Insulation of facades of wooden houses. All the nuances of warming an old wooden house, what materials to choose and how to do it yourself. Calculation of the amount of insulation

High-quality home insulation is the key to a comfortable life in the cold season. Therefore, so that the frosts do not bother in winter, it is worth thinking about the choice of material and technology of insulation in advance. This applies to all cases, including insulation wooden house outside. Consider what you should pay attention to when choosing suitable material, as well as how to do everything you need yourself when it comes to a building made of wood.

There are a lot of thermal insulation materials. Some of them are very popular among consumers, while some, on the contrary, are rarely used. Consider which characteristics determine popularity, and which options are used more often than others:

stone wool in slabs - light and comfortable material, which can be transported without any problems and lends itself to cutting even with an ordinary knife. These slabs are laid between the frame elements and then covered with a vapor barrier and waterproofing material from different sides. The main thing is not to squeeze or tamp them during the transportation of mats, as they are easily deformed;

ecowool - a material created on the basis of cellulose, which is pressed and packed. For insulation with its help, you can use two options. In the first case, I take out the cotton wool from the open package, and slightly knead it, tamp it into the walls. It is difficult to say unequivocally how good this method is. Some manufacturers claim that with such insulation, you will not know problems for 10 to 20 years. Although the possibility of shrinkage and deterioration of the thermal insulation properties of the material cannot be completely denied. The second method is called wet, since ecowool is sprayed onto the walls, due to which the material seizes with the frame and the risk of settling is eliminated;
styrofoam is a very common and cheap way insulate the building. Its low cost is due to its fragility, fragility, as well as the need to additionally cover it with a moisture-proof membrane in order to further avoid the accumulation of condensate. It is important that for insulation you need to buy only unpressed foam sheets;
polyurethane foam - a material consisting of two separate components mixed together under the influence high pressure... On contact with air, it behaves in the same way as ordinary polyurethane foam - it expands. Insulating a wooden house with polyurethane foam is quite effective and minimizes heat loss. In addition, it has the property of repelling water;
heaters of natural origin are a variety of mixtures and slabs made on the basis of sawdust, straw, clay, etc. The cost of this method is low, but choosing this option, you need to be ready to tinker. Natural insulation materials that are easy to use include, perhaps, linen fibers.

Other materials used for external insulation of the walls of the house

In addition to traditional materials, there are several more options that, although they have not yet gained such popularity, still often surpass the characteristics already considered.

Basalt slabs for. Price is the only drawback that can be found in this material. Despite the similarity with mineral wool, this material is many times superior to it in terms of technical indicators and characteristics. It provides excellent thermal insulation while being able to withstand heavy loads and temperature changes. Over time, it does not shrink and does not lose its characteristics. So its considerable, in comparison with other materials, cost can be called more than justified.
Penoplex is a material that is rapidly gaining popularity, despite the fact that it has recently appeared on the market. The material is extruded polystyrene foam, characterized by low weight and good moisture resistance. This allows it to be used without laying additional waterproofing layers.
Insulation "Arctic", consists of synthetic fibers, which are fastened together under the influence of hot air. The material is excellent for use in the harshest weather conditions. This insulation is considered breathable and provides good thermoregulation both in winter and summer.

Useful advice! When working with any type of insulation material, personal protective equipment must be used to prevent the ingress of fibers into the respiratory tract and on the skin, as this can cause irritation.

Advantages of external insulation of a wooden house over internal

Choice the right way carrying out work on the insulation of a wooden house - a pledge quality result... Internal insulation of houses is used extremely rarely, since a thick layer of material will significantly reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. In addition, the insulation of walls in a wooden house from the inside will lead to the fact that the outer side of the walls will still be exposed to cold, which will lead to freezing of wood.

Incorrectly performed work and non-observance of insulation technology frame house can lead to the fact that the tree begins to rot from the inside and becomes a favorable environment for the life of fungi and mold. That is why the method is no less important than the choice of a material suitable for this purpose.

But with outdoor insulation, it is also important to ensure that couples are free to go out. Otherwise, the wood will deteriorate and it will be impossible to control the condition of the walls.

Features of the facade insulation technology with mineral wool

When laying the heat-insulating layer, it is necessary to provide the walls with waterproofing. Glassine is excellent for this purpose. Despite its low cost, it does its job perfectly. Initially, you need to cut strips from it and fix them on the frame with a stapler. In this case, the step should not exceed 12 cm.

Glassine sheets are glued with an overlap so that the overlap is about 10 cm. This prevents condensation from entering the thermal insulation material.

Useful advice! If, after the house is insulated, it is planned to be clad with siding, then it is necessary to ensure that there is a free space between it and the insulation (about 30-50 cm). This will prevent moisture from retaining in the frame.

When the glassine is fixed, you can proceed to laying the insulation. Minvata in this case is an excellent option, since it is not prone to fire and is easy to install. The main thing is that the thickness is correctly selected mineral wool for wall insulation. For a temperate climate, this figure should be 80-100 mm, and for regions with severe winters, you can use a material with a thickness of 150 mm.

The technology of thermal insulation of facades with mineral wool provides for the following sequence of work:

it is necessary to measure the distance between the posts;
to the result obtained, add 5 cm to the allowance on each side;
using a sharp knife, we cut off the mineral plates for wall insulation to the desired size and lay them on the wall over the waterproofing;
the joints between the frame and the insulation are additionally closed with cut strips 3-4 cm wide.

