DIY door hinges. Hanging loop from scrap materials Installing overhead loops

The installation of hinges on the door is an important stage in the installation of the door leaf and frame. On the one hand, this process does not cause any problems, since it boils down to installing the hinges themselves and securing the door leaf, and on the other hand, it takes time, as well as patience and the availability of tools necessary for installation. Before installing door hinges do it yourself, think about whether you can achieve high quality work. It is from the correct installation of the hinges and doors on them that their further operation largely depends.

Varieties of door hinges

The peculiarities of installing certain loops will depend on their type. Hinges are classified by structural and fastening features into three main types:

• Overhead. Consist of two identical partsfastened together. One piece is fixed to door framethe other is on the canvas. There are also ones that represent a single whole. Installation of overhead hinges does not require special skills and is the most simple and affordable for everyone.

Mortise. They differ in a more complex and long-term installation, which requires special equipment and skills to work with it. The complexity of installation is compensated by the widespread use of mortise hinges, as well as their reliability and durability.

• Screw-in. Fastened with threaded pins - they are screwed into the door leaf, thereby securely fixing on its surface. They are usually installed in the amount of three pieces per door, differ in the number of fixing pins.

There are also hidden door hinges, which are very difficult to install, but guarantee excellent security and safety of the home.

Preparing the necessary tools

The installation process is unthinkable without a set of certain materials, tools and equipment required for the job. So, before starting the installation, you should prepare:

• door hinges.
• screwdriver and a set of screws.
• pencil (required for marking).
• a set of wooden wedges for leveling the structure.
• building level.
• hammer and chisel.

After you have verified that the working area there are tools and materials listed above, you can start installation door hinges.

Correct marking

Installation of door hinges by eye is unacceptable - even a small error can lead to distortion and deformation of the door leaf and structure. The markup is done with a pencil as follows:

1. Attach the hinges to the places of the intended installation. The hinges should be placed with a minimum offset from the edges of the door (top and bottom) of 20 centimeters.
2. Circle the hinges attached to the door end with a pencil, then set them aside.
3. Use a chisel and hammer to make indentations in the marked areas as needed to install the mortise hinges.

Pay close attention to the thickness of the groove. If it exceeds the thickness of the hinge, when closing the door will rest against the box. Ultimately, this will lead to deformation of the door leaf and the appearance of problems with opening and closing the door.

Before installing the hinges on the door, you need to mark the door frame. This operation will require skill and patience in order to correctly determine the location of the hinge:

1. Place the canvas in the box and fix it with wooden wedges as it should be in the installed state. To level the door leaf, use the building level.
2. After aligning the curtain, mark on the box where the door hinges touch the door.
3. As with door leaf, using a hammer and a chisel, make the required number of grooves for the installation of door hinges.

The alignment of the door leaf in the frame should be carried out not only vertically, but also horizontally. Unfaithful vertical installation will cause the door to open spontaneously, and the horizontal one will make it difficult to close.

Correct installation of door hinges

Installation of cut-in hinges

Inserting hinges into an interior door is the most difficult procedure of all possible, therefore, having mastered it, you can easily install overhead and screwed hinges. The installation procedure for mortise hinges is as follows:

1. Sink the hinges into the recesses on the door made in the previous steps.
2. Use a screwdriver to make holes in the wood for the hinges.
3. Take screws of suitable diameter and use a screwdriver to fix the hinges on the door leaf with their help.
4. Install the door in doorway and secure it with wooden wedges.
5. Sink the hinges into the grooves made, then repeat steps 2-3.

During installation, make sure that the door is level in the box and does not move during installation. Before you hang the door on the hinges, carefully align it in the doorway using a building level (as when marking).

Installation of overhead hinges

This is the easiest-to-use method, which does not require insertion and preliminary preparation of the door and door frame (without creating recesses). Simplicity lies in the design of such hinges, and in the installation features - you do not need to think about how to weld the hinges and fix them in the socket as firmly as possible.

Installation is similar to the installation of mortise hinges, however, the parts are not installed in special recesses, but are simply screwed to the end of the door and frame with screws. As in the previous case, it is important to maintain the correct position of the door leaf in space throughout the installation of the hinges.

