surface of the canvas is sanded with large emery cloth in different places to create the appearance of heterogeneity. The door for this method of aging should be massive, plank. Appropriate fittings - massive steel handles and.

How to do it right:

Cleared from. Use a hair dryer or solvent. The canvas is carefully sanded, the boards are knocked down so that there are no gaps. Not bad before aging with all sorts of protections - flame retardant, moisture-retaining composition. The existing cracks are left - they will give even more flavor. Hinges and handles are removed. The method takes a little time, it is safe with the skills of working with the tool.

Blackening. The effect is achieved by rubbing shoe polish, stain or a strong manganese solution into the cleaned canvas. Pigmentation lingers on annual rings, sections, knots, and thus, it turns out, the effect of the opening darkened from old age is achieved. In addition, the last composition helps to disinfect the canvas if traces of mold or fungus are detected during cleaning.

How to do it right:

Everything ingenious is simple! To get antique doors, the previously cleaned surface with a solvent and a spatula is covered with black ink, and then the shoe polish melted to a liquid state is rubbed with a brush. You need to rub hard. The method has a drawback - removed door leaf it is important to ventilate during the week - the smell is unpleasant.

Traces of bark beetle. They represent paths from the movement of the larva. You can create them on the semi-antique door with your own hands using bent nails. Having spread them on the surface, they are driven in with a hammer, leaving dents over the entire area. It is important to free the rods from the hats in order to create a complete imitation. After work, the canvas is sanded with a fine sandpaper, making sure that the chip dust gets a little into the grooves. Next, varnish.

These antique effects are very easy and fast to get. The style of an apartment or house must be consistent, otherwise the effect is inappropriate.

Work with paint and varnish

You can get aged doors in other ways. They will require more time and labor. In addition, costs will increase due to the purchase of several shades of paint. So:

A popular dry brush method. The canvas is cleaned and covered with a base primer. Until the layer is completely dry, with the end of a dry brush, strokes of a different shade are applied. The combination of colors can be different - contrasting or moving from one shade to another. Now the layers are given time to dry. The finished surface is cleaned with emery skins to further highlight the areas of scuffs. Again, a layer of a helmet of a different color is applied. The final color is pale yellow or white, which is used to cover the door with strokes. Allow to dry again and then sand. The final layer is varnish.
Craquelure. This is done artificial aging tree in several ways:

- lacquer and silver. A layer of varnish is applied to the prepared surface. After 30 minutes, it is dried with a hair dryer, as a result of which cracks appear. They are rubbed with silver paint, allowed to dry completely and the resulting effect is varnished.
- PVA glue. With it, create an antique design. A thick layer of glue on a previously cleaned canvas is not allowed to dry completely. A layer of acrylic paint is applied over it and then dried with a building hair dryer.
- gelatin or egg white is another way to age the paint on the tree. The prepared composition is applied to the painted surface with a wide brush - pre-soaked gelatin or protein. Allow to dry naturally and varnish.
- vinegar 9%. They moisten a fresh painted surface in a horizontal position. Cracks appear immediately.

It is important not to overdo it - the doors should be aged, and not put into disrepair.

Mechanical structuring or brushing. The bottom line is to remove the soft fibers of the wood and expose the structure of the tree. For work, a special milling cutter with several nozzles is used - a wire brush for structure, a soft one - for cleaning and emery skins for polishing.

The door laid on a horizontal surface is cleaned by a chemical or hot method, then the machine is used. You can achieve the effect manually, but it will take more time. First they work with a rough nozzle, then they clean the chips and, finally, they polish. During each stage, various compositions are applied to the canvas - stain, ink, shoe polish, so that the further transformation of the old wood goes on continuously. The final step will be varnishing.

Chemical brushing. Suitable as a wood aging effect that does not require the purchase of a special machine. For work, caustic alkalis, acids, ammonia. The process takes place away from residential premises in well-ventilated places and with the use of personal protective equipment - gloves, goggles, a respirator. It consists of the following:

- The canvas is cleaned and sanded.
- wetted with a large amount of caustic components.
- after softening the soft layers, processed with hard wire brushes and polishing.

