Internal insulation of the attic has an indisputable advantage - the ability to carry out thermal insulation work regardless of the season. However, this approach has several important nuances, ignoring which can negate all efforts and financial investments. It's easier to prevent unwanted consequences than to eliminate them, don't you agree?

We will tell you how to act correctly to avoid mistakes. In the article, we described the features of the use of different thermal insulation materials, gave advice on choosing the best insulation, and also told how to avoid condensation in the roofing cake.

Detailed insulation technology mansard roof will help you to do all the work yourself, without the help of specialists.

There are a lot of heaters. However, not all of them are recommended for installation in a residential attic. The attic space is characterized by a fairly high humidity due to the rise of heated air from the lower floors of the cottage. Plus, you shouldn't forget about environmental friendliness and safety of the material.

If the attic is uninhabited, then due to natural ventilation through vents, soffits and dormers, steam is quickly eroded out of it onto the street. As a result, condensation does not form inside, and the rafter system is not negatively affected by excess moisture.

In the attic, the situation is different. When insulating it, it is necessary to create a barrier for heat to escape outside and reduce air exchange with the street. As a result, all the steam remains inside the attic rooms.

Therefore, if the insulation is not protected reliably from moisture, then it will not last long. After all, any heat-insulating material, after getting wet, partially or completely loses its properties.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to evaluate it:

• thermal conductivity;
• vapor permeability;
• volume weight;
• flammability;
• soundproofing;
• environmental safety.

If you choose too heavy a material, then the rafters will be overloaded. And the attic is often equipped from a non-residential attic. The rafter beams, in this case, are not designed for unnecessary additional loads. It is not worth trying fate here.

In terms of thermal conductivity, most of the heaters on the market are similar. You just need to choose the right thickness to achieve the required thermal insulation parameters.

It is not recommended to use sprayed polyurethane or foil-clad polyethylene for insulating the attic from the inside because of the high risk in case of making the slightest mistakes when installing condensation falling directly on wooden rafters

Of the entire range of thermal insulation materials, mineral wool (basalt) and are most suitable for internal insulation of the attic. Moreover, the first option is more preferable than the second. Minvata is not flammable and has better sound insulation.

It is not worth taking glass wool because of its predisposition to crumbling. Small glass particles are very dangerous to humans. And ordinary foam is also not recommended for use in the attic. In comparison with EPS, it is more flammable and environmentally harmful. In addition, it will have to be laid in a thicker layer.

Dew point problem

Ideally, the attic roof should be insulated from the outside during the formation of the roofing cake. However, it is often done the other way around from the inside, when the house is already covered with a roof. And here certain problems arise.

Correct and perfect roofing cake - several layers of different materials, laid on top of the rafters tightly on top of each other without gaps. This sandwich ensures that it sits on the outside. As a result, all condensate formed outside will quickly evaporate into the atmosphere.

When insulating a mansard roof from the inside, it is extremely important to leave a gap between the insulation and the existing roof for ventilation and evaporation of the condensate formed due to the temperature drop

Making insulation from the inside, after installing the roof, it is impossible to form the exemplary roofing cake described above. It will not work to press the insulation to the roof so that there are no voids left between them.

But the steam always moves towards the cold air. And then, each of the formed cavities will accumulate condensate and moisture. And this is a direct path to damage to the thermal insulation material and wooden elements. rafter system.

When internal insulation in the attic, the dew point has to be shifted into the space between the installed roof and the insulation, leaving an additional 5-10 cm clearance for ventilation. Only such a technology and such a cake will make it possible to avoid wetting the thermal insulation material.

In order to achieve correct air exchange in the under-roof space, it is recommended to install deflectors on the ridge and provide for special holes in the cornice

To reduce the amount of water vapor in the insulation, its installation should be carried out using a vapor barrier film. A vapor barrier is mounted from the inside of the attic on top of the thermal insulation material.

The steam must first encounter this film and mostly stay in the room. The less it gets into the insulation layer, the better.

Mansard roof insulation technology

To properly insulate the attic from the inside, you need to create a pie of five layers, starting from the roof inward:

1. Ventilated duct.
2. Wind-moisture insulation from a vapor-permeable membrane.
3. Vapor barrier.
4. Attic ceiling lining.

The vapor barrier is made of glassine, polyethylene or polypropylene film. Most the best way - special membranes, in which one side is rough and the other is smooth. With these materials, the risk of condensation forming directly on them is practically zero.

For a vapor barrier material, the vapor permeability should not exceed several tens of grams / m2 per day, for vapor-permeable membranes this indicator is hundreds of grams / m2 per day and more - these films should not be confused

Membranes are suitable for organizing wind and moisture insulation:

• porous;
• two-layer film;
• three-layer superdiffusion;
• perforated.

