How to build a country house with your own hands and inexpensively furnish it. Do-it-yourself house made of timber: how to build a house with step-by-step instructions How to build a cottage from timber

Of course, it is better to build correctly right away than to redo it later. Well, if you do do any modifications, then do it thoughtfully so as not to turn the reconstruction into an endless process.

We first evaluate any structure by its appearance. And as often happens (this is especially true for old-built country houses): the structure seems to be of good quality, but it looks unsightly. So what - break everything down and build again? Or should I try something less expensive? For example, apply techniques that allow you to create the optical effect of changing the size of an object in width and height, combining this with cosmetic finishing of the facade and minor design modifications ( rice. 1).

Rice. 1. A small modification to the house allows you to change the perception of the size of the object in width and height.

This can be done by different orientations of the architectural elements of the building in the vertical and horizontal directions. Let’s say we need to “stretch” the roof in width, and “raise” the frame upward. To do this, we will “extend” the existing window in both directions (at the same time it will be lighter in the attic) and install a gable ebb (the protection of the facade from rain will improve). You can install a ridge ebb, which is also structurally justified. A attic window will improve the ventilation conditions of the attic and, to some extent, its lighting.

Thus, all these decorative innovations not only improve the appearance of the building, but also turn out to be functionally useful. On the contrary, the main facade of the log house should be made visually higher. The simplest solution is not to trim the corners with boards, but to paint them in lighter colors. The actual height of the log house can also be disguised by planting trees and shrubs, as well as installing a fence of appropriate height.
There are many ways to influence the appearance of a building in the arsenal of designers and architects. You need to select the most effective and simple ones.

However, our main goal is to reduce construction errors to a minimum. Can this be achieved? Even if we have a whole statistical “bank” of errors, we will not be able to use this information effectively without an integrated approach. It is necessary to systematize errors, and on the basis of this, develop rules that should be followed during the construction process. In other words, it is necessary to regulate the requirements for each part of the building under construction. Doing them will prevent gross mistakes and will help you look “in the right place.” A list of such requirements can be formed not only based on building codes, but also on the basis of survey results, common sense considerations, taking into account the materials and tools used.

However, requirements are only half the battle. Another critical component of success is the control system. After all, country houses are often built non-professional builders. It is for them that they need a systematic approach that will allow them to build with high quality, quickly and without extra costs.

An example would be the construction of a country house from timber - the most common and relatively inexpensive material.

Foundation

The construction of any house begins with the foundation. The most common are shallow strip reinforced concrete foundations. They are simple and technologically advanced to manufacture, reliable, well protect the underground from cold, snow and wind, and are quite versatile for almost any type of soil.

In cross section, the foundation consists of underground and above-ground parts, which are poured with concrete separately. For example, when building on clay soils (in the Moscow region their area is about 70%), concrete for the base of the foundation is poured directly into a trench dug in the ground, and then the formwork panels are installed and the base is poured.

The arrangement of the foundation begins with its marking. Many developers at this stage “fence the garden”, believing that they cannot do without cast-offs. Of course, cast-offs are necessary when constructing large construction projects. However, when we are talking about a rectangle with dimensions of 6 × 9 m, do we really not mark it out more in a simple way? And horizontal marks can be easily obtained using a hydraulic level without a level: after all, the area is insignificant. Casting means extra labor costs, additional costs of lumber, and subsequently - inconvenience and interference during the installation of formwork panels, as well as difficulties in maneuvering concrete trucks.

Rice. 2. Marking the foundation

Let's consider the simplest technology for marking a strip foundation (Fig. 2). First, the basic position of the main angle is determined in the right place - in relation to the road, terrain, plan, etc. A peg is driven in at this place.

Then, using a triangle, a right angle is set from this point. Now, having the given dimensions of the sides of the foundation, it is not difficult to determine the position of all the corners. The accuracy of the work is checked by comparing the diagonals of the rectangle.

Pegs are driven in at the marked points. Then, according to the given width of the foundation strip, an internal rectangle is built and the pegs are driven in again. The position of the foundation for the veranda is also determined. Pegs are also driven in here. Thus, having driven in only 12 pegs, the work of marking the foundation can be considered completed.

After installing the pegs, an incision is made and the turf is removed along the contour of the foundation. To do this, take a board with a cross-section of 50x150 mm, first apply it to the outer pegs and, moving along the board, cut the turf with a shovel. Then the board is placed against the inner pegs and the turf is cut again.

They act similarly along the entire contour of the future building. All that remains is to remove the trimmed turf, after which the laying out of the foundation can be considered completely completed.

Such simplified markings make it possible to obtain the outline of the trench without precise millimeter measurements, the need for which may arise at subsequent stages of construction. After this, the excavation of the trench begins.

Some critics of strip foundations consider their large volume to be their main disadvantage earthworks. However, this is not quite true. My colleagues and I have never used an excavator to remove soil. This is expensive, and the trench turns out to be extremely sloppy, which requires subsequent manual modification. In addition, the consumption of concrete increases. But for a house with dimensions of 6x9 m we need to select only about 9 m3 of soil. A team of four people will do this (including markings and smoke breaks) in just half a day. I dare to say that drilling two or three dozen holes in clay for a columnar foundation, and even with a widening, is much more difficult. When removing soil from a trench for a strip foundation, vertical markings are simultaneously made: the depth of the trench and the height of the panels are determined. Measurements are made using stakes and a hydraulic level (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Vertical marking of the trench

A sand cushion is poured into the bottom of the dug trench in layers of 10-15 cm and compacted. Then the reinforcement is installed and concrete pouring begins.

There is no point in preparing concrete yourself. A concrete truck will deliver and pour the finished mixture into the trench. However, it will be necessary to make room for equipment to approach the trench in at least 2-3 places. If you pour it at one point, then the concrete will have to be pushed far with shovels, and the coarse aggregate (crushed stone) will settle in one place. Only the liquid part of the solution will reach remote parts of the trench.

After pouring concrete into the trench, you can start preparing reinforcement and making formwork panels. In the meantime, while the base concrete has not yet hardened, you need to insert pins into it every 1-1.5 m to connect the base of the foundation with the base. Reinforcing bars ø14-16 mm and 50 cm long are buried 30 cm into the concrete of the base.

In order for the foundation to work reliably, it must meet the following requirements:
- the foundation strip must have sufficient strength and stability;
- the foundation must provide the necessary underground ventilation;
- the surface of the base bed must be straight and located strictly in a horizontal plane;
- the walls and corners of the plinth must be strictly vertical;

The surface of the walls should not have peeling, chips, empty spaces, sinkholes, or open areas with reinforcement;
- the height of the base must be at least 50 cm.
All further actions should be aimed at meeting these requirements, and only then the list of errors when laying the foundation can be reduced or eliminated altogether.

To fill the base, you need to make and install shields. In the case under consideration, 42 m2 of external formwork panels and 30 m2 of internal panels will be required. External panels are subject to more stringent requirements, since they form the front part of the foundation. For them, it is advisable to use boards with a section of 50×150 mm, which were purchased for rafters. After dismantling the formwork panels, they are used for their intended purpose.

It makes sense to make internal panels (as experience suggests) from boards with a cross-section of 25×150 mm, which were purchased for sheathing. However, to ensure the strength of the formwork, they need to be knocked down in 2 layers.

Rice. 4. Manufacturing of formwork panels

In addition to the economical production of formwork panels, it is advisable to use a simplified scheme for installing and fastening formwork panels, which my colleagues and I have been using for quite a long time. Its essence is as follows. First, the outer panels are assembled (4 boards per panel). To have fewer gaps between the boards, you can use a simple method of joining the boards together using shovels (Fig. 4). Shield ties made of bars with a cross-section of 50×50 mm and a length of 80 cm are laid out on the ground. Boards with a cross-section of 50×150 mm are laid on them. The result is a shield 60 cm wide, which allows you to get a plinth of the desired height. The boards are pressed together with shovels and nailed to the ties. The boards are not nailed together at the ends of the shields. Locks will be placed there, which are nailed into place when installing the shields. The ends of the ties protruding at the top are used to place twisted wires.

