As soon as a new stove is folded in the bath, or repair work is carried out on its surface, any attendant asks one question: "How to plaster the stove?"

Under the influence of heat, moisture, expanding when stones and bricks are heated, cracks appear on the stove. The fine web of cracks gradually turns into solid holes. Therefore, repairing the stove in the bath is a common thing.

There is no need to wait for the moment when the crack turns into a hole. It's time to get down to business right away. Plaster solutions will help to resolve the issue of repairing the furnace. The main purpose of these solutions is to give the queen of the stove its original appearance.

Furnace finishing components are, as before, clay, sand, lime, cement, asbestos. These are binders, and their mixture with water is called a solution.

The most important purpose of binders is to bind the masonry of the oven. Required condition to obtain a quality solution, this is a good quality of the raw materials.

Therefore, sand, cement and asbestos must be sieved through a fine sieve before starting work. The clay is pre-soaked in water and filtered through cheesecloth, and then thoroughly mixed until smooth. Clean, dry clay will reduce the strength of the mortar.

An important point in the preparation of mortars for plastering ovens is the correct observance of proportions. The most important is the ratio of clay and sand, based on the proportion of one part of clay - two parts of sand. The components are mixed in dry form (with the exception of clay), and filled with clay or lime water. The more water you add, the thinner the solution will be, so you need to pour water in carefully, in small portions.

There are many types of solutions, I will give recipes for the most popular and simple ones.

Recipes for plaster solutions

For one part of clay, two parts of sand and a tenth of asbestos (0.1 part) are taken.
One part of clay is two parts of sand, one part of lime and one tenth of asbestos.
One part of clay is two parts of sand, one part of cement and a tenth of asbestos.

The plaster mortar, which contains cement, will be dark in color when dry, so the repair of the furnace will not end there. The oven will need to be whitewashed.

A solution with lime and asbestos will be white, if it is well leveled when applied to the stove, or, as experts say: “wipe,” then whitewashing of the stove is not required.

I want to say a few words about the expiration date of the solutions, it is limited for any formulation. The mortar which contains cement is suitable only for an hour. And a solution containing asbestos, or simply gypsum, lasts only 5 minutes. Therefore, you need to work with it very quickly, and if you are a beginner in this business, then I do not recommend using such a plaster solution.

The tool you need to work

For work, you will need gloves, a mixing container, a construction spatula. Astringents do not have a positive effect on the condition of our skin, so it is better to work with gloves.

The mixing container should be free of rust, sharp edges, and you shouldn't feel sorry for it. 🙂 The fact is that plaster solutions are washed out rather poorly.

Choose a spatula for work at your discretion. For me, for example, it is more convenient to work with a medium-sized spatula.

Be sure to remove the old plaster before you start filling cracks. Moisten the prepared place with plenty of water, this is necessary for better adhesion of the solution to the surface.

Plastering work is carried out on a cold stove, preferably on a fine, warm day. After work, open all the doors in the bathhouse wide open, let the queen-stove dry out in an amicable way.

As my mother told me: "The eyes are afraid, the hands are doing." Remember, the main principle in this work is: “If you want to do something well, do it yourself”!

When a new stove and a stove that has already served in order need plastering? This is especially true for hot parts of the structure. Therefore, the question of how to plaster the stove is by no means idle. There are many recipes, and each has its own little tricks. Let's try to find the best one.

A sauna stove, like any other stove, works in difficult temperature conditions. Downtime in a cold state is replaced by work at high thermal loads on its hot part. Any material, even heat-resistant material, has its own coefficient of thermal expansion, which leads to a change in the original linear dimensions of an individual element, for example a brick.

The brick has warmed up, its dimensions have increased, the brick has cooled down, the dimensions, naturally, returned to their original values. And so dozens, and sometimes hundreds of times. One can imagine what kind of deformation the masonry joints and decorative finishing surface undergo. Linear deformations lead to permanent bond failure individual elements in a single furnace system, and in the most unfavorable scenario, and to the destruction of the structure as such. Therefore, for long-term operation of the stove in a bath, it is necessary to adhere to a number of fairly simple rules:

Systematically inspect the stove for its performance and the presence of deformation. The initial signs are manifested in the appearance of the smallest, barely noticeable cracks on the plane. In the future, they grow, connect with each other and form a network, in common parlance, called "cobweb". If at this stage no treatment is carried out, then in the future, the area and depth of the channels of the cracks grows, the plaster "cakes" are peeled off from the surface of the masonry, and there it is not far before the integrity of the brick bond between themselves is broken.
To carry out repairs in a timely manner and using materials designed for significant differences in operational temperature conditions... The sauna stove, in most cases, works at a "ragged" pace, that is, it is heated about once a week, unless, of course, the sauna is used as a purely commercial facility, in an end-to-end schedule.
When carrying out plastering work, it is necessary to strictly observe all technological requirements and practical techniques in order to obtain the required result in terms of the final quality.

What is plastering

Traditionally, the most affordable and, nevertheless, effective binding material is high-quality gully clay. Why is it a ravine, but because a mineral of the required quality lies at a certain depth from the surface of the day. That, however, absolutely does not interfere with the extraction of clay raw materials in quarries and commonplace pits.

In general, there are a lot of binders for plastering the furnace, in addition to clay, these are: cement, alabaster, commonly known as gypsum, slaked lime. In addition to binders in the composition of the solution, an inert material, in our case, quarry or ravine sand. And his chemical composition may be different, certain sands have feldspar in their raw materials, others - quartzites.

A word from the Experienced! Practice shows that a good inert is sand composed of different fractions, or, in more professional language, which has a different size module. Grains of different size adhere to each other better, create a denser array. Therefore, with caution it is worth using fractionated or, as it is also called "calibrated" sand.

In addition to the binder and inert substance, alloying substances must also be present in the plaster solution, that is, materials, the addition of which to its formulation will make it possible to obtain a solution with certain properties. In our case, the key properties are: temperature stability, strength, plasticity, the ability to keep working qualities for a sufficient amount of time and be ready for use.

The ligature includes: liquid or silicate glass, table salt, asbestos, various kinds of heat-resistant plasticizers, chamotte grits, fiberglass.

Attention! Asbestos is classified by the World Health Organization as a carcinogenic material, so its use must be limited by rationalism and common sense and must be accompanied by strict adherence to safety standards for handling potentially hazardous substances.

Here are the main formulations of plastering solutions. For ease of use, we provide this information as a table:

Important! The clay in the given recipe, which is marked in the reference literature as a refractory plaster for the oven, must be lean, ordinary. If enriched or otherwise, oily clay is used, the amount of sand parts should be increased to 4. The clay is added to the mixture only soaked, in a state of clay talker, which has matured for at least 4 hours. The fat content of the clay and its overall quality is determined by means of instrumental control, and at home, in a simple but effective way, by a stick test.

Determining the quality of clay at home

For a long time, stove-makers have been determining the quality and fat content of clay, in particular, by stick-on test. To do this, a smoothly planed stick is lowered into a ripened clay chatterbox, in modern conditions it can be a clean and preferably not cracked handle from a factory-made shovel. The stick is lowered to the full depth of the container and slowly removed. Good quality clay should cover the stick with an even layer about 1.5 - 2 mm thick. This is the norm.

If the stick is covered in places, grooves and runoff traces are visible on the surface, then the clay is skinny. This is either "grinded" or used in a ratio of 1 to 2 with sand. If the stick is covered with a thick, uneven layer, with the inclusion of loose lumps, then the fat content of the clay is excessive, and the rate of sand application to the solution should be increased to 4 parts.

Plaster based on alabaster

Gypsum plastering solutions belong to the class of high-strength, however, they have an unpleasant quality to use, their life time is about 6 - 8 minutes. Within 20 minutes, the solution is finally and irrevocably set.

Here is the recipe:

Attention! To mix alabaster-based mixtures, you need a clean and cold water... PVA glue is used, in part, as a plasticizer, but in general, as a reaction inhibitor, that is, it somewhat slows down the process of setting gypsum. But it must be remembered that gypsum mixes are demanding on the speed of work and their full use.

Cement-based plaster mixes

Cement is a good binder, but classic cement mortars are characterized by low temperature resistance, therefore, heat-resistant plaster for ovens includes several components that increase its characteristics:

The order of mixing such solutions is generally accepted. In a separate container, dry components are mixed, then they are added to an aqueous solution of clay.

Important! The consistency should be close to the density of sour cream and the finished solution should be firmly held on the plane of the trowel. An exception is the mortar for the first layer of masonry. It should be somewhat thinner and fill the masonry joints with confidence.