A layer of vapor barrier material must be laid on top. Penophenol, which is attached to the frame with a construction stapler, is excellent. After that, it remains only to sheathe the walls with siding or edged boards, depending on your desire, and you can consider the procedure for insulating a wooden house outside with mineral wool completed.

Useful advice! It is necessary to lay penophenol strictly in a horizontal direction, while leaving joints 5 cm so that there is a foil part outside.

Insulation of the facade with extruded polystyrene foam: material features

Expanded polystyrene has an extremely low thermal conductivity, which allows it to be effectively used as a heat-insulating material, used for external wall cladding.

For the first time, extruded polystyrene foam was used in the USA, where it immediately gained popularity due to its characteristics. Its production consists in mixing special compositionconsisting of carbon dioxide and freon with granular polymer. The resulting mixture under the influence of high temperature is fed into a special apparatus called an extruder. Its task is to foam the composition and ensure high-quality mixing of all components.

The mixture obtained in the extruder is formed into plates, which solidify, forming a lightweight and durable heat-insulating material. The advantages of this technology of wall insulation with foam from the outside include the low vapor permeability of the material, as well as durability and resistance to external factors.

According to manufacturers, the service life of this material can reach 50 years if the laying technology has been followed. By its structure, expanded polystyrene is 90% composed of air, which is enclosed in cells.

Expanded polystyrene is always used specifically for external wall insulation, since the material has a considerable volume, and the internal insulation of the premises will lead to significant losses free space... If we take into account the standard thickness of polystyrene foam for wall insulation 80-100 mm or 30-40 mm, laid in two layers, then such a loss of usable space inside the house will be very noticeable.

At the same time, the effectiveness of this method cannot be underestimated, since by using this heat insulator, savings of about 50% on heating costs are achieved. Although one cannot fail to notice the rather high price for the work. Wall insulation with expanded polystyrene outside, taking into account all the necessary finishing works, will cost from 1300 rubles per 1 m².

Useful advice! In order to achieve the desired effect, it is necessary to carry out work at a temperature not lower than 5 ° C and as dry as possible.

DIY facade insulation technology with expanded polystyrene

Like any work related to surface insulation, it all begins with the preparation and cleaning of the wall from dirt and any excess solution. Protruding reinforcement elements and just protrusions, which are not an architectural solution, can interfere. When all the excess is removed, it is necessary to seal all cracks and crevices and prime the surface.

When the preparation is complete, it is necessary to install vertical sags. The easiest way to do this is with nylon cords fixed in increments of 0.5-0.7 m.With their help, you can see if there are holes or bulges on the wall and, if necessary, add more glue. Sometimes it is necessary to slightly change the shape of the plate, using a special grater for this.

Useful advice! In order for the final result to look aesthetically pleasing, check each laid element with a building level.

The technology of facade insulation with penoplex provides that the elements are fastened with a special adhesive mixture. It is prepared according to the instructions that come with it. It is important to use the prepared amount of solution within 1.5 hours if the ambient temperature is not too high. In hot weather, this period is reduced to 40-60 minutes.

The glue is applied to the slab along the edges, as well as in five places in the middle, regardless of what thickness the foam is chosen for wall insulation. This ensures its secure attachment to the wall surface. If you have to fix the thermal insulation material on a perfectly flat surface, then it is best to use a comb trowel to apply the solution.

If you need to lay not one, but two layers of expanded polystyrene, the laying should be done in such a way that the seams do not match. In addition, you will need to seal all the gaps between the slabs using small pieces of the same material or its liquid form. It is not recommended to use polyurethane foam for this purpose. And if there are any discrepancies between the elements in the places where they should touch, then this can be eliminated using the same float.

Finally, the insulation plates are also mechanically fixed in order to eliminate the risk of their delamination from the surface. At the rate of 5-6 fasteners per sheet, fasten them using disc dowels.

Thermal insulation technology of a wooden house with polyurethane foam

Unlike expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and other popular heaters, the technology of spraying polyurethane foam involves a very complex procedure involving the use of expensive equipment. The thing is that in order for the coating to have the desired characteristics and be resistant to external factors, the mixture of the components of the solution must be supplied under the influence of very high pressure.

Related article:

The main materials used for vapor barrier, their pros and cons. Features of installation of vapor barrier inside and outside a wooden house.

However, such conditions are fully justified by the fact that the service life of such a heater is from 30 to 50 years. In addition, having made a choice in favor of this option, you can provide the house not only with the safety of heat, but also with excellent sound insulation, which no other material used for insulation can boast.

Another quality of polyurethane foam is the ability to take any shape, which makes it convenient to apply it to the embossed surfaces of the wall and timber.

True, to do all the work on your own, most likely, will not work, since purchasing expensive equipment is more than justified. It is much more rational to invite specialists for this.

The application of polyurethane foam to the exterior walls of the house is as follows:

at the agreed time, a team of professionals arrives at your home in a minibus, inside of which is everything necessary equipment, as well as the components necessary for the preparation of the mixture;
hoses are drawn to the places where spraying will be carried out, through which the finished mixture is fed;
an even layer of polyurethane foam is applied to the prepared wall surface;
after solidification, all surpluses are removed and cleaned.

Like any other insulation, polyurethane foam lends itself well to finishing. Using a reinforcing mesh, plaster can be applied on top later. And if you prepare the frame in advance, then it is possible to make siding cladding.

