Board fence installation. Wooden fence: as easy as shelling pears. Installation of a wooden fence

The fence not only encloses the territory, but is also an important part of the design. Manufacturers offer different kinds fences made of various materials: stone, marble, iron. But wood is considered almost universal. The main advantage of a board fence is its ease of construction and relative cheapness compared to other materials.

Create a fence with your own hands

Types of fences

There are two ways to get your own wooden fence: buy a finished product in the store or build it yourself. It is usually sold in standard sections. But having bought the right number of sections, you will have to install them yourself or hire workers. Given the individuality of each site and the not so wide variety of products offered, it makes sense to build a fence completely on your own. There are two types of fences:

from wooden planks;
from a bar.

According to the location of the boards or timber, they are horizontal and vertical.

Advantages of wooden fences: ease of manufacture and installation, attractive appearance, affordability, good maintainability and environmental friendliness. Of course, in the city, a fence made of wood will most often look ridiculous, but in the private sector or a summer cottage, such a fence fits perfectly into the interior design and landscape. It goes well with various decorative ornaments, such as carvings, balusters, sculptures. It can be decorated with drawings or simply painted in any shade.

In this video, consider a ventilated wooden fence:

Among the shortcomings of the design, its fragility is distinguished. This is due to the fact that the tree is susceptible to decay and the harmful effects of insects. The material absorbs moisture, as a result of which fungus and mold appear on it. A wooden fence is easily damaged mechanically, it is combustible and supports combustion.

Types of structures

Although a fence made of wooden boards can be of any kind, most often the same type of construction is used for it. This is due to the requirements for site fencing. The fence should not darken the area or let the wind through. Wooden type fences are rarely made deaf. In this case, the thickness of the material is selected in such a way that there is no windage. There are the following types of structures:

Palisade. This is a classic type of fence. It is assembled from a set of vertical stakes or boards fastened together by horizontal lags. The height of the vertical rails can be either the same or different. Such a fence well hides the inner area from prying eyes.
Lattice. In appearance, it is a product assembled from sections. The frame of the structure can be rectangular or square shape. Laths are fixed to it at an angle, after which perpendicular posts are installed, forming a lattice. This type is perfectly blown and looks quite attractive.
Ranch. This is the simplest type, which is designed to mark the boundaries of the site. It is made of wooden vertical poles, spaced from each other at a distance of one to several meters. They are connected using transverse poles, the number of which does not exceed three pieces per span.

However, due to its density, which increases after drying, larch creates some inconvenience in processing. For example, it is difficult to hammer a nail into it, and if it is clogged, it is impossible to pull it out. In addition, the larch board is resinous. Pine is a little worse in strength, but it is also cheaper, but at the same time it is harder to eat.

The choice of material depends on the style of the planned fence. If you plan to install a fence, which will subsequently be painted and processed with special means, then the type of wood does not matter much. And if the tree is varnished to preserve the structure, then the best choice there will be cedar.

For wicker fences, almond willow and vine will be used. A good option would be to buy already processed wood.

Calculation of the number of boards

There is a cut and unedged board. The first type of material is processed from four sides, the second - only from the ends. An unedged board is cheaper and is sold wet, so it should be borne in mind that it can deform when dried. Edged has best view. It is smooth, which makes it easy to handle.

On sale you can find a board specially prepared for the construction of a fence. It is already pre-processed and sold sliced.

Quantity the right material depends on the length of the fenced area, the type of fence and its height. In one case, a fence is built with wide gaps between the boards, in the other, close or overlapping. All this affects the final number of boards needed.

For their approximate calculation, the length of the future fence is measured with a tape measure, and then the height is determined. The height of two meters is considered optimal, which is why two-meter and four-meter boards are popular.

Once the dimensions are known, further calculation is quite simple. For example, the length was 50 meters or 5000 centimeters, and the width of the purchased board is 10 centimeters. Dividing 5000 by 10, we get 500. That is, 500 two-meter boards will be needed for 50 meters of the fence. If there is a gap between them, then its width is added to the width of the board, and when they overlap, it is subtracted.

This calculation is correct for vertically standing boards, but if a horizontal fence is planned from the boards, the calculations are done differently. You will need all the same initial data - the length and height of the fence. Then, taking into account the length of the purchased board, its required amount per section is calculated. For this, the expression K1 = H1/h2 is used, where:

K1 - number of boards, pcs.;
H1 - fence height, cm;
h2 - board width, cm.

For example, for a fence 2 meters or 200 centimeters high, you will need 5 boards 40 cm wide. To calculate the number of sections, divide the length of the fence by the length of the board. If the board is 4 meters and the fence is 50, then 50/4 = 12.5 sections. The result is rounded up, after which the total amount is calculated according to the formula K = K1 x K2, where:

K1 - number of boards per section, pcs.;
K2 - number of sections, pcs.

For the example under consideration, K = 13 x 5 = 65 pieces. An overlap or gap adjustment is made in the same way as vertically standing boards.

Materials and tools

When building a fence, it is necessary to adhere to a certain sequence. But before that, you need to purchase wood and process it. In addition, you need to prepare the surface and buy a number of materials used to strengthen the fence. Thus, for the fence device you will need to prepare:

wooden poles (supports);
boards;
marking stakes and cord;
screws or nails;
crushed stone, sand, cement brand M400;
antiseptic and bituminous mastic.

Concrete is made from crushed stone, sand and cement. It will be needed to strengthen the wooden posts in the ground. When mixing the mortar, the proportion is used: one part of cement, two parts of sand, three parts of crushed stone. For one cubic meter of concrete, about 125 liters of water are taken.

From the tool you will need a hole drill, a container for mixing concrete or a concrete mixer, buckets, shovels, a rammer, a screwdriver, a hammer, a jigsaw or a saw.

Sequencing

It is convenient to consider the sequence of work on a certain type of fence, for example, from a picket fence. At the same time, for another type of product, the principle of construction will remain the same, only the location of the supports will change. The picket fence is capital and popular. Before you make a fence from the boards with your own hands, you need to clean the perimeter along which the product will be installed, fill in the pits, and clean off the bumps. Fencing works are carried out in the following order:

The layout of the location of the future structure is carried out, then with the help of stakes the places of future supports are marked. Usually the distance between them is taken about two to three meters.
The supports are treated with an antiseptic and coated with bituminous mastic. All processing operations are done twice with an exposure interval between them of at least a day. You can replace the mastic with roofing felt or roofing felt, but this option is highly undesirable.
Digging holes according to the markup. Their depth is determined by the following rule: a wooden support must go into the ground to a depth of at least a quarter of its entire length. Usually it is about one and a half meters.

A ventilated fence will be a great addition to the decor on your site.