The order of plastering the stove and basic working techniques

Do-it-yourself plastering of a furnace implies a special procedure for carrying out work and the use of a number of technological methods:

The surface must be prepared prior to application. Preparation of brick surfaces includes the following techniques: the masonry joints are evenly deepened to a depth of about 8 mm. Nails with a wide head and a length of 40 mm are hammered into the seams. A part of the nail stem and a cap, with a total length of no more than 10 mm, should protrude on the surface. Nails are hammered in with a pitch of 150 - 170 mm from one another. The surface of the masonry, for better adhesion of the solution, is wetted with water, or primed with a 20% aqueous solution of PVA glue;
The repair surface is prepared in a slightly different way. The surface is tapped with a trowel handle. Detached areas that emit a dull, booming sound are removed. The slits are cut to the depth of the undamaged layer and approximately 2 times the initial width of the slit channel. The surface is wetted with water or primed;
Plastering is done in stages, in layers. The first or starting layer should have a more liquid consistency of the subsequent ones;
For better retention of the plaster layer, especially if its thickness is large, a heat-resistant plaster mesh with a working cell of 10 × 10 mm is used;
The thickness of each layer should not, with rare exceptions, exceed 10 mm;
Each subsequent layer is applied after drying, but not complete drying of the previous one;
After the finishing layer has dried, the plane is leveled and finished with a standard plaster float;
When choosing a plaster mortar, it should be remembered that cement-based mixtures give a dark final color, clay in its mass retains its natural color, limestone is lighter and alabaster-based mixtures are practically white after drying.

The subsequent design of the plastered surface takes place in the order determined by the project.

Conclusion

Summing up, it should be noted that plastering the stove with your own hands, however, as well as choosing a plaster mixture, is not particularly difficult and is performed by one person. The most important condition is a clear choice of a specific recipe using high-quality components and raw materials. When working, the main thing is strict adherence to the sequence and a clear organization of the work technology. Everything else is not difficult and directly depends on the availability of practical skills and the ability to learn quickly.

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Sauna decoration: we choose the best materials for the steam room, washing and changing rooms

Steam room

Many years ago, having just moved to the village and built our first bathhouse, we were also very arrogant. And they lined the steam room with pine boards. Aroma! The beauty! Joy knew no bounds exactly until the moment when red-hot resin drops began to drip on the head, and ugly streaks appeared on the walls.

I had to tighten up the theory, and not only be proud of my ability to work with my hands. The head in this business is also not superfluous.

Materials for walls and ceilings

It will not be news to anyone that no synthetic materials for covering the steam room are categorically used... Many of them perfectly tolerate heat and moisture, but when heated, they emit harmful substances or become very hot themselves.

But not all natural finishing materials are suitable for this purpose. The most suitable is a tree in the form of a polished edged board, lining, blockhouse or imitation of a bar. However, there are limitations!

Are all rocks able to withstand temperature extremes, resist fungus, not rot due to constant contact with humid air? Not everyone. And many of those that are capable have certain disadvantages: they are expensive, they get very hot or "cry" with resin.

Brief characteristics of different types of wood, which are most often used for finishing baths and saunas, will help you make the right choice:

Linden. It changes very little under the influence of steam and temperature, maintaining a beautiful creamy shade. Fills the steam room with a delicate pleasant aroma. But it gets very hot, so the linden shelf needs to be doused with cold water or a sheet should be laid before planting. It is unlikely that it will be possible to insulate the walls with just linden clapboard without insulating material due to its high thermal conductivity. The cost of 1 sq.m. 600-800 rubles.

Black alder. By operational characteristics ideal material: almost does not change the appearance and properties, on the contrary - the aroma and color of wood becomes more intense over time. In addition does not heat up, allowing you not to be afraid of burns. But it does not exude especially useful phytoncides and is more expensive than linden - 750-1200 rubles.

Aspen. Finishing the inside of the bath with aspen is not the best solution in terms of aesthetics, since it turns gray under the influence of moisture... But in terms of thermal conductivity, it is similar to alder - it does not heat up and can by itself become a good additional heat insulator for walls and ceilings. In addition, it allows you to save money, since it costs 400-500 rubles per sq.m.

Larch. If you need high quality, beautiful and, as they say, for centuries, then larch is an excellent choice. Including the price (up to 1000 rubles per square meter), if we compare it with the cost of valuable wood species with similar properties. She possesses the highest resistance to moisture, which only increases over time... But finishing the steam room in the bath with larch is a difficult task, since this dense wood is difficult to process.

Ash. This wood already belongs to valuable varieties and costs square meter such a lining in the range of 1500-2000 rubles. As for the use for finishing the steam room, it is perfect for this purpose: it has a beautiful texture, does not darken, is not afraid of high humidity and temperature, and besides possesses healing properties especially useful for people with respiratory diseases.

Oak. Of our local wood species, this is the densest and most beautiful. In all respects it is suitable for cladding a steam room, it looks solid and reliable, but it also costs decent: 2300-2800 rubles. This finish is already considered elite.

Abashi. For those who do not count on high costs, this and the next paragraph can be skipped, since it will be very expensive to decorate even a small room with African abasha oak. 3000-3300 rubles per sq.m. This exotic wood is superior to all others in terms of resistance to moisture and has an unusual richness. But it is unlikely that all this justifies its price, since it does not bring any benefit to the body and, moreover, heats up a lot.

Canadian cedar. The most expensive material from the above, used only in elite baths. Delivers a pleasant scent and health benefits essential oils... Very beautiful, easy to handle. Depending on the thickness of the lining, it can cost from 4000 to 8000 rubles per square meter.

The range of prices in these examples is explained not only by the different thickness of the boards, but also by their length. The short ones are cheaper. In general, all these are products of grade A or Extra, so you can find it cheaper.

Now about the very popular and inexpensive, but completely unsuitable for use in hot and humid environments.

Pine and spruce. The most inexpensive lining, costing 200-240 rubles per square meter, is made from these conifers. And it is perfect for wall cladding in the rest room, making furniture for it. The exterior decoration with a pine blockhouse is also quite beautiful and durable, if the walls are built of bricks or blocks.
But in the steam room pine is not allowed. I have already described the reasons above - this is the "tearfulness" of the tree under the influence of high temperatures. Moreover, due to humidity, it becomes loose. And how to apply here protective impregnations it is impossible, then it will not last long.

Birch tree. It is completely unsuitable for wet rooms - steam rooms and especially a shower in a bath. Very afraid of moisture: quickly loses its appearance, begins to rot and mold... But in dry and well-ventilated rooms, the strength and durability will not be inferior to larch or oak. It can be considered as a finishing material for a restroom. Especially if it is spacious and you are looking for something not very expensive. 400-440 rubles per square is quite tolerable.

Honestly, from an aesthetic point of view, it is not so important how you coat the walls and ceiling: very few people will understand at a glance how much it cost you. It is much more important how to decorate the bath. Well-polished, well-fitted planks that are pleasant to touch are half the battle.

Judge for yourself whether the traditional for our region and exotic finish is very different in business:

If your imagination and patience are enough for decorative finishes in the form of backs, headrests and beautiful grilles - even better. All this can be done from expensive varieties.

All these wall cladding tricks are unnecessary if they are built from thick logs of suitable species. It is enough to drill the seams well and grind the frame. But finishing a block or brick bath is not only decorating unsightly surfaces, but also the possibility of warming them and reducing heat loss. But that is another topic.

It is also necessary to consider such a question as the fire-prevention finishing of a bath from a bar or log.

I will not repeat myself in the following sections on the suitability of a particular type of wood for finishing other premises. Their characteristics speak for themselves; it will not be difficult to make a choice.

Floor

The floor in the steam room should not be slippery or overheated. The most inexpensive solution is a cement screed with wooden ladders on top. Slightly more expensive - tiles or porcelain stoneware with the same ladders.

Ladders are grids made of thick boards or bars, which can always be taken out and dried or lifted and washed from all sides. Therefore, there are no special requirements for the type of wood, you can even use pine - on the floor it will not warm up enough to release resin.

Another thing is solid wood flooring... Here you will have to choose rocks resistant to moisture - larch, oak, alder.

There is another option - a heat-treated board. It undergoes special processing with hot (180-200 degrees) steam in the absence of oxygen, while acquiring very high resistance to moisture, strength and dark shade.

The price depends on the type of wood. For example, a square meter of a 40 mm thick floorboard made of pine will cost about 1250 rubles, and from alder already 2700.

Washing room

The washing room can be different. If water is supplied to the bath from a centralized network or a well with a pump, and there is a water heater, it is enough to install a shower cabin or simply equip a shower corner.

This is impossible without running water, so benches and watering cans are needed. It is not uncommon to find both, complemented by a large font or even a swimming pool. And also washing rooms combined with a steam room.

In each case, the interior decoration of the wooden bath will be different:

For the common room, all those materials are used that are described in the previous chapter. It is a wood that can withstand high heat, for walls and ceilings and tiled or concrete floors with ladders.
In a washroom, separated from the steam room and without a shower, for wall decoration any wood can be used except birch... Including coniferous. The temperature is not that high here, so the resin is unlikely to flow. But the air will be filled with a pleasant aroma.