Facade insulation technology with foam: material fastening features

Fastening foam elements to the wall is a task that requires attention if the choice is made in favor of this material. It is worth starting work by installing vertical canopies made of cord, which will help you to evenly position the first element.

According to the technology of insulating the house with foam outside, fastening is carried out using special glue, which is applied to the foam element along the edges, as well as at five points inside. This ensures a secure fixation of the element. Thus, the entire insulation is attached. And in order to provide additional strength, you can also use plastic dowels, securing the sheets with them.

The technology of insulating walls outside with foam with their own hands is one of the simplest and most familiar, since this material is often used for various construction work and everyone, one way or another, came across it in everyday life. So the main task is to correctly select the thickness of the foam for insulating the walls outside the wooden house and to securely fix the material.

Obviously, it is impossible to lay the sheets in such a way as to avoid gaps and gaps. Therefore, they must be repaired with. The next step is to plaster the surface and lay the reinforced mesh. This will protect the wall from the destructive influence of external factors. However, one layer will not be enough here, it is necessary to apply at least two layers of ordinary and one decorative plaster to give the building an aesthetic appearance.

How to independently insulate a log house from the outside

Rigid tile materials are best suited for insulating houses from a bar, since they have sufficient density and are not subject to shrinkage over time. It is also important to choose the correct thickness of the heat insulator. So, for example, for walls 20 cm thick, a layer of thin material is enough - 5 cm.And if we are talking about insulating a house from a 150x150 bar outside, then it is better to give preference to an insulating material 10 cm thick.

It is worth starting work with surface treatment with mastic, which repels water. After that, you need to install a wooden frame that will hold the insulation and become the basis for fixing the finishing finishing material.

Useful advice! All elements timber frame it is imperative to treat it with antiseptic agents that prevent rotting and protect the wood from moisture.

Basalt wool, which is attached to the surface of the walls with self-tapping screws, is best suited for insulating a house from a bar. Mounts should be positioned at the rate of 4-6 pieces per 1 m². A diffusion membrane must be laid on top, which acts as a waterproofing agent.

Slats 5 cm thick are nailed to the wooden frame.Their task is to create a ventilation gap that will not allow moisture to accumulate. And already the finishing material is attached to the slats themselves.

The cost of facade insulation with different materials can vary greatly. Much depends on how serious the costs are for the production of one or another insulation. And sometimes you have to take into account the need to purchase additional materials, for example, vapor and waterproofing layers, if necessary.

So, for example, the price for facade insulation using expanded polystyrene will be about 1600-2000 rubles per 1 m². But this is in the event that all the work is done by a professional. If you do everything yourself, you can save a lot, because the cost of the most ordinary sheets does not exceed 30 rubles, although it happens that you need a stronger and thicker material.

Insulation of the foundation slab: is there a need for this

Another way to insulate your home is to use modern materials for finishing the foundation slab, which, like walls, often becomes a source of building freezing and over time can begin to collapse under the influence of external factors.
For many, the need to insulate the foundation slab is also justified by the opportunity to significantly save in the future, spending 1.5-2 times less resources on heating the house.

However, simply purchasing and attaching a heater will not be enough. It is necessary to ensure the full functioning of the system, having thought out a method for removing moisture and preventing the development of fungi, mold, as well as corrosive processes inside. This requires precise engineering calculations that will allow you to move the point outside the outline of the main part of the building.

In addition, one cannot ignore such a phenomenon as heaving of soils, which is characteristic of winter period and can create significant pressure on buried building elements. Therefore, among the tasks that are set before insulation material for the foundation slab, also protection against this kind of mechanical stress.

Restoration and insulation according to Swedish technology: features of the method

Insulation of foundation slabs using Swedish technology is one of the best foreign technologies that became available in our area not so long ago. Let's consider what are the advantages of this method, and what are its main technologies:

the method suggests the creation of a single solid structure, consisting of reinforced cast concrete, equipped with stiffeners. Installation is carried out on a special pillow, which is surrounded on all sides by expanded polystyrene plates;

sand is poured under the bottom of the insulation, as well as on the sides of it;
installation of a special system for collecting and discharging water into the drain is provided;
in order to reduce the load on drainage system, blind area is provided;
inside the house, a floor heating system will be provided, which is built into the foundation even at the stage of its construction.

It is interesting that in Sweden this technology has been used for more than half a century, but in Russia it began to be used no more than 10 years ago. But even during this short period, some of the features of this technology became obvious:

this method is great for building single story and two-story houses... But if we are talking about the construction of tall buildings, then a large number of calculations will be required, as well as permission in all official instances;
even at the design stage, care must be taken to eliminate the risk of flooding the building. For this purpose, a sand bed of the required height is installed. It is possible to determine the required parameters by taking into account those statistics that are considered official for a particular region;

it is necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of the area on which the construction is carried out and, based on the available data, use standard or reinforced drainage and waterproofing systems;
if construction is to be carried out on soils in which sand predominates, then there is no need to install a water drainage system;
as in all other cases when it comes to working with concrete, it is recommended to carry out all work in the warm season, since low temperature significantly increases the risk that the resulting structure will not end up being strong enough;
even if a team of specialists is involved in the work, it takes time to implement this technology. This usually takes 3 to 4 weeks.

Interesting to know! Provided that all the insulation works are carried out in a high-quality manner and there is a “warm floor” system, even if the heating is completely turned off, the heat in the house will be maintained for 72 hours.

