DIY installation of plastic panels to the ceiling. Ceiling made of PVC (plastic) panels: step by step instructions Installation of pvc panels on the ceiling

More and more people are choosing to improve the interior with a false ceiling. Overlapping from gypsum plasterboard is best done in rooms with a low percentage of humidity. For cladding the suspended ceiling in the bathroom and kitchen, a moisture-resistant material is used. For such purposes, plastic is best suited, since suspended ceiling made of PVC panels is characterized by a number of positive properties compared to other finishes.

Pros of PVC panels

Plastic is a common material used directly in the arrangement. This trend is not surprising, since plastic has such positive properties:

PVC panel is inexpensive compared to other building materials.
Comparatively simple installation.
High moisture resistance. Plastic does not absorb moisture.
The material retains its properties when using cleaning agents.
Plastic endures chemical substances and without losing their properties.
Sheathing the suspended ceiling with PVC panels allows you to hide the details of the ceiling, improving the appearance of the room.
Good soundproofing.
Easy installation, which allows you to do the work yourself.
The extensive color palette makes it possible to choose the best option for a suspended ceiling.

disadvantages

Like any building material, along with advantages, plastic also has negative qualities. The main disadvantages are:

Specific smell. After installing the false ceiling, the smell of plastic remains for some time.
There is a possibility of deformation with a sharp temperature drop.
The impact can damage the plastic.
Plastic does not belong to the category of natural materials, so this kind of material is not recommended to be mounted on the ceiling in residential premises.

Important! Plastic is no longer as prestigious as it was when it hit the market because there are many better materials.

Varieties of material

According to its characteristics, plastic is of three types.

White. This type includes unpainted material.
Color.
Textured. A feature of this type is that a special texture is applied to the surface, which gives the material a natural effect. Such plastic is much more expensive. The ceiling slab, finished with textured plastic, looks presentable and expensive.

Installation tools

To make installation ceiling slab, you need to prepare materials and tools.

You will need:

Profile or bars for the future frame.
Skirting board. Its direct purpose is to fix the panels.
Dowels, screws.
Screwdriver.
Hacksaw.
Corners.

Preparatory work

Before installation, preparatory work must be done. Without them, the following situations are possible:

If a newcomer to the construction business does not check the surface, excess materials may be purchased.
If the ceiling is uneven and not prepared, it is unlikely that the ceiling will be installed correctly.

Important! You have to follow the rules preparatory work in order to avoid additional expenses and in order to save time and effort.

Frame installation

Stages of installation work:

Install the frame (wood or metal).
Fasten the PVC skirting board to the crate.
Place the panels in the skirting board and fix them.

Important! If a collapsible skirting board is chosen, then the decorative part of the baguette must be attached last, after fixing the panel.

Skeleton device

Floor sheathing is impossible without fixing the frame. The best option is a metal frame. For the design, it is best to take the ud and cd profile. Profiles of this kind help to quickly create a frame and align it.

To make the installation of the "skeleton", metal is used, since wood is not so durable compared to metal. The tree is deformed by temperature extremes. When choosing a material for the frame, the selection rules are followed, since the durability of the structure depends on the selected material.

Before installing the suspended frame on the ceiling, markings are made. For these purposes, a level is used. Marks are placed on the wall under the ceiling, along which the guide profile is installed.

You need to fix it with dowels or self-tapping screws, depending on the material of the walls. (Mounting step - 400 mm).

The next step is to install stiffeners. To carry out such manipulations, the following steps are followed:

Stiffeners are laid in the guide profile. Subsequently, panels will be attached to them. Create the frame perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels.

Important! In advance, you need to determine the direction of laying the panels. To make the seams less visible, follow the installation rules (start laying the panel along the wall with a window).

The carrier profile is cut, focusing on the dimensions of the room. The installation step of such a profile is 500-700 mm.
It is impossible to flawlessly sheathe the ceiling with PVC panels if the frame is not stiffened.
After the frame is assembled, it is fixed. If a metal profile is used, then the first element is installed at a distance of 350 mm from the wall. This rule must be followed strictly, since such an important nuance allows you to give the frame stability.

Panel mounting

Correct device construction depends on the direct installation of the first sheet of the plastic panel. Before directly installing the panel on the frame suspended structure carefully check all parameters to avoid errors. It is worth fixing the panel with brackets or self-tapping screws. All subsequent panels must be fixed parallel to the first.