Internal contour panels are made in the same way, but they are assembled from boards with a cross-section of 25×150 mm in two rows with a slight offset. Here, for assembly, instead of nails, it is advisable to use self-tapping screws. Before installation, finished panels are wrapped in roofing felt, since glassine and film tear when pouring concrete, forming unnecessary patterns on the surface of the concrete.

The main thing when assembling formwork- ensure its stable position at the time of pouring concrete. Insecurely fastened panels at the time of pouring can cause a lot of trouble. To prevent them from tipping over, various braces, stakes and stops are often used. As a result, material is wasted, work takes a lot of time, and the reliability of formwork installation leaves much to be desired. The most important thing is that the fastening elements take up a lot of space on both sides of the base, which interferes with work and complicates the movement of concrete trucks.

There is an alternative to such an irrational method of attaching formwork. To install and fasten the panels, reinforcing pins are used, which are inserted into the base of the foundation along its central axis. The formwork panels are secured to the pins with wire ties. As a result, the panels will be securely tied to the base of the foundation and firmly attached to it without external structures interfering with the work. The pins are installed at the corners of the foundation at the junction with the lintels, and in the spaces between them they are placed in increments of 1.0-1.5 m.

Let's look at the technology for installing panels with reinforcing pins in more detail.(Fig. 5). First, the inner contour of the shields is installed. It is placed taking into account the width of the base. Since the base of the foundation is slightly wider than the base (40 cm versus 25-30 cm), there is some space for arranging the panels. The panels are connected at the corners using locks and temporarily secured with scraps of lumber. Correct installation is checked by comparing the diagonals. The temporarily fastened inner formwork box serves as the basis for installing the outer contour.

Rice. 5 Formwork installation diagram

Then they act in this order. Spacers are placed on each pin, the position of the pins is marked on them (since you cannot place them exactly in the center), nails are hammered into the spacers according to the marks and they are bent around the pins. After this, wire is wound around the pins.

External shields are placed close to the spacers, and the ends of the wire are wound around the fastening nails (they are not bent yet). Both walls of the formwork are temporarily fixed, and 2-4 reinforcement rods ø12-16 mm are placed on the spacers.

The most important point is the formation of products. These structural elements determine the ventilation conditions for the underground. They are often formed using scraps of asbestos-cement pipes or wooden boxes are knocked together. The disadvantage of these methods is that if the shield is slightly deflected, a gap is formed between it and the liner, into which the concrete mixture immediately flows. As a result, work often goes down the drain.

We do things differently in our practice. We take a piece of timber with a cross-section of 150×150 mm or a piece of round timber ø130…150 mm, wrap it in 2-3 layers of roofing material and insert it between the panels. To make it easier to push out the insert and allow water to drain from the vent to the outside, we make the inner part of the insert smaller in cross-section. I note that in the future these plugs can be used to protect air vents in the winter.

To improve ventilation conditions, vents on opposite walls of the base must be placed co-ordinated. And to ensure that rodents are not interested in your underground, it is advisable to place a mesh with bent edges between the liner and the internal shield. After pouring the concrete, the underground will be reliably protected.

After installing the liners between the panels, the upper spacers should be inserted and secured with nails, which (together with the lower ones) determine the width of the base. The rods of the upper reinforcement belt of the plinth are also placed on these bars, which are secured with nails against lateral displacement at the time of concrete pouring. All that remains is to bend upward the nails with the wire wound on them, and the panels will be securely pulled to the reinforcing pins.

Vertical reinforcement elements may not be installed given the dimensions of the structure and the loading conditions of the foundation.

Now you need to set the height of pouring concrete into the form. To do this, set the filling height at the lowest point of the base. From this point, using a hydraulic level, other points are “beat off” along the entire contour of the foundation. Then nails are driven through the shields every 1.0-1.5 m, along the protruding ends of which the top of the base is rubbed.

After marking the concrete pouring level and installing the top twists, you should check everything thoroughly again (compare the diagonals, make sure the panels are installed vertically).

For rigidity, the inner and outer contours of the shields near the corners need to be tightened with overlays (Fig. 6). And if there are cracks at the bottom of the shields, they should be filled with sand.

Rice. 6. Formwork box

Unfortunately, not all concrete trucks unload concrete with pumps. Therefore, you should be well prepared for receiving concrete - clear the entrances and mixer stops for unloading. It may be necessary to make receiving trays. You can also make your own concrete.

Concrete must be poured in layers, carefully monitoring the position of the boards. Compaction of concrete is done with the help of vibrators, but you can do without them. Good results are also obtained by simply tapping the shields with the butt of an ax - then the surface of the base will be free of holes and flaws. But in the corners, to prevent the formation of chipped formations, the mass of concrete must be pierced with a piece of reinforcement (Fig. 7).

Rice. 7. Compacting concrete in corners

I note that with the traditional (using stakes and spacers) system of installing panels at the time of pouring concrete, troubles often arise. For example, the top or bottom of the shield may be partially deflected. This process can be stopped with various supports, but after the concrete hardens, swellings (“belly”) may form in this place, which will spoil appearance foundation. It's even worse when the concrete ends up on the ground.

If a deviation of the shield is detected, the supply of concrete should be immediately stopped and the solution should be thrown away from the emergency area with shovels. At this time, other craftsmen hammer in the stakes. Then a brace is inserted, one end is rested against the peg, and the other, together with the wedge, is brought under the shield (Fig. 8). The bottom of the shield is also fixed with an emphasis on the stake. After this, carefully tapping the wedge, raise the shield slightly. This operation is repeated several times until the formwork is completely restored.

Rice. 8. Straightening the formwork

If the bottom of the shield has come off, then they also drive a stake into the ground and install a spacer between it and the shield. After this, using the butt of an ax or a sledgehammer, the spacer is gradually driven into place and the “belly” is eliminated.

Concrete is a plastic material, and it is precisely this property that is used to restore formwork. However, this property of concrete must be taken into account. When the solution vibrates, significant expansion forces arise, and the mixer feeds concrete intensively. In this regard, I would like to draw the attention of readers to typical mistake when attaching shields, when the twisted wire is hooked to the boards, and not to the cross-bars (Fig. 9). As a result, the boards move away from the bars and the shield deviates from the vertical.

Rice. 9. Shields cannot be mounted this way

When installing formwork using the method proposed above, some difficulties may arise. For example, when the pins and crossbar ties of the shields do not match (see Fig. 5). And this is natural, since it can be difficult to combine them. If the difference is large, then it is better to install additional ties. This means that you need to have a supply of the necessary material on hand, just in case.

The poured concrete is protected from cracking with sawdust, roofing felt or film and moistened with water. After the concrete has hardened, dismantling the formwork begins. There are different opinions on this issue. Some people think that this should be done after 2 weeks, others are convinced that the form cannot be disassembled until the concrete has gained full strength.

In my opinion, there is no need for a long curing period for concrete. It can be very difficult to tear off the boards (many of them split), and minor irregularities cannot be corrected. You can disassemble the formwork already on the third day. By this time, the concrete will have already gained 25% strength, and some irregularities will not be difficult to remove mechanically. At this time it is also convenient to repair various chips and sinks.

The finished foundation (Fig. 10) should be carefully inspected and the horizontality of the upper cut (viewpoint /) and the flatness of the plinth walls (viewpoint II) should be checked. If an instrumental control method is necessary, a tape measure, hydraulic level, plumb line, etc. are used.

Rice. 10. Foundation control

Preparation for installation of timber frame

Any construction project as a whole and each of its parts separately (foundation, walls, floors, roof) can be characterized using concepts such as verticality, perpendicularity, parallelism, flatness and straightness.

