We build a zero bath with our own hands. How to build a bath with your own hands. Construction of a turnkey bath from the foundation to the roof. Prices for a pumping station

Do you want to build a bath, but do not know what material is best to use to implement your idea? Then be sure to pay attention to the beam. A bath made of this material will be environmentally friendly, reliable and durable. At the same time, you can handle the construction of such a structure with your own hands.

There is absolutely nothing complicated in the self-construction of a bath from a bar. This material has many advantages over its closest analogue - a rounded log (log). Among the main advantages of the beam, the following points should be noted:

However, in order for a bath from a bar to fully show all its advantages and serve for the longest possible time, you must approach the choice of building material responsibly and competently.

What timber can be used to build a bath?

The most important operational parameters of the finished steam room directly depend on the quality of the wood. First of all, pay attention that the logs are intact. No cracks or other defects are allowed. Even minor damage can lead to big trouble in the future, as a result of which the wood will rot and collapse.

Make sure that there are no blue spots on the surface of the wood. Such defects indicate the presence of rot inside the material, the development of which in most cases is provoked by a variety of pathogens. It is impossible to use such material for the construction of a steam room and any other building.

There should be no noticeable signs of damage by beetles and other pests on the timber.

High-quality timber has a perfectly flat and smooth surface. It is strongly recommended to refrain from buying material with distortions and any other damage - when laying the crowns, all deviations will clearly appear.

Bath building guide

Pre-compile your own, order or find in open source bath project. Calculate by project required amount building materials and start building a bath from a bar. Start by arranging the base.

The first stage is the foundation

The finished steam room made of wood will have a relatively small weight, which makes it possible to refuse the arrangement of monolithic buried foundation structures. A structure made of timber will feel great on an ordinary strip or column foundation.

To equip the base of the tape type, dig a trench around the perimeter and under the walls of the future building, fill the bottom of the pit with sand and gravel, lay the reinforcing mesh, install the formwork and pour concrete. The optimal foundation depth is 70-100 cm. When choosing a specific depth, be guided by the soil freezing rates for your region.

Strip foundation - the order of construction

The foundation should rise above the ground by at least 50 cm - this will provide the necessary protection of the lower rims from excessive dampness.

Inside the perimeter of the strip base, pour strips of sand and gravel. In the future, you can fill them with concrete or build a wooden floor - choose a specific option at your discretion.

For arrangement column foundation it is necessary to build supports made of bricks or concreted asbestos pipes around the perimeter, in the corners and under the future internal walls of the bath. Under each such support, a concrete “cushion” should be pre-arranged. Place the posts in 150 cm increments.

Regardless of the type of base chosen, it is necessarily subject to additional reinforcement.

Let the concrete gain strength for 3-5 weeks and proceed with further work.

The second stage - waterproofing the foundation

Apply molten bitumen to the surface of the base, and a layer of roofing material on it. Let the bitumen harden and repeat the operations. As a result, you will get a reliable two-layer moisture protection.

Before proceeding with further work, impregnate all wooden elements with an antiseptic. Such processing should be performed after the preparation of cuts for fastening the beams, if such cuts were absent initially.

The third stage - the first crown

Proceed to laying the first crown of walls. To do this, first lay the slats up to 1.5 cm thick, pre-treated with an antiseptic, on a waterproofed base. Lay the slats in increments of about 30 cm.

Lay the first crown of bars on the slats. Thanks to the slats, the contact of the beam with the foundation of the bath will be excluded. This will provide additional protection against wood decay and will significantly extend the life of the material.

Lay the first crown so far without fixing. Make sure that it is laid correctly and evenly with a square and a level.

If necessary, align the lower crown beams, and then attach them to the foundation. There are several mounting methods. The most optimal and frequently used method involves fixing the beam with anchor bolts.

However, quite often, developers refuse to attach the lower beam to the foundation. In practice, the design stands perfectly even without fixing the lower crown, held by its own weight. The advantage of this solution is that in the future, if necessary, the beam of the lower crown can be replaced with much less effort.

Blow out the space between the first crown and the base with mounting foam.

Fourth stage - the rest of the crowns

Ideal for bath walls wooden beam section 15x15 cm.

Cover the first crown of the beam with heat-insulating material. For insulation, jute or moss is traditionally used. You can also use tow. In the case of moss or tow, the thermal insulation should be laid out with a 10 cm overlap at the edges. In the future, you will use the raised edges for the caulk.

Lay the second crown of the beam and fix it with wooden dowels. Pre-drill mounting holes of the appropriate diameter. Usually the length of one dowel is enough to fasten 2-3 rows of timber.

Lay out the walls of the required height. Every 3-4 rows, check the construction with a square and a building level. Place a sealant between the crowns.

The top two crowns do not need to be fixed. The wood will shrink. Ceiling beams can only be installed after the wood has dried. To install the beams, the upper crowns will need to be dismantled.

Fifth stage - door and window openings

There are two options for arranging openings for mounting doors and installing windows.

In accordance with the first option, the mentioned holes are created after the construction is completed. log bath. To do this, you must first leave small gaps in the crowns at the installation sites of doors and windows. The dimensions of the gaps depend on the dimensions of the installed products.

After the construction of the bath is completed, you will simply have to make openings for mounting doors and windows with a chainsaw.

In accordance with the second method, openings for doors and windows must be left during the construction of the bath. This option requires more time and effort. To accomplish the task, you will need to use special grooves and bars with end cuts.

The sixth stage - caulk

Leave the finished timber box for "wintering" for a duration of 6-7 months. During this time, the wood will give sufficient shrinkage. For the period of "wintering" cover the beam with boards and slate.

If you used tow or moss as an interventional sealant, you can skip this step in the instructions - you will most likely not need additional caulking for your timber bath.

However, experts still recommend studying the state of the structure. If noticeable gaps are found, be sure to caulk. To do this, twist the tow or moss into a bundle and twist the material into the gap, followed by compaction.

You can also use jute sealant to fill the gaps. By most indicators, this material is superior to tow and moss, but it costs a little more.

Stage seven - the roof

The roof should become a reliable protection for your timber bath. To arrangement roof structure you can proceed only after the wood shrinks, otherwise the roof will lead and it will be significantly deformed.

First step. Lay down wooden beams over the top wall trim.

Second step. Attach to fixed beams rafter legs in increments of 100 cm. To connect the rafters in the ridge part of the roof, cut them at the required angle.

Third step. Nail a solid board deck to the rafters (if for finishing soft roll material will be used) or build a crate (if you plan to trim the roof with tiles, slate or other sheet material).

Fourth step. Mount the final roofing in accordance with the instructions for the selected material.

Fifth step. Cover the roof ridge with galvanized iron. This will protect it from adverse environmental influences.

Sixth step. Sew up the gables of the roof with suitable improvised materials - clapboard, wooden board or siding. At this point, focus on your individual preferences.

After finishing roofing works proceed with insulation and other insulation work, interior decoration and arrangement of the steam room in accordance with your project.

Successful work!

Video - Building a bath with your own hands

Almost every land owner, sooner or later, thinks about building a bath. After all, a bath is not just a room for washing, but also an important element of summer vacation. The construction of a turnkey bath can be ordered from professionals for a tidy sum, or you can try to build a bath with your own hands.

After reading this article, you will be able to choose a project, find out the sequence of the construction process, get acquainted with the models of boilers and find the best bath option for your dacha.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to develop a bath project. To do this, it is not necessary to contact an architect, you can develop a simple project yourself, especially since now there are many computer programs for design.
Think about what size bath will be optimal for your family. What rooms will be located inside the bath. From what materials to make the foundation, walls and roof, do not forget also about the decoration of the bath. An important point in design, is the location of the boiler and the method of its combustion.
Below you can see the popular projects of baths:

• • Bath project size - 4x4 meters.

• • Bath project - 4x6 meters.

• • Bath project - 5x6 meters.

• • Bath project - 6x3 meters.

• Bath project - 3x3 meters.

After you have decided on the size and materials for the bath, you need to draw up a cost estimate.

Foundation

For the construction of a bath, several types of foundation are used. Depending on the weight of the walls and the characteristics of the soil, the following types of foundations are made:

• Slab foundation.
• Column foundation for light walls.
• Pile foundation.
• Concrete strip foundation.

As practice has shown, the most reliable foundation for almost all types of soil is a concrete strip foundation reinforced with reinforcement.

To make a strip reinforced foundation for a bath, you will need:

• Cement.
• Sand.
• Gravel.
• Fittings.
• Formwork.
• Ruberoid.
• Wire.
• Shovels.
• Concrete mixer.
• Harness.
• Stakes.
• Tools (pliers, hammer, tape measure and others).

In the place chosen for the construction of the bath, mark the trench for the future foundation. For marking, use a tourniquet stretched between the pegs. The width of the trenches is made based on the weight of the material for the walls. For a one-story bath made of wood or brick, it is enough to make a trench 30-40 centimeters wide. After installing the markup, do the following:

1. Based on the markings, dig a trench 50-80 centimeters deep.
2. Tamp the bottom of the trench and fill it with water to shrink the soil.
3. Cover the bottom of the trenches with roofing paper for waterproofing.
4. Fill the trench with gravel to a third of its depth.
5. Install the formwork along the edges of the trench.
6. Make a frame reinforcing the foundation, from reinforcement rods interconnected by wire.
7. Install the reinforcement cage into the formwork.
8. Using a concrete mixer, make a cement mortar in the proportion of one part cement to one part sand and two parts gravel.
9. Pour the cement into the formwork, being careful not to allow air pockets.
10. After the concrete has dried, remove the formwork.

