How to insulate walls in a private house. How to properly insulate a private house. Installation of vapor barrier and waterproofing

The most important thing is the weather in the house - these words from the song better than any others reflect the most important characteristic of any home. Really, good house- This warm house Therefore, the main task to be solved during the construction of a house is high-quality insulation.

It should be understood that the insulation of a house at the construction stage and the insulation of an already built house are completely different tasks.

The first is solved either by erecting walls from energy-efficient building materials- wood, foam concrete, etc., or, for example, during construction frame houses filling the cavities inside the frame walls with energy-efficient heat-insulating materials. As a result, the house being built initially turns out to be quite warm.

In the second case, if mistakes were made during construction or there was a need to rebuild a house that was not originally intended for living in winter time, all work on additional insulation is carried out only outside.

Objects of insulation

What needs to be insulated so that the “weather in the house” is good at any time of the year:

• basement - needs insulation if a warm basement is needed;
• the floor of the first floor - it makes sense to always insulate, even if there is a warm basement under it;
• walls are the most important object of heat loss;
• interfloor ceilings - if the next floor is not heated (for example, this is an attic), then it is necessary to insulate. If the next floor is heated, then it is recommended that there is no temperature imbalance on different floors. The fact is that warm air always rises and, in the absence of thermal insulation between floors, gets to the next floor. As a result - the heat on the upper floors;
• roof - do not forget about the warm air that tends to rise and eventually reaches the roof. This air, above all, is saturated with water vapor, which will condense in the cold, in the absence of thermal insulation, inner surface roofs. In winter, when the difference between the indoor air temperature and the temperature of the roof surface is maximum, this will be especially noticeable. The result will be water dripping from above, freezing in case of insufficient thermal insulation of the ceiling, and a number of other very unpleasant moments.

Thermal insulation materials

A huge number of various materials are used to warm the house. It makes no sense to describe them all, we list the most popular today:

• Styrofoam;
• minplate;
• foamed polyethylene (thermal insulation);
• MDVP panels;
• bulk heat-insulating materials (expanded clay, etc.);
• ultrathin heat-insulating materials (heat-insulating paints, plasters).

Let's take a closer look at each

Styrofoam- Expanded polystyrene foam. It happens: ordinary - rather loose, fragile and combustible, or extruded - much more dense, durable, with improved thermal insulation characteristics - 100 mm are similar to 2000 mm brickwork- it is he who will be meant when mentioning polystyrene. Installation is quite simple - the plates are easily cut to size with a knife. The side edges are equipped with a lock-quarter, for better adhesion between the sheets. When foaming the seams, a monolithic, without cold bridges, waterproof surface is obtained. If it is necessary to fix the sheets on some surface, either mounting foam, or a suitable mounting adhesive, or special dowels are used. Since the foam is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation, after installation it requires its own protection - it can be any opaque surface or painting.

Minplita- is a cotton-like material made of glass or stone fibers. It is produced in the form of plates or rolls. Good thermal insulation - 150 mm are similar to 2000 mm brickwork. Installation is carried out, as a rule, in at least two layers (the thickness of the min-plate is most often 50 mm) with a spacing of seams. The rolled material is simply rolled out over the surface. The excess is easily trimmed with a knife. When working with a miniplate, it is necessary to use individual protective equipment: gloves, respirators. The material is absolutely non-combustible and does not emit any harmful substances and therefore considered environmentally friendly. However, there is a possibility of formation of stone or glass dust, which must be taken into account during construction. It is afraid of water, when wet it loses its thermal insulation properties.

Mounting foam- for domestic purposes, foam in cylinders is most often used. Suitable for local insulation works - filling small cavities, cracks, insulation of door and window openings. Works on the insulation of large surfaces are carried out using special equipment. It has the same thermal conductivity as polystyrene and is also afraid of ultraviolet radiation and requires additional protection. Not afraid of water.

Teploizol- is a polyethylene foam. With a small thickness, it is produced in rolls, and with a significant one - in the form of mats. On the one hand, it can have a heat-reflecting foil layer. In this case, it is called foil thermal insulation. A good heat insulator - 100 mm are similar to 2000 mm brickwork. Installation of rolled thermal insulation is carried out using a construction stapler with an overlap. For the installation of mats, a special transparent assembly adhesive is used. The seams are glued to them. Teploizol is not afraid of water and is very durable.

MDVP boards- microporous panels wood fiber. Strong enough with good thermal insulation properties - 200 mm are similar to 2000 mm brickwork. When mounted, they form a flat solid surface. They are fastened in the same way as any sheet wood-based materials (chipboard, plywood, etc.). Environmentally friendly material.

Bulk thermal insulation materials- granules, as a rule, foamed material. The most famous are foam balls and expanded clay. The thermal conductivity of expanded clay is worse than that of foam balls - 100 mm are similar to 500 mm brickwork. Installation is carried out by pouring into existing cavities.

Ultra-thin thermal insulation- the youngest material. As a rule, it is a base - paint or plaster filled with ceramic microgranules with a vacuum inside. It is applied in the same way as the base, that is, with a brush or spatula. With a minimum thickness (paint 3 mm, plaster 10-20 mm) they have thermal insulation properties comparable to 2000 mm brickwork.

Installation of thermal insulation

basement insulation

If you are planning to make a warm or at least non-freezing basement, and the thickness of the basement walls is insufficient to provide the necessary insulation, then additional thermal insulation is necessary. The most obvious, but not right decision there will be insulation from the inside. In this case, it may be possible to achieve a positive temperature in the basement, but the external plinth wall as it froze, so it will freeze. To prevent this from happening, the insulation of the basement must be carried out only from the outside.

If the base is not finished with anything, then the insulation is made with foam, mounting foam or ultra-thin thermal insulation. If it is planned to finish with materials that require the installation of an additional crate, for example basement siding, then it can be insulated with thermal insulation. The crate in this case is mounted on top of the finished layer of thermal insulation. It is allowed to use a mineral plate, but do not forget that it is very hydrophobic, and the basement is a part of the house that is exposed to increased moisture. Therefore, when using a mineral plate, it is necessary to take care of a reinforced layer of waterproofing.