Decorating a shower room in a wooden bath can also be done with clapboard, but in this case good supply and exhaust ventilation is neededto let the boards dry after finishing the procedures. They must be treated with a moisture-repellent agent and the coating must be renewed periodically.

The wall cladding with tiles or stone at least one and a half meters from the floor will be much more durable. If a load-bearing walls wooden, they are waterproofed, sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard, and tiles are already glued to it.

A very convenient option is a shower room with a door or curtain. It can be arranged in a dead end or fence off the corner with a partition. And there will be no questions about how to decorate the walls in the sink: with tiles. And the rest of the space, where there will be no heat, no high humidity, whatever.

It's even easier - to put a ready-made shower stall, and then you don't have to bother with wall cladding, they will do plastic panels... In this case, finishing materials are selected in the same way as for a bathroom in an apartment.

The ceiling can be plastered here and covered with moisture-resistant, wash-resistant paint. But it will be necessary to renew the coverage with regular use of the bath at least once every two years.

Such types of finishes as wooden and plastic lining, slatted or stretch ceiling are also quite acceptable. They are not afraid of moisture, spotlights can be built into them, and the space between the ceiling and the cladding can be filled with thermal insulation.

If the bathhouse is wooden, built from ordinary logs or beams, finishing can be started not earlier than in a year... Because it will settle as the wood shrinks, deforming the cladding.

If you don't want to wait, you can get confused with a floating frame for drywall and tiles. How to do this correctly is described in the article "Plasterboard cladding wooden house". And not lined walls must be treated with an antifungal antiseptic impregnation on a natural basis.

Dressing room

The materials for decorating this room can be very different. But it's hard to come up with something better than a tree. However, it can be supplemented with other types of finishes: decorative plaster, artificial stone tiles, various wall finishes, etc.

It all depends on the size and purpose:

If this is a small dressing room in a freestanding bath, intended only for undressing and dressing, it is better to limit yourself to moisture-resistant wood trim. Especially if the bathhouse is heated once a week, and the rest of the time is not heated.

If this is a spacious rest room with a heating system from home, then your desires are not limited by anything. Although wallpaper and painting on the walls - if only you like it.

Examples for inspiration:

As for how to decorate the bath outside, any facade materials can be used here. Most often, a beautiful log house is left without cladding, limited to caulking joints, grinding and processing with decorative and protective agents.

And buildings made of bricks, foam blocks and other building stone are finished in accordance with the house or imitate a log house using a wooden, plastic or metal blockhouse.

Conclusion

Now you know what materials to use so that the interior decoration of the bath from a bar will please for many years in a row, without requiring repair and alteration. For this, it is not necessary to use expensive exotic materials, which have little health benefit. Our native linden in this respect wins a hundred points over the African oak, and it looks no worse.

If you have something to say or ask on a topic - you are welcome in the comments. Let's discuss.

Brick stove plaster can significantly improve it appearance and increase the service life. In terms of execution technique, it differs little from other plastering works, but a number of specific nuances should be taken into account, especially in the preparation of the solution. In general, such an event is quite accessible to any person, and can be carried out both using ready-made formulations and preparing a solution with your own hands.

Features of the problem

Why is it recommended to plaster a brick oven? In terms of increasing the reliability of the entire structure, it should be noted that the plastered brick is protected from the direct impact of aggressive bath factors (temperature drops, moisture, steam). The brickwork itself increases the strength and tightness of the joints. The binder is less prone to cracking. 2 important reason is to improve the appearance. After plastering, the stove has an even surface of the walls, which gives it neatness and makes it possible to create a certain interior.

Plaster brick oven has its own specific features. First of all, this is due to the high temperature on the walls during its operation. The plastered layer must withstand the following influences: prolonged heating and open flame, temperature extremes, mechanical influences, smoke and steam, oil splashes during cooking. As the oven heats up, the brickwork tends to expand significantly, and therefore the plaster mortar for ovens must have increased elasticity in order to withstand such loads without cracking.

One of the functions of the stove is to heat the room. This condition dictates another requirement for stove plaster - good thermal conductivity. If additional substantial energy is required to heat this layer, then the efficiency of the entire structure will be significantly reduced. In addition, when heated, the material used for plaster should not emit substances harmful to the human body.

The choice of the composition of the plaster

The question of how to plaster the brick oven walls is the most important when planning such an event. It should be said right away that the usual cement-sand mortar used for plastering the walls of a building is not suitable for stoves. It will just crack in a very short time. For plaster, you can use a ready-made mixture designed specifically for this purpose, or prepare it yourself, but according to a special recipe.

To solve the question of how to plaster, simple 2-3-component mixtures and complex compositions with additives of various ingredients (fiberglass, asbestos, salts, plasticizers, etc.) can be used. The composition of the mortar also depends on the type of brick used for the construction of the furnaces (chamotte, red brick, silicate varieties, etc.). Certain components added to the plaster increase its adhesion to the material.

If a decision is made to use ready-made materials, then you need to purchase an oven or fireplace plaster mixture. All the necessary ingredients have already been introduced into it, and preparation for application consists in diluting with water in the proportion indicated in the instructions. When using them, 1 nuance should be taken into account: their long-term storage is undesirable, since atmospheric moisture can lead to premature hardening of the mixture in the form of poorly soluble lumps.

Most often homemade solutions the following types are prepared for plastering ovens:

clay;
lime-clay;
lime-sandy-clayey,
lime-gypsum;
cement-sandy-clayey.

The practice of furnace construction shows that it is precisely such compositions that are least susceptible to cracking when heated. Other additives are added to improve the properties.

When preparing the solution, it is important to choose the correct proportions of the ingredients. Precisely selected composition allows easy and even application of a thin layer on the oven wall. In particular, a certain consistency of the composition is used as a grout. The viscosity of the solution is regulated by the proportions of water, the plasticity largely depends on the amount of sand, and the more there is, the less elasticity of the mass.

Recipe selection

The specific formulation of the plaster mortar depends on a number of these factors, and most often on the preferences of the performer himself, who determines the desired consistency by touch. The following standard mixtures can be distinguished (they are often used in the factory version):

Clay-sand mortar: clay (1 part) and sand (2 parts) with the addition of asbestos fiber (0.1 part).
Lime-clay composition: clay, lime and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 2 with the introduction of asbestos (0.1 part).
Lime-gypsum mixture: lime, gypsum and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1 with asbestos (0.2 parts).
Cement-clay mortar: cement and clay (1 part each), sand (2 parts), asbestos fiber (0.1 part).

In such solutions, clay provides plasticity of the composition, and asbestos is responsible for increased heat resistance. It should be noted that the fat content of clay is considered an important parameter; with its high value, the sand content can be increased. In particular, when preparing a clay-sand mixture, 3-4 parts of sand can be added to 1 part of high-fat clay. If you want to increase the strength characteristics of plaster for ovens, you can add salt at the rate of 20 g per 1 liter of mortar.

The sequence of preparation of the plaster mortar is, in principle, standard. First, dry components are mixed, which are pre-sifted through a sieve to remove impurities and lumps. Clay or lime is separately mixed with water to obtain a homogeneous milk. The dry mixture is gradually introduced into the solution with thorough mixing. The result should be a creamy composition. Use the prepared solution as soon as possible. This condition especially applies to a mixture based on gypsum, which can thicken in 7-8 minutes, and after 30-40 minutes becomes unusable.

Since ancient times, it has been accepted to plaster the stove with clay mixed with sand, straw, sawdust and the addition of salt. Such a mixture effectively coped with the task and provided the necessary elasticity when heated.

Required tool

When carrying out work on plastering the furnace on your own, you should prepare in advance the appropriate tool and containers for the solution:

trowel or plastering trowel;
falcon;
grater and half grater;
rule;
metal brush;
brush or brush to wet the surface;
construction mixer;
corner rail.

When preparing the solution, you will need a shovel, a scoop, a measuring container, a sieve, scales, a container for mixing ingredients. It is better to control surface leveling with a building level. For removing old plaster a chisel and a hammer may come in handy. A vacuum cleaner will help get rid of dust.

Process features

How to plaster a brick oven? The whole process can be divided into 3 stages: preparation of the surface of the oven walls, preparation of the solution and direct plastering. First of all, work should be carried out long before the active operation of the furnace, i.e. in summer. If you plan to plaster a recently made, new brick oven, then you must withstand a certain time until the masonry mortar is completely dry.

The preparatory activities are as follows:

complete removal of old plaster and mechanical cleaning of the surface using a metal brush;
dust and dirt removal;
processing the wall surface with emery cloth;
deepening of the joints between the bricks for flowing plaster mortar into them;
final removal of dust using a vacuum cleaner, while it is not recommended to use a wet cloth, since dirt with water can seep into the material.

The next stage is the preparation of the solution, since it must be mixed immediately before application. To prepare the plaster mass, a container of the required volume is used, and the mixing itself is best carried out using a construction mixer.