Superdiffusion membranes will last the longest and most effective. However, they are more expensive than other options.

At the same time, it is recommended to use perforated fabrics and films when insulating a residential attic only as a last resort. They are more designed for waterproofing cold sloped roofs in non-residential attics.

When installed with a heater in a warm room, these materials are often covered with frost in severe frosts, which reduces their vapor permeability to nothing.

Layer # 1 - ventilation under-roof vents

Before you start insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands, you first need to treat the wood of the rafters with antiseptics and fire retardants. Only then will it be possible to start forming insulating cake.

It is best to mount the insulation from the inside of the attic on a special crate under the rafters, but most often this material, together with the upper vapor-permeable film, has to be laid between the rafter beams

If the insulation is knocked out from the bottom of the rafters, then the inner space of the attic will be reduced. The thickness of the insulating cake often reaches 30–40 cm. If you subtract these centimeters from the top and sides, the room may turn out to be too low and small.

At the same time, the installation option with the lining of the lathing under the rafters and the laying of insulation on it excludes the appearance of cold bridges. If mineral wool or EPS is inserted between the beams, then they themselves and the gaps near them formed over time in the heat-insulating layer will draw heat from the attic.

In order for ventilation in the under-roof space to meet the requirements of SNiPs, deflectors or other openings for air outlet should be provided on the ridge.

Steam together with air currents should rise to the highest point of the roof and leave from there completely out. Moreover, this should happen without obstacles and as quickly as possible.

Before stuffing the membrane onto the rafters, you must first correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation. If the thermal insulation layer is more sizes rafter beams, you will have to build them up with bars. The main insulation material should be inside this frame, and not protrude from it.

Layer # 2 - vapor permeable membrane

In the upper part of the underlaying cake being formed, there should be a material with high vapor permeability from the insulation to the street and high waterproofing in the opposite direction. The task of this membrane is not to prevent steam from escaping from the thermal insulation, while not letting water and moisture into it, which can drip from a leaky roof.

Most best material for this vapor-permeable layer, which also performs the functions of wind and moisture protection, these are superdiffusion membranes. They are not clogged with dust and ice formed from condensation in severe frosts.

Laying of such membranes is done in horizontal strips with an overlap of 10-15 cm from the upper row to the lower one from the outside. As a result, a single canvas should be obtained, when drops of water hit through the roof from the street, they would flow down without getting into the insulation.

The joints of the rows of the membrane from the inside of the attic are glued with assembly tape. It should be taken under the same brand as the vapor-permeable film.

The composition of the glue and the material of the membrane from one manufacturer are selected so as not to harm each other and reliably keep in the glued state for many years. If you take them under different brands, then problems are possible.

Layer # 3 - basic insulation

The thickness of the insulation is selected in accordance with SNiP 23-02-2003. For this, appropriate calculations are carried out, which take into account climatic conditions, features of the structure and structure of the roof, as well as the characteristics of the thermal insulation material and the inner lining of the attic.

Laying insulation with an unnecessarily thick layer is not worth it because of wasted money, and its too thin layer may not provide the required thermal protection

Thermal insulation manufacturers give detailed recommendations for determining this thickness in the instructions for the material sold and post on their official websites. It is best to focus on these calculations.

Installation of insulation is carried out from inside the attic on top of a vapor-permeable membrane laid. If mineral wool is chosen, then it must be cut into pieces 2–3 cm wider than the gaps between the rafters or the lathing bars. Mineral wool should enter between them with light pressure and hold there due to the spacer.

EPSS will have to be laid on top of the rafters, and not between them. Plates of this insulation are mounted end-to-end. If you put them inside the rafter beams, like mineral wool, then through holes will appear in the heat-insulating layer.

Some craftsmen fill such gaps with polyurethane foam from a cylinder. However, this should not be done. This can lead to deterioration of the membrane due to the chemical reaction of the components of the sprayed foam and the material of the vapor-permeable film.

It is better to take away from the attic 10-25 cm from the top and from the sides to the crate with EPS, rather than get a layer of protection with through holes.

Layer # 4 - vapor barrier film

On top of the insulation on the inside of the attic, a vapor barrier made of glassine or polypropylene or plastic film should be laid. The task of this layer is not to let water vapor from the room into the insulation. It is laid in the same way as the very first vapor-permeable coating.

The joints of the vapor barrier should be given maximum attention - if you leave even the slightest gaps in them, then the steam will find these gaps and wet the insulation material

In addition to the usual film, you can also take foil. The extra layer of foil will reflect most of the heat energy back into the attic, reducing heating costs. In this case, the installation of such a film is made with "aluminum" inside.

The vapor barrier is fastened with staples or studs with a wide head. And in places where the film is adjacent to cables, pipes and structural elements roof windows, it should be additionally reinforced with a special one-sided tape with a heat-reflecting coating.