If the base is already finished, then in this case the finish will have to be dismantled, or the insulation should be made on top. The work is both time-consuming and costly, especially since the fine finish after that will have to be done again. It remains either to insulate from the inside - which, as they said, is very bad, or to forget about the warm basement. You can partially solve the problem by painting the finished plinth with heat-insulating paint. Appearance in this case, of course, it will be damaged, but not as much as when using other heat-insulating materials.

Floor insulation on the first floor

Work on the insulation of the floor of the first floor practically does not depend on the type of floors. They can be wood or concrete. Consider both options, taking into account whether the floor was thermally insulated, but additional is required, or not.

Let's start with a description necessary work where there was no insulation.

If the floors are concrete, then in this case they are used as a base on which a heat-insulating layer is laid. Sequence of work:

1. Installing lags.
2. We produce thermal insulation. Materials used for insulation:
   • polystyrene - fits across the entire width between the lags. All seams are foamed;
   • minplate - mats are cut to a size slightly larger than the distance between the lags. When laying, they are slightly wrinkled. As a result, after installation, the minplate, taking on its actual dimensions, reliably covers possible cold bridges between its edge and the log;
   • bulk thermal insulation - simply poured into the inter-lag space with the necessary layer.
3. Laying a clean floor.

If the floors are wooden, then the materials used are the same, but the work is slightly different:

1. We stretch the lag from below the waterproofing film (roofing material or a special membrane).
2. We hem the draft floor from below (if bulk material is subsequently used, then with a solid shield, if any other, then it is possible with an interval of up to 100 mm between the boards).
3. We produce thermal insulation.
4. We lay the vapor barrier film.
5. Laying a clean floor.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer in any case must be at least 100 mm.

If additional floor insulation is necessary, then all additional insulation work is carried out from below, that is, from the basement side. Materials used for this:

• polystyrene - is attached to the adhesive for external thermal insulation or mounting foam (it is necessary, until the glue has seized, to fix the sheets with self-tapping screws with large caps);
• foam - industrially sprayed from below onto the subfloor;
• MDVP plates - fastened with any suitable fasteners;
• thermal insulation - in the case of wooden floors - is shot with a construction stapler, in the case of concrete - on a pre-mounted wooden crate stapler, or glue directly to the concrete surface.

Wall insulation

Let's consider two options:

• primary wall insulation - is carried out during the construction of frame houses and houses with a layer of effective heat insulator provided for by the project (for example, brick-thermal insulation-brick);
• additional insulation - produced with insufficient thermal insulation of the finished house.

In the first case, you need to know two things:

1. For houses intended for living at any time of the year, the thickness of the required layer of energy-efficient thermal insulation must be at least 150 mm.
2. Combining different materials gives a better effect than using one.

House insulation work is divided into stages similar to floor insulation work, namely:

Installation of a waterproofing film - here, it is still better to use a special "breathing" membrane - the very first layer.

Installation of thermal insulation - materials:

• polystyrene - all seams are foamed, if used as the first layer, then waterproofing is not required;
• minplate - as already mentioned, it is laid in at least two layers with a run. Particular attention should be paid to fixing the material on a vertical surface. To do this, you can either use special fasteners (sold in hardware stores), or mount a fixing crate;
• polyurethane foam - the entire space intended for thermal insulation is filled. Works are carried out with the help of special equipment.

Installation of vapor barrier film. The importance of wall insulation cannot be underestimated. The fact is that in the process of human life, a huge amount of water vapor is released. It, together with the exhaled air, creates an increased pressure inside the room. In winter, when all the windows are closed, the excess air has nowhere to go, and it begins to escape through the pores and micro-slits of the walls, floor and ceiling. The outer surface of the walls has a negative temperature, and the inner surface has a positive one. It is clear that somewhere inside the wall the temperature, moving from plus to minus, becomes equal to 0 °C. This point is called the freezing point. Water vapor, penetrating through the wall, condenses in the cold zone - the dew point and freezes at the freezing point. From this, the characteristics of the heat-insulating layer deteriorate significantly. The result is a shift in the dew point and freezing point inward. The process of moisture condensation continues, but closer to the inner surface of the wall, which leads to a further shift of both points inward. In the end, the wall may freeze through. To avoid this, a vapor barrier film is used. It does not let moisture into the walls, while remaining breathable.

Clean finishing of the room. It is recommended to leave a gap between the material used for this (for example, drywall or lining) and the vapor barrier layer.

An example of combined wall insulation of a frame house:

• the first layer - foam 50mm - waterproof material, does not require waterproofing;
• the second layer is a 100 mm minplate;
• vapor barrier;
• finishing.

Additional insulation of the house is always done from the outside - remember the freezing point, insulation from the inside will move it inside the house, insulation from the outside will move it to the outer surface of the walls. Applicable materials:

• Styrofoam - glued to the surface of the wall. Does not require waterproofing. Plastered for painting, or closed with any siding;
• miniplate - a rigid or semi-rigid plate is used. Mounted to the wall with special dowels. A waterproofing film is stretched over the top. Following are two options:
  • installation of a suspended ventilated facade
  • plaster with subsequent finishing
• foam - sprayed onto the wall with a layer of the required thickness. It is closed either with siding, or, after leveling, plastered and painted.
• thermal insulation - mounted by any accessible way- using a stapler or glue. Does not require waterproofing. Closes with any siding;
• MDVP plates - mounted on the crate with self-tapping screws. Outside covered with waterproofing film. Suitable for any type of exterior finish;
• ultra-thin thermal insulation - applicable on any surface. Since, being a heat insulator, at the same time it retains all the properties of its base (paint or plaster), it is applied and finished in ways appropriate to the base.

Insulation of interfloor ceilings

As mentioned above, this is a necessary stage in the complex warming of the house. In addition, do not forget that almost any thermal insulation is still a good sound insulator, which is quite important for floors between residential floors.

In fact, the insulation of interfloor ceilings is carried out in exactly the same way as the insulation of the floor. It should be noted that in the case of wooden floors the draft floor of the next floor is the ceiling of the previous one. By mounting the MDVP boards on the logs from below, you can reduce the costs of subsequent fine finish ceiling and floor insulation.