The foundation for the bath is ready!

Walls

For the construction of walls use the following materials:

• Wooden bar.
• Logs.
• Boards.
• Brick.
• Blocks from various building mixtures (cinder block, aerated concrete, wood concrete, and so on).

Since the construction of a log or brick bath is already quite widely described on the Internet, let's consider the construction option frame bath from a bar 15x15 and 5x10 centimeters and boards with a section of 2x15 centimeters:

1. 1. Make the lower trim, for this, take the bars with a section of 15x15 cm and install them on the foundation, connecting them with special metal plates and corners. There is another way to connect the bars, by cutting spikes, grooves at their ends and then fastening them with screws or nails. When tying, do not forget to put waterproofing under the bars.
   2. Install vertical racks from a 5x10 cm beam. The distance between the racks is usually 50-60 centimeters. First of all, determine the position of the window and doorways and install the racks framing them.
   3. In the process of work, fix the already installed racks with temporary strips so that they do not warp.
   4. Make the top harness by attaching it to the ends of the uprights.
   5. When making the final fastening of the upper trim, carefully monitor the position of the vertical racks, checking their evenness with a level.
   6. Be sure to strengthen everything corner connections diagonal racks, this will help to avoid warping the frame.
   7. Make a ceiling sheathing.
   8. After making the frame, make the outer cladding of the walls of the bath with a board with a section of 2x15 centimeters. If you do not want cracks between the boards, then make the sheathing - "overlap", laying the bottom edge of the board on the nailed board. In appearance, this method resembles wall siding.

1. Having sheathed the bath from the outside, proceed to the installation of insulation. Styrofoam sheets or mineral wool installed along the vertical racks of the frame.
2. On top of the insulation, it is necessary to install a layer of vapor barrier, which is attached to vertical racks using thin rails.
3. After installing the vapor barrier, make the inner lining of the bath with clapboard or slats.
4. Insulate the ceiling by laying vapor barrier sheets on the inner lining, then insulation. Sheathe the ceiling from the outside with plywood sheets.

Please note that the manufacture and insulation of the ceiling can also be done after the installation of the roof.

Roof

The roof for the bath is of three types:

• Shed.
• Gable.
• Complex - consisting of four or more slopes.

Usually, the first two options are used for a bath. Let's look at the option gable roof covered with metal tiles:


The manufacture of the roof begins with the installation - Mauerlat. In case of frame walls, the role of the Mauerlat is performed by the upper stroke.

1. Install the uprights on the bench.
2. Connect the racks with girders and puffs.
3. Install the rafter legs by attaching them to the Mauerlat, run and connecting the upper ends to each other. The distance between the rafters should be 50-60 centimeters.
4. Install sheets of metal.
5. Sheathe the gables with wooden slats or sheet iron.

For a more visual acquaintance with the roof fastening, the following figure is shown:


All sizes of roof elements are listed:


Keep in mind that the smaller you make the slope of the roof, the more snow load will fall on it in winter. Also, a small slope of the roof can lead to poor drainage and leaks.

floors

The design of the floor depends on the type of room. In the rest room, ordinary wooden floors are made. In the washing and steam rooms, the floors are made of two levels:

• The first level is made of concrete, has a slope towards the drain hole.
• The second level is a finished floor made of boards with gaps for draining water.

If you want to make a porcelain stoneware floor or tiles, then they simply fit on the first level at a slope to the drain hole.


In order to make a concrete floor and drain in the bath you need:

1. In the center of the steam room and washroom, install plastic pipes with a diameter of 5-10 centimeters with a bell at the end. Pipes must go through the foundation to the street and connect to the sewerage system.
2. Lay down a layer of waterproofing material.
3. Spread a layer of gravel 10-15 centimeters thick over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rooms.
4. Make a cement mortar and pour the floor with a slope to the hole installed on the drain socket pipe.
5. Install a grate on the drain hole to prevent debris from entering the sewer.

At the second stage, wooden floors are made:

1. Install wooden logs in all rooms of the bath. Make the distance between the lags 30-40 centimeters. As a log, you can use bars with a section of 3x5 cm or 4x6 cm.
2. Nail boards with a section of 2x15 cm or 5x20 cm onto the logs.
3. In rooms where water is supposed to be drained, leave gaps of 0.5-1 cm between the boards.

Do not forget, before starting the installation of wooden floors, treat all parts with wood impregnation. When making floors, keep in mind that they should be above, or at the level of the top edge of the foundation.

Boiler

The model of the boiler for the bath will largely depend on your financial capabilities and the fuel that you will use for heating. If you know how to use welding, then you can make a simple boiler yourself, from thick sheet iron. If you prefer more advanced colas on gas or electricity, then they can be purchased from specialized companies.

The boiler in the steam room is installed in such a way that the combustion chamber is loaded with fuel either from the street or from the rest room (dressing room). The boiler itself, in order to fire safety, is located 10-15 centimeters from the nearest walls. Walls to the height of the boiler, covered with sheets of iron. A good solution would be to overlay the boiler with bricks, thereby reducing its cooling time and protecting the walls from fire.

When arranging a chimney for a boiler, pay special attention to the place where the pipe is in contact with the ceiling. The hole for the chimney should be insulated with a refractory material. Also, pay attention to the place where the chimney pipe exits through the roof. Usually, this place is prone to leakage, so it should be carefully sealed. Below are the options for boilers for the bath:

• • Homemade boiler from sheets of metal.

• • A gas boiler.

• • Electric boiler.

• Solid fuel boiler.

Bath arrangement

After the bath is built, it is necessary to equip it:

• • Bring to the bath all the communications available on the site - electricity, sewerage, water supply.

• • Place inside the sink, shower, light sources, furniture for relaxation.

• • Decorate the walls of the steam room with curly slats and make stepped shelves.

• Buy wooden tubs, buckets, buckets and brooms.

After the arrangement, you can safely invite guests to take a steam bath in your personal bath!

You can also see the instructions for assembling a mini-bath for giving without a foundation in the video:

Variants of beautiful and unusual baths

In addition to traditional materials and design for a bath, there are many alternative solutions. Below we give photos of the most unusual baths:

• A mobile bath from a "lining", built on a car trailer.

• Sauna in a huge wine barrel.

• Bath from plastic bottles.

• Bath dugout, built right in the ground.

• Bath housed in an iron container.

• Forest bath from raw logs.

• A beautiful bath from a gun carriage.

• Bath from unedged boards.

At the end of the article, I would like to remind you that heating the bath is associated with fire and high temperatures. Therefore, when building a bath from bricks, logs, cinder blocks or boards, pay great attention to fire safety. This warning also applies to the electrical wiring device, since the rooms inside the bath have high air humidity and the risk of a power outage due to condensate is very high.


We hope that reading our article will encourage you to build a bath yourself!

Hello, dear site visitors! We continue the series of articles from our readers In this article, the author shares personal experience for the construction of a log bath with their own hands. The construction is not finished yet, so we wish him success! If you have recommendations and questions for the author, you are welcome in the comments.

Part 1. Foundation

For the construction of the bath, I chose a relatively flat area with a slope of 20 cm on a six-meter segment. First of all, after preliminary marking, he made a cut of the fertile layer over the entire area of ​​​​the future foundation. This is required to exclude the processes of decay of plant residues and other organic matter in the basement.

The area is dominated sandy soil, That's why the best option will be 50 cm high from the base and 40 cm wide. The outline of the foundation is marked with ropes that are attached to improvised corners of the inner and outer perimeter. To mark the perimeter, I took cuttings of boards about 70 cm long and drove them into the ground, screwed horizontal shelves with protruding screws for attaching the rope from above with self-tapping screws. It is better to choose a rope that is not prone to stretching, it will be easier to work with this.

In addition to the lengths of the sides of the future foundation, the diagonals between the corners must be verified, which must be equal to each other with a tolerance of plus / minus 3-4 cm. You can read more about how to mark the foundation in this article. We continue to remove the fertile layer and dig a trench to create a sand cushion.

As a result, we get a fully prepared "pit", where the bottom of the trenches is almost horizontal (we check with the building level). The depth of the trenches is 20 cm, from the soil level at the highest point of the site 40 cm, at the lowest - 30 cm.

The dimensions of the foundation are determined by the center of the intersection of the logs of the log house. This will be the center line. If the diameter of the logs is about 20-22 cm, then we retreat on both sides of the center line, respectively, by 15-20 cm. This will be required to obtain "shelves" for attaching floor logs and rain tides. In addition, the error is practically eliminated when the logs, due to miscalculations of the foundation, fall outward or inward “hanging” in the air.

The bath is connected to the strip foundation in order to exclude multidirectional shifts of the bath and the furnace. The size of the furnace platform was chosen as 120 * 120 cm, as the average for installing metal furnaces under brick lining.

We start laying sand in the trenches. At the same time, we moisten and compact the sand. We pour water until puddles appear, after the moisture is absorbed, we begin to tamp. The process is repeated 3-4 times until your shoes leave no marks on the compacted surface of the sand.

