Installation of gutters. Gutter installation: how to properly install a gutter and attach it to the roof. Materials for homemade gutters

Currently, traditional metal gutters are increasingly being replaced by modern plastic systems, which are considered more practical and reliable. Although all the previous installation steps are saved during installation, much less time and effort is spent on this.

Features of PVC gutter

From a constructive point of view, the plastic drainage system practically does not differ from the metal one. Products manufactured in industrial conditions are equipped with the same set of components intended for arranging horizontal and vertical branches.

The procedure for assembling and installing gutters includes the same number of steps and a similar sequence of operations. At the same time, in the course of manufacturing and PVC installations structures, it is impossible not to take into account the specifics of the material of manufacture. Products based on a polymer usually have a characteristic dimensional instability, which depends on temperature fluctuations.

When heated plastic parts their elongation occurs; cooling contributes to the return of the previous geometric dimensions. Gutters that are operated outdoors will be cooled in winter and heated in summer. As a result, either their lengthening or shortening occurs. Trying to save linear dimensions polymer products in a stable state is practically useless. You just have to adapt to this phenomenon, taking it into account during the design and installation of gutters.

Gutter PVC contours are completed with special compensators and connectors. With their help, harmlessness to the system as a whole is achieved by fluctuations in the size of its individual components. Thus, a certain movement of them in one direction and another becomes possible.

Also, polymers have another important property that requires mandatory consideration when equipping roofs with plastic gutters (more: ""). It's about the fact that PVC products of a certain length begin to sag and deform if supports are not provided under them. In order to avoid sagging of sufficiently flexible plastic gutters, special holders are mounted under them with a step of at least 60 cm.

If this is not done, there is a high probability of deflection of the horizontal sections in the gaps between the supports. This phenomenon is usually provoked by either its own weight or the load from precipitation. As a rule, the places of deflections begin to gradually acquire dirt and accumulate water. When frost sets in, these areas become especially dangerous, as they can burst from freezing.

How to assemble and install a drainage system

Installation work on the construction of PVC gutters is carried out in a strict sequence of individual operations.

A brief list of the operations carried out in this case is as follows:

Drafting a project. Developed simple circuit, which takes into account the optimal parameters and the number of main constituent elements drainage system. It is also important to consider mounting accessories.
Assembly and installation of the water intake. It consists of a chute and a funnel designed to receive atmospheric precipitation. The water intake part collects them from the roof, directing them along the drain risers.
Assembly and installation of the drainage system. It consists of gutter risers, the task of which is to direct water flows to the desired part of the blind area or into the storm sewer.

The arrangement of gutters always starts from the top, with a downward movement. This implies the priority assembly and installation of the water intake part, to which the risers of the drains are subsequently attached. In the course of work, it is important to observe a strict sequence of installation steps. The reason for such scrupulousness lies in the technological specifics of the system and technical features manufacturing material.

When developing a project for arranging a drainage system, it is important to strictly comply with certain technological requirements: only in this way can high-quality removal of atmospheric precipitation from the roof surface be achieved.

In doing so, the following must be taken into account:

Optimal shape of gutters. On two pitched roofs ah most often two separate gutters are installed. For equipment four-slope structures the installation of a gutter of a continuous type, consisting of several parts, is used. Its construction is carried out using corner connecting elements.
Number of risers. Resin gutter risers are installed every 12 m. If the gutter, which usually follows the size of the eaves, is longer than 12 m, a pair of risers will need to be used. In this case, standard water intake funnels are supplemented with a compensating funnel.
Expediency of using compensating funnels. They are usually used in cases where the total length of the gutter exceeds 12 m, or when there are technical difficulties with expansion (usually this happens due to the walls of neighboring buildings, if they are located back to back). In addition, a continuous drainage system along the perimeter of the roof is often equipped with compensating funnels.
Selection of gutter holders. Installation of downpipes is carried out using hook-shaped brackets of various lengths. Fastening of long holders is carried out on the crate before the coating is laid. Fixing short elements on the frontal board can be done at any convenient time. Often this is done upon completion of roofing work.
Gutter slope. This setting is affected by the brand of system you are using. Manufacturers usually recommend a slope in the range of 2-5 mm, based on 1 linear meter. The arrangement of the slope should be carried out in the direction where the water intake funnel is located. For these purposes, brackets offset in height are used.

It is strongly recommended to determine the installation points of the risers at the design stage. At the same time, the visual perception of the exterior composition should not suffer. Most often they are mounted on the corners of the building. Another option for their placement can be a niche created by a bay window or the center of the wall: this is done in cases where the receiving point of the storm sewer system is located there.

If atmospheric water is discharged onto the blind area, then the risers must be placed so that footpaths, ventilation vents and basement entrances do not suffer. Design drainage systems for frame buildings- a more difficult task, since it will require the orientation of vertical lines along the supporting frame racks. The same applies to buildings sheathed with siding.

How to calculate drainage elements

Definition required amount elements required for the construction of the drainage system takes place taking into account the characteristics of each specific case. Increasingly, in the construction of private houses, they are trying to use original structures, which leaves a certain imprint on the calculation of roofing and drainage systems. However, certain calculation templates greatly facilitate the performance of calculations.

