Bath insulation with harmless materials. Thermal insulation of the roof of the bath Foam polystyrene as insulation in the steam room

September 3, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing works, both indoor and outdoor, from sewerage to electrics and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobby: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Do-it-yourself bath insulation outside (as well as high-quality thermal insulation inside) is obligatory condition to maintain a high temperature in the steam room and ensure a comfortable microclimate in other rooms. Even walls made of energy efficient materials (porous concrete, hollow ceramic bricks, glued laminated timber) need to be insulated. And the buildings erected according to traditional technology, this applies first of all.

In this article, I will give the algorithms that I use myself when performing external and internal thermal insulation of baths and saunas.

Thermal insulation of supporting structures

Exterior wall decoration with polymer panels

When starting thermal insulation work in a bath, many focus only on internal thermal insulation. This approach is fundamentally wrong, because by performing high-quality insulation with our own hands outside, we will provide additional protection against thermal energy losses.

This means that to get the heat we need in the steam room and comfortable coolness in the dressing room, it will be possible to spend less energy (it does not matter - firewood, gas or electricity). So the cost of insulation outside will pay off, and in the case of a bathhouse even faster than with a living space.

Thermal insulation of walls can be carried out in two ways. Universal option no, but I prefer to finish buildings made of bricks or concrete blocks with polystyrene or polystyrene followed by plastering, and the thermal insulation of a wooden bath should be carried out using the "ventilated facade" technology.

First, let's figure out how a brick bath needs to be prepared for finishing:

1. I clean the walls by checking the joints between the blocks and, if necessary, repairing them.
2. The outer surface is primed, protecting the brick from efflorescence, fungus, and improving adhesion with the adhesive. If we neglect the primer, then we will not have time to blink an eye, as salt will appear from the brick under a layer of insulation with high vapor barrier characteristics (and polymer plates pass air very poorly), destroying the bearing surfaces.
3. I install a U-shaped basement profile along the lower edge of the wall: it will prevent the insulation from sliding down under its own weight.

1. Panels of heat-insulating material - polystyrene, expanded polystyrene or dense mineral wool - are glued to the walls in a checkerboard pattern using an adhesive mixture based on high-quality cement with waterproofing additives.

It is necessary to choose a heater for a bath according to its resistance to heat transfer: this indicator depends on the type of material and on its thickness. If internal thermal insulation is planned, then 100 mm of foam or 50 mm of extruded polystyrene is sufficient outside.

1. Next, I take a hammer drill with a long drill and drill through the insulation so that the drill sinks into the wall by 40-50 mm. I fix the foam with dowel-umbrellas, reinforcing the adhesive fasteners.

1. I perform plastering of insulation, reinforcing the structure with an alkali-resistant polystyrene mesh.
2. I trowel the plaster and paint the walls outside with weather-resistant paint.

Frame facade

If the bathhouse is made of timber or logs, or is erected along frame technology, then I prefer to equip the so-called ventilated facade. The obvious pole of this design is vapor permeability (it largely solves the problem of excess humidity in the room), so when deciding which one to choose for frame bath insulation, it is worth focusing on plates based on mineral fibers.

The algorithm of work will differ significantly from the option described above:

1. To begin with, we need to put in order the walls themselves - to clean, caulk the seams, treat all surfaces with antiseptic impregnations.

If there are signs of damage to the wood, then these areas must be sanitized, and if defects are severe, the logs or beams must be replaced. All the same, it makes no sense to insulate a rotten bath, since under a layer of heat-insulating material, the process of destruction of wood will go many times faster.

1. Then we install the brackets on the walls, placing roofing material under their base or injure.

1. We attach the sheathing panels to the brackets. They are made either from a timber impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a steel galvanized profile. Despite the fact that the timber is more prone to deformation, I prefer to insulate the bath exactly according to wooden crate: after all, metal conducts heat better and therefore it can become a "cold bridge" .

1. Next, we put heat-insulating material into the crate cells. When deciding which is best for a frame bath, I settled on mineral wool medium density (up to 45kg / m3). But I know of cases when the place of basalt fiber slabs on the walls outside (as well as in the inner cavities of the frame) was sprayed with ecowool - five years have passed since the repair, and there are no complaints about the quality of insulation.

Mineral wool holds well in the cells due to its elasticity, but when compressed it loses some heat-saving properties. To avoid this, it is worth making the frame in strict accordance with the dimensions of the mineral wool slabs (standard - 600 mm), and in order to prevent the insulation from falling out, additionally fix it with several disc dowels.

1. Insulation for frame, timber or log bath be sure to cover with a windproof superdiffusion membrane. This material must be vapor-permeable, otherwise moisture will accumulate under the skin and moisten the thermal insulation layer.
2. Further, it all depends on what dimensions our crate has. If we made it with a margin and there is a gap of at least 20 mm between the insulation layer and the edge of the frame, then we immediately go to the sheathing. If there is no stock, then we press the thermal insulation panels with counter-lattice beams (I use parts with a section of 40x40): a block house, a false beam or other decorative material will be attached to them.

