How to lay a metal tile with your own hands. Installation of metal tiles yourself What you need to lay a metal tile

Metal roofing is one of the most popular roofing materials. This is due to its good performance properties, availability and the ability to independently perform installation.

Pros and cons of metal roofing

Most often, metal tiles are used for the roof of a private house, since this roofing material has many advantages:

Metal tile - durable and attractive roofing material

But the metal tile has one significant drawback - noisiness during rain and hail. Therefore, a sound insulation layer (for example, polystyrene) must be included in the roofing cake of a residential building. Also, this role can be performed by a double layer of insulation or a metal tile with a special soundproof coating.

Layers of insulation under the metal roofing do a good job of suppressing outside noise.

Insulated and non-insulated roofing

Metal tiles can be used to cover a private house and any outbuilding. The roof of residential buildings is always made insulated. The roofing cake of an insulated residential attic has the largest number of layers:

• metal tile - performs the protective function of the structure;
• noise isolation - dampens vibration and noise due to external influence on metal sheets;
• crate - the place of attachment of the roof;
• counter-lattice - provides a ventilation gap, prevents condensation from forming;
• waterproofing - protects the insulation from moisture;
• thermal insulation - retains heat inside the dwelling;
• rafter system;
• vapor barrier - prevents the penetration of moisture from the inside of the room;
• inner lining.

When arranging a roofing pie for a metal tile, it is better not to save money so that the roof turns out to be of high quality and lasts a long time

On an outbuilding or summer unheated garden house the design of a roofing pie for a metal tile is much simpler:

• metal tile;
• crate;
• counterlattice;
• waterproofing;
• truss system.

It is good to use a metal tile for a roof of outbuildings, canopies from sun rays, garage and bath

Installation of metal roofing

You can cover the roof with metal tiles yourself, if you study the instructions in advance, calculate the material and prepare the right tools.

Before work, it is important to remember the basic rules for installing metal tiles on the roof

Required Tools

To install metal roof tiles you will need:

You will also need a solid ladder. For installation work on low outbuildings it is better to use a ladder. And for movement on the roof of the building, it is necessary to fix wooden stairs on a skateboard.

For safety and ease of installation of metal tiles, ladders are used, fixed on the top of the roof.

Material calculation

The metal tile sheet has two widths:

• total (1180 mm);
• useful (1100 mm) - the edges are not considered, since the sheets overlap each other.

In the calculations, the value of the useful width is used.

If desired, you can order material from the manufacturer according to your own dimensions, so as not to cut the sheets later

To determine the required amount of material, it is necessary to measure the roof and calculate:

1. How many rows. To do this, divide the width of the slope (along the cornice or ridge) by the useful width of the sheet of metal. For example, 5 m: 1.1 m = 4.5. The resulting number is rounded up to 5 rows.
2. How many sheets are in a row. To do this, the height of the slope must be divided by the length of the sheet of metal (standard sheet 2.5 m). For example, 3.5 m: 2.5 m = 1.4. Round up to 2 pieces. If desired, you can order the length of the sheets, equal to the height of the slope.
3. The amount of material. It turns out: for one slope you need 5 * 2 \u003d 10 sheets, and for two - 20 sheets.

The color of the self-tapping screw head for fastening the metal tile to the crate can be matched to the tone of the roofing material

When choosing screws, you need to pay attention to:

• distance between turns - self-tapping screws with a large distance between turns are suitable for fastening metal tiles to wooden beam;
• tip - self-tapping screws with a sharp tip fasten the metal tile to the metal base;
• length - long self-tapping screws are suitable for fixing additional elements, short ones - for connecting sheets and fastening metal tiles to the crate (2.8 cm);
• hat shape.

Lathing technology for metal sheets

The weight of the metal tile is small, so a special base for it is not required. It is only necessary to nail the crate to the rafter system.

It is necessary to fill the crate under the metal tile exactly according to the markup

It is important to correctly determine the step of laying the boards. The distance between the first and second boards should be 25–35 cm (depending on the distance between the bends of the sheet of a particular metal tile model), then the step increases by 5 cm and is kept constant.

The step of the lathing must correspond to the step of the wave of the metal tile

In problem areas (placement of valleys, junction of metal tiles to the pipe and near windows), the crate is made continuous.

The technology of laying metal tiles on the roof

Usually, metal sheets begin to be laid from the right edge of a rectangular roof slope. Then each next sheet is stacked on the previous one. If you move in the opposite direction, then each next sheet is placed under the previous one. If the slope is triangular in shape, then the first sheet is placed in the center of the slope (where its greatest height is). And the rest are already attached to it on both sides. The installation itself is performed in the following sequence:

1. Lay the first row of metal tiles. In this case, you should not immediately securely fix the sheets. It is better to grab a little in one place, align them relative to each other and the edge of the slope. The first row should hang from the eaves by 5 cm.

   
   You can start work both on the left side and on the right

2. Fix metal roofing. It is recommended to use only high-quality fasteners, since the service life of the roof directly depends on this. Self-tapping screws need to be placed through the wave.

   
   Fasteners must be placed through the wave, tighten tightly, but do not pinch the sealing ring

3. At the junction, part of the corner is cut off to remove the seal. It is possible to straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.

   
   If you need to move along the metal tile, then you can only step on the lower part of the wave

4. Repeat the process for the second and subsequent rows.

   Eat different variants laying metal tiles in two rows, so having studied the installation principle, you can choose more convenient way for a specific roof

5. Fix end strips. Lay them with an overlap of 2 cm.

When working with metal sheets, you need to follow some rules:

• move carefully on the roof, in comfortable shoes, step only on the lower part of the wave;
• immediately paint over the cut with special paint. It is forbidden to cut a metal tile with a grinder, as the protective coating is broken;
• after installation, remove the protective film from the surface of the material: it will not look aesthetically pleasing if it crumbles under the influence of sunlight.

Video: installation of metal tiles with step-by-step instructions

Roof ridge installation

The ridge is made from the same material as the roofing. Its installation is carried out as follows:

With a slope angle of 45 °, before installing the ridge, it is necessary to check its compatibility with a roof of a similar design. Otherwise, there is a risk of moisture penetrating into the under-roof space, which will entail complete replacement roofs.

Video: how to install a horse yourself

Valley installation

If the roof is of a complex shape, then a valley is placed at the junction of two slopes.

First, the lower valley is attached, then the roofing is mounted, after which the joint is closed by the upper valley.

It is necessary to carry out its installation in accordance with the technology:

Video: the internal structure of the valley

Pipe finishing

To finish the exit points of the heating or ventilation pipe, special aprons are used. Installation is carried out as follows:

Video: how to properly bypass a pipe

grounding

When using metal sheets as a roofing material, it is worth considering the arrangement of grounding. To do this, you can use a pin electrode or metal pipes(natural ground). But not pipes with flammable liquids, sewer and central heating.

metal roof must be grounded to avoid problems during thunderstorms

The cross section of the pin-electrode should be 50 mm 2 or more, and the thickness of the steel strips should be from 4 mm. A lightning rod is mounted on the roof: a steel rod 12 mm thick and 200–1500 mm long. For it, you can use a pipe with a sealed end. The pin is buried in the ground and connected with a galvanized steel wire with a cross section of 6 mm or more with this lightning rod.