There is a very simple scheme for calculating the drain of a gable roof, where the length of the slopes does not exceed 12 m:

gutters. Their footage should correspond to the length of the cornices. The linear thermal expansion of these elements will not encounter any obstacles, so the parameters of compensation expansions in this case can be omitted.
Gutter connectors. Since the gutters are 3 m long, each 12-meter line is equipped with 3 connectors.
Pair of funnels. By the number of gutters.
brackets. To calculate the number of hooks, it is necessary to divide the length of the cornice into equal parts, not exceeding 60 cm. Before this, you will need to indent from the edge by 50 mm.
Additional brackets. The funnel installed at the corner of the building is equipped with another additional holder. If the funnel is placed in the center of the wall, two such holders will be required.
Two pairs of gutter plugs. Each branch is decorated with two stubs.
Upper and lower knees, 2 pcs. From them, branches of risers are constructed.
Two short pipes to connect the knees. They are used if the overhangs of the eaves exceed the parameter of 25 cm. The pipe sections are measured and cut at the installation site. If the width of the cornice overhang is less than 25 cm, the knees are joined directly to each other.
Pipes for risers. To determine their length, measure the distance from the eaves to the ground. In this case, the length of the drain and drain is subtracted. The ground surface and the riser must be separated by at least 20 cm.
Mounting brackets. Two of them will be required: one - on the lower knee, the second - on the drain of the riser. The rest of the fasteners make out each connection of the drainage system, with a step of at least 150 cm. See also: "".

To calculate the drainage scheme of a house with an attic, the same method is used. The same applies to equipping multi-tiered pitched roofs with drains, where each slope is calculated separately. To determine the number of elements and fasteners for half-hip and hip roof, will face additional difficulties. In this case, you will need to purchase at least four corner pieces and two connectors-compensators. Compensating and connectors function on the same principle as linear elements. However, in this case, such compensators must be installed in each closed circuit.

At the same stage, it is necessary to determine the diameter of the future structure. Gutter accessories are produced in a number of standard sizes, in order to avoid overflowing during the removal of atmospheric precipitation. According to the technical recommendations, each m2 of the roof should be equipped with downpipes with a cross section of 1.5 cm square. This coefficient is averaged for the central regions of our country. To accurately select the standard size of the drainage system, you first need to determine what area of \u200b\u200bthe roof can be served by one funnel. Since private houses rarely have a slope area of more than 80 m2, most often pipes with a cross section of 100 mm are used to install gutters, with the possibility of adjusting this parameter in one direction or another.

Installation of gutters, gutters and pipes by example

For ease of understanding, it is better to analyze a specific example in which the drain is mounted on long metal brackets after laying the roofing material. Thanks to the use of cement tiles, it is possible to dismantle the bottom row of laying.

In our case, the gutters of the drainage system will be installed on two separate slopes 12 m long. The gable overhangs in this example will have a width of 50 cm. The funnel is mounted in such a way that the riser attached to it is 10 cm from the corner.

First, long brackets are fixed:

Performing a preliminary fitting, with the application of the outer holder to the installation area.
Fold line drawing. In this case, the roofing should go onto the gutter by about 1/3. As soon as the required point is found, the bracket leg is labeled.
Determining the slope with respect to the funnel. If it is necessary to slope each meter of the eaves by 3 mm, the total height is determined by multiplying 3 mm by 12. The resulting parameter of 36 mm shows the difference in the height of the bends on the extreme hooks.
Drawing a fold line. This is done by laying out the required number of brackets in one line, drawing an inclined line on their legs.
Numbering of marked brackets.
Bending of gutter holders. The easiest option is to use a vise. Work must be carried out carefully to avoid damage to the anti-corrosion layer.
Fastening of two extreme holders on the surface of the crate.
Stretch between them one or two control lines. One of them is used to indicate the bottom, the second indicates the top points.
Installation of the remaining brackets on stretched fishing lines.

This stage is the most difficult. Next, prepare the gutter and funnel for installation. For this, a fitting of that section of the gutter is carried out, on which the riser will be fastened by means of a funnel. To determine the exact location for making a hole for the funnel, she puts it on over the gutter.

After outlining the contours of the funnel with a marker, the niche is cut out with a hacksaw, followed by cleaning the cut edges with sandpaper. For fixing the funnel on the gutter, special snap-in boards are provided.

We build a gutter

First you need to assemble the transition between the horizontal and vertical sections of the drainage system. In the presence of narrow cornices, it is enough to connect the upper and lower knees for this.

Wide cornices will require additional work:

Connection of the funnel branch pipe with the upper elbow by adhesive method.
Additional sample. It is carried out by applying the lower knee to the installation site. A ruler is used to determine the distance between the knees.
To calculate the total length of the connecting section, plus the distance between the elbows, the height of the nozzle of the upper elbow and the height of the opposite part of the lower elbow.
Cutting and cleaning material.
Transition assembly. It is important to note the point where the upper collar fits. After that, the adapter is again disassembled to install the clamp. At final assembly clamp, all its parts are smeared with glue.
Marking the locations of the riser clamps. Couplings are used to connect polymer drainpipes, each of which is equipped with a separate clamp.
Docking elements of the riser. In this case, you need to move from top to bottom. When installing couplings inside the sockets, 10-15 mm are left for compensatory expansion.
Clamp tightening. This should not be done very tightly - the pipes should be able to move.
Downpipe drain installation. To do this, use waterproof glue.

When draining rainwater into the storm sewer, the riser can not be equipped with a drain. In this scheme, the pipe is simply left above the sewer intake at a distance of 50-100 mm. To prevent the system from becoming clogged, the gutters on top are covered with gratings. There is also an option with the installation of protective nets on the funnels.