Roof insulation

Before carrying out roof insulation work, it is necessary to ensure high-quality waterproofing. Any leakage will negate the positive effect of thermal insulation. The work that needs to be carried out for waterproofing depends on whether you are building a house or will be insulating an already built one.

In a new building, roof waterproofing is carried out at the installation stage. roofing material. As a rule, a waterproofing layer is provided for this between the roofing material and the base (rafters with battens). As such a layer, special films or roofing material can be used. In this case, it is necessary to leave a gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material.

What can be done if waterproofing was not provided during the installation of the roof. There are two options here:

1. Thermal insulation has not yet been done - that is, the reverse side of the roofing material is visible from the inside through the crate. It does not make sense to mount the film below the rafters, since the thermal insulation layer mounted below the film will significantly “eat up” the usable volume of the room. Waterproofing must be done in the space between the rafters. To do this, the waterproofing film is stretched between the rafters, as shown in the photo: as a waterproofing, you can fix a rolled thermal insulation that does not allow water to pass through. At the same time, it will also be the first layer of thermal insulation. It is also possible to make a hydro-thermal insulating layer from polystyrene. The sheets are cut to a width equal to the distance between the rafters, and then fixed in the inter-rafter space with mounting foam (all seams must be foamed).
2. Thermal insulation has already been done - in this case, waterproofing will not work, because, as mentioned above, it is done between the roof and thermal insulation. It remains only to monitor the integrity of the roof and, in case of leakage, immediately take measures to repair it. For sealing leaking areas, mastic for roof repair and waterproofing is very well suited.

So, the roof does not leak, it remains to insulate it.

During primary insulation, the installation of thermal insulation is carried out in the space between the rafters. For this, foam, minplate, thermal insulation or foam are used. Installation is carried out in the same way as with wall insulation. After reaching the required thickness of the heat-insulating layer, the finishing of the room is carried out. If you use MDVP panels for this, then you can make the thermal insulation layer between the rafters thinner.

If roof insulation work was carried out using hydrophobic materials, then the final step before finishing will be the installation of a vapor barrier film.

When additionally insulating the roof, all work is carried out according to the finished finish. The most "sparing" options, that is, requiring a minimum of effort, will be insulation with ultra-thin thermal insulation (painting) or installation of MDVP panels. Both of these options will require a minimum of effort for subsequent fine finishing.

If you use other materials - polystyrene foam, mineral plate, foam or thermal insulation, then, after installation, you will have to re-carry out all the fine finishing work - making the crate and cladding with finishing materials or, if the material allows it, then, for example, puttying and painting. When using a minplate, do not forget about the vapor barrier.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the situation when all the work on hydro and thermal insulation was carried out, but the ceiling of the last floor still freezes through. Freezing spots are clearly visible on drywall and wallpaper - they change color to a darker one. Such a situation is possible when, for example, the insulation was carried out with a mineral plate, which was not properly fixed on inclined planes and eventually slipped down. In this case, holes are drilled in places of freezing and through them all cavities are filled with mounting foam from cylinders.

So, a properly insulated house will not only save people living in it from the cold, but will also last much longer, because thermal insulation, in addition to its main job, also protects structural elements houses from destruction.

Evgeny Dubinin, rmnt.ru

The process has its supporters and ardent opponents. In their own truth, both those and others, it all depends on the situation. But before choosing this particular type of insulation, you need to know which insulation is suitable, to study the nuances of performing insulation work.

To insulate the walls inside the room is to make your home comfortable and cozy for living. This type of heat saving is unconventional, usually used. But there are situations when there is no other way out.

This option can also be considered apartment building when the insulation internal walls the only way to insulate the room. This process will help eliminate the formation of fungus in the room.

Cons of internal insulation

This method has its drawbacks, so it has many opponents.

Problems with internal thermal insulation of walls arise as follows:

• with external thermal insulation, the walls of the building are protected from the cold, which cannot be achieved with insulation from the inside. The base is in contact with the environment, cracks may appear on it;
• the occurrence of condensation. With internal heat saving, moves beyond load-bearing structure and is formed between the insulator and the surface. The result may be the development of fungal formations that will be difficult to notice;
• area reduction. Modern heat insulators have excellent characteristics, but have not yet come up with a material that would take up little space. At the moment, with insulation work, the room will become smaller by 10 cm on each side.

Before deciding on internal insulation, it is worth weighing all the shortcomings, and considering the advantages, only in this way it will be possible to avoid errors and shortcomings during installation.

Thermal insulation materials

This technology allows the use of various thermal insulation materials for walls, which have pros and cons.

The most popular heat insulators:

• wood fiber board;
• ecowool;
• glass wool.

These insulators are commercially available everywhere, and are inexpensive. We will analyze the characteristics of each type of insulators that can be used as insulation from the inside.

Penoplex and polystyrene

A productive and affordable heat insulator, which is used very often in the insulation of apartments, in high-rise buildings. It is enough to take a plate with a thickness of 5 cm. No special tools are needed, and installation is not difficult.

But this material has disadvantages:

• combustibility;
• low strength;
• vapor tightness - if you do not make working ventilation in the apartment, otherwise it will turn into a greenhouse.

Ventilation must be equipped with forced ventilation - this may require additional costs.

This option of thermal insulation is suitable only for concrete, brick, foam block structures, since wood covered with this heat-insulating material loses its ability to "breathe".

Mineral wool

A very common thermal insulator. It is widely used in apartments and industrial buildings, in addition, it is used as a filler in plasterboard partitions, as it has excellent soundproofing properties.

Mineral wool is inexpensive, has excellent vapor barrier. For an apartment or house, it is better to purchase rigid basalt wool slabs, they are easy to install. Another plus of the material is incombustibility.

But it is worth using this material with great care if the walls in the apartment become damp, the basalt wool is hygroscopic, and when wet it completely loses its insulating properties. Therefore, before laying it on the walls, it is necessary to equip the waterproofing layer, and before finishing the lining, pull the vapor barrier.

For waterproofing works, it is better to use membranes, they have vapor permeability and will not interfere with the “breathing” of external walls.