Layer # 5 - headliner

At the end of the attic insulation, the lathing is stuffed under the cladding. It is made of 15–25 mm thick bars so that a small ventilation gap remains above the vapor barrier.

Condensation due to improper vapor barrier and how to get rid of it:

When self-insulating the attic from the inside, when the roof is already covered, it is important to choose the right thickness of the insulation material. And even more important is to spend correct installation without rupture of vapor barrier and wind and moisture barrier.

If the protective films on both sides of the insulation have holes, then it will get wet and no longer protect the house from the cold.

Do you have an experience of insulating the attic from the inside? Or would you like to ask questions on a topic? Please comment on the publication, share your knowledge and participate in discussions. Block feedback located below.

Heating your own home, especially in the cold season, is not very cheap. Moreover, its effectiveness falls when certain conditions are not met.

Many, wanting to make the house warmer, focus, for the most part, on its walls. This is unlikely to save you, you will still have to spend a lot on heating. Hot air will evaporate, rising upward under the roof.

Before spending money on heating and heating the roof, it must be insulated, taking into account the structure of the residential attic floor and all the features of its operation.

Let's say you are not planning to make a mansard roof residential. However, in this case, one cannot do without thermal insulation. So that the rest of the house does not suffer from heat loss due to the cold attic, you need to insulate the entire attic floor, it is enough to only insulate the attic floor.

Let's still consider with you the option when you still plan to equip an attic for winter residence... But in this case, you cannot do without a properly insulated roof.

Dependence on climatic conditions

Insulation materials for a mansard roof and their possible use largely depend on the region of your residence. In SNIP you can see the average temperatures of your climatic zone. If the temperature in winter is not sky-low, then there will be no need to insulate "Siberian". And, accordingly, vice versa. The lower the temperature in the region, the more seriously it is necessary to approach the issue of thermal insulation of the attic room.

Below is a list of parameters that must be considered when choosing a thermal insulation material:

• Materials used in the construction of walls
• Pediment (its thickness)
• Climatic zone
• Roof type - mansard, pitched, etc.
• The existing load on the roof and floors

An insulated attic roof needs high-quality thermal insulation materials that will perform their functions well. But it is possible to insulate the attic floor with the help of simple materials, for example, expanded clay filler and even sawdust.

The choice of material for insulation of the attic floor

The most important criteria to take into account are:

• Service life declared by the manufacturer
• Thermal conductivity indicators (they should be as low as possible)
• Indifference from insects, rodents and all types of fungi, but at the same time the material should be environmentally friendly and safe for you
• The incombustibility of materials is perhaps the most serious requirement for insulation, it cannot be neglected

You have to perform a fairly large amount of work. After all, a residential attic needs insulation of roof slopes, ceilings, walls and floors. Otherwise, the insulation will turn into an unnecessary waste of money, and the result will not be achieved - the attic will remain unsuitable for living in winter.

All of the above works are performed from inside the attic room, and, of course, this will reduce the volume of living space.

To avoid a large loss of the attic floor area, you should choose materials with a minimum thickness, but good thermal insulation qualities.

You should also find out the approximate weight of the material. After all, it will be necessary to calculate the final load on the rafters and beams. This is necessary to understand whether they will withstand or will require additional strengthening of the roof structure.

Some heaters require the construction of additional structures made of wood and chipboard, and this creates an additional load on the roof. Also keep in mind that some heaters, without proper waterproofing, can add weight.

Mounting methods. A plate of ordinary polystyrene is glued, or fixed to the surface with screws. For mineral wool and bulk materials, the above-described board frame is required.

Pay special attention to waterproofing. After all, rain and snow are in contact, first of all, with the roof, creating a danger of moisture penetration inside.
Do not think that waterproofing will take too much of your strength. After all, materials have long been invented that are not afraid of moisture. Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam are a prime example.

Insulation like mineral wool should be waterproofed with foil or film. If moisture gets in, this material will "gain weight", thus becoming a wet lump. This is "treated" only by replacement, which entails additional costs.

Also keep in mind that a number of heat-insulating materials with a constant temperature drop lose their properties or are completely destroyed.

How to insulate the roof of the attic

The owner of the house can choose a heater for every taste and a pocket for arranging his attic. Expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and foam glass will perfectly cope with their direct duties, and you will not be left without pants.

Polystyrene and expanded polystyrene are leading in the list of budget heaters. You can buy it with plates of the required size.

This material for insulating a mansard roof is 90% air, and therefore their thermal conductivity tends to zero.

Polyfoam has one significant drawback - many of its modifications are flammable. But at the same time, the load on the roof will be minimal, the waterproofing qualities are at a height, and it is also absolutely not subject to attacks by rodents and mold.

