How to make a shower cabin with your own hands: execution options. Homemade shower cabins at half price: beautiful, simple, and “not like everyone else. Make a shower with your hands in the house

In the implementation there are a large number of different shower trays. They are quickly mounted, affordable for the absolute majority of users, and are quite practical to use. But experienced plumbers do not recommend installing such devices in bathrooms.

Simplified construction works, the amount of unproductive waste of expensive floor tiles is reduced. It is much faster to do the markings, it is possible to completely align the tile joints on the walls and floor.
Fewer tiles need to be cut. Due to this, construction time is reduced and, as a result, savings are achieved financial resources customer.
The cleaning process is performed in one step at the same time as washing the bathroom floors. Most shower trays are made of plastic and can react negatively with certain detergents.
The operating time of the shower cabin increases. Over time, all plastics lose their original plasticity, the material becomes brittle. With insignificant mechanical forces, cracks appear that cannot be repaired. The plastic pallet needs to be completely replaced, and this is not only a big loss of time, but also money.
The comfort and safety of using the shower room is increased. The floor is located on the same level, there is no need to step over artificial obstacles, which is especially important for children and the elderly.
Users can independently adjust the size of the shower room. Moreover, it should be changed not once, but as needed. The space for the shower room can be fenced off with a curtain, it is not a problem to re-hang it to a new place.

The cladding of the walls of the room does not constitute any problems, the technology is common and does not differ in any way from the widely used one. Some difficulties may appear during the arrangement of the floors. Each type of plum has its own characteristics, but there are general recommendations for all.

The optimum slope of the floor surface is 1 cm per running meter... If the slope is greater, then the comfort of taking water procedures is significantly reduced, and the risk of injury increases.
The smaller the floor tiles are, the easier it is to work with them. Pay attention, not faster, but easier. The fact is that during the finishing of the floor with a slope, inconsistencies appear at the corners of the tiles, the size of the inconsistencies is directly related to the dimensions of the tiles. Experienced professionals strongly recommend using mosaic tiles, with its help you can join sections with different angles of inclination. And such situations arise when, for various technological reasons, the water drain cannot be installed exactly in the center of the shower.
The drainage system in most cases is not available for periodic maintenance and renovation works... In this regard, it is recommended to be very careful about its installation, to strictly follow the recommendations of the manufacturers, to check the tightness of the joints several times.
Much better finish with tiles, start from the drain. If done in the opposite direction, then the drain may be in the middle of the tile; it is impossible to cut an even hole in this place. We'll have to join in segments, and this is very ugly and indicates the low qualifications of the performer.
Always buy building materials with a stock, depending on the qualifications of the contractor and the complexity of the configuration of the premises, the stock ranges from 5-10%. Use only quality materials, attempts to save too much can cause significant material losses.

The water is removed into a drain or channel. The ladder is placed approximately in the center of the shower room, the channel is installed at one of the walls of the room. For example, we will consider the most common option for a shower without a tray - a drain (ladder) is located in the middle of the shower.

Table. Types of shower drains

shower drains

Layout and preparation of the base

A very important stage of construction, it is difficult to correct the mistakes made, you need to carefully follow all the recommended operations.

Step 1. Bring the sewer to the location of the shower compartment. For laying, the wall will have to be gouged, the diameter of the pipe for draining the water in the shower is 50 mm. The exit of the pipe from the wall should be located in the center of the section, in order to achieve this position, the plastic pipe should be cut.

Practical advice. You shouldn't be looking for great precision. The fact is that the socket joint of the elbow makes it possible to slightly adjust the position of the outlet. The fine adjustment range is ± 1–1.5 cm, which is quite enough to eliminate oversights.

Step 2. If there is no screed for floor coverings in the room, then determine the level of the zero mark. The front part of the ceramic tile is located at the zero mark, all dimensions lying below are indicated with a minus sign. Those on top are indicated with a plus. This applies to all indications of the level of the location of architectural elements during the construction of various buildings and premises, such standards apply in construction drawings.

Step 3. Set the laser level and adjust it so that the beam is in the middle of the sewer pipe located in the wall.

Place the ladder in the intended place of installation and correct its position so that the axis of the inlet pipe is slightly higher than the beam. For example, if it is located at a distance of one meter, then the height difference should be approximately one centimeter.

Practical advice. Do not slope too much, the water will drain perfectly. And the large slope of the floor tiles causes a deterioration in the comfort of taking water procedures.

When placing the ladder, take into account the height of the glass; when assembled, the drain device will be slightly higher due to the upper platform. The thickness of the top plate of the glass is about a centimeter. Make a mark one centimeter above the beam on the wall, this will be the level of the drain hole of the drain to be installed.

Step 4. Make marks about 2.5 cm above the beam to tilt the surface. The mark indicates at what level the ceramic tiles will lie against the wall of the room. The same marks should be made around the entire perimeter of the shower stall. The thickness of the ceramic tiles is within five millimeters, it can be disregarded, there will be no noticeable effect on the quality of the pallet. The total thickness of the screed will be a little over twenty centimeters. This indicator needs to be known to determine the amount of cement-sand mortar for pouring and screed base.

Step 5. By the rays laser level make marks with a pencil, then beat off lines on them with a rope with blue.

How to make a base

Specific materials and technologies must be selected taking into account the total concrete thickness. In our case, the layer height exceeds twenty centimeters, which is quite a lot. To simplify and reduce the cost of work, we offer the following technology.