How to plaster a stove? Usually the following order of work is maintained:

A reinforcing layer is laid on the surface of the furnace walls. Burlap has long been used for this purpose, but nowadays, preference is given to metal or fiberglass mesh. As a rule, a mesh with a cell up to 1x1 cm is used. When using burlap, the fastening is done with clay, and the metal mesh is fixed with a wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm. The reinforcing layer must cover the entire furnace area.
Imposition of 1 layer with a solution of a more liquid consistency. The layer thickness is about 5 mm.
Application of 2 layers of solution with the consistency of thick sour cream. Its thickness is 10-15 mm. It is better to start plastering from the top.
Grouting and leveling plaster. This operation is carried out in a circular motion with a cloth coated with a liquid solution.
Particular attention should be paid to the formation of the corners. For a perfectly straight edge, it is recommended to use a wooden batten.
If cracks form after complete drying of the plaster, then re-grout using a wet cloth.
The plastered stove can be whitewashed or any other heat-resistant, decorative coating can be applied.

A separate stage is the plastering of the chimney. It is especially important here to take into account the high degree of heating, while the plaster, on the contrary, should have certain thermal insulation properties. Even higher demands are made for plastering the roof outlet pipe. On this element, the material is exposed to all external factorsincluding moisture and sunlight, as well as exposure to fuel combustion products (smoke). Brickwork in such conditions must be reliably protected from these influences.

Plastering a brick stove will help increase its durability and give it an attractive appearance. The process itself is not much different from any other plastering work, but the composition for the oven has its own specifics. Under these conditions, ordinary cement-sand mortar should not be used. The choice of the formulation of the plaster mixture is carried out taking into account special requirements in terms of long-term heat resistance.

How and what to plaster a brick oven

Brick plastering of a stove can significantly improve its appearance and increase its service life. In terms of execution technique, it differs little from other plastering works, but a number of specific nuances should be taken into account, especially in the preparation of the solution.

How to plaster a brick stove

Stoves and energy-based heating are quite common these days. These can be ultra-modern structures, lined with bricks with the latest chimneys, and old stoves in summer cottages and village houses. Like everything in this world, after operation, they need repair, which consists in eliminating cracks, smoothing irregularities, and giving a neat appearance. Plaster is the best option for solving all problems.

However, this process requires skills, knowledge of certain technologies and choices. correct materialwho need to plaster the surface of the oven. During the furnace, it heats up quite a lot, therefore it assumes a heat-resistant coating that will last a long time without cracking, chipping and other deformations.

How to make a mortar for plastering a stove

You should figure out what exactly you need to carry out the work. Normal cement mortar or gypsum plaster, which is used to process walls made of brick or drywall and ceilings in rooms, are absolutely unsuitable for such work.

Long years of use stove heatinghelped to create the most correct mix used to plaster heating surfaces.

The composition in them is almost the same, however, different proportions. Combine sand and clay in equal quantities and add a little asbestos to the mixture (about 5% of the total amount of plaster material). Such a composition is very affordable and budgetary, but the lack of a fixer makes it short-lived. After several months of use, the stove may become covered with small cracks.

Sand, clay, and lime. Sand needs two parts, and the remaining components one at a time. Exactly extinguished lime adds the necessary strength to the mixture and does not allow it to collapse for quite a long time.

Also very popular is a solution mixed with cement (2 parts), but also with the addition of sand, clay (one part, respectively) and asbestos (as in the first option, about 5%). It is the presence of cement that makes the surface durable, it fits perfectly on the brick surface and avoids frequent repairs.

The most costly, but at the same time durable, will be a composition that includes sand, clay, slaked lime and a little fiberglass in equal parts. It will connect particles of bulk materials together, prevent them from crumbling and delaminating in the finished plaster.

In addition, in hardware stores they sell ready-made mixtures intended for plastering brickwork, amenable to high temperatures. Often, all the same components are included as in the hand-made one, but the proportions have already been selected there. All it takes is just adding water to it. It is worth noting that some mixtures intended for working with furnaces turn to stone over time. Don't use them. It is very difficult to break the hardened substance even into separate small pieces, and it is even more difficult to soak.

The tool you need to work

In order to plaster the stove, in addition to mortar, some construction tools are required, the use of which will greatly facilitate and speed up the process:

plastering trowel or trowel;
falcon (this device is used as a kind of reservoir for solution, it has sides, it allows you not to bend over to the main container every time);
a grater and a half-grater, differing in size, and have slightly different functions - with a half-grater, fresh plaster is leveled, corners are taken away, they smooth out irregularities and sagging, and give the surface a neat appearance. The grater is smaller, it is intended for finishing works;
a metal brush, required for preparatory work;
a rule - with its help, the solution is leveled and checked how evenly it is applied, the level is controlled. The rule may be a regular wooden lath or an improved light metal tool with a beveled side;
wide brush, which is convenient for wetting the surface of the oven, for better grip.

Work technology

Before plastering the stove, you need to prepare it in advance. For this, the leftovers are removed old finish, all impurities are removed. With the help of special tools, notches are made (bush hammer, trojans, cogs).

This will prevent large pieces of plaster from peeling off later.

Also, for this purpose, you can use burlap or fine metal mesh. You can fix them on the wall of the stove, you can in an accessible way, subsequently, when the time comes to plaster, all flaws will be eliminated, the main thing is to achieve good adhesion. However, when using burlap, you should not heat the stove too much, so as not to provoke a smoldering layer. Also, when fixing it, you need to try to level it as efficiently as possible, removing all air bubbles.

It is necessary to apply the solution according to its plasticity. If it is thick enough, it is thrown into the right place with a plaster trowel. With a more liquid consistency, a falcon is used. You need to collect a small amount of solution into it, and press it tightly against the wall, turning it over with the back side, spread it on the stove. An important nuance, at the same time, is the observance of the same pressure force so that the plaster has the same thickness.

The applied solution must be leveled with a rule or small. In the second option, you must initially set up beacons that will serve as a guide.

Experienced stove-makers advise not to apply one thick layer of mortar, but to do the work in several passes. So, the surface of the oven will be as reliable as possible for a long time. In order for the plaster to dry faster, it can be dried with special devices, turbines or even a household heater. The next layer can be applied no earlier than after three to four hours. It is not recommended to use a new solution or change its composition. If the consistency and composition are different, this will lead to a different fat content and structure of the mixture, later this manifests itself in stratification.

When the plaster dries, it must be rubbed, smoothing out roughness and unevenness. This is done grater, first in a circular motion (counterclockwise). Tool movement must be continuous. When a bump appears in the path, you should press on it a little harder to smooth it out. The recesses are filled during the grouting process. In order that there are no concentrated circles and traces of monotonous movements on the stove, the plaster should also be wiped off.

Possible problems and how to fix them

If the work is done incorrectly, defects and flaws appear, which are noticeable even with the naked eye. To avoid them, you should figure out what types of flaws there are.

If unslaked lime was used for the solution, it reacts with other components during the mixing process. This leads to the formation of bubbles with the finest surface on the surface of the plaster. After drying, they burst, you just have to touch them slightly, and a speck remains on the wall. If such a problem still occurs, such a place must be covered with a thin layer of solution, and then wiped again.

When the oven surface has not been pre-moistened, the plaster delaminates. The same happens if you overdry the previous layer, this will not allow the solution to adhere properly to each other.

It often happens that a newly plastered brick oven is all covered with cracks. This misunderstanding occurs for a number of reasons:

insufficiently mixed solution, with a high content of oily clay;
applying the solution to a wet layer;
applying a very thick layer of plaster;
fast drying of the solution.

Brick stove plastering: how and what to plaster a brick stove

After operation, the furnaces need repair, which consists in eliminating cracks, smoothing irregularities, and giving a neat appearance.

Step-by-step instructions for high-quality plastering of a brick oven with a photo

Many owners of private houses increasingly prefer such types of heating as gas or steam, and if there is central heating in the village, it is easier for some to connect to the heating network. However, in many houses, the stove heating method is retained - both as the main source of heat and as an auxiliary one. Often the choice in favor of a conventional stove is associated with economic considerations - the best brick stove will cost less than laying a distribution pipe to connect to central heating.

The stove is a fairly voluminous structure, it is almost impossible to make it invisible. Most often, red brick is used for masonry, which does not always look harmonious in the room. Therefore, the owners make an effort to ensure that the stove fits into the interior and looks neat. Often the finishing of the stove is done with plaster.

However, many are faced with such a problem - after a few years, the plaster from the brick oven begins to crumble. In fact, this can be avoided, the main thing is to correctly perform the plastering work.

Preparing a room for plastering a brick oven

In fact, even a home craftsman who has no experience in similar work can do a high-quality plaster of a brick oven. It is important to be careful about the process and use quality materials, then the stove will retain its presentable appearance for a long time.

Before plastering the stove, you need to prepare the room. To do this, you need to free up space for work - all unnecessary items from the room must be taken out. Furniture should also be removed from the room if possible. If you cannot do this, then you need to cover it with a thick cloth. To protect against debris, dust and damage, windows, walls and floors - these surfaces should be covered with plastic.