Roof insulation

The uninsulated roof of a bathhouse is a source of about 20-30% heat loss. Of course, we can block some of them by performing thermal insulation of the floor, but it is also advisable to finish the roof slopes themselves with materials with low thermal conductivity.

We act like this:

1. If there is no waterproofing layer under the roofing material (in the mind it must be there, but you never know!) - we lay a moisture-proof vapor-permeable membrane, passing it over the rafters. To do this, you almost always have to dismantle at least part of the roofing material, therefore, the waterproofing procedure should be performed even at the stage of construction of the structure.

1. We treat the rafters and elements of the roofing sheathing with an antiseptic (again, this should be done earlier).
2. In the gaps between the rafters, we lay insulating material on the inside. Optimal choice for do-it-yourself roof insulation - basalt fiber in slabs or rolls with a thickness of 50 to 75 mm.
3. From the inside, we cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film, which we fix directly on the rafters. For additional fastening of the entire structure, we either stuff the transverse beams of the counter-lattice on the rafters, or we perform the filing of the roof with clapboard - in the second case, we will get a rather neat-looking attic.

Interior decoration

We insulate the floor

The answer to the question of how to insulate a bathhouse correctly from the inside is no less difficult. This set of procedures usually begins with work on the floor slab:

1. We cover the concrete base with roofing material, on which we install the support beams for the log.

If the floor in the bath is done on the ground, then the soil must be compacted and covered with a layer of sand and gravel mixture with a thickness of 15 to 40 cm. The filling is carefully rammed, and for greater stability it can be concreted.

1. We lay logs on the support beams, the ends of which we fix on the walls of the room.
2. We fill the space between the lags with a layer of expanded clay. The thicker this layer is, the less heat loss will be through the lower layer of air in the room.
3. We cover the expanded clay with a waterproofing film. In principle, it is possible to equip a rough flooring on top of the expanded clay layer - but this is not necessary.
4. Between the lags, we lay panels of thermal insulation material. If we are finishing a dressing room or a rest room, then we can take polystyrene foam or even do with foam, but for a steam room it is only suitable mineral wool - it is important that the material is immune to high temperatures.

1. On top of the insulation, we lay a waterproofing vapor-tight membrane. The quality of waterproofing and vapor barrier is very important: by providing it, we minimize the risk of contact of the insulation with water.
2. Next, we lay the rough floor, and then equip flooring solid board or ceramic tiles... The board is "warmer" and more pleasant to the touch, but the tiles are easier to clean and less prone to swelling when wet, so it's your choice!

We decorate the walls

Sheathing the steam room, rest room and dressing room with our own hands, we must necessarily take care not only of their insulation, but also of protecting the thermal insulation from moisture and high temperatures... From this point of view, the steam room is the most difficult room, therefore, I will talk about the technology using its example:

1. The walls are primed with a moisture-protective antiseptic composition.
2. I mount the sheathing beams on the walls in such a way that the distance from the edge of the timber to the wall is approximately equal to or slightly greater than the thickness of the insulating material.

When choosing which one is better to take a heater for a steam room, you need to remember that we need a non-combustible material with low thermal conductivity. Polymer plates are not suitable here, and I would not risk it with ecowool, so there is no alternative to mineral fiber with a thickness of up to 100 - 150 mm (in the dressing room it is possible less).

1. I put the boards or rolls of insulation in the crate cells, making sure that the fibers are tested minimum load for compression.
2. From above I cover the thermal insulation with a vapor barrier material. For most rooms, an ordinary membrane is also suitable, but in a steam room, foil film or polyethylene foam with a metallized coating will be appropriate. Yes, the price of such products is quite high, but in addition to protecting mineral wool from moisture, they also act as a thermal mirror, reflecting heat into the steam room and providing substantial energy savings.

1. Separately, I insulate the slopes: both the windows must be made as tight as possible, which will reduce the risk of drafts (in the bath, and on the steamed body - almost guaranteed a cold), as well as reduce heat loss.
2. Next, I equip the counter-lattice: stuffing thin slats onto the frame, which will ensure the formation of an air gap between the skin and the insulation.

1. I install on the counter grill decorative panels... For the steam room, clapboarding of alder, poplar or others is usually practiced hardwood, but for rooms where the air does not warm up to such a high temperature, you can take a fairly cheap pine tree.
2. I also impregnate the decorative sheathing with a moisture-proof compound to prevent rotting and reduce deformation of wet wood during temperature changes.

Minimizing losses through the ceiling

Both a log, and a frame, and a brick bath also need thermal insulation of the ceiling. But if the inside of the ceiling is insulated using approximately the same technology as the walls, then outside, i.e. from the attic side, you can use another technique:

1. We put two layers of fiberglass on top of the rough ceiling - it will act as a barrier to liquid.
2. Prepare an insulating mortar: in a 1: 1 ratio, mix clay with sawdust or chopped straw, then fill the material with water and mix until a thick dough.