In order for the material to have no drawbacks at all, purchase polystyrene foam, which contains an ingredient that makes this material non-combustible. The worst thing that can happen to him is smoldering, but it is unlikely to lead to a fire.

Mineral wool has excellent environmental performance, being practically harmless to you. Materials of this kind are the product of processing other things that are harmless to humans, such as rocks.

It does not burn, perfectly insulates the space, and the service life will pleasantly surprise you. But there are still disadvantages to this method of thermal insulation.

As already mentioned, mineral wool can absorb moisture and become unusable if it is not waterproofed with film or foil. This leads to a loss of body-insulating and heat-conducting qualities.

During the installation of such material, be sure to protect yourself from the smallest particles of the material on the skin and mucous membranes. Wear a mask and gloves, do not allow gaps between items of clothing. Subject to the installation technology, glass wool can last for up to half a century.

As we wrote above, if your mansard roof is not planned for living, then the process is greatly simplified, boiling down to thermal insulation of the ceiling slabs alone.

Stages of floor insulation:

• Installing a wooden frame
• We fall asleep in the intervals expanded clay, sawdust, or lay mineral wool
• We put the insulation in several layers - this is necessary to cover the frame from wooden slats
• We waterproof thermal insulation with a film, or with foil, both from below and from above
• We finish by laying the boards for the subsequent installation of the floor covering

With the thermal insulation finished, we now have an additional room that can be used in the summer.

What if you plan to use the attic roof for living all year round?

Thermal insulation in this case will be much more serious.

It will cover all structures of the attic space:

• roof slopes
• gable structure
• overlap

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic diagram

Warming of the mansard roof gable can also be done outside the house. We suggest doing this with expanded polystyrene. The boards are installed using glue, and the structure is reinforced with nails "umbrellas".

For further finishing of the insulated wall, we will apply plaster. Before applying the plaster, use a special mesh to reinforce the plaster.

Such thermal insulation of the attic roof from the outside will not steal part of the usable area from you. The service life of this structure will be measured in tens of years.

But let's return to the question of how to insulate the attic roof from the inside, since unfortunately (and maybe fortunately) it will not work to insulate the roof from the outside.

• First, we stretch the waterproofing material - this is necessary to protect our thermal insulation from moisture
• Cooking insulation - if you use rolled insulation, then it should be pre-cut into pieces with an ordinary stationery knife
• We put insulation between the roof rafters, and in case of gaps, we seal them with adhesive tape or foam sealant
• We close the laid insulation with waterproofing ( different kinds films and foil)
• The last step is the cosmetic finishing of the attic, on top of the thermal insulation material

Do-it-yourself attic roof insulation process is not complicated but requires strict adherence to instructions. Otherwise, moisture condensation awaits you on the surfaces of the attic when the temperature regime changes.

The presence of ventilation is very desirable in this case, because excess moisture can find a way out. A properly made waterproofing will not allow the insulation to absorb water.

Using insulation materials that are not affected by moisture, you save yourself the extra work of waterproofing.

And nevertheless, it is extremely important to make ventilation. The vapors will circulate freely passing through ceiling slabs and walls.

Do not forget about such a wonderful insulation for the attic roof, like polyurethane foam. It is easily applied to the surface to be insulated by spraying. When solidified, this material forms an almost perfect surface, without flaws. It will fill in all gaps and cracks. Moisture is absolutely not terrible for polyurethane foam, and therefore its service life will pleasantly surprise you. In the next 30-50 years, you will not have to remember about insulation!

Be creative but smart. The reward for your building exploits will be warm room under the mansard roof. And your caring hostess will turn her into a piece of paradise!

Do-it-yourself attic insulation video

For a private house, a very reasonable solution would be to insulate the attic roof. Firstly, you use the area more rationally - thanks to roof insulation, the attic does not turn into a large refrigerator for the winter.

There you can arrange an office, workshop, children's playroom, or whatever your heart desires. Secondly, you save fuel - a house loses up to a quarter of all heat through a cold attic, and, naturally, more and more heating is required. Therefore, the question of how to properly insulate a mansard roof occupies many homeowners.

If you decide to insulate the roof at the project stage, so much the better - then the insulation technology is determined already in the process of building the house, and thus you get "room for maneuver". In this case, you will have the opportunity to think in advance what suits you best - insulation of the attic roof from the inside or outside - and choose exactly those methods and materials that are optimal for this.

If you are dealing with a ready-made building, which it was decided to improve, there remains only such an option as the insulation of the attic roof from the inside. And here the question naturally arises as to how best to do this. Of course, good professional, for whom thermal insulation of the attic roof is a common job, will do everything quickly and without problems.

But if you hire a specialist without recommendations, then you cannot be completely sure of the highest possible quality of the result. In addition, it is too expensive for many to use the services of hired workers. And finally, the last argument in favor of insulating the roof of the attic from the inside is that doing something with your own hands is just very pleasant.