A day later, after the completion of work, we once again pass the entire base under the foundation with a rammer. Of course, you can use a simpler option and connect a tamping machine to work, this will not speed up the process much. I have the simplest option: a beam of 100 mm, a sole of 20x20 mm and a handle. The appearance of the finished base and manual tamper is shown below.

On top of the prepared site under the foundation, we pour a sand cushion to level the horizon and raise the site above the level of the site in order to prevent water from entering under the foundation.

If you hire a concrete truck, then take care of additional strengthening of the formwork with diagonal stops outside and inside the proposed foundation. The pressure that is created when the mixture is supplied can demolish an insufficiently strong structure. The same applies to pouring the mixture from a concrete mixer. Only in this case, you need to strengthen the place where you will drain or simply move the concrete mixer around the perimeter.

It is better to pour the entire volume of concrete at one time, so as not to get the effect of a layered cake. We cover the top of the foundation with a film that keeps our foundation moist in order to avoid cracks in the concrete. The foundation is periodically watered with water, not allowing it to dry out.

After 7-10 days, we remove the formwork, unscrewing the self-tapping screws, which will also go into work at subsequent stages. The finished foundation looks like this. Layout: 2x6 meters - veranda; 4x4 meters - rest room; 2x2 meters - washing room; 2x2 meters - steam room. The location of the ventilation holes is approximately 20 cm from the ground level, if necessary, you can buy plugs to close the holes in the winter.

The approximate quantity and price of materials used in the construction of the foundation are shown in the table below.

Part 2. Installation of a log house and a roof

For dressing a log house 6x4 meters and a chopped veranda, you will need 25 bags of moss. When buying, make sure that the weight of a bag of compacted moss is approximately 20 kg. Moss must be elastic, that is, have optimal moisture content.

We use “cuckoo flax”, which we collect in late autumn, when all living creatures go to “wintering” in the soil and there is no risk of grabbing a snake with a bunch of moss. A small amount of sphagnum moss is allowed, which is shorter and crumbles when dry. If only sphagnum is fully used, then after a while it will simply fall out of the grooves.

The length of the strands of moss should be at least 30 cm, so that when caulking it is possible to twist the ends and ensure the sealing of the grooves. When drying, we sort the material, choosing twigs, foreign plants and cones from it. By the way, if the bump falls into the groove, then at a certain humidity it opens with such an effort, which is enough to lift the log and arrange a “cold bridge”. This is how log house installers did in the old days, and even now this situation is not uncommon if the owner “offends” with money.

We install rolling logs. I have a small gap between the foundation and the log house, so I used half a log on one side and a 100 mm beam on the other.

We punch the place of contact of the log with the roofing material with moss.

Errors were revealed that caused the unwillingness of the cutters to do their work efficiently. The grooves were cut with a chainsaw, which made the gaps in the logs very large. Look, the edges of the grooves fit snugly against the body of the log, but in fact there is a void inside. Because of this, the amount of moss that will go to the caulk increases greatly. And this is if you do the caulking yourself, and the "shabashniks" only do the external processing, no one will break through the insides.

Material	Volume/quantity	Price
Edged fence board "inch" on the crate, 300 mm	1 m 3	4500 rubles
Wood screws 50 mm	2 kg	300 rubles
Moss	25 bags	6250 rubles
log cabin	1 piece	72000 rubles
Board 50 * 150 six meters	14 pieces	3600 rubles
Metal tile, thickness 0.5 mm, length 4.2 meters (additional ridge and wind protection)	12 sheets	31000 rubles
Steam-Wind-insulation	1 roll	800 rubles
Grooved board 20 mm	1 m 3	8500 rubles
"Belinka" base	2.5 liters	400 rubles
"Belinka" glazing composition	2.5 liters	600 rubles
Total:		127950 rubles

Part 3

The most simple, but tedious work on caulking a log house. We use a mallet, iron and wooden caulks. An iron one with a blade thickness of 3 mm and a width of 50 mm, a wooden one is made of hardwood (I have dry birch) and is a consumable.

The original view of the groove.

We fill the moss into the groove with a construction trowel. Previously used a spatula, but it quickly failed and was not as elastic. Feel free to hammer the groove completely. There is an opinion among the inhabitants that there is no need to make the seams dense and uniform, they say, the temperature in the bath is enough to compensate for the losses. But judge for yourself, drafts in the steam room and washing room will not add comfort and firewood consumption will be 2-3 times higher.

We hammer the resulting roller with a wooden caulk.

If necessary, if the groove is not tight enough, we make another roller of moss and punch it until we feel the hardness of the wood when struck with an iron caulk.

The final view of the caulked groove.

To prevent birds from dragging moss and for aesthetics, we close the groove with a 100 mm wide jute tape, which will subsequently be treated with impregnation and glazing composition to match the color of the log. Special "craftsmen" put logs on only one jute or linen, but this is unacceptable for a bath. If we have constant humidity in the house, then vaporization is welcome in the bath. Flax and jute absorb moisture, but do not dry out for a long time, the grooves rot and become moldy.

We get logs prepared for grinding.

We especially carefully caulk the corners to prevent cold air from entering the bathhouse. Work, if you do not hire specialists, will cost nothing. When attracting "shabashniki" - from 70 to 150 rubles per linear meter.

Part 4. Sanding logs

So, the caulking is completed, the moss is filled and compacted in the grooves, we proceed to prepare the log house for painting. At present, the logs look very unpresentable - traces of a planer, chips and pulled out wood chips. In addition, the logs are strongly "tanned" in the sun and under the influence of slanting rains, and some of the knots require sampling and sealing with mastic.

The ends of logs that were damaged during storage and transportation also require processing. Here the most loose wood, respectively, a high probability of decay and further destruction of the log.

Logging tools:

• Bulgarian;
• petal emery wheel;
• soft brush from a mop;
• putty knife.

Bulgarian used the cheapest - 1200 rubles, made in China. It is worth noting that it withstood all the tests with honor and remained operational even after the passage of 70 square meters of walls (we add to this the semicircular profile of the log). The only inconvenience is cleaning the stator, rotor and the inside of the grinder from wood dust. Of course, you can put a stocking on the instrument, but the incoming air is not enough for cooling. By the way, the work is very dusty and immediately stock up on glasses, closed on all sides, and respiratory protection equipment - a respirator is enough. Working with a grinder requires utmost attention. High speeds and a removed protection cover can play a trick on you. One has only to lose vigilance, intercept too quickly to the grinding wheel, and you are guaranteed an injury. I twice went through the same place on my arm - the glove to shreds and the skin torn to the meat.

The grinding wheel was used with grain 80. Through testing and selection, I settled on this value - grain 60 leaves too noticeable marks, and grain 100 clogs very quickly. The approximate consumption of petal circles is 1 piece per 3 square meters. You can use the circle further, but the pace of work slows down, and you just get tired.

Attention bonus! I accidentally found that if a circle clogged with dust and tar is passed over the concrete of the foundation, then the sandpaper is cleaned and the circle is ready for work again.

With no skill and when working with all caution, you can sand 6-10 squares of a wall in a day. The prices of "shabashnikov" fluctuate between 400-500 rubles per square, and plus they do not stand on ceremony with consumables. Pay attention to resin pockets. If you expose such an area, then treat it with a solvent, otherwise this resin will then come out even through a layer of paint.

I started working from the smallest wall, the logs are changing before our eyes. Faced with the problem that when processing grooves, the edge of the grinding wheel leaves cuts on the lower log. But with further processing, the cuts grind well, and no traces remain.

Especially a lot of fuss with corners, the high speed of the grinder and tightness slow down the process. Where the circle does not reach, you will have to switch to a slower processing method - a chisel.

When the grinding wheel is almost "sat down", we pass the ends of the logs. It is irrational to use a new circle for the ends - you will have to throw it out after a dozen logs.

We seal the ends with mastic on wood. At first I used the color "pine", but then I realized that it was more economical to use White color, as it will be painted under it.

After grinding, an interesting structure of the tree appears, intricate patterns run throughout the log. Knots and uneven logs are added log bath a certain fundamentality, and I was even glad when there were especially gnarled specimens.

To get an idea of ​​how the wall would look after painting, I stopped and prepared the logs. According to all the aggregate features (quality and price), I chose the composition under the Belinka brand. Pre-treated with Base, the drying time of which is 24 hours, and passed over the polished surface with the first layer of glazing composition No. 24 (rosewood). Agree, enchanting beauty! If you want to get a surface that is smooth to the touch, then after the first layer of the composition and its drying, go over the log manually with a “zero” sandpaper. This is true on the railings and on the front of the bath, where guests love to run their hands along the wall and appreciate the work of the master.

The drying time of the first layer is 12 hours, to be sure, I survived the day and covered with a second layer. A dark noble matte sheen appeared. Another trick - after using the glazing composition, a little pigment remains at the bottom of the jar. We dilute it with a solvent to a very pale appearance and pass through the second layer of the dried coating. You can do the procedure at any time after the coating. As a result, we get a surface that resembles a log additionally impregnated with wax. Very pretty.

Along the way, the ends were processed with a glazing composition No. 11 (white), which favorably sets off the work already done.