Most of these parameters are regulated by building codes and regulations. Unfortunately, amateur developers are not always guided by them, and sometimes are not even aware of the existence of relevant standards. However, this does not reduce the importance of the design requirements that are enshrined in these regulatory documents. Even for the reader uninitiated in the intricacies of construction, it is obvious what, for example, non-parallel walls or their different heights can lead to. Today we will talk about walls.

Natural moisture timber

More often country houses erected from timber with natural moisture. This material, which is much cheaper than profiled or laminated veneer lumber, allows you to build a warm and reliable house.

However, without knowledge of the basic rules for working with natural moisture timber, success in construction cannot be achieved.

The purchased timber should not be dried. It is necessary to build walls from it as quickly as possible, since when drying the material is greatly deformed: it bends, takes on a rhombic shape, or even worse - it is twisted by a “propeller”.

Some developers prefer to plan the timber, believing that this will allow them to avoid sheathing the walls later. Others believe that it is necessary to sheathe and insulate walls only on one side and plan only one edge of the timber. In my opinion, it is still better to sheathe the walls on both sides. In this case, there is no need to plan the timber and chamfer its edges.

However, if you decide to plan the timber, consider the following. The edge of a beam with a cross-section of 150×150 mm can be planed in 2 passes, since the working width of planes is limited. To ensure that there are no steps on the planed surface, the plane is first planed along the beam, and the second pass is made, holding the tool at an angle a = 25°-45° to the longitudinal axis ( rice, 11).

Rice. 11. Planing the edges of the timber. To ensure that there are no steps on the planed surface, the planer is first used to plan along the beam, and the second pass is made at an angle to the longitudinal axis.

The beams laid in the walls dry out. As a result, deep cracks are formed into which water gets in, which does not bode well for the structure. The most important thing is that as the beams dry out, they decrease in size. This property of wood must be seriously taken into account when constructing timber houses - shrinkage reaches 3-10% of the height of the walls.

Wall requirements. Walls are a fundamental part of the structure, which determines the living conditions in the house and its architectural appearance as a whole. In accordance with this, the following basic requirements can be presented to the walls.

1. The main overall dimensions of the walls must have an optimal ratio.
2. The walls must be straight, and the joints between them (corners) must be strictly vertical.
3. Opposite walls must have the same dimensions throughout their entire height.
4. The plane of the upper frame of the building must be strictly horizontal.

Of course, this is far from a complete list of requirements for walls in general and for timber frames in particular. However, in amateur construction, monitoring only these parameters gives good results.

Bottom trim and overlap

The lower trim should be reliably waterproofed from the foundation. Ruberoid is not the best choice for this. Over time, it dries out, the bitumen impregnation evaporates and the wood becomes practically defenseless. The following method of waterproofing is more reliable. The surface of the base is coated bitumen mastic, and a layer of waterproofing is placed on it, which, thanks to the coating, is connected to concrete base no gaps. The beams of the lower trim are laid on this bedding, which are pre-treated protective compounds (rice. 12).

Rice. 12. Installation of the bottom trim and ceiling

Biosecurity wooden structures - the most important construction operation. And here everything needs to be done right away to ensure the durability of the building. It is no secret that any antiseptics evaporate after a few years. Getting to the structural elements in order to reprocess them is difficult, if not impossible. In this regard, it is advisable to first saturate the material with an adhesive agent, and to prevent it from evaporating, cover the outside of the beam with bitumen mastic. The antiseptic penetrates deep into the wood, and the mastic protects it from evaporation. Floor beams are processed similarly.

After checking the diagonals, the laid lower trim is connected with staples ( see Fig. 12, Node B), and the position assembled structure marked on the waterproofing of the base. This is necessary to control the position of the frame on the foundation. For reliability, the harness can be attached to the base with crutches or long nails through plugs. There must be at least two such fastenings on one side. After installing the lower trim, the ceiling is installed. In construction practice, the following two structural schemes are most often used, one of which is the “beam-clag” scheme. In this option, beams are first laid, and logs are installed across them. The latter are placed more often than beams. Placed on edge, boards together with beams form a rigid structure capable of bearing specified loads. It is advisable to use this scheme if thin tongue-and-groove boards are intended to be used for the floor. With the “beams + joists” scheme it is easier to solve issues effective insulation floor, however, the consumption of lumber with this type of flooring increases.

It should be noted that in dacha construction, a floor plan consisting only of beams is much more often used, on which floor boards are laid. In this case, beams with a cross section of 100×200 mm are used as beams. Together with the cranial bars, such beams have sufficient load-bearing capacity and, just as importantly, due to their height, they also make it possible to effectively insulate the floor. When using thick floorboards, such beams can be spaced in increments of up to 1 m.

The beams should be laid so that there is a ventilation gap (2 cm) between their ends and the framing. This is done using gaskets, which are removed after fastening with staples (see Fig. 12, node B). The ends of the beams must be carefully treated with an antiseptic.

The technology for installing beams is simple. First, the outer beams are mounted and aligned in a horizontal plane. After this, a board is placed on edge between them and intermediate beams are installed on it. The work is usually monitored visually, and if necessary, a level is used. Technological flooring is laid on the beams.

Labour Organization

You need to prepare for assembling the box, since both the quality of construction and its pace depend on the organization of work. To ensure the work progresses, the beams are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5 m from the building on one or, better yet, both sides (Fig. 13). Inch boards are laid between the rows of beams. To do this, it is advisable to use material intended for subfloors.

Rice. 13. Organization of the workplace

Between the stack and the log house, work stations are equipped for marking the beams and cutting them. You can do it like this. At the required height (depending on the height of the worker), support boards are inserted between the rows of beams. The timber is carefully laid on them and marked using a template. Then the workpiece is transferred to the cutting site, the necessary operations are performed, after which, using a rope, the workpiece is lifted along the slopes onto the walls and laid.

To facilitate the ascent to the slopes, it is advisable to nail wedge-shaped stops. They will prevent the beam from sliding down uncontrollably, which can pose a serious danger to workers on the construction site. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to get by with little force. Even one person can lift the load if necessary, securing it with stops at intermediate points.

Marking the bars

This stage of work is very important, since the quality of further construction depends on the correct marking. Traditionally, marking is done using a tape measure. Overall dimensions are taken directly from the walls, and then grooves, tenons and other profiles are marked on the ground using a square.

For example, in the case under consideration, each crown consists of 7 beams from 3 to 6 m long. To assemble the box, hundreds of measurements must be taken. You can make your work easier and increase its accuracy if you use templates instead of measurements. Marking in this case is reduced to simply tracing the contours of the templates with a marker, which allows not only to reduce labor costs, but also to minimize measurement errors. When using templates, the blanks have identical dimensions, which ultimately makes it possible to achieve high-quality assembly of the timber box.

Note that if you use traditional templates (one for two mirror-like workpieces), then for the construction of walls you will need 7 marking devices, which will inevitably clutter up the workspace (Fig. 14). This may be why many builders don’t like templates, despite the obvious advantages of using them. This means that you need to make sure that there are not too many marking devices.

Rice. 14. Schemes for cutting beams: 1.1′ - main beam of the longitudinal wall (right and left); 2.2′ - additional beams of the longitudinal wall (right and left extensions); 3 - marking holes; 4 - marks on the edges; 5 - parts of the workpiece to be removed; 6 - transverse wall template; 7 - partition beam; 8 - transverse wall beam; 9 - marking holes.

Rice. 5. Scheme for developing templates for longitudinal walls: 1 - main beam; 2 - additional beam; 3 1 partition; 4 - corner grooves; 5 - groove for the partition beam; 6 - longitudinal wall template; 7 - extras; a,d - cuts on the edges; b, c - marking holes.