At the bottom of the pit, concrete is poured with a thickness of at least ten centimeters.
As soon as the concrete has set, a post is lowered into the pit. It is leveled, then the cavity is filled with a solution. After that, work stops for seven days, until the concrete gains strength.
A week later, a beam is fixed to the installed pillars. It can be nailed, screwed and inserted into grooves specially designed for it.
Fences are installed on the timber. They are fastened with nails. At the same time, the fences should not touch the ground - the minimum distance from it should be 5 cm.

The fence is ready. It remains only if necessary to paint or varnish it. If the fence is made horizontal, then instead of the last two points, boards are immediately attached to the supports, while they also should not touch the ground.

wicker fence

Wicker fences are made in a completely different way. In their manufacture, instead of boards, rods are used. Before starting work, the rods are soaked in order to increase their flexibility. Once the level of flexibility is sufficient, move on to the following steps:

Stakes are driven into the ground in increments of 30 and a depth of at least 35 cm.
A thin rail is nailed to the top of the stakes. It is designed to maintain the shape of the fence and prevent its curvature.
Then the first rod is laid. One of its ends is fixed on the front part of the first stake, and the other end is wound behind the second stake. With such a snake, he is passed through all the stakes.
The second and subsequent rods are laid in the same way.
The rail is removed, and the fence is varnished.

Building a wooden fence on your own is a good option save money and get an attractive fence. At proper care it can last more than ten years.

Do-it-yourself manufacturing and installation wooden fence allows not only to save effort and money, but also to logically complete the ensemble of site design. As a result, here, under the reliable protection of an attractive and durable fence, an atmosphere of genuine home peace, warmth and comfort will immediately settle down. But building a fence made of wood - a very capricious material - requires thorough preparation. And it is best to start it with a fascinating acquaintance with a variety of constructive and design solutions. After all, after making a choice it will not be difficult at all.

Wood in the construction of fences: advantages and disadvantages

Wood is an inexpensive and convenient material for technical processing and decoration, which is traditionally used in the construction of fences for private areas.

Despite the availability of more durable and practical material solutions - euro fence, metal, corrugated board, brick or stone - the demand for wooden fences will always be high.

The reason for this is the tree's list of virtues, which includes:

environmental friendliness;
unique decorative qualities;
a wide selection of textures and shades of wood species;
ease of processing;
ease of installation;
simple replacement structural elements fence during operation;
low cost.

Wood is an environmentally friendly natural material that is perfectly combined with other building materials and is able to harmoniously fit into any decision on the design of the fenced area. For the construction of a wooden fence, one, maximum two pairs of working hands is enough and no special knowledge, skills and tools are required. It is noteworthy that wooden fences are much cheaper than brick or metal ones, and their construction takes much less effort and time. And most importantly: a wide variety of wood species, as well as design and decoration methods, open up the widest scope for design ideas not only during construction, but also directly during the operation of the fence.

Along with the advantages, the tree has a number of disadvantages, which must be taken into account when choosing this material.

The disadvantages of wooden fences include:

Fire hazard.
Low resistance to climatic factors.
Attractiveness to pests.
susceptibility to decay.
Short service life (about 10 years).

To partially compensate for these shortcomings, the wood used in construction must be treated with flame retardant, antiseptic and pest repellents. In addition, the material must be reliably protected from moisture, dampness and sudden changes in temperature. All this entails additional costs of money and time both at the construction stage and during the operation of the fence.

Good to know: In practice, to increase the service life wooden fences various methods are applied. So, in order to prevent soaking and rotting of the support poles (if they are made of wood) and the picket fence, their upper ends are closed with plastic or other plugs. suitable material. For the same purpose, the lower edge of the fence canvas is placed at a height of at least 15 cm from the soil level. Finally, during the operation of the fence, it is necessary to regularly mow the grass growing nearby, not forgetting to carefully monitor the condition of the transverse logs and their attachment points to the supports.

Variety, types

So, the construction of the fence can be performed in order to:

designation of the boundaries of the territory;
ensuring privacy (protection of what is happening inside the perimeter from prying eyes and ears);
protection against unauthorized entry;
reducing the intensity of external noise or wind load;
fencing of potentially dangerous areas (roads, cliffs along the banks of rivers and reservoirs, steep slopes, etc.);
decorative design of the site.

In accordance with the purpose of the fence, its design is selected, which can be:

Deaf.
Trellised (with gaps).
Combined.

When choosing the type of fence construction, one should not forget about its design. The fence should fit into the existing landscape and be in harmony with the design of the objects located in the fenced area.

The most widely used are the following options for the design of wooden fences:

"classic";

It is a simple solid or ventilated structure with metal or wooden supports installed in bottles or on concrete, crossbars made of wooden beam and sheathing from standard edged boards.

fence (vertical or horizontal);

As a sheathing for such a fence, a picket fence is used - a thin plank with a straight or beveled upper end. Sheathing can be installed both vertically and horizontally with or without clearance.

lattice;

The sheathing of the lattice fence is equal-wide strips (slats) installed crosswise vertically, horizontally or at an angle of 45 °. Laths are mounted with a gap or close at the same distance from each other or in groups, which allows you to create a decorative pattern of the fence canvas.

"chess" (deaf or with clearance);

A complicated version of the picket fence with a deaf or blown staggered arrangement of the skin on both sides of the fence. The elements of the staggered cladding are installed with a slight offset in a vertical, horizontal position or diagonally across the canvas.

ladder (herringbone);

The cladding elements of such a fence are mounted with clearance or overlapped at a certain angle along the longitudinal axis (vertically or horizontally). The rotation of the fence boards is provided with the help of calibrated gaskets.

network;

The canvas of a wicker fence is thin strips or branches of a vine, braiding the vertical or horizontal edges of the supporting frame. Braid is quite difficult to manufacture, but provides high resistance to force and has bright decorative qualities.

palisade;

The palisade fence is a solid canvas made of logs with pointed ends. Such fences are difficult to overcome and, moreover, to break, besides, they provide complete privacy of the territory inside the perimeter of the fence, as well as excellent sound and wind insulation.

log paving;

The log fence is mounted from tightly fitting horizontally located logs. The latter can be solid or sawn along the longitudinal axis. Log paving is a serious barrier for intruders and provides reliable concealment of what is happening inside the perimeter of the fence from prying eyes and ears.

"ranch";

An open-type fencing, the canvas of which consists of several crossbars, additionally fastened with lags located diagonally. Ranch fences serve to mark the boundaries of a private area or protect against the entry of large animals, although they can also serve as decorative functions.

"cross".

The supports of such a fence, installed in most cases on a separate or tape concrete base, are equipped with side grooves into which longitudinal sheathing elements are inserted - fence boards or beams of appropriate thickness. Another version of the fence in the style of "cross" has horizontal plating, which is mounted on vertical crossbars, based on support pillars and a concrete foundation.

This is not the whole classification. So, fences of the “vertical picket fence” group are found in such varieties as:

solid palisade;
palisade with gaps;
cat or dog ears;
private;
peak;
concave or convex, etc.