The result completely satisfied me, we continue the polishing that we started. Since you will do all the work yourself, the quality will be at the highest level. If the hired workers can ignore flaws, then the master himself will torment himself for even the smallest oversight. For example, I, knowing that somewhere at the bottom of the log I missed a cut, like a criminal returning to the scene of the crime, again and again examined his “jamb”. Until it was corrected.

The log cabin is getting more and more beautiful. Do not forget to clean the logs from dust with a brush after work.

In the next photo, the logs processed by the Base, and the ends sealed with white mastic.

Having appreciated the color and texture of the painted logs, I realized that inside the veranda it would look a little dark, and I experimented with coloring the log with composition No. 11 (white).

White paint retains the texture of a sanded log, and I decided on full painting verandas. Through the first layer, a slight yellowness of pine appears, and there is no shine. Very similar to just bleached wood. But the second layer works wonders. There is brilliance and a certain completeness. By the way, buy "Belinka Azure", as the white "Belinka Top Azure" is intended for window frames and costs much more.

Now the bath, with the exception of one wall, is covered in one layer and looks like a house with a Khokhloma painting negative. Pleased with the upper cross beam - a knotty Christmas tree, which gives the structure a look of conformity with the natural style.

We continue the construction of the bath and proceed to the stage of flooring on the veranda. There is a roof over the room, but the absence of a pediment (for the airiness of the building) does not prevent drops of slanting rains from entering. In winter, snow blowing and its subsequent melting during a thaw is not ruled out. Therefore, we will pay special attention to the conservation of boards and logs, as well as to making the surface of the floors water-repellent along with a good appearance.

Part 5. Floor of the veranda

Boards 50 * 150 set on edge will serve as lags. According to the universal formula, the thickness of the board is multiplied by a factor of 20, and we get the step between the lags in my case 1000 mm. But I decided to somewhat strengthen the structure and placed the logs in 600 mm increments. It turned out like this.

On the veranda (conditionally 2 meters by 6 meters) I bought 16 six-meter boards, taking into account the lag and a margin of one board. It cost me 4300 rubles and 500 rubles for shipping. Some boards showed blue and mold, which is easily removed by sanding and bleaching. Worst of all, several boards are affected by the woodworm. Its larvae made several through holes, which I then sealed with mastic. Upon inspection, I didn’t find more living creatures and calmed down on that - after drying, the wood attracts them little, and treatment with an antiseptic and biocide will discourage the beetle from any desire to approach my veranda. I laid a vapor-permeable film on the ground inside the foundation so that no plant would get a chance to germinate inside the veranda. The boards were marked and sawn in accordance with their location.

After that, I removed the boards, numbering them according to their location, and started processing the logs. I used a vigorous antiseptic of Yaroslavl production. I am a little familiar with the preparation of antiseptics and the composition of the purchased products inspired confidence in me. Preservation of wood is declared at 45 years old, subject to the impregnation technology. It is required to use 500 grams of solution per square meter, i.e. We apply the first layer, and after 1-2 hours the second. antiseptic yellow color so the coating is clearly visible. When dry it becomes dark brown.

Next came the turn of the boards. Previously, on the surface located below and on the sides of the boards, I passed with a petal emery wheel, fixed on a grinder to remove the pile. So we provide better absorption of the antiseptic. Then we grind the front surface with a circle with a grain of 100. I also used my long-suffering grinder of the lowest price category. If you are afraid to make potholes and holes, then try grinding part of the board with a clogged circle to gain a little experience. Don't forget to chamfer the edges of the board.

Attention bonus! To make the floor surface perfect to the touch and pleasant for the feet, walk along the sanded board with a mild soapy solution. Apply with a brush or roller. When dried, the risen residual pile will become hard and it is easy to knock it down with a sandpaper even in manual mode.

The boards are laid on logs with a gap of 4 mm. As a "standard" we take an ordinary nail, which we put vertically between the boards.

Since my boards are of natural humidity, they can be somewhat drier, that is, they are likely to warp during the drying process. That is why I decided to use not self-tapping screws for fastening, but screw nails. A self-tapping screw is a weaker fastener for transverse loads and can simply burst. The head of the nail, so that there is no rust and its spread to the boards, is covered with mastic on wood.

See the nail? And he is here!

In the process of laying the boards, I begin processing them. I had the choice of using Alpina outdoor terrace oil or Belinka glazing as a coating. I liked the second option better. Firstly, that the oil that the Belinka Base penetrates deep into the tree and protects it from moisture. Secondly, the oil tinting and Belinka No. 24 are almost similar. Thirdly, oil and glazing composition, which does not have high resistance to abrasion, should be renewed every two years. And fourthly, Belinka is cheaper. A large flow of visitors is not planned on the veranda and the maximum load is walking in slippers or barefoot.

After the first layer of the Base has dried (24 hours), apply the second layer and let it dry for another day. And the culminating moment comes - coating with Belinka No. 24 glazing compound. If you want more effect and shine of the floor, then get Top Azure.

–––––– Half a year has passed ––––––

Since my last story of the past, quite a lot of time, and the construction of the bathhouse was gradually moving forward. Little by little, because you have to do everything yourself. I don't trust scammers. I contacted them twice (assembling the log house and installing the roof) and was very dissatisfied with the result.

I looked at the bathhouse from the side and decided that another pediment was needed to protect the veranda space from rain. He laid the lining in different directions, leaving something like a window. There will be a stained glass window - polycarbonate with a pattern applied with special stained glass paints.

The fit of the boards to the pediment turned out to be quite tight, so I will do without an additional plinth, I will leave it as it is.

The pediment is painted in the same color as the bath, a side board with a claim to carving is installed. The cost of the work was: lining - 2500 rubles; self-tapping screws - 200 rubles; paint - 200 rubles; wind carved board - 800 rubles. I think that it is quite inexpensive for such a result.

Last year, I didn’t have time to paint the roof lining, I just covered it with a base coat, the temperatures started to drop below zero. Just the other day, having chosen a period without rain, I walked with two layers of white Belinka. I liked the result, but I think to fix it with a third layer.

So, new season construction baths opened. In autumn, I managed to capture a few fine days with a positive temperature, which finally made it possible to make a window and a door. The technology for preparing openings is standard. We mark and cut out with the formation of a spike on the log. For the window opening, I used a bar 100 * 200, and for the door frame, a bar 100 * 250. At the sawmill, they met me halfway and made two six-meter blanks on special order. They took quite ridiculous money - about 2500 rubles with delivery.

On the spot, the beam was sawn into the required segments. The window opening turned out to be clean 50 * 50 centimeters, the door clean 70 * 160. So we really implement the old commandment - bow to the bathhouse when you enter. The upper level of the threshold will be 15 centimeters from the floor to keep warm in winter. I sawed a groove on the beam according to the size of the spike on the log, plus a centimeter in width in each direction. I fixed a rolled insulation 20 centimeters wide on the spike, it seems linen, I don’t remember what I bought. The vertical beam went to the stretch, and horizontal segments were used as struts. The gap from the top pigtail to the log is about 3 cm, filled with moss. There is also moss under the threshold and window sill, which, after installing all the components, was compacted to the state of almost a log.

A quarter is selected on the window for ease of installation of plastic. Spacers are placed in the door, since during the natural drying of the timber, deformation is possible.

What is planned. The window is plastic with imitation of division into smaller windows. The photo shows my hooliganism, so to speak - instead of a window, I inserted foam plastic and made markings for the future product with insulating tape.

The door is metal with a heater on a cloth and jambs. In the company where the doors are made, the director is my good friend, we discussed all the details and, I hope, a good product will turn out. By door leaf there will be a wooden overlay 1.5 centimeters thick. According to the overlay, I will perform aging of wood, I will make an imitation of forged hinges and wooden cross bars. But this is in the future, and now he is engaged in the improvement of the veranda.

We have one craftsman who makes tables and benches of fairly good quality and quite inexpensively. This headset cost me only 7.5 thousand rubles. By tradition, I covered it with the Belinka base, Rosewood glazing compound and deck varnish from the same company.

Somewhere on the hundredth or two hundredth jump from the level of the veranda, I realized that I needed a porch. The plans were to make some kind of forged product with wooden steps, but for now I decided to limit myself to a temporary hut. Although the makeshift turned out to be quite nice and will still serve me until I get bored. On the sidewalls I used logs that remained from cutting out openings, on the steps a board 50 * 150. On the base he laid stones from a nearby quarry.

And now about the pressing. Firstly, I spend the caulk inside the log house. The logs have already settled down in place. What is possible - dried up, what is needed - led what it wanted - settled in its permanent place. Accordingly, gaps appeared inside that require careful sealing.

External examination confirmed the good quality of the caulk. Nothing has fallen out, the birds haven't messed up, and the moss is lying as planned. When sawing openings, the moss was packed into one dense and hard strip, it was even difficult to make out, but it is good to fill cracks with such strips. I made another birch caulk. The shoulder blade turned out to be wider and larger, a two-kilogram sledgehammer perfectly suited it. Moss flies into the cracks with a whistle, and where the log lay too tightly I use birch wedges. The process is lengthy, but mandatory if you do not want to bathe in felt boots in winter. Secondly, I conducted an audit of the foundation. There are light chips on the outside, but these are sagging during pouring and do not affect the quality. However, if I have free time, I will plaster and cover facade paint. Manufacturer and color not yet chosen. Last year I installed low tides, which performed well even with a serious snow load. And, thirdly, I will count the snow holders. When last year a crust formed on the roof after a freezing rain, and 50-60 centimeters of snow fell on it, it was a good surprise in the form of a huge dense snowdrift near the bathhouse after the first thaw.