Using the above methods, it is not difficult to artificially age a tree. In addition to the interior, wooden fragments of furniture - legs, armrests - are decorated in the same way.

Features of the wood aging process

Various methods of aging the door surface at home require compliance with the steps and nuances. For example:

Cleaning cloths. Occurs with the use of a building hair dryer or solvents. A spatula is convenient to clean off peeling paint. It is important to remove all visible areas, otherwise they will not get the desired effect. In addition, chemical solutions must be suitable for future staining or varnishing - incompatibility will lead to the formation of bubbles and "husks".
The chemical method of wood aging - brushing with caustic solutions, staining, occurs only with soft wood species. Pine, spruce, suitable - oak and larch are only subject to mechanical processing.
The mechanical method is associated with the formation of chips and fine wood dust, so the canvas is periodically moistened with water and debris is swept from the surface with a soft brush. Not by hand - to avoid splinters.
Painting - craquelure, do-it-yourself wood aging with varnish, the dry brush method - should go with thorough mixing of the compositions so that air bubbles do not form on the surface. They, bursting, form ugly pits, and the artificial origin of the canvas becomes clear.

By itself natural wood beautiful and new canvases are unlikely to need decoration by the methods described. Work should only be carried out on used interior doors to give them a second life and save on buying a new set.

The classic interior becomes so thanks to the details, a rather important of which is the door. You can buy already finished antique furniture in the salon, restore the old one or make the existing one old. Truly antique items cost a fortune, but just old ones can lose their functionality. There remains the option of artificial aging.

Peculiarities

A door that looks antique can be made on your own or you can purchase a product stylized antique.

Features of such products:

Such a stylistic decision has no analogues, while modern styles are more typical.
They create a special atmosphere. Antiques are associated with respectability. That's why pseudo-antique things are so popular.
material individuality. If natural wood is used, the uniqueness of its texture is emphasized.
Illusory - create an effect that is not really there.
Symmetry and proportionality are the main features of the classics.
The high cost does not become an obstacle for connoisseurs of taste. In addition, any model can be reduced in price by choosing a different material or by refusing decorative inserts, columns, pilasters.
Accessories should not only fulfill their function, but also be an element of decor.

Kinds

All semi-antique doors can be conditionally divided into:

Input(perform the function of protection against thieves and external influences; they are subject to increased requirements for heat and sound insulation, strength).
Interroom(the main function is to create privacy and separate zones of different purposes). They must be aesthetic and fit into the overall design of the apartment or a separate room.

By type of opening and closing doors can be:

sliding;
folding;
hinged.

Sliding systems are less appropriate in classic interior. But if there is a need to install them (there is furniture next to the opening or the entrance to another room is blocked), you should choose metal profiles in the color of bronze, brass, silver or gold.

folding are also practical in terms of space saving. The narrow canvases that make up such a door can be a great addition to the classic style.

The most acceptable in the classics will look swing doors. They can be left, right or pendulum. If the room is large and the doorways are wide, you can install double door. Since symmetry is important in a classic interior, the doors should be the same in width.

Remember the details - the loops in this case may not be hidden, but overhead. As an independent element of decor, they can also be of a certain shade, with scuffs and even rust imitation.

According to the type of construction, models can be:

framework;
with inserts (panels);
deaf;
glazed;
arched.

As inserts can be: glass, mirrors, stained glass, specially processed wood with metal, plastic and leather lining. Glass can be: standard, frosted, tinted, with drawings. Patterns or picturesque images are used as a drawing.

Depending on how the surface of the door is finished, there are:

canvases covered with plastic, film, enamel or paint;
with a transparent coating (varnishes);
with laminate, natural or artificial veneer finish;
upholstered in textiles, leather and leatherette.

materials

The main ways of processing a door for its aging are:

chemical(with the help of alkaline compounds that act on the soft tissues of the tree);
mechanical(consists in the formation of chips, cracks with the help of special tools);
thermal(using a torch or blowtorch).

Usually aged doors are combined - when the frame is made of one material, and the insert is made of another.