Let's look at the principles of template development (Fig. 15). So, let’s say we have to assemble a lumber box with dimensions of 6x9 m. If we have standard lumber (6 m), this can be done, at first glance, without unnecessary waste. However, it is not. It is possible to assemble a crown 9 m long without loss of lumber only if you join pieces 6 m long and 3 m long end-to-end (this masonry is often called “brick”). However, this connection is a gross construction mistake, since such a joint turns into a “cold bridge”.

The correct connection of “half-tree” beams with an overlap of 15...20 cm. But then the total length of the spliced ​​parts will not be 9 m, but 8.8 m. The joints are arranged in a checkerboard pattern, which should be taken into account when developing template profiles.

The internal wall (partition) should be positioned with some offset from the joint to the right or left. Thus, on one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, installation begins in a similar order, but on the right.

Having determined the exact dimensions of the parts included in each crown, you can begin to detail the contours of the templates for the right and left versions.

Templates can be made from edged “inch” boards prepared for lathing. The surfaces of the boards should be pre-planed.

To mark the extensions, you can not make separate templates, but place them on the main templates by making 4 small cuts (“a” and “d”) on their edges and drilling two holes (“b” and “c”). Thanks to the through holes, the template becomes technologically “transparent” while actually being “opaque.” Thus, a typical technical contradiction can be resolved quite simply.

After marking the template, the shaded parts are cut out. The marking devices are ready.
As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from 7 to 3 (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse walls). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to prepare parts for transverse walls and partitions.

Moreover, only a partition installed asymmetrically forces you to make 2 longitudinal templates. With a symmetrical installation, one marking device would be enough.

When developing templates, it should be taken into account that on a construction site, marking devices can be rotated 180° relative to the longitudinal axis, and also moved along the longitudinal axis. It is strictly not recommended to rotate a long template 180° around the vertical axis, since it will be almost impossible to do this during work. Now let's look at how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is laid on the beam and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a recess for the “half-tree” connection. The marked timber is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (it is better to shade them when marking) are cut out with a chain saw.

The same is done with the second beam. On the longitudinal wall, we need to make an “extension” for each full beam. To do this, place a template on the beam (position I in Fig. 14) and trace it. The sample for the “half-tree” connection at the end of the workpiece is marked with an awl, pricking the beam at points “c” and “b” (see Fig. 14, node A).

Then the template is shifted (position II in Fig. 14) and the contour is traced again. The timber with two marked additional parts is placed on pads in the cutting area. After cutting out the shaded areas, extensions are obtained for both longitudinal walls. Arrows in Fig. Figure 14 shows manipulations with the installation of additional parts in the walls.
Since the joints of the beams are staggered, the markings of the crown located above begin on the right side. Here the elements of the corner locks are already changing: if there was a groove on the longitudinal beam, and a tenon on the transverse beam, now everything should be the other way around.

However, how to mark parts with spikes? Should I make separate templates for them or make do with the marking devices that I already have? It is quite obvious that the tenon and groove are elements of the same unit, and therefore must correspond to each other in size and location, which means that a template with grooves can be used to construct tenon profiles on timber blanks. In Fig. 14 (node ​​B] shows a template for a transverse wall with a groove and parts with a tenon obtained using it. Moreover, to make the partition, holes are drilled in the template, which set the width of its tenon.

As for the size of the tenon, in no case should the tenon be allowed to fit tightly into the groove. The thorn will subsequently dry out, and as a result a channel will form, which will certainly turn into a “cold bridge.” Therefore, if the dimensions of the groove are 5x5 cm, then the tenon should have dimensions of 4.5x4.5 cm. The gap is filled with insulation.

Until now, speaking about marking, we assumed that the template profile was transferred to the upper edge of the beam. Various grooves and tenons are sawed from the side. This means that the horizontal markings need to be transferred to the vertical edge of the beam. This is done using squares. Accurate cuts are made using these markings.

Practical construction experience shows that it is unrealistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints. Therefore, mistakes often occur here when a tenon is marked instead of a groove, and vice versa. And this is no wonder if you do not use a system that makes marking grooves and tenons extremely simple. The diagram (Fig. 16) shows the walls with the designation of the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting elements at the ends of the blanks, and also indicates the positions of the openings in the wall. Such a diagram, which can be applied directly to the template, simplifies the organization of work and prevents marking errors.

Rice. 16. Scheme for marking corner joints of timber frames: 1 - joints of parts of longitudinal walls; 2 -doorways

Every person who has purchased a small plot of land for a summer cottage strives to build a house or a similar easily erected structure in a short time. To have a place to relax after a hard day at work, or to hide from inclement weather. Well, it’s natural to get settled in everyday life. Of course, it is advisable to build a house so that it can accommodate the whole family and guests who come for the weekend. The task is, of course, enormous, but quite doable if you have accumulated savings to build a country house, because a large amount of new building material will be required.

If possible, you can hire hired workers to build this structure.

Of course, this will significantly increase financial expenses for your family, and if this is not possible, you will have to build a country house with your own hands.

Mostly, dacha owners build their houses with their own hands in order to save money on hiring a construction team and invite relatives and friends to help with the construction, which naturally reduces the cost of the construction process.

Summer residents also sometimes use used materials, which can be purchased at half the price compared to market prices, but this will reduce the durability of the structure by half.

When building his country house, the author decided not to skimp on the basic material and buy everything on the construction market so that it would last for a century and the house would last a long time, delighting his family and his guests with its comfort and aesthetic appearance.

Of course, wood was chosen as the main material for construction, what could be better and more beautiful than a tree. The author purchased bars and boards at a local sawmill, which turned out to be much cheaper than in a hardware store.

When starting construction, I pre-drilled holes for the supporting pillars, inserted and filled cement mortar. I tied the poles with boards and left them for a day for the solution to dry. Then he began construction, step by step moving towards his cherished goal.

And so now let's take a closer look at how he built his country house IR, and what he needed for this.

Materials: board 30 mm, timber 100 by 100, timber 40 by 60, batten 50 mm, insulation, professional sheet, lath, fiberboard.
Tools: a circular saw, drill, drill, screwdriver, hammer, shovel, electric plane, angle, ruler, tape measure, circular saw.

And so the first thing he did was invite his neighbor and together they drilled holes to install the pillars.

Then I installed the posts and filled the holes with cement mortar.

I made a screed at the bottom and top so that the pillars would stand level, and after a day, after the solution had gained hardness, I began further construction.

The author makes the top harness.

Then he moves on to creating the roof ridge.

Next he makes the roof sheathing.

Shows the rafter attachment point.

The remains from sawing will also come in handy somewhere.

Next, he proceeds to installing the roof from a professional sheet.

Then he moves on to installing the floors of the house.

So we have a place to store boards from precipitation.

Prepares a batch of boards, cutting them apart on a circular saw.

And begins finishing the cornice.

She covers the walls with boards, and seals the gaps between the boards with slats.

Next we move on to the ceiling trim.

Probably, among summer residents there is not a single person who would not dream of their own small, cozy, country house. Such a structure can become a wonderful place to relax and live for the whole family for the whole summer.

But the stay will be even more pleasant if the owner builds the house with his own hands, because this is not at all difficult to do, especially if you have already encountered construction or at least repair work in your life.

Well, even if you have never held a drill or hammer in your hands, do not despair, because this article will present detailed step-by-step construction instructions.

Preparatory activities

Before you begin the construction process itself, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules, prepare a project for a country house made of timber, and also purchase the necessary Construction Materials.

Note!
We will consider all stages of construction using the example of a one-story building 4x5 meters with access to the attic, but without an attic.

Primary requirements

There are several basic rules that everyone who undertakes construction should know:

• Selecting a building site. The location should be chosen in such a way that the structure is accessible and practical. It should exclude the possibility of fire from neighboring structures. It is also necessary to provide for the supply of communications to the selected area;

Note!
The choice of a building site must take into account the basic rules: the distance from the street must be 5 meters or more; from the fences of neighboring areas from 3 meters or more; and wooden structures should be 15 or more meters away from your home.