About materials and tools

Learn how to plaster a brick stove and prepare everything necessary tools and materials you need in advance. You will need a set of tools, including:

trowel or trowel;
grater;
a hammer;
chisel or spatula;
nippers and pliers (they can be replaced with pliers);
spray - it is needed to wet the surface with water (if it is not there, a paint brush will do);
scissors for metal and fabric scissors;
coarse sieve - for sifting sand and / or clay;
a container for a solution and a separate one for water;
scoop for plaster mixture (or its components);
broom or vacuum cleaner.

The list of materials for plastering the stove includes the actual mortar for plastering the stove, a reinforcing mesh with 10 x 10 mm cells (you can do with burlap), lime (or water-based paint), as well as a cement mortar (it will be needed to fix the wire - including case when it comes to old oven).

Surface preparation

Before starting the plastering work, be sure to prepare the surface of the oven. This will make the mortar easier to apply and the finish will look better and last longer.

If we are talking about an old oven, then you will need to prepare the surface according to the following scheme:

Cleaning the oven surface from old plaster. This can be done with a spatula or chisel.
The surface is rubbed with sandpaper - this will help to eliminate minor irregularities.
The resulting debris and dust must be removed with a vacuum cleaner or dry cloth.

In the case when you need to plaster a freshly laid oven, such work should begin about a month after the completion of the brickwork. This period is enough for the mortar used for masonry to dry out, harden and gain strength. Before starting work, you need to clear the joints between the bricks that make up the stove to a depth of about 0.5 cm - this will help the plaster mortar better lie on the masonry.

Plaster mortars

Today it is possible to choose between buying a ready-made dry mix for plastering a stove or preparing a solution on your own according to proven "folk" recipes. For achievement quality result it is required to carefully observe the ratio of dry components and water, which must be either tap or technical (neither lake nor river can be taken for the solution).

Depending on the purpose of the room and its humidity, the mode of its use, the planned method of exterior decoration, as well as the climate in the region, the owner must decide how to plaster his stove.

How to prepare the “right” solution? The classic recipe includes clay and sand. If it is planned to paint the stove white, then lime can be added - it must be slaked. To increase the strength of the solution, you can add crushed asbestos or fiberglass.

The composition of the mortar for plastering the oven may vary. The table shows the main popular options:

To determine the correct ratio, you need to prepare a portion of the sample solution and apply it to the surface - a small area. If the mortar dries out, the plastered area is covered with cracks, then there is not enough sand and you need to add more. If the solution crumbled, this indicates that there is not enough clay in its composition.

Solution preparation rules

In order to achieve good results, close attention must be paid to the process of preparing the solution itself. In this case, it is required to observe a number of simple rules, not only at the time of mixing the plaster mixture, but also during the preparation of the components.

clean up debris;
place for soaking in water for several days;
filter the resulting gruel through a coarse sieve.

Lime (work on the preparation of this material is carried out only on the street):

pour pieces of lime into a bucket (it should only be metal) - no more than half of the bucket's volume;
pour water (no more than 0.6 bucket volume);
let the solution cool for a day;
drain the solution;
pass the lime slurry through a coarse sieve.

Sand also needs to be sieved, asbestos or fiberglass - thoroughly crushed.

To prepare a high quality solution, you need to reproduce the following sequence of actions:

Sifted sand is added to the prepared clay.
The remaining constituents of the solution are added (for example, fiberglass).
The solution is thoroughly mixed. This can be done using a drill, a construction mixer, or a hammer drill with a special attachment.

A quality solution should not contain solid particles or lumps, it looks homogeneous and plastic.

There are a number of nuances associated with the shelf life and use, depending on which solution it was decided to use:

If gypsum was used as a base, such a solution hardens very quickly. It must be prepared in small portions, which must be immediately applied to the oven;

The prepared mortar with a cement base should be used within an hour after it has been diluted with water;

A clay-based mixture can be prepared in advance. It can be stored for a long time, provided the container is sealed.

Step-by-step instructions for plastering the oven

After everyone is prepared necessary materials and a set of tools, you can start the process of plastering the oven with your own hands. Plastering a brick stove can be performed according to a simple scheme, consisting of five basic steps:

Sackcloth. The material must be cut and soaked in a solution of liquid clay. After that, it must be distributed over the oven: the laying process is carried out in the direction from top to bottom, the overlap should be about 50 mm. If such material is used for reinforcement, the furnace must be protected from overheating during operation;

Plastering. The mortar is applied from top to bottom, each layer should be even - its thickness should not be more than 5 mm. After the solution has set, it should be rubbed, performing circular movements with a float. If the plaster has hardened too much, it can be moistened with water. Some home craftsmen recommend, at the end of the application of the plaster solution, to smooth it with a rag (it must first be moistened in the same solution).

After finishing applying the plaster, it must be allowed to dry. If cracks appear, they can be widened with an ordinary knife, then moistened with water and covered with a solution (if a clay-based solution was used, for this purpose, you can use the remains of plaster, which can be stored in an airtight container).

Exterior finishing works

To ensure that the stove looks good indoors, additional finishing can be done after the plastering is completed:

painting with water-based paint;
chalk whitewashing;
coating with lime milk (you need to add a little salt to it, at the rate of 0.1 kg per 100 liters of solution);
decorative plaster for stoves (a wide range of compounds can be found in hardware stores).

Plastering the stove from irpich - step by step instructions

High-quality brick oven plaster is within the power of even a home craftsman who does not have experience in similar work. It's important to be careful about the process.

How to plaster a stove so that it does not crack

How to plaster the stove so that it does not crack during everyday use? This question arises for those home owners who have just acquired this heating device, and in those cases when it is time to repair a long-built stove.

How to plaster a stove so that it does not crack

It should be noted that cracking most often occurs when violations are made in the technology of the plastering process or in the preparation of the surface for finishing, as well as due to improper preparation of the solution.

For plastering the brick walls of the furnace, traditional sand-clay mortars and professionally prepared plaster mixes are used, which can be bought today in any building or specialized store.

Ready-made plaster mix for ovens

But whatever type of plaster is chosen, it must meet certain requirements, such as heat resistance, high adhesion and an adequate response to the expansion of the wall material when heated.

Why plaster the oven at all?

In what cases and why are stoves plastered? The answer to this question is no less important than the first one, since having learned it, one can understand whether it is worth carrying out this process at all, or you can leave the stove without finishing, or decorate its walls with ceramic or fireclay tiles.

Plastered and whitewashed Russian stove

The reasons that require finishing the walls with plaster include:

If the stove is old and had already been plastered before, but for some reason the finish cracked and began to fall off, and sloppy masonry was found under it.
If the stove is old and there is a risk of cracking of the mortar in the joints and penetration carbon monoxide into the room.
If there is a need to transform this structure, to make it neat and aesthetically pleasing, for example, when updating the entire interior and changing the style of its design.
Over time, various insects can take root in the seams between the rows of bricks, especially if the laying was done on natural materials. Timely processing and plastering will help prevent their appearance.
If the stove has just been erected, but the masonry was done carelessly, without joining, and the structure does not look aesthetically pleasing, it is plaster that will help fix this situation.

The advantage of plaster over other finishing materials:

It should be noted that plastering the stove is the most affordable and simple way to tidy the stove surfaces.
Choosing plaster for wall decoration, you can save a lot, since the price for ceramic tiles or stove tiles is several orders of magnitude higher than for plaster mix.
Plastering can be applied to any of existing species ovens, both for the restoration of the old oven, and for finishing the newly built one.
The plaster increases the thickness of the wall, which increases the thermal capacity of the building and leads to fuel savings as the oven cools down longer.
Plaster increases the level of fire safety and reduces the possibility of carbon monoxide penetration into the room.
The plastered surface can be coated with water-based paint, whitewash or decorative plasters.

Tools for the job

The quality of the plaster application and its ideal distribution on the surface of the oven walls directly affects the adhesion of materials and the durability. To make the plastering process easy and bring the expected result, you need to carry it out with high-quality tools, which include:

Plastering tools

Spatulas - from medium for taking a solution from a container, to a wide one used for applying it to the wall.
Plaster hammer used to drive plaster nails.
A trowel (trowel) for applying and distributing mortar on the oven walls.
Cam hammer used for chisel, triple and cogwheel applications.
Conventional scissors for cutting fiberglass mesh. If the walls are covered with a netting, then metal scissors will also be required.
Grater and half grater. These tools are used to level and smooth the plastered surfaces.
The trowel is used to bring the surface to perfect smoothness.
Chisel. With this tool, notches are made on the surface of the oven walls for better adhesion of materials.
Brushes of different sizes for applying primers, and when using some techniques - for the plaster itself, and for giving it a textured surface, if provided.
Brush with metal bristles - for cleaning surfaces and joints, when removing old plaster.
Building level to check the vertical and horizontal planes.
A plumb line is used to control the evenness of walls and applied plaster.
The rule helps to align the plaster applied to the walls with the beacons installed on them.

Types of plaster solutions

As you know, the oven is subject to constant temperature fluctuations, so the plaster layer must be resistant to this phenomenon. Composing the solution yourself and choosing the proportions of materials, this must be taken into account.

The most important point is the composition of the plaster solution

Plaster mixes are simple and complex:

Compositions consisting of two ingredients - clay and sand are called simple.
Complex solutions are those that have more than two components in their composition.

Some of the materials must be prepared before making the mixture by cleaning them from various impurities:

The sand should be sieved through a fine sieve.
Clay is also rubbed through a fine metal mesh, turning it into powder and freeing it from plant roots and small stones.

The clay for the preparation of the plaster mixture is chosen rather oily, since this quality will directly affect the adhesion of the plaster and the wall. In the event that excessive clay is noticeable, a little more sand can be added to the solution.

Before mixing the solution, the clay is soaked, stirring with water. Further, it is left for several hours. If during this time it has absorbed all the water, then the liquids are added more, and so on until the water covers the clay from above by 100 ÷ 150 mm. After that, the mixture is mixed - it should have the consistency of thick sour cream and have good plasticity.

Asbestos, which is added to the solution, plays the role of a reinforcing component. Instead of asbestos, hemp, finely chopped straw, or shredded fiberglass (microfiber) can be used.

It should be noted that it is better to choose natural, environmentally friendly materials for plastering compounds that, when heated, will not emit harmful vapors that are unsafe for the health of the residents of the house.

Some masters add salt to the solution and this is explained by the fact that it makes the solution stronger. However, this is not quite true. Salt does not strengthen the clay, but it increases its hygroscopicity, which makes it more plastic, preventing it from drying out, so the plaster cracks less. In addition, various insects do not start in salty plaster, which is also very important for a private house.

The table below lists several recipes for plastering solutions for ovens.

Separately, it must be said about such material as gypsum, which is one of the components of some plaster solutions. For example, in mix # 4, it is used instead of cement as a binder. Gypsum hardens very quickly, its setting occurs almost immediately after application to the wall, and after 10-15 minutes the plaster layer with its use will already harden.

This construction material often used together with lime, as it gives the mortar strength and promotes rapid drying. But, choosing a solution with the addition of gypsum, you need to take into account its properties and prepare small portions of the mixture, otherwise it will harden and be unsuitable for work. It will definitely not be possible to extend its "life" even for a little while by diluting it with water.

We plaster the oven with our own hands

Preparatory work

Plastering will not be of high quality if the surface of the oven walls is not well prepared for the application of the finishing material. Therefore, the first step is made preparatory workthat will create good conditions for adhesion of plaster mortar.

If an old stove or fireplace is put in order, then its surface must be freed from the plaster on it, knocking it down manually with a chisel and hammer. After the walls are freed from the old layer, they are well cleaned of dust - this process is carried out with an iron and ordinary brush.
The fresh masonry of the stove must also be cleaned, since remnants of masonry material can linger on the bricks, which will reduce adhesion, which will lead to the lagging of the plaster from the wall.
Further, there is a deepening of the seams, and this is carried out both for the new stove and for the restored one. The dry mortar from the joints is selected by 5 ÷ 10 mm. Then the seams are well cleaned of dust.
After cleaning, the walls are well primed, and it is imperative to cover the buried seams with a primer with a thin brush.

Applying a primer to the oven walls

Sometimes it is necessary to apply several layers of plaster - this is necessary if the walls of the stove are very uneven. This method of plastering requires additional strengthening of the surface with a metal or fiberglass mesh with cells of 15 ÷ 20 mm. Reinforcement will fix the plaster well on the walls, making it less vulnerable to temperature extremes. In addition, a thicker layer will increase the heat capacity of the oven. Metal grid fixed to the surface using wide-headed nails that are driven into the seams between the bricks.

Reinforcing mesh on the furnace surface

The fiberglass mesh is immersed in the mixture carried on the wall, or the solution is applied to the mesh from above, leveling it. Fiberglass is mainly used if the surface is sufficiently flat.

Using fiberglass mesh

To maintain or restore the evenness of the corners of the furnace, steel or perforated aluminum corners are mounted on them on the adhesive mass.

Metal profiles help you to accurately draw corners

In order to achieve the evenness of the wall with large differences, beacons are placed on top of the reinforcing mesh from metal profilesfixed to the surface plaster mixthat dries quickly, which practically does not slow down the work. If time suffers, then the beacons can be put on the clay solution. But this method is possible if the mesh is close to the wall.

If necessary, a sufficiently thick layer of plaster is installed guide-beacons

The walls of the stove can be leveled to perfect smoothness for whitewashing or painting, or the surface can be left even, but rough, to cover it with decorative embossed plaster. It should be noted that under masonry ceramic tiles or decorative plaster, it is recommended to apply a not too thick preparatory finishing layer.

There are various ready-made formulations or additives that help mimic a natural stone different breeds... In this case, the surface of the furnace, with the correct composition of the solution, will be impossible to distinguish from natural material.

Preparation of plaster mix

A mortar made up in the correct proportion and well mixed is one of the factors on which the quality plastering of the stove depends. To mix the mixture, you will need a drill and a mixer attachment.

Mixing the solution with a mixer nozzle

Before starting cooking, you need to consider some points:

Soaked clay, if used in a solution, should swell for at least two to three days. If, after standing this time, it continues to absorb water, then it is not ready for kneading and should, by adding more water to it, leave it to swell for a while.
The sand added to the solution must not only be sieved, but also dried - this will help in maintaining the correct proportions when mixing.
Lime will be a good plasticizer for the solution - its viscosity will make the mixture more adhesive. In addition, it will help the solution to grab quickly enough, which will shorten the work period. In principle, it is recommended to add a small amount of it to mixtures consisting of any ingredients.
The most suitable cement grade is M400. It begins to solidify 17 ÷ 20 minutes after mixing, sets after 3.5 ÷ 4 hours, and its final solidification and strength gain occurs after two ÷ three days.

In hardware stores, you can look for both high-quality clay and ready-made mixtures.

If a ready-made dry mixture is purchased, then it is not difficult to prepare it:

Into a clean container, suitable size water is poured.
Then powder is poured into the container, the proportions of which in relation to water are indicated on the package.
The solution is mixed with a mixer until a homogeneous mass is formed without lumps and dry inclusions.
The solution is kept for 7 ÷ 10 minutes, then mixed again, and after that it is ready for use.

If for plastering the mortar will be prepared independently, using traditional materials, then the process is carried out as follows:

The required amount of clay mass is placed in the container. Dry sand, slaked lime and cement are added to it in accordance with the indicated proportions.
The mixture is mixed with a mixer until smooth. If necessary, a small amount of water is added to the solution during the mixing process.

This solution is applied immediately, since the cement with lime sets quickly enough.

Plastering process

As mentioned above, the plastering process can take place different ways, some of them will be discussed below.

The first way

This method is used if there are large distortions on the surface, and it requires cardinal leveling by applying a layer with a thickness of 50 to 80 mm.

In this version, the leveling beacons are fixed first. They are exhibited at the building level, achieving perfect evenness.

After that, the oven is heated until warm.
Further, the entire surface of the oven is wetted with water using a wide brush or roller. The water will nail down dust particles and dry mortar in the joints.
After that, the walls are primed. The primer layer should dry to form a layer that will promote adhesion of the surface and the materials being applied.

Sketching the solution, or "splashing"

Further, by means of “spraying” (sketching) the first plaster layer is applied, which should not be thicker than 4 ÷ 5 mm. The solution for this layer should have a sour cream consistency of medium liquid. The mixture is applied with accented movements, since the solution must get into the seams between the masonry rows. After completing the sketch, the solution is allowed to dry well.
After it dries, the next layer is applied, which should protrude above the installed beacons by 8 ÷ 10 mm. The solution is applied from the bottom of the wall, approximately 400 ÷ 500 mm, and is immediately leveled with a rule that leads along the lighthouses. Further, the mortar is poured onto the next section and leveled again, and so on, until the entire surface is covered with a leveling plaster layer.

Leveling plaster on beacons

While the mixture is still wet, the grout is gently passed over it, grinding the surface.

Stove-makers have one secret that contributes to uniform drying of the plaster layer, which reduces the risk of cracks on its surface. The entire oven, after applying a solution to it and grinding, is covered with a damp burlap. If it dries quickly, it is moistened one or two more times.

When the surface dries, the mat is removed, and if cracks are found, they are immediately rubbed and smoothed with a rubber-coated trowel.

The third layer - "cover", is smoothing, so the solution for it is made quite liquid and applied with a thickness of only 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. This layer is applied in the event that the surface of the oven will be covered with paint or whitewash.
Difficulty always arises when removing corners, even if they are reinforced with metal corners. The easiest way to apply the mortar to them evenly and to level them well is to use an angled trowel.

Easier work with an angled spatula at hand

Some masters use anchoring to derive a corner wooden slats on one side of it, and after the applied solution has dried, the rail is transferred to the other side of the corner, and the mixture is applied to the one where the guide was installed earlier.

It is recommended to round off the very edge of the corner, which can be achieved using an angled spatula. This must be done, first of all, for the safety of young children living in the house. Also, a rounded corner is less prone to chipping, for example, during repairs and furniture movement.

Second way

When using this method of putting the stove in order, a metal mesh-chain-link is used, which reinforces the surface of the stove and sets the thickness of the plaster coating.

Plastering using a chain-link mesh

With a metal mesh and level the surface, pushing it away from the wall in the right places at a distance of up to 25 mm. For rigidity, a wire is placed under it, which can be hooked onto the mesh itself or metal slats.

In this method, the plaster mixture is also applied in several layers until the mesh is completely closed under it.

Finishing with the use of such a reinforcement turns out to be more durable and reliably fixed to the surface.

The first layer is also applied by the "spray" method - the solution must pass through the mesh and fix well on the wall. Sprayed into this surface, the walls are left to dry. After they dry, the mesh will become motionless, and it will be easy to apply the next leveling layers of the solution on it.
After leveling and drying the upper, last layer, the cracks formed are smeared and rubbed over.
The next step is the installation of decorative coating.

Third way

The third method of plastering is used if the walls of the stove are sufficiently flat and they only need to be "refreshed" a little.

Thin layer plastering

The solution for this method is applied in one or two layers with a thickness of no more than 2 ÷ 3 mm.

The wall is also prepared and primed.
Then, if necessary, thin metal rail-guides are fixed on it, which will help to navigate in the thickness of the layer. Reiki may not be used if the surface is flat and not necessary.
With this finishing method, it is best to use a solution with the addition of chamotte clay and crushed asbestos, which will play the role of a reinforcing component.
The mixture is applied, starting from the bottom of the oven, with a wide spatula, and immediately leveled with a rule on metal slats. If beacons are not used, then the solution is smoothed, focusing only on the evenness of the surface.
In this case, the corners are also removed using an angled spatula.
When the walls of the oven are completely covered with mortar, they are carefully leveled without pressure with a grout.

It is good to lay ceramic or fireclay tiles on such a finish, as well as apply decorative embossed plaster.

Furnace decoration

The stove can be decorated to any taste. If the plaster turned out to be even, then the oven can be covered with whitewash - this method can be called traditional, since it has been used for a long time. The whitewash was often painted with water-based paints, which gave the room a distinctive character and emphasized national traditions. Most often, ornaments were chosen that were characteristic of the area where the building is located.

Plastered stove can be decorated with simple ornaments or decorative tiles

Today, with the advent of new technologies and materials, the stove is often decorated with plasters capable of creating patterns on the surface that imitate one of the rocks of the stone or a homogeneous relief structure.

There are other elements of volumetric drawings - in this case, everything will depend on the imagination of the master. To create them, improvised items are often used, for example, plastic wrap, a brush, a brush, a net for cleaning dishes and other materials or accessories.

Various techniques for embossing plaster

If you have a penchant for creativity, you can create relief compositions from decorative plaster that protrude beyond the walls of the furnace even by 7 ÷ 10 mm, and then cover them with coloring compositions. The application of paints takes place on damp decorative plaster - then they are well absorbed into its surface and become more durable. After the entire surface has dried, staining can be carried out one more time.

Heat-resistant ceramic tiles are often placed around the entire oven.

In addition to decorative plaster, the stove is often decorated with terracotta or ceramic tiles. The availability of corner trim elements on sale greatly simplifies its installation and makes it possible to make the corners and all surfaces neat and aesthetic. The tile is mounted on a special cement-based adhesive, which has the ability to withstand the effects of temperature changes.

What should be considered when starting plastering and finishing?

When plastering the stove, you need to take into account some points that can affect the quality of the work performed.

Do not apply plaster to the newly erected oven structure. A "fresh" stove must not only be well dried, but also go through stages of shrinkage. To do this, it is operated for two to three months, and only after this period, you can start finishing work.

For painting the plastered surface, only water-based paints can be used. Other coloring compounds containing drying oil or organic solvents will emit harmful substances and unpleasant odors into the living space when the furnace is fired.

For all plastering work and decorative design ovens are recommended to use materials on a natural basis, without any synthetic additives unfavorable to human health.

It should be noted that all the methods mentioned in the article are not as easy to implement as it seems at first glance. Therefore, in the absence of experience in this work, you should not take risks and translate enough, at times, expensive materials. It is better to entrust the conduct of these important events to real professionals, not by hearsay knowing secrets masonry and subsequent finishing of the stove.

How to plaster a stove so that it does not crack - the nuances of technology

How to plaster the stove so that it does not crack and does not lose its attractive appearance during use? There are several methods of plastering and finishing.

Each of us can equip a small, but real bathhouse on our site, which would allow us to take all the basic bath procedures in fairly comfortable conditions. Knowing the advantages, features and inevitable disadvantages of the walls in the bath from various materials, you will be able to create a building of an original design that best suits your wishes. There is unlimited scope for your creativity, but subject to specific conditions and all possible options.

Let's talk about walls - the most important structural element of buildings.

The most traditional and popular is the wooden sauna.

Log walls

The logs, as they say - "breathe", and therefore log bath requires almost no ventilation. It happens by itself, as it penetrates through the walls of logs and goes out required amount air. But still, perfumes for ventilation in the bathhouse need to be made in order to quickly cool it after washing. Thanks to the logs, the humidity in the room is also automatically adjusted. Therefore, the vapor barrier of the construction of the bath from them can be minimal. But the tree is fire hazardous, so before you treat the partitions in the bath with any insulating material, saturate them with a fire retardant.

Tree trunks should be seasoned, straight. Such material, after laying, ensures tight joining. Best breeds Are spruce and pine of the northern regions. But this is not critical. Good for a bath, for example, and linden. The wood must have a specific scent of resin. But pay attention - there should be as few resin pockets as possible in the body of the log, which can flow in a hot atmosphere, and knots.

The ends of the trunks from the butt on the inside are cut to a size equal to the diameter of the top. Work must be done from the top to the butt - so there will be no scoring. In the process of laying a log house, a thin one is placed at the thick end of the log.

Joining of logs at the corners can be done by different methods, if only the strength of the structure is ensured to the proper extent. For walls made of circular sawn timber, the cuts in the corners are made "in a cup", "in a flash" or "in a paw". A "paw" log house is made from trunks of the same thickness.

At the ends, paws are marked according to a template, their size depends on the diameter of the trunks. The lower crown is not constrained. Remember: you need to use the highest quality material for it. When sampling, the cup is cut out from the bottom side.

For greater strength, crowns are connected along the length of the logs with spikes every 1.5 m, in the last pair of crowns more often - ceiling beams are mounted between them. The diameter of the thorns is 2.5 cm, the height is 12-15 cm. The nests for them are drilled 2-3 cm deeper.

Thermal insulation of the structure outside the bath, between the logs or a bar is made with tow, moss or felt. After the construction of the structure, the insulation is compacted - bled. Caulking should be done twice - this is how to properly insulate the walls of the bath. The first time this is done after the end of the work, and the second - after 1 year, after the shrinkage stops.

The first crown of the building is the first two (lower) logs and the second two (upper). First, a pair of first logs are placed exactly horizontally on opposite sides at the same distance from each other. Then two second trunks are placed on them at an angle of 90 degrees and they begin to cut the corner joints into the cup. The trunks of the second crown are placed with their ends in opposite directions.

Timber walls

This material is more convenient for the walls of the bath.
If you have sufficient funds, you can purchase ready-made, industrially produced profiled beams or planed beams of natural moisture. If not, you'll have to cook it yourself. The bars are made from logs by sawing the trunks into four edges. The cross-section of the product is 15x15 cm. In the corners, the timber is also cut into the paw, “into the paw”, etc. To increase the strength, insert or root spikes are used, placing them vertically.

When installing a log house, the timber is laid one above the other. Thermal insulation of the walls of a bath made of this lumber is performed using felt - it is laid between the bars. So that the bars of the lowest crown do not collapse, a board is placed under them, the thickness of which is 4-5 cm, width 20-30 cm. In order for such an insulation of the bath to be maintained at the proper level, the board is impregnated with an antiseptic or covered with bitumen mastic. Then it is wrapped in two layers of roofing felt and laid on any waterproofing. The insulation of the walls of the bath must be reliable - an insulating material is laid on the lining, and a crown is already mounted on it. The bottom from the crown is straight or planed or trimmed - this gives a snug fit of the material to the lining. A second crown is placed on the flap, and on it the next ones, not forgetting to lay between the grooves of the timber, which serves as a heater for such walls in the bath, felt material. To remove atmospheric moisture from the bottom of the walls, a groove is made in the second crown, into which the roofing sheet is inserted, calculating that its width allows the drain to hang over the plinth by about 5 cm.