Fastening the PVC panel with screws

Installation of plastic skirting boards, pros and cons

Meticulous work is installation plastic skirting board around the entire circumference of the room. Sometimes there is a split plinth. Its peculiarity is that the decorative edging and the part into which the panel is inserted are supplied separately. At the end of the installation of the skirting board, these parts are connected with a latch. If you follow the installation rules, then installing the skirting board will not take much time and effort.

Important! If there is no experience in installing the plinth, in this case it is worth choosing split models.

Plastic ceiling plinth

Ceiling made of plastic panels - one of the options for quick top finishing in any room. It will look equally good both in the bathroom, toilet, balcony, loggia and living rooms. Even if the next repair is planned in the long term, then familiarize yourself with how to do high quality ceiling from plastic panels on your own, it will be useful.

Harmful or not

There are conflicting opinions about whether a PVC panel ceiling is harmful when used in places where people predominate. Moving away from the subjectivism of assessments, we can state:

Today, plastic is used everywhere in everyday life - from closing goods to kitchen utensils. In the production of panels, raw materials are used that are used for the medical and food group of goods, which undergo mandatory certification.
The structure of the product has no pores. Bacteria and microorganisms have no conditions for cultivation. That is why the Sanitary and Epidemiological Service recommends the panels for use in the buildings of the Ministry of Health and other institutions with a massive visit to the population.
The plastic is easily kept clean with simple household products. At the same time, user properties and aesthetic qualities are not lost.
The flash point of PVC used for the production of panels is represented by 360 ° C. At the same time, chipboard, fiberboard, OSB, which are often used for repairing, enter the combustion process at 250 ° C. Smoke emission from the latter is 40-50% higher.
The plastic ceiling "does not breathe", that is, it does not allow air to pass through, does not deform, and condensate is not drained away. It is a fact. But all apartments and modern private houses are equipped with ventilation. The same applies to old houses, where the owner is allocated space for bathrooms and toilets, if they were not provided for when the building was substituted. The issue of air exchange and humidity control is not solved at the expense of the ceiling of the room.

Thus, the assertion that the use of plastic panels destroys the indoor microclimate and is potentially dangerous for the stay of people has no basis.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

PVC ceiling panels are classified according to several criteria:

The density of the material.
Item size.
Connection type.
Color and texture design.

The joint type determines whether the finishing surface will have a visible seam or if it will be seamless. The finishing method gives the product color and texture, and the surface can be:

monochromatic, does not fade when exposed to ultraviolet light;
varnished, with a special coating that gives a special shine, but scratches can ruin appearance;
pattern, printed in many patterns, but the plastic is soft. And the service life is limited;
laminated, completely repeating natural materials and their derivatives, prone to delamination with prolonged direct exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

All options are resistant to the effects of water or steam, do not change their structure at moderate temperature drops.

In the manufacture of PVC panels for the ceiling, manufacturers are guided by standardized dimensions, where the width can be represented by 100, 200, 250 mm, length - 2700, 3000, 4000 and 6000 mm, with a thickness of 10 mm.

The presented photos show the design options for the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, bedroom, hallway and corridor.

Advice! The service life, in addition to the recommended conditions of use, depends on the density of the elements. Almost all panels are in the affordable price range, but less dense (soft) panels are cheaper. Savings on buying can lead to new expenses in the not too distant future.

Preparatory activities

Like others finishing work during the repair, the panels on the ceiling cannot be fixed without preliminary preparation. It is necessary to carry out a number of activities:

Calculate the number of panels, accessories, fasteners. In the plan, take into account the placement of fixtures, wiring routing.
Check the readiness of the tool and accessories.
Free the room from furniture that interferes with the pretreatment of the ceiling and direct installation.
Remove from ceiling surface remnants of the old finish.
Check wiring. In its deplorable state, as well as if a change in the position of lighting devices is planned, they are dismantled, after having disconnected the input wires from the electrical network.
Inspect the ceiling for defects. Pay special attention to the joints of floor slabs, joints of walls from the street side. Cracks are putty.
Prime the ceiling plane with antibacterial mixtures.

Attention! If the installation is planned to be carried out on suspensions (suspended ceiling), then the volume of these measures is sufficient. But in the case of attaching the guides directly to the ceiling, the plane is additionally leveled with a plaster-based putty.

Calculation principles

A simple mathematical calculation makes it possible to purchase required amount panels and other supplies... First of all, the installation area is determined by multiplying the length and width of the room. Then the result is divided by the area of \u200b\u200bone PVC part, and the required number of parts is obtained. Add 10-15% to the result obtained, rounding the value to the whole panel. This margin is useful in case of erroneous dissolution or installation flaws.