• Soil analysis.
  Before the beginning construction work It is necessary to carry out a soil analysis on the site in order to determine:
  • Groundwater level;
  • Soil freezing level;
• Preparation of a place on site where materials necessary during the construction process will be stored.

Advice. Also provide covered areas to protect purchased building materials from rain.

Project work

Drawing up documentation consists of indicating the parameters of the structure and creating a sketch:

• First you need to indicate the dimensions of the building. Since we are talking about a one-story building, the length, width, height of the walls and roof will be sufficient. In our case, this is: length – 4 m, width – 5 m, height – 3 m, which means the structure will have an area of ​​20 m2 and a volume of 60 m3;
• After the location of the main walls is outlined on paper, you need to decide on the number and location of partitions that can divide the building into 1-2 rooms. The building in question is small, so one partition separating the kitchen and sleeping areas will be sufficient;
• The design documentation must indicate all construction materials that will be used in the construction of the building.

Construction Materials

Timber is an environmentally friendly building material that is perfect for the construction of country houses. The roof for such a structure can be made of metal tiles or corrugated sheets, which is a fairly economical option.

As for finishing, in this situation best choice there will be varnish or paint that will not only allow you to create beautiful interior, but also protect building materials from moisture, positively affecting the strength of the structure. But in order to paints and varnishes adhered well to wood, it must be prepared for finishing work by treating it with specialized protective substances.

Note!
The price of such construction depends directly on what kind of timber will be purchased.
Dacha houses are built from both profiled and laminated timber, the latter option being more expensive, but easier and more convenient to work with.

Tools for work

During the work you will need the following set of tools:

• Screwdriver;
• Electric drill;
• Roulette;
• Plumb and building level;
• Jigsaw;
• Hacksaw;
• Furniture stapler;
• Mallet and hammer;
• Roller and brushes for finishing work.

Working on the base

After everything preparatory activities finished and tools purchased, it's time to start. Often, small log country houses are not suitable for heavily loading the soil, so the most cost-effective option is to build a columnar type foundation.

It is not difficult to build this type of foundation yourself if you carry out the work according to the following instructions:

1. Digging holes. The holes are dug in such a way that their bottom is located below the freezing level of the soil;

Advice. For the convenience of further work, you should dig a hole about 0.5 m in diameter so that the finished post, processed, can be easily lowered into it. waterproofing materials, and then fill the gaps with soil.

1. Sand pillow. A layer of sand about 10-15 cm thick is poured into the bottom of the hole and compacted thoroughly;
2. Construction of formwork. Formwork for a post with a cross section of 15x15 cm is constructed from plywood or boards in a hole so that the post is 20-30 cm above the soil level;
3. Mixing the solution.
   In a prepared container or on a spread plastic wrap, mix a solution of the following ingredients:
   1. Cement;
   2. Water;
   3. Sand;
   4. Crushed stone;
4. Filling. The resulting thick mass is poured into the previously created formwork;
5. Reinforcement. In order for the pillar to have necessary level for strength, 3-4 metal rods must be inserted into the freshly poured solution;

1. Waterproofing. After the solution has set, i.e. after 5-7 days, it is necessary to remove the scorch and coat the resulting column with bitumen;
2. Backfill. The gaps are filled in layers with soil, which is carefully compacted;

Note!
The pillars should be located at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from each other.

1. Checking horizontality. After all the work on creating the supports has been completed, it is necessary to check the horizontality of the resulting structure. If the error between the heights is no more than 3-5 mm, then it is necessary to cover the tops of the supports with roofing material;
2. Base. Now that the foundation is ready, all that remains is to lay a base made of beams on it, fastening them together using ordinary nails.

Walling

When building country houses from profiled timber, material with a cross-section of 10x10 cm will be sufficient. This size is quite enough for the structure to withstand possible loads.

The process of constructing walls is divided into the following stages:

1. First of all, you need to lay out one row of material directly on the base;
2. The second row of timber is laid with fixation along the entire length using dowels, which are located in increments of 1 meter;

Advice. This type of fastener must be recessed into the material to a depth of 1-2 cm in order to prevent its contact with the material of the next row.

1. It is better to start work from one corner, erecting two perpendicular walls, not forgetting where the internal partitions of the building will be located, if any are provided for in the project;

Advice. For construction interior walls it is necessary to provide additional grooves in the beams and lay the internal and external walls simultaneously.

1. Window and door openings must remain empty until the structure has completely settled. This is necessary in order to avoid distortions and unevenness.

Roof construction

Installation of the roof is one of the most important and responsible stages of construction, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure directly depend on the roof:

1. Horizontal logs are installed, which are also ceiling slabs;
2. On these same logs, vertical supports are attached in the center, equal in height to the size specified in the gable roof design;

Advice. If you decide to build a non-gable structure, then the vertical supports must be positioned depending on the type of roof you have chosen.
So, for example, for a single-pitch type of roof, the supports are mounted directly above the load-bearing wall.

1. Rafters are installed, which should be secured with metal corners on self-tapping screws. The rafters are positioned in increments of no more than 60 cm;
2. Using horizontal boards, the rafters are attached to each other;
3. The inside surface of the roof is sheathed with windproof fabric using a furniture stapler;
4. All that remains is to fix the ones you have chosen roofing materials and the roof is ready.

Advice. The inexpensive and most popular sheets of corrugated sheets in this business are attached without the need for additional drilling using galvanized self-tapping screws and a drill with a suitable drill bit.

If you plan to use such a structure not only for summer period, A all year round, then you will need to insulate the roof using insulation for timber fixed between the rafters.

Insulation and finishing work

But, on the other hand, no one bothers the owners to live in the country in winter, but then it will be necessary to do the following:

• Polystyrene foam is the most accessible, inexpensive and easy-to-use insulation material;
• Before attaching it to the walls, you need to decide what kind of insulation you will have, external or internal;

Note!
External insulation can spoil the appearance of the facade, and internal insulation can eat up the area of ​​the building;

• Before laying the insulating layer, the wood must be treated with antiseptic agents, protecting it from insects and mold formations.

After the thermal insulation has been carried out, it is necessary to carry out finishing. As mentioned earlier, the timber must be painted or varnished in order for the wood to retain its strength characteristics and texture.

Finally

As one might understand, building a country house with your own hands is a process that does not require special skills or specialized equipment from the master; it is enough to strictly follow the technology.

In order to build such a structure at your own dacha, you will not need to rent construction equipment. 2-3 people are enough to work with timber, and the house will be ready in just a few weeks. Most importantly, do not forget to wait for the shrinkage time before moving into such a building.

The video in this article will tell you even more about the intricacies and tricks of construction from timber.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The dream of many city dwellers is a beautiful small house outside the city, where they can escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, hide from the heat, and feel the pleasant freshness of the earth under their feet instead of hot asphalt. But not everyone’s dreams come true; it seems that a country house is complicated, expensive, and time-consuming. In fact, building a country house with your own hands is quite simple.

Planning the space

Choosing a location for a future country house is not the time for hasty decisions, because there is not that much space. Thoughtful, competent planning will help you use every piece of land as efficiently as possible. Even though this is your land, you will have to fulfill a number of requirements, maintaining a minimum distance:

• from the street – 5 m
• from the passage – 3 m
• from the neighboring plot - 3 m

We are not considering the option with a low area - water will accumulate there. Optimally, the highest place on the site is in its northern (northwestern) part.

Projects of small country houses

Considering typical designs of country houses, it is easy to notice that the undisputed favorite is a one-story building with an attic. This is a time-tested option for a country house, but you can dispense with the utility unit, because equipment and household supplies can be stored in the attic.

You can add a terrace to the house - in summer it can be used as a dining room. Two-story country houses often obtained without actually constructing a “clean” second floor, having arranged instead attic. Then on the ground floor you can plan a kitchen and living room, and the second floor - for the personal space (bedrooms) of the owners.