Where to begin?

How to properly insulate the attic roof? First of all, avoiding negligence and not succumbing to illusions is a difficult, time-consuming and costly work. Therefore, it is better to spend more time preparing the project and drawing up a detailed estimate than to insulate the attic roof somehow, and then suffer in a cold or damp room and endlessly repair your house due to condensation that destroys wooden structures.

When preparing for insulation work, it should be borne in mind that the configuration sloping roof in the aspect of arranging a residential attic, it provides great opportunities compared to a gable roof, since with such a roof contour, the useful volume of the room increases significantly.

How to choose a heater?

The first step should be a competent selection of materials. Choosing a roof insulation is not like that simple taskas it might seem. The choice of thermal insulation on the market is huge, but you need to choose one for the attic room that will provide a stable level of humidity in the room and the absence of sudden temperature jumps.

The best insulation should have the following qualities:

• low thermal conductivity, that is, high heat retention;
• low hygroscopicity, that is, resistance to moisture absorption - a wet insulation significantly loses its quality;
• the absence of toxic components in the composition and environmental friendliness - after all, we are talking about a residential building;
• fire safety.

In this case, the heat-insulating material for the roof must be vapor-permeable, that is, it should not interfere with the free exit of water vapor from the room. If this requirement is neglected, the result will be a build-up of condensation and a "bath" atmosphere in the room. This in itself is not very pleasant, not to mention the dangers of dampness for the attic walls and ceiling.

Another important condition is that the material for insulating the attic roof must adhere well to inclined surfaces and not deform over time. Finally, it must also meet the requirements of sound insulation - if this moment is left unattended, then during heavy rain or, moreover, hail, the upper floor will be unusable.

Considering that metal or metal sheeting, which are now most often used as roofing, not only perfectly conduct sound, but even amplify it, you will not be able to sleep, talk or watch TV when something knocks on the roof.

To choose insulation for a mansard roof, you will have to study the many materials that it offers modern market... Almost all heaters have their own advantages and disadvantages - for example, ordinary polystyrene, appreciated by many for its cheapness and ease of processing, is bad because it is not "transparent" enough for moisture rising from the room along with the air. In other words, it is better not to use it for such premises where you plan to stay for a long time, for example, for bedrooms.

Glass wool is traditionally used as a heater, but at the same time it quickly cakes and loses its shape, and with it - thermal insulation qualities. The main disadvantage of the increasingly popular polyurethane foam is its inability to withstand fire, as well as its rather low vapor permeability. In addition, this material requires scrupulous preliminary calculations - the fact is that when solidified, its structure expands, which is why the whole structure can "creep". The strength of the bearing elements must be taken into account with extreme precision.

The better to insulate the attic roof, everyone decides for themselves, based on their capabilities and the intended purpose of the room. From the point of view of many specialists, one of the best roofing insulation can be called basalt slabs - this material is durable and elastic, perfectly retains heat, does not lose its qualities during operation and is not prone to moisture accumulation. Another undoubted advantage is ease of installation. It is due to the fact that the basalt slabs have the optimal width for fastening between the rafters and they do not have to be cut to the required size.

The main rule

Even if you have already decided which insulation is best for you, it is too early to start the work itself. First, you need to understand the sequence of these works, and for this you need to get an idea of \u200b\u200bthe whole structure of the insulated roof. Or, as the professionals say, a roofing "pie".

From top to bottom, the components of the pie are:

• the roof itself (corrugated board, tiles, slate);
• crate;
• counter-lattice;
• waterproofing material;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• ceiling decoration.

That is, when installing thermal insulation, the main rule should be taken into account first of all - the insulation must be protected both from external (atmospheric) moisture and from internal moisture that rises from the room. Otherwise, the accumulation of condensate is inevitable, which ultimately will lead to the most disastrous consequences not only for the under-roof space, but for the whole house.

If you decide to insulate the already finished attic roof from the inside, then, as can be seen from the above list, all layers of the "pie", up to and including waterproofing, are already available. It remains to lay the insulation, cover it with a vapor barrier membrane - and you can finish the ceiling. It would seem that everything is simple. But here it is required to strictly follow the established rules, otherwise all your work will be in vain.

Work order

Even before buying materials, you will need to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe attic roof that you want to insulate. When calculating, the area of \u200b\u200bthe gables must also be taken into account - even the most carefully insulated roof will not have an effect if the cold comes from the ends.

Only when the measurements are completed and everything you need has been purchased in the right amount, you can proceed to installation work... Carefully study the instructions for all materials - how to roll them out, how to fasten them, etc. To fix insulating films and insulation, in advance, stock up on the required number of wooden slats or a construction stapler.