A screed can be made of cement-sand mortar with expanded clay to the level of joining of the drain pipe with the sewer pipe. Due to the use of expanded clay, the amount of cement is reduced, work is simplified and the floor under the shower is additionally insulated. The solution should be prepared in the following proportions: for one part of cement, one part of sand and two parts of expanded clay. Water on demand.
A layer of waterproofing is laid on the frozen mortar, and on top is a plate of extruded polystyrene foam about five centimeters thick.
The last layer is a cement-sand screed for ceramic tiles. The thickness is about five centimeters, it is advisable to use a semi-dry solution. It is much easier to work with it, there is an opportunity to save materials and time. In addition, such a screed has two more advantages: a low thermal conductivity coefficient compared to ordinary concrete and a short curing time.

Mark the lines on the wall along all the layers, it makes no sense to stick to them exactly, but such marks are useful for orientation.

Important. Before pouring the solution, be sure to waterproof the joints of the floor and walls. Use any existing materials and technologies for this. Practitioners recommend using liquid mastics and special waterproofing tapes made of nonwoven materials. Their cost is insignificant, and their efficiency is at the proper level.

Before starting pouring, a set of special construction measures should be performed to connect the drain, we will talk about them below. The base must be completely hardened, only then can the top tiles be laid.

How the drain is connected

Before starting construction work, carefully study what parts the ladder consists of. This knowledge will help you to correctly solve the questions that arise during the pouring and avoid mistakes when marking.

Step 1. Determine the exact location of the ladder using a tape measure.

It is advisable to install it in the middle of the shower room, but with some adjustment. We have already mentioned above that the edges of the ladder must abut against the edges of the tile, otherwise there will be great difficulties during its cutting. And the cut tiles in the center of the floor look very ugly.

Practical advice. If the tiles in the room have already been laid, and only the area under the shower room remains to be completed, then the position of the ladder must accurately take into account the location of the tile joints.

The cut tiles should be placed against the walls, where they are less conspicuous. If you are unable to align the position of the outlet of the drain and the sewer pipe, no problem. Due to the rubber seals, the device can be slightly shifted to one side or the other.

Are these adjustments not enough? The problem will have to be solved by bending the plastic pipes. How to bend them? Gently heat the plastic pipe with a construction hairdryer around the entire circumference, constantly control its temperature by hand. Once the plastic is soft, start slowly bending the pipe in the desired direction. Make sure that there are no sharp bends. Hold the pipe in the desired position until the plastic cools. In order to speed up the cooling process, the pipe can be cooled with a wet cloth.

Step 2. Make the formwork for the ladder. It can be made from OSB board, plywood or moisture-resistant drywall. Before starting production, temporarily connect the assembled drain to the sewer pipe and install it in place. Take off the dimensions of the formwork. The distance between it and the elements of the ladder should be only a few centimeters. This technological distance is required to facilitate the final assembly of the drain.

Knock down the formwork with small nails or self-tapping screws, the height of the formwork should be several centimeters higher than the diameter of the pipelines connected to the ladder.

Step 3. Place the assembled formwork on the ceiling, check its position according to the lines drawn on the wall. To prevent displacement of the structure during pouring with concrete, it is recommended to fix it. You can drive in several nails or dowels around the perimeter, the main thing is that the formwork does not change its location during work.

Step 4. Prepare a cement-sand mortar. If possible, use expanded clay as additional fillers, if not, fill it with one solution. Pour it in turn on each side of the formwork and carefully level the plane with a trowel.

Step 5. Check the correct filling, allow time for hardening. The time depends on the composition of the solution used; in most cases, work can be continued one day after the end of the pouring.

Step 6. When the mortar has frozen, dismantle the formwork. To do this, carefully beat off the formwork parts with a hammer, try not to damage the fill. If during dismantling it was found that the solution often did not gain minimum strength - stop dismantling and wait another day.

Important. If the room is very warm and dry, then the solution should be moistened with plenty of water every day. Chemical reactions cannot proceed optimally without water, the solution will never gain the planned strength.

Step 7. Place the ladder in the prepared place, check its position.

Most devices have height-adjustable feet, which greatly simplifies the installation of equipment. Connect the outlet of the drain to the sewer pipe. The set of the device includes a plastic pipe for this purpose. Measure the required length and cut.

You can cut with a grinder with a disc for metal or a hacksaw. After cutting, be sure to remove the burrs and make a chamfer. Burrs are cut with a sharp knife; you can make a chamfer with a grinder. Hold it in one hand and gently place the end of the pipe against the flat surface of the disc with the other. Rotate the pipe continuously and chamfer it. Do not be upset if the width of the chamfer is not the same around the entire circumference, this parameter has no value. The chamfer is only needed so that the rubber seal is not damaged during the connection of the elements. Surfaces should be wet with soapy water or any oil before joining.

Practical advice. In some models of ladders, the branch pipes are connected with glue, this somewhat simplifies the installation process. There is no need to make chamfers, the ends of the pipes are greased with glue and inserted into each other.

Glue application (on both sides of the nozzle)

Step 8. Cover the surface with waterproofing. It can be purchased separately, but there are options for completing devices with waterproofing. Level the surface of the material, be sure to bend it at the junction of the floor and walls. The hem should be 1–1.5 cm lower than the surface of the ceramic tile.

Step 9. Check the tightness of the connections. To do this, pour water into the drain hole, wait a little and inspect all connections. Water must completely go into the sewer pipe, and the surface under the drain elements must remain dry.