Rain and melt water can cause significant damage to the site and the foundation of the house. Therefore, in the territory suburban area it is necessary to take care of the installation of storm sewers, the house part of which is a drainage system that plays a major role in protecting the foundation and walls of the house from water erosion.

The drain is a system of funnels and gutters, as well as vertical drain pipes, the purpose of which is to collect and divert atmospheric water from house roofs.

Drainage systems are divided into 2 main types, which differ in the place where the drainpipes pass.

It is applicable in regions where very cold winters are typical, as well as for buildings with a flat roof. In the case of using such a drain on the roof, a slope of 1-2% is made, at the lowest point of which there is a catchment funnel connected to a storm drain passing inside the building. The riser is connected to a branch, which carries water into the collector. Such a drainage system removes atmospheric moisture into storm sewer.

Note! The drainpipe must not pass close to outer wall buildings to prevent freezing of moisture in the pipe.

Roofs with a slope equip external drainage system, which includes gutters connected by funnels to drain pipes, turning into a drain outlet that removes water from the building. The outlet can be connected to the storm system of the site.

Whatever the type of drain, its design and installation is carried out before the end of the construction of the house. It is a mistake to assume that the installation of an external drainage system can be carried out after the completion of the installation of the roof.

Drainage system design

For private houses, the most common is the outdoor gutter system. It is simpler and not so difficult to mount with your own hands. However, its installation is preceded by design. When drawing up a project, it is necessary to take into account the type and area of \u200b\u200bthe roof, the material of the roof, the financial capabilities of the owner, as well as appearance Houses.

These indicators are important not only for determining the number of necessary elements of the drainage system, but also the material from which they are made.

In addition to the choice of material, at the design stage it is necessary to determine the quantity structural elements and drainage system. It depends on the configuration of the roof and the length of its overhang:

each slope must be equipped with a chute;
if the length of the overhang does not exceed 10 m, then one downpipe at the end of each gutter is sufficient;
with a longer overhang, the gutter should have a drain at each end.

Based on these data, a diagram is drawn up on paper that reflects all the elements of the drain on your house.

Materials and tools

After you make a drawing of your house with a future drainage system, you can start purchasing materials and preparing the necessary tools.

Depending on the size configuration of the house and roof, you may need the following items:

gutters, which can be semicircular, rectangular and trapezoidal;
external and internal corners for gutters;
connecting locks;
plugs;
funnels;
pipes for drains;
swivel elbows for downpipes;
outlet for draining;
clamps for fixing the drain (at least 1 for every 200 cm of pipe);
hooks for mounting gutters (1 for every 60 cm of plastic or 80 cm of metal gutter).

Note! If the roof area is less than 80 m 2 , then the diameter of the pipes can be 10 cm, for a house up to 150 m 2 it is necessary to purchase pipes with a cross section of 14 cm.

For comfortable and properly done work, you will need tools such as:

building level;
measuring tape and a simple pencil;
hacksaw, knife with a sharp end and blade
hammer with rubber and metal striker;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws.

And do not forget to prepare a reliable ladder.

Gutter installation. Step-by-step instruction

Installation of the drainage system starts from the highest point.

Step 1 . The first step is to prepare fasteners for the gutters or mark their future location. This stage, like the installation of fasteners itself, occurs before the installation of the roof. Fasteners can be mounted to the frontal board or rafters.

In the first case, you can use simple metal brackets. The places of their installations are marked on the frontal board in order to maintain the required slope of 2-3 mm for each meter of the gutter.

For fastening to the rafters, metal brackets are used, equipped with extension cords. To do this, the angle of inclination is marked on the mounts themselves, and the bracket extensions are bent according to the mark.

Step 2. Attach the brackets to the selected locations. In this case, the first and last hooks are mounted at a distance of 0.15 m from the edge of the house. Before installing hooks to the frontal board, it is mentally necessary to extend the roof. From it to the outer edge of the gutter should be a quarter of a meter. Given this, determine the place of attachment of the first fastener.

When installing the hook on the rafter, it is necessary to prepare a groove under it so that the fasteners are mounted flush.

Step 3. At this stage, they begin to prepare the gutters. If the gutters do not have holes for funnels or a direct junction with a downpipe, then they are cut out with a hacksaw. Funnels are inserted into the prepared holes. Plastic funnels are fixed with glue, and metal ones with special clamps. PVC gutters can be connected to each other with locks, and plugs can be installed at the ends before installation to the house.

Step 4. The gutters, individually or the already assembled plastic structure, are mounted on hooks, secured with fixing elements.

Step 5. Clamps on pins are attached to the wall of the house at the place where the drain is installed, removing the pipe from the wall by at least 30 mm to protect the house from moisture.

Step 6. A connecting elbow is attached to each funnel, and an already assembled downpipe is attached to it. At the bottom of the drain, a branch is installed, which should rise above the ground by at least 0.3 m.

Step 7. Fix the pipe to the wall with the help of clamps.

Gutter installation completed.

Video - The process of installing a drain

The discharge drain can be connected to the storm sewer, this is especially true for areas with heavy rainfall. A simpler option is to collect wastewater in a container with further use atmospheric water for irrigation. You can directly bring the pipe to the plantations, but the exit should be no closer than one and a half meters from the foundation of the building.

Ensuring good drainage of liquid from the roof is a very important part of building a house. We propose to consider how correct installation do-it-yourself roof gutters, step by step instructions and installation diagrams, as well as the price of parts.