Installation of screw hinges

Installation of screw-in door hinges will not cause problems even for a novice master. Typically, installation comes down to three simple steps:

1. Before putting the hinges on the door, it is necessary to drill holes in the door leaf according to a special template, which usually comes with the hinges. The hinge slots are drilled both on the door and on the frame, at the same level.

1. The next step is to put the hinges in place. One half is placed on the door, the other on the box.
2. The final stage is "stringing" the door hinges onto the box hinges. This completes the simple installation of the hinges.

After installation is complete, it is recommended to prevent squeaking when opening and closing doors and to extend the life of the door hinges. If you still have questions about correct installation door hinges, you can get additional information from the video (and also consolidate the information already obtained from this article), which can be found and reproduced below.

Every home craftsman should know how to install door hinges. The high-quality functioning of interior structures directly depends on the correct installation of these small parts.

Many of us, choosing, do not even think about how important the hinges are for such designs. We are sure that the design of the door leaf and the reliability of the purchased frame are much more important, and everything else is little things. This approach to door selection is wrong. A canvas without properly selected canopies will be just a blank. There is no sense in it. Only after the hinges are installed does the door turn into a functional structure.

Hinges for interior doors

There are five types door awningswhich are most commonly used these days. Before you install the hinges on the interior door with your own hands, you need to understand their design. The specificity of the latter determines the features of the installation of awnings. Below are the common types of hinges:

1. Card (otherwise they are called straight). The simplest canopies are equipped with special plates on the sides.
2. Corner. In fact, they represent the same card loops, from which they differ only in the shape of the (angular) plates. Such awnings are usually placed on the interior doors of a pendulum structure.
3. Hidden. Hinges for high-value products. Hidden awnings have a special hinge that is recessed into the door leaf.
4. Screw-in. Such products do not have records. Instead, there are pins on the pivot shaft. Roll-in awnings are ideal for lightweight canvases.
5. Italian. Features a specially designed hinge. Such hinges are usually mounted on European-made doors.

Canopies for interior structures are also divided into universal, left and right-sided. The first of these can be placed on either side of the canvas. According to the method of installation, the hinges are divided into mortise (they form a single surface with the door, since they are mounted in recesses prepared in advance), overhead (placed directly on top of the door structure) and screw-in (they are screwed in by means of pins).

We begin to figure out how to correctly install the various types of attachments of interest to us. The very first step is to mark the door leaf. You need to step back 0.2 m from the top and bottom of the door and mark the starting lines (use a simple pencil). After that, apply the hinges to the completed basting (be sure to take into account the direction in which the door structure will open), circle their outline. And then put the appropriate marks at the attachment points.

Fitting and installing loops

At this stage, you should carefully examine the condition of the canvas. The areas where the awnings will be installed should be free of any defects, in particular knots or cracks. If, during installation, you begin to screw fasteners into problem areas, there is a high probability that the door will crack or warp. If defects are found in the marked area, re-markup so that the attachment points of the canopies are a couple of centimeters away from cracks and knots.

Now you can assemble the door block and mark the hinge mounting points on the box. In this case, it is necessary to maintain small (literally 2-3 mm) gaps between the door leaf and the door frame. This procedure is easiest to perform before the door structure is mounted in its proper place. If you have already installed the door, fix it (as tightly as possible) with wooden wedges in the opening.

When the mass of the interior door is large enough, you need to hang it not on two, but on three hinges. In this case, the latter should be cut not in the middle of the canvas, as many believe, but with some displacement towards the canopy located on top. In this case, you will be able to properly adjust the load that affects the used fittings. The third hinge must be placed if the door is larger than the standard dimensions (50 mm thick, 200 cm high, 80 cm wide).

Card-type hinges (corner and simple) are very easy to install. Moreover, this operation can be performed in two ways. The first is suitable for awnings, two parts of which are characterized by in different shapes... Hinges of this type go one into one when closing the interior door. Due to this, their installation is carried out directly on the surface of the canvas.

Card-type hinge

You will also need an electric drill to install these awnings. There are two nuances here:

1. If the hinges are put on a heavy door, it is imperative to drill holes in it in advance, only after that you can start screwing in the screws.
2. It is allowed to screw in the hardware immediately, without pre-making holes for them, if you are dealing with lightweight structures made of plastic or wood fiber material.

The second installation method assumes that you slightly sink the awnings into the door. In this case, when closing, they will never lock the canvas (when using the first installation method, this situation occurs quite often).

It is recommended to make grooves for the hinges with a regular chisel. Just cut off the material on the tray and on the door itself with it to the depth of the mounted canopy. And then attach the latter to the site of its installation and fix it with fasteners. Corner products should be mounted and fixed in the same way. Place one half of them on the end of the door leaf, the second on the piece.

Modern models of interior doors, as a rule, are equipped with better and more innovative fittings. Such structures must be mounted on hidden awnings. Such hinges are much easier to care for, they rarely need repair, as they have a high level of operational reliability. Yes, and purely externally installed hidden canopy makes the appearance of the door more attractive, without burdening the canvas with well-visible hinged elements.

Hidden loop example

For correct installation hidden hinges, an electric router is required. Without it, the operation cannot be performed on its own. The installation itself, in the presence of such a tool, is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Mark the attachment points of the awnings according to the algorithm described in detail above.
2. Using an electric milling cutter, cut out the grooves for the hinges. And then you additionally process these areas with a chisel.
3. Disassemble the hidden canopy into two parts. There is a very important point here. The hinge elements have different geometric dimensions. You need to install a part with large parameters in the door frame, and a smaller part in the canvas. And nothing else!
4. Secure most of the mechanism with self-tapping screws.
5. Connect the mounted elements into a single structure and, with some effort, but very carefully, tighten the fastening screw.

Screw-in awnings are most often used to install pretend interroom structures. It is very easy to distinguish such loops from ordinary card loops. The former have special threaded pins on the sides. It is they who allow the installation of awnings. Let us repeat that screwed-in products cannot be placed on doors with a large weight. Italian awnings are mounted in the same way as standard card awnings. But with one peculiarity. They are placed below and above the door leaf, and not at the ends, as is the case with card products. We hope that now you can, without the help of specialists, install hinges of any type on your interior door structures... Good luck!

Who among us has not witnessed how an unlucky customer in a household goods store is painfully trying to figure out which hinges he needs - left or right?

So I, when I nevertheless decided to replace the old and not very nice hinges at the doors to the bathroom and toilet, did not immediately remember how to distinguish them. But the matter is, in general, simple. Detachable half-hinged hinges (which are exactly what I needed) have a fixed rod in the bottom card (this part of the hinge is installed on the door frame), and the top of the hinge, which is attached to the door leaf (top card), has a cap-shaped hinge that is put on the rod.

It is the half-hinge hinges that are left and right. The left ones are for doors that open to the left, and the right ones are for doors that open to the right. Determining which loops are required is not at all difficult. To do this, you need to stand in front of the door so that you have to open it towards yourself. If the loops are on the right, they are called right loops. And if on the left, then, respectively, on the left.

However, I needed both, since the bathroom and toilet doors opened in different directions.

There was, however, a doubt: shouldn't the loops be changed to one-piece ones? Now on sale there are mainly such. But they have a number of disadvantages compared to semi-hinged ones. Firstly, it is more difficult to hang the door alone on one-piece hinges, since you have to keep it suspended and at the same time screw in the fastening screws. Secondly, the height adjustment of the door leaf becomes much more complicated. So I settled on the new split hinges.

Operating procedure

First you need to remove the door from its hinges. You can do this without outside help if you use a bar with a section of 40 * 40 mm and trim a not very thick board. The bar is placed in front of open door as a support, and the board is slipped under the door leaf, placed on a block and used as a lever.

This allows you to easily remove the door without overloading your back. Then unscrew the old loops. It's good if the splines of the screws are not damaged and not too smeared with paint, as is often the case. Otherwise, you must first clear them. In addition, the tip of the screwdriver must match exactly the slot of the screw.

If you can't unscrew the screws "at a snap", you can try to wet them with kerosene (so that it seeps onto the thread) or attach a heated soldering iron to the screw head. Sometimes it is possible to move the screw from its place by turning it slightly clockwise first (in the direction of twisting). Motorists can use a so-called impact screwdriver. If all of the above methods did not help, then the old screws will have to be drilled out.

If the old hinge was too recessed into the door frame, you can use an insert cut from hardboard in the shape of a socket. Having previously aligned the old socket in the door frame with a chisel, install an insert in it and screw the hinge card to the door frame with long self-tapping screws.

To facilitate the installation of the door leaf, the rod at the lower hinge can be shortened slightly. To do this, saw off some part of it with an ordinary hacksaw for metal and with a file, chamfer at the end of the rod after sawing off.

The next operation is to install the upper hinge parts (upper cards) on the door leaf. Perhaps, in this case, too, you will first have to slightly correct the nests on the edge of the door leaf and only then fasten the hinges. After the cards are screwed on, it remains to hang the door leaf in place. At the same time, it is raised above the floor and held using a lever that was used to remove the door.

The door is installed, but there is another aspect of the work being done - the lubrication of the hinges. There are different lubricants for this. For example, a proven old-fashioned lead from a soft pencil. It is necessary to slightly raise the door leaf and push the lead

into the gap between the rubbing surfaces of the hinge, and then lower the canvas and open and close the door several times. The graphite will crumble into powder and eliminate squeaking like any other lubricant.

But there is also modern materialsborrowed from the arsenal of motorists. These are aerosol semi-synthetic lubricants with a high degree of adhesion, designed for processing parts in hard-to-reach places... For example, HHS 2000 grease. These compounds easily penetrate into the smallest gaps of the mechanism and form a sticky film that is resistant to high loads (pressure or vibration).

In addition, they provide the hinge rod reliable protection from corrosion. Of course, this is not very relevant for a city apartment, but for country house - very important. By the way, almost all modern hinges are sold treated with just such lubricants.

How to change door hinges - work progress

1. The hinges have served for many years and are outdated.
2. Contemporary left and right hinges.
3. A simple lever made of scrap materials will help to remove the door.
4. It is sometimes very difficult to unscrew old hinges.
5. The old socket in the door frame must be adjusted to the dimensions of the new hinge.
6. If the socket is chosen too deep, you can install a hardboard insert into it.
7. The hinge card is screwed to the door frame with long self-tapping screws.
8. To facilitate the installation of the door leaf, the rod at the lower hinge can be shortened slightly.
9. After sawing off the rod with a file, the chamfer is removed.
10. If necessary, the slots on the edge of the door leaf also need to be corrected.
11. The upper hinge card is screwed to the door leaf.
12. The door leaf has taken its place.

Replacing door hinges - photo

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High-quality fittings are an important condition for long-term and stable operation of the door system. You just need to purchase loops suitable size... If these are not available, homemade hinges will come to the rescue, which are made independently, taking into account the parameters and weight of the sash. To do this, prepare the tool and materials.

Self-made buttonhole

Why choose homemade ones?

Many people refuse from fittings made in a production environment in favor of homemade fittings for several reasons. Such products:

• Withstand significant loads. What's relevant for garage doors and massive doors;
• Are of the required size. If the parameters manufactured in industrial conditions are standardized, then in their own manufacture they choose the size that is required;
• They have a high level of reliability, since the fittings manufactured for themselves have a high level of strength compared to those produced in the factory. You can always choose a material with high mechanical properties and greater thickness.

We make loops with our own hands

The loop making process is simple. In order for the fittings to be of high quality, you must be able to do it yourself different kinds works.

Cooking tools and materials

Prepare the right tools, materials and equipment for making high-quality accessories at home. You must have the following tools and equipment available:

• Roulette or other measuring tool... Sometimes you can get by with the usual ruler, but in this case it must fully comply with regulatory requirements;
• A marker that writes on metal. Instead of a marker, you can take chalk;
• A hacksaw with a blade for metal. Those who know how to use a grinder can use this equipment, if available;
• File;
• Hammer;
• Welding machine with suitable technical characteristics, as well as personal protective equipment that are required to perform welding.

Cooking the tool

Also prepare:

• Metal plate 2-3 mm thick;
• Pipe section;
• Steel bar. Its diameter is consistent with the inner diameter of the pipe section. Select the rod so that it fits inside the pipe with a slight interference fit. It is better to refuse a rod whose size is smaller than the internal dimensions of the pipe.

When choosing a material, pay attention to its characteristics. The plate, pipes and bar must be able to withstand the applied service load.

Manufacturing sequence

Initially, two pieces of pipe are sawn off. The total length depends on the dimensions of the door leaf. So if it is 11 cm, you need to prepare the first piece of pipe 5 cm long. Before cutting the pipe to the required size, carefully mark the markings. You will also need a piece of pipe, the length of which is 1 cm longer, i.e. - 6 cm. As a result, the total length is 11 cm.

After sawing off, burrs are often formed on the metal surface, which can be injured during installation works... To prevent this from happening, remove the defects with a file. Wear gloves to avoid injuring your hands. Perform processing on both sides.

Once the tubes are ready, the rod is prepared. Its length is equal to the total length of the pipes, that is, 11 cm. To do this, markings are applied to the surface of the bar and sawed off. The cutting line should be perpendicular to the nominal axis of the bar.

Having cut the bar and pipes to size, they are connected together. For this, a bar is pressed into the sleeve. Once the sleeves are in place, the plates are prepared. Their size is consistent with the dimensions of the door and the dimensions of the hinges produced. There should be two such plates, and they have the same length. On this preparatory stage ends. Moving on to welding.

After making sure that the bar has taken the desired position inside the sleeve, the ends of both tubes are welded. This eliminates the displacement of the rod inside the pipe during operation.

Then the plates are welded to the sleeves. They are placed perpendicular to the conditional axis of the sleeves. To do this, first grab the plates, and then, after making sure of their correct spatial arrangement, they are finally welded.

Decorating

To make the made hinges look beautiful, they are painted or galvanized. Both of these options allow you to give the surface a beautiful appearance, and also protect from external negative influences. For this, the thickness of the applied coating must be sufficient for the specific operating conditions.

After decorating, the hardware looks almost the same as the one sold by official manufacturers. In this case, you can always choose the color of the product that is required. So if you can find fittings on sale, as a rule, in black, then self-made hinges can be painted in any suitable color.

Finished fittings

Installation of hinges

After the hardware is completely ready, it is installed. For this, one plate is screwed to the sash, the second to the door leaf. Fastening is done so that the plate with the upper sleeve is screwed to the door, and the second part to the vertical frame of the box. During the installation process, the manufactured loop is assembled into a complete product.

Installation of hinges

To eliminate sticking during operation, a lubricant is added between the mating surfaces. The amount of lubricant should be sufficient to make the pin easily rotate inside the sleeves.

Installed fittings

Other options

Not everyone can boast of having welding machine at home. For others, such products turn out to be an expensive option, which is a pity to install on a light door. In this case, the necessary accessories are made from scrap materials. Which option is suitable depends on the size of the sash door and the material of the door leaf.

To do this, prepare the conveyor belt and metal plates. Their thickness can be relatively small. You can take metal, the thickness of which is not much greater than the thickness of the sheets that are used in the manufacture cans... To fasten the hardware elements, prepare nails, the length of which is 4 - 5 cm.

Installation of hinges is carried out by exposing the canvas in the doorway. Leave one centimeter between the upright post and the door leaf on the side where the hinges will be located. Having fixed the position of the door, the hinges are nailed. To do this, first place a conveyor belt, and on top - metal plates. In this case, the conveyor belt plays the role of a flexible element that ensures the opening and closing of the sash.

Such fittings are suitable for light doors that are installed at the entrance to a chicken coop or a place where rabbits are kept. Their distinctive feature there is no squeak during operation, as well as the possibility of operation without lubrication.

Thus, everyone can make loops on their own. Such fittings are suitable for garage doors and entrance doors... If you approach the manufacturing process responsibly, you can make your home a real fortress. High-quality and durable fittings withstand external stress, and at the same time have an aesthetically pleasing appearance.

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In the process of making an aircraft model, you need to buy or make yourself the loops for hanging the rudders. The easiest way is to buy from a store if the store is around the corner. But what if there is nowhere to buy? Here is a modeler who is not a modeler if he cannot make simple and reliable loops for his aircraft on his own! Here I will give a few examples of making hinges for handlebars.

1. Homemade, very durable hinges:

You will need 0.3mm thick tin from Beck ^ s cans and a paper clip d \u003d 1mm. All we need is to cut the blanks to the sizes we need.

and assemble the structure as in the photo. It is better to make several holes in the cheeks of the loops, so that the homemade loops for the aircraft model hold better.

But these were on my 1.5 meter pilotage:

2. Homemade dropper loops:

Newer drippers, with thin, clear tubes, are best. We just cut off the segment we need, halve it lengthwise and glue it in. Great for light foam and small balsa models.

Such loops have little backlash, but as practice has shown, this is not critical and does not at all affect the flight performance of the aircraft model. These hinges cannot be used for winter flights, they become tanned, increase the load on the servo and can simply break!