Well, I’ll tell you what I do to keep my bath warm and dry. A month ago I bought a metal stove from Izistim for 58,000 rubles. I chose for a long time, tediously, I read all the reviews and realized that this is what I need. Its parameters can be found on the official website of the company, where given detailed description. While the stove is standing on the street in front of the bathhouse, 130 kg of metal still needs to be thought out how to carefully drag it, especially since I still have no floors and 600 pieces of bricks are stacked on the ground. It turned out that these ovens are made literally right next to me, so I had the honor of talking directly with the manufacturers, who really helped with advice and recommendations. The pipe is planned to be adjacent to the stainless sleeve. The structure will be about 5 meters. I ordered a stainless pipe with a wall thickness of 1 mm in the same place, in the Izistim company. Just a week later I received the order. Laser welding, high quality and reasonable price. In terms of money, the pleasure amounted to 11,500 full-weight rubles for a set of pipes of 5 meters. CRAFT company.

The complete kit includes a tee, a plug for cleaning the pipe from soot and removing condensate, and a type of adapter with a platform that will allow you to firmly fix the chimney in a brick pipe. The design on the right in the photo is a horizontal pipe section from the stove to the chimney. Heat-resistant stainless steel 4 mm thick, made in EasySteam for 4300 rubles.

Naturally, I didn’t go shopping and bought convection doors without leaving the cash register. Comfortable constipation, normal appearance and additional sheets of metal for fixing products in brick.

I bought Kostroma clay brick of grade 150, which is enough for lining the furnace. The geometry of the brick is normal, if necessary, the edges can be rounded to give the products a more interesting shape. If you want a more beautiful brick, then buy Vitebsk brand 200. Each brick cost me 25 rubles apiece.

I didn’t bother with clay, which needs to be mined and prepared somewhere else, since I don’t have any special skills. I bought a ready-made mix "Makarov's Furnace House" produced by Kostroma, Gzhel color. They also have a white clay mix for aesthetes. Pechnikov could not be found - everyone is busy. The cost for the masters starts from 40 rubles for a brick for lining and 60 rubles for a brick on a pipe. You can calculate the cost yourself. I will do it myself, although the work will be delayed.

Part 6. Furnace

“And the battle begins again” - we continue the construction of the bathhouse and the improvement of the internal space. The heart of the bath is the oven. My wishes for the climate of the future steam room and other rooms are extremely simple and unpretentious. Firstly, the legs and ears should be warm even in winter, and not bathe with a hard plus in the head area and at the same time in felt boots so that the legs do not freeze. Secondly, there must be inertia sauna stove to be able to stop heating and steam without running around for firewood while constantly maintaining the desired temperature. It is desirable that the heat in the bath was two or three days to dry the premises. And thirdly, hot water should not boil in the steam room, but is located in the washing compartment in the remote tank.

As I already wrote, the Sochi stove from the Izistim company was chosen with a hinged heat exchanger for heating water.

The heat exchanger is equipped with inlet and outlet pipes with a diameter of one inch. The design is intended for lining with brick, which will simultaneously become a screen from hard infrared radiation emanating from metal and a heat accumulator. Before installation, it is required to heat the oven on the street in a gentle mode to burn the factory paint and eliminate the smell of burning when operating directly in the bath. A heat-resistant cord is laid on the door and blower, which is necessary for sealing. Previously, this was not the case, but the company's managers listen to the recommendations of consumers through communication on the forum and make the necessary changes.

A cast-iron grate is installed inside the combustion chamber. Additional sheets of metal are welded on the sides and at the end of the chamber to reduce the effect of the flame on the walls of the furnace in order to avoid deformation.

For relative thrust, he installed a meter-long pipe and conducted the first tests of a metal sauna stove. The draft even with such a pipe stub is quite good, only a slight flow of smoke from the door is observed when it is opened and, accordingly, a small amount of soot on the glass.

The foundation for the furnace is connected with the foundation of the bathhouse, reinforcement was carried out during pouring. To start masonry leveled the surface cement mortar so as not to damage the waterproofing. I laid a roofing material on the pedestal in two layers, on which I will begin to lay out the brick.

To rise above the floor level, and from the foundation it will be about 18-19 centimeters, we lay out the base under the oven three bricks high. There is a little trick. To save mortar and bricks, we lay out a “well”, and inside we simply place the worst brick and fill the remaining space with sand.

The sand will need to be slightly moistened and compacted so that it does not settle, but this is not necessary, the filling will not go anywhere.

Brick made by Kostroma, worth 24 rubles apiece. The geometry is normal, there are chips at the corners and edges, so you have to choose on the front side of the furnace. It pricks badly, it is better to cut with a grinder. For the solution, the furnace mixture "Makarov's Furnace House" is used. The solution sets quickly, holds the brick perfectly, and is easy to use. Bags of 25 kg, the cost is about 400 rubles per piece. One bag is designed for laying 60 bricks. The solution must be mixed with a powerful drill with a nozzle, it is unlikely that it will be possible to make a homogeneous mass with your hands. The mixture is well dried and water has to be added quite a lot.

I “sealed” the upper row of bricks at the base of the furnace with mortar, I wanted to install the structure on metal nickels - the legs of the furnace, it seemed to me, would push through the brick. But it turned out that in this case the neck with the door rises and a gap appears. Therefore, then he cleaned the solution, refused the lining.

I immediately tried on convection doors that will draw air from the rest room to the steam room for exchange. But, as it turned out later, they cannot be installed in this place, the decorative screen around the firebox will interfere.

The most difficult thing was to drag the stove into the bathhouse and not demolish anything along the way. The design of 130 kg was respected, and two stronger loaders had to be ordered. If for the first time a loader from the category of “legs and a cap” helped me to drag the stove to the bathhouse, then the masters really arrived. They pushed me away and in 10 minutes they hoisted the “piece of iron” to the place of operation.

I put a T-shaped outlet on the furnace to determine the root pipe. The picture shows a rear view, where the “lambs” are located for removing the roof and then cleaning the pipe from soot, although the manufacturers assured me of its absence.

The root pipe will run to the left of the furnace and also stand on a foundation connected to a common belt. We continue laying with the formation of a pipe.

The pipe will be functional only after the entrance of the T-shaped segment, so we make its sides one and a half bricks, and we also fill the internal space with sand.

Inside the steam room in the furnace screen, we install two more convection doors, but of a large size. This is needed for quick warm-up premises. We do not lay the top of the furnace with bricks, we leave space for stones. With the convection doors open, air is taken from the floor, passes near the furnace body and exits through the stones already heated. The air flow can be adjusted with a damper. Doors are hung from the side convenient for you.

I bought the doors from the Izistim company, they modernized the design by adding a stainless steel box along the width of the brick. Now it has become convenient to install the doors, without additional wire fastening. Small gaps are left along the perimeter (except for the bottom) of the doors, which compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

The root pipe, so that it passes between the rafters and does not take up much space, is located in line with the “face” of the stove screen. The T-shaped adapter goes a little to the side. In "Izistim" it was made for me with a margin. But, as it turned out, the size was the most suitable, as they say, do not subtract, do not add. A 4 mm stainless steel product cost 4,500 rubles.

It's time to hang the heat exchanger. I bought galvanized corners, spurs and couplings per inch, attached to the general structure, wrapping the threads with flax treated with a heat-resistant sealant (red in the picture).

Brickwork reached the top of the firebox. We install a support corner of 50 * 50 mm with an approach to a brick of 8-10 cm. Around the firebox there is a thermal gap of about 2 cm.

The front side is almost finished, the convection doors are set higher than planned, but for air exchange it is even more convenient, the air coming from the rest room to the steam room will not overheat. Contact with the heated oven is minimal.

We slowly close the heat exchanger with masonry and make outlets for the pipes for connection to the remote tank. The holes are not very neat and then I will close them with stainless steel discs or other decor that is not afraid of moisture. This is a wall in the washing room, it is planned to lay bricks up to the ceiling.

The facade of the stove is finished, the “fireplace” will go next, so that the hot air from the firebox when it is opened does not go directly to the ceiling, but has some obstacle. Yes, and you can put interior decoration items on a shelf.

The wall in the washing room is finished, the pipe outlets are made. It remains to buy stainless pipes and make connections with a mounted tank.

It's time to blow the pipe. Tying masonry from the steam room. The T-piece is connected to the sleeve through a tee. At the bottom of the tee, a cover is installed that allows you to drain condensate and clean the pipe from soot.

From the side of the steam room, the stove looks like this: the T-shaped adapter is covered with a brick screen from above. A corner 40 * 40 is taken as supports.

I will close the cavity above the stove and the adapter with stones for decoration and evaporation of various incense, there is no other function for these stones. And perhaps I will close the pipe with a sheet of stainless steel iron to avoid hard thermal radiation from a very hot metal.

We continue to build a pipe. In the place where the ceiling passes, we form a fluff in order to maintain fire-prevention distances from the "smoke" to wooden structures. As expected, the front and side walls of the furnace reached almost to the future ceiling.