Information about drainage systems

Installation of a drain in a country house or at home should be carried out according to a special technology, it depends on the material from which the gutter is made. If plastic is used for the barillet material, then it must be cut with a special nozzle for the grinder, so you can do the job as accurately as possible. After cutting with a file, it is necessary to clean the processing areas. In the event that your drain consists of metal parts, it must be cut with special scissors, and at the end of the work, lubricate the metal with a primer and paint for outdoor work.

Photo - Drainage scheme

Self-installation of a drain includes the following stages:

Project evaluation and planning. Before installing gutters, you need to carefully check the surface of the building. Inspect the panel and soffits for signs of rotted wood, chipped boards, rusty planks and panels. In order to ensure a thorough view, you must remove all decorative elements, crowns and protective grilles.

Photo - Conclusion of the drain.

Its development. Draw a sketch and measure the house. The photo shows an approximate drainage system for a typical house with gable roof. Record the length of the system and mark where the downpipe will be installed. After that, you need to calculate the number of internal and outside corners and stubs (note whether they are right- or left-ended). Measure the height of the downspouts and add 1 meter of gutter to install the junction at the ground. On residential buildings, three cubits at the barillet must be used. There are two types of elbows. Most installations only need the front elbows, but sometimes to make a drain on broken roof you need to work out the lateral elbow.

Here some planning tips:

Before starting work, you need to find suitable profile gutters. It can be a circle, a semicircle or a rectangle. Experts advise using a semicircle for roof drains, and a circle for organizing water flow.
Mark on the drawing where you will place the roof gutters. If the exterior is very important to you, then you can arrange built-in gutters on the roof. Tip: it is easiest to mount pipes in a hinged way.
Calculate the slope of the drain, the norms depend on its material, especially if you are installing high drains.

Video: installation diagram of the drainage system

Step-by-step instruction

Gutter manufacturing

Cut the barillet of the selected profile to reduce the length. Bend the gutters, cut out the bottom. It is much more convenient to assemble individual parts of the drainage system on the ground than with suspension fixtures. All knees need to be secured with sealant, the seam should be at least 5 centimeters, this will help minimize the likelihood of breaking the downpipe. In the photo you can see how to fix corner structures.

Photo - Drain Elbows

Many installers also cover connections special composition, which increases the corrosion resistance of the metal.

In places where the gutter ends, it must be shortened by approximately 2-5 centimeters, this is necessary to ensure maximum drain pressure. Then attach the end cap with rivets to the gutter and connect it from the inside to the drainage system using sealant.

Photo - Components of the drain

Add Downspouts and Overlays (Gutters)

Mark the location of the center of the downpipe rosette at the bottom of the gutter. After that, cut a V-shaped section on the pipe, and use a flange to strengthen the hole, then install the socket. The same action must be done in each pipe where a socket is planned.

The next step is to set the slope.

The number and size of the drain determines how quickly the gutters will drain water. If you do not equip the slope, then the water will stagnate in some areas, which will lead to corrosion. The slope is 0.7-0.9 mm for every 3 meters of the system. If the front boards of the house are on the same level, you can use them as the basis for sloped gutters. Check this by holding the level against the bottom edge. If they are not at the same level, then you will need to adjust the slope line until it matches the desired indicator.

Photo - Drain funnel

Mount spotlights

To prevent water from flowing under the edges of the roof, you need to install spotlights. The cheapest protective devices are made of plastic and siding, the most durable and durable are made of aluminum.

Add hidden brackets

Install hangers every 60 centimeters to support the drain and reinforce the front edge of the structure. To do this, use a drill to make a hole, then use construction screws to fix the canopies. You may need swivel devices to mount track barillets.

Attach gutter barillettes

Now the elbow is being installed to the outlet. On each side of the pipe, leave 5-7 centimeters for safety net. After installation, use a hacksaw to remove the unnecessary section of the pipe.

Photo - Connection of gutters

After graduation installation work, with the help of plastic gratings, it is necessary to protect the open places of the pipes from leaves, dust and other contaminants. If you have hidden drains, then you can cover the installation sites with soft bituminous tiles. The same technology is used for sidewalk drains.

In addition to the installation of gratings, the installation of heaters is carried out. They are necessary to protect gutters from damage due to temperature changes, and if water freezes in the pipe, the operation of the gutter deteriorates significantly. For heating, power cables are used, which are mounted over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe drain. Such an anti-icing system is also used for organizing water supply, heating metal tiles and other roofing in winter.

Photo - Drainage Protection

Rules for installing metal gutters:

Fasteners must be fastened to wooden rafter legs with a distance of 50 centimeters (10% error allowed).
We start laying the gutters from the funnel (the final parts of the drainage systems). They can be interconnected using glue, sealant, ventilation couplings;
Water, when draining from the roof, should fall into the center of the gutters. This is the main secret of professional craftsmen;
If you need to remove liquid from the under-roof space, then you will need to lay a drip. It is mounted on the rafters, covered with waterproofing.

The technology of installation and location of gutters on the roof depends entirely on the material used. Once every six months, clean the drains from dirt and leaves, wipe the attachment points with an anti-corrosion compound. Every year, a complete restoration of the system is carried out: painting, checking, if necessary, welding the seams.

Photo - Polluted drains

Price overview

Installing simple gutters with your own hands is quite easy, but if you do not have the proper experience, then it is better to seek help from specialists. We propose to consider what is the cost of installing gutters in different cities of the CIS (the price list is taken from the websites of the most popular companies in Russia):

Photo - Gutter around the perimeter of the house

The most popular brands of rectangular and round gutters for country houses: Devi, EKAROS P.V.M. AS, Flamingo, Murol. They are sold at dealerships and partner stores. The same brands are often installed for skylights. It is better to buy drainpipes in bulk, the delivery is carried out at the expense of the seller company.