Waterproofing

If you start with waterproofing (let's say you haven't laid it yet), the most important point to pay attention to is that there must be an air gap of at least three centimeters between it and the roofing material. More is possible, less is not possible.

This is necessary for proper ventilation of the under-roof space - if the air flow does not pass freely between the waterproofing film and the inner side of the coating, this will lead to the accumulation of condensation. And as a result, the insulation, when wet, will lose its beneficial features, wooden parts of the structure will begin to rot, metal parts will rust, and in the end such negligence will shorten the life of your home.

For the same reasons, it is categorically not recommended to use polyethylene and other "non-breathable" materials as waterproofing. Nowadays, the market for construction products offers a wide selection of special waterproofing and vapor barrier membranes, designed specifically for this purpose and providing an optimal balance between moisture permeability from the inside and impermeability from the outside.

Thermal insulation

Next, the insulation is laid. It should be fixed strictly according to the instructions. If you use basalt, keep in mind that it adheres well between the rafters due to its elasticity, but over time the elasticity of the material will decrease slightly. Therefore, it is not advisable to put it on without fixing it at all.

Vapor barrier

A vapor barrier membrane is applied to the insulation, and only after that the ceiling covering is mounted.

Output

How to insulate a mansard roof, in general terms, is clear. The main rules are here, as with any construction works - thoroughness, accuracy, accuracy. Observe the correct sequence during installation, follow the rules for working with materials, buy insulation and membranes only from trusted sellers and manufacturers. And then your warm attic will delight you for many years to come.

The size of suburban areas and the desire of their owners to use the fertile soil layer to the maximum convinces them to make decisions about expanding useful areas in a vertical, not horizontal direction. It is easier and more profitable to equip an attic above the bathhouse than to attach an additional rest room to it or build a separate house. True, this option will be acceptable only if there are more than 50% of the useful under-roof space with a height of 2.5 m, and if the ceiling above the bath is designed in such a way that you can walk on the upper plane without fear. In the presence of the listed prerequisites, insulation of the attic will make it possible to turn it into an excellent living compartment.

• Let's start with the fact that the roof configuration is far from the shape of a classic cube. The insulation will have to be mounted on inclined surfaces. And since we are considering the insulation of the attic from the inside, it is impossible not to take into account the complexity of installing soft and flexible roll materials.
• Recall that the overwhelming majority of the area of \u200b\u200bthe upper enclosure is roof structure with a rafter system. Its coating was made of extremely lightweight materials with high waterproofing qualities, but also with considerable thermal conductivity. The wooden elements of the truss structure are laid with gaps that do not form a thermal barrier.

• Let's take into account that in the attic floor there is not only a roof surface, but also at least two gables and a valley. To leave without insulation or to insulate them poorly means to nullify all efforts in general.
• Let's not forget that the roofing material, which does not allow atmospheric moisture to pass through, at the same time prevents the escape of vapors that are natural for the bath and not only for it.
• We will ensure the safety of using the dwelling by insulating the attic roof with materials with the environmental and hygienic characteristics required for the arrangement of housing.

Summarizing the above criteria, we will compose a kind of formula from the requirements that the thermal insulation system under construction must meet. According to the tasks set for the insulation, we will select the material and find out all the technological nuances. For the effective operation of thermal insulation, it is necessary that:

• a layer of insulation completely covered the inner surfaces without "gaps" in a kind of carpet, so that there was no weak points in the form of an unprotected ridge and gables not covered with an insulator;
• the insulation material, which resists the attacks of a cold atmospheric front from the outside and a warm moist front from the inside, was protected from condensation formed as a result of their confrontation;
• no moisture accumulated on the outer surface of the heat-insulating layer, which was not passed out by the waterproofing roofing, so that excess moisture is removed through the ventilation ducts;
• lightweight roofing insulation was equipped with a windscreen, which prevents heat from blowing out of the attic on windy days;
• the material is suitable for technical, technological and sanitary-hygienic parameters.

The listed requirements are a detailed answer to the question "how to properly insulate the attic." If the thermal insulation system meets all the conditions, then it will serve for a long time and work effectively.

Choosing the right insulation

From a technological point of view, slabs are best suited to create an insulating system from the inside. Using the material that holds the shape is easier, faster and more convenient to do the insulation of the attic with your own hands with a minimum number of additional fixing devices. For their correct installation, longitudinal bars are nailed to the rafters with dimensions that allow for a ventilation gap. The outer plane of the bars must coincide with the outer plane of the elements of the rafter system, the inner plane of the heat-insulating material must coincide with the inner plane of the rafters.

Note. If the power of the selected insulation is greater than the width of the rafter, an additional beam will have to be nailed to each of the elements of the rafter system or installed on the screws. Wooden additions must be treated with an antiseptic before installation.