Good to know: In practice, combinations are often used various types structures, which gives the fence an original appearance, and in some cases additional resistance to force.

Original designs in the photo: decorating a summer house or a private house

Wooden fence along the road Deaf wooden fence with the functions of protection and ensuring the privacy of the territory Wooden fence with combined cladding Decorative vertical picket fence Concave vertical fence Fully lined fence horizontal picket fence Combined style horizontal log fence Rounded wooden picket fence as part of a convex canvas of a wooden fence Fence in the style of "cross" with brick pillars Ranch style fence for fencing suburban area Wooden fence with a horizontal log crate Wooden fence in the style of "solid palisade" Wooden fence with woven fabric construction

Preparation for construction

The construction of a wooden fence, like any other object, begins with the design. To solve this problem, you will need a cadastral plan of the fenced area, where the perimeter of the latter is indicated. If there is no plan at hand, the measurements will have to be performed independently.

The perimeter value is the basis for further design, so it must be calculated with maximum accuracy. The data obtained should be transferred to a pre-drawn diagram of the site on a scale. In the future, this will facilitate the task of calculating the size and number of sections of the fence, as well as creating a working sketch of the latter.

Territory marking

To mark the site for the future fence, you will need wooden or metal pegs about 60 cm long, twine (or linen rope) and a hammer. First of all, by driving a peg into the ground, you need to set the corner marks.

The next step is to determine the location of the gate and the entrance gate. As a rule, they are placed together. Standard Width the gate is 1–1.5 m, and the size of the gate is taken in the range of 2–2.5 m, but in practice it all depends on the needs of the site owner.

Please note: When marking the territory, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the supports, and if they are planned to be installed on the foundation, then its width. To do this, you need to use 2 rows of marks - along the outer and inner edges of the supporting posts or foundation.

At the end of the design survey, the results obtained should be transferred to the plan of the fenced area. This will allow you to see the big picture and quickly eliminate errors made during planning.

What materials to choose?

The next step after the development of the main plan is the selection and calculation of materials for the construction of the fence. For this you need:

decide what material the support pillars will be made of;
accept the method of mounting supports;
calculate the main parameters of the fence (number of supports, section sizes and the number of transverse logs);
determine the material from which the skin will be made;
calculate the volume of sheathing (the number of fence boards 1.8 m long);
determine the method of installing transverse logs and cladding, as well as select the type and calculate the number of fasteners.

The choice of material for the support pillars is not difficult: the most preferred option is a metal profile pipe with a cross section of 60 * 60 mm (for corner supports) and 50 * 50 (for intermediate columns). Proper preparation for operation and proper installation will ensure the service life of such supports for at least 30 years.

If the soil in the fenced area belongs to the category of inactive, i.e. when the seasons change, its layers practically do not move, and groundwater occurs at great depths (below 1.5 m), the supporting pillars of a wooden fence can be installed by backfilling or partial concreting.

Finally, as a transverse log for a fence with a section length of 2.5 m and a web height of 1.8 m, it is advisable to use wooden bars with a cross section of at least 40 * 40 mm.

Calculation

When designing, a number of design requirements that apply to wooden fences should be taken into account. Strict observance of these requirements will allow you to create a truly reliable, strong and durable fence.

Basic design requirements:

The size of the section should not exceed 2.5 m in order to avoid sagging of the transverse logs under the weight of the skin.
Support posts are installed in the soil to a depth equal to the freezing depth of the latter (80–120 cm), but not less than a quarter of their total length. When choosing a method for mounting supports, it is necessary to take into account the level of groundwater, as well as the soil composition that affects the behavior of the soil during the change of seasons.
To give the fence the necessary reliability and stability, the corner supports, as well as the side posts of the gates and gates, must be thicker than the intermediate ones.
The bottom line of the fence canvas should be at least 15 cm above the soil level.
Support posts should be at least 10 cm higher than the fence canvas.

Good to know: If there are irregularities or a slight slope on the site, it is advisable to level the soil. This will greatly simplify the task of installing the fence structure.

The calculation of the fence parameters is carried out in several stages:

Let's assume that the plot has the shape of a trapezoid with bases 29 and 40 m long and sides measuring 25 and 20 m. The perimeter value is calculated by summing all sides of the figure:

P \u003d 29 + 40 + 20 + 25 \u003d 114 m;

If the gate and the gate are installed side by side on the line of the small base of the trapezoid, the length of the fence on this side of the site will be the difference between the total length of the segment and the total width of the gate and the entrance:

l 1 \u003d 29 - (1.5 + 2.5) \u003d 25 m;

In this case, the total length of the fence will be:

L \u003d 25 + 40 + 20 + 25 \u003d 110 m;

Now you can count the number of fence sections, each of which is 2.5 m long:

n sections \u003d L / l sections \u003d 110 / 2.5 \u003d 44;

Having the exact number of sections, we calculate the number of supporting pillars using the formula:

N supports = n + 1 = 44+ 1 = 45;

Please note: Corner supports and posts on the sides of the gate and wicket must be thicker than the intermediate ones. Their number is 6 pieces - 4 at the corners of the site and 2 at the entrance and gate. Accordingly, the number of intermediate supports will be equal to: 45 - 6 = 39 pcs.

Next, you need to calculate the height of the support pillars. With a soil freezing depth of 80 cm, a fence height of 1.8 m, and also taking into account the requirements for the height of the supports, it turns out that the total length of each of them will be:

L supports \u003d 1.8 + 0.1 + 0.15 + 0.8 \u003d 2.85 m;

The last step in the preliminary calculations is to determine the number of transverse lags of the fence. If we take the height of the latter equal to 1.8 m, 2 crossbars will be needed for each of the sections. Thus, the total number of lags will be:

n lag = n sections * 2 = 44 * 2 = 88;

As a result of the calculations, we get the exact number of structural elements of the fence:

39 intermediate supports;
6 corner supports;
88 transverse logs.

On this, the main calculations within the framework of the fencing project can be considered completed. To start practical implementation project, it remains to choose the skin material and calculate its volume.

What boards to choose for sheathing?

The choice of fence sheathing depends on the style of the latter, as well as on the method of protecting the wood. As a rule, conifers are chosen for outdoor fences with a predominantly protective function - pine, spruce or cedar.

If design priority appearance The fence was given over to its decorative qualities; for cladding, hardwoods - oak, beech, ash and birch are much better suited. The strength indicators of such a fence will be low, but with proper processing it will look very expressive.

Cedar belongs to expensive and rare conifers. It is distinguished by the presence of a bright and beautiful texture and high wear resistance.

As for oak fences, they are not common - their construction is too expensive.

Other types of deciduous and coniferous trees although they have good flexibility and fracture strength, they are poorly resistant to moisture, so they are practically not used in the construction of fences.