Choosing the right material for insulating the foundation slab

When deciding to use Swedish technology, you need to understand that not all materials that we are used to using as insulation are suitable for its implementation. First of all, consider those that are categorically inappropriate for this purpose:

Mineral wool and all kinds of its analogues. Not having sufficient rigidity and strength, they also tend to absorb water, which is unacceptable in such operating conditions.
Expanded clay and other granular materials. Their main problem is the inability to form a dense layer around the foundation, because of this, they allow moisture to pass through.
Foam polymers, the creation of which is carried out directly on construction sites. And although in this case there is no unequivocal prohibition, such a technology requires a lot of experience and complex expensive equipment. Although even the presence of these factors still cannot guarantee success.

Based on the foregoing, it becomes obvious that the ideal option for insulating the foundation of a house from the outside is expanded polystyrene. Its characteristics are fully consistent with all the requirements that apply to the material to solve all the tasks.

Among these properties, the following are worth noting:

the standard dimensions of each slab greatly facilitate the process of laying them, allowing calculations to be made according to the available data, and ensuring high-quality and even joints;
some manufacturers produce slabs equipped with special grooves on the sides, which additionally ensures the tightness of each joint;
the material is very durable and absolutely does not allow moisture to pass through;
high thermal insulation properties allow high-quality insulation without laying many layers of material or one, but too thick. One layer of slabs of standard thickness will be enough.

You can also insulate the blind area with extruded polystyrene foam, which will further reduce the overall heat loss of the building through the foundation and provide additional savings.

Foundation insulation technology with extruded polystyrene foam

The process of warming a foundation slab consists of several stages. Let's consider each of them, paying attention to the nuances of the work, as well as the difficulties that may arise during the installation process.

To carry out this type of work, the use of 10 cm thick foam is considered quite sufficient. The only requirement is that the material must be of high quality and purchased from a well-known manufacturer.

Useful advice! When purchasing any building materials, including expanded polystyrene plates, it is better to request a certificate from the seller for the proposed products. Before making a purchase, you must make sure that the product meets all specified standards.

Site preparation consists in assessing the existing geological features of the site, as well as the type of soil that will have to be worked with. In the process of digging a hole under the foundation, you need to make sure that the bottom is as flat as possible. To do this, at the final stage, it is recommended to dig the hole by hand.

A layer of sand is poured at the bottom of the pit, which is compacted without fail. Then the temporary formwork is installed and the first layer of concrete is poured. At this stage, it is not yet envisaged to use any elements for reinforcement.

After the first layer of concrete has hardened, polyurethane foam plates are laid on top, which are arranged in two layers in a checkerboard pattern. All joints and seams must be sealed to exclude the possibility of moisture getting into them. All this is covered from above with a layer of strong plastic film, laying it with an overlap and carefully gluing the joints with adhesive tape.

It remains only to fill the main part of the foundation, which provides for the mandatory presence of reinforcing elements and is carried out according to standard technology. After the concrete has completely solidified, foam polystyrene plates are attached to all end parts using a special adhesive.

As you can see, the technology of warming the foundation with extruded polystyrene foam is not too complicated, if you familiarize yourself in advance with all the requirements for materials, as well as the order of work.

The fact that external insulation of wooden houses significantly bypasses internal insulation in terms of efficiency has been proven more than once in practice. Although much, of course, depends on the correct selection of heat-insulating material, and on compliance with all technology requirements. Fortunately, modern market rich enough, and is able to offer customers a wide range of materials for thermal insulation of wooden houses.

04.09.2016 0 comments

The popularity of houses made of wood only increases every year. And for good reason. This is due to the ease and speed of construction work, as well as the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. However, the latter fact does not at all exclude the feasibility of insulation, especially in areas with a harsh climate. How to properly insulate wooden house outside and what? The advantages and disadvantages of popular materials, as well as important nuances of doing this kind of work with your own hands, will be revealed further.

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Insulation options

Thermal insulation of a wooden house outside has a lot of advantages:

the dimensions of the interior rooms remain unchanged;
lack of debris and dust indoors;
there is no need to rearrange furniture or perform any internal work;
additional protection of the structure from environmental influences;
for old houses that have lost their attractiveness, insulation is an opportunity to refine and transform the appearance of a building.

Note! Improper performance of work on insulating a wooden house from the outside can lead to mold, damage and decay of the wooden structure. Therefore, only a competent, comprehensive approach to business guarantees a high-quality, desired result.

Despite constant discoveries and developments in the field of construction and building materials technologies, 3 options for insulation materials have confidently established themselves on the market:

Mineral wool.
Styrofoam.
Penoplex or polystyrene.

They all have excellent insulating properties. However, each material has its own characteristics and disadvantages, which are extremely important to consider. A detailed examination of each material will allow you to decide how best to insulate a wooden house.

Mineral wool, features of insulation

Mineral wool is compressed particles artificial stone, basalt and slag. It does not support combustion, which is commendable for a log house, and does not undergo deformation. This material has proven itself in construction and is widely used to insulate the walls of a wooden house.