A properly executed roof reliably protects the building from the penetration of moisture into a residential attic or onto cold attic. Flowing down its slopes, water can fall on the walls and foundation of the building. To prevent this, the roofing system must be supplemented with an effective drainage system. To ensure the normal operation of such a system, it must be properly calculated and installed. All this can be done on your own, but first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology for performing work and the recommendations of specialists.

How to install roof gutters

Before you start installing the drainage system, you need to decide whether you will buy industrial gutters or make them yourself. If you have certain skills, then all the elements of the drainage system can be made independently. For this, galvanized steel is usually used. But they resort to this method quite rarely, since in addition to certain abilities and experience, significant time and labor will be required here. It is much easier to buy ready-made products and install them yourself.

According to the material of manufacture, drainage systems are divided into two types.

Plastic drainage system. Its elements can be connected with glue or rubber seals. Plastic does not give in to corrosion, has a small weight, the elements are easy to mount, and they are available in a wide variety color solutions. Its disadvantages are that the mechanical strength is not very high, damaged plastic elements cannot be repaired, and if the connection is made using rubber parts, then they will need to be changed periodically.
Plastic gutter systems are widely used due to corrosion resistance, low weight and ease of installation.
Metal drainage system. For its manufacture, galvanized steel is usually used, which can be coated with a polymer, much less often gutters are made of copper. The elements of such a system are characterized by high strength, they withstand heavy loads and have a low coefficient of expansion. The disadvantages of such a system are its high cost, high weight and complexity of installation. If the protective polymer layer is damaged, then rust begins to appear. In addition, metal products are presented in a much smaller number of colors.
A metal gutter system has more weight than a plastic one, but it has a longer service life

It cannot be said that one or another drainage system is better, it all depends on the operating conditions and the region in which the building is located. The plastic system has a large number of various elements, so it is more convenient to use it when creating a system of complex configuration. Metal gutters look beautiful, last a long time, but their installation is more difficult.

It is easier to install the drainage system before laying the roofing material. For the correct performance of this work, you must adhere to the following recommendations.

Installation must be carried out at a certain temperature depending on the material:
- plastic elements - more than 5 o C;
- metal products coated with plastisol or ceramic granules - more than 10 o C;
- metal treated with pural - 5 o C and above.
In relation to the roof, the gutter must be mounted with a slope. It can be organized in one (with a roof length of less than 12 m) or in two directions. The standard slope should be 3-5 mm per 1 m of length towards the storm water inlet. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a distance between storm water inlets no more than 24 m.
If the length of the building is less than 12 m, then the slope of the drains can be done in one direction, otherwise it is necessary to install gutters with an inclination from the center of the wall to each of its corners
The holders must be placed at the same distance from each other. For a plastic drain, fasteners are installed after a maximum of 50 cm, and for a metal one - after 60 cm. The holders begin to be installed from the top point and gradually move towards the bottom.
The gutter should be positioned so that the edge of the roof protrudes 35-50% of its width.
The edge of the gutter must be at least 3 cm below the roof plane, otherwise it may be torn off during snow sliding
You can cut the elements of the drain only in the way recommended by the manufacturer. Plastic elements are cut with a hacksaw with fine teeth, metal - with a hacksaw for metal. It is impossible to use an angle grinder for products with a polymer coating, since during its operation intense heating and destruction of the coating occur.
In no case should you cut a polymer-coated gutter with a grinder
Drain pipe holders must be installed at least every 2 m, and with a house height of more than 10 m - every 1.5 m.
It is necessary to correctly and reliably connect the elements. Plastic parts are joined with glue, rubber seals and latches. Metal elements can be fastened to each other with latches or rubber seals. The drain pipe should not reach the ground by 25–40 cm.
When connecting the gutters between them, it is necessary to leave a compensation gap for the thermal expansion of the material

Do-it-yourself installation of gutters

By doing self installation gutter system will need the following set of tools:

Usually the installation of the drainage system is carried out during the construction of the building, before the roofing material is laid. Consider the sequence of these works in more detail.

Mounting of brackets in compliance with the slope and step of their installation.
Funnel installation. These elements are located in those places where drain risers are installed. Funnels also connect plastic gutters. In the place of the gutter where the funnel will be attached to it, make a hole and clean the edges well. Glue is used to fix the funnels. In order to prevent debris from entering the drain pipe, a protective mesh is installed on the funnel, which must be periodically cleaned of debris.
It is imperative to install a protective mesh on the funnel, otherwise the drain pipe will become clogged with debris
Gutter installation. These elements can be semicircular or rectangular in shape. Brackets are selected depending on the shape of the gutters, after which they are simply put on ready-made mounts. The edge of the drain, which is not used, must be closed with a plug, its tightness is ensured by a rubber seal. It is recommended to install brackets on both sides of the connection to avoid sagging of the drainage system.
Depending on the type of gutter, the type of bracket is selected
Drain connection. In order to connect two gutters to each other, special additional elements are used, which are put on the ends of adjacent drains. A distance of about 3-5 mm should remain between the gutters, it is necessary to ensure possible deformations of the elements. This is especially important for plastic parts, as they have a large coefficient of expansion.
Knee assembly. Elbows, as well as gutters, can have a semicircular or rectangular shape and are selected in accordance with the shape installed gutters. The knee is put on the funnel from below, it will direct water into the drain pipe. It is necessary to choose the required angle of the knee, although there are usually no problems with this, since the choice of such elements is quite large.
If the length of the elbow is not enough, then an additional piece of pipe is installed between it and the drain pipe
Installation of risers. The elbow is connected to the riser pipe and fixed with clamps to the brackets installed on the wall of the building. If one pipe is not enough, it is extended, for which one more or more elements of the required length are attached.
The maximum distance between riser fixings cannot exceed 2 m
Mounting clamps. Usually these elements are made in the form of two arcs that cover the pipe, after which they are fixed with bolts. To attach the clamp to a wooden wall, a pin is used, and to a brick wall, a dowel is used, for which a hole is first made.
Clamps consist of two arcs that cover the pipe and tighten it with clamps
Drain installation. This element is the final one; in its appearance it looks like a knee. The drain is mounted at the very bottom of the pipe, with its help the incoming water will be diverted from the foundation of the building. It is recommended that there be no more than 40 cm from the edge of the drain to the blind area.