Step 10. Cut off any excess waterproofing according to the height of the fold. At the extreme points, make marks and end assembly knife remove the excess under the ruler. Attach the bends to the wall with waterproofing mastic, allow time to dry completely. The length of the overlaps in the corners must be at least 10 cm.

Step 11. Insert a plastic cup into the drain.

Manufacturers specially make its height with a margin, which allows, if necessary, to reduce the element. Determine the slope of the floor plane using a level and adjust the glass to the required height to ensure the required value. Cut with a hacksaw for metal, file or knife to remove the burrs. Lubricate the outer surfaces of the beaker with oil, put on the rubber O-ring and push the element back into place. Cover the hole with a temporary cover. It does not allow the solution to get inside, and is removed after laying the tiles.

Glass fixing

Step 12. Apply marks on the folded waterproofing, along which the screed for the base of the ceramic tile will be made. Do not forget about the slope, check the markings several times.

Step 13. Prepare a screed solution, pour it in stages onto the waterproofing. Start leveling the plane with a trowel. This is the most difficult operation for beginners. The fact is that you need to simultaneously make a slope and break the square into four identical segments.

How it's done?

When leveling the mortar, pay attention to the marks on the wall. This is the first line of control. The second is the edge of the ladder, the screed should be about a centimeter below the upper plane.
With a level, check the horizontalness of the screed along all the edges of the section, if necessary, correct the deviations.
Use the tip of a trowel to draw straight lines from each corner of the ladder to the corner of the floor. If your hand is difficult, then use any long, straight ruler.
Using a trowel, slowly remove the mortar in small portions on each segment, try to remove the existing curves. Keep in mind that you will have to work by sight, do not rush. If you see mistakes, then again sketch out the solution and start all over again.

Do not be discouraged if it does not work out the first time, experience will appear over time and the work will go much faster. At the finish, you can use a special float, it has one end in the form of a triangle. If there is no such tool, then pick up any rail according to the length. The dimensions of the rail should be 1–2 cm less than the distance from the ladder to the wall. Set the plank in the center of the segment, let one end rest against the ladder, and with the other slowly lead to the left / right and in this way level the surface. A small bump against the wall is then trimmed with a float. Everything is fine - leave the base to solidify.

Laying the finishing tiles

If the base is made with high quality, then there will be no big problems with laying the tiles. Before laying tiles on the floor, finish off the wall sections that adjoin the floor. The technology is ordinary, to maintain the same width of tile joints, use standard crosses.

Step 1. First, the second tile is laid. Its angle should lie at a distance of 2-3 mm from the line of dividing the square into segments. The distance depends on the width of the seams and is selected in each case individually, taking into account the characteristics of the materials.

Video - Laying tiles in the shower

How to make a shower cabin with your own hands? This issue is subject to detailed consideration. It can be arranged in any form. In this matter, it is worth starting from your own preferences and financial capabilities.

Before the direct organization of the bathing place, it is worth weighing the pros and cons, and also choosing a very suitable material. A few words about popular options for shower products in the bathroom.

Do-it-yourself work can involve the use of any purchased materials, and the owner of the house is also able to make everything, taking into account his tastes, without acquiring the basis for the design. See the prestigious cab options below.

Acrylic, plastic, polycarbonate

The polycarbonate shower enclosure is considered the most popular in use. If you decide to purchase a bottom of this type, then you will avoid problems with the waterproofing of the floor, and its surface will not be slippery, so there is no need to use a rubber mat. There is no need to equip the ladder and raise the floor level.

Glass panels, glass blocks, ceramics

All of these materials are quite fragile, but their use can solve the problem with an unfinished design. Usually, such raw materials are bought by sash for decorating a standing shower. In addition, such materials are perfectly combined with erected pallets and half-wall tiles and mosaics. A full-fledged shower cabin can be made with your own hands from tiles.

Wood, plastic, artificial stone

Such shower structures are rarely installed in apartments, due to their susceptibility to moisture, however, in summer cottages, this material is very popular. Its advantages are that it is aesthetic and harmless to humans. A plastic home-made shower stall well insulates the surrounding room from noise, and also poorly permeates moisture to the outside. Fake diamond looks very impressive, especially if a chic design in an individual style is invented in the bathroom.

Why cabins? Main advantages

More and more often, bathing cabins are installed in the house, fully equipped in-house. Such designs have a number of justifying characteristics:

Note! If you think that a fully equipped shower room without a pallet with your own hands will cost less - this is a misconception. Most likely, you will need to invest a little more, but in the future, when taking water procedures, you will feel the abundance of all functions.

Preparatory stage

Planning work in the apartment with your own hands or preparatory stage are necessary in order to take into account all the nuances, as well as in order to make the shower cabin from the photo tile (see below +++) without flaws. However, starting work on the arrangement, you will have to work very hard, namely, provide for absolutely everything, from the sewage system to the accessories for the shower stall.

Purchase of materials

Start with raw materials. Be sure to buy, cement mortar, sand, tiles (non-slip), tile glue, pipelines for laying water supply and sewerage systems. Check for all sealants, rubber bands and connectors. This is necessary if you will do everything yourself, including pallets. Otherwise, buy a ready-made bottom from a suitable material and all the accessories for it.

Availability of accessories

You should definitely choose faucets, watering cans, functional levers according to your tastes, of course, relying on how the shower stall will be built. It's a great idea to place a tropical rain shower head in a standing shower, but first you have to think about how to stabilize the water pressure if you have problems with this. Such a shower stall with their own hands has a variety of photos.