Wood fiber boards

This material has a number of positive characteristics:

• good heat saving and sound insulation;
• not afraid of temperature changes;
• moisture resistant;
• easy to handle and install;
• it does not breed rodents.

Often this material is used specifically for exterior decoration, it is treated with special impregnations that can harm human health.

Foil insulation

Technological processes do not stand still, therefore, innovative developments in the field of insulation and construction are constantly appearing on the market. Such a novelty is a foil heat insulator.

The material is a layer of foamed polyester, on which a layer of thin aluminum foil is glued. The property of this material is that heat is reflected from the foil layer and directed inside the house.

Many manufacturers produce polyester with a self-adhesive layer, so it is very convenient to work with this material, it is enough to carefully prepare the surface and stick insulation on the wall.

Ecowool

The material, which appeared on the market quite recently, but immediately gained popularity among the townsfolk, thanks to a lot of advantages:

• naturalness and safety. The heat insulator is produced by processing secondary cellulose, therefore it is non-toxic;
• excellent indicators of thermal insulation;
• air impermeability;
• fine fiber structure;
• durability;
• does not shrink.

But, despite the positive characteristics, the material has several significant disadvantages that prevent its widespread use:

• the impossibility of doing the installation by hand. The material is applied by wet spraying using special equipment. For insulation, you will have to invite specialists;
• with vertical spraying, the laying of the material must be carried out in stages, since there is a possibility of the layer slipping;
• combustibility;
• the period of solidification of the mass is 24 hours, subject to good ventilation;
• price;
• the need to equip the frame.

The internal thermal insulation of the walls with the help of ecowool is carried out strictly on a wooden crate, the step of which can vary from 60 cm to 1 meter. The frame is constructed so that during spraying the material does not slip from a vertical surface.

glass wool

This heat insulator has been used in construction for a very long time. The main component of this material is fiberglass.

The use of glass wool is due to the following characteristics:

• high soundproof qualities;
• flexibility - due to its structure, glass wool can take any shape;
• fire resistance;
• resistance to chemical attack;
• affordable cost;
• breathability.

But it is worth talking about the shortcomings:

• the material is unstable to mechanical stress, therefore it is mounted only on the frame;
• It has greater degree shrinkage over time;
• service life of 10 years, then glass wool loses its thermal insulation properties;
• destroyed by sun exposure.

Despite the shortcomings, the material is very often used for room insulation, as it has a low cost and ease of installation.

When working with glass wool, it is necessary to use protective equipment - goggles, a mask, gloves and tight clothing, since small, sharp particles of the material cause severe itching when it comes into contact with the skin.

How to choose the right material for indoor insulation

Before you mount the wall insulation from the inside with your own hands, we choose the right insulator that meets the following requirements:

• human safety;
• environmental friendliness;
• durability;
• fire resistance;
• vapor permeability;
• low thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance.

With internal insulation, the house stands even before the start of installation, they equip a good ventilation system, otherwise the microclimate in the room will become unfavorable over time.

Comparative table of thermal insulation materials:

Material name	Density	Thermal conductivity	Vapor permeability	moisture absorption
Styrofoam	40	0, 037	0,05	2
Penoplex	28	0,028	0,006	0,2
Wood fiber	250-400	0,045-0,09	1	12
mineral wool	30-220	0,07	0,38-0,60	70
Ecowool	35-65	0,032-0,042	0,67	-
glass wool	10-50	0,029-0,052	0,5-0,6	10-15

Wall insulation technology from the inside

Experts advise to apply room insulation from the inside only in special occasions, For example:

• if the apartment is located above the second floor, and for external insulation it is necessary to involve industrial climbers;
• in new buildings, if it is not possible to rent facade finishing and produce external thermal insulation;
• if the insulation of the facade violates the architectural ensemble.

Ways to insulate walls from the inside:

• by frame;
• on glue.

The first method does not require careful leveling of the bearing surface. Besides facing material it is very simple to fix it on the frame, so if you plan to build plasterboard walls after insulation, then you don’t need to mount the crate. If after insulation it is planned to plaster the surface, then there is no need for a frame. In any case, the method of fastening the material directly depends on the further finishing of the walls.

Frame insulation

Like a wall from inside a room on a frame? This thermal insulation of the walls from the inside, the process is laborious, but more reliable. Thanks to the frame, the fragile material is not subjected to mechanical stress, this is especially true if polystyrene is chosen as the heat-insulating material.

The wall does not need to be leveled, but before installation it is worth cleaning the surface of the plaster, if it has peeled off, dirt, dust and cover it with an antiseptic composition.

The frame is constructed of aluminum profiles or bars. Fastening is carried out on dowels or self-tapping screws - depending on the material from which the base is made. The pitch of the racks should be equal to the width of the material, for example, if a soft insulation for walls inside the walls is chosen, then the distance is reduced by two centimeters, when using foam or polystyrene, exactly 60 cm.

If a decision is made to use wooden elements as racks, then they should be treated with impregnation, which will prevent rotting and the formation of fungus.

As soon as the frame is ready, a heat insulator is laid in the gaps, all seams between the material are sealed with mounting foam. After the foam dries, it is cut flush. After that, you can proceed to the final finish.

Thermal insulation of walls inside the premises on the frame is made by the following materials:

• glass wool;
• basalt insulation;
• Styrofoam;
• wood fiber.

Any of the above materials can be mounted using lathing on the walls, except for foil insulation.

Installation of insulation on glue

This type of installation requires careful preparation of the plane of the walls before insulating.

They are cleaned of dust and dirt, degreased. Further work goes according to the following algorithm:

• walls after cleaning are subject to alignment and repair. Cracks are puttied, large protrusions are knocked down, and cavities are sealed with mortar;
• all planes are treated with an antiseptic, or a primer with an antimicrobial effect;
• the primer is applied in two layers;
• after drying, you can start mounting the plates on the glue, it is applied to the wall and to the material with a notched trowel;
• the glue will dry for 2-3 days;
• as soon as the surface dries, you need to perform additional fixation with dowels-umbrellas.

Do not forget that the installation of material layers is carried out with an offset. At the same time, it is imperative to waterproof the base surface and vapor barrier the insulation itself after installation.