1. Pour the mortar between the ceiling beams, making sure that the liquid does not seep through the fiberglass into the lower rooms.
2. We dry the clay (this is not a quick matter, it can take several weeks), and then we lay a layer of dense insulation.
3. Cover the heat-insulating material with a moisture-proof membrane, after which we fill in the cement fixing screed.

Thanks to this technology, we form a multilayer cake with our own hands, which practically does not let heat through.

Conclusion

Thermal insulation of a bath is a whole range of works that (naturally, provided that it is implemented correctly) will minimize all heat losses, reduce the cost of heating the steam room, and, most importantly, provide a steady heat, for which we, in fact, go to the bath!

The video in this article will help you understand the nuances of the technology, and with complex questions you can always contact me or my colleagues in the comments below.

Polyfoam began to be produced not so long ago, in the 50s of the XX century. It consists of air bubbles enclosed in the thinnest polystyrene shell. Since most of the material is air (up to 98%, depending on the brand), the foam has excellent thermal insulation characteristics and therefore is often used as insulation.

Styrofoam as insulation

Its popularity is due not only to its thermal insulation properties. There is still a whole list positive qualities:

• Durability - up to 50 years under normal conditions and up to 20 years under severe conditions (with large temperature changes);
• Hydrophobicity. Polyfoam absorbs up to 0.2% moisture per day, i.e. we can say that it does not absorb it at all.
• Biological neutrality and stability. The temperature regime at which the material remains stable (does not collapse and does not emit any substances) is from -60 ° C to + 95 ° C. The safety of foam is confirmed by the fact that products from it use packaging food products, used in children's toys. These are two industries in which the safety of the materials used has received great attention lately. And no one ever spoke about the dangers of Styrofoam.
• Low price. However, very cheap offers should be treated with caution: products must have certificates. Materials made with violations technological processcan be dangerous.
• Styrofoam is easy to work with. It is lightweight, easy to cut, easy to assemble, does not require any additional protective equipment or devices.
• No environment for the reproduction of fungi, spores and bacteria, not damaged by insects.

It seems that everything is quite reasonable and understandable, but there are also negative properties: polystyrene is combustible and, when burned, releases substances hazardous to humans. This is true. But all burning materials give off life-threatening substances. And in order to make the foam less dangerous from the point of view fire safety, in recent decades, non-combustible additives have been added to it. As a result modern foam does not burn, but melts and is self-extinguishing, i.e. does not support combustion. Harmful substances they are released from the foam not when heated, but when melted, i.e. when the temperature reaches above 95 ° C. It should also be noted that the spontaneous combustion temperature of the foam is more than + 490 ° C (for wood + 280 ° C). If you do not allow fire, there will be no harmful emissions. In any case, the manufacturers say so. Believe them or not is a question, but no one has yet proven otherwise. And yet, foam is harmful or not, to use it or not, everyone decides for himself.

Insulation of walls with foam outside. Feedback is positive

Both the advantages and disadvantages of foam include its complete impermeability to air and steam. This means that for rooms and houses with foam insulation, a good system ventilation.

There is another negative quality of this material: its weak resistance to mechanical stress. Since air bubbles are enclosed in the thinnest polymer shell, it is easily damaged, dents, scratches, etc. appear on blocks or slabs in places of impacts. Therefore, if foam is used to insulate a foundation or facade, additional reinforcement and / or a protective coating is required.

• 1 Is it possible to insulate the bath with foam plastic?
• 2 Insulation of the foundation with foam
  • 2.1 Preparatory work for basement insulation with foam
  • 2.2 Installation of foam plates on the foundation
• 3
  • 3.1 Warming with foam plastic of a ground floor
  • 3.2 Insulation of the floor with foam plastic between the log
• 4 Thermal insulation of the bath roof with foam

Is it possible to insulate the bath with foam plastic?

From all that has been said, we can conclude: it is possible to use polystyrene as a heater, but it is extremely undesirable to use it in the steam room of a Russian bath and, especially, in a steam room of a Finnish sauna: temperature conditions there such that the thermal insulation may well heat up to 95 ° C and above, after which the foam will begin to lose its chemical stability.

In general, polystyrene is recommended to be used for thermal insulation of walls outside, or walls inside a room, but which do not go outside. This is due to the high thermal insulation capacity of the foam. If you put it on the wall from the inside, then outer wall will be almost completely insulated from heat, which will lead to a shift of the dew point into the wall. That is, condensation will form inside the wall. In freezing temperatures, it will freeze / thaw, which will lead to the rapid destruction of the material. Therefore, if the bath is insulated with foam, then only outside, or its internal partitions, but not from the side of the steam room.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath with polystyrene foam. It is better to insulate outside so that the dew point is in the insulation

The insulation of the walls outside with foam plastic itself has very good reviews: it is cooler in the room in summer, warmer in winter, the cost of maintaining a comfortable microclimate becomes less. Another plus: the room becomes noticeably quieter. But for normal health, a well-functioning ventilation system is important: excess moisture is not removed through the walls, and since many have plastic windows, then through the windows too. The only thing remains possible variant: effective ventilation.