According to the calculations, the root pipe should pass in the middle between the ceiling beams. And so it happened. The pipe has "grown" to the roof and it's time to make an opening.

And the "face" of the stove looks like this. Convection doors are located in one row with a pipe cleaning. It is still covered with clay, but it is already possible to understand what I want.

Next, we prepare the roof for the passage of the pipe. From the inside, the roof was drilled at the corners of the future passage with a margin of one centimeter. Bulgarian sawed out a metal tile on the roof. I got a passage almost strictly in the center of the ridge, which is convenient for the subsequent closing of the hole from the rain. And the snow will not put pressure on the brickwork.

First of all, we bring a sleeve from a stainless pipe into the opening, then we begin laying.

You should not be content with only the level, you will have to run down so that the pipe is visually even. "Otter", protection from the rain is made almost half a brick. And now the pipe, not yet cleared of clay, takes its prescribed forms.

The pipe was cleaned of clay and varnished for outdoor work on stone and brick in three layers. Each layer hardens about four parts at a temperature of +200°C. It turns out the effect of a wet stone and sealing the pores. The temperature at the top of the stove will roughly match the outside air, if only a little warmer, so the varnish is frost-resistant, withstanding sudden changes in temperature. We got the effect of a wet stone and sealing the pores on the brick and seams, which will protect the material from washing out.

Around the pipe he covered with material that remained from the manufacture of ebbs. Entry on the brick is about 1 centimeter under the "otter". The first rains showed the effectiveness of the design.

Firstly, clean the furnace from clay. Don't use water. So you will only rub the mortar inside the brick and you will not be able to get rid of the stains. If you do not want to spoil the outer part of the brick, then be patient, rags and brushes. You can use fine sandpaper.

Secondly, cover the oven with heat-resistant varnish, it is enough to use the composition up to 1500 ° C, you will no longer heat up the screen with all your desire.

And thirdly, put an umbrella on the pipe in order to avoid rain getting inside.

A little trick: to prepare the solution, take rainwater, thereby you can avoid salt stains on the bricks when the clay dries.

And, I will be happy to answer all your questions, since the report from the scene is far from complete and you may be interested in some of the nuances. We'll help you take pictures and show you.

To be continued! ( 1 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)

Bath in Russia occurred in ancient times, it was considered a ritual of purification. Since then, she has always been in good standing with the people, because she has a very good charge of positive energy, affects the feeling of lightness both physically and mentally.

The origin and benefits of the bath

Due to the high temperature and humidity, it helps the body cleanse all the pores without losing its own body heat, but rather gaining it. And just like that, steaming your bones is always nice.

Even in many well-known cases, people made different decisions and agreements, namely in baths or saunas. Since procedures such as baths also contribute to better, brighter thinking.

In Europe in the middle of the century there was an epidemic of cholera, which led to a huge number of deaths. And in Russia, it was thanks to such a useful bath custom that such a terrible disease was avoided. The bath has always been used by both high-status people and commoners.

Abroad for a long time they denied the connection between diseases and personal hygiene, they even tried to use different perfumes to get rid of the stink of their own bodies, and only then they accepted the fact of the connection between cholera and cleanliness of the body.

This is a very good and useful tradition to bathe with brooms with high temperature. That is precisely why baths in custom-made construction are always so expensive.

Construction of a log cabin

First you need to choose a suitable place and conditions for the construction of a bath, it is advisable to choose a firmer soil. It should be borne in mind that the bath should not be located near buildings and communications in order to avoid washing the foundation, raising their contents with drain water from the bath and clogging drinking water.

If it is not possible to choose a site with more suitable soil, then there are different types of a suitable foundation.

For a solid foundation, an ordinary strip foundation is suitable, but if the soil is not very dense, then you can make a pile foundation from asbestos-cement pipes or a pile foundation, but such two foundations are not as cheap as an unburied column foundation.

Then a drain is organized and a log house is built. For construction, there are many different materials, you can list for a long time, but they do not have the qualities that the original material has, namely wood.

Of course, a log house made of linden would be the most the best option, but it is practically no longer harvested, and it is almost impossible to find it. Oak is not very suitable for a bath, because because of it an almost unbearable, heavy steam is created in the bath, and the cost of this tree is very high.

It is most practical to build from conifers, such as pine or spruce. They will create an acceptable temperature and a minimum of costs and enough practicality.

Of course, if there are financial opportunities, then larch can also be purchased, it has the same temperature qualities, only with it the building will last much longer.

Then the roof is built. The rafters are made from timber. To begin with, the central racks are installed at the estimated roof height. Then a ridge and rafters are made, a crate is made. A coating is laid on the crate.

Interior decoration of the bath

The floors are assembled depending on the room, it will be a washing room, a steam room or a dressing room. The floor cannot be rigidly connected with the log house, the logs are inserted into the prepared slots, and it is desirable to make them from tar.

In the washing room, the floors are assembled with slots without sealing them with each other; For floors in the bath, it is desirable to use a tongue and groove board.

There are also different types of ceilings, but it is best to make a false ceiling, it is good for its strength and economy.

In the dressing room, it is necessary to install benches for rest and, if necessary, a table for convenience. Also in the room you will need hangers and various hooks for clothes and towels.

Shelves are installed in the steam room, sunbeds in two tiers. The upper tier is installed no higher than 110 centimeters from the ceiling, thus providing a more suitable temperature for a person, which will prevent him from overheating.

Doors and windows are best made without metal objects such as nails, self-tapping screws, screws. And in return, they use wooden dowels, it is better to use either wooden or plastic handles for doors and windows. Metal products are very overheated in the bath room, which can lead to thermal burns.

The sauna stove is one of the most important structures in this room, which can be called the “heart of the sauna”.

Photo of the process of building a bath with your own hands

Rest without a bath is not a rest. Replace bath with suburban area neither outdoor shower nor bathing can. Of course, if the budget is very limited, you should not aim at the construction of a two-story bath complex with a swimming pool. But it is possible to build a small cozy bathhouse on a suburban area with minimal investment.

In this article, we will look at how a budget bath is built with our own hands, reveal the secrets of choosing and saving building materials, and tell you how to prevent missteps and mistakes for novice craftsmen.

The most popular materials for building baths are wood, bricks and blocks. wooden bath can be in the form of a log house or frame.

Wood

Wood is a classic material for building baths. Wood is valued for its environmental friendliness and ease of processing. Wooden baths warm up quickly, and essential resins released into the air have a positive effect on the well-being of visitors.

However, wood is far from perfect option for construction. In order for the walls of the bath to be even, you need to choose a quality beam or log. Do not forget about shrinkage. The better the wood is dried, the lower the percentage of shrinkage and the risk that the log house will “lead”.

It is important to be able to work with an ax and a saw, to have sufficient physical strength and endurance to cut down locks to connect corners, external and internal walls, overlays. Of course, you can buy a ready-made log house with delivery to the site, but this is associated with additional costs and is not relevant for the construction budget bath. It is best to build at least two people, because alone it is extremely difficult to lay the crowns, especially the top ones.

Wood is best for building a bath hardwood, for example, linden. This material is considered relatively light, therefore, if the geological conditions of the area allow, you can save on the foundation and limit yourself to a lightweight tape option (monolithic or prefabricated).

What else can you save on? For example, on insulation and decoration. If the bath will be used for its intended purpose only in the warm season, there is no need to purchase insulation, battens for battens, steam and wind insulation, finishing decorative material for the facade of the bath. Wood, if properly sanded and coated protective impregnation, varnished, quite aesthetically pleasing and fits perfectly into landscape design private land plots.

In a budget bath, you can save on the organization of a full-fledged sewerage and water supply. Since ancient times, in Russian baths, the floors were made torrential, and water was carried in buckets in advance. Yes, this causes some inconvenience, but it will not spoil the overall pleasant impression of bath procedures.

What can't be saved? Wood is a highly flammable material. It is worth a little oversight, not closing the blower door, as a hot coal that has fallen out will lead to a fire and damage to property. A similar situation is possible if fire safety rules are neglected when installing the stove and Therefore, in no case should you save on:

• fire and bioprotective impregnation;
• fire cutting;
• materials for floor insulation in front of the firebox and

We strongly do not recommend saving on fasteners. Firstly, the difference will be insignificant, and secondly, low-quality metal hardware will quickly begin to rust, ugly black smudges will appear on the walls. The worst thing that rusted fasteners will lead to is the collapse of building elements due to the loss of nodes of their strength.

Very important in wooden baths proper ventilation. Even if the bath area is only 4-6 square meters. Visitors are unlikely to enjoy the smell of mustiness and mold, and the owner will not be pleased with rotting floors and walls.

Now more specifically about wood prices in order to roughly calculate construction costs.

lumber	Breed	Cross section or diameter, cm	Price in rubles per cubic meter
Profiled timber	Pine, spruce	140x140	From 11.5 to 14.5 thousand rubles.
Profiled timber	Larch	140x140	From 16.5 to 18.5 thousand rubles.
Kruglyak	Larch	180 to 460	From 8.5 to 10 thousand rubles.
gun carriage	Larch	150x250	From 15 thousand rubles.

*The average cost of building materials is relevant for 2017.