Insert (panel) can be:

flat - that is, smooth, without protrusions;
volumetric - with milling around the perimeter;
type-setting - from several docked lamellas.

It is more practical to use MDF as a panel, as a wood panel can dry out and damage the frame.

The effect of aging on plastic is unattractive, as the material can warp and change color. Metal and MDF have a homogeneous structure. Mechanical methods of material processing cannot be applied to them. But you can use the finish of the film, plastic or veneer.

Wood is the most suitable material option for all of the above processing methods. This is a material with a pronounced structure. Moreover, the structure is emphasized not only by the bulge, but also by the color (growth rings look especially bright against a light background).

Hardwoods - oak, beech, walnut - are durable, but expensive. Soft breeds - birch, pine - are less dense, but more affordable in price.

Historically, craftsmen were the first to manufacture. Subsequently, handicraft production was replaced by mass machine production. Doors from massive and monolithic have become light and multi-component.

Today, for pseudo-old doors, the most practical material is MDF covered with veneer or foil. Used veneer of dark and light oak, mahogany, walnut, wenge, maple, rosewood. The film imitates the texture and pattern of wood, and it can also be colored.

Fashion for retro

Aged doors are classic and, judging by the trends, will always be in demand.

There are several reasons why this happens:

Classic doors are synonymous with wealth. Wealthy people will always strive to emphasize their status. And people who do not have the opportunity to purchase such expensive things and who are the majority will use stylized doors. In addition, there are a lot of such options on the market, different in colors, shape, decor and material. Moreover, the door is the hallmark of an apartment or room, by which you can judge its owner.
Antique doors create a special mood. Office premises, shopping centers, and almost all premises in which a person spends most of his time, are decorated in modern style, high-tech and the like. Therefore, having crossed the threshold of his house, a person wants to relax, feel comfortable.

There are areas that use light pastel shades, and they have a calming effect on the psyche and nervous system person.
Despite the intricate appearance, they are very practical. Hardwood doors are durable, and treated with special impregnations, they can be used in bathrooms and rooms with temperature fluctuations. A wide choice of materials will provide you with pleasure for years to come.
Special processing techniques are available to people without special skills. This is a great opportunity for creativity, the manifestation of their individuality. A handmade thing is especially expensive.

Manufacturers Overview

The most popular (according to reviews and search queries on the Internet) door manufacturers in classical style from solid and MDF are:

Sofia;
"Volkhovets";
"Alexandria Doors";
"Ocean";
"Europan";

Dariano;
matadoor;
"Alvero";
RuLes;
"Dera".

Manufacturers who are confident in the quality of their products have long warranty periods. In addition, they provide delivery and assembly services.

How to grow old with your own hands

There are several ways to make a new or already used door aged:

brushing- removal of soft tissues of the tree. To do this, we evenly draw along the fibers with a special iron brush. The surface is then sanded and varnished. This is the most plausible method.
Patination. First, a dark layer of paint is applied, it should be even. Then light paint is applied and, after drying a little, certain areas are wiped with a rag. Sanded with sandpaper and varnished.
Craquelure. The purpose of this method is to create cracks. First on wooden surface craquelure varnish is applied, then a bitumen-based composition, and then a contrasting acrylic paint. Cracks can also be highlighted with paint, but this must be done very carefully.
With the help of a stain. It is applied with a brush or sponge, lifts the fibers and makes them more embossed. It is applied in several layers, after drying it is rubbed with wax.
With the help of paraffin- initially dark paint is applied, then the necessary areas are rubbed with paraffin and the entire surface is painted with light paint. Paraffin is peeled off, the resulting pattern must be sanded and covered with stain.

The door leaf must first be prepared. To do this, remove the hinges and handles, remove the glass. Using a building hair dryer, remove the paint and sand the surface. Chips are rubbed with putty. The surface is degreased.

Such work does not require special skills. All that is required is the desire to create a unique door.