Video: installing gutters

Installation of ebbs

Of great importance for protecting the house from moisture is the correct installation of ebbs on the windows. These are metal or plastic strips that are mounted on the outside of the house on the lower part of the window opening.

Outflows are made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating or plastic

Each window should have an ebb, which is popularly called the outer window sill. In addition to protecting the walls from moisture, these elements also give the house a beautiful and finished look.

The installation sequence of the ebb consists of several steps.

Taking measurements and determining the required size of the ebb. For the manufacture of ebbs, galvanized steel is used; it can also be coated with a polymer or plastic. Such an element must have a bend corresponding to the shape of the window near which it is installed, as well as bends on the sides and bottom. The ebb should protrude 3–5 cm beyond the wall and be inclined towards the street in order to ensure free flow of water through the lower drip. In order for the water to drain well and quickly, the slope must be of the order of 10 o.
The ebb length is standard, and its width is selected for each window sill separately
Cleaning the installation site from debris.
Fixing the ebb with self-tapping screws to the lower profile of the window.
For reliable fixation of the ebb, the screws are installed in increments of 40-45 cm
Filling the space between the window sill and the ebb mounting foam, which, after hardening, firmly fixes this element, and also provides reliable sound and heat insulation. During solidification, the ebb must be pressed with a heavy object so that the expanding foam does not lift it during the solidification process.
The tide should be tilted away from the window so that water can drain well from it.
Sealing the junction of the ebb and window frame with silicone sealant.

During the installation of the ebb, it is necessary to ensure that its side bends go under the slopes so that water does not fall on the wall. It is recommended to install ebbs before external slopes are formed.

How to properly attach the hooks of the drainage system

Before moving on to fixing the hooks, it is necessary to make markings to ensure the angle of inclination of the drainage system. Thanks to the slope, water will flow towards the riser and be effectively removed from the roof.

Attachment of long hooks

Installation of hooks for gutters is carried out before laying the roofing material. This is due to the fact that they are installed under the roof and after laying it, long hooks cannot be fixed.

The installation sequence for long hooks will be as follows.

If only short hooks are available, then there is nothing to worry about. Their installation is carried out in a similar way, but if in the first case the hooks were attached to the crate or rafters, then here they are fixed on the end plane or on the cornice board.

Short hooks can be mounted after laying the roofing material

Short hooks are usually installed after the roof has been installed. Universal holders can also be used, which, if necessary, are attached both as short and as long hooks.

Video: hook mounting features

Common Mistakes

If the design and installation of the drainage system is approached inattentively, certain mistakes can be made, due to which it will not be able to fully perform its functions:

horizontal installation of gutters leads to the fact that water remains in the gutter, and in winter period there it freezes;
a large release of roofing material above the gutter and leads to the fact that during heavy rainfall, water does not enter the catchment area;
too close the location of the drain pipe to the wall of the house causes the wall to constantly get wet;
insufficient number of brackets leads to sagging of the gutter, due to which water accumulates in this place;
poor-quality assembly violates the tightness of the structure, so water gets on the walls.

Installation of internal drains

The composition of the internal drainage system includes the following main elements:

water intake funnel;
riser;
outlet pipe;
release.

In order for this system to work at any time of the year, water inlets should not be installed near the outer walls of the house, otherwise winter time they will freeze.

Installation internal drain performed in a certain sequence.

Funnel installation. If the floor slabs are already installed, then funnels can be mounted. If there is no overlap yet, then you need to start with the installation of risers. The funnel is connected to the riser using a compensating socket, so that the connection does not break during external deformations.
The internal drainage system is usually equipped on flat roofs where there is no natural drainage of water due to the slope of the slopes
Installation of risers and pipes for draining water from funnels. Pipes connecting funnels and risers must be laid with a slope. The diameter of the riser must be equal to or greater than the diameter of the funnel. If the diameter of the pipes is not more than 110 mm, then they go in coils and run from top to bottom. At large sizes pipes are installed from the bottom up. Risers are fixed every 2-3 meters.
Internal drain risers must be fixed every 3 m maximum
Laying of horizontal pipelines. Their installation is carried out in the same way as sewer pipes, but the slope is about 2–8 mm per meter. For pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, cleaning is installed after 10 m, and if their diameter is 100–150 mm, then after 15 m.
Horizontal pipes of the internal drain are mounted in the same way as sewer pipes, but with a smaller slope

Internal drainage systems can be of the following types:

gravity - the collection and discharge of water is carried out along the gutters located with a slope. Such a system is only partially filled with water;
siphon - completely filled with water, which enters the funnel, and then into the riser. Due to the resulting rarefaction, the forced removal of water occurs, so this method is more effective.