The arrangement of insulation for glue has its limitations, since only dense pits are used for this, for example:

• Styrofoam;
• wood fiber;
• penoplex;
• forged insulation.

As soon as all the measures for the installation of the heat insulator are completed, proceed to the finish.

Finishes

Usually, when installing heat-saving boards on glue, they are plastered, using a forming mesh for gypsum composition, and fiberglass for putty. These measures will prevent cracking of the finish coat.

After all plastering and puttying work is completed, and the walls have dried out, we clean the surface with a fine abrasive mesh and paint it with a water emulsion of the desired shade.

Many are faced with such a problem, heat is not stored in a heated room, the reason for this may be the dissipation of thermal energy through the walls. How to deal with it? How to keep warm inside the house? How to insulate a house? What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? For this, the house is insulated. The most correct solution would be to insulate the walls of the room, their outer part, you can use any heat insulator for this.

He will be able to create protection for warm indoor air from the outside cold and will effectively maintain the necessary microclimate of the room. Also, the advantages of insulating external walls include their protection from water vapor and light radiation, which will significantly extend their service life.

What is the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside? What is the best way to insulate a house? How to insulate stone house, brick or wooden? High-quality thermal insulation is the key to comfort and coziness of a private or country house.

How to insulate a house with your own hands? How to spend good thermal insulation and do it in the best way?

In total, there are three main types of thermal insulation work in a private house:

• The insulation is fixed directly to the wall using special glue or other devices. Then it is covered with a construction mesh and plastered for finishing materials.
• In this case, the heat insulator is also mounted on the wall of the room, but then an additional brick wall is installed on the foundation. A small air space or gap is left between the insulation and the wall. With this method, the heat insulator is not plastered.
• This insulation option consists of several phased work. First of all, the walls of the house are covered with a special waterproofing film, then the material selected as a heater is mounted, after which it is necessary to install protection against water vapor and wind. And only after that, with the help of a special frame made of wooden beams or metal guides, materials for the external cladding of the premises are installed, such as various siding, lining, ceramic tiles and much more. The use of this variant, the so-called ventilated facade, can be carried out at any time of the year, since there is no need to use any mortar.

The considered options represent a general direction, in each of them there may be certain changes associated with the use of certain materials as a heater. Modern market thermal insulation materials is quite wide and some of them may require a different installation technique.

Also, the choice of a heat insulator, its parameters depend on the material from which the walls of the house are made. As an example, consider the principles of installing insulation for wooden, brick and concrete walls.

Installation of heaters

What to insulate? Any heat insulator has certain properties, but in any case, it will be able to keep your home warm. They differ in price, in the material from which they are made and in such parameters as moisture resistance, vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. Heaters that are presented on the construction market: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, basalt slab and cellulose insulation.

The use of one or another insulating material is associated with climatic conditions, the method of installation work and the coefficient of thermal conductivity. The calculation takes into account the width bearing wall, the thermal conductivity of the insulator, the internal temperature of the room. Then you can start installing the heater. How to prepare a wall for the installation of insulation?

Consider the instruction:

• First of all, you need to clean the wall from old plaster and other materials up to the material from which it is made.
• After that, it is necessary to level the wall surfaces, repair cracks and pits and chop off protrusions, clean dust and dirt, and carefully apply a primer, without missing a single centimeter of area.

A primer should be used that has the property of deep penetration into the wall, choosing one or another type depending on the material from which the primed surface is made.

• Installation of insulation should be done in an even layer without surface curvature, depressions and protrusions, using the tools provided for this: beacons, plumb lines, levels, corners and others. Otherwise, you may encounter problems with further plastering of the wall or installation of facing material, that is, applying different thicknesses of plaster material and installing additional guides. What does the beacon system look like? Screws are screwed on the upper edge of the surface, several pieces depending on the length of the wall, on which a dense thread with a metal plumb line is hung at the bottom.
• After that, horizontal threads are installed that connect all the vertical ones. Thus, a network is formed that will determine the level during the installation of a heater or frame system. After such preparatory work you can start installing a heat insulator.

Can be performed different materials. How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside? How do materials differ from each other?

Use of Styrofoam

Use of expanded polystyrene as a heater. How to insulate a house from the outside with polystyrene foam? You need to properly insulate according to the instructions.

Installation instructions for this thermal insulation product:

• At the beginning, it is necessary to install a corner along the lower edge of the wall, observing the desired level - the first layer of heat insulator will be aligned along it. It is installed using special glue, glue for ceramic tiles is also suitable.
• The sheets are pressed tightly against the wall and leveled with plumb lines and a level. The second layer of material is applied after the final drying of the first, so as not to knock it off the level.

It should be noted that the sheets of each subsequent level are mounted in a brick order, that is, the seam of the lower level is located in the middle of the sheet of the next row. This is done so that the sheets of the bottom row hold the top ones.

• From the second row, expanded polystyrene is attached using special anchors, "umbrellas", as they are called differently. They are driven into each of the four corners and into the center of the sheet.
• Vertical and horizontal seams are glued with construction tape with reinforcing properties. IN window openings and at the corners of the walls of the heaters it is additionally fastened with corners made of metal.
• After the wall is completely covered with insulation, a building mesh is mounted on it, then plaster can be applied.

Expanded polystyrene is best suited for insulating walls made of brick and concrete. This installation of insulation has its negative sides. So, for example, this material has a low permeability to water vapor, as a result of which the condensate that will accumulate in the wall can eventually lead to it getting wet.

To avoid this, before installation work to establish a heater, the walls must be dried qualitatively. It is also important to keep them dry during operation. If all this cannot be achieved, then in this case it is better to use the method of installing insulation, which provides for its ventilation.

Remember that in the end there should not be a place where there will be access to polystyrene foam, otherwise small rodents can damage it, and it will also be affected by the environment, which will lead to damage and loss of properties.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of the house can be carried out using polystyrene foam.

The use of mineral wool

Many are inclined to believe that it is better to insulate the walls with mineral wool. Mineral wool is another popular insulation. How to insulate a private house using mineral wool? The installation of this insulation is similar in its technological procedures to thermal insulation made using basalt or cellulose slabs.