In any case, both with sufficient and with insufficient width of the rafters, the ventilation space between the insulation and the roofing material must be left.

Indicators of the heat-technical qualities of the material determine the climatic features of the region. The collection of building codes under the number 23-02-2003 will help to find out them. According to the indicator specified in SNiP, you need to select material.

• Polyfoam is a budget material and convenient way insulation. Lightweight slabs will not be difficult to install, the thermal insulation system will insignificantly increase the weight of the roof. However, the weak ability to conduct steam and the attractiveness as a tasty dish for mice make one think about whether it is worth insulating the attic with foam.
• Minvata is also a convenient and democratic option. Slabs cut to fit a couple of cm larger than the gap between the rafters are easy to install. Before installation, the insulation element must be slightly squeezed and positioned in the required place. Having straightened out, elastic mineral wool will firmly "sit" in its nest. Glass wool can be used as a practically equivalent alternative.

• Expanded polystyrene is usually laid on top of the rafter system, forming a ventilation gap by installing a counter batten between the insulation plates and the roof covering. It is not suitable for insulating the roofing system from the inside, but it can be used to insulate the gables.
• Polyurethane foam - easily applied to a surface of any complexity by spraying. A contractor with a portable installation supplying a foamed insulation under pressure is subject to planes with any slope. Warming the attic with polyurethane foam will allow you to create a monolithic layer without the slightest gaps. In addition, you will not need a vapor barrier layer that protects interior decoration from the effects of condensation.
• Ecowool is a heat insulator from the category of sprayed materials. It is similar in properties to wood, it contains an antiseptic that prevents damage to the insulating layer and wood in contact with it. Just like the previous analogue, it creates a continuous cover that does not sag in the process of many years of use. For thermal insulation with ecowool, it will be necessary to mount a hemmed ceiling and install a crate for attaching a vapor barrier material to it.
• Foil materials that work not only as insulation, but also as a mirror reflector of the heat tending to come out. In order for the foil-clad heat insulator to perform excellently, it is necessary to unfold it during installation with an aluminum layer inside the room and leave a distance of 5 cm between it and the vapor barrier layer.

The list is quite sufficient to have something to focus on, but mineral wool is recognized as the most popular materials for insulation from the inside. Spraying with polyurethane foam is popular, but not everyone is available due to the lack of a device, which, however, can be rented for a while at a construction company. It remains only to figure out how to insulate the attic with your own hands and get an excellent result.

What should be the correct constructive pie?

An exaggerated thermal insulation system is the following constructive pie, if you start listing the layers from the side of the space being equipped:

• Plasterboard cladding.
• A vapor barrier layer, preferably a variant of the membrane type. It is a continuous casing made of strips of rolled material laid with a 10-cm overlap. The canvases are fastened along horizontal and vertical joints with special adhesive tape.
• The lathing has three functions. The slats attached across the rafters hold the insulation, serve as the basis for fixing the vapor barrier and form a ventilation space, which is especially necessary when using foil-clad material.
• Insulation, laid in one or several layers, depending on the generated heat engineering effect. When insulating the attic from the side of the room, it is mounted between the rafters.
• A waterproofing layer that protects the insulation from getting wet, which results in a decrease in heat engineering properties.

Note. Builders who thoroughly know how to insulate an attic are strongly advised to leave a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation material and the waterproofing. According to technological standards, its absence is considered a gross mistake.

• Another counter-lattice that creates a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the roofing material. Ventilation in this case is necessary to remove moisture accumulating on the waterproofing membrane. To drain moisture, holes are provided in the area of \u200b\u200bthe base of the slopes and in the area of \u200b\u200bthe valley. The width of the ventilation gap is determined by the roofing material. If the roof is covered with tiles, slate, corrugated board or corrugated ondulin, it is enough to leave 25 mm if flat material leave 50 mm without profile relief.
• Windproof vapor barrier equipping the ventilation space. It is needed to preserve heat in the case of active ventilation in the ventilation gap. Stays over rafter legs, fastened with slats, on top of which the roofing is mounted.

Carrying out the insulation of the attic with your own hands, observing all the subtleties, the owner of a bath with an attic will provide himself with a comfortable living space, eliminating the need to build on summer cottage house. To equip an attic roof for housing, you do not need to obtain permits and seek the consent of neighbors. But the benefits and economic effect are obvious.

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The use of attic space for residential has long been customary for most domestic developers. Due to this, it is possible to get a completely comfortable living space with minimal financial costs. True, for comfortable stay one very important condition should be fulfilled - to properly insulate the roof. This is the only way to not only minimize heat losses during the heating season, but also maintain a favorable microclimate in the rooms.

Currently, the construction industry produces a wide range of heaters with high heat saving rates. To facilitate acceptance optimal solution, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the performance characteristics of each of them.