During a thunderstorm, the lightning rod takes on an electric discharge and transmits it to the ground

Video: do-it-yourself budget version of a lightning rod

Installation of snow guards

At the last stage of installation, snow retainers are attached to the roof. This element is mandatory if a polyester-coated metal tile was used.

The greater the slope of the roof, the more snow retainers will be required.

It is necessary to arrange the snow retainer strips in one or two rows in a checkerboard pattern. The greater the angle of inclination of the ramp, the more planks you need to use. You can fasten them to the metal tile with the same self-tapping screws that were used to mount the roof.

Snow guards are placed for the safety of people below when the icy snow mass begins to descend from the roof

Video: why and how snow retainers work, the rules for their installation

The service life of a metal tile depends on the correct installation, and on compliance with the rules of care. First of all, it concerns regular cleaning. But you need to clean the metal tile correctly so as not to damage the protective polymer layer. The main stages of caring for a metal roof:

• to remove dirt and leaves, you need to use a fleecy brush;
• in the presence of more serious pollution, you can choose special products designed for polymer coatings;
• drainage system clean only with water under pressure;
• remove snow with special tools that are not capable of damaging the material (plastic scraper).

Proper care can extend the life of metal roofing up to 50 years.

A metal tile can be an excellent protection for a building from the weather. And it will last for more than a dozen years, but subject to the installation technology, the choice of high-quality additional elements and fasteners, as well as timely cleaning and repair.

A well-laid roof covering not only protects the house from rain, snow and other atmospheric influences, but also decorates it, giving the house a completely finished look. As a roof covering, metal tiles have long been popular among private home developers. Light weight, easy to install, quite elegant appearance- this is just a small list of all the advantages of this roofing material.

But still, despite the seeming simplicity of laying this material, you need to master the basic principles of installing metal tiles so that it can protect the house from precipitation for a long time.

Before starting to cover the roof, you need to prepare for work, that is, choose a metal tile, lay waterproofing, install the crate and make a calculation of the amount of material required for the roof.

During cutting with an abrasive wheel, heat, which burns out not only the polymer, but also the galvanized coating. And this leads to corrosion of the metal middle of the sheet and to slow roof decay.

Before laying the metal tile correctly, you need to measure the entire roof and determine its shape. This will not be difficult to do if she has only two slopes. In this case, it will only be necessary to check the symmetry of each diagonal slope, which should be the same size, and if they match, this is very good. If the indicators are different, then they will have to be aligned due to the crate.

But with a complex geometric shape of the roof, calculations will already be more difficult. For example, for a four-pitched, broken or hip roof, each slope will have to be calculated separately.

To calculate the number of sheets per roof slope, you need to measure its width, if it is a single or gable roof, and divide the resulting value by the width of the sheet, calculating from it the value of the overlap on the adjacent sheet. And if it is a complex roof, the width is measured from the valley to the eaves.

The results are rounded up. A standard sheet is produced with a width of 1.17 - 1.2 m, but their working width is always the same and equal to 1.1 m, and everything else goes into overlap. For example, the slope width is 9 m, the calculation will be made as follows: 9: 1.1 = 8.18. This means that 9 sheets will need to be prepared for such a slope.

Then the number of sheets in one row is calculated. To do this, the roof slope is measured from the ridge to the eaves. Maximum length sheet 8 m / p, but the transportation and especially the laying of sheets of such length is rather difficult. Therefore, the sheets are cut. But if you take long sheets and cut them in place, this can make it quite difficult to install tiles. To avoid such a situation, the length of the sheets must be chosen optimal.

For example, the length of the slope is 6 m, add another 0.5 m here, this is the length of the overhang. The total length is 6.5 m, which means that this length can be covered with two sheets of 4 m each, while one sheet will be intact, and the other will be cut by 250 mm. This means that there are two sheets in each row, and as a result it turns out 9 × 2 = 18 sheets need to be prepared for one slope.

When making a calculation of materials for a roof made of metal tiles, one should not forget that it is necessary to measure each slope separately, since they can be of different lengths even on a gable roof.

According to the instructions, the installation of a roof from a metal tile is carried out in the following sequence:

All wooden roof elements must be treated with special fire-retardant impregnations., as well as compounds against fungus, rot and various microbes and insects.

On the inside of the sheets of metal tiles, when the temperature changes, moisture condenses, which can eventually, if not taken in time, lead to very unpleasant consequences, such as rotting. truss system roofs, battens, metal corrosion, etc.

To prevent such troubles in the future, a waterproofing film is placed under the tiles and internal ventilation of the roof is done. Ventilation is carried out by means of control rails stuffed on top of the waterproofing film, and the crate on which the metal tile is laid.

The waterproofing film is selected from a material that has good hydrophobicity and is not prone to moisture accumulation. It must stably endure any temperature fluctuations and be suitable specifically for specific climatic conditions. Another of the requirements can be noted a long service life and endurance to any conditions.

Laying waterproofing: progress of work

The film, starting from the very bottom of the slope, is rolled out horizontally on the roof. In this case, each upper strip should overlap the lower one by about 100-150 mm. Often, for reference, the film already has a corresponding colored band that indicates the amount of overlap.

The film is attached to rafter legs ah with staples hammered with a construction stapler, and finally attached to the rafters with a control rail, on which the crate for the tiles is subsequently assembled. For more reliable insulation, the overlap joints of the film are additionally glued with adhesive tape.

The film between the rafters should be given a slight sag of about 20 mm. This is necessary to keep it in winter time so that it does not break at low temperatures from excessive tension. When rolling out waterproofing, it is very important not to confuse the sides of the film, otherwise all its properties will cease to fulfill their functions, and it will not only leak, but also damage the insulation, if laying one is planned.

How to make a crate

The first board of the crate is stuffed along the edge of the roof cut onto the fillies of the rafter legs. The center of the second board should be placed approximately 280 - 300 mm from the outer edge of the first board. The following elements of the crate must be fixed in such a way that their centers are 350 mm apart.

The last row of the crate in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge is made from a wide board or several bars stuffed side by side.

Laying metal tiles step by step

When the crate is completely ready, the laying of the metal tile begins. The circuit itself is not particularly difficult, but it is worth knowing certain installation rules. The best option, of course, there will be one where one sheet completely covers the entire length of the slope: fewer joints, fewer problems and less waste. But it's true for the overlap gable roofs. But when covered complex roofs there will always be a lot of scraps.