The most affordable and cheapest wood is pine and spruce. It is densely saturated with resin, which is an excellent protection against dampness, mold and decay, and has an optimal humidity for outdoor use (15-20% when dried properly). Spruce wood is softer than pine, so it is easier to cut. But in terms of knotty material, spruce species are certainly in the lead: in pine, knots begin at a considerable height, while in spruce - almost immediately from the ground.

Please note: If spruce or pine is chosen for cladding a wooden fence, you should prepare in advance for the fact that these species show an increased tendency to crack. This spruce and pine wood is due to the nature of the fibers and the abundance of knots. This means that the material must be bought with some margin, since part of it will inevitably go to waste.

Fence sheathing calculation

The last step before going to the building materials store is to calculate the number of fence boards needed to create the canvas of the fence under construction. This value is calculated as follows:

First you need to take the amount of clearance between the fences. Suppose it will be equal to 4 cm.
We measure the width of one fence board. Let it be equal to 15 cm.
The length of one section of the fence is known - it is 2.5 m, i.e. 250 cm. If the boards were installed closely, 16 units could go to the section. But with a 4 cm clearance, this number can be safely reduced to 13.
We check the correctness of our choice. The total width of the boards will be: 13 * 15 \u003d 195 cm. Then the width of the gaps between the boards (taking into account the fact that there will be 1 more gaps than the picket) will be equal to: (13 + 1) * 4 \u003d 52 cm. Together it will come out: 195 + 56 = 251 cm, which differs by only 1 cm from the value of the length of the fence section, and this value can be easily compensated by increasing the size of the extreme gaps by 0.5 cm.
We calculate the number of boards required for sheathing the entire fence (without the gate leaf and wicket): 13 * 44 \u003d 572 pcs.

Good to know: A standard wooden fence has a thickness of 1.5 - 2.5 cm. This value is important when calculating the volume of boards required for fence sheathing. So, with a fence height of 180 cm, a board width of 15 cm and a thickness of 2 cm, the sheathing volume will be: 180 * 15 * 2 * 572 \u003d 3,088,800 cm 3 or almost 3.1 cubic meters.

construction tool

Preparation for the construction of a wooden fence includes the collection of tools that will greatly simplify and greatly speed up the work. This list should include:

jigsaw;
circular saw with discs for metal;
welding machine;
wood saw;
electric drill with a set of drills for wood and metal;
shovel and crowbar;
garden earth drill;
hammer and pliers;
a set of screwdrivers and wrenches;
electric planer;
emery on wood;
woodworking brushes protective composition and paint;
building level and plumb;
measuring cord (twine);
construction tape.

Please note: In the process of building a fence, you will definitely need fasteners. For a simple fence, galvanized nails can be used, but self-tapping screws or bolted connections are much more durable. It is noteworthy that for the latter, you will have to prepare through holes in the picket fence and transverse lags in advance.

How to make a wooden fence with your own hands: step by step instructions

The construction of a wooden fence can be divided into three stages:

Installation of supporting pillars.
Installation of crossbars.
Frame sheathing.

Each of them deserves a more detailed description.

Installation of supports

Let's assume that the soil in the fenced area allows the installation of supporting fence posts using the backfilling method. Consider how this is done using the example of one of the supports:

By using garden drill, scrap and shovels in one of the corners of the site we make a hole 1–1.2 m deep and 40–50 cm in diameter.
At the bottom of the pit we lay and carefully tamp a sand cushion 10–15 cm thick.
Place a support in the center of the hole. This is a profile pipe. square section, the outer edges of which should be parallel to both sleeves of the fence.
At a height of 20–25 cm, at the bottom of the pit, we pour a mixture of crushed stone with sand and carefully tamp it down.
We check the vertical of the support and the parallelism of its faces to the sleeves of the fence.
We fall asleep the next portion of the pillow of sand and gravel, tamp it down and again check the position of the support. And so to the very top of the pit.

Good to know: The sand-stone pillow will lie more densely during the backfilling process if it is abundantly moistened with water, while not forgetting to add sand.

Installation of transverse logs

Fence crossbars made of wooden beams are most conveniently mounted using homemade brackets. They are made of a metal corner 35*35 mm. But in order to save time and materials, ready-made brackets can simply be bought at the store.

Installing the lag is done as follows:

Please note: The distance between the lags can be reduced if necessary, but this will adversely affect the strength of the fence along the upper and lower edges of the web. The support should be at least 5-10 cm above the sheathing, and the bottom of the latter should be at least 10-15 cm from the soil line.

Frame sheathing

Before proceeding with the installation of fence boards, we note that there are at least two ways to solve this problem. One is that the fence is mounted on the logs before the latter are installed on the supports:

First of all, you need to set the crossbars at the right distance from each other, observing a single plane. This can be done using pre-prepared coasters from improvised materials.
It does not hurt to make templates in advance, with which it is convenient to lay out the gaps between the boards.
The lower (or upper) edge of the canvas also does not hurt to put under the ruler. As such, you can use any of the remaining crossbars, set at the desired distance from the mounted one.
Using self-tapping screws or bolts, we mount the fence boards on the transverse logs. In this case, care must be taken not to cause deflection or any other stress in the web structure.
We raise the finished canvas of the fence and fix it with bolts on the previously welded brackets. This will require at least two pairs of working hands. In addition, you will have to prepare stands 10–15 cm high. With their help, it will be much easier to fix the canvas with lags on the brackets, which is necessary for successful landing bolted structures.
If the fence boards were installed without deforming the crossbars, and the latter were set exactly, their ends will easily fit on the brackets.

Please note: The second way to install the sheathing is to install each board separately. With this approach, it becomes more difficult to place the fence boards in a strictly vertical position and at an equal distance from each other, and tension is also created in the web structure due to the deflection of the crossbars under the weight of the skin.

Protection and finishing: how to cover and paint

Wooden fence is operated outdoors all year round. And this means that all structural elements need reliable protection from moisture, temperature fluctuations, pests, rust and fire.

Good to know: The metal elements of the fence frame, especially in areas with welded and bolted joints, must be primed and coated with paint before installation. Before starting the main work, it also does not hurt to remember that the legs of the supporting pillars installed in the ground need additional waterproofing. It can be done with roofing felt or bitumen. But first, to isolate the internal space profile pipe plugs must be welded to its lower and upper ends.

In addition to moisture, harmful microorganisms and pests, ultraviolet radiation leads to a decrease in the life of a wooden fence. It accelerates the oxidation of wood fibers and evaporates the moisture contained in it. As a result, wooden fencing elements lose not only their external attractiveness, but also their bearing capacity. To exclude premature wear of the structure, when applying the impregnation, it is recommended to use special additives - UV hardeners.

The impregnating composition is laid in several layers on a deep penetration primer. Primed and impregnated wooden surfaces covered with moisture-resistant varnish or paint, which serve as the finishing touch in protecting the fence from aggressive operating factors.