The pluses of mineral wool can be safely attributed to:

ease of installation;
environmental friendliness of the material, its harmlessness;
guarantees additional protection against the effects of fire;
democracy, affordability in terms of price;
durability;
the structure does not deteriorate, does not change under the influence of temperature drops;
material possesses high temperature melting, therefore, in terms of fire safety, it is better than many.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages, although there are few of them:

the need for additional protective equipment (respirator, gloves) for construction work;
does not protect the surface of the log house from the development of fungus and mold;
it is hygroscopic, easily absorbs moisture, therefore high-quality hydro and vapor barrier are required.

When choosing mineral wool as insulation, consider the following tips:

Before insulation, be sure to treat the walls of the log house with a special antiseptic solution.
Completely exclude the possibility of moisture penetration to the mineral wool. For this, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then a heater and a layer of waterproofing.
It is necessary to mount the material with an approach to half of the previous sheet of material; spaces between the elements are not allowed.
Additionally, you can limit the shift of the mineral wool using anchors.
You can use not only mineral wool, but also its varieties (for example, glass wool).

Styrofoam as insulation

If it is impossible or unwilling to use mineral wool, you can insulate a wooden house with your own hands using polystyrene foam. Outwardly, it is an accumulation of a large number of air, foamed balls of plastic mass. In terms of insulating qualities, polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is in no way inferior to mineral wool.

The advantages of this material include:

simplicity and ease of installation;
lightness of the material;
dense surface that is not exposed to moisture and fungi;
increased soundproofing qualities;
resistance to temperature extremes and precipitation;
significant service life.

The main disadvantage of the building material is unnaturalness and low fire resistance.

Insulating the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam is not at all more complicated than mineral wool. Rather, on the contrary, the sheet of material is easily transferred, adjusted to the required dimensions by cutting. The nuances of working with such an insulator include:

It is necessary to lay the material end-to-end.
A diffusion membrane is used to process the gaps at the joints of the expanded polystyrene sheets. It is attached to the surface with a stapler directly to the light.
The diffusion membrane must be at least 10 cm wide to ensure complete insulation of the foam joints.
Use scotch tape to join the membrane pieces.
Despite the stable ratio of foam to moisture, a waterproofing layer is still necessary.

Note! Many builders are strongly against the use of foam as a heat insulator. Because if the work is not organized correctly, it will accelerate the development of fungus on the walls of the house. To avoid this, be sure to provide a good gap between the wall of the structure and the vapor barrier to ensure sufficient air ventilation.

Penoplex insulation (polystyrene)

Penoplex is a brother of polystyrene. It also has a cellular, honeycomb surface filled with polystyrene beads, but exceeds its predecessor in technical characteristics.

Penoplex allows you to easily insulate a wooden house with your own hands. For this, the heat insulator has a lot of prerequisites:

elevated specifications;
good surface strength;
does not rot and does not absorb moisture;
perfectly retains internal heat;
does not respond to changes in external temperatures;
ease of installation;
environmentally friendly material;
does not burn;
will delight you with a long service life.

The disadvantages of Penoplex are as follows:

The cost of the material exceeds the cost of mineral wool or foam.
The need for quality UV protection sun rays... They destroy the structure of the heat insulator.
Sensitive to solvents and similar substances.
Easily spoiled by rodents.

With regard to the process of insulation, it is identical to the foam.

Note! Required condition foam insulation - the presence of a ventilation space between the vapor barrier and a wooden wall.

Log house insulation technology outside

Now let's look at how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, in stages:

Prepare the surface of the walls at home. To do this, clean them from dirt, and treat them well with a special antiseptic solution or primer.
Seal gaps, holes and cracks in the wall polyurethane foam... When the foam dries, cut off the remains with a sharp knife.
Wet walls are not suitable for insulation. Wait until the surface is completely dry.
To install the vapor barrier layer, use a batten of wooden slats... The spacing between the slats should be 1 m. The lathing should guarantee a ventilation space of 20 mm. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of moisture droplets on the tree with subsequent rotting, damage to the wall surface.
Lay the vapor barrier material. It can be isospan, polyethylene or roofing material. Fasten the vapor barrier to the rails, and seal the attachment points with tape to make the coating tight.
Create a frame for the heat insulator, also using 40 × 100 mm wooden planks. Insulation will be mounted in its grooves. Therefore, to achieve the maximum density of joints, the distance between the strips should be 15 mm less than the sheet width of the material used. Wooden planks are only installed on the edge.
With the help of a building level, keep an eye on the evenness of the crate to avoid the appearance of bumps, gaps and other defects.
Lay the insulation in the resulting grooves, taking into account its individual characteristics.
The next stage of the "pie" is laying a layer of a hydro-windproof membrane. It must be fastened with nails or a construction stapler to a wooden frame. The joints are again treated with tape for tightness.
The final stage is installation decorative finishing on the facade of the house. Use siding, lining, brick or other building materials for this purpose.

Every person dreams of a warm home so that even in the most severe frosts it is comfortable to be in the room. Therefore, the first question that arises before the owners of their home is how you can insulate the walls from the outside yourself. This is especially true for wooden buildings. In this article, we will give instructions according to which the walls of frame and timber houses are insulated from the outside. And for a more visual example, you can watch the video.

There is a huge variety of thermal insulation materials. Let's dwell on the choice of insulation for wooden houses, which are massively used by consumers.

Insulation of a wooden house will help keep wood from decay

Stone wool in slabs. Such material is not difficult to cut even with an ordinary knife. Due to their low weight, the slabs are easy to transport even by a passenger car, especially if you need to insulate a small area. During installation stone wool placed in the gap between the frame posts, and then insulated with a vapor barrier material from the inside and waterproofing material from the outside.