Site preparation

You need to start preparing the corner just before installation. This applies to all types of installation (do it yourself or using a purchased shower). Please note that using ready-made trays for a standing shower, you need a perfectly flat floor surface, and if you plan to build a booth without a bottom, you should do minimum slope and bring it down to the ladder in the floor.

Sash of the future shower

For each type of shower structure, you have to choose the sash separately. Some will be interested in a glass, plastic or wooden model, while others, on the contrary, tend to choose cheaper analogs: a frame with a film or tiled walls... Thus, a shower without a shower is obtained.

Installation of a shower without a tray

Let's make shower cabins without a pallet step by step.

Note! All compounds and materials, including tile adhesive and tiles, must be water-repellent. Of course, they will cost more, but you cannot save on this.

Advice! To form the walls in a stand-alone shower without a tray, it is better to choose a non-blotting opaque film or water-repellent fabric.

We put a shower in a wooden house

Although wood is a natural material, it is quite capricious. However, a shower stall can be successfully equipped with its own hands in wooden house... The main thing is to first take care of high-quality waterproofing.

Preparation moment

This includes everything related to the procurement of funds and equipment. Be sure to plan the space in the bathroom. It will be better if a do-it-yourself shower stall with a pallet is placed in the corner, and tempered or ordinary glass or polycarbonate is the best raw material for the construction.

Construction of a shower cabin

Here you will need to pre-treat the adjacent surfaces in a private house with a moisture-repelling agent. Then the water supply and sewer systems are equipped sewage systems, do not forget about the ventilation of the room. In this case, a stationary device will not be enough, since the tree is very quickly able to absorb moisture and steam.

We put a not very deep acrylic base, and we make the sashes from polycarbonate. We make all four sides so that the walls of the wooden structure are less exposed to moisture. To do this, we purchase fasteners and a nickel-plated frame (it can be made of stainless steel). We fasten all the clips to the walls of the room, taking into account the height of the future shower.

Note! To equip a shower in a private house, it is better to use polycarbonate that is not exposed to temperature, otherwise, the surfaces will begin to deform, and a shower cabin without a pallet with your own hands will eventually collapse.

Next, we attach the door to the awnings or hang the usual shower film. Just in case, insulate the wood in the bathing room again. A built-in shower will look good in such rooms.

Regardless of what type of shower structure will be made, it is easier to make it with your own hands, since the owner will know what components he used.

The task of the shower tray siphon is to quickly and efficiently drain the water after bathing. However, not all drain devices are one ...

Shower cubicle arranged with my own hands, will not only make your stay more comfortable, but also save money. Homemade boxing will save you from the costs of attracting third-party and not always conscientious workers. Equally important is the moral satisfaction received from the results of one's work. Isn't it true?

We will tell you how a shower cabin should be built in a private house with our own hands, we will help in choosing the optimal plumbing device. We will show you how to develop a project and bring the idea of \u200b\u200bbuilding a hygienic homemade product to life.

In our article, we describe the process of building and arranging a shower step by step. The technology for installing the booth and connecting it to the sewer largely depends on the chosen modification of the pallet.

Before proceeding directly to the description of the assembly process, we will briefly consider the main types of shower stalls available for sale, the criteria for their selection.

Variety of models: which is better to choose

The shower enclosure is simple construction from the pallet and curtains. Instead of walls, which are typical for a full-fledged shower stall, the walls of the room are used. The ceiling shower enclosure not. Its main advantages are low cost and compactness.

The shower enclosure is one of the simplest, most convenient and cheapest models of shower stalls, takes up a minimum of space and is suitable for self-assembly

The more sophisticated models have a roof and walls. Expensive multifunctional units have rich technical equipment: Turkish bath or Sharko shower, scented steam mode, different types of hydromassage, additional functions, various lighting.

An expensive model of a shower cubicle with a hydromassage function, lighting and a deep tray. Requires not only sufficient space for installation, but also the necessary pressure in the water supply

Such booths are controlled by a complex electronic system. Before buying an expensive booth equipped with a hydromassage function, you first need to find out the level of water pressure in the pipes.

Combined showers are a kind of compromise for those who like to take a bath with hydromassage and have a full-fledged shower at home. The combined models are distinguished by their original and stylish design - they are often positioned on the market as home spa centers.

It is to the pallet of the product that increased requirements are imposed. A high-quality pallet must withstand a heavy load, and with the maximum permissible user weight, it must not crack, bend or deform.

Shower trays are made from different materials.

What are the curtains?

The second most important element is the cab curtains, which can be hinged and sliding. Hinged doors require more space. They are single-leaf and double-leaf.

As for the sliding curtains, they have from two to six wings, which are held by a rubber magnetic tape. The curtains move on rollers hidden inside the shower stall frame. High-quality curtains should open and close almost silently.

Corner shower cubicle with sliding doors. In addition to models with transparent plastic (glass), there are options with frosted curtains

Curtains for shower stalls are made of polystyrene or high quality tempered glass. Polystyrene products are quite cheap and lightweight, but they quickly lose their transparency, and stains remain on them.

Glass curtains are expensive, high quality products.

Hinged doors from hardened frosted glass... In their manufacture, specially processed safety glass is used, which surpasses even automotive glass in strength

Water and dirt are very easily washed off the glass surface - the material does not absorb anything and does not tarnish over the years. You can also buy a booth with curtains made of classic transparent, tinted, colored and rough glass.

Shower room project development

Despite the seeming technical complexity, the independent construction of a shower stall, in fact, is quite a feasible procedure for a simple layman, especially for a hard-working owner.