The following are calculated:

the purchase volume of the ceiling profile, as well as suspensions (fastening interval 500-600 mm);
the length of the starting profile, where it is equal to the length of the perimeter and 100 mm of the margin;
dowels, if the metal profile is fastened with a step of 500 mm;
self-tapping screws, at a rate of pcs / meter, respectively, 1 / 0.5.

Additionally, you should purchase a profile for connecting the end parts of the panels, internal and external corners for joining the structure.

Tools and accessories

To carry out the work, prepare the following tools and accessories:

Drilling holes. It can be an electric or hand drill, a semi-professional or professional screwdriver with a set of drills, bits.
Dissolving blanks. Joiner's knife, hacksaw with a blade for cutting metal.
Measurements and markings. Roulette, building level, twine, marker or pencil.
Metal profiles for mounting ceiling structures: UD - 25/25 mm and CD - 25/60 mm in the estimated amount.

Advice! Repair is a planned event. Therefore, it is recommended to prepare the tool and purchase consumables in advance.

How to mount a plastic suspended ceiling

There are several options for fixing panels. Simple is represented by a straight lathing of the ceiling surface with a bar with an interval of 500-600 mm, sequential locking assembly of panels. This option is applicable if, as a result of preliminary preparation, the surface is leveled close to ideal, as well as with low ceilings. But it should be borne in mind that a wooden beam "takes" moisture, deforms. Consequently, the plane of the finishing surface will undergo a change.

Another method is a do-it-yourself suspended ceiling made of plastic panels using a metal profile. In this case, the structure will not lose its consumer properties at any humidity and temperature drops. It is about him that will be discussed further.

Assembling the frame

Work begins with marking. For this, use previously prepared measuring and marker accessories. The order is as follows:

The height of all corners and the value in the center of the room (floor - ceiling) are recorded.
The lowest angle compared to the baseline will be the starting angle. It is from him that the gap of the formed interceiling space is measured (ceiling - panel). For the convenience of attaching the cord, the point is fixed by screwing in a self-tapping screw.
Using a level and a cord, "beat off" the plane to the entire perimeter of the room, where the outlined line will be the junction of the plastic structure.
Placements of metal profiles are added on the opposite walls. The planned intervals are not more than 500 mm.
The places where the suspensions are installed are marked last. It is important to apply the markings with maximum accuracy, since it is difficult to eliminate flaws during installation.

It should be checked for hidden electrical wiring at the attachment points of the suspensions. To do this, use a special detector or seek help from a professional electrician. Further activities include:

along the wall markings, the guide profile is fastened along the entire perimeter, with the exception of the side where the end of the installation is planned, to facilitate the adjustment of the extreme slab;
at previously designated places, holes are drilled for dowels, and suspensions are attached;
next, cut the profile to the desired length, insert it into the guides, fix it on the suspensions with self-tapping screws;
carry out constant control of the horizon of the plane using a stretched cord.

Attention! This stage of work completes the tracing of the wiring, and if planned - communications. It is recommended to place the wires in special corrugated sleeves. Their use allows you to timely identify the wiring when drilling, simplifies full replacement parts of the wire and additionally protects against moisture penetration.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

Ceiling panels are installed perpendicular to the guides in the following order:

Measure the distance between the guide profiles. Transfer the measurements by marking to the panel. Cut off the excess. To do this, use a sharp knife or hacksaw with a fine tooth and a thin blade.
On the trimmed edges, remove the notches with fine-grained emery paper. The panel is freed from its individual packaging if it has not been previously removed.
One end is inserted into the starting profile, palatal bending, the second end is placed in an opposite wall mount.
With a little effort, move the plastic element to the installed perpendicular mount. Thus, it turns out to be fixed in three planes.
On the side with the locking device, the lower part is fixed to the crate with a self-tapping screw.
The operation is repeated with the next panel, with the difference that it is necessary to ensure that it fits exactly into the grooves along the entire length of the part.
On panels where it is supposed to be installed lighting fixtures, drill technical holes of the recommended diameter. In order to avoid unintentional fracture of the plane, work is carried out with special care, avoiding excessive physical effort.
Elements are installed along the entire length of the room in a similar way, while the installation of the extreme panel has some features.