1. Laying tiles begins with nailing a cornice strip onto the eaves board, which serves to protect the frontal board and the inside of the roof from direct exposure to atmospheric precipitation. When laying tiles, a sealant must be placed between the sheet and the plank.
2. In places where water is likely to leak under the roofing (negative angles at the joints of the slopes), internal valleys are mounted on the crate, which protect against water leakage into the space under the roof. In the place where the valley is laid, it is desirable to make the crate almost continuous, and a sealant is laid between it and the metal tile.
3. Start laying metal tiles gable roof can be from anywhere. It is better to start covering the hip roof from the highest point and diverge from it to the sides, and the hip roof from the eaves. Depending on the direction of installation on the two-slope roof, the sheets can be laid on top of the stacked sheets or slipped under them.
4. After the first sheet is temporarily fixed, a second sheet is placed above it, which is also temporarily fixed to the crate. Then, next to the first sheet of tiles, another 2-3 sheets are laid, which are temporarily fixed to each other. After that, they are aligned with the lower edge clearly along the cornice cut and fixed on the crate. Only the last one is not fixed, with the help of which the next sheets of tiles will be aligned.
5. As soon as the metal tile is laid, the end strips are installed, overlapping the edges of the tile from above, protecting it from gusts of wind and penetration of rainwater under it. In addition to protection from the wind, the bar also performs a decorative function. The installation of the end strips is made from the bottom of the eaves. Each subsequent plank is superimposed on the previously mounted one with an overlap of about 100 mm.
6. Ridge and outer corner strips are mounted. But before installing the ridge, make sure that the waterproofing film on the ridge has a gap of 200 mm for ventilation.
7. External valleys are mounted. Their main role is to drain water and give the roof a more aesthetic appearance.
8. Closer to the edge of the slope, elements for snow retention are installed.
9. Adjacency strips to the walls are installed, with the help of which a hermetic connection of the roof with the walls is made.
10. The drainage system is installed. It is not recommended to bring more than 10 m of gutter to one drain pipe.

A few rules for fixing metal tiles

In the process of work, some nuances should be taken into account:

1. Sheets of metal tiles are fixed to the crate with special self-tapping screws at the rate of 6-8 pieces per 1 sq. / m.
2. Self-tapping screws are twisted under the bottom of the wave in the place of the tightest fit of the sheet to the crate.
3. The side overlap of sheets on top of each other in width is approximately 60-80 mm. In length, if short sheets are stacked, the overlay can be in the range of 100–130 mm, and if the length of the sheets is more than 6 m / n, the overlay should be at least 250 mm.
4. Sealing is not performed at the places where the sheets are laid, and when the roof is joined to the walls and other roof elements, a sealant is laid under the junction strips (usually silicone sealant is used).

Metal roofing has firmly entered our lives. It is this option that more and more people choose to cover the roof. It has many advantages, and one of the main ones is considered to be a long service life and reliability. But for these advantages to really work, the installation must be carried out correctly. And what is the technology of laying metal tiles on the roof? What difficulties may arise on the way to the implementation of this task? This will be discussed in the article.

How much material is needed and how to choose it

Laying metal tiles with your own hands is a completely feasible task. But before you start it, you should purchase the material itself, and in the right amount. In order to determine how many sheets of metal tiles you need, you should do the following:

1. Calculate the area of ​​the roof. If the roof is gable, then this will not be difficult to do. Difficulties with calculations will arise with a more complex roof configuration. For a four-slope, broken or other option, you should calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach slope separately.
2. After that, you can decide on the right amount of the metal tile itself. But even here difficulties can arise. Firstly, the laying of the material on the roof is carried out with an overlap. Secondly, you should definitely monitor the correctness of the drawing.
3. It is necessary to add 10-15 percent to the calculated amount of metal tiles. You will not be able to lay the material without trimming, especially on a roof with a complex configuration.

After calculating the right amount of metal tiles for laying on the roof of your new home, you can go to the hardware store. But the purchase itself should be done carefully so as not to purchase low-quality products. To prevent this from happening, you should pay attention to some features.

Firstly, the protective polymer layer of the metal tile should not have chips and cracks. Secondly, the sheets themselves must be even, without dents or kinks. In addition, ask the sellers for material documentation. It should indicate that the metal tile is made according to the existing GOST.

Another tip is to buy directly from a major manufacturer. In this case, the cost of metal tiles may be less than thirty percent. Why the big one? The fact is that many entrepreneurs buy machines for the production of metal tiles. But not all of them have the quality of products at the right level. Large manufacturers are more "reverent" about their reputation.


Preparing the base for metal roofing

Laying metal tiles on the roof is made using crates. You can make it with your own hands. To do this, you need to prepare the material. As a rule, for the crate is used wooden planks or bars, but you can also put a sheet of chipboard. The latter option in the case of metal tiles is rarely used. For this type of roofing material, the crate is discharged.

The boards or bars used must meet the following requirements:

1. Humidity of the material is not more than 10-12 percent.
2. All boards should be the same size, especially their thickness.
3. Do not use material with "flaws", for example, with cracks or places prone to decay.

For most often use boards with dimensions of 25 by 100 millimeters. If the roof has a complex configuration, then it is better to use thicker bars.

It is very important to determine the step of the crate. It all depends on. The step of laying the boards should be equal to the distance between the waves. But this does not apply to all sections of the roof. At the cornice, the step between the boards of the crate should be less, by about 2-3 centimeters.

The technology of laying the boards of the roof sheathing under the metal tile is simple. Work should start from the eaves. The first board is mounted on the very edge. Further, an indent of 23-28 centimeters is made and the next one is attached. After that, the boards are laid with a step equal to the step of the wave of the metal tile.

You can fix it with wood screws or nails. The first option is considered the most reliable. Fastening is made directly to the rafters, two points.


Before installation, it is very important to treat all boards with special impregnations. Wood is a "capricious" material. He is "afraid" of moisture, fire and biological effects, if the boards are not treated with impregnations, they will quickly rot.

Do not forget about waterproofing. Of course, if the metal tile is laid correctly, the roof will not leak. But you can not do without an additional layer of waterproofing. The fact is that with temperature changes under the roofing material, condensation begins to form. If moisture gets on the wooden elements of the truss system, they will begin to rot.

Can be used as waterproofing various materials. You can lay a thick plastic film or a special membrane. As inexpensive option roofing material can also be used, but here you should be careful. If the bitumen gets on the polymer layer of the metal tile, then the latter may begin to "deteriorate".


What you need to lay the material

Putting a metal tile with your own hands on the roof of a house is a simple task. But in order for everything to go quickly and without hesitation, you should prepare for work. First of all, you need to acquire all the tools and fixtures.

Laying metal tiles on the roof with your own hands is carried out using the following:




You should also prepare the right materials. In addition to self-tapping screws and the metal tile itself, you should “stock up” with additional products. Any roof of the house is not complete without a cornice and end plank, a ridge and other details. It is advisable to purchase them from the same manufacturer from whom the metal tile was purchased.


Installation instructions

Now it is worth considering such a question as laying metal tiles step by step. The technology of this process is as follows:

1. The first step is to fix the cornice and end plank. These additional elements play an important role, they protect the roof of the house. Before mounting the cornice strip, the frontal board is nailed. Brackets for the drain are attached to it. After that, the cornice strip is laid.
2. If the roof has negative angles, then the next step will be the installation of the valley. This element must be placed on a continuous crate.
   
3. Next, you can carry out the laying of the metal tile itself. You need to do this from the eaves. From which side of the roof, from the right or from the left, to start is the business of the master himself. It's not essential. The first sheet must be laid flush with the cornice and the edge of the roof. The next is placed on the right or left.
4. The installation procedure is simple. First, the bottom row is mounted. Further, the next and so on to the skate. The best option is if it matches the length of the slope. In this case, the laying will be carried out faster, and the roof itself will turn out to be more reliable (there will be few joints). But if the roof is broken or has a complex configuration, then this will not work.
   