Attention! When transporting or installing, never squeeze or tamp the mats.

Ecowool. It is an environmentally friendly insulation material based on cellulose fibers. Produced in packaging, in a slightly compressed form. There are two ways to insulate with this material:

dry. To do this, the packaging with glass wool is opened, the material is kneaded and tamped into the walls. The disadvantage of this method is that over time, the fibers can shrink, and this will lead to a loss of heat. However, some manufacturers give a guarantee that this material will not settle for 10-20 years.
wet. Ecowool is sprayed onto the walls and adheres to the building frame, so that the material does not settle.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house outside

Styrofoam. One of the most budgetary types of insulation. This material does not absorb moisture, so it is not necessary to cover it with a moisture-proof membrane. However, when working with foam, you need to be very careful, because it can crumble and break.

Attention! As a heater, you need to purchase unpressed foam sheets.

Polyurethane foam... It is sold as a two-component substance that begins to foam when applied to walls when exposed to air. In operation, this material is similar to polyurethane foam. They fill the voids in the wall, and cut off the excess. The result is a monolithic insulation layer, which completely eliminates heat loss. Polyurethane foam has moisture-repellent properties.

Warming a house from a bar with polyurethane foam

Natural heaters. These include slabs made of sawdust or a mixture of clay and straw. Such materials are environmentally friendly, inexpensive, but their main disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. Linen fiber is also a natural insulation. It has antiseptic properties, preventing the formation of mildew and mold. It is easy to cut, install, allergy-free and moisture resistant.

As a way to insulate walls, it is better to choose

Pledge quality repair - a well thought out work plan. Therefore, it is worth considering in advance how you will insulate the walls: from the inside or outside. Internal insulation is rarely used, because because of it, the size of the rooms is significantly reduced. In addition, experts do not recommend insulating wooden houses in this way, because moisture will penetrate into the wood, from the street side. Because of this, mold and mildew may appear inside the structure, and the tree itself will begin to rot. In addition, you need to buy a material that will match the properties of wood. For this, flax fiber is suitable, soft look Fiberboard, basalt and fiberglass materials.

Thermal insulation of a house with mineral wool

With the external method of thermal insulation, a uniform insulator layer is formed for the free release of vapors. Insulation is less dense than wood, because of this, steam escapes through the ventilation gap. The external method of thermal insulation is ideal for those who want to insulate old houses from a bar, which have lost their "presentation" over time, after sheathing they will look like new. However, if the walls are insulated incorrectly, the wood will start to deteriorate, and under the layer of external finishing, you will not be able to control the condition of the wood.

Thermal insulation of walls of a frame house with mineral wool

Thermal insulation of a frame house begins with waterproofing. To do this, you can use glassine - a cheap but effective material. It is cut into strips and stapled to the frame of the house, in increments of no more than 12 cm. The sheets of glassine are glued with an overlap of up to 10 cm to protect the insulation from condensation.

Advice! If the frame of the house will be sheathed with siding, then a distance of 30-50 mm should remain between it and the insulated facade so that moisture does not linger in the frame.

Then we lay a layer of insulation. Mineral wool is an excellent option for wall insulation. It does not cause allergic reactions, has low flammability and high thermal conductivity, such plates are easily cut using construction knife... The laying process is simple, first we measure the distances between the posts and add 5 cm on each side for allowances. We cut out the sheets of the required size and put them on the waterproofer. We close the joints between the frame and the insulation with a strip of mineral wool 3-4 cm wide.

Mineral wool

We put a layer of vapor barrier on top, for this we use foam phenol. It needs to be shot to the frame of the building with a construction stapler. Penophenol is laid in a horizontal direction, leaving the joints 5 cm with the foil part outward. After that, we sheathe the walls of the house with edged boards or siding.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house with polystyrene foam

In order to fix the foam on the wall, first we install vertical canopies from the cord. Then glue is applied to the foam sheets, along the edges and at five points inside, and fixed on the wall. Thus, all the insulation is laid. Next, you need to seal the cracks with polyurethane foam. For additional strength, we fix the sheets with plastic dowels.

Attention! Polyfoam does not absorb moisture, so additional insulation is not needed in this case.

The outside of the walls must be plastered, and before that you need to mount a reinforced mesh. The putty will help protect the structure from the influence of external factors, but it should be applied in two layers. After the surface has dried, a finishing coat can be applied decorative plaster.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house with polystyrene foam

Insulation of the walls of the house from a bar

External insulation of houses from a bar must be made with slab materials, they are more rigid and do not shrink over time. If you prefer basalt or fiberglass insulation, then you need to choose the right thickness. If the house is made of 15 cm of timber, then the thickness of the heat insulator is 10 cm, and if the timber is 20 cm, then you can take a thinner material - 5 cm.

To begin with, the surface of the house is coated with waterproof mastic. Then a vertical wooden frame is installed, which must be smeared with an antiseptic to prevent rotting. Then, basalt wool is attached to it using self-tapping screws or umbrella dowels, 4-6 fasteners per 1 square meter of insulation. A diffusion membrane is laid on top as a waterproofing agent. On top of the wooden frame, we nail slats, 5 cm thick, which will create a ventilation gap to drain moisture. Then we nail the profiles to the slats and install the siding, starting from the bottom, checking the horizontal laying with a level.