Installation of a plastic wagon on the ceiling is presented in the following video:

Installing the last panel and skirting board

The last panel for the ceiling fits into the rest of the space completely in very rare cases, as a rule, trimming is required. The procedure is presented as follows:

take accurate measurements on both sides of the panel; during installation, a small error could occur;
measurements are transferred to the workpiece, the points are connected with a piece of profile and cut off;
together with the finishing wall profile, they are placed on the trouser seat;
the latter is fixed with an adhesive mixture "liquid nails".

Ceiling plinth is a mandatory attribute of a plastic ceiling. The molding gives a finished look to the room, provides a smooth transition of wall and ceiling surfaces. You will need a miter box to correctly fit the baguette at the corners. If not, then one of the simple markup techniques will be sufficient. You can use a sheet of a notebook in a box. It depicts two lines intersecting in the center. Then the bisectors of the corners are drawn and the 450 necessary for even trimming is obtained.

Advice! Before fixing with glue solution, preliminary fitting is carried out. If necessary, the abutting ends are adjusted additionally.

Sealing gaps with acrylic

Finish assembly work on the installation of plastic panels for the ceiling by gluing skirting boards and sealing gaps with acrylics. After installing the last panel, as a rule, it becomes necessary to seal the joint. At the same time, to make the ceiling plane look monolithic, the joints are filled with acrylic compounds. The order of work is presented as follows:

It is possible to carry out culling by preliminary inspection of the entire plane, but it is more practical to visually break the plane into squares, and sequentially seal all the cracks as you move through the sections.
It is recommended to eliminate blemishes with a construction gun with a tube filled with acrylic.
Simultaneous filling of the slots is carried out in small areas (350-450 mm). The excess is removed immediately, the seam is leveled.
The speed of curing of acrylic is quite high, therefore, if the area where the composition was placed is missed, and it has time to dry, it is carefully removed with a spatula or knife, followed by rubbing the place with warm water.

Attention! Drying of this type of grouting material is accompanied by slight shrinkage, and it may be necessary to re-grout the blemishes after the first layer has completely dried, that is, 7-11 hours.

Ceiling luminaires made of plastic

The change finishing ceiling makes it possible to check the condition of electrical wiring, change the location of lighting fixtures, install modern models... If the ceiling in the bathroom is made of plastic panels, then it is possible to carry out lighting zoning without damaging the wall tile covering, place the wires hidden above the panels.

When self-routing and connecting peripheral electrical devices, you must adhere to safety rules, namely:

Dismantling and subsequent work is carried out after disconnecting the room from the general electrical network. A household "probe-indicator" in the form of a screwdriver will help make sure that there is no voltage.
It is recommended to preliminarily prepare an electrical wiring diagram for the location of lighting devices, switches.
Wires for new wiring are purchased with a cross section corresponding to the maximum load when all devices are turned on. Consultation on this issue can be obtained from trade organizations.
In the places where lamps and switches are connected, a wire is left with a margin - the "loop" will come in handy if you have to renovation work or change equipment if it malfunctions.
After tracing the wires, it is useful, without connecting to the network, to check the correct execution of the circuit using a household voltmeter.

Attention! If home master has no experience self-assembly wiring and connecting devices, in order to avoid accidents from injury electric shock during subsequent operation, a professional electrician should be invited.

Features of the selection and installation of lamps for 220 V

When choosing lighting fixtures, consider the following:

The ignition temperature of plastic is high and it is almost impossible to reach it by contact with a light bulb. But exceeding the heating rate will lead to melting of the seat, a change in color, structure and the appearance of odor. In this regard, bulbs with a power not exceeding 40 W are used.
Security parameters of the lighting device itself. Their importance increases when used in rooms with high humidity levels. Therefore, it is recommended to use lamps with a protection level of at least IP44.
Based on safety requirements, lighting devices should not be located closer than half a meter to the location of the bathroom or shower.
The switchboard for lighting devices in rooms with high humidity is located outside the room.
Places for the installation of luminaires are prepared in the process of direct installation of panels. The diameter of the seat for the lighting system, depending on the brand and manufacturer, ranges from 58 to 74 mm. There are two ways to make a hole.

The first is represented by the use of a suitable sized wood crown.

The second - takes a little more time, but does not require the use of a special tool. The installation site is marked with an ordinary compass. A small incision is made with a sharp knife, and the outline is cut out with a household jigsaw. With all the increase in the time for the procedure, the probability of damage to the panel as a result of inaccurate use of an electric drilling tool is significantly reduced.