Beautiful examples in the interior

In its narrow sense, antique doors can mean doors made in one of the directions of the classical style:

Gothic style. A door in this style should be only natural shades, with a large number of glass inserts or iron linings, with forging. This is where the original pointed top comes in. The product should give the impression of strength and solidity. Due to their massiveness, such models are more suitable for exterior doors.
Baroque- characterized by an abundance of silver, copper, bronze and, of course, gilding. Decorated with ornate three-dimensional carving imitating modeling. Slopes can be columns or additional side panels. Cornices, porticos are installed above the door. The main feature of this style is the creation of the illusion of wealth and luxury. It is focused on large "palace" sizes, therefore, the doors are installed in large sizes.

Many people know how to restore old, time-worn doors. But sometimes the style of the interior requires that it be decorated and complemented by antique doors. But where can you get them? And how much can they cost?

You should not even try to answer these questions, it is better to read how you can artificially age existing or just purchased canvases. Of course, we are talking mainly about wooden products. Although some methods of such finishing are suitable for other materials.

In order for the work to go faster and more fun, and the quality not to suffer, before starting work, the doors must be removed from the hinges, all fittings must be dismantled from them and laid horizontally on a flat, solid base.

Then they clean off the old coating. To do this, you can use a building hair dryer and a spatula. The paint softens under the action of hot air, begins to bubble and itself lags behind the base. It is easy to scrape off with a spatula (see).

Then we proceed depending on what final form the product should receive. All existing defects can be repaired with putty to match the wood: chips, dents, cracks. Or you can do the opposite and create with your own hands the very defects that allegedly appeared over many years.

How to do it:

Chips are made with an ax or a heavy knife, after which their edges are polished with sandpaper;
With the help of a thin drill or an awl, the chaotic moves left in the wood by bark beetles are imitated;
A similar effect can be achieved if old bent nails without hats and pieces of wire are scattered over the door leaf and driven into the wood with a hammer, and then removed;
With a thick drill, you can drill through holes and fill them with dark putty, depicting knots that have darkened with time;
To get dents, it is enough to put heavy pieces of iron - bolts or nuts - into a dense linen bag and beat them with force on the surface.

In a word, to break is not to build. Surely you will find other considerations on how to disfigure the surface.

We grind

It is important! If you skip this stage, the paint and varnish compositions will lie down and be absorbed into the wood unevenly, and the surface will turn out to be rough and rough. To achieve perfect smoothness, after the first sanding, the door should be slightly dampened to lift the villi, and then removed with a fine sandpaper.

Now you can proceed to the main stage of aging. Choose.

Staining

Let's start with the simplest way. This is an antique door finish using a special stain staining technique. It should be of two types: water-based and solvent-based.

The work consists of the following stages:

First coloring. For it, a water-based stain is used.

washout. Immediately after staining, without waiting for the layer to dry, we take a wet rag or sponge and wash off the stain. But not entirely. Usually, corners, panels, depressions and cracks are left intact, as well as the edges of the boards if the door is planked. But from their middle, the tint is washed off.

Processing of individual sections. To give the product relief and expressiveness, you can shade the chips, recesses and edges with a darker color using a thin brush.

Advice. If for the sake of a small amount of work you do not want to buy a tool desired color, it can be replaced with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, coffee, tea brewing.

Second coloration. The second continuous layer of stain based on white spirit or other solvent is applied after the final drying of the door.

Consolidation of the result. To preserve the effect, the product must be coated with a colorless varnish or antique wax.

In this way, you can finish both old-style wood, and furniture facades. It is also suitable for products covered with veneer. They will look like faded, but retain the old coating in the recesses and in some places.

Drawing "traces of time"

What happens if a wooden door is used for a long time, but the coating is not updated? That's right - the paint on the protruding parts will be erased. And if you do not use it, a kind of plaque, patina, may form on the surface. These are the changes that can be simulated.

scuffs

It would seem, what is easier: to paint the canvas and to peel off the paint in places with sandpaper? You can do this, but you won't get the desired effect.

It's better to do it differently:

Prepare the door as described above and prime;
After the primer dries, paint the canvas. It is possible not entirely, but only those areas where abrasions are expected;
When the paint dries, rub some areas with paraffin, and then cover the entire canvas with paint of the main color - darker or lighter than the previous one;

Wait for the paint to dry again and remove it with a spatula from those places that were smeared with paraffin.