Video: how to install a water intake funnel

The system of external drainage of water from the roof can be:

unorganized. In this case, the water descends arbitrarily, this method is usually used for small outbuildings;
organized. Water is collected in gutters, after which it is discharged outside the building through drain pipes.

When creating an external drain, the gutters are attached using special brackets that you can make yourself, but it is better to purchase ready-made ones.

When creating an external drain, the gutters must be attached at a slope, this will ensure effective removal water coming from the roof. It is not difficult to create an external drainage system with your own hands. Now on sale there are all necessary elements. It is enough to draw up a diagram and calculate how many and what elements are needed, after which you can simply and quickly install them.

It is quite possible to mount an external drainage system with your own hands, because all the necessary components are on sale to facilitate this process.

Installation of an external drainage system is carried out in the following order.

Calculation of the required amount of materials. It is necessary to determine the number of holders, gutters, drain pipes and elbows.
Marking places for attaching hooks. After the attachment points are marked, the hooks are bent to the required angle and fixed.
Preparation of sites for funnels. Holes for the funnels are prepared in the gutters, after which they are fixed.
During installation, all connections must be made tight so that water from pipes and gutters does not fall on the walls of the house
Gutter laying. The gutters with installed funnels are placed in holders and fixed.
Installation of drain pipes. They are attached to the wall using special brackets.
Connection of drain pipes and funnels. With the help of knees required angle slope, the drain pipe and funnel are connected.
For a funnel, a hole is made in the gutter, the edges of which are well cleaned to make a tight connection

A properly executed external drainage system reliably protects the roof, walls and foundation of the building from water penetration into them. In the cold season, during frequent thaws, the drain pipes of the drains may freeze, so the water will not be removed effectively. To avoid such a problem, you can install the heating of these elements. For this, a self-regulating or resistive cable is used, which is attached to gutters and pipes. Passing through the cable electricity causes it to heat up, as a result of which the elements of the drainage system remain warm, so the water in them does not freeze.

Video: heating gutters and drain pipes

The main requirements for the drainage system are the removal of water from the roof of the house, as well as high strength, tightness and long service life. It is necessary to rely on such a system to be able to withstand heavy loads; in winter, a large amount of ice can accumulate on it. In order for the self-installed system to meet all the requirements, it is necessary to correctly calculate it, and then carry out the installation in compliance with the developed technologies.

The drainage system of the house is a rather serious construction, which requires accurate calculation and competent installation, where special attention is paid to the fastening of elements. The drainage of water from the roof of the house itself consists of two sections - horizontal and vertical. The first consists of gutters (trays), which are installed along the edges of the roofing material. It is in them that water merges from the roof in the form of rain or melted snow. The second is vertical pipes connected to the trays using a funnel. Through them, water is drained either into the ground away from the foundation of the house, or into the storm sewer. Usually, the installation of the gutter is started before the roof is covered. roofing material . But sometimes the installation is carried out after the roof is covered, for example, when the old drain has become unusable during long-term operation and it is replaced with a new one. In the two cases, the installation is done differently. And the difference is in the attachment.

Types of fasteners for gutters

As for the installation and fixing of the trays, brackets in the form of hooks are used for this. There are a huge number of different modifications, but they are all divided into two large groups: long and short. The first are designed to attach the drain to the roof, namely to the crate or rafter legs. The second to the frontal board. By the way, it is the latter that are used when the roof is already covered with roofing material.

Today, manufacturers of Eastern systems offer universal mounting brackets, the leg of which is two plates with a through groove. Both parts are interconnected by a bolt and a nut through a groove. That is, relative to this bolt, you can reduce or increase the length of the legs. When the required length is reached, the bolt is clamped, which leads to the fixation of the length.

Hooks with a long leg are also used for roofs already covered with roofing material. True, in this case they are attached not to the rafters or batten elements, but to the filing of the cornice overhang. This option does not fit into the recommendations for the construction of drainage systems. And the appearance of the cornice filing is clearly reduced in terms of presentability. But sometimes this is the only and rational way to fix gutters.

There are other fasteners for gutters of drainage systems, which are the same hook, only in their design there are other mounting elements. One of these is a bracket, the leg of which is rotated 90 ° relative to the hook. This model is usually used if the roofing material already lies on rafter system, and it will have to be attached to the rafter leg, or rather to its side end. Most often, this variety belongs to the "long" group. It is necessary to fasten the hook to the rafter with at least two self-tapping screws. The only requirement for this variety is that it can be used if the rafter legs have a sufficient cross section, for example, 150x50 or 120x50 mm.

Rules for fastening drainage elements

The simplest process of attaching a drainage system is associated with the installation of vertical pipes. For this, special clamps made of metal or plastic are used. A purely structural fastener for pipes is a clamp with a stand or leg. The latter are attached to the wall using self-tapping screws on plastic dowels. At the installation site of the fastener, it is necessary to drill holes with a drill or a puncher, insert dowels into them, attach a clamp and fasten it with one or two self-tapping screws. The connection is reliable.

The choice of clamps depends on how the drain will pass through the house. More often pipes are carried out directly along the wall with a snug fit to its plane. For this, short clamps are used, which are attached to the wall through a rounded plane or through a short stand. If there are protrusions in the architecture of the building, then sometimes it is necessary to carry out installation at a short distance from the surface of the walls. To do this, fasteners on the legs are used.