Based on the cost of new lumber, a budget bath will definitely not work. The way out of the situation is to buy a used beam at a price of 1,000 rubles per cubic meter or from 80 rubles per 1 piece. Used pallets can also come in handy if they are used correctly.

Bricks and blocks

A bath made of blocks or bricks will undoubtedly be more durable than a wooden one. Yes, and a sudden outbreak of fire is not terrible stone walls. At your taste and discretion, you can build a bath of any size and shape, if only funds and personal time allow.

Brick manufacturers always have a wide range of products from the most different forms, shades, textures. For example, by combining a brick of two different shades during the construction of walls, you can build a bath, which outwardly will be very neat and aesthetic.

On a note! IN brick bath the window can be replaced with glass blocks. They have sufficient light transmission. But in this case, it is important to take care of the arrangement of effective ventilation.

A brick bath warms up longer than a wooden one, and cools down much faster. brick walls need finishing, and this adds cost items to the overall estimate. For laying bricks, a cement-sand mortar is used, which can be bought ready-made and simply diluted with water in the right proportions, or prepare the mixture yourself and spend less money.

How much will it cost to build a bath from ordinary M100 bricks?

building material	Description	Price
	Width 120 mm, height 65 mm, length 250 mm.	From 6.20 RUB for 1 piece.
	It has the same dimensions as the ordinary. It is used for laying those walls that are exposed to direct heating. For example, fireclay bricks lay out a base for a furnace and a protective screen.	From 41 rub. for 1 piece.
	River sand for the preparation of masonry mixture or concrete mortar for pouring the foundation	From 68 rubles for 30 kg
	The purpose is the same as that of the sand. Fraction of crushed stone 5-20 mm.	From 86 rub. for 30 kg
	M400	From 195 rub. for 50 kg

For an example of calculating the cost of masonry, let's take a single brick and laying in one brick (the wall thickness will be 25 cm). Using the table data, we get:

• taking into account mortar joints per 1 sq. m of masonry requires 102 bricks;
• 102 bricks x 6.20 rubles. = 632.4 rubles.

Brick prices

Usually a brick is purchased with a margin of up to 15%, taking into account possible marriage. And to the cost of laying 1 square meter of the wall, you need to add the cost of the mortar. Do not forget that you may need a concrete mixer, grouting, a set of mason's tools, etc.

Foam blocks and gas blocks are materials that are increasingly used for the construction of baths. Their main advantage is the high speed of construction. Disadvantages are similar to bricks.

Blocks are laid with reinforcement of rows, fixation is carried out with special glue or cement-sand mortar.

For the construction of a bath, blocks with dimensions of 200 x 300 x 600 mm are often used. One such block costs from 93 rubles. For internal partitions, blocks of smaller thickness are suitable - 100 or 120 mm and cost from 50 rubles per 1 pc.

The number of blocks in 1 sq. m the following:

• with a wall thickness of 20 cm, in one square meter the walls will be 5.5 blocks (5.5 x 93 = 511 rubles);
• with a wall thickness of 30 cm, there will be 8.33 blocks in one square meter of the wall (8.33 x 93 = 774.69 rubles).

We conclude: for the construction of a budget bath, it is preferable to use not bricks, but blocks of 200 x 300 x 600 mm, construction should be carried out with a wall thickness of 20 cm. 1.4 kg per 1 sq. m of masonry) and do not forget that the blocks are purchased with a margin.

Important! In an effort to save money, you should not sacrifice the reliability and durability of the bath. You can always buy, for example, a used brick for a penny, but there is no guarantee that in the next decade such a brick, and with it the walls of the bath, will not begin to collapse.

A big plus of building a bath from blocks is the high strength of the walls, which is achieved by reinforcing the rows. Provided that the reinforcement is properly made, the walls will not crack. Even during the construction of a budget bath, you should not neglect the margin of safety of the walls, so that in the next few years you will not start doing overhaul baths.

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Construction of an aerated concrete bath with a brick plinth

We will consider the process of building a bath with dimensions of 6x5 m. This area is enough to equip three main rooms: a rest room or dressing room, a shower room, a steam room. If the free area on the site does not allow the construction of a 6x5 m bath, you can reduce the dimensions to 4x4 m, and divide the interior space into a dressing room and a steam room, without a shower and other amenities.

So, let's begin. Inspect your land, prepare a site for construction. It is necessary to remove debris, uproot stumps, remove the top layer of soil with grass growing on it, level and compact the site.

In advance, you need to prepare a bath project with the laying order. According to the drawings, it is easier to calculate the amount of building materials and conduct construction.

Make markings on the ground, dig trenches, fill in a shallow strip foundation. Don't forget the perfumes. You can read more about pouring technology.

It is important to carefully level the upper surface of the foundation during the pouring process. If, nevertheless, the base has horizontal deviations, it is necessary to level everything with a cement-sand mortar.

Step 1. We lay on the foundation tape waterproofing material, for example, strips of roofing material.

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

Step 2 We knead the cement-sand mortar for laying bricks. To prepare the solution, we use the proportions:

• cement M400 - 1 bucket;
• sifted river sand - 2 buckets;
• dishwashing detergent or any similar - from 50 to 100 ml.

Important! We recommend that you first add water to the concrete mixer or mortar container and detergent, then add cement and sand, with constant stirring. Consistency ready solution will resemble thick sour cream, and if you run your finger over the mixture, a clear, not blurry trace will remain. Mixing should be carried out from 3 to 5 minutes.

The finished solution is transferred to buckets and transported to the construction site.

Step 3 We begin laying the brick base. We will work from the corners of the bath.

We apply the mortar with a trowel on the brick. We lay the brick at the corner of the foundation (along the outer edge). We put a bubble level on the brick and, if necessary, knock out the brick with the handle of the trowel. Repeat the procedure on the next corner of the bath foundation.

It is important that the bricks laid at the corners are at the same level. To check, we stretch the mooring thread, additionally check the position of the bricks with a water level. We put the second brick on each of the corners perpendicular to the first.

We are laying the basement "in one and a half bricks." At standard sizes bricks, the total width of the base will be 38 cm. This width is the sum of one brick length (25 cm) and one brick width (12 cm), 1 cm is a bonding mortar joint.

Spoon out the first outer row. We lay the bricks on the mortar previously applied with a trowel, pressing into the mortar and slightly moving back and forth. We leave a gap between adjacent bricks, into which we add mortar with a trowel. Excess solution is immediately removed with a trowel. We knock out the bricks so that they are all in the same plane (the reference point is a stretched mooring thread). As a result, if you look at the base from the side of the "street", you will see a row laid "in half a brick".

We lay the inner row with a poke towards the future premises of the bath. Next, we lay the masonry according to the ordering scheme, observing the dressing of the seams.

We lay out 2 rows of bricks and proceed to the arrangement of the floor.

Step 4. To equip the floor covering, it is necessary to prepare the beams.

The beams must be fixed in the "nests" of the base to a depth of 10 cm. We measure the width interior, add 20 cm, we get the length of the beams. The cross section of the beams can be selected using the table.

*The cross section is indicated in millimeters. The beams are laid on edge. Maximum floor load 400 kg/m 3 .

We cut the roofing material into rectangular pieces 15 cm wide. We wrap the ends of the beams with roofing material, fix it with a construction stapler.

We lay the beams on the ends, observing an equal distance between them.

We continue with bricklaying.

We spread two more rows, observing the dressing. We also lay the brick between the beams, sawing it with a grinder if necessary.

The height of a single ordinary brick is 65 mm. Accordingly, two rows of bricks plus two mortar joints in height will be 150 mm, the upper surface of the beams will be flush with the surface of the brickwork.

Fourth row masonry

Recommendation! If the brick is pre-moistened with water (without soaking it), it will not absorb moisture from the solution. The lining will be very strong. The recommendation is relevant for work in hot weather.

Step 5 The basement is built, we proceed to the laying of walls from aerated concrete blocks.

We lay a layer of roofing material on a brick over the entire surface of the external and internal walls of the bath.

We start work again from the corners of the bath. We knead the solution, lay out a layer on top of the roofing material.

The solution is leveled with a notched trowel. Installing the first block.

Similarly, we install the second block on the adjacent corner of the basement. The most difficult thing is to bring both blocks to zero. We perform the check with a hydraulic level, a bubble level, if any laser level better to use it.

Haste is inappropriate here. If necessary, you can remove the block, remove excess solution, or add more solution. The horizontal deviation should not be more than two millimeters.

We lay out the first row of blocks on the solution. If the distance between adjacent blocks does not allow the installation of a whole block, it is necessary to cut with a hacksaw with small teeth. After cutting from the block, we sweep away the dust with a brush.

When laying out the blocks, do not forget about the doorway.

Step 6 We proceed to the reinforcement of the first row of blocks.

We are preparing a set of tools for work in advance.

Tool	Approximate minimum cost, rub.
	450
	490
	500
	600
	365

*Used tools will cost less.

For reinforcement, we use corrugated bars of class A3. Bar diameter 8 mm. Reinforcement of greater thickness is not advisable to take.

Using a manual wall chaser, we cut two grooves for the reinforcement. For convenience, you can draw in advance with a pencil on the surface of the blocks two parallel straight lines along the ruler. At the corners of the bath and at the junctions of the internal partitions with the external walls, the strobes are rounded, parallel.