As the construction of any capital structure begins with the development of a project, and before starting work on equipping a shower in a private house with your own hands, you need to think over.

It is advisable to outline the basic plans and schemes on paper, for example:

a plan for placing a shower cabin in a designated room;
connection diagrams to power supply, water supply and sewerage networks;
the procedure for equipping a shower room with a ventilation system.

The preparation of the shower room and the installation of the cabin in it is carried out in several stages.

Full-fledged shower cabins, which can be found in any hardware store, are not always convenient to use. The quality, small internal dimensions, high price are lame. In this article, we will tell you in detail and show how to make a shower cabin with your own hands: from the device of the pallet and drain, to the installation of doors and finishing with tiles.

Such a booth (shower enclosure) will be cheaper, better quality and more convenient!

Shower cabins are of several types, for example, the most popular options are - flat pallet or simple floor drain. In this case, children and the elderly can freely enter the booth. The space in the bathroom in the apartment will significantly increase in size and the space will take on a different look.

In a narrow room, a built-in cabin of suitable dimensions would be an excellent option, for the device of which you only need curtains or glass doors. It is inexpensive, practical and convenient.

Shower cabin without pallet (tile pallet)

When planning a place for water treatments, please note that the use of shower trays is not always the best rational decision... Even at the stage of repair, it is much easier and more reliable to make a shower room with a tile tray.

An example is showers located in fitness centers. The same floor can be done in a private house or in the country. When installing the drain ( professionals call him a ladder) a sewer pipe is brought to the place where the drain is installed, the border of the shower room is lined with bricks, and its inner part is filled with concrete and waterproofed.

The advantages of this shower option:

convenient cleaning of the floor surface after a shower;
Maximum reliability of all elements and plumbing (we select it ourselves);
the possibility of stumbling anywhere is reduced to "no";
the ability to choose any size of the cabin in accordance with the room.

See also: with photos and comments about convenience.

Using flat shower trays in the floor

Shower trays are alternative option... It is cheaper, but at the same time, it is not so convenient and reliable. You can choose a shower base with low sides, including acrylic ones.

The location of the sewer pipe will depend on where the drain hole is on the pallet. Therefore, you need to take care of the laying of communications (water supply and sewerage pipes) in advance.

The installation process is straightforward. There are adjustable feet under the base.

Ready-made shower trays are an easier option, but someone will find it less aesthetic and convenient. Such pallets are sold in almost any plumbing store, they are easy to install and do not require special knowledge during installation.

Advantages of finished pallets:

easy and quick assembly using prefabricated parts;
pallet height adjustment with legs;
the use of a special border for sealing joints;
Possibility to install on wooden floor, with preliminary protection from moisture.

The disadvantages include: outdated appearance, unreliable materials that can sag and even break over time.

Self-assembly instructions

The technology of creating a shower cabin with your own hands occurs in stages. In progress installation works, it is very important to comply with all requirements for the reliability of communications and waterproofing.

Brick pallet

Before installing the pallet itself, you must perform preparatory work with a base. If the room was not previously done concrete screed, it must be done. After the rough screed has dried, the place intended for the location of the pallet must be treated with waterproofing. It is usually processed in 2 layers with an interval of 4-6 hours.

As waterproofing material some use a plastic film, but this is fundamentally wrong. Better to give preference to bituminous mastic. Insulation technology involves applying the material not only to the base of the floor, but also to the walls in places where it gets wet ( therefore, you need to take care of this even at the stage of repair, before laying tiles on the walls).

After that, experts recommend forming the screed once again, and re-waterproofing. At the same time, it is important to leave 1-2 centimeters in height from the point of discharge, because in the future, it will be necessary to form a finishing screed and finish it with tiles.

Layering of the work performed provides a high level of protection against leaks, to the rooms below. Also, in this case, resistance to the formation of fungi, mold, and other harmful microorganisms increases.

to create more comfortable operating conditions, at the first stages of creation, it is worth taking care of heating. It can be represented by a warm floor system, under a rough screed, or a sheet of expanded polystyrene. In the latter case, it should be borne in mind that the entire structure will rise in level by several centimeters.
each stage should be accompanied by geometry checks;
strengthening the base can be done with a metal mesh embedded in the screed.

After the screed and waterproofing are dry, you can start pouring the self-leveling mixture. This layer is also primed and waterproofed. It is on the quality of this layer that all the characteristics of the structure depend.... To achieve maximum performance, attention needs to be paid to the corners and seam around the drain.

The jellied floor solution must be made a little thicker than usual in order to be able to form a slope towards the drain.

According to standard technology, the sides of the pallet are one brick high, but if desired, they can be made higher. The main thing is to ensure that during the shower, the water does not exceed the height of the fence.

Plum formation

observance of a slope of 3 degrees, in the area where the drain is connected to the sewer pipes. This angle is sufficient to ensure the optimal water flow rate, and the risks of blockage and water stagnation are minimized.
tightness of all connecting elements;
for the drain system, it is better to give preference to high-quality plastic pipes and fittings, since they are not subject to corrosive processes and external influences;
rigid fixation of the drain ladder. Pouring with concrete is carried out only after the reliability of the fastening of the system has been checked.

Pallet finishing with tiles

The technique of laying tiles in a pallet is not much different from a standard finish, but there are some peculiarities. First of all, they relate to the choice of adhesive mixture. It must meet all moisture resistance criteria. The same parameters must correspond to the material for processing the seams.