Halogen and LED

It distinguishes halogen and LED lighting devices from standard ones, a twelve-volt supply voltage, and to create it, a step-down transformer is connected to the electrical supply network. The place of its installation should exclude the possibility of the penetration of condensate, and even more so water. Safety requirements provide for the installation of a separate automatic fuse with a rating of at least 8 A.

When determining the number of sources spot lighting in any premises where it is planned to install a plastic ceiling with a height of more than 2.6 meters, the following are taken into account:

the lighting cone, when switched on, does not exceed an angle of 300;
for good light density, lamps are installed at intervals of no more than one meter;
the distance from the wall plane to the first lama is 0.6 m and more;
to connect groups of lamps use special pads, "twists" even soldered are not recommended;
to ensure accurate polarity at the power terminals of the device, the wire should be monotonously traced, for example, black - plus, white - minus, wire with a notch - "ground";
when attaching lamps to the frame, they must use special devices (latches, clamps).

The installation procedure for the spotlight is as follows:

Disconnect the base from the light element.
The block is connected to the wire terminals.
The light element is placed in its original location and the function is checked.
If the result is positive, the spotlight is attached to the base with clamps.
The installation is completed by the installation of a decorative strip and a thermal insulator. It should be noted that the designs of the luminaires differ, and therefore it is recommended to study the instructions for the device before starting installation.

How to install lighting elements presents the following videos:

Conclusion

The presented material indicates that a plastic ceiling, in domestic use, is no more dangerous to humans than chipboard panels, while it has a number of advantages. One of them is represented by the possibility of self-assembly, without the need to purchase special tools and accessories. A wide range of panel colors allows you to shape the ceiling for many interior styles.

Gallery of finished works

Any start of repair and construction work requires correct and careful planning. This is especially true in the case when the installation is carried out independently from PVC panels.

Most often, this material is used for finishing rooms with high humidity, such as in the kitchen, bathroom or in the corridor.

On the construction market are represented in a wide colors, therefore, they can be used to decorate the ceiling in other rooms.

To complete the work, you will need to purchase or rent the following tools:

hammer drill or powerful impact drill;
jigsaw or hacksaw for metal;
screwdriver;
measuring instruments;
a hammer;
laser or water level;
building level;
miter box and square;
scissors for metal;
stapler.

In addition to the tool, you will need to purchase everything necessary materials and only then proceed to the installation work.

Panel mounting methods

There are several ways, while among themselves they will differ in the type of base on which the installation is performed.

Metal carcass.

In this case, the crate is made of a metal profile. It has high strength and durability. The only drawback of this option is that the height of the room is reduced by 5-7 cm, so it is not recommended to use it in a room with low ceilings. After mounting the frame, the panels are fixed using self-tapping screws with wide heads.

Two-level metal frame

Frame made of wooden elements.

You can make a crate from wooden beams. The advantages of this option are that it is easier and faster to work with a tree, the cost of such elements will be lower. If we talk about the shortcomings timber frame, then it is afraid of moisture and even after treatment with antiseptics, its service life will be less than that of metal profiles.

If you buy perfectly flat bars, then their cost will not be lower than that of galvanized ones, and cheap material has irregularities, so during operation, in order to get a flat surface, you will have to work hard. It is not recommended to use a wooden frame in damp rooms.

TO wooden crate can be fixed with self-tapping screws, but installation is much easier and faster with a stapler and staples.

Wooden frame

Plastic crate.

Plastic crate has a long service life, light weight and is easy to work with. The cost of such elements is not cheaper than galvanized ones, but nothing can be installed on them, except for PVC panels. Over time, drywall, MDF boards or other materials can be mounted on the metal crate.

The panels are attached to the crate with special clamps, which makes them easy to install, and when needed, you can quickly dismantle the entire structure and install it in another place.

Plastic finishing on wooden crate

Fixing PVC panels directly to the ceiling surface.

In modern apartments, the floor is made with reinforced concrete slabs, if the joints are well sealed, then the surface is perfectly flat. In such situations, they dispense with a supporting frame and mount the panels directly to the ceiling, doing this with the help of “Liquid nails”.

To simplify the work, you first need to apply glue to the panel and leave it for 5-7 minutes. During this time, the glue will set a little, after which the element is pressed tightly against the ceiling and it is securely fixed. To ensure maximum structural strength, it is recommended to apply two layers of primer to the ceiling surface and only then mount the panels.

It does not matter what material is used to create the frame, the bearing profiles, in any case, should be located perpendicular to the panels to be mounted.