If we talk about the bath, then there is no need to insulate a wood bath with foam: wood itself has excellent thermal insulation properties. But a bathhouse made of bricks or building blocks can be insulated with foam plastic.

Insulation of the foundation with foam

Since the foam has excellent thermal insulation properties and is not afraid of moisture, it is successfully used for thermal insulation of foundations. True, to protect it from mechanical stress, a protective partition is needed. It is made either from planks, a cheaper, but also much less durable option, or from brick (half-brick wall).

Insulation of the foundation with foam

For loam and clay soils, insulation of the foundation with foam plastic is practically perfect option... Due to the fact that the foam almost does not absorb water, it protects the foundation from winter and spring heaving: it simply does not allow water to seep and soak into the foundation material. It is not recommended to use polystyrene only if flooding often occurs at a high level of groundwater: water can seep under the layer of insulation, because it is almost impossible to achieve perfect tightness.

The scheme of foam insulation of the strip foundation

With a simple foundation geometry, polystyrene slabs are most often chosen. For middle band In Russia, their thickness should be at least 5cm. But for better thermal insulation in the corners of the foundation it is better to lay slabs 10 cm thick - in these places the heat loss is the most significant.

Preparatory work for warming the foundation with foam

Around the foundation, soil is removed to the depth of freezing (better - a little lower), the walls are cleaned and primed. The primer can be bought on the market, or you can make it yourself: you need melted bitumen, to which you need to add the same amount of diesel fuel or gasoline. Apply the resulting mixture to the foundation, wait until it dries (about 1 hour). A waterproofing layer must be applied to the primed foundation. It could be liquid rubber (brush applied) or roll bitumen materials (fused with a torch). Then proceed to the installation of the foam.

Installation of foam plates on the foundation

The bottom row of slabs is best placed on a rigid base. If you are just planning a foundation, you can make a special ledge on which the foam plates will rest. If the foundation is already standing, but there is no ledge, gravel bedding, on which the foundation itself stands, can serve as an emphasis.

You need to fix the foam plates either on bitumen-polymer mastic or polyurethane glue. But the glue should not contain acetone, gasoline and toluene, as they destroy polystyrene. The adhesive is applied pointwise or on the entire surface of the plate, but the joints must be glued. Some manufacturers make plates with an L-shaped lock (it also needs to be lubricated with adhesive), which makes the connection of the plates more tight and reliable. With such a connection, cold bridges are practically not formed and the tightness of all insulation becomes almost perfect.

Grooved foam (with a selected quarter) - avoids the appearance of cold bridges

Sometimes it is advised to lay the plates in two layers, displacing the seams relative to each other - in this way, losses through the joints of polystyrene plates are also reduced. But this method has opponents: they say that water will seep between the two layers of foam. Then the thermal insulation properties will deteriorate significantly. Such a probability, of course, exists, especially with vertical displacements of the soil (shrinkage), but how great it is is difficult to judge.

After the foam is laid around the entire perimeter to the desired thickness, you need to apply another layer on top waterproofing material (all the same bitumen roll materials or liquid rubber). Above, you can already arrange a protective brick wall. Sometimes boards are used. Geotextile is a good option. It also copes very well with the loads from the soil (it is laid under the asphalt when constructing autobahns). Other options are possible. The main thing is to protect the foam from the load of the soil.

The last stage of heat and waterproofing of the foundation (this is how the result is obtained if you use foam) is the device of the blind area. In general, the thermal insulation of the foundation with foam plastic is a rather troublesome business, but as a result, your foundation is protected from moisture, and you can not worry about heaving of the soil, and spend much less on heating.

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath with foam plastic

It is possible to insulate the floor in a bug with polystyrene, especially under the screed: the floor will be warm, and the foam is not afraid of moisture.

Foam insulation of the ground floor

For this, the soil is leveled, if it is loose, compacted and left for 30 days. Then 10 cm of medium-sized gravel is poured and compacted, 10 cm of sand on top, which is also compacted. A polyethylene film is laid on the sand, and foam sheets are already on it. The sheets are fastened with locks, and coated with the same bitumen-polymer mastic or polyurethane glue that does not contain solvents. A polyethylene film is again laid on top of the foam, on which a reinforcing mesh is laid. Base under concrete screed ready. The floor will be quite reliable and will withstand any loads if the thickness of the screed is at least 6 cm. In terms of the level of heat and moisture insulation, there are few equal to it.

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath with foam plastic

Insulation of the floor with foam plastic between the lag

If you insulate the floors between the logs, then it is advisable to cut the foam exactly to size, and blow out the inevitable cracks polyurethane foam: heat goes into the gap significantly. In this case, it is possible to use any type of foam, including granular, because boards will be laid on top, and the entire load will fall on them. To improve the waterproofing properties, a polyethylene film is also laid under the foam and on top of it. In a steam room, such an option for floor insulation can hardly be used, but in a locker room or dressing room it is quite.