Installation instructions mineral wool:

• In the beginning, wall preparation is always required. We will clean the walls of old plaster and try to level the surface.
• Then you should proceed with the installation of the frame. It is made of wooden beams, by creating a vertical and horizontal crate. At the same time, the width and length of the empty space should be less than the insulation sheet by about thirty millimeters - this the necessary conditions so that the mineral wool sheet enters it easily and does not form a large gap.
• As a fastening of mineral wool sheets, anchor bolts are mounted, on which the material is hung. Since most often the walls remain uneven, it is better to use mineral wool, consisting of two layers. At the same time, a softer layer is installed directly on the wall, thanks to its structure, the most excellent connection of sheets with a heat-insulated surface occurs.

On some versions of mineral wool, plaster can be applied after installing the building mesh or a special vapor-permeable insulating film can be installed. Then it is necessary to strengthen it and the heat insulator with additional wooden beams, after which the facing material is installed. Suitable lining, various siding, tiles and facing bricks.

This type of home insulation, three-layer ventilated, has proven itself in all climatic zones. It is especially suitable for walls made of wood, as it allows this product to breathe and not get damp.

Use of polyurethane foam

How to properly insulate a house with polyurethane foam? When mounting this heater, you must adhere to the same frame structure, as with mineral wool insulation with the installation of wind protection. At the same time, polyurethane foam is foamed onto the wall in a place free from the frame under the film, forming a very strong connection with the wall, thanks to which an excellent result is achieved in preserving heat inside the premises.

But there is one drawback - when using this type of insulation, when mounted on vertical walls, it is difficult to form a layer of the same thickness, so it is most often used on horizontal surfaces such as ceilings or roof slopes at a slight angle. Insulating walls with polyurethane is not difficult. It is necessary to insulate the house (booth) using additional products.

The use of basalt slabs

The insulation of the walls of the house from the outside can be carried out using basalt slabs. During the installation of this thermal insulation product, it is necessary to additionally apply a vapor barrier film.

Laying this protective film is carried out on the bars, which have a horizontal position, and between the rafters. Then it is necessary to seal the formed joints. Sealing is carried out using a specially designed tape. The layer should be 200 millimeters. Next, a layer of wind protection is laid, and a coating of purlins is made thanks to the beams. This is done in order to provide ventilation.

Before starting the insulation of external walls with this material, it is necessary to make a coating of purlins - this is different from the thermal insulation of the internal walls of a building. Leave a gap for ventilation. Attachment of basalt slabs is carried out thanks to self-tapping screws. The final stage of installation includes finishing the surface with siding or some other coating.

To insulate the walls from the outside basalt slabs, you must strictly follow the rules. Warming of a private house is often carried out using basalt slabs.

Cellulose use

How to insulate walls with cellulose? Cellulose can be mounted using three methods: mechanical, dry, wet.

The first method of mounting involves the use of dedicated hardware. Do-it-yourself wall insulation mechanically from the outside is quite expensive. mechanical method has high performance. This method allows the walls to "breathe". Therefore, it is not necessary to apply a vapor barrier layer.

The dry mounting method is used only for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces. How are walls insulated from the outside using this method? The insulation product is applied to the walls manually without the use of special equipment. First, the pulp must be fluffed, this is done with a drill.

Then it must be poured out of the container to the surface. Next is its tamping. If, nevertheless, the insulation needs to be applied to a vertical surface, then the work will take place in two stages. First you need to build a wall from the frame, the height of which should be 50 centimeters. Then you need to pour in a heat-insulating product and tamp it. So other parts of the walls are also insulated.

Wet method - it is used for thermal insulation of vertical structures. First, the cellulose must be moistened with water. Thanks to this procedure, the cellulose will seize without problems.

All methods of insulation can be used to insulate a private house from the outside. Or it will be the insulation of a country house.

What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? Eat various materials to insulate walls from the outside. Each thermal insulation material has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main thing is to be cheap, inexpensive, but of high quality. Use the material for warming the house outside, which has high technical characteristics.

We hope the description of each of them will help you to make right choice. Wall insulation from the outside is an important element in achieving overall comfort. You can insulate the house from the outside with your own hands without anyone's help. You will achieve maximum comfort and coziness in the house.

For summer residents, owners of private houses, the question of how to insulate the house from the outside and with what remains one of the most relevant. How to properly insulate a house? Competent insulation of external walls not only creates a positive microclimate inside the home, but is very economically beneficial. After all, the need for constant use of heating systems in cold weather is eliminated - therefore, you pay less for electricity. The second aspect is the constant "correct" temperature inside the room, the absence of humidity and, as a result, the exclusion of the appearance of fungus, mold, and putrefactive processes.

You can insulate the house from the outside with your own hands using various modern materials. Initially, you need to look at what the walls of the house are made of, and then decide on the choice of insulation. Each insulation has its own fastening technology. External thermal insulation is also good because it does not reduce the volume of the room, does not provoke the accumulation of moisture, and prevents the walls from “sweating”. Consider the most commonly used heaters and the specifics of their installation, ways to insulate the house from the outside.

Foam insulation

Insulate the house from the outside with foam - rational decision. This home insulation is good for everyone: it is light, inexpensive, does not require the use of any special technologies, tools.

Installation steps:

1. First you need to prepare the surface, level it well. Styrofoam is produced in the form of plates, therefore, the smoother the outer part of the wall is, the better the fit (the absence of voids), the less labor costs it will be possible to insulate the house.
2. The surface should be well cleaned, primed to eliminate the remains of glue or whitewash.
3. This is followed by the installation of external window sills (low tides).
4. Installation of the starting bar - the base, which will prevent the foam plates from sliding down. Also, this element helps to lay the plates evenly (observe the line).
5. To insulate the house, laying foam insulation starts from the bottom of the wall, the accuracy of the installation of the bottom plate is responsible for the evenness of all subsequent rows. Universal adhesive is suitable for fixing the boards facade works, silicone sealant, glue for tiles, other varieties. Some craftsmen recommend fixing the plates with nails for greater reliability (3 days after installation). However, in this case, one should take into account the characteristics of the material from which the walls of the building were erected, whether it will be possible to use nails in this case.