We clean the surface of the strobe from dust using a damp brush.

We take the reinforcement and put it in the strobes. We bend the reinforcement at the corners. We pay attention that the reinforcement bars are not connected at the corners. The connection of bars is possible at a distance of more than 30 cm from the corners.

We take out the reinforcement from the strobe, put it on the surface of the blocks.

We knead the glue for aerated concrete (the approximate cost for 25 kg is 220 rubles).

Pour water into the bucket, then pour the dry mixture from the bag. We mix the glue with a drill with a mixer attachment at low speeds (up to 800 rpm). The consistency of the glue should be similar to thick sour cream. The glue should not spread.

We fill the strobes with glue. We spread the glue with a spatula. Embed the rebar in the glue. If necessary, add more glue on top of the laid reinforcement so that the surface of the gas blocks is smooth, without recesses or bumps.

Step 7 We proceed to laying the second row of gas blocks. We start traditionally from the corner. Let's start applying glue under the block.

Important! Do not forget about the need to lay blocks with a dressing similar to brickwork"in half a brick." The offset of the upper block relative to the lower one should be from 15 cm to ½ of the block length.

It is most convenient to apply glue with a ladle (trowel). The working width of the trowel must match the width of the block. This will allow you to apply the adhesive quickly and accurately. But sometimes builders use homemade devices, such as in the photo. The main thing is to evenly apply a thin layer of glue over the entire surface of the blocks.

On a note! The applied layer of glue can be continuous, but it is the use of notched trowels or special buckets that can reduce the consumption of glue.

We continue laying blocks of the second row. We check the correctness of the installation of the blocks in two planes - in the vertical and horizontal. If necessary, grind the surfaces of the blocks.

For the convenience of ligation of blocks, you can start laying from half a block. We cut the gas block with a hacksaw. We sweep away the dust with a brush. We apply a thick layer of glue (2-3 mm) to the ends of the block. Installing the block.

We continue laying blocks of the second row. We check the correctness of the installation of the blocks in two planes - in the vertical and horizontal.

Important! If the bath is more than 6 meters high, it is recommended to reinforce every fourth row of masonry.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Step 8 We turn to the laying of jumpers, their reinforcement.

There should be reinforced lintels above the window and door openings. The easiest way is to use U-blocks, but this comes at an additional cost.

To save money, you can manually make recesses in ordinary gas blocks. To do this, we make two cuts along the width of the notch on the block with a hacksaw, then remove the excess material using a chisel and a hammer.

For laying blocks, we make formwork from boards. Blocks will rest on the top of the formwork. We fix the horizontal board with props, fasten the elements with ordinary self-tapping screws.

The armored belt should protrude beyond the window and door openings by at least 15 cm. We install the blocks on the formwork. The ends of the blocks are fastened with glue.

Inside the blocks, closer to the outer edge, we lay pieces of EPPS (Penoplex) 50 mm thick.

We start knitting the armo-belt. We use plastic clamps (screeds) for binding. The armored belt consists of four long parallel bars, and every 0.5 m - vertical pieces of reinforcement. In cross section, the armored belt should form a square.

Important! It is impossible to lay the armored belt directly on aerated concrete. Plastic clips must be used. Without clamps, the armoframe will not take the correct position and will not be filled with concrete from all sides.

We install the frame with clamps and fill it with concrete flush with the edges of the gas blocks. We compact the concrete mixture by piercing with a bar or wooden lath. We level the surface as carefully as possible.

Now you need to make a technical pause and wait until the solution sets. This will take from 10 days to two weeks.

Step 9 So, the concrete in the lintels has frozen, we continue construction. If the height of the walls is insufficient, lay out another row of blocks. In our case, this row will be the final one on the first floor and at the same time will perform the function of an armored belt.

We make the armored belt on the floor using the same technology as the lintels, but with one difference. Now the armored belt will be filled along the entire perimeter of the outer and inner walls. For the sake of economy, we do not use U-blocks, but cut and hollow out solid wall blocks.

1. We lay the entire row of prepared blocks on the glue.

   

   

   

2. We install polystyrene boards. We cut them carefully, along the ruler, so that the edges are even.
3. We knit armoframe.

   

   

4. We put the clamps, put the frame inside the blocks.

   

   We pour concrete.

5. Leveling the surface.
6. We are waiting for the concrete to harden.

Step 10 The first floor cannot immediately end with a roof, of course. We proceed to the arrangement of the interfloor overlap. It will be wooden. Antiseptic beams with waterproofed ends are laid on the armored belt. A similar technology was discussed above when the plinth was being built.

But since now we are not laying a brick, but a gas block, we make cuts in each block under the ends of the beams.

It is important to accurately measure the distances between the beams and carefully select even rectangular niches in the blocks with a chisel and hammer. We carry out the laying of blocks in a standard way, observing the dressing, applying glue to the previous row and the ends of the blocks.

Important! In our construction example, the bath will have a small balcony. Therefore, several beams are carried outside the walls of the bath.

Step 11 We lay the subfloor. We lay the edged board on top of the beams. We fix the boards to the beams with self-tapping screws through the board. If the board is 50 mm thick, we take hardware 8 cm long.

We leave a rectangular opening in the floor for access to the attic.

In the future, when the floors are ready, windows and doors are inserted, decorative finishing will be carried out, a foil vapor barrier will be stretched in the steam room, lining or lining will be nailed simple board from hardwoods.

Step 12 Usually, a one-story bath is quite enough for the owners for a comfortable pastime. The space under the roof is often used to store fragrant bath brooms.

Sometimes in the bathhouse on the second floor they put a small sofa, a table, equipping a rest room. Our project provides just such a room on the second floor. After the bath procedures, it will be pleasant to relax, cool down, going out to the small balcony. A window on the second floor will increase the efficiency of ventilation and will reduce the cost of building materials.

Roof of complex configuration. On both sides there are two trapezoidal pediments, tightly laid with a gas block. And if you look from the side of one of these gables, the perpendicular slopes of the roof are clearly visible on both sides.

Advice! If you are not confident in your abilities, limit yourself to building a simple shed or gable roof.

The main stages of work during the construction of the second floor and roof:

• installation of vertical racks from a bar;
• installation of horizontal strapping;

  

• flooring of floor beams over the strapping;

  

  

  

• installation of extreme roof trusses along the gables;

  

  Floor beams and rafters

  

  

• installation of intermediate roof trusses;

  

• laying gables from blocks;

  

  

• installation of vapor barrier from the side of the room;

  

• filing the ceiling, slopes from the inside with a board;

  

• laying mineral wool in two layers;

  

• installation of wind protection on top of the insulation;

  

• installation of a counter-lattice under a metal tile;

  

  

• assembly of a gable canopy over the balcony, installation of a windproof membrane and a counter-lattice on the slopes of the canopy;

  

• installation of metal tiles and additional elements.

  

  

  

  

You can see how the roof of a complex configuration is being built in the video.

Prices for gas blocks

gas blocks

Video - Roof Construction

Video - Construction of gables

Video - Rafters, armored belt

Video - Completion of the installation of rafters, laying of aerated concrete walls of the second floor

Video - Overlapping, vapor barrier

Video - Roof insulation

Video - Counter-lattice for metal tiles

Video - Washed down the ends of the counter-lattice, filing the ceiling of the ceiling

Video - Laying metal tiles

Shed roof for a budget bath

Step 1. We fasten the Mauerlat over the armored belt. It is a board fixed with dowels (grouses).

We drill holes in the boards, and then in the blocks. We hammer dowels. We lay a layer of roofing material as a waterproofing. We put the Mauerlat board, screw in the screws (grouse).

Step 2. We install vertical racks and a horizontal strapping beam. The height of the front part is 130 cm, from the rear of the bath - 30 cm. The slope of the roof will be 18 degrees.

We fix the beams with metal perforated corners and wood screws.

On a note! So that the racks do not loosen from gusts of wind, we temporarily fasten the boards connecting the front and rear frames with self-tapping screws.

Step 3 We lay the rafters (we put straight boards on the edge and fasten them with perforated corners to the horizontal bars of the front and rear frames).

Step 4 Perpendicular to the rafters, we mount the boards of the counter-lattice.

Step 5 We fasten sheets of corrugated board. We cut off the counter-lattices sticking out along the edges of the board.

Step 6 We strengthen the frame with jibs. On the sides we install columns from a bar and one additional strut each, in order to attach the skin in the future.

Step 7 We hem the draft ceiling.

Step 8 Sheathe the frame with plywood. Plywood sheets are treated with a protective impregnation.

Step 9 We foam the gaps between the blocks and plywood.

Step 10 If the decorative finishing of the facade is not yet planned, we fix the protective visors made of tin.

As decorative finishes the facade of the bath, you can use plaster. It is necessary to choose a mixture for cellular concrete. Conventional cement-sand mixtures are not suitable for this purpose. Aerated concrete quickly absorbs all the moisture from the plaster, the decorative coating cracks and falls off.

To plaster the facade, you need to clean it with a grater from the remnants of glue, grind off the bumps, if any. After grinding, the walls must be primed with the Aerated Concrete-Contact primer. The plaster mortar is applied with a wide spatula over the fiberglass mesh fixed with self-tapping screws. After the plaster has dried, you can paint the facade or simply apply a water repellent.