In this way, furniture is often finished in the Provence style, which is characterized by light natural shades, so pastel colors are chosen for the paint.

But there can be no strict rules, so you are free to use any colors and in any order.

Patination

The creation of a "plaque of antiquity" is carried out by various technological methods. If everything is done correctly, then you need to use a special composition - patina. But she's expensive. At home, you can use the most in a simple way, short instruction which is shown in the table.

Taken as an example door frame. By the way, when aging, do not forget about him, and about the extensions and so on. door frame otherwise the canvas in it will look ridiculous.

We paint the part in the main color with any selected composition. It can be paint on any basis, and stain. The main thing is to apply it evenly, without streaks, streaks and stripes. Let the coating dry well.
On the dried surface, apply a thin layer of patina or liquid paint of a different shade with a brush. It is necessary that it penetrate into all structural and decorative cavities of the product.
As soon as the paint begins to dry, we erase it from the surface. It will be partially removed only from the smooth convex parts, but will remain in the recesses.

Advice. It is very convenient to remove the top layer with a special metallized sponge - scotch brite. It is quite possible to replace it with the back hard side of an ordinary dish sponge.

Creation of cracks

When the doors are old, repeatedly painted, the coating on them often cracks, creating an artistic cobweb. But it is not at all necessary to wait for the appearance of such cracks, they can be made by yourself in just a couple of hours.

The technology for creating cracks is called crackle, and the compositions that contribute to their appearance are called craquelure. As a rule, these are varnishes with special properties. The ingredients included in their composition break the paintwork applied on top of it or the bottom layer.

Different varnishes act differently, they are one- or two-step, so you need to study the instructions before use:

The easiest way using a one-component composition lies in the fact that craquelure is applied to a dried paint coating with a thin layer, and it cracks under the action of active components.
Another method involves applying craquelure between two layers of paints of different colors.. In this case, the upper layer is broken, and the lower layer is visible in the cracks.

Using the crackle method, you can decorate not only wooden, but also iron doors antique. And also combine it with other methods of aging. See examples:

If desired, you can do without special formulations, and get a similar result using other means, most of which can be found in any home:

PVA glue. The glue is applied to the canvas in a thick layer and, not allowing to dry, paint it with acrylic paint. After that, the painted product is dried with a building hair dryer. Under the action of hot air, the paint on the adhesive will crack.

Vinegar. Ordinary table vinegar 9%, if poured onto a freshly painted coating, will also cause it to crack.

Gelatin, egg white. When coating a door leaf with raw protein or brewed gelatin, it will not be the paint that will crack, but the coating itself. Therefore, the effect will be, but not so pronounced.

aluminum powder. It is also called silver. The door is varnished and after 20-30 minutes they begin to dry it with a hairdryer. Too fast drying will lead to the fact that the composition will lose its integrity, the varnish will become covered with cracks. In them, you need to gently rub the powder, and sweep away the excess.

Whatever method you use, the result needs to be fixed. Therefore, after the final drying, the canvas is opened with a colorless varnish.

brushing

Brushing is the structuring of wood, the removal of softer fibers from its upper layer, as a result of which the surface becomes embossed. Doors and other products finished in this way look amazing and look almost indistinguishable from really old ones.

But it is not suitable for all types of wood. Oak, pine, larch, spruce, walnut, ash are considered suitable. But maple, beech, alder, juniper, pear or cherry are not brushed.

There are three ways of brushing: mechanical, chemical and thermal.

mechanical brushing

For it, you will need a hard metal brush or a drill with the same nozzle, a hard brush, a chisel and sandpaper.

The wooden part is laid on a flat, stable surface and fixed. Then, with effort, it is cleaned with a metal brush until the depth of the relief seems sufficient to you. Processing is carried out strictly along the fibers, otherwise transverse scratches will ruin all the beauty.

With the help of a chisel, you can choose deeper grooves in places, make chips along the edges, but this is not necessary.

After brushing, the wood dust is carefully swept out with a regular hard brush. And then the product is covered with a dark stain.