Scheme: house insulation

Thus, the choice of insulation depends on your personal preference. And deciding whether to do internal or external thermal insulation depends on how it will be performed finishing external walls. Well, if you want that even the most severe frosts do not bring you inconvenience, you can insulate the walls both inside and outside.

Warming a house with mineral wool: video

Wooden buildings retain heat much better than concrete or brick buildings. But they also need additional insulation... Everyone knows that wooden buildings eventually give shrinkage... At the corners and at the seams of houses, cracks and cracks form, through which cold comes into the house from the street.

To prevent this all, it is necessary to insulate the outside, how and how to do it - read below. It is also worth noting that proper thermal insulation will help home owners save on heating... But in order to maintain the desired indoor climate and extend the life of the tree, it is necessary to choose the right materials for insulation.

By choosing insulation for walls, keep in mind that any tree absorbs moisture well. Therefore, it must be processed with different impregnations... In order for the room to have a favorable microclimate, it is necessary to take care of good ventilation in the room.

If the air exchange in the room is disrupted, this will lead to the swelling of the tree and the formation of fungi and mold on it. To prevent the above problems, you must:

Insulate only dry walls.
Choose vapor-permeable thermal insulation materials.
Make and waterproof the walls.
Leave an air gap between the insulation and the finish.

Before you start insulation, prepare well all work surfaces... They should be free of mold and dirt. If they need repairs, do them well in advance. And check that there are no harmful insects on the tree.

Attention: if in the future you plan to paint wood, then the sealant and paint must be vapor permeable.

Also, before insulating a house, you must carefully read wall composition.

Keep in mind that the technology of insulating a house made of wood provides for the presence of:

vapor barrier;
insulation;
waterproofing;
outer cladding (read :).

It is the hydro and vapor barrier that will protect the tree from excess moisture.

How to insulate a wooden house?

An unusually large assortment of heaters is provided on the modern construction market. But keep in mind, not all of them are vapor permeable... As a rule, for wooden buildings they use:

extruded;
polyurethane foam.

You can choose yourself, what kind of insulation it is better to insulate a wooden house from the outside by reading the characteristics of each of them below.

How to properly insulate with mineral wool

Mineral wool is an excellent choice. If you opted for this material, then you will not need to apply special skills and abilities. Since the whole workflow will be pretty easy and straightforward.

To do quality work, you only need to stock up on free time, the necessary tools and consumable... Before work, carefully prepare the surface and correctly calculate the required amount consumable material.

note

Wooden houses shrink. Therefore, they need to be insulated only a few years after construction.

Considering specifications mineral wool is worth highlighting:

incombustibility of the material;
no deformation;
ease of installation;
harmlessness and environmental friendliness;
affordable cost;
long service life.

If you have chosen mineral wool for insulating your home, please note that this material:

requires additional protective equipment during work (respirator, gloves, glasses);
absorbs moisture, so you first need to make high-quality hydro and vapor barrier;
will not protect the tree from mold and mildew. Therefore, the walls will have to be additionally treated with special antiseptics.

When choosing mineral wool, it must be borne in mind that it happens:

Basalt.
Glass.
Shlakova.

Each individual option has its own characteristics. Basalt cotton wool has a high degree of rigidity. This material is produced in slabs, it is easy to cut with any tools and it is pleasant to work with it.

Concerning glass cotton wool, it is available in rolls. It is not always convenient to work with it, since glass fibers are highly irritating to the skin.

Slag cotton wool is the most inexpensive. If you opt for this particular material, carefully consider the choice of the manufacturer. Since unscrupulous companies can use raw materials that are harmful to people in the manufacture of their products.

Benefits of Styrofoam

You can also insulate your house with foam. This material also has many advantages. The main ones include:

ease and simplicity in work;
low material weight;
excellent heat and sound insulation qualities;
resistance to negative factors;
long service life.

The foam will not form on the surface no mold or mildew... It is fireproof, harmless and copes well with sudden changes in temperature and high humidity.

Important: this material is stacked joint to joint. Provide good ventilation in your home to prevent mold from growing on the walls.

Extruded polystyrene foam and its positive qualities

Expanded polystyrene is also in great demand and popularity when insulating houses. This material is:

durable and reliable;
durable;
easy to work with;
environmentally friendly;
affordable in the price plan.

Continuing to list the positive aspects of extruded polystyrene foam, it is worth highlighting such technical qualities as: combustion resistance, excellent heat and sound insulation qualities, high technical characteristics. Also, expanded polystyrene is resistant to mechanical damage and heavy loads.

note

Expanded polystyrene must be protected from UV rays. It can also be spoiled by rodents.

But the main hallmark material is his moisture resistance... Thanks to this, when insulating, you can not even do steam and waterproofing.

How to insulate with polyurethane foam?

Polyurethane foam also has a wide range of applications for external insulation of buildings. This material has such advantages, as:

low thermal conductivity;
light weight;
high thermal insulation qualities;
resistance to mechanical deformation and heavy loads;
resistance to the appearance of fungi and mold;
durability;
environmental friendliness.

This material is completely non-toxic and does not harm human health in any way. It does not burn under any circumstances and is universal. It is used not only for wall insulation, but also for attics and other similar premises.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

For effective insulation a wooden house must be correctly calculated heat insulator thickness.

Otherwise, incorrectly selected material thickness will lead to condensation and dampness appearing on the walls of the building.