Attention! Fixing the drain to the wall is the easiest step in assembling the entire system. But they carry it out last, that is, after assembling the horizontal tray part.

Attachment to front board

The frontal or wind board is installed at the ends of the rafter legs. It protects the space between these roof elements from wind, dust, birds and insects. Attaching the gutter to this board is the easiest way to mount them. The board is in plain sight, the approach to it is not limited by anything, so there should be no problems.

In this case, both long and short brackets can be used to fix drains. The former are used if the board is wide enough to fit the mounting legs of the hooks. More often used short models. A practical example is shown in the photo below:

As for the “short” modifications, manufacturers today offer several positions that differ from each other in the installation bar. In this regard, plastic models are represented by a wider list than metal ones. The latter are usually standard designs made from steel strip. But there are also special metal structures on the market, which are a hook with a small stand in which there are no mounting holes. That is, the bracket itself is not attached to the frontal board. A metal tire is attached to it, into which they are inserted. On this rail, the hooks can be moved along the eaves, setting them at the required distance from each other.

This option is convenient in that it is easier to install the tire itself at a certain angle than to do it with each element separately. After all, the drain is a gravity flow system. So, it should be installed with an angle of inclination equal to 2–7 °. At the same time, the joint of the bracket bus is quite strong and reliable, therefore, by installing it, you can guarantee the long-term operation of the gutter system at home.

The next type of brackets differs from others in the ability to change the angle of inclination of the hook itself. The latter is connected to the stand with a pin in the form of a bolt. That is, a swivel joint is used. The angle of inclination is changed by bolted thrust elements. If it is necessary to increase the inclination of the hook, then the bolts are screwed in, pressing on the delivery. And vice versa . When changing the inclination, the hinge bolt must be loosened, after setting the angle it is tightened. This modification is used when installed on an inclined frontal board, or if the installation of the gutter system is carried out on log house.

Fastening to roofing material

Brackets for attaching gutters to roofing material have appeared on the market relatively recently. They can only be used if the roof is covered with a strong and rigid roofing material. Mounting method - on clamps (clamps), with the help of which the hooks are fixed along the edge of the roof.

Today, manufacturers offer two varieties of this bracket model:

For clamps, it is necessary to drill holes in the roofing.
Without drilling holes, clamping is made additionally with a screw.

Let's take a closer look at the second option for fixing gutters:

The nuances of installing gutters when using this type of hook:

the distance from the edge of the roofing material to the place of the jam is within 5 cm;
if a modification is used without drilling the roof, then it is recommended to place rubber gaskets under the support planes of the clamp (both from the top side and from the bottom);
if the installation is carried out to the wave material, then the installation can be carried out both to the lower waves and to the upper ones, taking into account the exact location of the clamp relative to the height of the wave;
it is better to give preference to plastic brackets, as they are lighter, since the load from the entire drainage system on the roofing material, together with the discharged water, will be impressive, which can lead to a break in the latter.

Combined variant

These types of fasteners for gutters are a structure consisting of two parts: a short plastic hook and a long L-shaped holder, the short part of which is rotated by 90 ° relative to the long one. Holes are drilled in the short part or a groove is made through which the hook and holder are fastened together. Holes are also made in the long part of the holder for fastening the structure to the rafter leg.

How to do this correctly is shown in the example of attaching a drain to a roof overhang:

This option is sometimes the only one. For example, if the roof covering extends beyond the rafter legs to a distance of 15–20 cm. Of course, you can use a clamp modification, but the roofing material does not always allow this.

Universal option

This design is a pull-up element, which is located inside the gutter. Trays in this regard are attached to it with the help of bends located on the bracket itself. One fold clings to the outer edge of the tray, the other to the inner. A bushing is installed in the fastener with internal thread. A screw is inserted into it, with which both products are attached to each other and to the wall.

This model is rarely used. But, as a fastener for trays, it belongs to the category of universal, because with its help installation can be carried out both on the frontal board, and on the wall, and on the rafter legs.

Other ways to install brackets

There are other ways to fix the gutters of the drainage system with your own hands. Because it is not always possible to install them along the rafters, crate or frontal board.

Mounting method	Description
On the wall	Usually this option is used for installation on mansard roof already covered with roofing material. The main task of the manufacturer of works is to accurately mark the installation site.
On spotlights	The option is not the best, but sometimes the only one. The main thing is that there must be a certain width of the spotlights, corresponding to the length of the holder. Often combined designs are used here.
On metal pins	This option is used in two cases: if there is no frontal board in the roof structure, the width of the soffit or filing of the cornice overhang is too narrow.

The last installation option is simple and has several options. If gutters are installed on wooden house, then the metal pins (with one sharp end) are simply driven into the wood. If the house is brick or concrete, then first holes are drilled in the wall with a perforator to the required depth, where the cement-sand mixture is placed, and only then the pin is hammered. Installation of gutters can only be carried out after the fastening solution has completely dried..

Video tutorials on fixing gutters

The nuances of fastening elements of the drain

The slope angle of the gutters is 3–7°.
The distance between the fasteners of the gutters is 50–60 cm.
The distance between the clamps of the drain pipes is 1.8-2.0 m. If the installation height exceeds 10 m, then the mounting step of the clamps is reduced to 1.5 m.

Conclusion

Before you fix the gutters with your own hands, you need to accurately carry out all the installation measurements and decide on the types of brackets. By choosing one or another installation option, you solve the issue of not only saving Money but also the strength of the entire structure.