We grind the dried surface using sandpaper No. 60 (for pine) or No. 80 (for oak). The purpose of this treatment is to partially discolor the base, leaving all the grooves and grooves darkened.

We remove the dust and lightly wet the surface so that the remaining small villi rise. And again we grind, but already with a zero to give smoothness.

We apply a finishing decorative coating - oil, varnish or wax to fix the result and increase the practicality of the door.

Generally after machining any of the methods listed above. Patination and staining will look especially impressive.

Chemical brushing

For mechanical brushing, you need to be physically strong and hardy person, as this is a very laborious operation. But the work can be made easier if, before brushing, the wood is treated with chemicals that soften the soft fibers.

These are special preparations based on caustic alkali or acid, but some household products also have a similar effect. For example, liquids and gels for cleaning plumbing. They are applied to the surface without sparing, and left until the wood changes color.

Advice. Chemical brushing should be done outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, using personal protective equipment for the skin and respiratory organs. The price of the issue is your health.

Then the chemicals are washed off with water, and the wood is treated with an acetic solution to neutralize the alkali residues. Then everything is as described above: cleaning with a stiff brush and decorative trim. But the job will be much easier.

The only drawback of the method is the grayed wood. Therefore, it is used only in cases where the door is supposed to be painted with opaque covering paints.

thermal brushing

Loose layers of wood under the influence of open fire burn faster than dense ones. This is also good for us, besides, you can save on stain, as the charred wood takes on a darker shade.

But let's not waste too much words, but simply show how thermal brushing is performed using the example of a small plank.

We burn the surface with a blowtorch, trying to do it evenly, without burning the array too deep. The degree of roasting can be any, you choose it yourself.

Now we take the brush again and clean out the burnt soft layers. We act until a wood structure not affected by fire appears.

We sand the surface, sweep the dust out of the grooves and evaluate the result.

If you do not like the result, turn the part over and continue to work with the brush in the other direction. But always only along the fibers. Then we repeat the steps from the previous paragraph.

If you wish, you can repeat everything from the very beginning - from firing, until you achieve the desired effect.

Advice. It is advisable to treat burnt wood with a flame retardant.

In conclusion, as usual, we open the door with varnish or apply another protective coating. And in order to give your door a finished look, it is advisable to choose the appropriate fittings for it: overhead forged hinges, bronze handles, etc.

Conclusion

We told you about those methods of aging wooden doors that are available to any home craftsman. You can supplement them with painting, carving, forging, if these types of applied art are within your control.

If you want to learn more about this topic or visualize how the transformation occurs new door in the old, watch the video in this article.

In old houses, entrance and interior wooden doors are usually very durable. They are distinguished by high quality factor and reliability, since in their manufacture they used wood from high-quality material (oak, etc.). Many owners are in no hurry to replace such doors with new metal or plastic ones. How to paint an antique door?

If the design of the house is made in the old style and furnished with antique furniture, then the most suitable option coloring his door will serve as painting with the effect of antiquity.

To answer this question, you need to familiarize yourself with the tips and recommendations for carrying out such work. Now it has become fashionable to paint antique doors, especially since new ones have appeared. paints and varnishes and technologies for doing such work on their own have become available. If the design of the apartment is made in the old style and it is furnished with antique furniture, then the most appropriate way to paint the doors is the so-called aging.

This process consists of the following components:

First of all, it is necessary to remove the old paint or varnish to the main surface of the tree with a spatula.

Unscrew the hinges, locks, latches and handles (if any on the doors). This work must be done slowly, otherwise chips may result, the processing of which will take additional time.
The entire surface of the door must be cleaned of dirt and dust. This is done with a sponge dipped in soapy water.
First you need to remove all the old paint or varnish to the main surface of the tree. To do this, the doors are set in a horizontal position (for example, they are placed on two benches) and the old coating is removed using a grinder or skins. If the doors are large, then the work can take a long time, especially if it is done manually. First you need to use a large skin, and then gradually switch to fine emery.
After that, you need to sand the very surface of the wooden door.
If there are depressions or cracks (slits, scratches) on it, then they must be puttied and, after the trimming layer has dried, sanded. For putty, mastics and other similar materials are used, matched to the color of the base layer of wood. The work is done with a rubber or plastic spatula.