5. It is not necessary to fasten sheets of metal tiles to the crate immediately. First, one row is laid out. Next, you should align all the sheets relative to each other and the edges of the roof. After that, it is carried out. At the same time, for each square meter there must be at least eight screws.
6. Attachment points should be strictly above the boards of the crate. The installation instructions indicate that the screws are screwed one and a half centimeters below the stamping line of the metal tile. At the same time, you can not be too zealous. The cap should firmly press the metal tile to the base, while not damaging it.
   
7. The instructions for laying metal tiles indicate the next step - this is the fastening of the upper valley. Its laying is carried out on top of the roofing material. In this case, it is necessary to use special products that improve the tightness of the joints. The valley is the most dangerous place on any roof. It is here that leaks are most often observed.
   
8. Next, along, is the laying of additional products. This is a skate, end strips and so on. It is best that they are from the same manufacturer. In this case, the installation will take place without much difficulty. In addition, it will provide a more attractive appearance and greatly improve the protection of the roof of the house.
9. When laying additional materials, one should also be attentive to waterproofing and other “additions”. This is especially true for the skate. Here, in addition to the seal to improve leakage protection, other devices should be used that will ensure the presence of a ventilation gap. Without such a "gap", the condensate that forms under the metal tile when the temperature changes can quickly disable the truss system.

One of the important stages in the construction of the roof is the laying of metal tiles on the previously prepared crate. Today's technologies provide a wide range of materials, which makes it possible to quickly and efficiently build a roof of any complexity. High technology and precision in manufacturing turn the installation of metal tiles into an exciting process that even a non-professional can perform.

Roof system installation tools

Before starting work, you need to prepare the following tool: tape measure, assembly knife, a marker, a screwdriver with a nozzle for self-tapping screws, a cord, self-tapping screws, a long rail, a hammer, a nozzle for a drill for cutting metal, tools for cutting roofing materials.

The tools for cutting the roof are: an electric jigsaw, manual lever shears for metal (straight, right and left), a hacksaw for metal with small teeth, electric shears (punching).

After cutting the profile, the cut points must be painted over with a special can of paint. This will protect the zinc from further corrosion.

Cutting roofing material with an abrasive wheel or grinder is prohibited! With such cutting, not only the polymer coating is violated, but also the zinc itself, which will further lead to oxidation and corrosion.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

To calculate how much material is needed for laying metal tiles, it is necessary to measure the roof and take into account all the elements and protrusions, the number of rows that will be on the future structure. For this, a simple instruction is used, according to which it is easy to calculate the amount of material.

For example, the width of the roof slope is 6 meters. And the useful width of the profile (indicated by the manufacturer of the profile) is 1.11 meters (also called the effective length). The number of rows will be (6/1.11)=5.40, which when rounded gives us 5 rows.

The calculation of the length of the sheets and their number is made by measuring the length of the roof slope from the eaves to the ridge, plus the length of the overhang, which lies in the range of 40-50 mm, plus 150 mm (in the case of using several rows), which are minimal with a horizontal overlap.

For example, the measured length of a roof slope is 7 meters. Then the required length will be: 7 + 0.05 + 0.15 \u003d 7.2 meters (provided that two sheets are laid in a row).

Almost all manufacturers of metal tiles offer the customer to choose the length of the profile cutting. The maximum length does not exceed eight meters, but, as practice has shown, it is most convenient to use sheets no longer than 4-5 meters long. Therefore, in our examples above, the installation of metal tiles in two rows was used.

What you need to know when using a roof profile

Before laying a metal tile, you need to know that the implementation of the necessary simple rules ensure the longevity of the materials used.

Selection and installation of self-tapping screws

With the help of galvanized self-tapping screws, the profile is fastened to the crate. Therefore, the quality of self-tapping screws must be taken seriously, because the service life of high-quality fasteners is commensurate with the service life of metal tiles (30-50 years). To do this, choose special, branded self-tapping screws with the head of the required color and with a gasket made of EPDM (Ethylene-propylene-diene-monomer) - rubber.

They are fastened with a screwdriver or an electric drill with a reverse and a speed switch. If, during laying, an accidental damage to the layer of material occurs, then it is necessary to apply a masking aerosol can to the place of damage.

The tightening of the screws should be tight enough, but not so much as to push through the gasket.

Rules for fixing metal tiles

Before starting installation, all structural elements must be treated with an antiseptic. The technology of laying metal tiles and its fastening begins with lifting one sheet at a time to the roof. Depending on the height of the building, special lifting belts or logs are used, which are located from the ground to the edge of the roof.

With the length of the sheets of metal equal to the length of the slope, the first sheet is aligned along the end and the eaves of the roof. The profile is fastened using roofing screws with an EPDM gasket and a colored head. Dimensions 4.8×28 mm (in the case of wooden crate) and 4.8 × 20 mm (for a metal crate). The required length of self-tapping screws ultimately depends on the type of profile and is specified by the supplier of the metal tile.

In the sole of the wave, in places of contact with the crate, self-tapping screws are screwed in a checkerboard pattern through one wave. The approximate consumption of self-tapping screws per square meter of the profile is 6-8 pieces.

If the metal tile is laid from left to right, then the edge of the second sheet is placed under the edge of the first and leveled. If from right to left, then it is correct to lay the second sheet overlapping on the first. Subsequent profiles must be laid similarly to the previous ones.

The first sheet is laid on the crate with an offset of 40-50 mm above the edge of the eaves and fastened with one temporary screw at the edge of the ridge and at the cornice with a self-tapping screw to the crate.

Next is the installation of the second profile sheet. To do this, it is necessary to accurately and tightly join the sheets to each other with a lateral longitudinal overlap so that there are no gaps and distortions. They are connected to each other by self-tapping screws 4.8 × 20 mm through the top of the wave, under the transverse wave of the profile. The connection starts from the eaves to the ridge.

In this way, three or four sheets of metal tiles are connected. A temporary self-tapping screw is unscrewed, installed on the first sheet near the ridge, and the entire block of profiles is aligned relative to the eaves.

A control measurement of the offset is made on both sides of the block. If the dimensions match, it is obvious that the sheet is aligned correctly, and it must be evenly fixed with one self-tapping screw to the crate. The remaining sheets are attached at the joints and to the crate.

After carrying out the installation work, the chips from drilling and cutting must be removed with a soft brush, and the damaged areas should be touched up with special paint.

In the case when the roof slope will consist of several rows, then it is necessary to correctly lay the roofing profile according to a different principle. In this case, sheet extension is used in the order shown in the figure below. The order of installation is determined by the drainage grooves on the longitudinal edges of the metal tile, connected with an overlap. When building up sheets of metal tiles, they are connected along the roof slope with an overlap of at least 150 mm and the sole of the longitudinal wave is attached to the crate.

The fixation of the transverse profile of the metal tile is carried out at the end of the transverse wave, or at the bottom of the longitudinal wave above the transverse wave without fixing to the crate. For this operation, self-tapping screws 4.8 × 20 mm (for metal) are used.

For a hip (hip) roof, installation begins from the highest point and then evenly on both sides according to the principles described above.

The capillary groove of each profile must be covered by the previous stacked sheet.