Tiling technology:

the start of laying occurs from the corner;
the application of the adhesive solution is carried out with a notched trowel in order to achieve the necessary evenness;
the mixture is applied to the base, not to the tile;
the tile is fixed by pressing it to the base;
alignment is carried out by tapping with a mallet;
special crosses provide the same thickness of seams.

Often, mosaic tiles are chosen for homemade booths, because it makes it easier to work with corners and smooth transitions.

Glass walls and doors

After all the work on the formation of the shower tray with your own hands has been completed, you can proceed to fastening the walls and doors of the future design. To do this, in hardware stores, you need to initially select the elements that are optimal in size.

Manufacturers present a wide range of glass walls and doors:

beveled - products with edges original form, through the use of special processing technology;
curved - stencil glass;
stained glass - the finished product is glued together from elements of different sizes and colors;

The easiest to install are hinged doors. Their installation does not require special knowledge and sophisticated accessories. Hinges are already included with glass doors, so you just need to correctly install their supporting parts on the wall.

In this process, it is very important to carry out the appropriate measurements so that the door does not cling to the pallet, or a gap does not form ( against the wall, and between the door and the edge of the pallet). Having measured the distance from the edges of the door to the center of the hinges, these dimensions must be transferred to the walls. After that, using a drill, holes are made in the marked areas.

Upon completion of all work, the supporting part of the hinge is screwed into the wall, so that the pin is located with the open part up. This arrangement is necessary for the smooth fitting of the doors.

A do-it-yourself shower cubicle in a private house saves you on a hot day, which is especially critical for hot summer weather in our country. Often, the cost of ready-made options exceeds all acceptable limits. It is difficult to take into account all the rules when creating such a design. An amateurish approach leads to mistakes and restructuring.

The article contains information:

what types of cabins are there, their structure and materials of manufacture;
basic approaches to waterproofing methods, communications;
how to make a cab without using expensive materials or purchased parts;
features of the selection of the door for the size of the cabin.

Shower cabin device

A do-it-yourself shower cabin in a private house saves space and time while taking a shower. It has a large number of additional functions that are absent in conventional baths - hydromassage, rain shower.

Devicethe cabin consists of:

the pallet in which the drain is located;
walls;
doors or curtains;
shower system - watering can, tap and others;
optional - ceiling, if you want to limit the drain.

The pallet serves as a drain and “floor” for the shower stall - this will be discussed in detail below, in two relevant paragraphs.

The walls limit the space - they prevent water from entering the cabin into the rest of the room. They are made both transparent and opaque, creating a highlight. The walls are made of different materials - glass, plastic or acrylic. Sometimes they are replaced with curtains, like the door.

The shower system is varied - it includes an ordinary hand shower, a ceiling, "tropical" shower, and different types of hydromassages. A frequent occurrence is a ceiling shower and a hand shower with additional points and conventional control knobs on the same panel.

The presence of a ceiling depends on the height of the ceiling in the room itself and the installation of various elements of the shower system in it. If necessary, create a second, "false" ceiling, in which there are cranes or pipes, or the cabin is bounded from above by panels.

With pallet

Shower cabins with a pallet are a classic version of the device. Sold in stores as finished products. The sump contains a water drain and other equipment that increases the comfort of use, such as floor heating.

Do-it-yourself shower cabins with a pallet are easy to make from acrylic, plastic - any materials that are resistant to water. Making the cab bottom out of the floor is not the case.

Some pallets produced by the manufacturer for self-creation of a finished structure have a serious disadvantage - incorrect calculation of the legs or savings in production lead to low stability. A plus is the ability to move the cab in the future.

Without pallet

The palletless versions are distinguished by their installation directly on the floor of the room. The space is pre-prepared - they are laid out with tiles and the drain is realized. This solution has both positive aspects (greater strength and complete stability) and negative (the impossibility, if necessary, to move the shower stall).

To prepare the floor, several sequential processes are carried out:

Prepare a sewerage system to drain water falling into the niche.
Make waterproofing and place trim over insulation.

It is not possible to create a floor for a shower stall on every foundation - a wooden one, using a harness made of wood, will simply rot.

Table: the main differences between showers with and without a shower tray

Characteristic	With pallet	Without pallet
Tightness	High	Low
Injury risk	High	Low
Sustainability	Low (depending on the height of the pallet)	Full
Strength	Low	High
Mobility	High	Absent
Difficulty in creating	Low (bought more often in the store)	High
The cost	High	Low

Choosing a place to install a shower cabin with your own hands

The installation location depends on:

cabin weight and materials of manufacture;
ease of use;
bringing communications to the place.

The weight of the cab is important when choosing a location because the large cab acts on the foundation. If the type of foundation under the bathroom is not previously known, it is advisable to additionally check before starting the design. The floor will not collapse under the cab instantly, but the heavy structure will exert constant pressure, which sooner or later will lead to subsidence.

Cabins without a pallet lead to increased dampness in the foundations. For this reason, the use of cabins without a pallet on wooden foundations or foundations with little waterproofing should be avoided. Under constant exposure to moisture, cracks and mold will appear in concrete.

Ease of use lies in the ability to freely enter the cab. It all depends on the type of doors installed - sliding doors require less space, swing doors - more. Sliding doors require a suitable wall clearance.

When located in relation to the place in the room, everything depends on the size and type of the cabin. With a small room, a reasonable solution is to be located in the corner. With a large one, you should occupy either part of the room, against the wall, saving on creating walls, or placing it in the center, creating a unique interior.