As for houses made of timber, before insulating a wooden house from the outside, scrupulously examine the surface for holes and cracks, and then seal them with mineral wool, polyurethane foam or ecowool. There should be no drafts or air pockets.

Before proceeding to describe the characteristics of another insulation, it is worth clarifying some of the nuances regarding the foam. To the frequently asked question: is it possible for them to insulate the house from the outside, the answer will be positive - yes, you can.

It is characterized by quite good thermal insulation parameters, but at the same time there is an opinion that it is short-lived, has a high flammability, and is unsafe in terms of ecology.

Let's look at these factors in more detail:

1. Styrofoam contains polymer additives that are really flammable. However, the danger can only threaten when the installation of the plates was carried out incorrectly, the safety requirements and the rules for operating this particular material were not observed. It is quite successfully used at different stages of building houses, if all stages of the insulation "pie" are correctly carried out, then everything will be fine. Its ignition temperature is 491 degrees, which is almost twice as high as that of wood or paper-based materials. Thus, in terms of flammability, it is no more dangerous than wooden furniture or floors.
2. It is difficult to voice an objective opinion regarding the durability of foam plastic, for the reason that it is relatively young. When choosing, pay attention to its manufacturer, as well as its quality. Most manufacturers guarantee its service life as a heater up to 70 years, taking into account temperature fluctuations from -40 to +40 ° C.
3. Styrofoam is non-toxic, non-toxic, biologically neutral. There has not yet been a single case of a builder or a person who constantly works with him, poisoned or fell ill. When in contact with it, you do not need to wear respirators or protective gloves. It is distinguished by the effect of "breathing" - this allows you to maintain an acceptable level of humidity inside the room.
4. On forums dedicated to construction topics, sometimes there is information that foam insulation does not provide heat gain. This opinion is correct, but we should not forget that it perfectly retains heat in the house. If you decide to insulate the walls with it, then approximately 30% of the heat that used to "leave" the street will remain indoors. It is very important, before you insulate the walls outside in a private house with foam or foam, to determine its thickness, which is required specifically for your home.

Comparative characteristics of materials for insulation

Very often you can hear the question, what is the difference between foam plastic and foam plastic? These heat-insulating materials are really almost the same: both are light in weight, moisture resistant, do not rot, are afraid of solvents, acetone. Both have a "related" origin - a method of foaming polystyrene. In appearance, their difference lies in different color- Penoplex has a yellow-orange color. But when the question arises, what is the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside with foam plastic or foam plastic, the latter demonstrates higher rates of density, moisture resistance, and airtightness.

If you live in a zone of high humidity, then when choosing a heater for external walls, it is better to opt for foam. The same mineral wool in such conditions is completely unsuitable for insulating walls and foundations.

A short list of characteristics of penoplex:

• higher density, respectively, slightly reduced thermal insulation performance;
• higher moisture resistance;
• higher degree of flammability;
• treated with flame retardants, which affects its environmental friendliness.

In turn, foam:

• lower density (brittle);
• higher heat preservation (due to the friability of the structure);
• the degree of moisture resistance is lower (again, due to friability);
• low soundproofing performance;
• performs better in combination with other more durable building materials.

Otherwise, they are almost the same, the choice is yours how to insulate.

Now let's look at what is the best way to insulate the house from the outside, with foam plastic or mineral wool? Again, the choice is always determined by many factors: price, climatic conditions the material from which the house was built. For example, mineral wool is optimal for a wooden house ( stone wool, glass wool), it is a non-combustible building material. When working with mineral wool, wear protective clothing, gloves, and a respirator.

If we consider the characteristics of both heaters from manufacturers, then approximately the same thermal conductivity parameters will be indicated. In fact, this is not entirely true - the foam during insulation shows the best results. Only dense balsalt wool in slabs can be compared with it - one of the varieties of mineral wool. In terms of ease of installation, foam insulation also wins: no protection when working with the material, low weight, no dust during processing. Plus, insulating with foam is cheaper than with mineral wool in terms of cost.

Mineral wool performs better at the joints, cold bridges are practically excluded, while polystyrene sins with this. The problem is solved if, for individual stages of work, sheets with an L-shaped edge are selected. How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside if they have an uneven surface? Mineral wool is good because it can be cut into fragments of any shape and size - this is very convenient when insulating uneven walls. For foam insulation, the surface must be flat.

Sometimes they are used together, this technique is called multi-layer thermal insulation. In such cases, the foam should be located under the mineral wool. Mineral wool should act as the top layer.

How to insulate a block house from the outside?

Some modern building materials used for the construction of houses initially have high thermal insulation performance. Often, the manufacturer assures that a house built from this material will not need additional insulation. This is not always the case, take, for example, aerated concrete - an excellent environmentally friendly building material with a cellular structure. It really has high rates of thermal insulation, but it also needs insulation.

How to insulate an aerated concrete house from the outside? Due to the high vapor permeability, foam or foam plastic should be immediately excluded. If there is a violation of air exchange between interior And external environment, condensate collects on the border of the wall and the heat-insulating material (which is why it is constantly wet). If aerated concrete gets wet, mold, fungi will start on it, putrefactive processes will begin. In this situation, polyurethane foam or mineral wool in the form of mats will be appropriate as a heater.

Initially, the surface of the wall is cleaned of debris, then primed. Any irregularities are plastered with a special mixture.

Installation steps:

1. Mineral wool in mats is attached to the treated surface with suitable adhesive mixtures, but in no case with dowels.
2. Fiberglass is laid on top (silicate glue to help), it acts as a reinforcing layer.
3. To insulate those places where window or doorways, insulation material mounted with reinforcing mesh or corners.
4. Then follows the turn of the plaster and finishing, for example, staining.

The presence of high-quality waterproofing is extremely important for walls made of aerated concrete, since the porous structure actively absorbs moisture. When insulating such a house, dowels and self-tapping screws should be excluded, since any slightest cracks or cracks can lead to disastrous results for the entire structure. Suitable adhesive mixtures or chemical anchors may be used.