Skate mount

For the necessary ventilation of the attic space, it is necessary that the profile sheets do not converge under the ridge bar. The ridge is attached to the roofing with self-tapping screws, at the top of every second wave. In this case, the overlap of the planks is at least 10 cm in length. Installation of a semicircular ridge on hip roof occurs with the help of Y-shaped overlays and tent caps.

Installation of the cornice strip

The cornice bar protects the frontal board from atmospheric precipitation and its further destruction. Planks are laid with a 50 mm overlap, galvanized nails, in increments of 300 mm.

Valley installation

The planks of the base for the valley are laid continuous at the level with the crate. A 20 mm gap must be observed between the valley planks to ensure ventilation. The cornice strip is cut off and mounted on the corners of the valley.

Next, the profile of the lower valley is set and cut to the shape of the cornice strip. Guides are drawn along the valley plank, like invisible borders of profile sheets. The recommended minimum distance between guide lines is 200 mm.

After laying the roof, along the entire length of the valley plank for aesthetic beauty, a decorative upper lining of the valley is laid. It is fixed in the upper bend of the wave of the metal tile with a step of 300-500 mm.

End plate installation

The end plate is installed on the end board and fastened to it with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 1000 mm. The plank is attached to the crate through the top of the roofing sheets, with self-tapping screws, at a distance of 400-800 mm. At the end of the installation of the end bar, it is necessary that it overlap the upper crest of the wave.

Installation technology of the ridge strip and seal

The universal seal is fixed before the direct installation of the ridge rail. To install it, it is necessary to remove the protective film and stick it at a distance of 25 mm from the edge of the ridge towards the middle. The ridge is fastened to the roofing sheet in every third longitudinal wave with self-tapping screws, with a minimum allowable overlap of 100 mm.

Installation of snow retainers

For long-term operation of gutters and in places of undesirable snow slope, snow retainers are installed. The snow retainer bar is attached under the second transverse pattern of the metal tile profile. The support angle is mounted under the bar on the profile and fixed with it to the crate with self-tapping screws of sufficient length. The lower edge of the snow-retaining strip is fastened with self-tapping screws to the roofing sheet at the top point through the wave.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video, which contains detailed instructions for laying metal tiles.

Metal tiles are often used as roofing material. It has achieved such popularity due to its excellent qualities, relatively simple and easy installation, unlike other roofing materials.

Today, a roof made of metal is very popular, which is used to cover houses, offices, shopping pavilions and cottages.

Knowing how to lay a metal tile, you can mount it in the shortest possible time reliable roof that will last for many years.

Delivery and storage

Scheme of storage of metal tiles: 1 - metal tiles; 2 - timber 200x200; 3 - rail 30x30.

Proper delivery of tiles to the site is the first necessary step before installation work. Loading and unloading of roofing material is carried out using wooden rafters. Transport should be chosen in large dimensions so that the sheets of metal tiles can fit in their entire length. To avoid deformation and damage, no load should be placed on the sheets.

Tiling sheets are only carried in a vertical position, and care must be taken not to form excessive bends. Do not drag material on the ground.

Shingles can be stored in rooms with minimal humidity. It is laid on wooden boards, leaving a distance of 20 cm from the ground, so the bottom layer will not be damaged or deformed.

Installation of the truss system

Scheme of the device of a roof from a metal tile.

Starting the installation of metal tiles, it is necessary to install a truss system. Among other roofing materials, tiles have some advantage - their installation does not require a special reinforced base. For her, a wooden crate made of boards is quite suitable. The old roof covering can not be dismantled, which will save a lot of time.

Sheets of metal tiles are attached to the crate with self-tapping screws, for them it is not necessary to drill holes. There are several types of metal tiles, each of which corresponds to a certain length of the crate step, so be careful when choosing it. In the event of a discrepancy between the step of the crate and the sheet of building material, the screws will not be screwed into the boards of the crate, but into the space under the roof. Thus, the stability of the roof structure will be violated, which will lead to its complete collapse. The choice of rafter pitch affects the selection of thermal insulation material, which should be decided in advance.

The presence of skylights also affects the size of the crate step. They must be noted in advance in the construction plan.

Installation of thermal insulation

Diagram of the arrangement of the elements of the ridge: 1 - additional laths of the crate; 2 - hydrobarrier; 3 - metal tile; 4 - wind board; 5 - ridge seal; 6 - skate bar.

The next step will be the insulation of the roof, which begins with the installation of a vapor barrier. It is carried out using a special vapor barrier film. Next, you can lay a heater on it.

Heat-insulating material in the form of plates must be positioned in such a way that the space between the rafters and the girders is filled with it. The insulation should be 200-250 mm thick.

From above, the insulating material is covered with a waterproofing film. It must be laid so that a slight sag is formed between the rafters of the crate. The film must be slightly released over the edges of the roof, so that the resulting condensate will drain into the drainage system. The waterproofing layer is securely fixed with a counter-lattice.

Installation of metal tiles

After completion of the preparatory work, you can proceed to the installation of roofing material. You should know how to properly lay metal tiles, and what tools are needed to carry out the work. You will need:

It is worth noting that it is strictly forbidden to use a grinder to cut a metal tile, since after it the zinc layer of the material is broken, those places where sparks hit will rust. For such operation is suitable a hacksaw with small teeth or nibblers.

Scheme of the device of the cornice and wind slats: 1 - crate; 2 - hydraulic barrier; 3 - metal tile; 4- plank of the eaves; 5 - wind protection bar; 6 - cornice seal; 7 - wind board; 8 - rafters; 9 - drainage system.

The worker must carry out installation in soft shoes to avoid mechanical damage to the roofing material.

Installation of metal tiles on the crate should begin with fixing several sheets of material with one self-tapping screw. And when the bottom layer of the tiles is completely aligned with the cornice, complete their fastening with additional self-tapping screws.

The choice of self-tapping screws is just as important as the choice of the roofing material itself. If you doubt their quality, then pay attention to the sealing head of the self-tapping screw, if it is rubber, then it is better not to use them for mounting metal tiles, since they have a short service life. The ideal option there will be a galvanized screw, the head of which is made of ethylene propylene rubber.

Its advantage is that when screwing in, the head of the screw is deformed and completely covers the gap, providing water resistance for many years.

Sheets of roofing material are not attached at the top of the wave, but at the bottom. non-compliance this rule leads to a distortion of the profile of the metal tile. The top of the wave is not strong enough to hold the material on the batten. And it can also cause the roof to rumble during strong winds.

After 3 months of operation of the roof, it is important to check the condition of the self-tapping screws, if necessary, they must be tightened or replaced.

How to lay metal tiles on the roof - laying rules

To cover various cottages, office buildings, private houses or trade pavilions, metal tile is quite often used. It has many advantages, in particular, strength, durability, ease of installation, as well as affordable price. In this article we will tell you how to properly lay metal tiles on the roof and what is the preliminary preparation for this process.

Transportation and storage conditions

During the transportation of metal tiles to the construction site, all conditions must be created so that the material does not deform. Wooden guides are used for loading and unloading the coating. It is desirable that the vehicle be large. Then the metal tile can be laid to its full length. Please note that no load may be placed on top of the material.