The closer the cabin is to the wall, the easier it is to create convenient system communications. Communications are usually carried out in the walls and floor. If the cabin is created after the completion of the design of the room, you should calculate the connection points and make the cabin as close to them as possible. Otherwise, installing a shower cabin with your own hands is associated with the need to disassemble the finished coating and carry out additional communications.

suitable option

Calculation of the size of the shower

The calculation is based on the minimum adequate dimensions and strength of the material used to create the walls. The minimum dimensions are 80x80 or 90x90 centimeters - it is uncomfortable to wash in a smaller room. The minimum height is 1900 mm with a rain shower and 1850 mm without it, but the indicators are already inconvenient - it is difficult to raise your arms in the cockpit.

If desired, the dimensions of the cabin are increased in different directions, laying the size of the shower panel or other communications. When creating a cabin with a larger width, add the distance and increase by the size of the maximum protruding element.

For an accurate calculation of indicators, count on the height and size of the people using them. Add 300-500mm to the estimated height, so during washing there will be enough space for raising your hands. Increase the distance additionally if installing a rain shower.

It is convenient to work with materials when they are immediately ready for use. When creating the walls, glass, plastic, or polycarbonate, and acrylic are used. Glass has the optimum width when flexural strength and thickness are combined. The distance is taken equal to 1200mm - in this case, it is convenient to make walls 1200mm wide, which will eliminate the need to cut glass.

When creating a glass cabin, take the width and length with a size of 1200 mm and a height of 2000 mm as the minimum values, and choose the maximum ones based on your capabilities and your own desire. The cabins of 120x80 are considered comfortable.

Waterproofing

Sealing is used to protect the foundation and walls from the development of mold due to high humidity. Waterproofing is necessary for all types of cabins with or without a pallet. The process is conventionally divided into two subspecies:

cab insulation;
bathroom insulation.

bituminous mastic

Cab waterproofing depends on pallet and doors... Cabins with solid doors and a pallet are considered protected by installing sealed rubber bands in them. Depending on the type of doors, the level of waterproofing varies - it is easier to make sliding doors sealed than swing doors.

Do-it-yourself shower assembly means self-creation insulation, which makes increased demands on the selection of the size of the doors and their adjustment. The thickness of the gasket should be included in the size of the doors. This problem does not arise with purchased doors, since assembly is simplified in them.

Insulation is technically not possible with curtain and pallet versions. Water will fall outside of it, therefore, you should resort to sealing the bathroom.

In this case, tightness is achieved in the entire bathroom. After hitting the floor or walls, the water evaporates, and the steam is removed into the ventilation system. This method is more reliable, but requires a number of additional preparation processes.

First of all, a complete floor screed is performed using a waterproofing substrate. For this, the floor is freed and filled with a special solution. Then wait for uniform drying.

The walls are not insulated (except for the joints - they are additionally treated with a screed or putty), but they require hydrophobic materials - tiles or various polymer boards suitable for drying water. Conventional concrete walls absorb water and crumble over time - the bonds between cement and sand are destroyed by hydration.

All joints in tiles or panels are treated with antiseptic agents that prevent mold from developing. Otherwise, after a few years, the fungus and bacteria will be more difficult to remove - this is especially critical for a shower cabin in a wooden house or in a country house, in a bath.

Communications

Utilities mean water supply and sewage disposal. In a private house, the moment should be thought out in advance, since it is necessary to bring the pipes to the place of the intended location even at the stage of laying the primary communications of the building.

Sewer connection

Connecting a shower stall to the sewer with your own hands for pallet and palletless options is carried out in different ways. The pallet is connected through a coupling of the required size using a thread or soldering. The sewer outlet is located under the cab, but to solve the problem, elbow adapters are used - they save the cab from unpleasant odors.

Cabins without a pallet require a preliminary drainage system. The collection is carried out by means of a slight tilt towards the drain point where the water is collected. The drain is fixed in the floor and connected to the general sewage system through the knee hiding in the podium.

Water connection

Connecting a shower cabin to a water supply system with your own hands is easier than to a sewer. For effective water removal without visible pipe elements, the location of the shower panel or mixer should be marked in advance. The adapter for hot / cold water from the pipe is located at a distance of 100–150mm - otherwise hot water will heat up cold water.

With regard to the diameter, it all depends on the pressure of the system. The size of 27-30mm is universal, which will provide sufficient pressure for using both conventional watering cans and a tropical mixer. Make the pipes the same in width and direction - so the mixing of cold and hot water will be optimal.

The connection to the water supply is carried out with adapters for the selected mixing system. To increase the tightness, either water and temperature-resistant silicone sealants or plumbing thread are used.

Tools and materials

Manufacturing materials are varied. To create the walls of the cabin are used:

glass;
acrylic;
plastic;
concrete partitions;
drywall followed by tiling.

All materials look great as walls. Concrete partitions and concrete walls are not quite classical in understanding, but they will help to separate the room and the cabin, dividing the space. Acrylic or plastic is suitable for a cabin with a pallet due to its low weight, concrete and glass are used for palletless ones. Additionally, polycarbonate options are popular .

The pallet is made of dense plastic or concrete and then lined with a suitable finishing material. Plastic ones are made already in the desired shape, with niches for installing the walls. Self-production a plastic pallet is difficult, so you will have to turn to purchased options.

Set of tools depends on the materials used. The most required are:

gun for liquid nails or sealant;
corner;
meter.

All other tools are used as needed. To work with plastic pipes additionally needed:

soldering iron;
screwdriver for attaching clips to walls;
hacksaw or knife for cutting plastic pipes.