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath with foam plastic

Thermal insulation of the bath roof with foam

It is possible to use polystyrene as insulation over the steam room only in the second layer: if a layer of clay is applied to the ceiling, expanded clay is poured or mineral wool is laid, the foam plastic can become the next layer of the cake. But in this situation, it is necessary to make the ceiling vapor protection very high quality, otherwise the vapor will "get stuck" in the lower layer of thermal insulation. Ventilation in the room should also work at "five" - \u200b\u200bto remove this very steam. So, if there are other options for insulating the roof of the bath, use them.

In order to clearly demonstrate how effective the foam is in comparison with other materials, we found the following data: foam with a thickness of 6 cm in terms of thermal insulation properties replaces:

• mineral wool 11cm thick;
• tree - 19.5cm;
• dry foam concrete - 50cm;
• brick wall 85cm;
• concrete 213.2cm.

Impressive. It is so? But for thermal insulation of a bath, foam plastic should be used either for external insulation of walls and facades or for insulation of premises without high temperatures. Please note that under the ceiling in the washing compartment, the temperature often reaches + 90 ° C, which is almost critical for foam.

The Russian bath is a tradition of the whole nation as a whole. It serves not only as a place for washing the body, but is also used as a place where a person rests with his soul, is cleared of various thoughts. And besides, a visit to a bath has a great effect on human health. In order for a visit to the bath to become as comfortable as possible, you need to carefully take care of the arrangement of the entire structure as a whole. Moreover, special attention must be paid to the stage of insulation and waterproofing. In this article, the conversation will focus on this type of insulation, as polystyrene. A guide to insulating a ceiling in a bath is here:.

Can I use Styrofoam?

In the event that it was decided to insulate the bath with foam, then you should apply given view insulation for external wall insulation. Only in this particular case, this type of insulation will work one hundred percent. But, it is worth considering the fact that this type of insulation almost completely loses its properties from moisture. This also affects the fact that the outer side of the building is insulated with foam plastic, although it is also often wet outside, therefore, you will need to take care of waterproofing the material. Read the instructions on how to insulate a wooden bath.

Polyfoam is provided on the construction market in several versions:

• rolls;
• plates;
• in liquid form.

Experts say that it is harmless to insulate the bath with foam plastic, but only if the foam is not used to insulate the steam room. When exposed to high temperatures, the material releases toxic substances that can cause negative influence on human health. Therefore, the foam can be used, but only as an external insulation or for insulation of the dressing room. Read an overview of the types of doors for wooden baths.

If we talk about polystyrene, then it is impossible to ignore such a type of Russian bath as a frame bath. At the moment, such buildings are practically not popular in Russia. Although, in fact, such baths are among the most affordable.

And besides, in order to build such a bath, it will be necessary to spend half the time than when constructing a bath made of brick or timber. It turns out that if the savings are not enough to build a bath, then this option will be ideal.

The most important point is that the frame type structure can be arranged with my own hands in just three to four days.

As for the insulation, it is performed at the stage of construction. To do this, it will be necessary to form a crate and a ceiling with walls. And the floors are actually prepared in the same way. Read the instructions on how to make insulation brick bath.

But initially it is necessary to insulate the surface of the walls and ceiling. It is easier to insulate the walls, because the insulation is mounted directly into the frame of the building. The only thing to consider when insulating walls is to use a thicker type of foam with a high level of density. Therefore, it will be necessary to calculate the structure itself.

Floor insulation with foam

Polyfoam is a material that has an incredible number of positive qualities, such as:

In addition, this type of insulation simply fits under any type of floor, regardless of whether it is a concrete screed or wooden floors.

Penoplex, like expanded polystyrene, is a very comfortable material for any type of construction. The main thing to know is that you should take into account the thickness of the material and its density. Different types of material should be used depending on the installation location.

Penoplex has excellent technical characteristics, it can even be used as an intermediate layer of insulation when constructing a foundation.

Ceiling insulation with foam

In order to insulate the ceiling surface with polystyrene foam, panels with a thickness of 20-40 millimeters should be used. In order to lay the material in a dense layer, it is necessary to form chamfers around the perimeter of each sheet. This material is an ideal material for thermal insulation of ceilings and roofs because of its low weight and high technical qualities.

Thermal insulation of a bath from foam blocks from the inside

As for the premises of the steam room, foam blocks are often used to insulate it. high density, because this type of material is less active than other insulation in this category and is more wear-resistant.
In order to insulate the walls of the bath with foam blocks from the inside, they should be laid between the wall panels, so that they fill most of the space inside, the distance from the beam to the material should be about 7-13 centimeters.

Attention! In any case, in order to do everything right, you will need to carefully waterproof all surfaces.

Penofol insulation

This type of insulation is suitable for insulating a room from steam and moisture. It is also often used to insulate a room.