Please note: Primers and impregnations change the color of wood, which must be taken into account when designing a wooden fence design.

The condition of the wooden fence must be closely monitored throughout the entire period of operation. Any damage or material wear should be repaired immediately, which will significantly increase the service life of the structure. As for the choice of how to design a wooden fence, it depends on many factors, the main ones being the aesthetic preferences of the site owner and his financial capabilities. For example, a finished fence can be decorated or even reinforced with forging, giving it an original color by experimenting with impregnations and top coat, decorate with glass or stone inserts, etc. At the same time, you can decorate the fence gradually, the main thing is to reliably protect it from destruction by moisture, pests and fading in the sun at the very beginning.

Video: We build a wooden fence on our own

Building a wooden fence with your own hands requires careful preparation. Even at the design stage, you need to carefully study the building materials market and try to determine the conditions under which the fence will be operated. With careful attention to the basic design requirements, as well as the vagaries of the base material independent construction fence will take a minimum of effort and bring maximum pleasure and benefit.

The construction market is now expanse. What only materials for fences are not sold. Can be built stone wall with forged ornate patterns or a solid brick fence without frills, solid plastic sheets in an urban style or economical - from corrugated board, stretch the mesh or set up metal posts. There is a rotation of trends, today they prefer one type of fencing, tomorrow another. But there is one group that does not obey fashion trends. They are always in demand. These are wooden fences. About their types, pros and cons, about how to make a wooden fence for a country or country house with your own hands, and many, many photos - in our article.

Types of wooden fences

A wooden fence around a residential building or in a country house, especially made by oneself, is a subject of special pride for the owner. The degree of involvement in the process of its construction can be different: from the installation of finished processed elements to the independent cutting of trees, wood processing, and so on.

Before you go to the building hypermarket for shopping or into the woods with an ax, you need to decide on the type of fence that will be built. They are different.

The first classification separates the types of fences depending on the functional purpose. They are built for:

designation of territorial boundaries;
penetration protection uninvited guests including animals;
providing isolation from the attention of passers-by and neighbors;
limiting noise, wind, dirt, dust and similar disturbances;
fencing of dangerous areas - ravines, steep slopes of reservoirs, roads and others;
landscape decorations.

Depending on the functions performed, the fence is built:

deaf;
transparent (mesh or lattice);
combined.

According to the construction technology, fences are distinguished on the foundation and without it.

When choosing, you should take into account the general style of the site, the fence should organically fit into its design and be combined with buildings. Consider the types of fences in terms of design in more detail.

Fence - the most popular type of wooden fence

The basis for such a fence is a wooden plank with a flat or beveled end. The standard version looks like this: they are driven into the ground or fixed with concrete mortar support pillars, horizontal logs are attached to them, and boards are already screwed vertically to them.

The organization of such a fence made of wood is considered the fastest and most economical. If desired, you can make it yourself, and with proper care, such a fence will last for many years. This explains its widespread popularity.

Another advantage of the picket fence is the ability to limit the site without shading the territory. This can be achieved by mounting pickets not solid, but with gaps.

If a standard fence seems boring, you can decorate it, for example, by installing a lattice at the top of the fence or diluting a solid canvas with them in the spans.

Another version of the described fence is the horizontal fastening of the lamellas. By the way, the longitudinal planks look great in the design of beds, shelves, benches, interior borders.

Palisade - simple but reliable

Palisade is a wooden solid massive fence, consisting of closely standing logs with pointed tops. Such fences are very strong, impressive, they are difficult to overcome and break, they provide reliable sound insulation.

The paling cloth can be made independently. To do this, the processed stakes are sharpened at an angle of 40 degrees and set in a tight row. Of course, a lot of wood for construction will be required.

The described fence will stand for a long time, but it is not eternal. Due to the fact that during its installation the pouring of the foundation is not provided, over time the logs loosen and settle.

If the owner feels sympathy for palisade fences, but at the same time their massiveness is not needed, it is proposed to opt for a bamboo palisade. This fence is also wooden, it will give the estate a touch of exoticism.

Lattice or beautiful perforated wooden fence

The sheathing of a lattice fence consists of planks (usually of the same width) crossed vertically and horizontally or at an angle of 45 degrees. They can be mounted close to each other or with clearance, at equal distances or in groups, using strips painted in different colors and processed with varnishes, creating an original ornament.

This beautiful wooden fence looks like an openwork pattern. True, there is no need to talk about outstanding strength. As a rule, this type is chosen to perform the tasks of homestead zoning and decoration.

Often decorative wooden lattice fences are used as a support for climbing plants and flowers. The result is something like a living wall or panel. Another way to emphasize the elegance of such fences is to decorate the gates and gates with pergolas, arches, columns, canopies in the same style.

It is not difficult to make such wooden fences with your own hands.

This is the name of a complicated kind of picket fence, when the planks are attached alternately from the outer and inner sides of the frame, that is, in a checkerboard pattern. The location of the shtaketin can be deaf (close or overlap) and blown, if left between the elements small space. Offset can be horizontal, vertical or diagonal. Such a wooden fence looks more elegant than a regular one.

Maybe the description sounds confusing, but the order of collecting a "chess" is no more difficult than a standard picket fence. It is only important to observe the order of fastening the slats.

The ranch is not only American

When the name sounds similar, the imagination immediately draws a picture of a spacious fenced pasture with cows walking along it and a brave prancing cowboy on a horse, in a hat and with pistols. Nevertheless, fences of this type have long been used in our area. As a rule, with their help, they delineate the boundaries of vegetable gardens, orchards, and spaces for grazing livestock. Sometimes the ranch serves as a decorative fence.

Structurally, a ranch-type fence consists of supports with several large horizontal and sometimes diagonal lags.

During the construction of fences of this type, the planks are attached to the frame with a gap or overlap at a given angle relative to the vertical or horizontal planes. The inclination of the cladding elements is ensured by calibrated pads.

It is not difficult to build such a fence yourself. The procedure is standard. First, the support pillars are installed, then the wooden lining. Usually, channels serve as the basis for fastening, making it easier to maintain the same angle of inclination. It is important not to forget about the cushioning material between the boards, which will provide sufficient ventilation, and, therefore, protection from decay.

Blinds like a kind of wooden fence

Fences, made in the form of "blinds", look very unusual. Boards are laid horizontally at an angle downwards. The result is a ventilated impenetrable fence. The distance between the bars can vary.

The standard design of such fences involves the organization of a local or strip foundation, and grooves are formed in the supports thus strengthened. Bars of preferably equal width are inserted into these holes (as an option, fence boards). Another option for fastening the beams is on vertical crossbars. An alternative name for such fences is "cross".

Wicker wooden fences

A "braid" is a design in which vine branches or thin wooden planks go around vertical or horizontal logs. Such a fence looks authentic, it is used in the design of the semi-antique site. Despite the apparent simplicity, the manufacture of such a wooden fence is not an easy task.