Installation steps

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling is divided into several stages:

purchase of the necessary materials;
preparation of a set of tools;
surface marking;
installation of the lathing;
laying electrical wiring for connecting lighting;
installation of panels;
installation of lamps.

Preparation for work

At this stage, the ceiling surface is examined and its condition is determined. If it is perfectly flat, then you should not purchase materials for the lathing, since the panels can be fixed directly to the ceiling with glue.

If the ceiling is uneven or you plan to lay it under the ceiling communication space, you will have to make a crate. In this case, the markings are performed on the walls, to install the starting profile (they retreat from the ceiling by 5-6 cm), for the installation of the supporting frame materials (the distance between them is 60 cm).

Installation of a wooden frame

Before starting work, all wooden products are treated with an antiseptic with high quality. Attached to the wall according to the markings wooden slatsthat will serve as an emphasis for the slats. The distance from the ceiling to the rail is about 5-6 cm, it all depends on the section used for the frame of the wooden beam.

Plastic ceilings in the bathroom can also be mounted on wood

Wooden beams are installed according to the markings on the ceiling; they are fastened to the surface using dowels. If there are irregularities, installation can be carried out supporting structure on suspensions, while the ceiling level will decrease by a few more centimeters.

Installation of a metal frame

Instead of a wooden frame, you can use a structure made of galvanized profiles, it has more high reliability and long service life.

According to the markings on the walls, a wall profile having a U-shape is fixed around the perimeter of the room. If the ceiling is even, then according to the pre-made markings, the bearing profiles can be fixed directly onto it. If there are irregularities in the ceiling, the profiles are mounted on metal hangers.

Metal lathing

After installing the wall profile, take the support element bar, insert it into the grooves of the wall profiles located on opposite walls and fix it on the suspensions using self-tapping screws. Using a level, set the bar in a direction parallel to the floor.

Starting bar and ceiling plinth made in such a way that their support part is slightly wider, this is necessary so that self-tapping screws or staples are twisted into the indicated extension, which fasten the bar.

Lighting installation

After creating the frame, it is necessary to lay electrical wiring. Usually it is performed in special corrugated pipes that are attached to the suspensions, and the wire is already laid in them. The ends of the cable are taken out in those places where the installation of the lamps is planned, and by connecting to the network, they check the operability of all lighting elements. If this is not done, then later, in case of breakdowns, you will have to disassemble the PVC panels.

Fixing panels

When the frame has been installed and the electrical wiring is laid, you can proceed to fixing the panels.

If you have a wooden or metal frame, they are fixed in the same way, just in the first case, it is easier to do it with staples, and in the second, using self-tapping screws.

If the crate is plastic, then the panels are fixed on the clamps.

To trim panels, you must use a blade with fine teeth, usually they take a hacksaw for metal.

First, the first panel is installed close to the wall, leveled, and then fixed to each bearing profile. The next panel is inserted into its groove, it is well pressed so that a minimum gap remains and is fixed again, thus all the trim elements are mounted.

The last panel may not enter completely, then you will have to carefully cut it in width. The fixation of this element is usually carried out not in the joint, but through the top. Then the screw head or bracket will hide behind the ceiling plinth.

It remains to install the lamps, the skirting board and the ceiling is ready.

The technology for performing these works does not differ in complexity and laboriousness. PVC panels are available in a wide range of colors, which allows you to select them for any interior, and the affordable cost and high performance material make PVC ceiling panels the most popular and simplest option.

Video on the topic

PVC is a polyvinyl chloride material, that is, it is simpler - plastic is one of the most popular and diverse building materials in modern construction. Such material can be made of any shape, any design, with predetermined properties. PVC panels are lightweight, durable, durable, temperature-resistant products for quick interior decoration. This is a great alternative to wood. How to work with PVC panels? Let's try to figure it out.

What is good about a PVC panel ceiling?

It is very important to distinguish exactly PVC panels for ceilings from panels on walls, because wall panels are much heavier in weight than ceiling panels. The order for - the most common among the brigades for the finishing of apartments. What are the distinctive advantages of finishing the ceiling with PVC panels from any other finishes?