Frame baths

The most economical of all types of walls are frame walls. They need 2 times less wood than log and cobbled ones.

The most dangerous enemy of frame-type walls is moisture inside structural cavities. Therefore, to protect the frame and the insulation inside it from destructive moisture, vapor barrier of all walls of such baths is required from inside the premises. It is arranged using either traditional materials - roofing material, glassine, or you can buy modern polymer vapor barrier products - special films based on polyethylene, polyester, etc. It is also used to insulate the insulation and the walls of the bath with aluminum foil. These materials are placed on top of the construction insulation frame bath and secured either with small studs or with a stapler.

The walls of such baths themselves are hard wooden frame, which is mounted on the foundation and sewn up from both sides with boards. Inside, the space is filled with insulation. The most suitable insulation for the walls of a frame-type bath is fiberglass or mineral wool. Structures are knocked down from pre-made frames, which consist of racks, crossbars and straps. It is very good if each wall consists of a separate frame.

The installation of frame walls should begin with the arrangement of a basement strapping, consisting of boards with parameters 5-10 cm. The strapping boards are placed with an outer edge along the outer wall contour and spliced \u200b\u200bwith nails in the corners, and, if necessary, connected at the joints in half a tree. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the length of the joints is twice the thickness of the board. All such connections of the basement piping are made on supports.

The planks of the basement strapping are mounted exactly horizontally when arranging the walls of the frame bath. In case of small deviations, they are corrected by gaskets of several layers of roofing tar or wedges of different thickness. The horizontal position should be checked as often as possible with a bubble level. The correctness of the strapping rectangle is checked by measuring its diagonals.

The distance in the frames for the frame between the axes of the posts should be 60 cm.If it is necessary to equip wall openings, as well as at the points of abutment to other walls or partitions, this indicator may vary, but not more than 1 m.

Where the door and window openings will be located, the spacing of the racks should be determined by the parameters of the windows and doors boxes. If necessary, you can add window and overhead racks. At the points of abutment of the walls with each other, a rack is also equipped. All racks, straps and crossbars are spliced \u200b\u200bwith nails. The harness is nailed only over the posts.

The assembly of the walls of frame baths begins with the formation of one corner. One of the frames is placed on the basement strapping and, after checking the vertical line with a plumb line, it is temporarily fixed. Then the next frame is mounted at an angle of 90 degrees and with the same operations. For good stability, the lower and upper strapping of already installed frames are connected with boards in the corner of the abutment.

After the installation of all frames, the correctness of their vertical position and the horizontalness of the upper strapping are checked for the last time. Then the structures are attached to the basement strapping and nailed to each other. Then, the same is done with the lower frame strapping and the same basement strapping.

The wall cladding of a frame-type bath is made from available materials. The outer walls can also be plastered, in addition to strength, this is also given by their insulation outside the bath. For this purpose, an oblique stitching of chopped boards is stuffed onto the frame - this gives the light walls the necessary rigidity. Plaster shit is already being stuffed along the sewing.

But most often the outside frame of the baths is sheathed with spruce or pine boards. They must be beaten horizontally, thus providing additional rigidity to the building. In this case, it will be useful to impregnate the walls of the bath with special anti-combustible compounds. They drastically reduce the fire's ability to burn. Many of these mixtures also have antifungal and antiseptic properties. You can use different variations of the board joint. Remember that when packing end-to-end, additional waterproofing of the walls of the bath must be done. This is a layer of roofing felt or roofing felt, which is placed under the boards. Between the inner and outer skin, the walls of the frame bath are insulated - this gap is filled with mineral wool or fiberglass. To prevent decay, it is good to cover the outer walls with linseed oil, primer or paint. Interior decoration bath structures should not contain paints and varnish. During the heating of the bath, these materials release a lot harmful substancesand besides that, the paints are vapor-proof.

Brick baths

Brick or block baths are much more durable than wooden ones and, equally important, they are not fire hazardous. But the brick has a high thermal conductivity, so the room heats up more slowly. To reduce its thermal conductivity helps to finish inside the bath with clapboard. At the same time, the walls are insulated at the same time. brick bath - a layer of heat-insulating material is laid between the lining strips and the wall. We will tell you a little later what material to make such insulation of a brick bath.

Make brickwork in one and a half, or better in two bricks. Place partitions in 1/4 or 1/2 brick.
Place plinths above the level of waterproofing from hollow bricks - this is best material for the bottom of the walls of the baths. The walls themselves are made of silicate or red bricks.

The strength of the masonry, in addition to the quality of building materials, depends on the correctness of all your actions. Connect each new row of bricks with the bottom row with a horizontal seam 1.2 cm thick, bricks in one row - with butt joints 1 cm thick. Depending on the position of the bricks, rows are distinguished: butt, spoon and from butts placed on the edge. To prevent the masonry from stratifying, it is necessary to bandage the seams. In addition, it helps to distribute the load evenly. With a single-row type of dressing of the seams, it is necessary to alternate the butt (brick across) and spoon (brick along) rows. With a multi-row - the rows of the spoon type are tied with a butt stitch every 5 rows.

Rows of masonry from pokes placed on the edge should only be made as the upper protrusion of the walls. In order for the hitch to be of high quality, you need to adhere to the same dimensions in all rows. They should be equal to the height of the brick with the thickness of the joint.

How to properly insulate the walls of a brick bath?

It is imperative to insulate the walls in a brick bath. Now, both in Russia and abroad, a large assortment of plate heaters is produced - expanded polystyrene, arbolite, kostramite, fibrolite, etc. These are high quality and modern materials... Therefore, do not think about how to insulate the brick walls of the bath - use them. Fasten the boards with clamps to the interior walls or with synthetic glue. Cut strips from the insulation and install them in a spacer to the insulation of the outer structure at a distance of 0.5 meters from each other. There should be an air gap between the inner insulation of the walls of the bath and the outer ones.

Waterproofing the walls of a brick bath

When using any material, it is important to isolate all walls of the bath from steam and moisture. This is especially true of brick, because it absorbs moisture very well. All places where there is a danger of moisture penetration, and especially the walls of the washing room in the bath, must be waterproofed in one of two reliable ways: painting or pasting.

Gluing waterproofing - gluing roofing material or other rolled insulating materials to the walls of the house. Paint waterproofing is the treatment of walls in a bath with bitumen mastic or a special primer. For the preparation of such a mastic, bitumen is used mixed with talc, asbestos and lime. Waterproofing impregnations for bath walls are industrial polymer compositions. They also include antiseptics, so that mold does not appear on the walls after using them in the bath.

Wall decoration in baths made of bricks or blocks

Brick walls must be plastered. For this, lime-cement mortars with light fillers are used. These are pumice, slag, expanded clay, etc. Walls can be plastered on both sides. But on the inside, you will need to additionally make clapboard cladding, among other things - this is additional insulation of all walls of the bath from the inside.

Interior decoration of the walls of a brick bath

To facilitate trimming interior walls in a bathhouse with a tree, it is highly desirable to mount wooden corks into the masonry, on which the slats will beat.

In the resulting inner space, the thermal insulation of the bath walls is mounted with slab building materials or "blankets". A foil vapor barrier is also installed there.

How to insulate walls in a bath with "blankets"? Very simple - they are made from mineral wool, glassine and tow. In advance, knock down a table from the boards with sides, the length of which is equal to the height of the wall, and the width is the width of the glassine. Then spread glassine on this table, insulation for the wall of the bathhouse and again glassine. Through the previously left gaps between the boards of the improvised table, sew your "blanket" with twine.

If you sheathe the building with boards placed horizontally, then instead of the described methods, you can insulate the walls of the bath from the inside with bulk material, for example, expanded clay. If desired, you can sheathe the outer walls.

How to plaster the wall between the bath and the sink. How is the plastering of a stove for a bath. Exterior finishing works

Recipes for plaster solutions

The tool you need to work

What is plastering

Determining the quality of clay at home

Plaster based on alabaster

Cement-based plaster mixes

The order of plastering the stove and basic working techniques

Conclusion

Sauna decoration: we choose the best materials for the steam room, washing and changing rooms

Steam room

Materials for walls and ceilings

Floor

Washing room

Dressing room

Conclusion

Features of the problem

The choice of the composition of the plaster

Recipe selection

Required tool

Process features

How to plaster a brick stove

How to make a mortar for plastering a stove

The tool you need to work

Work technology

Possible problems and how to fix them

Step-by-step instructions for high-quality plastering of a brick oven with a photo

Preparing a room for plastering a brick oven

About materials and tools

Surface preparation

Plaster mortars

Solution preparation rules

Step-by-step instructions for plastering the oven

Exterior finishing works

How to plaster a stove so that it does not crack

Frame baths

Brick baths

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