You also need to know the fact that such material is easy to use and install. Moreover, it has a high level of wear resistance and reliability. Also, according to experts, penofol is a very affordable material.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

In the event that the owner of the building intends to use foamed polyurethane as a material for insulation, you need to know that the installation of this type of insulation can only be done by means of metal brackets, nails or self-tapping screws.

Video

According to experienced specialists, the quality of the work of the bath suburban area directly depends on the amount of money invested in its device. Moreover, the stage with the insulation of the building has almost the most important role.

It goes without saying that you can constantly argue about how and with what material to insulate the bath. One thing is clear, if a decision was made to insulate it, then it is imperative to start insulating the bath outside, this is the only way to achieve maximum comfort.

A bathhouse is such a room in which even one percent of the required temperature disappears noticeably, so ceiling insulation here becomes a priority.

Polyfoam as a heater option

With any type of room insulation, many now prefer foam. This the material is appreciated for:

• ease;
• compactness;
• ease of installation;
• low cost.

How effective is such insulation and in what cases should only foam be used?

Insulation of the ceiling of the bath with foam and nothing more for you necessary if:

1. The ceilings of the room are very low and making them even lower is inappropriate and illogical.
2. In rooms where you need a material that does not absorb moisture.

The effectiveness of foam insulation - a fact proven by time. Heat saving increases significantly, no condensation accumulation is observed, there is no mold, insects do not start.

Pros and cons of the material

Styrofoam - nothing more than foamed polymers, which formed capsules with gas at high temperatures and retained their shape when cooled.

As a substance formed by gas, foam possesses a number of excellent properties for insulation:

• ease;
• moisture resistance;
• durability;
• soundproofing;
• not subject to shrinkage.

In addition, in the price lists, polystyrene is consistently ranked among the cheapest building materials. For economical and fast insulation, just what you need.

However, don't get too fascinated and think that Styrofoam is perfect. Of course, it also has disadvantages, but to pay or not to pay attention to the shortcomings of this insulation - the choice is yours.

The disadvantages of foam are:

• flammability (due to the nature of its formation - with the help of gas);
• not too long service life, which may be further reduced due to violation of installation technology;
• unsuitable for insulating wooden rooms. This is practically possible, but only if there is good ventilation;
• fragility;
• the release of toxic substances during combustion that can cause paralysis of the respiratory tract;
• the poor quality of some brands of foam produced in artisanal conditions.

Are Styrofoam and Styrofoam the same thing?

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of the bath with foam can be somewhat diversified, while maintaining the fidelity of the choice to this particular material.

You could not help but hear about an improved form of foam - expanded polystyrene. In fact, these are the same plates of capsules filled with a gaseous substance, only stronger, stronger, better.

Let's analyze quality of expanded polystyrene:

• it is not as fragile as polystyrene, even with not very careful transportation, the corners of the polystyrene foam plate remain intact;
• this material does not ignite as quickly as foam filled with highly flammable gas;
• the operational life of expanded polystyrene - from 15 to 35 years, foam - from 10 to 20.

As for the price, expanded polystyrene is only 5-10% more expensive than its "big brother".

Technology

No matter how good the material is, non-compliance with the accuracy of the installation technology can, over time, negatively affect the quality of heat conservation.

Therefore, having prepared required material, read the step-by-step instructions carefully.

Frame installation

Needed:

• foam sheets;
• metal profile or wooden bars 50x50;
• vapor barrier film.

Stages:

1. Clean the ceiling from dirt and dust, eliminate irregularities, if any. Treat the surface with an antiseptic.
2. Remove the electrical wiring. To do this, use a special protective corrugation.
3. Attach beams or a profile to the ceiling at a distance of 50 cm. Make sure that the shape of the attached beams takes on the appearance of a large cage, each cell of which should correspond in size to the foam sheet.
4. Install the foam with dowels or glue.
5. Treat joints and gaps with polyurethane foam.
6. Attach a vapor barrier to the insulation.
7. In conclusion, engage in the installation of drywall, wood or other material that matches the overall interior.

Adhesive mounting option

Needed:

• foam sheets in an amount corresponding to the total area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling;
• adhesive composition.

Stages:

1. Clean the ceiling, treat it with an antiseptic and prime it for a better adhesive bond and surface.
2. Prepare an adhesive or use a ready-made one.
3. Apply the adhesive to the foam sheet (in continuous lines along the edge and with a dash in the center of the board). Press the Styrofoam sheet as tight as possible to the ceiling and hold for a few seconds.
4. If you insulate the ceiling with expanded polystyrene, then all the sheets should be prepared in advance: scratch with an iron brush on the working side (the one on which you will apply the adhesive).
5. Start glueing the sheets from the middle of the ceiling in a checkerboard pattern.
6. For greater reliability, the foam sheets can be additionally attached with dowels after the glue dries.
7. On top of the foam, glue the armset and putty.

So is it worth it to insulate with foam?

And yet, there is an opinion among experts that all the disadvantages of polystyrene are more far-fetched than real.