When transferring sheets of metal tiles from place to place, they must be held vertically, making sure that they do not bend. It is strictly forbidden to drag a metal tile along the ground.

If it is necessary to store sheets of metal tiles for some time, then there should be a minimum level of humidity in the room. Wooden blocks are placed below the material, laying them so that there is a gap of 20 cm to the ground.

Assembling the truss system

Before laying the metal tile on the roof, it is necessary to assemble a frame from the rafters under it. One of the advantages of the material is the absence of the need for a reinforced base. To lay the metal tile on the roof as best as possible, it is enough to take care of a perfectly even crate made of wooden slats. Please note that if there is an old roofing that is in good condition, you can not remove it, but install the metal tile directly on top of it.

Since it is possible to lay a metal tile and fix it with self-tapping screws, holes for them will not be needed. However, it is worth considering which of the types of metal tiles you have chosen for your roof. Depending on the type of material, you will need to choose the step of the crate. If the location of the waves on the metal tile and the pitch of the crate do not match, then the screws cannot be screwed into the wood, which will lead to further collapse of the roof. As for the location of the rafter legs, the distance between them should match the dimensions of the materials for thermal insulation. This nuance will need to be clarified in advance.

In residential attics, as a rule, windows are located. The presence of such elements must also be taken into account when choosing a step for the crate. Skylights must be included in the design of the house.

Laying a layer of thermal insulation on the roof

At the next stage, before laying metal tiles on the roof, you need to take care of the insulation of the roof and the attic. First of all, a vapor barrier film or membrane is laid. On top of this layer is placed insulating material.

Please note that the insulation in rolls or in the form of plates is placed in the cells between the rafters and girders in such a way as to fill the entire space. In this case, the thickness of the insulation should be about 20-25 cm.

To protect the insulation from moisture, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing. It is important that the film is not stretched too tight, but placed with some slack. In addition, a small overlap of the film should be made along the edges of the roof so that the accumulated condensate flows freely into the gutters. On top of the waterproofing, the slats of the counter-lattice are attached.

Method of laying metal tiles - how to lay correctly

Having dealt with all the preliminary work, we will consider how to properly lay the metal tile and what tools will be needed.

To complete the work you will need:

• device for cutting metal tiles;
• long wooden slats;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• tape measure and marker.

Please note that the grinder is completely unsuitable for cutting metal tiles, as it violates the integrity of the galvanized layer. In addition, in the event of sparks, the metal in these places begins to rust. The best option there will be the use of electric scissors or a hacksaw with small teeth.

In the process of work, it is possible to move along the roofing material only in soft shoes, so as not to damage its top layer.

Since it will not work right away to lay metal tiles over the entire surface of the roof, several sheets of material must first be laid with fixation on one self-tapping screw. After the flooring is perfectly aligned along the eaves, it can be finally fixed with the rest of the self-tapping screws.

Features of fastening sheets with self-tapping screws

It is worth noting that it is important to choose the right screws for fixing the roofing. It is better to choose fasteners with a rubber sealing head. Any other Consumables not suitable for metal tiles, and you should not buy them, because they are rather short-lived. Best Choice can be considered galvanized self-tapping screws equipped with an ethylene-propylene rubber head.

The beauty of these fasteners lies in the fact that at the moment of twisting, their head flattens and blocks the inlet, so that water does not penetrate under the roofing.

Fastening sheets of metal tiles should only be done in the lower wave. Otherwise, the shape of the profiles will be broken. In addition, the upper waves of the material do not have sufficient strength for reliable fixation on the crate. Moreover, improper fastening of metal tiles can cause excessive noise in windy weather.

Three months after laying the metal tile, it is worth diagnosing the state of the self-tapping screws. Where necessary, they need to be tightened or changed.

Laying and installation of metal tiles - a detailed guide

One of the important stages in the construction of the roof is the laying of metal tiles on the previously prepared crate. Today's technologies provide a wide range of materials, which makes it possible to quickly and efficiently build a roof of any complexity. High technology and precision in manufacturing turn the installation of metal tiles into an exciting process that even a non-professional can perform.

Roof system installation tools

Before the immediate crime to work, it is necessary to prepare the following tool: a tape measure, a mounting knife, a marker, a screwdriver with a nozzle for self-tapping screws, a cord, self-tapping screws, a long rail, a hammer, a nozzle for a drill for cutting metal, tools for cutting roofing materials.

The tools for cutting the roof are: an electric jigsaw, manual lever shears for metal (straight, right and left), a hacksaw for metal with small teeth, electric shears (punching).

After cutting the profile, the cut points must be painted over with a special can of paint. This will protect the zinc from further corrosion.

Cutting roofing material with an abrasive wheel or grinder is prohibited! With such cutting, not only the polymer coating is violated, but also the zinc itself, which will further lead to oxidation and corrosion.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

To calculate how much material is needed for laying metal tiles, it is necessary to measure the roof and take into account all the elements and protrusions, the number of rows that will be on the future structure. For this, a simple instruction is used, according to which it is easy to calculate the amount of material.

For example, the width of the roof slope is 6 meters. And the useful width of the profile (indicated by the manufacturer of the profile) is 1.11 meters (also called the effective length). The number of rows will be (6/1.11)=5.40, which when rounded gives us 5 rows.

The calculation of the length of the sheets and their number is made by measuring the length of the roof slope from the eaves to the ridge, plus the length of the overhang, which lies in the range of 40-50 mm, plus 150 mm (in the case of using several rows), which are minimal with a horizontal overlap.

For example, the measured length of a roof slope is 7 meters. Then the required length will be: 7 + 0.05 + 0.15 \u003d 7.2 meters (provided that two sheets are laid in a row).

Almost all manufacturers of metal tiles offer the customer to choose the length of the profile cutting. The maximum length does not exceed eight meters, but, as practice has shown, it is most convenient to use sheets no longer than 4-5 meters long. Therefore, in our examples above, the installation of metal tiles in two rows was used.

What you need to know when using a roof profile

Before laying a metal tile, you need to know that the implementation of the necessary simple rules will ensure the long-term service of the materials used.

Selection and installation of self-tapping screws

With the help of galvanized self-tapping screws, the profile is fastened to the crate. Therefore, the quality of self-tapping screws must be taken seriously, because the service life of high-quality fasteners is commensurate with the service life of metal tiles (30-50 years). To do this, choose special, branded self-tapping screws with the head of the required color and with a gasket made of EPDM (Ethylene-propylene-diene-monomer) - rubber.

They are fastened with a screwdriver or an electric drill with a reverse and a speed switch. If, during laying, an accidental damage to the layer of material occurs, then it is necessary to apply a masking aerosol can to the place of damage.

The tightening of the screws should be tight enough, but not so much as to push through the gasket.

Rules for fixing metal tiles

Before starting installation, all structural elements must be treated with an antiseptic. The technology of laying metal tiles and its fastening begins with lifting one sheet at a time to the roof. Depending on the height of the building, special lifting belts or logs are used, which are located from the ground to the edge of the roof.