A too large value of the heat insulator will lead to a violation of the air circulation inside the room. Each manufacturer indicates necessary information for the consumer on its packaging.

note: the lower the thermal resistance of the wall, the larger the thermal insulation layer should be.

The main methods of insulating a wooden house outside

Well Technology

This technology can be called the most effective, but rather time consuming and costly in terms of money... It is most often used for brick buildings. This method consists in the fact that the heat insulator is attached to the facade by any in a convenient way, and a wall is attached to it.

This technique is used in places with harsh climatic conditionswhere the air temperature drops below 50 degrees. Recently, this method has been used quite rarely, but it can also be used to insulate a wooden house.

Wet technology with gluing

This technology is most suitable for houses built from rounded logs and beams... For this it is necessary to use external plaster in several layers.

This method is carried out in such sequences:

We carry out preparatory work.
We fix the insulation.
We apply an adhesive mixture to the heat insulator and attach a reinforcing mesh.
Plaster the surface several times.
Apply a finishing decorative layer.

TO advantages such a method is worth attributing.

Correctly performed insulation of a wooden house can significantly save on heating, improve the microclimate in the house, and also extend the service life of the log house. When the question arises about the thermal insulation of the walls of a wooden house, the first and most important point is the choice of a method of insulation - from the inside or outside. Most home owners choose outdoor insulation, and this choice is absolutely correct - outdoor insulation of a wooden house is more effective.

When internal insulation not only the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe premises decreases, but also the dew point shifts inside the frame. Only the inner space turns out to be insulated, the log house itself constantly experiences changes in humidity and temperature, freezes in winter and rots in summer. The greatest destruction of the log house in this case occurs from the inside, closed with insulation.

External insulation protects from freezing not only the room, but also the frame itself. The dew point is shifted to the outside, and condensation occurs outside wooden structures, under a ventilated façade where moisture dries quickly.

Materials for insulating a wooden house

Mats made of stone or mineral wool are most in demand as insulation for wooden houses. It is not recommended to use polyfoam for insulating wooden structures, since it does not have vapor permeability and does not remove moisture vapor from the surface of the log house. Stone wool or mineral wool mats are different thicknesses and density. The denser the insulation, the easier it is to install and the longer it retains its performance. Soft and loose mats often slide down and disintegrate, forming dust harmful to health. Therefore, you should not save on high-quality insulation. Other advantages of stone or mineral wool include its incombustibility and unpopularity with rodents, in contrast to foam.

In addition to insulation, two layers of film are needed: one is waterproof and protects the frame from moisture penetration. He is laid on a protected wooden surface... This film must be vapor-permeable and remove moisture from the log house through the insulation to the outside environment. The second is wind and water protection, it is attached over the thermal insulation. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture entering from the external environment. Waterproofing of mineral insulation is required, since when wetted, it loses its thermal insulation properties.

From the outside, the insulation is closed with any facing material with the obligatory arrangement of a ventilation gap. This cladding is called a ventilated facade. Thanks to the air circulation between the cladding and the walls, the formation of fungus and mold is excluded, moisture is successfully removed from the insulation and all conditions are created for a long service of the log house and the entire building.

Thermal insulation technology of a wooden house outside

The walls of a log or log house are treated with an antiseptic in two layers, paying special attention to the lower crown and corners. The ends of the logs are impregnated with an antiseptic especially carefully, since they are most susceptible to decay. Processing is best done in warm, dry weather. After processing, the walls are dried for 1-2 days.
A waterproofing film with a vapor-permeable coating is fixed to the walls with staples and a stapler. Such a film has different coverage sides: glossy should face the insulation, and porous, capable of absorbing and removing moisture from the log house - to the wall. The film joints are overlapped and glued with a special assembly tape. A vertical lathing from a bar is attached to the film, the thickness of the bar must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. The step of the lathing is chosen 3-5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Stowed at the edge, they will hold perfectly without additional attachment.
Heat-insulating mats are laid on the film between the bars, slightly pressing them. If necessary, the mats are cut with an ordinary knife. If the mats are not firm enough and do not hold well inside the frame, you can make temporary filing by securing them with slats. Finally, the mats are fixed with anchor nails. If it is necessary to lay several layers of thermal insulation, the next layer of mats is placed with an offset of the seams so that the upper mats overlap the joints of the lower ones. All work on laying mineral wool mats must be carried out with protective gloves and a respirator.
On top of the insulation, a hydro-windproof membrane film is attached to the brackets. The waterproofing surface must face the outside. The joints are overlapped and glued with tape.
Installation of a waterproof membrane film over the insulation using a stapler
On top of the film, a ventilated frame is required. It is also made of bars, providing a distance between the layer of insulation, covered with wind protection, and the decorative facade of at least 5 cm.The bars are attached to the lower frame with self-tapping screws, and if the walls are not even enough, then perforated suspensions for the profile are used, allowing you to adjust the distance to the frame. For cladding with metal siding or corrugated board, you can use a drywall profile instead of a bar.
The cladding is fixed according to the technology recommended by the manufacturer. For cladding, you can use vinyl siding, metal profile, block house or imitation timber. When cladding, make sure that there are no gaps through which moisture can penetrate into the facade.

An additional measure to protect a wooden house is insulation of the foundation and basement. It can be produced using or, as well as by spraying polyurethane foam. A ventilated facade or decorative stone or brick cladding is also mounted on top of the insulation layer.