You can remove the old layer of paint with special solvents that are applied with a brush.

Can be used to remove old paint and more modern materials, for example, a special gel or liquid that can be bought on the construction market or in stores of a similar profile. These products are applied to the surface of the door with a roller or brush. If used Chemical substance in an aerosol can, then it is sprayed on the surface of the tree for several minutes. If the layer of old paint is thick enough, then this procedure is carried out several times. Exfoliated paint is removed with a spatula.

Some use in such cases a building hair dryer or a blowtorch. But this method cannot be applied if the doors have glass inserts. They must first be removed and only then thermal paint removal should be used. It is better for inexperienced people not to resort to such methods, since when using, for example, a blowtorch, scorch marks may remain on the wood, which will negate all the work. In this case, you will need to follow the safety rules.

Often, after removing the old coating, it turns out that the wood of the door has an uneven color in the form of light and dark places. For alignment colors you can use special bleaches for wooden structures. They are diluted in a ratio of 1:3 in water and applied to the tree with a roller.

After this treatment, the paint is easily removed from the surface of the door. Then it is polished with a fine sandpaper and cracks and depressions are puttied.

Antique door painting technology

This work consists of several stages:

First, to get the desired color, practice on any wooden board, cover it with stain. After the desired color scheme is obtained, you can transfer the process to the door: the entire surface of the object is covered with stain.
For this, a special tampon is made: a piece of cotton wool is wrapped in cotton. When working, stain is added to it so that the liquid cannot leak out. The tree is covered with several layers until the desired color density is obtained. The next layer of stain is applied only after the previous one has dried. If there are glass inserts on the doors, then they must be pasted over with a protective masking tape.
To give the door an old look, it is necessary to artificially make scuffs in its corners, near the keyhole and at the handles. There are two ways to achieve this.
The first method is called brushing. To do this, with the help of metal brushes, the entire surface of the door is treated, thus removing the upper, softer layer. A rougher relief surface remains. Using toning, you can achieve the effect of "patina". With the second method, scuffs can be created using paint of different tones.
Then, with a brush or roller, cover the entire surface of the door with a colorless varnish, in several layers. Sometimes, after this operation, the hairs of the tree remain upright. To remove them, these places are polished with fine sandpaper.
A few more layers of colorless varnish are applied.
Locks, handles and hinges are installed on the door, they are mounted in the proper place.

Necessary materials and tools

Wooden door.
Putty (primer) for wood.
Sander.
Sandpaper (large and small).
Gel or paint remover.
Stain.
Bleach for wood surfaces.
Building hair dryer or blowtorch.
Metal brush.
Masking tape.
Cotton wool and cotton fabric.
Roller or paint brush.
Rubber (plastic) spatula.
Colorless varnish.
Screwdriver.

If you need antiquity on a new door, then all of the above technologies are applicable without changes. Only the pre-preparation process is excluded.

It is possible to do this work independently only if phased implementation all of the above recommendations.

- the task is quite on the shoulder even for a beginner.

One of the ways to give the doors an original appearance, sophistication and status, while not using the services of third-party organizations and various finishing specialists, is to make an antique door with your own hands.

All works, regardless of which area finishing works they relate, begin with the preparation of a plan of activities to be performed in the process of performing work.

The work must be divided into several stages: preparatory, work execution, final, each of which corresponds to certain tasks that need to be solved and a certain algorithm for their implementation.

Preparatory stage

At this stage of the production of works, the door to be processed is removed from the hinges and it is prepared for the aging process. If necessary, dismantled and door frame so that the entire door, the field of aging, looks in the same style.

I would like to immediately draw your attention to the fact that we can only talk about a wooden door made of solid wood or thick edged lumber.

Work begins with the removal of old paint, and in order for it to be removed easily, it must be processed in a special way.

There are several ways, these are:

Heat treatment - the door leaf and the door frame are heated.

Under the influence high temperature the paint bleeds. For these purposes, a building hair dryer is used (when working in an apartment or garage), or a drying chamber or oven - if it is possible to use them.