Advice! You can save significantly on the heating system - even at the most modest prices for installing a classic one (boiler, pipes and radiators) accounts for 15-20% of the total budget. If you are building a small country house with your own hands, where you plan to live only during the “season” (late spring - early autumn), then to heat it in bad weather, you can get by with electric or infrared heaters.

Prefabricated country houses are becoming very popular - unpretentious, outwardly monotonous parallelepipeds with roof We replaced buildings that were interesting in architectural terms, with an improved layout, one or two floors.

You are buying a kind of construction kit; such a country house can be easily erected with only basic knowledge about construction. The main thing is that it already includes all the systems - electrical wiring, ventilation, air conditioning, plumbing. This will help avoid many mistakes that beginners make when they decide to build a country house with their own hands.

A prefabricated country house is designed for a long holiday with family or friends; it is larger in area, can be one or two floors, with an improved layout. This house is equipped technical room, kitchen, rest rooms and bathroom, equipped with a heating, ventilation, air conditioning system, and supplied with electricity.

The house can be equipped with a water heater, sink, countertop, hanging shelves, shower cabin, necessary plumbing. After installing such a country house, no additional repair work, it is completely ready for use.

Laying the foundation

The choice of foundation type is directly related to the choice of material from which the house will be built, as well as the number of storeys. Light houses (from rounded wood, timber, frame houses and modular) can be erected on columnar or screw foundation, heavy (brick, aerated concrete, stone, concrete blocks) and two-story houses will require the laying of a strip foundation (as an option - prefabricated, made of reinforced concrete blocks) along the entire perimeter and under the load-bearing walls of the house.

It is important to know the depth of soil freezing - the foundation should be laid below this level, taking into account the level at which groundwater lies.

In the basement part it is required to install waterproofing at a level of 0.2-0.5 m from the ground. If the soil is dry enough (sand), a cement-sand screed 2-4 cm thick can be used as a screed. For wet soil, roofing material will need to be laid on top of such a screed - in two layers. As an option, roofing felt can be glued onto a dry screed using hot mastic. Waterproofing is installed below the expected level of laying the floor beams.

Advice! In the basement, to ensure ventilation of the subfloor, small holes are made, which are covered with a protective mesh.

A blind area is created around the base, its width is at least 70 cm (it should protrude further than the overhang of the cornice), with a slight slope directed from the walls of the house. To do this, the top layer of earth is removed, clay (sand) is poured, a layer of crushed stone (gravel, broken brick) is poured on top of it and filled with concrete (rolled with asphalt).

Floor and walls

Flooring begins with laying joists. To insulate the floor, insulation is laid between the joists, on top of which a vapor barrier is laid. It is attached to the joists with a stapler, and the joints are taped. Then the subfloor is laid, for which they use an unedged, cheapest board, having previously treated it with an agent against dampness and rot. And only then the finished floor is laid out. IN two-story house The frame for the floor on the second floor is the ceiling beams of the first.

Country houses Over time, they become obsolete and begin to seem cramped. But many are in no hurry to demolish them - they expand them with extensions and rebuild them. Another popular thing is to build new house instead of the existing one. Old-built dwellings are almost all made of logs, while modern ones are made mainly of timber. If you build with your own hands, yourself, without the involvement of workers, then a standard size beam of 150x150 mm is not suitable - it is too heavy, especially raw. I decided to do something simpler - to build a house from dry timber (atmospheric drying) with a cross-section of 150×1001 and, after shrinking the walls, insulate it from the outside with basalt wool of the same thickness. I try to adhere to SNiPs, but they say that for our middle zone Even a 150-mm layer of wood is not enough; additional insulation is indispensable.

To ensure that construction is not too expensive, do not use local materials and take into account existing conditions and traditions.

Stage 1 – Preparing and pouring the foundation

Before choosing the type of foundation, design and materials for its manufacture, it is necessary to study the geological conditions. You need to know exactly the composition of the soil and determine the groundwater level. And the most important thing is to see how the foundations of the houses that have stood here for a long time are constructed. For example, it turned out that in our area (Ryazan region, Kasimovsky district) foundations are made mainly of white stone - limestone (1). As a rule, without reinforcement and at the same time - shallow laying. And there are reasons for this: the soil is sandy, and therefore not “heaving”. It is very far from the water, and the houses are mostly wooden huts.

We begin the work of constructing the foundation by digging trenches and removing the fertile layer (2). The sand that appears is poured with water to compact it. We fill the trenches with stone and lay two bars of reinforcement with bandages in the corners. It seems that reinforcement in the lower and upper parts of the foundation strip will not be superfluous (3).

You can, of course, try to order ready-made concrete delivered by a mixer truck, but in our area this is unrealistic - there is no supply. And he wouldn’t be able to go to the garden. But the main reason is that ready-made concrete is expensive, while free sand lies right under your feet, and ordering a car of stone from us is cheaper than ordering an empty car in Moscow. By the way, if money is really bad, nothing prevents you from saving on stone, for example, by picking it up on the river.

The very first kneading by hand on a sheet of iron showed the meaninglessness of this activity in the 21st century. There were two options left - use a concrete mixer or abandon construction. Let's choose the first one. This is how the CM-160 concrete mixer from the Kraton company appeared on site (4).

And the process began (5) - just have time to deliver the cement. It is convenient to move the concrete mixer along the trench, and to fill the solution we had to adapt a sheet lying under our feet (6). To prevent it from sagging, we substitute supports from scraps of board (7).

It is better not to cover the plastic casing where the engine is located during operation, so as not to block the outlet of air cooling the engine. Plastic film can be thrown over afterwards to protect against precipitation.

We actively use a concrete mixer to prepare a solution into which we place (and sometimes simply dump) stones (8). In this way the tape was poured to ground level. Above, we lay out a ribbon of the same stone using a thicker mortar (9).

Before reaching the top, we install a reinforcement cage similar to the bottom one (10). To complete the masonry, a smaller stone was required (11).

We give the almost finished foundation time to stand before building the house (12). Its appearance is not very smooth, but the surface can always be finished - plastered using a concrete mixer (by the way, almost all houses in the village are like this), or covered with decorative panels.

In the process of work, we managed to save a lot - no formwork was needed, local, very cheap materials were used - sand and stone. To summarize, it turns out that all costs (including the cost of a concrete mixer) turned out to be less than the cost of ready-made concrete (which there was nowhere to get) and formwork.

But, unfortunately, this will not work in every area. For example, in a swamp near Moscow, one would have to make a spatial frame from reinforcement, construct formwork and pour concrete.

Stage 2 – Assembling a house from timber

PREPARATORY STAGE

To build the frame of the house, 150x100 mm timber was used, the wall from which was subsequently planned to be insulated. The timber lay in the stack for two years. During this time it, of course, dried out and became much lighter. Some samples “led” quite noticeably, mostly spun like a “propeller”.

Such timber, unlike a square beam (150×150), is not always sawed from the middle part of the trunk; radial sawing is rare - and this is a reason for deviation from the rectangular cross-section during drying and for twisting with a screw.

However, the desire to deal with dry material outweighs any possible difficulties when assembling a house.

MANUFACTURING NAILS

As is known, the right houses They are assembled from timber on wooden dowels. For their manufacture, cutting boards left over after performing some work, for example, installing sheathing under the roof (13), are suitable.

The smaller the growth rings on the wood, the better - the higher the hardness. We take the scraps and trim them on one side on the appropriate saw (14). Then we set the stop and saw to size (15), in our case 120 mm. The result was neat planks and firewood (16).

We pass the planks through the band saw (17) - we get a box of sticks square section(18). All that remains is to sharpen them with a hatchet (so that square areas remain) on both sides - and several hundred dowels are prepared (19).

MOSS PREPARATION

To assemble the house you will need inter-crown insulation. “Advanced” builders usually use rolls, which are sold on any construction market. It’s very simple to work with: just roll out the tape and lay down the timber.