Another deceptive impression is fragility. The fact is that the skin elements are attached in a curved position, and, striving for straightening, they will fit quite tightly to the frame.

Basic requirements for fences

In order for wooden fences, curbs and other fences to be strong, reliable and stand for many years, it is necessary to adhere to the following design requirements for their construction.

The maximum section length is 2.5 m. This is due to the fact that wood is not a lightweight material, so failure to follow this recommendation will lead to an increased load on the supporting frame and sagging of the structure.
The installation depth of the support pillars should be equal to the depth of soil freezing in the region (usually 80-120 cm). In this case, the size of the underground part of the support must be at least a quarter of its total length. It is also important to take into account the level of groundwater, soil characteristics and other factors that can affect soil properties in the off-season.
The support pillars located at the corners of the perimeter and serving as the base for the gates and wickets should be thicker.
The distance between the bottom line of the canvas and the ground must be at least 15 cm.
Support posts should rise above the upper boundary of the fence sheathing by at least 10 cm.

Wooden fencing: pros and cons

Wood is a raw material traditionally used to build a fence. Despite the saturated market of building materials, which includes both classic metal, brick and stone, as well as modern European fence, corrugated board and polycarbonate, the demand for wood is consistently high. This is due not so much to habit as to the outstanding virtues of wooden fences. They differ:

environmental friendliness;
attractiveness and originality;
variability of colors and textures;
ease of processing;
ease of installation;
the possibility of prompt replacement of worn structural elements;
cheapness and availability.

Wood goes well with most building materials and harmoniously fits into the design of any site. Such a fence can easily be built alone, special knowledge and skills are not required for this. The cost of wooden fences is lower than the popular brick, stone or metal fences, and the installation process is much easier and faster. The main unique advantage of these fences is due to the natural wealth, which gives a variety of textures and shades of wood for decoration.

It will be wrong if the shortcomings of the considered fences are not listed. There are few of them, but it is important to consider them when choosing a material:

tendency to ignite;
dependence on climatic factors;
vulnerability to harmful insects;
the likelihood of development of putrefactive processes;
limited service life (on average, 10 years).

Some of the listed shortcomings can be successfully stopped by treating boards, beams, logs with an antiseptic, flame retardant or a special pest control agent. To limit the impact of moisture, the upper ends are covered with protective strips and plugs, and the lower edge is not lower than the recommended level. For the same purpose, it is important to regularly get rid of vegetation in contact with the canvas.

How to make a wooden fence

So the decision has been made. A wooden fence will be built. Where to start? Like any serious event, the first stage is design. It is better if there is a cadastral plan of the site with precisely marked boundaries. The perimeter value indicated in this document is the main reference point. To facilitate the work, it is recommended to transfer the site diagram in compliance with the scale on paper.

Now you can start marking. This will require pegs, twine and a hammer. First of all, the locations of the corner supports are marked with stakes, after which a rope is pulled between them. Next, marks are driven in, indicating the location points of the gate, gate and all supporting pillars. After all the manipulations are completed, the results are transferred to a schematic drawing.

What tools will be needed

The following materials will be used to build an ordinary wooden fence with their own hands:

boards, picket fence, beams or others, in accordance with the project;
support posts or materials for their construction (metal, brick, concrete, wood);
cross boards or pipes;
cement, crushed stone, bituminous mastic;
fasteners (self-tapping screws, nails, bolts, and so on).

You should take care of the full arsenal of construction tools in advance, which includes:

shovel, crowbar, earth drill;
tools for working with wood - an ax, a jigsaw, a hacksaw, a planer, emery;
saw with discs cutting metal;
electric drill with sets of drills for wood and metal, screwdriver;
welding machine;
building level, plumb line, tape measure, twine;
hammer, pliers, screwdrivers, wrenches;
brushes for coloring and coating with protective agents.

The choice of wood species and its processing

The choice of wood species is made based on the planned functionality of the fence and decorative considerations.

The most popular raw material for the construction of protective structures is from coniferous trees (pine, spruce, cedar). Cedar has high strength, expressive texture, but it belongs to rare, and therefore expensive materials.

Pine and spruce are the most popular building materials. Their structure is saturated with resins that successfully resist the spread of rot and fungus. The moisture index of pine and spruce blanks is 15-20%, which corresponds optimal value exploitation of materials in the open air. The density of spruce is lower than that of pine, therefore it is easier to process, but the knotty is higher, which indicates an increased percentage of waste. Both breeds are prone to cracking.

Less durable, but more beautiful, especially after proper processing, are considered hardwoods- ash, beech, oak, birch, aspen, alder, mulberry, acacia, Siberian larch. The strongest fences are obtained from Siberian larch. Despite the fact that the main enemy of most tree species is moisture, when in contact with water, this material becomes even more solid. But birch has the lowest density, which means that the service life of products made from it is shorter. Oak wooden fences for a private house are a rarity, since the raw materials are not cheap. Nevertheless, oak is more often used in interior decoration.

The vulnerability of wood is associated with fluctuations in humidity: when it is high, it swells and is affected by mold, when it is low, it dries and cracks. To extend the life of the fence, the wood must be pre-treated with an antiseptic composition, which will increase its resistance to moisture, mold, and impregnation with a UV hardener - to protect against ultraviolet radiation.

Fence construction technology

Wooden fences can be built on a foundation base or without it. In the first case, a trench breaks out along the entire perimeter and a tape, that is, a solid foundation, is poured. The second option involves digging holes for support poles at their installation sites. Such local holes are also concreted or filled.

There are technologies for building a fence with or without a base. The base, as a rule, repeats the material of the pillars and is made of brick, stone or concrete.

Consider the procedure for building a simple fence from wooden picket fence on a local basis.

Installation of supports and assembly of the frame

The universal algorithm for erecting any fence is as follows.

Installation of supports, if necessary - pouring the foundation.
Lag installation.
Sheathing fastening.

Start over. Holes with a diameter of 40-50 cm and a depth of 100-120 cm are drilled or dug at the installation sites of the marking pegs. A sand cushion is laid and compacted on the bottom, the layer thickness of which should be 10-15 cm.

A support post is installed exactly in the center of the hole. If the backfill option is selected, then the pit is filled with a mixture of crushed stone and sand and compacted; if concreting, then poured cement mortar. The verticality of the support is strictly controlled using a plumb line or other devices.

Logs are easiest to mount on special brackets that you can make yourself or purchase at the store. If metal supports are used, then the fastening of the cross members is best done by welding. Depending on the height of the fence and the massiveness of the sheathing, the optimal number of veins is selected (usually 2 or 3). The frame is ready.

Final assembly and installation of wooden fences

At this stage, the frame is sheathed with pickets, boards, logs or other elements. They are attached to the lags with screws, bolts or nails. Depending on the approved design, the planks are installed close to each other or with a predetermined spacing. In order not to deviate from the horizontal, nails are hammered into the upper ends of the pillars, and twine is pulled between them.