With the length of the sheets of metal equal to the length of the slope, the first sheet is aligned along the end and the eaves of the roof. The profile is fastened using roofing screws with an EPDM gasket and a colored head. Dimensions 4.8×28 mm (in the case of a wooden crate) and 4.8×20 mm (for a metal crate). The required length of self-tapping screws ultimately depends on the type of profile and is specified by the supplier of the metal tile.

In the sole of the wave, in places of contact with the crate, self-tapping screws are screwed in a checkerboard pattern through one wave. The approximate consumption of self-tapping screws per square meter of the profile is 6-8 pieces.

If the metal tile is laid from left to right, then the edge of the second sheet is placed under the edge of the first and leveled. If from right to left, then it is correct to lay the second sheet overlapping on the first. Subsequent profiles must be laid similarly to the previous ones.

The first sheet is laid on the crate with an offset of 40-50 mm above the edge of the eaves and fastened with one temporary screw at the edge of the ridge and at the cornice with a self-tapping screw to the crate.

Next is the installation of the second profile sheet. To do this, it is necessary to accurately and tightly join the sheets to each other with a lateral longitudinal overlap so that there are no gaps and distortions. They are connected to each other by self-tapping screws 4.8 × 20 mm through the top of the wave, under the transverse wave of the profile. The connection starts from the eaves to the ridge.

In this way, three or four sheets of metal tiles are connected. A temporary self-tapping screw is unscrewed, installed on the first sheet near the ridge, and the entire block of profiles is aligned relative to the eaves.

A control measurement of the offset is made on both sides of the block. If the dimensions match, it is obvious that the sheet is aligned correctly, and it must be evenly fixed with one self-tapping screw to the crate. The remaining sheets are attached at the joints and to the crate.

After carrying out the installation work, the chips from drilling and cutting must be removed with a soft brush, and the damaged areas should be touched up with special paint.

In the case when the roof slope will consist of several rows, then it is necessary to correctly lay the roofing profile according to a different principle. In this case, sheet extension is used in the order shown in the figure below. The order of installation is determined by the drainage grooves on the longitudinal edges of the metal tile, connected with an overlap. When building up sheets of metal tiles, they are connected along the roof slope with an overlap of at least 150 mm and the sole of the longitudinal wave is attached to the crate.

The fixation of the transverse profile of the metal tile is carried out at the end of the transverse wave, or at the bottom of the longitudinal wave above the transverse wave without fixing to the crate. For this operation, self-tapping screws 4.8 × 20 mm (for metal) are used.

For a hip (hip) roof, installation begins from the highest point and then evenly on both sides according to the principles described above.

The capillary groove of each profile must be covered by the previous stacked sheet.

Skate mount

For the necessary ventilation of the attic space, it is necessary that the profile sheets do not converge under the ridge bar. The ridge is attached to the roofing with self-tapping screws, at the top of every second wave. In this case, the overlap of the planks is at least 10 cm in length. The installation of a semicircular ridge on a hip roof occurs with the help of Y-shaped overlays and tent caps.

Installation of the cornice strip

The cornice bar protects the frontal board from atmospheric precipitation and its further destruction. Planks are laid with a 50 mm overlap, galvanized nails, in increments of 300 mm.

Valley installation

The planks of the base for the valley are laid continuous at the level with the crate. A 20 mm gap must be observed between the valley planks to ensure ventilation. The cornice strip is cut off and mounted on the corners of the valley.

Next, the profile of the lower valley is set and cut to the shape of the cornice strip. Guides are drawn along the valley plank, like invisible borders of profile sheets. The recommended minimum distance between guide lines is 200 mm.

After laying the roof, along the entire length of the valley plank for aesthetic beauty, a decorative upper lining of the valley is laid. It is fixed in the upper bend of the wave of the metal tile with a step of 300-500 mm.

End plate installation

The end plate is installed on the end board and fastened to it with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 1000 mm. The plank is attached to the crate through the top of the roofing sheets, with self-tapping screws, at a distance of 400-800 mm. At the end of the installation of the end bar, it is necessary that it overlap the upper crest of the wave.

Installation technology of the ridge strip and seal

The universal seal is fixed before the direct installation of the ridge rail. To install it, it is necessary to remove the protective film and stick it at a distance of 25 mm from the edge of the ridge towards the middle. The ridge is fastened to the roofing sheet in every third longitudinal wave with self-tapping screws, with a minimum allowable overlap of 100 mm.

Installation of snow retainers

For long-term operation of gutters and in places of undesirable snow slope, snow retainers are installed. The snow retainer bar is attached under the second transverse pattern of the metal tile profile. The support angle is mounted under the bar on the profile and fixed with it to the crate with self-tapping screws of sufficient length. The lower edge of the snow-retaining strip is fastened with self-tapping screws to the roofing sheet at the top point through the wave.

Laying metal tiles: how to lay and correctly lay, video instruction on the technology of laying metal tiles

Technology of laying metal tiles. detailed instructions about how to lay metal tiles and lay them correctly along with video instructions

How to lay metal tiles: features of the work

The metal tile today is one of the most popular roofing materials. This is explained by the fact that the process of its installation is relatively simple compared to other types of roofing.

Observing the rules when installing a roof made of metal tiles, it is possible to mount reliable roof that will serve you for many years.

Transport and storage

At the very beginning of the installation of metal tiles, it is important to correctly deliver necessary material to the object. It is necessary to load and unload sheets of metal tiles with the help of wooden rafters.

Transport for the transportation of tiles is needed so that there is enough space for the entire length of the metal tile. Do not place various weights on top of the material to avoid damage and deformation of the tiles.

It is necessary to transfer sheets in a vertical position, to avoid excessive bends. It is strictly forbidden to drag sheets of metal tiles.

It is necessary to store the metal tile in dry rooms, laying it on wooden boards with a distance of 20 centimeters from the ground, in order to protect the material from damage, deformation of the lower protective layer.

We will learn how to lay metal tiles in the next part of the article.

Step one

We begin the installation of metal tiles with the installation of a truss system. Shingles have one small advantage among others building materials for the installation of a roof roof - for the installation of this material, no special reinforced base is needed, the usual lathing of boards is perfect for these purposes.

Metal tiles can also be installed on old coatings. It is necessary to fasten sheets of metal tiles to the crate with the help of special self-tapping screws, under which it is not necessary to drill holes in advance.

When choosing the step of the crate you need, it is worth considering that different kinds metal tiles are fitted to certain lengths of the lathing step.

Therefore, if you choose a crate step that does not correspond to the parameters of the selected metal tile, while screwing in the screws, they may not go into the crate boards, but into the under-roof space.

Thus, the stability of the structure is violated, and this can lead to the subsequent collapse of the entire roof structure.

The size of the selected insulating material also depends on the choice of the pitch of the rafters.

Based on this, it is worth knowing in advance what material will be used on your roof.

Dormer windows also affect the distance between the boards of the crate. Places of placement thereof must be noted in advance in the plan.

Step two. Roof insulation

After the installation of the truss system is completed, it is necessary to begin to mount the vapor barrier layer. For this, a special vapor barrier film is used, for example, "Yutafol" or "Izospan", after which a heater is laid.

We fill the space between the girders and rafters with insulation plates with an approximate thickness of 200 - 250 millimeters. Although this parameter depends on the calculations of the roof project, in most cases it is equal to this number.