After heating, old paint removed with a spatula.

Processing with chemicals.

For these purposes, various solvents and chemical reagents are used, upon contact with which, the paint applied to the surface of the door is destroyed.

Fragments of destroyed paint are removed with a spatula and a soft swab moistened with a chemical reagent used to process the door.

Mechanical restoration.

This method involves the removal of old paint by using abrasives (sandpaper) when the removal is done by hand, or grinding wheels and brushes mounted on an electric hand tool(angle grinder - "Bulgarian", drill, screwdriver).

After the old paint is removed, all cracks and chips on the door elements are removed. For this, special mastics and putties are used. The color of the materials used to close the cracks must be of the same tone as the surface of the door.

When puttying is completed, all surfaces are sanded. For this, an electric hand tool is used, as in the case of mechanical processing, with grinding consumables(circles, petals, brushes).

Carrying out work on the aging of the door

There are several ways to give appearance doors old look, these are: brushing, staining, patination, wear and craquelure.

In order to decide how to achieve the desired result, you need to study all of them, and only after that decide which of the methods is most suitable for a particular situation and a particular object of work.

Brushing.

This processing method is performed in the following order:

The surface of the door is processed with a hard metal brush, so that the soft tissues of the tree are removed and the relief structure of the tree appears on the surface.

The depth of the structure must be uniform over the entire surface of the door leaf.

When the structure has manifested, it is necessary to remove the villi and hairiness of the surface, which are formed when the surface is treated with a stiff brush. To remove them, a metal brush equipped with soft wires is used.

All work is carried out exclusively along the fibers of the tree.

After the villi are removed, the surface is polished, for this a soft brush made of polymeric materials is used.
The finished surface is treated with oil, which includes wax.

This method allows you to give the door a natural look of an old product, which cannot be distinguished from a naturally aged structure.

Stain painting.

The most simple and cost-free method, but requiring attention when performing work and patience using it.

Processing is performed in the following sequence:

The prepared surface is covered with an aqueous solution of stain, its excess is removed.
Chips and cracks, which are treated with putty, are separately coated several times, so that their color matches the color of the door leaf and frame.
If necessary, give saturated color, the stain is applied several times.
After drying, the surface is covered with an alkali-based primer and wax, which is rubbed into all elements of the door.

Patination.

This method is based on the use of several colors of different shades.

The work is carried out as follows:

The surface is covered with paint of the main, darker color. For this, a spray gun is used, because. the presence of smudges that form when using a brush or roller will spoil the whole work.
After the applied paint, the main color, has dried, a paint of a different shade, lighter than the main layer, is applied. In this case, a brush is used, and one should also try to avoid smudges. The main task of applying this layer is to draw the structure of the tree (strips are drawn).
When the second layer of paint begins to dry, but does not dry completely, the painted surface must be wiped with a dry rag, so that the originally applied one shows through the second layer in some places.
After the second layer has dried, the painted surface is varnished.

Canvas damage.

This method is also performed using paints.

Work is performed in the following order:

The prepared door surface is painted with dark-colored paint.
After the paint has dried, paraffin wax is applied to different parts of the door, in accordance with personal desires.
A second layer of paint, lighter tones, is applied over the paraffin layer.
When the paint of the second layer dries, the applied paraffin is removed with a spatula.
Surfaces being machined are being polished.
After grinding, the surfaces are treated with a stain.

Craquelure.

This method is characterized by technologies for obtaining cracks of various depths on a painted surface.

The name of the aging method "craquelure" is the name of the material with which the effect of breaking the integrity of the layers of paint applied to the surface is created.

The order of work is as follows:

A layer of base paint is applied to the door elements.
After drying, craquelure is applied to the surface. For this, a spray gun is used.
Under the influence of the applied substance, the paint layer is covered with cracks of various depths, giving the door an old look.

Final stage

After the aging of the door is completed, the door leaf and the door frame are installed in their place. Their performance is checked and the result obtained is evaluated.

Anyone can make semi-antique doors with their own hands, for this the main thing is to have free time and desire, to do this work on their own, and patience and attentiveness will be a guarantee of success.