Moss is another matter. Firstly, it costs nothing, and secondly, it is a natural antiseptic. There is a lot of information on this topic, but I couldn’t find it anywhere negative feedback about the use of moss. It is recommended to use white sphagnum or red peat moss (20). The first one, when dried, turns into a very fragile mass, and the second consists of long stems with leaves similar to a herringbone, and quite hard. Fresh moss that has been stored for no more than two weeks is best. I kept the moss in plastic bags for a week in a slightly damp state and in hot weather - nothing happened to it.

Moss smells of iodine, almost like the sea - undoubtedly, this once again testifies to its benefits.

MANUFACTURING JOBS

For a classic timber house, it is necessary to prepare jambs for every opening, be it a window or a door.

We choose a smooth beam, preferably without knots or with a minimum number of them. For work, you can build an impromptu workbench right next to the stack of lumber (21). Having made longitudinal cuts with a circular saw with a parallel stop (22), we easily cut out the excess material with a chisel (23).

It is very difficult to make joints according to all the rules; not every carpenter can do it. Therefore, for windows we use a greatly simplified version, accessible to everyone. IN window opening There will be only two vertical jambs, and the horizontal connection will be made by the factory-made window block itself, which is quite massive. (In village huts, the window opening is usually “leaning” on all four sides and sashes are inserted into it.)

To install the block, you need a “quarter”, but even here you can really simplify the matter - instead of sampling the material (shown by hatching in photo 24), you can glue the strip, having previously sharpened the plane. You'll get the same result.

This simplification will not work with a doorway - all four elements will be needed. But it is quite possible to simplify the very shape of the products.

In the lower beam (25), which will serve as a threshold, we select the same grooves as in the vertical jambs, so that it also fits onto the tenons of the opening. But here you would have to chisel across the grain - a very thankless task. We proceed as follows: we make cuts with a circular saw, setting the required output of the disk and securing the parallel stop (26), then we drill a hole with a diameter of 25 mm with a feather drill, as for dowels (27). And finally, use a reciprocating saw to cut an even rectangle across the grain (28).

Professional carpenters use a chisel to cut out two rectangular sockets in the threshold, and make counter protrusions at the bottom of the vertical jambs, sawing out and cutting off excess material with a chisel. We will drill holes as for dowels, and hammer in two dowels (29). We drill the same holes (30) at the bottom of the jambs.

We don’t do anything with the upper horizontal beam yet, but nail a board to the threshold - an imitation of a “quarter”. The result was a greatly simplified design of the doorway (31), which still fulfilled its function. In the future we will plan it and glue in “quarters”.

ESSENTIAL TOOL

The following power tools were used in the construction of the timber box: constantly - a Makita 5704R circular saw and a Makita 6408 hammerless drill, occasionally - a Makita 1923H electric planer and reciprocating saw Skil 4900 (32). Hand tool: water hose, square, plumb line, tape measure, hammer, sledgehammer, axe, chisel.

To cut the timber we use a Makita 5704R circular saw. We cut the beam in two times - draw a line along the square, cut it, then turn it over and cut it again. The line can be transferred to the opposite side with a square or drawn and sawed “by eye”.

With the same saw we make grooves for the corner joint and the main tenon. When doing the latter, the cutting depth was a little lacking - I had to make several movements with a hand hacksaw.

ASSEMBLY A HOUSE FROM BEAM WITH YOUR OWN HANDS

To work with timber near the foundation, it is advisable to place a workbench, but you can get by with a stack of lumber approximately 850 mm high (33).

FIRST CROWN

I had to tinker with laying the first crown, because you need to have a flat horizontal surface of the foundation. By the way, it is better to provide it immediately during laying (or pouring).

The first crown is usually connected “to the floor of the tree.” This knot is easily performed with a circular saw - we cut across and along (34). Where there is not enough cutting depth, we make several movements with a hand hacksaw (35), then cut off the excess with a chisel - it’s done (36). By the way, this is the only crown where nails were used for connection.

In photo (37) you can see that the crown stands on pads. There are gaps between them; subsequently, vents will be organized there. In our area, it is customary to make them in the wall, and not in the foundation. This is much simpler, and the wind speed at altitude is greater than at the ground, therefore, ventilation of the underground will be more intense. It is planned to install floor beams on the pads (they are wider than the walls) to distribute the load on the foundation.

We cover the first crown and linings with Senezh antiseptic. According to my observations, the wood of the element lying on the waterproofing is destroyed most quickly. In this case, these are lining boards, and not the first crown. The lining, if the need ever arises, will be much easier to replace than the first crown.

SECOND AND FOLLOWING CROWNS

From the second crown, the same type of monotonous work begins. In the corners, the beams must be connected to the main tenon; simple joining of the beams is unacceptable. Using a circular saw, we trim the beam in two cuts using a square (38) - the cutting line is transferred to the opposite side. Making a root tenon is simple (39). If there is not enough disk output, we resort to using a hand saw. Choosing a groove is even easier (40).

Note. In all tongue-and-groove joints, it is necessary to provide space for laying thermal insulation material (I have a gap of 4-5 mm). You can't just let wood touch wood.

We pre-set the required cutting depth.

Note. At the sawMakita 5704R disc output value changes easily and quickly- loosening the lever. It is very convenient to use. If in carpentry the usual procedure is this: set some tool parameter- and you are processing a series of parts, then with carpenters it’s often the other way around: dragging the timber onto the workbench- and adjust the depth of cut for different components.

I was very pleased with the thin disk of the “circular” - it noticeably reduces the effort required.

The safety guard rises so smoothly when making a cut that you don't notice it.

If the length of the wall is greater than the length of the timber, you will have to splice it along its length. We make cuts on both sides of a long beam, cut off the excess with a chisel and get a tenon in the central part (41). If there is a tenon, it means a groove is needed. But I have already said that cutting a tree crosswise with a chisel is not my method; no one needs such “feats”! We drill a through hole (I drilled from both sides towards each other due to the insufficient length of the drill) (42), cut off the excess from the workpiece (43), mark it and easily chop along the fibers with a chisel (44). By the way, if you wish, you can change the order - cut the workpiece to size, and then drill a through hole.

We connect two beams (45) and fill the gaps with moss (46).

Note. In the crown from which the opening begins, it is convenient to immediately make tenons for the jambs of this opening. When cutting, the saw will not be able to complete them completely; you will have to chisel at the very end. In photo (47) you can see that the beams are spiked, and the thresholds of the doorways are used as templates.

And now the second crown with all the connections (corners and splices along the length) is placed on the first one, now it is necessary to mark the position of the dowels that will connect the beams. Using a square, we make vertical marks with a pencil on the upper and lower beams (48) - in those places where the dowels are planned to be installed. Turn over the top beam. From the vertical line we transfer the markings to the center of the beam (49). Then we drill holes (50) to a given depth (more than half the length of the dowel) and hammer the dowels (51) into them with a hammer.

Note. Hammerless drillMakita 6408 with a power of 530 W successfully copes with drilling holes for dowels. It is also convenient for adding furniture fittings. It was necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 2 mm for self-tapping screws - the absence of chuck runout allowed this to be done.

ABOUT THE NAGELS

From an engineer's point of view, a dowel with a circular cross-section should be driven into a round hole. But carpenters think differently: a dowel with a square cross-section is easier to make, and it holds more tightly. And most importantly, the short dowel does not prevent the house from settling. The fact is that holding a drill in your hand, it is impossible to drill a perfectly vertical hole. When the next beam is installed on slightly protruding pointed dowels, it wobbles a little, but is more or less firmly installed after being pushed down with a sledgehammer. Such dowels work only for shearing and guarantee complete settlement (even if placed with a slight deviation from the vertical) due to drying of the timber (if it is damp) and compaction of the inter-crown insulation, without the formation of cracks. My cross-sectional dowel size is 22×22 mm, and the diameter of the drill bit is 25 mm (52).