Another option for mounting fence boards is to mount them on logs before installing the latter on poles. This method makes it easier to control the level of the lamellas and maintain an equal distance between them. In addition, stress is removed from the weight of the boards on the crossbars, which provokes their deflection.

Protection and finishing: how to cover

To protect the fence from the aggressive influence of natural phenomena, before painting, it is recommended to prime the surface, treat it with an impregnation, an antiseptic, cover it with protection products (Swedish paint, hot drying oil, yacht varnish) and moisture-resistant varnish. Keep in mind that some of the listed chemicals can distort the natural color of the wood.

A wide range of paints is offered in building hypermarkets. When choosing, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the desired shade, but also to the type of binder. So, oil paints are unlikely to last longer than three years, enamel ones are designed for a ten-year period. The most stable are water-dispersion dyes; they do not need to be updated for at least 20 years. Silicate and silicone compounds also proved to be excellent.

wooden fence color design

The most popular shade of a wooden fence is natural. Nothing compares to the natural beauty of wood. Special varnishes and colorless paints can emphasize and enhance the natural pattern.

An interesting effect can be achieved by pre-firing the boards.

Often the fence sheathing is painted in a shade that echoes colors, in which the house or parts of it are decorated, for example, balcony railings, terrace railings, columns, and so on.

Fence from unedged boards, photo.

Everyone needs a fence. For some, it's just to hide from prying eyes. Someone wants to emphasize their status with a fence. Others want to do something original with their own hands. It is to the third category that the user of our site with the nickname Dembelek2007, decided independently horizontal from unedged boards. We will tell about his practical experience, as well as about all the stages of this construction in this material.

How it all began

The history of this construction began with the purchase of the site. One of the requirements that guided the forum member when choosing “his own land” was that there should be a forest, a river and wildlife nearby.

The result of an active search was the purchase of a plot next to a pond and forest. It was then that Dembelek2007 the idea arose that the fence should be in harmony with the surrounding landscape as much as possible. While in the head "cooked" various options arranging the structure, the forum member decided not to waste time and started clearing the site.

Dembelek2007 FOUMHOUSE User

I mowed all the grass, cleared the area of debris and anthills. I leveled a small hill with a tractor along the border with the road.

Having thus prepared a "bridgehead" for future work, the forum member came to grips with the choice suitable type fence.

Dembelek2007

My site, as they say, “went into winter”, and I had time to properly prepare for construction. I reviewed a lot of photos with original fences collected on our website. Most of all, I liked the fence made of unedged boards, built by a member of our forum - Spartak. The design is working and quite budget. Taking this fence as a basis, I decided to repeat it, making some changes and improvements.

It is not surprising that the forum member settled on this design. Just look at the photo, which shows the fence Spartacus to understand what is the reason for the popularity of unedged boards.

In addition to the fence canvas, you can finish the facade of the house with an unedged board.

It is easier and faster to make a fence from a profiled sheet than from a tree, but it is the manifested texture of the wood that gives the fence a spectacular appearance.

Stages of building a fence from unedged boards

1. Calculation of the quantity and purchase of the necessary materials

The length of the perimeter to be fenced is 120 meters. Based on this, the following materials were purchased:

Edged board, which was subsequently treated with an antiseptic - 150x25 mm - 2 cubic meters;
An unedged board went to the canvas (such a board was obtained as a result of the initial sawing of a tree trunk, hence the uneven raw edges with bark), from 20 to 35 cm wide and 2.5 cm thick - 6 cubic meters;
For the pillars, a square pipe 6x4 cm was purchased;
The pillars of the entrance group carry the maximum load, holding the gate and the gate. Therefore, a profile pipe 6x6 cm is used here, with a wall thickness of 2 mm, and round pipe diameter 85 mm, wall thickness - 4.5 mm;
The gate material is a square pipe 4x4 cm and a corner 45x45 mm.

The forum member also decided to sheathe the self-made gates and the gate with a board, and later overlay the pillars of the entrance area with hyper-pressed brick with a “wild stone” texture.

Also for the construction required:

crushed stone;
sand;
cement.

2 . Preparatory stage

Another important nuance that you need to pay attention to - when leveling the column - the column should not delay / protrude to the side of the lace. Otherwise, due to the summation of errors, at large lengths, the geometry of one row of pillars can “run away”. Therefore, all poles should recede from the marking cord by about 3-5 mm.

During the installation of the fence, the forum member, in order to simplify his task when digging holes, came up with a template. The device is done like this - a wooden square is nailed to the bar, the sides of the square are equal to the width of the shovel bayonet. The length of the bar is chosen in such a way that its length, plus the distance to the geometric center of the square, is equal to the distance between the posts.

The template is used as follows: the end of the bar rests against the already installed pole, we put the opposite end on the ground and align it along the axis of the fence with a plumb line released from the tensioned cord along the length axis of one of the sides of the fence. Next, we excavate the soil from the inside of the square with a shovel, to a depth of 25-30 cm, then we begin to drill a hole with a garden drill.

The height of the above-ground part of the fence is 2 m, the length of the vertical board that covers the metal pole is 1.9 m.

Horizontal boards are attached to vertical boards from the inside with self-tapping screws. When choosing this method of fastening, special attention should be paid to the corners. How this knot is made can be clearly seen in this photo.

After installing the fence canvas, we proceed to the arrangement of the entrance group. Because when opening and closing the gate and swing gate the pillars carry an increased load; a strip foundation is made under them as a base.

Its design is shown in this drawing.

Trench dimensions:

length - 5.4 m;
width - 0.4 m;
depth - 0.4 m.

Before pouring concrete, the bottom of the trench is lined with geotextile, then crushed stone is covered with a layer of 10 cm.

After ramming the crushed stone, a plastic film is laid on top of it and a reinforcing cage is knitted.

When arranging the site, the fence can be erected at the very beginning or last, but it must be by all means. In the countryside, where nature is rampant and houses are sometimes not visible due to foliage, the most acceptable option is.