How to insulate a house from a bar outside?

Now consider how to insulate a house from wooden beam 150×150 outside. In theory, foam or foam plastic could also be used here, but there is one “but” - for wooden houses they are not suitable due to ventilation requirements. Mineral wool passes air well and at the same time is thermal insulation. In turn, the foam is a reliable barrier to cold, but does not allow free air exchange, which is important for timber houses. If wooden walls warm them, then after a while fungus, rot will appear on them, especially since in winter there will be nowhere to go from condensate.

In addition to mineral wool, you will need waterproofing, a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with anchors, a protective antifungal agent, which will need to be pre-treated with the surface of the walls.

The installation steps are as follows:

• wall preparation;
• laying the first waterproofing layer;
• installation of the crate;
• mineral wool laying;
• installation of the second waterproofing layer;
• how to close the insulation on the wall outside the house? The last step is decorative plaster or sheathing with siding (or other suitable material).

Mineral wool should be located tightly, without through gaps. At the bottom, near the foundation and at the top, under the roof overhang, air should be left to ensure air circulation and steam removal (so that condensate does not settle on the vapor barrier layer).

basement insulation

What is the best way to insulate the basement of the house from the outside? The basement also takes on atmospheric precipitation, which means that the insulation for it must have reliable waterproof qualities. This part of the house can be insulated with foaming agents, mineral wool, polystyrene foam. Each of them requires individual approach, installation features. However, the best and easiest to work with is polystyrene - durable, strong, moisture resistant. In all respects, this material is the most advantageous among other heaters.

Before installing polystyrene boards, the surface must be treated with a primer. Fastening is carried out on top of the waterproofing layer, with polyurethane glue or with the help of bitumen-polymer mastic. It is important that the adhesive mixture does not contain solvents - this destroys the material. The thicker the plate you choose, the better the insulation will be.

Any house, no matter what it is built from, needs proper insulation. The answer to the question of how to insulate a house from the outside and with what will depend on many factors: source material structure, atmospheric features of the region, the cost of insulation. In any case, it is better to spend money on high-quality insulation outside once than to give heat to the street for years, to heat the house around the clock.

Just as a person protects his head, body, legs during a cold snap, so do-it-yourself warming of a private house includes work on thermal insulation of the roof, walls and foundation, shown in the photo of warming the house.

This process consists of warming the house from the outside and measures taken to insulate the premises from the inside.

outdoor work

Roof insulation is best carried out at the stage of building a house. To do this, starting from the eaves, lay a film on the rafters for waterproofing with an overlap and a sag between the rafters. Then the crate is mounted and the insulation is laid.

If mineral wool was used, then it is covered with a protective film and roofing work is started.

The complex of works to improve the thermal protection of walls includes cleaning them from dust, paint, plaster, leveling and sealing cracks. At this stage, it is advisable to replace or thermally insulate windows.

When using mineral wool, a crate of wooden bars or aluminum profiles is mounted at a distance from each other less than two centimeters of the width of the wool. Mineral wool boards are inserted and a polyethylene film or windproof membrane is fixed over them.

A horizontal crate of boards is installed and the walls are sheathed with siding.

When using polyurethane foam or polystyrene, a thrust bar is fixed 10-15 cm from the ground.

The first row of foam plastic rests on this bar, and the subsequent ones are laid with a shift to the previous row by half the slab and fixed to the wall with fasteners. Then a reinforcing mesh is glued on top and plastering or tiling is performed.

When thermally insulating the foundation, it is necessary to clean it from the ground, apply a primer and two layers of polymer mastic or a two-component cement mortar with fast hardening.

After 5-7 days, the heat-insulating material (polyurethane foam, polystyrene, foam glass, perlitobitumen) is fixed with the help of dowels, glue, mastic. A reinforcing mesh is installed and plaster is applied. The trench is filled with slag, sand, expanded clay and a blind area is equipped to drain water.

Internal work

Warm floors are comfort, and a well-protected ceiling is the preservation of 25 to 40% of the heat in the room.

The sequence of actions for warming the floor in the house depends on the base.

If there is an earthen base below, then the surface layer of the earth is removed or sand and crushed stone are poured so that there is a distance of 10-15 cm to the intended floor. Then a thick film or oilcloth is laid for waterproofing and everything is poured with a layer of cement mortar 40 mm thick.

Styrofoam plates are laid on the mortar or expanded clay is poured, which can be poured with cement milk.

Time is given for two days to dry the screed and pour cement mortar layer thickness of 70 mm. Then a reinforcing mesh is laid on top and, after drying, a decorative floor covering is mounted.

It is necessary to lay a waterproofing film on the ceiling of a reinforced concrete slab, then mineral wool. From above, cover with a mounting grid, pour concrete mortar and lay a decorative floor covering.

Note!

Thermal insulation of the ceiling can be made from two sides. From the side of the attic, this involves the installation of a waterproofing layer, the laying of insulation and the installation of a subfloor.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside depends on the type of ceiling and includes for wooden ceilings elimination of cracks and an antiseptic primer, and for concrete sealing of cracks and a primer. The heat-insulating material is glued and fastened with special fasteners for greater reliability.

The gaps between the pieces of insulation are filled with mounting foam and work is being done on the installation of a stretch ceiling.

To use the crate, the ceiling is marked out according to the width of the insulation (minus 20-30 mm for mineral wool). Wooden blocks are installed or metal profiles, insulation boards are inserted and covered with a vapor barrier film on top. After that, the ceiling is sheathed with finishing material (lining, plasterboard sheets).

How to insulate a frame house?

External insulation is the most effective way thermal protection of the building and does not reduce the interior space of the house. The technology for performing the work is that if the house has already been built, then you need to remove everything from the outside to the main racks of the frame.

On top of the racks, horizontally fill a counter-lattice from a beam of 50x50 mm and put the insulation in the “second layer”. Then install the OSB board, hydro-, windproof film and crate.

Note!

The outer walls of the house are sheathed with siding under a log, wooden clapboard, plastic siding.

Insulation from the inside is done in the same way as outside, but instead of siding or lining, drywall is used.

Photo of warming the house with your own hands

Note!