To create a niche for a concrete cab you will need the following tools:

construction mixer (for large volumes);
attachment for a drill or screwdriver for mixing;
master OK.

When working with concrete, it must be finished afterwards. To work with tiles, you may need a tile cutter to cut the tiles to the desired size without splitting.

To work with a pallet made of plastic and create walls made of plastic or acrylic, you will need a screwdriver and sealant. All fastening of parts takes place on special clips - sheets can split from other types of influences.

Glass will require a good cutter, and the thicker the sheet, the more difficult it is to cut it. It is advisable to order glass prepared in advance, since there is a risk of splitting the entire blade during cutting or installation. When working with ready-made and hardened sheets, this will not happen.

Do-it-yourself shower cubicle in a private house: a step-by-step master class

We offer to consider step by step instructions how to create a shower cabin with your own hands in a private house from a plasterboard frame with tile cladding. In addition, the process of how to install the simplest cab is analyzed.

To create a cabin you will need:

drywall;
profiles;
bricks for creating a pallet;
tile;
drain;
masonry mix or cement;
screed;
liquid latex waterproofing;
tile adhesive.

Despite the use of waterproofing, it is necessary to buy a screed, glue and masonry mix marked “Waterproof”. Otherwise, after using the shower, water will seep through the structure, destroying the strength of the connections.

Pallet creation

We create a pallet from bricks. Such homemade pallets are convenient for possible repairs.

	1. Mix the masonry mixture according to the instructions on the package. Mix with a mixer or ordinary spatula.
	2. The bricks are laid directly on the old tiles, so dismantling is skipped. In this case, it is not critical, since in the future the extra tiles will be removed and a new one will be laid. A drain is installed on the second level of bricks. Collect it according to the instructions. The drain lies on the bricks, with the installation of a drain at a slope of 5-7 degrees - so the drainage of water will get rid of unnecessary odors without using a knee.
	3. After installing the drain, finish laying the bricks. A one-brick high side is laid along the edges of the masonry. It serves as the basis for future plasterboard walls.
	4. On brickwork the floor screed is poured, which creates a flat surface. It should be poured with a layer of 3-4 mm, maintaining the level throughout the pallet. The screed dries for about a day.
	5. Finally, we clean the surface with sandpaper.

Erection of the frame

The frame is created from metal profiles - will be attached on top drywall sheets... There are two types of profiles - guides and slats. The profiles are screwed onto dowels into walls and brickwork.

	6. Drill the hole with a drill or hammer drill. A dowel is inserted and a screw is screwed on top.
	7. Place the profile on the wall, lay the slab. Place pipes under it for supplying hot and cold water... Installation takes place after complete assembly of the frame.
	8. After installing the frame, start preparing the drywall. A solid sheet is installed on the side with the mixer. Pre-drilled holes for hot and cold water.
	9. Sheathe the frame with plasterboard.
	10. Screw the sheets onto the screws.
	11. For the durability of the pallet, go over the entire surface with waterproofing. In order not to be mistaken with the choice, buy waterproofing for residential and non-residential premises, with the scope of application in showers.
	12. Brush the surface.

Tiling

	13. Cut the tiles into the required pieces with a tile cutter. It is not necessary to buy it for work - it is enough to take it from friends or rent it.
	14. Lay tiles from the corner. It is better to start with the floor. Place between each individual tile plastic cornerhelping to maintain distance.
	15. After all tiles have been installed, trowel the spacing with grout. It is applied in the gaps between the tiles.
	16. After setting, wipe off excess grout residue. Moisten a sponge with water and quickly remove excess. You need to wash it quickly - it will be problematic to remove it later.

The shower stall is complete. If necessary, install a swing door or an ordinary curtain in it.

Video: DIY shower installation

More information on how to create and install a shower cabin with your own hands in the video below.

Mixer selection

Only the owner will answer how to choose the right mixer. The choice is mediated by two important points:

the size of the cabin;
requirements for appearance and functionality.

If the second point falls entirely on the shoulders of the owner, the first should be discussed separately. A shower cabin is a limited space where every extra centimeter is valuable. A large panel or faucet can make a small cab uncomfortable.

Regardless of the size, faucets with hidden elements - pipes, the main system are considered an excellent option to save space and increase ergonomics. Only control levers and a watering can protrude to the surface of the cab, the rest is in the wall.

A rain shower for full use requires 100-300mm above a person's head - a smaller distance makes it uncomfortable.

Hinged or sliding doors?

The choice of doors depends on the type of cabin and the location in the bathroom. In a small bathroom, sliding doors are considered more convenient, in a large one - swing doors. It should be noted that for installation sliding doors special niches and mounts are required.

We offer you more some practical tricksduring the construction of the structure:

We recommend creating a cabin design in advance, before installing the first elements of water supply and sewerage. This factor will allow you to avoid complications with the liner in the future.
If there are no thoughts on the appearance of the cabin, a photo of finished products, both serial and homemade, will come to the rescue. Borrowing is not prohibited.
Although the corner cabin is the smallest in size, it is difficult to create it on its own. If you decide to create it yourself, you should purchase at least full-fledged doors that ensure the tightness of the structure.
When creating a brick pallet, buy a new brick, even if the cabin is being built outdoors and there are no requirements for its quality. Over time, the old brick will crack, causing the pallet to collapse.
When choosing a tile, stop at large sizes separate stove. Small ones require more experience to handle, as they are more difficult to align with each other.