Several are common:

. Consists of vertical strips nailed at intervals to two horizontal veins. It does not protect the territory from the views of passers-by, but it is well ventilated;
solid fence. Boards or slats are nailed close. The site becomes visually inaccessible from the street. But the fence is not blown through and therefore has a large windage (in open areas, reinforcement of supports is required). It looks too simple, because it will require the use of decorative details;
fence-louver. Narrow boards are packed horizontally and overlapped, so that in the end the design resembles a mechanical folding curtain. Looks more attractive due to the texture;
"chess". Double picket fence: from the side of the courtyard, planks are nailed to the veins, blocking the gaps between the planks on the street side. It costs more than the classic. It does not allow you to observe what is happening on the territory from the street, it is blown by the wind. Looks interesting due to the volume;
stockade. Rarely used. Boards or thin trunks are dug into the ground close to each other. This fence looks stylish, reminiscent of the wall of an old fort. Disadvantages: high material consumption even in comparison with a solid fence, and fragility - wood in the ground quickly deteriorates;
. Thin boards (flexibility required) are braided around three racks in turn: one bypasses the middle rack in front, and the extreme ones in the back; the next one is the opposite. The braided fence looks quite interesting, voluminous. A variant is also used with a vertical arrangement of boards braiding horizontal veins. Such fences exceed human growth in height and completely hide what is happening behind the fence from those walking along the street;
wattle fence. Braided variant with a pronounced folklore appearance. It is used in areas decorated in the old style. rustic style. Poles are used as racks; instead of boards, they are braided with willow rods. A polymer vine is produced that imitates natural, but significantly exceeds it in durability;
"ranch". Horizontal boards or poles are attached to the rack, so that the attachment point is in the middle of their length.

Of all the varieties, the picket fence is the most popular.

Essential elements

The fence consists of the following elements:

. They dig into the ground and serve as a support for the sections. They are made of wooden beams, steel pipes, bricks or cinder blocks. For fixing sections of piece building material, embedded parts are embedded in the masonry. build with a section of 1.5x1.5 bricks. A “window” remains inside - a pipe (reinforcement) is installed in it. From above, the stone pillar is protected from precipitation with a special concrete or tin head;
frame. A supporting base attached to the uprights and used in turn to fix the web. In the fence, the role of the frame is played by two horizontal veins;
canvas. Attaches to the frame.

Sometimes a shallow strip foundation is laid - if the sections are large and massive.

Fence boards for construction

When using such lumber:

. “Unedged” means with a raw end - the bark remains on it. Such a board is cheaper than a cut one, therefore it is also often used in the construction of fences. Pine lumber (shalevka) is the most accessible;
edged board. More expensive material with machined ends. In the construction of wooden fences, it is most often used;
terrace board. Expensive, but extremely strong and durable material. This is not wood in its pure form, but a wood-polymer composite. Service life reaches 50 years. At the production stage, a pigment is introduced, therefore dyeing terrace board no need;
. This is the cheapest material, practically waste. It is a rounded sidewall of the trunk, remaining after the dissolution of the latter on the boards.

A presentable look to the croaker is given by processing:

grinding;
firing (toning);
applying varnish.

The slab stuffed with an overlap looks textured.

Pine croaker

Boards differ in the type of cut into two types:

radial cut. It is formed from the central part of the trunk when the saw passes almost along the radius of its cross section. This is the highest quality wood and, due to the high cost, it is not advisable to buy it for a fence device;
tangential sawing. More accessible wood from the side of the slab.

Usually, boards with a thickness of 25 mm are used for the manufacture of a fence. For a vertical braid with a height of 2 m, thinner material will be required - 16 mm thick with a width of 8 cm.

Installation

The construction of the fence is carried out in the following order:

the territory is cleared of debris and large vegetation;
if necessary, trim, cutting off the bumps and falling asleep cavities;
set pegs at the corners of the plot;
they stretch a line between them;
measure the dimensions of the sides with a tape measure and divide them into an equal number of sections, so that the length of the latter is 2-2.5 m. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the width of the gate and gate;
having calculated the length of the section, pegs are placed with such a step along the cord - they indicate the position of the intermediate racks;
in place of the pegs, recesses are made for the racks. The easiest way is to use a garden drill.

For the construction of a conventional picket fence, you will need:

racks: timber with a section of 100x100 mm. If the racks are made of a steel profile pipe, its minimum cross section is 40x40x2 mm. Brackets from a corner with holes for attaching sections are welded to metal racks;
veins: with a step of racks of 2 m, boards with a section of at least 30x50 mm are used;
boards or slats for canvas.

Before proceeding directly to the installation, lumber is treated to make it resistant to decay.

Preparation of boards for installation

To reduce the consumption of impregnation to a minimum, the boards are planed. The bark is pre-cut from the unedged one, the ends are processed.

The boards are dissolved into planks if it is supposed to build a picket fence, and then the upper end of each of them is cut off with a “house”. Such a profile will ensure the flow of water.

Lumber is impregnated with an antiseptic or hot drying oil and then painted or varnished in two layers. It is used if the wood is of high quality, without knots and other defects. Yachting differs in the greatest firmness.

If it is decided to make the racks from a bar, the buried part is fired and then coated with bitumen and wrapped with roofing material. To extend the life of wood, a concrete columnar foundation is poured with a metal glass embedded in it. A wooden rack is inserted into the latter.

Paint Tikkurila Öliypohjainen punamaali

Instead of purchased paint, you can use home-made - the so-called Swedish. Its characteristics are similar to Tikkurila Öliypohjainen punamaali water-based paint with the addition of linseed oil but will be much cheaper.

Ingredients:

natural drying oil: 107 g;
rye flour: 193 g;
iron vitriol (biosecurity): 87 g;
minium iron (gives color): 87 g;
table salt: 87 g;
water: 1.5 l.

With the specified number of components, the paint is enough for 7 square meters. m of surface.

Production order:

paste is boiled from rye flour in 1 liter of water. Constant stirring is required so that there are no lumps;
while continuing to stir, gradually add salt and iron sulfate to the paste;
having completely dissolved these ingredients, add iron minium and again mix the composition until homogeneous;
lobavyut drying oil;
gradually add the remaining water;
and for 2-3 hours, simmer the mixture over low heat. This gives the paint stability - it is not washed off by rain.

Apply the paint in a warm form on unplaned boards. Before complete drying (it will take 4-5 hours), it is undesirable to hit direct sun rays. Therefore, they work in the evening or with thick clouds.

Do-it-yourself installation

in the following order:

a sand and gravel cushion is poured at the bottom of the recesses: first 10 cm of sand, then a layer of gravel of the same thickness, everything is carefully rammed (it is recommended to moisten);
put corner posts in the recesses. With the help of a plumb line, they are brought to a vertical position and temporarily fixed with bars or brick fragments;
pull a string between the tops of the racks and, having moved a certain distance, visually compare its position with horizontal lines in buildings. If the towline is not parallel to them, crushed stone and sand are added under the lower rack until the cord is in a horizontal position;
racks are concreted or a mixture of soil and sand is poured into the recesses, carefully ramming it;
focusing on a stretched line, install intermediate racks, not forgetting to control their verticality with a plumb line;
fence sections are assembled on a flat area: two veins are laid in parallel, so that the distance between them corresponds to the distance between the brackets on the racks, and the pickets are nailed. The position of the shtaketin relative to the veins is controlled by a building square;
fasten the sections with bolts to the brackets on the racks.

For greater accuracy, you can first attach the veins to the uprights, and then to them with picket screws, controlling their position with a plumb line. At the end of the installation, the wooden elements are tinted in those places where the paint was knocked down.