The popularity of foam sheets among developers is second to none. And if we talk about warming as a low-cost, simple and fast process, then you can hardly find material better than it.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of a bath with polystyrene foam can be carried out without problems by a non-professional, a person who first took up repair work.

But, when buying foam boards, you need to be very careful, so as not to bring a pile of small balls instead of whole sheets. Use products from trusted manufacturers only.

Polyfoam began to be produced not so long ago, in the 50s of the XX century. It consists of air bubbles enclosed in the thinnest polystyrene shell. Since most of the material is air (up to 98%, depending on the brand), the foam has excellent thermal insulation characteristics and therefore is often used as insulation.

Its popularity is due not only to its thermal insulation properties. There is also a whole list of positive qualities:

• Durability - up to 50 years under normal conditions and up to 20 years under severe conditions (with large temperature changes);
• Hydrophobicity. Polyfoam absorbs up to 0.2% moisture per day, i.e. we can say that it does not absorb it at all.
• Biological neutrality and stability. The temperature regime at which the material remains stable (does not collapse and does not emit any substances) is from -60 o C to +95 o C. The safety of foam is confirmed by the fact that products made from it are used in food packaging and are used in children's toys. These are two industries in which the safety of the materials used has received great attention lately. And no one ever spoke about the dangers of Styrofoam.
• Low price. However, very cheap offers should be treated with caution: products must have certificates. Abnormal materials can be hazardous.
• Styrofoam is easy to work with. It is lightweight, easy to cut, easy to assemble, does not require any additional protective equipment or devices.
• No environment for the reproduction of fungi, spores and bacteria, not damaged by insects.

It seems that everything is quite reasonable and understandable, but there are also negative properties: foam plastic is flammable and, when burned, releases substances dangerous to humans. This is true. But all burning materials give off life-threatening substances. And in order to make the foam less dangerous from the point of view of fire safety, non-combustible additives have been added to it in recent decades. As a result, modern foam does not burn, but melts and is self-extinguishing, i.e. does not support combustion. Harmful substances from the foam are released not when heated, but when melted, i.e. when the temperature reaches above 95 ° C. It should also be noted that the spontaneous combustion temperature of the foam is more than +490 ° C (for wood +280 ° C). If you do not allow fire, there will be no harmful emissions. In any case, the manufacturers say so. Believe them or not is a question, but no one has yet proven otherwise. And yet, foam is harmful or not, to use it or not, everyone decides for himself.

Both the advantages and disadvantages of foam include its complete impermeability to air and steam. This means that a good ventilation system must be developed for rooms and houses with foam insulation.

There is another negative quality of this material: its weak resistance to mechanical stress. Since air bubbles are enclosed in the thinnest polymer shell, it is easily damaged, dents, scratches, etc. appear on blocks or slabs in places of impacts. Therefore, if foam is used to insulate a foundation or facade, additional reinforcement and / or a protective coating is required.

From all that has been said, we can conclude that it is possible to use polystyrene as insulation, but in the steam room of a Russian bath and, even more so, in a steam room of a Finnish sauna, it is extremely undesirable to use it: the temperature conditions there are such that the thermal insulation may well heat up to 95 ° C and above, after which the foam will begin to lose its chemical stability.

In general, polystyrene is recommended to be used for thermal insulation of walls outside, or walls inside a room, but which do not go outside. This is due to the high thermal insulation capacity of the foam. If it is laid on the wall from the inside, then the outer wall will be almost completely insulated from heat, which will lead to displacement into the wall. That is, condensation will form inside the wall. In freezing conditions, it will freeze / thaw, which will lead to the rapid destruction of the material. Therefore, if the bath is insulated with polystyrene foam, then only outside, or its internal partitions, but not from the side of the steam room.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath with polystyrene foam. It is better to insulate outside so that the dew point is in the insulation

The insulation of the walls outside with foam plastic itself has very good reviews: it is cooler in the room in summer, warmer in winter, the cost of maintaining a comfortable microclimate becomes less. Another plus: the room becomes noticeably quieter. But for normal health, a well-functioning ventilation system is important: excess moisture is not removed through the walls, and since many have plastic windows, through the windows too. The only option remains:.

If we talk about the bath, then there is no need to insulate a wood bath with foam: wood itself has excellent heat-insulating properties. But a brick bath or it is very possible to insulate it with foam plastic.

Since the foam has excellent thermal insulation properties and is not afraid of moisture, it is successfully used for thermal insulation of foundations. True, to protect it from mechanical stress, a protective partition is needed. It is made either from planks, a cheaper, but also much less durable option, or from brick (half-brick wall).

For loam and clay soils, insulation of the foundation with foam is almost an ideal option. Due to the fact that the foam almost does not absorb water, it protects the foundation from winter and spring heaving: it simply does not allow water to seep and be absorbed into the foundation material. It is not recommended to use polystyrene only if flooding often occurs at a high level of groundwater: water can seep under the layer of insulation, because it is almost impossible to achieve perfect tightness.