The already installed insulation material is covered from above with a waterproofing layer. The film is laid so as to provide a slight sag between the boards of the crate.

The film must be released over the edges of the roof end to remove condensate into the gutter system. Then, on top of the already laid film, a counter-lattice is stuffed to securely fix it on the surface.

Everything is ready for installation!

Having completed everything preparatory work, you can start laying metal tiles.

How to lay a metal tile?

To qualitatively lay sheets of metal tiles, we must have some tools:

• screwdriver
• Metal tile cutting tool
• Marker
• Long rail
• Hammer
• Roulette

As a tool for cutting metal tiles, you can use electric nibblers, a hacksaw with small teeth.

After its use, many side effects remain, such as damage to the zinc layer, rusting of those places where hot sparks fell and damaged the paint layer.

When moving along the roof during installation, the worker must be in soft shoes, in order to avoid mechanical damage to the sheets of metal.

Equal to the cornice

How to properly lay a metal tile on the crate?

It is recommended at the beginning of installation to fix the first few sheets of material on the crate with just one self-tapping screw. And after finishing the alignment of the lower edges of the sheets along the cornice, fully complete the installation on the crate.

The choice of self-tapping screws for fixing metal tiles is no less important than the choice of the sheets of material themselves. If it seems to you that the self-tapping screws are not of high quality, then look at the sealing head on the self-tapping screw.

If rubber is found there, you should not use such self-tapping screws to fasten metal sheets to the crate, because they are not durable enough.

During the screwing of such a self-tapping screw, its head is deformed and closes the gap, which now no longer gets water for many years of operation.

The metal tile sheet should be fixed at the bottom of the wave, and not at the top.

Attempts to fix the metal tile sheet in the upper part of the wave lead to the collapse of the profile pattern of the metal tile sheet. The strength of the tiles in this place is not enough to properly hold the sheet on the crate. This often results in unpleasant by-effect in the form of a rumble of a roof at strengthening of a wind.

After 3 months of operation of the roof, it is better to check the condition of the screws, tighten them if necessary, and replace those that have become unusable.

In addition to the sheets of metal tiles themselves, various other necessary parts are installed on the roof - a ridge and a snow retainer.

The ridge is installed on the ridge board and fastened with self-tapping screws, while the overlap of the ridge on the sheets of metal tile in the amount of 100 mm must be observed.

The installation of a snow retainer must be approached with all seriousness. Indeed, during snowfalls, he will have to withstand quite significant loads. We fasten it to the roof at a short distance from the cornice with self-tapping screws in each wave.

How to lay metal tiles: installation instructions

In this article, we will try to convey to the reader information about correct installation material plain language and in the sequence in which it is recommended to install a metal roof.

Where to start with metal roofing

How to lay a metal tile? Naturally, after performing a qualitative calculation.

So, in order to calculate the number of required sheets of metal tiles for laying the roof, you need to calculate the metal tiles, namely, you need to divide the length of the roofing slope by the useful width (excluding overlap) of the metal sheet.

Roof marking based on the usable area of ​​metal sheets

This will determine the number of rows required to lay one row. Next, measure the width of the roof slope, add at least 40 mm to it per eaves outlet and divide the result by the useful length of the tile sheet, thereby finding out the number of required rows of tiles.

Then, multiplying the number of rows by the number of sheets in one row, the required number of sheets of metal tiles for the shelters of the specified roof slope is obtained.

Advice! The number of metal tiles for each slope should be calculated individually.

The metal roof covering is subject to condensation from the inside, for this reason it is necessary to provide under-roof waterproofing and good ventilation:

• The waterproofing carpet is mounted from the cornice to the ridge with an overlap, while a gap of at least 50 mm must be provided under the ridge to ensure the evaporation of accumulated moisture.
• Waterproofing is laid directly on the rafters or logs and additionally reinforced with a counter-lattice laid along the rafters.
• The crate under the metal tile is made in such a way that air can penetrate without obstacles from the eaves under the roof ridge.
• Ventilation holes are provided at the highest point of the roof.
• Unheated attics are ventilated through the end windows. With a lack of natural ventilation, means of forced ventilation can be provided.

Installation of the crate under the metal tile

Before laying the metal tile, you will need to prepare a reliable base for the roofing:

• When performing the crate, boards 30 * 100mm are used. They are mounted at a certain interval, which depends on what type of tile is used in the work. The pitch, as a rule, is from 300 to 400 mm.
• When installing the crate, the board facing the cornice is chosen 10-15 mm thicker in comparison with the rest.
• The lathing is fastened across the direction of the rafters with the help of self-tapping screws, screwing it to the bars of the counter-lattice.
• The end plate is arranged above the crate to the height of the wave crest of the profiled sheet. It is nailed to the rafters with galvanized nails.
• The cornice strip is attached before the installation of the roofing sheets. Fastening is also carried out with galvanized nails with a pitch of 300 mm.
• For a more reliable fastening of the ridge bar, two additional bars of the crate are nailed onto it.

The process of installing sheets of metal

So, how to lay a metal tile correctly, we will tell in the form of the following rules:

• In some cases, cutting sheets of metal tiles is required. To do this, use special scissors or hacksaws for metal.
• They begin to cover the gable roof from the end, while the hipped roof - on both sides from the highest points of the slope.
• Metal tile flooring starts from both the right and left ends, providing for an overlap along the length of the slope in one wave.
• The edge of the sheet is set parallel to the cornice and fixed with a protrusion of 40 mm relative to it. If the length of the sheets corresponds to the width of the slope, then it is recommended to fasten three or four sheets to each other, then fasten them on the ridge with one screw, followed by alignment strictly along the eaves and fastening already along the entire length.
• Self-tapping screws equipped with a sealing washer are screwed into the deflections of the waves of profiled sheets under the transverse fold. For each square meter of coating, there should be approximately 8 such screws. As for the edges, the sheet is attached to them in every second recess of the waves.
• The overlap along the length of the sheets is about 250 mm.

Advice! Before you properly lay the metal tile, you should understand that it is not recommended to cut the material with a grinder. This tool leads to strong heating of the sections at the cutting point, which can lead to a violation of the protective layer of the material and, as a result, to corrosion of this place during further operation.

Cutting sheets with an electric jigsaw for metal

• Places of overlaps and through holes are recommended to be treated with silicone sealant.
• At cold roof when there is no roofing cake, as such, they can be used as additional waterproofing sealing tapes, which are laid under the ridge and other joints of the metal tile.
• For the device of internal joints, a standard groove bar is used. The overlap of sheets on the plank is usually at least 150mm, and the seams require additional sealant treatment.
• Snow guards are attached under the second transverse decorative fold starting from the cornice, approximately 35 mm from it. The snow holder is fastened with large screws through the sheet to the crate beam. The lower edge of the element is connected to the profile sheet on every second wave in the same way, but with screws of the usual size.
• The installation of elements passing through the roof (various kinds of communications) is carried out according to the instructions that are included in the installation kit for this element. Each gap between the roofing sheets and the passage elements is carefully sealed. Heavy elements are fastened to the crate.

On this, the instructions for the installation of a roofing deck made of metal tiles can be considered completed. By strictly following these rules, you will definitely achieve the desired result - you will get a reliable and durable roof.