Builders use two methods of insulating the attic roof, each of which has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Insulation outside

The arrangement of the roofing cake takes place in the following sequence: installation of the rafter system, vapor barrier from the attic, laying of insulation, waterproofing (wind protection), lathing and counter-lathing, roofing materials.

To the advantages of this method the ability to qualitatively control each technological operation and, if problems are found, to correct them in a timely manner.

But there is also a serious drawback. If during the installation of the insulation (mineral wool) it rains, then there will be very big troubles. Cotton wool quickly absorbs a lot of water and dries for a very long time without dismantling. The only best option is to take out the materials and dry them on a level surface. But during dismantling, a lot of mineral wool is damaged, it needs to be replaced, and this significantly increases the cost of the roof.

And one more problem. Wet wool flexes so strongly that there is a possibility of damage to the integrity of the vapor barrier. This layer must be airtight, otherwise moisture freely enters the insulation with all extremely negative consequences.

Insulation from the inside

The order of arrangement of the roofing cake changes. After the construction of the rafter system, waterproofing, lathing and counter-lathing are laid and roofing materials are installed. You can take a long break at this - the attic is completely protected from precipitation.

Builders calmly do other things internal worksfurther warming does not depend on the weather and can be done at any convenient time. From the side of the attic, a heater is installed, fixed in the niches between the rafter legs and sealed with a vapor barrier.

How is vapor barrier different from waterproofing? What kind of material is the vapor barrier and wind protection? Why choose membranes? Look for answers to these questions in the article on our website. Features: various materials and the rules for their installation.

The advantage is obvious - precipitation does not negative impact on the quality and timing of the construction of a warm roof. The only, and then very conditional, drawback is that it is difficult to control the gap between the windscreen and the insulation. But this is not critical for two reasons:

1. First, experienced roofers have their own methods of checking the distance between the insulation and the windscreen.
2. The second - there are the most modern membranes that can be laid close to mineral wool, their effectiveness does not decrease from this.

Several types of materials can be used to insulate the attic roof. The specific choice should take into account the cost of the insulation, the climatic zone of the location of the building and the wishes of the customer.

What materials can be used to insulate the roof of the attic

A wide selection of heaters puts inexperienced developers in a difficult position. It is difficult for them to find objective information, each manufacturer actively advertises only its products. Moreover, advertising is often not entirely true. In the table below, we will try to give the objective performance characteristics of each type of insulation materials.

Insulation type	Description of physical and operational properties
	Quite often used material for insulating various structural elements building. There are species that are highly resistant to open fire and do not exceed the permissible sanitary standards for the release of chemical compounds. Such parameters made it possible to use this material in housing construction, however, not on all architectural elements of the building. The advantages of polystyrene are low cost, high manufacturability, complete absence of water absorption. The latter property makes it possible to achieve significant additional savings financial resources on roof insulation - there is no need to install a vapor barrier, a counter batten for ventilation of the under-roof space and wind protection (water protection). Disadvantage - for unknown reasons, this material is severely damaged by rodents, because of this, it is necessary to provide a special set of measures to prevent them from entering the thermal insulation layer, but this is not difficult to do, the materials are cheap.
	Insulation is made on the basis of foam, the difference is increased strength parameters. For insulation mansard roofs physical strength does not matter, but because of this, expanded polystyrene is much more expensive than foam. Another disadvantage is that the increased strength increases thermal conductivity, and therefore, in terms of the effectiveness of roof insulation, extruded polystyrene foam is inferior to foam.
	Recently, it has been very popular among developers, but some professional builders are very critical of this material. There are two positive qualities for mineral wool: high resistance to open fire and complete environmental protection. But these benefits can be considered contingent for several reasons. ● Firstly, if there is a big fire, it makes no difference how the attic roof is insulated, in any case the house will completely burn down. ● Secondly, from the inside of the room, the attic is finished with dense materials, which completely excludes the penetration of harmful chemicals into the rooms. You need to know that aldehydes are released not only by polystyrene, but also by all plastic products, furniture varnish, etc. But no one lacquered furniture cannot stand outside, not afraid of aldehydes. The disadvantages of mineral wool include high cost and significant weight, hygroscopicity, air blowing (heat is removed). Pressed mineral wool has the same disadvantages as rolled, only in an enlarged form.
	The advantages include the complete tightness of the insulation; there are no gaps between the foam and wooden structures. The disadvantages are the unevenness of the layer in thickness. The sealed polyurethane foam does not require vapor protection. It is recommended to use this method of insulation on roofs with a soft roof, for them a continuous crate is made, and this is a prerequisite. Its surface is even and without gaps, which allows the application of liquid foam.

We do not specifically give comparative indicators of thermal conductivity of various materials, they are almost the same and in practice the differences are invisible.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials