How to fix a gutter. Do-it-yourself installation of a gutter system - installation of gutters for the roof. Stages of installation of a drainage system

One of the important stages in the construction of a private house is the arrangement of a reliable drainage system, which is designed for the timely collection and removal of precipitation from pitched roof, additional protection of wall structures and foundations from the negative effects of moisture.

To ensure a long service life of the finished structure, correct installation drainage system provides for compliance with the technology of work and a number of important recommendations that will allow you to create a full-fledged functional system for removing precipitation.

Types of drainage systems

Modern drainage systems for a private house or bath can be classified according to the following criteria: cross section, production method and material.

Gutters are factory and homemade:

• Factory models are produced in compliance with the established parameters, standards and requirements that apply to structures of this type. In addition, it is possible to assemble the finished system from structural elements various manufacturers.
• Homemade models can be made with your own hands from available materials according to individual schemes. In addition to the availability of manufacturing, such systems are cheap and easy to install. Significant disadvantages include the difficulty of docking home-made and factory elements in the event that it is necessary to replace a worn part with a new one.

The main elements of drainage systems can have different shape sections:

• Rectangular.
• Round.
• Square.

The cross section determines the efficiency of the system operation in certain climatic conditions. round shapes drains are classic, therefore they are suitable for operation in all regions with different levels of humidity and rainfall.

Plastic gutters

For the manufacture of plastic drain used durable and reliable polymer materials, resistant to the negative effects of precipitation, chemical substances, corrosion, ultraviolet radiation and decay.

Application modern technologies allows you to create durable gutters of various configurations and shapes.

The main difference between plastic and metal systems is the presence of longitudinal guides on inner surface elements. They provide additional rigidity of the structure and quick drainage of wastewater. Cross guides on the outside help to increase the strength and wear resistance of each element of the system.

According to the installation method, the system can be glued (fixed with a special adhesive composition) and glueless (installation on seals).

The main advantages of a plastic drain include:

• Resistant to UV radiation, fading and corrosion.
• High strength and wear resistance.
• Light weight of structural elements.
• Wide operating temperature range: from -38 to +65 degrees.
• Simple and fast installation.
• Wide range of colors and variety of shapes.
• Affordable Maintenance and care.
• Low cost of the finished system.

Among the disadvantages of drainage, the following points can be distinguished:

• Susceptibility to mechanical damage and extreme loads. Such a system is designed only for low-rise buildings.
• Low maintainability. Destroyed or deformed elements cannot be repaired, therefore, they require a complete replacement.
• The glueless version of the system requires the timely replacement of worn seals, which entails the complete dismantling and reassembly of the entire drain structure.
• Propensity for significant linear expansion.

Metal gutters

Modern metal drainage systems are made of galvanized steel (with and without polymer coating), copper, titanium-zinc and aluminum alloy. The differences are in the cost of materials and components, as well as their service life.

Such systems have a number of significant advantages:

• High strength and reliability.
• Resistance to extreme mechanical, wind and snow loads, as well as the negative effects of other external factors.
• High fire safety.
• Wide temperature range: from -58 to +125 degrees.
• Standard sizes and configurations.

The main disadvantages of metal drainage systems include:

• A significant mass of structural elements.
• The complexity of the installation work.
• Minor color gamut.
• Susceptibility to corrosion on the damaged surface (with the exception of copper and titanium-zinc systems).
• A standard configuration for a structure that is not suitable for installation on a roof with right angles (90 degrees).
• The high cost of materials and components for the manufacture of the system.

Do-it-yourself gutter installation technology

Before proceeding to installation work, you need to calculate the throughput of the drainage system and the total number of its structural elements. To do this, a linear measurement of the roof perimeter, the depth of the removal of the eaves, the distance from the eaves overhang to the ground, the angle of the roof slope is performed.

To do self-assembly gutter for the roof, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

• Drain elements.
• Water intake funnels with gratings.
• Gutter and downspouts.
• Fasteners for fixing on the roof or facade (brackets, clamps, seals, rings).
• Electric drill.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Glue.
• Roulette and level.

Installation instructions for gutters:

1. Work begins with the installation of extreme brackets. They can be installed on roof rafters or frontal eaves.
2. When installing brackets, it is important to observe required angle slope - every 10 meters it should be 5-6 cm. So, the second bracket (hook) should be located 6 cm lower than the first and so on. All brackets must be fixed as rigidly as possible to avoid possible sagging of the gutters under the weight of snow or water. Optimal step between hooks should be 50 cm.
3. At the locations of the pipes, funnels-water collectors of round or rectangular cross section are mounted. Plastic funnels are mounted on the adhesive composition, and metal ones - on the clamps.
4. The gutter is equipped with special gratings to protect Wastewater from pollution - leaves, dirt and debris.
5. The installed gutter is connected to the brackets. Plugs with rubber seals are fixed at both ends of the gutter.
6. All gutters must be assembled together. Sealing elements and couplings are provided for the connection, which guarantee the necessary rigidity to the structure.
7. Drainage elbows are mounted to the bottom of the funnels for the drain. They provide the correct drainage from the roof at an angle, and also connect other elements of the system. The minimum allowable distance from the pipe to the wall should be 3.5 cm. If necessary, it can be edited up to 6 cm.
8. An additional elbow is installed under the funnel for the installation of downpipes in the elbow. The pipe in the knee is fixed with clamps. The length of the drain can be increased by using several pipes inserted into each other. The fixing clamps are a double arc that must be installed on the pipe from both sides. TO load-bearing structures they can be mounted on dowels or screws.
9. The final stage will be the fastening of the drain - a deployed knee, which will ensure the drainage of drains from the foundation and walls to a safe distance of up to 40 cm.

The installation of gutters provides for the mandatory preparation of surfaces - the treatment of wooden rafters with antiseptic compounds and varnishes.

Gutter heating options

The lack of an anti-icing system leads to the formation of leaks in the waste structures, the destruction of the facade and the foundation of the building. But the main danger lies in the hanging ice, which, when falling, can threaten the health and life of people.

To eliminate icing and possible damage to gutters, as well as to prevent the leakage of roofing material, installation is carried out reliable system heating.

The modern anti-icing system maintains the internal heating temperature of the structural elements of the gutters and the roof above 0. It has a fairly simple and efficient device, consisting of heating resistive and self-regulating cables.

• The cable is resistive. Standard heating element, which consists of a metal conductive core and thermal insulation. It has constant resistance, constant heating temperature and standard power.
• The cable is self-regulating. An element for heating roofs and gutter systems is a heating matrix for adjusting temperature regime, thermal insulation (internal and external) and braid.

Heating of drains can be: external - the cable is installed in the lower part of the roof slope, internal - the cable is installed inside the gutter and pipe.

How to ensure a long service life of the drain?

In order for the installed drainage system to serve for more than a dozen years, it is recommended to follow the basic rules for its operation and maintenance.

1. To increase the throughput of the drain, all structural elements of the system - gutters, pipes and funnels must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and washed with water. The frequency of prevention is annually in the spring and autumn.
2. For effective snowmelt and protection of the drain from the negative effects of snow cover, it is necessary to install special snow retainers on the roof.
3. To prevent frost, you can use quality system heating installed inside gutters.
4. To protect the structural elements of the drainage system from clogging with tree leaves, it is necessary to additionally install nets along the entire length of the gutters, as well as perforated baskets in the water intake funnels.
5. When diverting wastewater to the sewer, each sewer must be equipped with a fine-mesh grate to retain large debris.

Common mistakes when installing gutters

• Wrong choice of system, material and inaccurate calculation of the dimensions of the structure are fraught with overflow of drains from the gutters.
• The absence of the necessary elements to protect the drain from pollution, icing and freezing.
• Failure to comply with the minimum allowable distance between the fixing brackets is fraught with sagging gutters.
• Excessive fixation of plastic pipes with clamps violates the thermal expansion of the material in the vertical direction.
• Insufficient number of funnels and non-observance of the angle of inclination of the gutters are fraught with overflows in any part of the system.
• Fixing drainpipes close to the facade is fraught with flooding of the foundation and destruction of the structure.
• Installing pipes at the inside corners of a building can complicate the maintenance of the structure.

All of these errors can lead to sad consequences- deformation of the elements of the system, flooding of the foundation and destruction of the walls.

Correctly chosen and installed drain able to provide reliable protection roofs and facades of the house from the negative effects of precipitation. Arrangement of efficient and practical system drainage is the main task that any owner of a land plot and a private building has to solve.

Any private building, for example, in the form country house, must be equipped with a gutter system, which is necessary to drain excess water as a result of rain or snow melt in the presence of a pitched roof. If the installation of the drainage system is done incorrectly, which often happens when you install it yourself, or if it is absent as such, then the gradual destruction of the building will result.

Precipitation is the main reason that erosion of the foundation occurs. This is what makes it necessary to install a drainage system that can be mounted on its own. But how to install a drain yourself? The installation of a drainage system involves a number of recommendations with which you can create a functional drain that provides a complete removal of excess water.

Installation instructions for a drainage system usually include the same set of actions: necessary calculations, the purchase of materials and the implementation of the direct implementation of a particular type of work. In this case, the construction of the drain occurs in approximately the same order. Initially, you should decide on the type of system required, and then, based on calculations, purchase material and install roof gutters.

Drainage systems differ in manufacturing variability, which depends on the required throughput. In particular, roof gutters can be marked as follows: 125/100. This marking makes it clear how the diameter of the pipe correlates with the diameter of the gutter, which is more clearly seen in the figure below.

Attention! Almost every manufacturer produces their own versions of drainage systems, differing in the size of pipes and gutters. In this regard, you should not try to combine elements of drains produced by different manufacturers.

The presence on the market of such a variety of drainage systems is due to the fact that attempts are being made to satisfy the full range of needs of buyers of these products.

How to choose the right drainage system?

High-quality installation of gutters cannot be implemented without a properly selected system. Optimal choice the type of system under consideration should be based on the following information:

• the level of precipitation at its maximum in relation to the region where the building is located, in respect of which it is planned to carry out work on the installation of gutters;
• parameter of the area of ​​the largest roof slope, necessary in order to determine a suitable gutter.

There is a formula that makes it possible to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope:

S = (A + B/2) x C

In this case, one point should be taken into account - for a flat roof, characterized by a slope within 10 degrees, a slightly different calculation formula is used:

Using the table below, you can choose a drainage system in accordance with the measurements obtained.

When the definition of the type of system is completed, you should proceed to the calculation of how much material is required. To simplify this process, it is necessary to prepare plane drawings.

The above figure makes it easy to understand how the calculation of the required amount of materials necessary for the organization of the drainage system is made.

Gutter calculation

There are two types of gutters, where one has a semicircular cross section, and the other is rectangular. The purpose of this element of the system is to collect precipitation falling on the roof of the building. Gutters are usually available in two sizes: 3 and 4 meters. Its installation is carried out by using fasteners in the form of brackets and hooks, installed every 60-90 cm with the obligatory creation of a slope of 1 cm for every 3-4 m of the length of the gutter.

The structure considered in our case, as an example of installing a drainage system, allows us to conclude that 10 three-meter gutters and 1 four-meter one will be needed.

Attention! Round the resulting values ​​to the nearest whole gutter length. The reliability of the system will be higher and its cost lower if the number of connections can be minimized.

Calculation of corner gutters

The functionality of the corner gutter is determined by the need to change the direction of movement of water flows, which is done through this element of the system. Corner gutters are fixed at the points of external and internal corners roof structure. As a result, it turns out that the number of external corners is 4, and internal - 2.

Attention! The use of a plastic gutter expands the possibilities of creating corner options. This is achieved by cutting out certain parts of the gutter and connecting them at a specific angle using cold welding.

Calculation of funnels, plugs and connectors

Returning to our example, we conclude that, in relation to the characteristics of our house, 4 funnels, 2 plugs and about 17 connectors should be prepared, which depends on the nuances of installation. So, in some systems, the fastening of the corners is carried out directly to the gutter, while in others this process is realized through connectors.

Installation of systems accessible with glue should be carried out with the installation of standard connectors and such as compensating ones. In the case of the latter, their use is justified when the length of the roof exceeds 8 r.m. Compensating connectors are an opportunity to avoid negative impact on the integrity of the system from the linear expansion of the gutters under the influence of ambient temperatures. With regard to our example, it would be necessary to install 4 standard connectors and 1 compensation.

Attention! One funnel guarantees trouble-free water intake from 10 m.p. gutters. If the length of the wall exceeds the mentioned parameter, then it is necessary to install 2 funnels at a distance from each other within 20 m.

When installing the gutter, fasteners in the form of hooks of different lengths are used. Using short hooks - fastening the gutter to the roof. As for the long hooks, they are used to install the gutter on the rafters until the roofing is installed.

The installation of hooks must be carried out with the obligatory observance of a distance of 60 cm between them. It is also necessary to adhere to the rule of mandatory installation of this type of fasteners at the junction of the gutter, at the corners of the structure and where there are funnels and plugs. In our case, the installation of hooks in the amount of 68 will be required.

Fixing drain pipes

The drainpipe provides a vertical flow of water. Moreover, it can have a cross section in the form of a circle or a rectangle. Such pipes are attached to the wall by means of brackets, taking into account one or another mounting method:

• “on stone” - fastening is carried out on a wall made of stone, brick or concrete;
• “on a tree” - as a mounting plane, we mean wooden walls from timber, logs or OSB.

The calculation of the number of pipes needed should be related to the number of funnels. We have 4 of them, so there should be the same number of pipes. As for the length of the pipes, it should be related to the sum of the lengths of those walls that will serve as the place for their installation. On sale of this type of pipe are sold in the form of products with a length of 3 and 4 m. Since it is necessary to avoid an excessive number of joints on the pipe, the required length of this product should be selected, rounded up. For example, with a height of your house of 3.5 m, you need to buy a 4-meter pipe. Installation of downpipes is carried out in increments of 1 meter with a mandatory attachment point near the knee.

Elbow and drain

If your house corresponds to the structure shown in our photo, then you will need to equip each riser with 2 knees. In our case, we get 4 risers, 8 knees and 4 drains.

L is the distance that should be measured in the same way as shown in the figure.

Attention!The construction of the attic changes the calculations somewhat. You will need a different number of gutters and a different installation, since you will have to take into account the height of the attic wall. The diagrams below will help you understand how to calculate in a new way.

Installation steps

Stage 1: installation of fasteners for gutters

The market offers many solutions in terms of fasteners that can be used to install gutters. At the same time, the installation of these components of the drainage system is carried out both on the wall and directly on the roof. At the same time, the following condition must be observed: the gutters must be installed in such a way that there is a slope of about 5 cm per 10 meters of the length of this product in the direction of the downpipe. This position ensures free flow of water without overflowing over the edges of the gutter. If the length of the house exceeds 20 meters, it is necessary to arrange 2 slopes for the full drainage of water, starting from the middle of the building.

Reliable fastening of the gutters is provided by brackets installed in half a meter increments. At the same time, care should be taken to ensure that this parameter is observed regardless of the distance between the rafters, for example, you can use the crate for mounting these fasteners.

Stage 2: installation of funnels

Typically, funnels are installed where the drain pipes are. But under certain conditions, these elements of the drainage system find their application in terms of connecting gutters. If so, then you should install from them. Concerning standard installation inlet funnels, then it should begin with the fact that you first need to make a corresponding hole in the gutter, using, for example, a hacksaw. Then the edges of such a hole should be cleaned and after that you can proceed to direct installation using the appropriate clamps if the funnel is metal. If this product is made of plastic, then its installation is carried out using glue.

Stage 3: installation of the gutter

Installation of gutters is carried out in accordance with a simple instruction:

• lay the gutter on the brackets with the outer groove down;
• fasten the gutter due to the presence of special clamps.

Stage 4: installation of plugs

The most effective plugs are equipped with rubber seals, which are located on the lower arc of this product. If you don’t have this type of plugs at hand, then you should follow some conditions for installing standard plugs:

• use a seal, which must be laid in the plug with the ribbed side up;
• to connect the plug with the gutter.

Stage 5: joining the gutters

To connect the gutters, it is necessary to use connectors specially designed for this purpose, equipped with seals. In practice, the two gutters to be connected need to be placed at a small distance from each other, and then the connector is correctly installed between them and the installation is completed by securing the docking point with a lock.

Stage 6: knee installation

The installation process of the elbow involves its installation on the funnel in the direction of the outlet to the wall in order to ensure a closer location to the building of the drainpipe. In the next step, another elbow is added to the installed knee, providing a downward direction.

Stage 7: installation of downpipes

The pipe is installed in the elbow with further fixing of the connection with a clamp. To increase the length of the drain, an additional pipe is threaded into the already installed one.

Stage 8: Clamps

Depending on the material of the supporting elements (brick, wood), different kinds clamps. Mostly, the clamps in their structure are 2 arcs that are put on the pipe and fixed by means of bolts.

Stage 9: drain

A drain, resembling a knee, is designed to drain water from the base of the building. Usually it is mounted so that from the blind area to the edge of the drain is from 30 to 40 cm.

The drainage system must be durable - this is the main requirement. Also, the installation of the gutter system must be done correctly so that it can cope with any flow of water. After the installation of gutters is completed, it is necessary to flush the system to remove chips, which can damage plastic elements.

Any building needs high-quality removal of precipitation. The roof itself is airtight, and storm water and snow go away thanks to the slopes. But if the flowing moisture gets on the facade or foundation of the building, then they will become damp and wear out faster. Therefore, every building needs a drain. This is a protective structure, consisting of a system of gutters located along the perimeter of the roof, and outlet pipes.

Why do you need a drain

An external drain is a complex of open gutters that collects moisture from the roof and directs it into vertical outlet pipes. The places where the structure ends are equipped with water collection tanks or storm sewers.

The gutter protects the house from the damaging effects of moisture

Gutter functions

The drain performs the following functions:

1. Protective. It consists in diverting wastewater from the walls and basement of the house.
2. Decorative. A beautiful homemade gutter will decorate your home or gazebo.
3. Cumulative. With the help of such a system, storm water can be filled with a special reservoir for irrigation.

Industrial drains are made of special plastic or galvanized steel and their cost is quite high. And if you add plugs, funnels, corners and knees, then the price will double. Ready-made parts have their own advantage - they are easy to assemble, like a designer. To save money, the craftsmen found an alternative and began to independently manufacture drainage systems from improvised means, for example, from plastic sewer pipes. Therefore, if there is already a house or cottage, but there is no drain, then you can risk making it yourself.

Homemade gutter can last for many years

If you approach the matter wisely and choose the right material, then a home-made drain can be used as the main one.

Types of drains

Drainage is of the following types:

1. External or external. This type is suitable for self-assembly.
2. Internal, which is also provided for in the project. Most often, this type is installed on flat roofs, pipes from any material are suitable for it.

Materials for homemade gutters

Previously, only metal was used to assemble ebb systems. More often - galvanized or polymer-coated steel, less often - copper or aluminum. Now range suitable materials increased significantly:

1. Gutters made of galvanized steel. They are durable, reliable, resistant to loads and temperature fluctuations. Their disadvantage is noise and susceptibility to corrosion.

   Galvanized steel is one of the most popular gutter materials.

2. PVC drainage systems. They are lightweight and low noise, easy to assemble and well resist temperature changes.

   PVC gutter - reliable and silent

3. Drainage systems from sewer pipes. Thanks to convenient installation and a wide variety of adapters, such pipes have become an excellent replacement for PVC industrial drains.

   Sewer pipes are an excellent material for a drain

4. Ceramic pipes and gutters. They will need special clay and pottery skill.

   Ceramic pipes are very durable

5. ebbs from plastic bottles. They are quick to install, but are suitable as a temporary alternative.

   Bottle plastic is the most available material to create a drainage

6. Wooden gutters. Made by hand, they last a long time only in case of special processing.

   The wooden gutter is very decorative.

7. Copper drains. Suitable for long-term use, but become covered with patina over time.

   Copper gutters look noble and prestigious

For handmade standard drainage systems often use plastic sewer pipes. They have a number of undoubted advantages:

• affordable price;
• a wide range of pipes and adapters, as well as various mechanisms for fastening;
• light weight, which facilitates transportation and installation;
• the possibility of self-cutting;
• durability.

Since such pipes are different colors, you need to figure out which of them are recommended to use for arranging a drainage system:

How to make a gutter with your own hands

Before buying pipes, a diagram of the entire system is drawn up, including all parts of the structure and their number:

The cross section of the pipes is selected based on the area of ​​​​the roof slope. You can use the following scale:

• slope area up to 50 sq. m - pipe diameter 8 cm;
• up to 125 sq. m - 9 cm;
• over 125 sq. m - 10 cm.

The remaining elements are purchased based on the diameter of the pipes from which the gutters are made.

As already noted, before buying materials and installing a drain, you need to draw detailed diagram, which should include:

• roof perimeter;
• length and number of gutters;
• attachment points for brackets, joints and funnels;
• location of drains.

Based on the perimeter of the roof, the footage of the pipe for future gutters is determined. Since it is sawn in half and two are obtained from one workpiece, the required length of the pipes will be equal to half the perimeter of the roof. Next, the number of drainage risers is calculated. To do this, a plan is drawn on which all elements are marked. The distance between them cannot exceed 5 m. After determining the number of drains, their length is calculated, for which the distance from the cornice overhang to the ground is measured. This will be the estimated height of the drainage riser. This figure is multiplied by the number of parts and the desired pipe length is obtained. Next on the project, the tees connecting the gutters and risers are calculated. If the risers deviate at an angle, ready-made adapters are purchased. A special universal sealant for joints is also required.

Tools for the job

For work you need:

• wood screws;
• screwdriver;
• grinder, jigsaw;
• hacksaw for metal;
• screwdriver;
• building cord;
• level and tape measure;

You will also need scaffolding.

Drainage system construction

After purchasing the materials, you can begin to manufacture and assemble the drainage structure.

Creating gutters

To make a gutter from a pipe, it should be cut in half. This can be done with a grinder by choosing a diamond-coated disc and segments. Then the plastic will not melt when cutting. You can also use an electric jigsaw. For convenience, you need to design something like a guide and fix it on the workpiece so that the cut is even. It can be done with a simple hacksaw. A ruler attached to the workpiece with adhesive tape, or a thread stretched over self-tapping screws screwed into the pipe from both ends can act as a guide. The sections of the pipe included in the tee are not sawn. This guarantees reliable connections.

From one plastic pipe it turns out two drainage gutters

Manufacturing and installation of brackets

Brackets are used to secure the gutters. You can buy them or make your own from strips of sheet metal, bending the gutter to fit. The bracket is the basic component of an outdoor gutter that supports the gutter. With the help of hook-shaped holders, a configuration of the water intake circuit is formed.
Brackets can be made independently from a strip of steel with a thickness of at least 2 mm, because they must be reliable. You can buy ready-made strips for electrical work. Their cross section is initially suitable, it remains only to cut the blanks along the length.
Workpiece size:

To ensure that all brackets are the same, you can use a steel strip bender or a steel pipe of the desired size as a template. It is also recommended to fill nails on a thick board in the desired sequence and bend the holder using a piece of pipe as a lever.
After shaping, holes are drilled in the brackets - two for attaching to the cornice, the next two for attaching the gutter. Finally, the holders are painted with rust paint - it is more durable. Brackets are attached in several ways:

Brackets are mounted taking into account the following principles:

Having chosen the method of fixing the brackets, you can get to work:

1. The first two extreme brackets are attached, between which the necessary slope is maintained.

   The two end brackets are attached first.

2. A cord is stretched between the fixed brackets, and places for attaching all other elements are marked along this straight line.
3. The brackets are screwed to the base in increments of 550–600 mm.

   A distance of 5-6 cm is maintained between the brackets

4. Next, plastic adapters or funnels of the future drain are mounted. One funnel is able to collect water from 120 m of roof.

   The hole for installing the funnel is cut with a hacksaw.

5. Gutters are installed. They gather both on the ground and under the roof. The main thing is to correctly connect the joints. They are attached with glue or docked using special aluminum clips. In case of docking, the use of sealant is mandatory. Bracket mounting height varies by region. If there is little snow in winter, then you can fix it where it is convenient. Otherwise, the gutter is lowered so that the snow coming from the roof does not take the drain with it.

   Gutters are docked with clips or put on glue

6. When the gutters are assembled and lie on the brackets, the adapter pipes from solid pieces of pipes are inserted into tees or drain funnels. Before that, they are treated with a sealant. A plug must be installed at the upper end of the drain system.

   The plug is mounted on a rubber seal

Video: installing cornice brackets

Installation of external drainage risers

Assembling downspouts looks the same as joining gutters. If the pipe is lengthened, then an adapter is placed on the sealant between the segments. The process requires compliance with a number of rules:

• the drainpipe should move away from the wall by 10 cm;
• for fastening to the walls you need to use clamps;
• the pipe should be mounted from top to bottom;
• insert the upper section into the funnel and fix with sealant.

If necessary, the riser pipe can be connected to an adapter for storm sewer. It is recommended to replace it with a knee, under which a container for flowing water is placed.

The installation of the downpipe must be carried out in accordance with the regulations

It is recommended to additionally protect the finished drain from littering by installing a construction mesh twisted into a roll into the gutters. The diameter of the rolled roll should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe from which the gutters are made. The protection is fixed with plastic clamps.

The gutter can be protected with a mesh of different materials

Video: drainage from sewer pipes

Homemade galvanized steel gutter

Creating a drainage system from galvanized steel requires certain knowledge and skill. Roofing sheet steel 0.5–0.7 mm is usually used. It should not be less than 270 g per sq. m.

Tools

It is necessary to prepare:

• metal scissors;
• marker for marking;
• hammer and mallet;
• pliers.

Making a pipe from tin

Pipes are a simple element of a drain system and are very easy to make at home. Sheets of galvanized steel or thin tin are suitable for work. The manufacturing method of these materials is the same.

It is easy to make a steel pipe yourself

Step-by-step instruction

Work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Calculation of the amount of materials and their purchase.

   The weight of the steel sheet must be at least 270 g per square meter. m

2. A sheet of metal laid on a flat surface is cut to the size of the gutters and pipes of the future drain. The width of the blank for the pipe should have a margin of one and a half centimeters to connect the edges. A fold line is also applied - on one side at a distance of 0.5 cm, and on the other - 1 cm. Before shaping, the workpiece can be painted to extend its service life.

   To make the drainpipe last longer, it can be painted

3. With the help of pliers, the pattern is bent from the smaller side at an angle, and from the larger side - the letter G.
4. The metal is leveled with a mallet at a right angle. The sides of the workpiece are connected, and the smaller part should go into the larger one.
5. Cylindrical or semi-cylindrical shape of the workpiece can be given manually using a template. On a pipe or log desired diameter a sheet of metal is laid and tapped with a mallet.

   You can shape the pipe for the drain with your own hands

Steel gutter installation

The principles of installing a gutter system made of galvanized metal are similar to installing a drain made of plastic pipes. But there are also differences:

1. After determining the starting point, the gutter brackets are mounted.
2. Metal gutters are overlapped 7-10 cm long. The overlap is designed to compensate for the expansion of the metal in the summer.
3. Funnels are installed, which should be located between the brackets. The holes for the funnels are cut with scissors for metal.
4. The funnels are connected to the pipe at a sufficient distance from the wall.
5. Pipes are fixed with clamps.
6. An ebb is attached at the bottom of the pipe.
7. An anti-icing system is installed.

Video: construction of a metal drain

Drainage from plastic bottles

The cheapest and easiest option is to create a drain from plastic containers. Accumulating the right amount of such material will be easy, but for the design you will need 1.5-liter straight-shaped bottles. In addition to them, you will need wire and brackets.

Drainage from bottle plastic is assembled very quickly and is cheap

Tools and materials for work

It is worth preparing:

• furniture stapler and brackets 10–12 mm;
• construction knife;
• drill or screwdriver;
• thin drill;
• wire;
• awl;
• plastic container.

Step-by-step instructions for making a drip from plastic bottles

1. The first step is to calculate the length of the future drain. For convenience, you can draw a sketch. The functional part of the bottle will be 15–20 cm. This plastic is not suitable for long (more than 5 m) structures.
2. Bottles are cleaned of stickers and labels.
3. Then, the bottom and the neck are cut off from the plastic container in the place where the upper part narrows. For the gutter, the resulting cylinder is sawn in half.

   A plastic bottle needs to be prepared to make a drain out of it.

4. The gutter is assembled from plastic rectangles using a stapler. The plastic is overlapped (1.5 cm) and fixed with two or three staples. The bottoms are used as plugs for swivel structures.

   You need to fasten the parts of the bottles for the gutter with a stapler

5. The resulting light gutter is attached to the roof. To do this, holes are drilled in slate or other roofing material at a distance of 20–30 cm. Similar holes in the gutter are made with a screwdriver or an ordinary awl. Next, a wire is passed through the holes, which attaches the spillway to the roof.
6. Drainage is also easily constructed from bottles. We cut off the neck of one, and from the rest we make already familiar cylinders. A bottle with a cut off neck will act as an adapter - it will need to make a hole in it for the edge of the gutter.

   The finished construction of plastic bottles will last about a year

The finished design will last at least a year, but then you have to take care of creating a more advanced system.

Video: plastic bottle chute

It's obvious that independent creation gutter system is available to anyone who wants to equip their home with an economical and practical design.

One of the key stages in the arrangement of the roofing system of the house is drainage. Without its organization, it is impossible to protect the facade of the building from rain and water flows during the snowmelt period.

How to properly install gutters and what to consider when installing the structure, we will consider in the article.

The question of how the drainage system will be equipped should be decided at the design stage of the building.

When making calculations, you need to be guided by the requirements of the current SNiPa 2.04.01-85. This approach will allow, taking into account all the nuances, to correctly select best option construction execution.

The key purpose of the drainage system is to collect and divert precipitation, thereby protecting the walls and foundation of the building from premature destruction.

The main points to be followed when designing a drainage system:

1. Having made a copy of the roof drawing, draw a plan for the location of the drainage elements.
2. Calculate the total area of ​​the roof and all its slopes separately, taking into account the adjacent vertical walls.
3. Based on the indications of the intensity of rains in a given area, determine the throughput of the system.
4. In accordance with the obtained values, determine the diameter of the installed downpipes, the number and cross section of the drain funnels, as well as the frequency of their placement along the wall of the building.

The result should be a system that can collect and remove the maximum amount of liquid.

At the design stage, it is important to determine the location of the risers so that they do not disturb the exterior composition. Most often they are placed at the corners of the building, but it is quite possible to arrange it in a niche created by a bay window.

If the discharge of the pipe coming from the drains will be carried out on the blind area, it is better to remove the risers as much as possible from the entrances to the basement, basement ventilation vents and footpaths laid near the house.

Components of the drainage system

The system includes two groups of parts - horizontal and vertical drainage parts. Together they number about a dozen types of structural elements, each of which performs the task assigned to it.

The main thing when choosing the components of the drainage system is to select elements that are both structurally and according to appearance harmoniously complement the overall picture

The structural elements of the drainage system are:

• drainpipes- key functional elements of the system, designed to move masses of water from the roof;
• gutters– narrow channels for collecting and redirecting water;
• funnels- conical sockets in the upper part of the pipe are designed to collect, delay and drain water flowing down the gutters;
• knee- structures in the form of short bent pipe sections are installed in order to change the direction of the water flow;
• brackets- fasteners for fixing the gutter to the roof;
• seals- additional elements provide fastening strength at the joints;
• clamps- fasteners for fixing the structure to the facade of the building.

Calculation of the required number of elements

It is better to entrust this rather important event to specialists selling drainage systems, or to the masters of the company providing installation roofing services. In the absence of such an opportunity, the calculation can be performed on its own.

Since in private construction, many are trying to get away from typical options and roofs similar in design, required amount elements of the system should be calculated individually

The main points of competent calculation:

1. gutters. The total length of the channels must correspond to the length of all roof slopes used to collect water. Their docking is carried out using connectors.
2. Inlet funnels. They are installed at the outer corners of the building and additionally placed every 8-12 meters so that the overall slope of the channels is not too large.
3. Downspouts. The number of products corresponds to the number of funnels, and the length corresponds to the distance from the roof to the surface of the earth.
4. brackets. The number of brackets is determined on the basis that one element is required for each meter of the channel. Additional holders will be required for funnels in the center and wall and in the corner of the house.

The number of clamps directly depends on the height of the building. But in any case, each individual pipe section to be installed is fixed with at least one clamp. When installing a downpipe in a one-story building, three fasteners are often enough, located at the top, bottom and in the middle of the product.

When calculating, the condition is taken as a basis that for 1 sq.m of the roof in horizontal projection there should be 1.5 sq.cm of the cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe drain and funnel. For example: the sectional area of ​​a pipe D 100 mm is 78.5 sq.cm. This is an average value.

Depending on whether it is necessary to install the system in regions with a high level of precipitation, or, on the contrary, in arid areas, amendments are made to the calculations.

Bracket mounting methods

Installing brackets according to the rules is still at the stage preceding the laying of the roof. If fixation is carried out after the coating has been laid, then ordinary short hooks are used as fasteners.

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Short brackets are attached to the front board so that they create a slope towards the funnel. We calculate how much lower the hook at the funnel should be than the highest holder. We mark the position of the extreme brackets on the board

We fasten the two extreme holders: the highest and the lowest, located next to the funnel. We connect them with fishing line or lace

We check with the building level whether the slope is created by the hooks and whether its value meets the conditions specified by the manufacturer of the drainage system

We mark on the frontal board the attachment points of ordinary hooks. There should be an equal distance between them, the height is determined by the stretched lace. We fix short brackets with self-tapping screws

Step 1: Fitting the short hook to the installation site

Step 2: Attaching the highest holder

Step 3: Checking the slope formed by the holders

Step 4: Fixing the ordinary drain holders

Depending on the shape of the bracket, the elements can be fixed in one of three ways:

1. Fixing to the frontal roof board- it is used when it is necessary to install the system on a finished roof.
2. Rafter leg attachment- used at the stage of installation prior to laying the roofing material.
3. Fixation on the bottom edge flooring or the first lath of the crate is used for roofing, the step between the rafters of which exceeds the mark of 600 mm.

Brackets designed for fixing to the frontal roofing board are most often included in the package of systems made of polyvinyl chloride.

Suspended structures for fixing to the frontal board have reinforced vertical ribs, due to which they can easily withstand heavy loads

Metal brackets for fastening to the frontal roofing board are made shorter. If the roof structure does not provide for a frontal board, combined brackets are used.

They are equipped with extensions made of steel. Due to this, it is convenient to mount them directly on the rafter leg.

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Numbers are put on the legs of long brackets and a fold line is marked, which should ensure the slope of the gutter

According to the markup, the brackets are bent. The work is done with the help of a special tool.

In accordance with the numbering, the brackets are laid out along the crate

First, two extreme brackets are installed, between which the cord is pulled. This line is needed for a landmark that determines the slope

Step 1: Slope the Long Brackets

Step 2: Bending the Long Metal Brackets

Step 3: Layout of the bent brackets along the slope

Step 4: Marking the line for attaching the holders

In case it is impossible to provide access to the rafters, metal crutches are attached to the wall. They act as a support for further fastening of the metal gutter.

Method of fixation, involving fastening to rafter leg, effective for arranging roofs of houses in regions with heavy rainfall. It is also used, if necessary, to drain water from roofs with a large area, for which heavy coatings are used.

When fastening to the rafter leg, to increase the reliability between the fasteners, they maintain an equidistant distance equal to 50 centimeters

With this method, the hooks are brought behind the base and set at an equidistant distance in order to provide the desired slope of the gutter.

The third method of fixation, which involves fastening to the crate, is most often used when arranging a roof that has a coating of ondulin or metal tiles. It is chosen only if the recesses cannot reduce bearing capacity battens in the cornice area.

For fixing on the counter rails of the crate, combined models of brackets or metal long hooks are used, deepening them into the long grooves of the mounting strips

When choosing the third method of fixation, it is important to remember that only strict adherence to the installation rules and the installation procedure can ensure the reliability and durability of the structure.

Gutter installation technology

Installation of equipment for gutters is carried out after the completion of facing work. There is nothing difficult in how to prepare and install a drain. PVC installation systems can be performed even by a novice master.

The assembly and installation of a drainage system includes a number of standard steps:

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Ideally, the gutter system is installed before the roof is laid. But in the case of a piece coating, you can remove the bottom row of tiles and carry out work

Before mounting the brackets, we select the optimal position of the outer holders. They should provide a slope towards the drain funnel, the width of the gutter should protrude 1/3 beyond the edge of the cornice

According to the mark, we bend the legs of the two extreme brackets located at the highest and lowest points of the gutter

After installing the two extreme brackets, we connect them by pulling a fishing line or twine. This line is needed for accurate marking of ordinary holders

We check the building levels for the slope created by the holders

The edges of the gutter, located near the corner of the slopes, are closed with plugs to prevent water from flowing past the funnel

If the length of the slope to be equipped is more than 3 meters, then we build up the gutters using a connector that compensates for linear expansion

We fix the gutters installed on the brackets by bending the tab of the holder

Step 1: Installing an additional slat

Step 2: Trying on the bracket to determine the fold line

Step 3: Installing the end holder for the gutter

Step 4: Marking the installation of row brackets

Step 56 Checking the correct slope

Step 6: Installing the end cap on the edge of the gutter

Step 7: Joining the Gutter Pieces

Step 8: Fixing the gutter with the tongue of the bracket

After installing and fixing the gutters, drainage funnels are installed at the lowest points of the drainage system, to which drainpipes are connected:

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We remove the part of the gutter to which the catchment funnel and riser will be connected. We apply a funnel to mark a hole through it, which we will cut in the gutter

In the place marked on the gutter, we drill a hole with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the downpipe

On the bottom side of the gutter, we apply a catchment funnel and fix it by snapping the edges on the edge of the gutter

We return the chute with the funnel to its place. We connect two knees to the drainage funnel to bring the main part of the pipe closer to the wall

Step 9: Marking out the location of the funnel

Step 10: Drilling a Hole in the Gutter

Step 11: Attaching the Funnel to the Gutter

Step 12: Connecting Downpipe to Funnel

Installation of horizontal elements

A set of tools that will be needed during the work:

• marking cord;
• tape measure at least 3 meters long;
• hacksaw for metal;
• universal screwdriver;
• hammer;
• flat bender;
• pipe pliers.

Some craftsmen cut metal gutters and pipes using a grinder. But this is far from the best solution, since the rotating disk heats up the polymer coating during operation. And this can cause damage to the elements of the drain during operation.

The first step is to mount the brackets that are designed to support the catchment funnels, placing them at a distance of 5-10 cm from the elements

The installation of brackets begins with the installation of the extreme elements. Then the distance between the drainpipes is divided into equal intervals of 60-80 cm long for the installation of the remaining hooks.

To simplify your task by ensuring a uniform slope of the gutters in the direction of the water intake funnels, it is better to pull the cord when marking. The boundary values ​​​​of the slope are from 2 to 5 mm for each running meter. To improve the accuracy of the installation, it is better to mark several key lines by pulling the cord in two or three rows for this.

If you have to work with metal hook-brackets, before attaching, they must be bent in accordance with the angle of the roof

In the process of mounting the brackets, the slope is achieved by moving the short fasteners vertically or by bending the metal holders in the calculated place.

In order not to disturb the galvanization and not damage the polymer coating, fasteners are bent using special device- flat bender

The brackets are fixed on the mounting plate at three points, using self-tapping galvanized screws for this, not forgetting to correct the deviation from the direction given by the cord along the way

The collection of the drainage system can be done in one of two ways:

1. Lay out all the elements on the ground in a horizontal position, and then insert assembled structure into brackets fixed around the perimeter of the building. This method is applicable for small houses and small finishing areas.
2. The traditional option involves the phased assembly of all elements of the system directly on the building.

Installation of the drain should be carried out in the order "from top to bottom": first, water inlets are installed, then drain risers are connected. It's dictated technological features drainage system.

With the traditional stage-by-stage assembly of all elements of the drainage system, the installation of the structure is carried out strictly on the principle of "top down"

Before attaching the gutters to the parts of the roof, the funnels are first mounted, not forgetting to take into account possible thermal expansions. Then the gutters are installed, placing them 2 cm below the line, which conditionally acts as a continuation of the overhang. They are produced in lengths of 3-4 meters. Gutters that occupy the extreme positions in the line will most likely need to be cut.

When installing gutters, it is worth remembering that they must be at least a third covered by the overhang of the eaves. Ideally, the overlap should be half of its own diameter.

The gutter is placed in the holders in a slightly bent state, leading into the grooves of the hooks, first its far side, and then the near one, and fixing it by snapping

To prevent water from the roof from washing away the foundation, a drainage system is made. There are they from different materials, more or less expensive, but in general, the costs are solid. You can save a little if you collect the drain with your own hands. About the features and order of installation and will be discussed further.

Types of drainage systems

The most famous and common weirs for the roof are made of galvanized metal. May they not be as attractive as more modern options but reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What else is good - if you have the skill of a tinsmith, or just having “straight” hands, you can make a drain from galvanization with your own hands.

Speaking of others metal systems, then two of them belong to the elite category - copper and from an alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal gutter systems with polymer coating. At a price they are quite affordable, in appearance - you can’t find fault, in terms of durability - it depends on the manufacturer. If technology is followed, they will happen for many years.

There is another type of drainage from the roof - from polymers. They normally tolerate ultraviolet, frost and heat, are highly durable, and look good. The disadvantage can be considered a rather high price, especially of European manufacturers. However, there are good options in the category of inexpensive systems.

Composition of drainage systems

Gutters are located under the roof overhang. They are mounted on special brackets that hold the system. Since the storm drain is located around the entire perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be connected tightly, for this there are gutter connectors with rubber seals. These elements are often considered redundant. Then the gutters are overlapped with an overlap of at least 30 cm, connected with self-tapping screws.

To drain water, holes are made in the gutter into which funnels are inserted. Downspouts are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, the pipe is required to be curved. To do this, there are maple or universal rings (some manufacturers have). The downpipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps that have the same color as the entire system.

From all these elements, a system of the required configuration is assembled. If you decide to buy ready-made elements, and then assemble the gutter with your own hands, the best solution is to have a house plan with dimensions on hand. According to it, you will quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate the required number of elements.

Mounting Features

Most questions arise regarding the fastening of brackets for the drain. It must be said right away that they are installed taking into account the fact that the gutters should have a slight slope towards the funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it larger - up to 10 mm.

If the length of the roof gable is less than 10 meters, the slope is made to one side. If more, either they put an additional funnel (and drainpipe) in the middle and form a drain to it, or the gutter in the middle of the gable has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle to both sides.

When mounting a drain with your own hands, they usually do this: they nail the bracket at the highest point. Then the lowest one is nailed - taking into account the planned slope. A twine is stretched between them, along which all the rest are attached. One recommendation - before forming the slope, check the horizontalness of the line you are targeting. Usually this is either a frontal (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always perfectly level. So check the verticality, and preferably with a hydraulic level or, in extreme cases, a bubble one is also suitable, but of great length - at least a meter. For shorter ones at longer lengths, you will not be able to navigate.

Number of brackets and methods of their fastening

The number of brackets for installing a drain is considered simple: the distance between two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. Divide the total length of the wall by this distance. We add one to the resulting figure (the end bracket) and get the required amount for one wall. All others are calculated in the same way. If the building has a non-linear shape, you will have to count by the piece - the corner elements must be supported on both sides.

Now directly about the methods of attaching the brackets. There are three possibilities:

Once again, we draw attention to the fact that the brackets are nailed, taking into account the slope created. If they are made of metal, they are bent using improvised means or a special tool - a hook bender (sold in the same place as drains). In this case, the gutter must be positioned so that the roofing material ends before reaching half of the gutter, and it is better that it is in the interval 1/2 - 1/3. So most of the gutter "catches" water, which is important during heavy rains.

At what level to mount

Now about how high to raise the gutter to the roofing material. If there is little snow in your region, or the roof has a large angle of inclination, so that snow does not accumulate on it, you don’t have to worry too much and mount it where you like. Otherwise, it is necessary to lower the gutter, so that when the snow melts, the drain does not “come down”.

In the figure, the approximate trajectory of the melting snow is indicated by a dotted line. The far edge of the gutter should not intersect with it. By the way, it should be a couple of centimeters lower than the one located closer to the house.

If it is not possible to lower the gutter below, it will be necessary to install snow retainers on the roof. They prevent massive snowfall. The snow melts little by little, and comes off in small fragments without harming the storm drain.

This is what a massive snowfall looks like. As you can see, the storm drain bracket does not interfere (this is a fitting)

Gutter installation

Gutters are laid in fixed brackets. There are two systems with different sequence of actions. The first has a specially molded groove on the edge of the gutter. The ends of the brackets are threaded into this groove, then the gutter is turned into place, securing it with special tongues on the brackets. If you look at the photo, it will become clearer.

In the second system, installation begins from the side of the gable board. The far edge of the gutter is inserted into the locks located there, then alternately pressed into the locks on the front of the brackets.

Two fragments of the gutter must be connected with a special connecting element with rubber seals. But their cost is quite high, so two gutters are simply overlapped with a 30 cm approach (make sure that the joint is located along the water flow). For greater tightness between the two gutters, you can lay a strip of rubber, and connect them with ordinary self-tapping screws (or with washers and rubber gaskets). After installing the gutter, its edges are closed with plugs.

Funnel attachment

Having assembled and installed the gutter on the brackets, the installation of the drain continues with the installation of funnels. They are placed in the lowest areas. If the funnels are located close to the corners, stepping back from the edge of the gutter about 20 cm, a hole is cut with a hand saw. It is better not to use a jigsaw or grinder - it is likely that your cutout will be too large.

A funnel is attached to this cutout, clinging to the outer edge of the gutter. Then it starts up to the second edge and is fixed there with special clamps.

Installation of downpipes

Downspouts are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, a rotary element is attached directly to the funnel, which allows you to bring the pipes closer to the wall and fix them there. For fastening there are special clamps, painted in the same color as the entire system. There are they different designs, but basically they have a latch so that it can be dismantled without removing the screws that fasten the pipe to the wall.

Clamps are installed at a distance of at least 1.8-2 m from each other. At the bottom, the drain can be led directly into drainage system(if it is located nearby). If it is made simply around the foundation, the drain pipe ends with a rotary element that diverts water from the foundation to a distance of at least 20 cm.

In principle, a do-it-yourself drain is installed, but there is one more detail that will make operation much easier. A metal (preferably stainless) mesh is laid on the gutter. It prevents leaves and other large debris from entering the system.

Installing a grid will allow less frequent maintenance of the system. This is especially true in tall buildings.

Homemade drain

Ready-made drainage systems are good, but not cheap. What to do if drainage needs to be done in the country and spend a minimum for this? There are several very affordable options. The first is to make a drain from plastic sewer pipes. Take pipes of large diameter (110 mm and more), good quality with a thick wall, cut them in half and use them as gutters. As downpipes, you can use the same diameter or a little less. Brackets are more convenient to buy ready-made, but in principle, you can do it yourself. For more information on how to make a drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, see the video.

Even more a budget option- downpipes from plastic bottles. The gutter of them cannot be made normal, but the funnels of the pipe work normally.