Here are the most typical reasons for this choice:

cheap: PVC material is one of the simplest and most affordable, moreover, by mounting them on the ceiling, you can avoid using a large amount of plaster, gypsum and other expensive materials. And just this option is a great opportunity to save on labor costs;

easy: You can even install PVC panels yourself - it is not difficult from the point of view of technology. Therefore, such a choice reduces the cost of forces and materials, and most importantly - time;

ease of use: such a ceiling can be removed at any time to wash or wipe. That is, they are almost perfect in grooming. They can be partially disassembled and assembled, hidden under them anything: wiring, ventilation, insulation;

resistance to moisture or damage. The ceiling made of panels can be simply wiped, dried, replaced with a new one. If it happens that neighbors flood from above, you will not have to redo everything from scratch;

aesthetically pleasing: PVC ceiling is ideal in appearance, it hides all the irregularities and imperfections, which cannot be said about whitewashing and painting.

They differ from the lining and sheet in size: it is from 15 to 50 cm in width, and the standard length is 3 m. They also differ in the method of drawing a pattern on them:

hot roll with thermal film;
paints with varnish to give a glossy effect;
applying a pattern to a tree or marble using topographic printing;
production of mirrored or light-transmitting ceilings using polycarbonate and polystyrene.

To choose good PVC panels in a store, you need to take into account their appearance, smell, shape, correct geometry, clarity of coating and color, resistance to bending. A good panel will not leave marks on itself after 3-4 bends, will not be strongly plasticized and will have a sufficient number of stiffeners, which can be seen on the panel cut. It is also worthwhile to carefully examine the product for jags and irregularities: good stuff they definitely shouldn't be.

Council. are used not only as a finishing of joints, but also bring their own flavor to the interior.

What tools will be needed

To correctly and efficiently install PVC panels on the ceiling, you will need the following materials and tools:

hacksaw and jigsaw for shortening panels, forming cutouts for lamps;
for wood - drill, for concrete ceiling - puncher;
standard set of screwdrivers, screwdrivers;
mallet or hammer for mold fitting;
a level for determining a clear horizontal line of the ceiling - a meter in size and half a meter;
masking tape, tape measure, pencil;
construction stapler;
self-tapping screws, nails, assembly glue;
stepladder or wood construction (stool).

How to start installing a PVC ceiling

In order for the ceiling to have something to hold on to, you first need to fix a rigid profile on the wall, at a level of 10-20 cm from the ceiling. So, step by step:

Use a level to measure the horizontal wall mounting of rigid profiles along the perimeter of the room.

Attach the profile to the walls using self-tapping screws and holes pre-drilled with a punch.

We insert a PVC product into the frame, measuring along the length, cutting the profile strips to the size of the ceiling. After mounting the first strip, insert the other, carefully adjusting it to the first so that it fits clearly into the grooves. All profile panels are screwed onto the frame that runs on the ceiling - usually it is made of aluminum or wooden beams. The number of screws and attaching the panel to the beams depends on the size of the room: the wider the ceiling, the more fastening points.

The most crucial step in ceiling mounting is the last panel. Usually, the width of the strip is somewhat not included in the size clearly, so we make a section of the panel for the desired width along. We glue adhesive tape on it and, pulling on this adhesive tape, you need to tighten the panel under the grooves of the penultimate strip.

It is necessary to put a frame or ceiling plinth on liquid nails, remove the remnants of glue with a rag.

Installation nuances

In order for the new ceiling with beautiful PVC panels to fit neatly into the grooves of the L-shaped profile, you need to adhere to the following rules:

be sure to use a level to measure a perfectly flat horizontal line;
in order for the L-shaped frame around the perimeter of the ceiling to hold better, you need to plant it in a small amount of rotband mixture, and remove the excess amount and wait for the mixture to dry;
the installation of plastic strips must be started from the wall, not forgetting about the internal communications - wires for lamps, holes for an air conditioner, etc.

Useful. How to properly cut and connect the corners of the ceiling plinth - in our review.

What installation mistakes should you watch out for?

It is better to use an aluminum frame instead of beams and beams - then these lintels will not change their shape from moisture - aluminum from steam will not bend or rust, and the tree may eventually break the structure.

Cut a hole for the lamp

It is also worth noting that installers can hastily fasten panels with staples from a stapler gun, but this is not a reliable method of fastening, it is better to do this with self-tapping screws.

It is especially worth thinking about the reliability of fastening if you choose finishing as a material.

It is difficult to do without updating the ceiling surface when it comes to full renovation. And although there are a dime a dozen worthy alternatives in the niche market, the installation of pvc panels on the ceiling is still one of the most popular options. Largely, due to the ease and accessibility of the work themselves, as well as the absence of serious requirements for the selection of the available tools. How to install pvc panels on the ceiling with your own hands will be discussed in our detailed instructional article. All the necessary photo and video materials will help you.