I once watched workers drilling timber wall with a long drill (by the way, it’s not cheap!) and drove in the same long dowels of a round cross-section, similar to rake handles. There was no question of verticality from the holes. After this, the house, instead of settling, “hung” on these cuttings, and huge gaps formed between the beams. These are the “rake”...

LAYING MOSS AND TOWHERE

After hammering in the dowels, lay out the tow and moss (53). Moreover, the tow is in fibers across the beam, and we simply throw the moss over it (54). Moss is almost dry, but not dust.

Hanging tow will be convenient for caulking, and moss does not need advertising.

After installing all the crown beams on the dowels, laying tow and moss, and settling with a sledgehammer, the structure is still wobbly due to gaps in the corner joints. We tightly hammer the moss into these gaps (they do not exceed 4-5 mm here) using a spatula (55) and a narrow metal strip (56). It is difficult to push white moss - it crumbles, but when mixed with red moss it fits perfectly into cavities.

Note. Why do we only put moss in the corners? First, moss- an excellent antiseptic. The house will remain unfinished for a long time, and rainwater will flow in the corners. Secondly, if it becomes necessary to plan a beam in a corner (57), the moss will not become a hindrance, while the tow will inevitably wrap around the plane drum and jam it. I had such a case, and the drive belt broke.

After this, not only did the corners become unsellable and warm, but the strength of the joints also increased sharply - stronger than with nails!

Note. After the end of the working day corner connections it is better to close from possible rain (58).

ALIGNMENT OF BARS

In photo (59) you can see that one beam is higher than the other, and they should be equal in height. But don’t immediately take up the plane - a blow with a sledgehammer can solve everything.

We use the plane last - where there is clearly visible interference with laying the next crown, for example, if it is necessary to knock down “humps” (they often form near knots) or to level a “screw”. Strict timber for a better fit can waste a lot of time. I believe that tow and moss - optimal solution crack problems.

CROWN BY CROWN

We lay the next crown so that the joints in the corners alternate. Internal bearing wall needs to be connected to the longitudinal wall with the same standard connection (60) - through one crown. As usual, we mark and drill holes for the pins, but in a “checkerboard” order relative to the lower crowns (61), lay out the tow and moss (62). When all the beams are in place, seal the corner joints (63).

We lay each new crown, mark it (64), drill holes (65), hammer in dowels (66), lay out the inter-crown insulation (67). And the house grows...

It is customary to join beams along the length (68) “staggered”.

OPENINGS

When the house has grown to the level of installation of window blocks (here is the seventh crown, from the future floor to the window sill - 800 mm), we mark the window openings in accordance with the drawing. The minimum (overall) width of the opening is chosen as the width of the window block + dimensions of the jambs without taking into account the depth of the groove (2×70 mm) + four sealed gaps (two per side: between the wall and the jamb, as well as between the jamb and the window block - only 15 mm ). Total: the width of the opening is equal to the width of the block (for example, 1170 mm) plus 155 mm. We install the crown with window openings according to these dimensions - tenons are pre-cut into the beams, as is the case with doorways (69).

In the next crowns, the beams of the opening do not have spikes yet, but the inner overall size complied with.

Usually in the openings, through several beams, a solid beam is placed to connect the wall and level the opening. I decided to lay out all the openings from “short ones” (70) without jumpers - there is no point in translating even timber, and the behavior during drying is still of no use. The whole not very even, but dry timber went to the “short ones”. In this case, it is necessary to constantly check the openings in a plumb line; it would not hurt to check the straightness of the wall consisting of piers (71).

The corner and T-shaped structure support themselves, and it is better to temporarily fasten a separate partition with slats (72) - it is very easy to collapse it.

Note. Where there will be tenons of the opening and the cutting line with a circular saw will pass (this is a few centimeters from the edge), you should not put tow, otherwise it will wrap around the disk (73). Subsequently, it is easy to knock it out from the ends.

When the crown on which the openings are completed has been previously laid (without dowels and tow), we remove the upper beams of the openings. They are all light “shorties”. Next we make cuts with a saw for the tenons on which the jambs are placed. The disk is set to the required depth, a parallel stop is installed to indent from the edge - the work does not take much time (74). A “circular saw” will not be able to completely cut through a beam directly in the wall, but on a workbench it is very simple.

At the initial crown of the opening, we cut down tenons for orientation and control of assembly - it is more convenient to “throw” a plumb line in the opening. There is no need to do this at the final crown of the opening; anyway, then you will have to cut the tenons in all the beams.

Assembling openings without connection to the very top, and even using for this purpose “short ones” from the beams removed during drying, is not an easy task.

If the piece is short and light, you can try on the workpiece before cutting the tenon (or groove) - suddenly, a beam that deviates to the left will fall on a beam that deviates to the right, and then you will end up with a smooth wall. If both lean in one direction, the “Leaning Tower of Pisa” is quite possible (75).

So you have to either cut off the “screw” with a plane, or go “step” - photo (76) illustrates just such a case. In addition, the gap (77) was eliminated - also not without a plane.

The main thing is not to forget to constantly control the verticality of the openings with a plumb line.

INSTALLATION OF JAMBLES

Once the top crown is in place, it's time to install the jambs on all the openings. This will significantly increase the strength, otherwise some free-standing walls can easily be shaken by hand. In each opening, the lower beam has a full tenon, and the upper beam is cut with a saw in the right place. All that remains is to attach the guide (78), set the required cutting depth and make the cut with a circular saw (79). From the ends, along a plumb line, we draw two lines - the size of the tenon, and cut off all excess with a chisel (80).

The width of the tenon is less than the width of the groove by the amount of two gaps for heat-insulating material. Nowadays, jambs are installed only to increase strength and ensure normal settlement, so the tenons can be left wider and then chopped during finishing.

Spacers (81) were temporarily placed between the jambs.

RESULT AND PRICES

If you plan to do this in the future frame extension(for example, a veranda at the entrance), then it is better to lay the topmost crown at the time of construction of the extension. So in my case, there was one less crown laid.

All that remains is to cover the box with a temporary roof (82), close the openings and wait for the next construction season.

CONCLUSIONS

My foundation turned out to be significantly cheaper analogues. A dump truck of stone in our area costs 4,000 rubles. Sand costs nothing - a friend brought two carts on a tractor. The main expenses were for cement - 48 bags of 200 rubles each. that is, 9600 rubles. The fittings were bought in a retail store - 8200 rubles. Total - 21,800 rub.

When the timber lay in a stack about two meters wide and about a meter high, no one believed that this material would be enough for a house. But there are even twenty beams left. To be precise, a house measuring 6x10 m (of which the timber part is 6x7.5 m) required approximately 7.5 cubic meters of 150x100 mm timber. In 2009 prices (thanks to the crisis they decreased relative to 2008) it turns out: 7.5 × 5400 rubles. = 40,500 rub.

For timber 150x150 mm, the amount would have to be multiplied by 1.5, but that’s not all. It’s impossible to handle such a beam alone (we don’t take weightlifters into account) - which means it wouldn’t be possible without helpers. I don’t know how much their work costs.

To assemble an economy class house, you also needed free dowels and moss. And my friends supplied me with tow after the construction was completed.

It turns out that the basis of the future house - a timber box standing on the foundation - was completely inexpensive (I would even say cheap) at 62,300 rubles.

The work required a small set of tools that are versatile and useful for performing other tasks. The concrete mixer and circular saw played an important role.

Working alone and provided the weather is good, it is quite possible to lay one crown of a house with a partition in a day or a day and a half. The weight of the material allows: the timber is not a freshly sawn trunk (although not an “inflatable log”, even if the timber is dry).

Such construction does not require special skills. It turns out that having a modern country house in the village is a very realistic goal, if only there were land...

Based on materials from the magazine Everything for Construction and Repair – Spring 2010

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