With a simple foundation geometry, foam slabs are most often chosen. For central Russia, their thickness should be at least 5 cm. But for better thermal insulation in the corners of the foundation, it is better to lay 10 cm thick slabs - in these places the heat loss is the most significant.

Preparatory work for warming the foundation with foam

Around the foundation, soil is removed to the depth of freezing (better - a little lower), the walls are cleaned and primed. The primer can be bought on the market, or you can make it yourself: you need molten bitumen, to which you need to add the same amount of diesel fuel or gasoline. Apply the resulting mixture to the foundation, wait for it to dry (about 1 hour). A waterproofing layer must be applied to the primed foundation. It can be liquid rubber (applied with a brush) or rolled bitumen materials (fused using a torch). Then proceed to the installation of foam.

Installation of foam plates on the foundation

The bottom row of slabs is best placed on a rigid base. If you are just planning a foundation, you can make a special ledge on which the foam plates will rest. If the foundation is already standing, but there is no ledge, gravel bedding, on which the foundation itself stands, can serve as an emphasis.

You need to fix the foam plates either on bitumen-polymer mastic or polyurethane glue. But the glue should not contain acetone, gasoline and toluene, as they destroy polystyrene. The adhesive is applied pointwise or on the entire surface of the plate, but the joints must be glued. Some manufacturers make plates with an L-shaped lock (it also needs to be lubricated with adhesive), which makes the connection of the plates more tight and reliable. With such a connection, cold bridges are practically not formed and the tightness of all insulation becomes almost perfect.

Grooved foam (with a selected quarter) - avoids the appearance of cold bridges

Sometimes it is advised to lay the plates in two layers, displacing the seams relative to each other - in this way, losses through the joints of polystyrene plates are also reduced. But this method has opponents: they say that water will seep between the two layers of foam. Then the thermal insulation properties will deteriorate significantly. Such a probability, of course, exists, especially with vertical displacements of the soil (shrinkage), but how great it is is difficult to judge.

After the foam is laid around the entire perimeter to the desired thickness, you need to apply another layer of waterproofing material on top (all the same bituminous roll materials or liquid rubber). Above, you can already arrange a protective brick wall. Sometimes boards are used. Geotextile is a good option. It also copes very well with the loads from the soil (it is laid under the asphalt when constructing autobahns). Other options are possible. The main thing is to protect the foam from the load of the soil.

The last stage of thermal-waterproofing of the foundation (this is how it turns out as a result, if you use foam) - the device of the blind area. In general, thermal insulation of the foundation with foam plastic is quite troublesome, but as a result, your foundation is protected from moisture, and you do not have to worry about soil heaving, and spend much less on heating.

It is possible to insulate the floor in a bug with polystyrene, especially under the screed: the floor will be warm, and the foam is not afraid of moisture.

Foam insulation of the ground floor

For this, the soil is leveled, if it is loose, compacted and left for 30 days. Then 10 cm of medium-sized gravel is poured and compacted, 10 cm of sand on top, which is also compacted. A polyethylene film is laid on the sand, and foam sheets are already on it. The sheets are fastened with locks, and coated with the same bitumen-polymer mastic or polyurethane glue that does not contain solvents. A polyethylene film is again laid on top of the foam, on which the reinforcing mesh is laid. The base for the concrete screed is ready. The floor will be quite reliable and will withstand any loads if the thickness of the screed is at least 6 cm. In terms of the level of heat and moisture insulation, there are few equal to it.

Insulation of the floor with foam plastic between the lag

If you insulate the floors between the logs, then it is advisable to cut the foam exactly to size, and blow out the inevitable cracks with polyurethane foam: heat goes into the cracks significantly. In this case, it is possible to use any type of foam, including granular, because boards will be laid on top, and the entire load will fall on them. To improve the waterproofing properties, a polyethylene film is also laid under the foam and on top of it. In a steam room, such an option for floor insulation can hardly be used, but in a locker room or dressing room - quite.

Thermal insulation of the bath roof with foam

It is possible to use polystyrene as insulation over the steam room only in the second layer: if a layer of clay is applied to the ceiling, expanded clay is poured or mineral wool is laid, the foam plastic can become the next layer of the cake. But in this situation, the ceiling needs to be made of very high quality, otherwise the steam will "get stuck" in the lower layer of thermal insulation. Ventilation in the room should also work at "five" - \u200b\u200bto remove this very steam. So, if there are other options for insulating the roof of the bath, use them.

In order to clearly demonstrate how effective the foam is in comparison with other materials, we found the following data: foam with a thickness of 6 cm in terms of thermal insulation properties replaces:

• mineral wool 11cm thick;
• tree - 19.5cm;
• dry foam concrete - 50cm;
• brick wall 85cm;
• concrete 213.2cm.

Impressive. It is so? But for thermal insulation of a bath, foam plastic should be used either for external insulation of walls and facades or for insulation of premises without high temperatures. Please note that under the ceiling in the washing compartment, the temperature often reaches + 90 ° C, which is almost critical for foam.