Selection of material

Before direct installation of pvc panels on the ceiling surface, even before the moon, until you decided on the color, texture and size of the material. Each hardware store will immediately offer you a wide range of plastic panels, so if you don't find the right option for yourself, you have to try. Nevertheless, here are some tips to help you make the right purchase:

for small rooms, select panels with a width of no more than 25 centimeters, for large ones, respectively, more than 25 centimeters;
pay attention to the product specification: ceiling panels, despite their visual similarity, differ from wall panels in lower weight;
ordinary white panels are most often used for finishing public and home bathrooms, for other options it is best to choose colored or textured options - visually they can support even the most interesting and non-trivial interior;
if the task is to visually enlarge the room, which cannot boast of a decent area, panels with a glossy surface, which significantly work to create volume and depth, would be an ideal choice;
choose panels with a hidden seam - so your ceiling will look more monolithic, but if you are going to use a whole cascade of built-in lamps, then it is quite possible to allow the purchase of material with a highlighted seam, the main thing is to correctly fit it into the interior composition.

What is needed for installation?

Everything you need for installation is in an easy-to-view list below:

self-tapping screws;
anchor bolts;
dowels;
bars (for a wooden frame);
ceiling plinth;
CD and UD profiles;
suspensions of the "crab" type.

Instrument preparation

Check if everything necessary tools at your fingertips. So, you will need:

roulette;
pencil, marker;
level;
painting cord;
corner;
scissors for metal;
jigsaw;
perforator (drill);
screwdriver.

Foundation preparation

remove all previously installed lamps and chandeliers;
mark the places of passage of the wiring with a marker;
remove from concrete base all dirt and dust on the ceiling surface.

Markup

determine with the help of the level the lower point of the base of the ceiling;
step back 5 cm and mark a point that will serve as the level of your future ceiling;
draw a line around the entire perimeter of the premises using a paint cord or a water level;
your markup for making a frame for pvc panels is ready.

Frame preparation

The frame for the subsequent installation of pvc panels can be made of wooden blocks, plastic or metal profiles. The decision on this issue is made only by you, but it is impossible not to cancel the generally recognized fact: in rooms with high humidity it is best to use metal profiles (read more about the technology of installing pvc-panel ceilings in the bathroom), which are not so afraid of the influence of moisture as ordinary bars.

Frame made of wooden blocks will cost you about two times cheaper than metal, and it will be assembled a little faster. True, you need to pick up bars with a cross section of at least 3 by 3 cm.

A nuance to pay attention to: the price for perfectly flat bars is equal to the price of finished metal profiles.

How much do you estimate your time spent on tweaking the curved bars?

However, if you have successfully dealt with uneven bars, then your next step is to fix them to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. Observe step 60 cm, and if you want to bring the plane ideally to the level, then prudently drive in the extreme strips and pull the nylon cords from them to the center and along the edges. Already in accordance with the tensioned cords, drive in the rest of the beams in the same way, observing the minimum necessary step 50 cm.

Lathing made of plastic U-shaped profiles will cost you about the same amount as metal, but it is far from universal: if later you want to change the pvc panels to some other material, you will have to prepare the frame again.

This is how it looks in the picture.

But as in reality.

The principle of attachment to the base is the same as that of the frame on wooden beams with the only difference that the fixing should be done using fastening screws through pre-mounted wedges. The advantage of this option is the amazing convenience of direct mounting of pvc panels, which can be easily driven into the groove. Well, we have already mentioned the cons above.

The most common way to make a frame is from metal profiles.

We will not reveal anything new for you here:

the longitudinal CD profile is inserted into the opposite grooves of the UD guide profile;
with the help of crab type hangers, the longitudinal CD profile is additionally fixed to the ceiling with anchor bolts;
the step for installing suspensions is from 60 to 80 centimeters;
the step for fixing the profiles is 50-60 centimeters.

Installation of plastic panels

we attach to the frame around the entire perimeter a ceiling plinth with a mounting groove using self-tapping screws;
we insert the first panel with a spike inside the starting profile and fix it on the guide bar with a self-tapping screw, bracket or clasp - depending on which type of construction you have chosen;
the installation of the next panel does not bring anything new: it is inserted with a spike into the groove of the previous one, pressed against the guides and fixed at the back;
the last panel is the most difficult, and in order to accurately carry out its installation, you need to cut it lengthwise and then cut it in width in accordance with your measurements, and then carry out direct installation;
in the case when the last panel is not included, it is always easy to get rid of excess material using a clerical knife.