Show how to make a small concrete mixer yourself. Homemade concrete mixer or make the solution effortlessly. Forced mixing of the solution

Can you imagine a construction site without even a small concrete mixer? Without such a unit, the preparation of a good cement mortar becomes almost impossible. When it becomes necessary to build a small structure or just “pat up” something, concreting becomes a popular task. That's just short list situations in which you can not do without this tool: filling garden paths, arranging the foundation for the gazebo, installing a fence and so on. In a word, concrete is needed everywhere - the difference is only in the scale of the event. For household needs it is pointless to buy an industrial apparatus - the purchase will cost you prohibitively expensive. An alternative solution would be a do-it-yourself homemade concrete mixer. Thanks to this article, you will learn how to make it yourself from improvised materials.

Four principles of concrete mixing

Homemade concrete mixer

In fact, you can prepare your solution without special devices. Many even like to work “according to the old method”. But how much can you do this way? You can still create a dry mix for construction using a conventional drill or mixer. But when it comes to sand and cement, they are powerless.

The simplest and most common mixing principle is called forced mixing. All components are kneaded in a container that is stationary. For this, a mechanical drive is usually used. The working drum can be positioned vertically or horizontally.

Drawing of a horizontal concrete mixer

Despite the fact that even a small forced-action concrete mixer can be very effective, it also has its drawbacks:

• There are "dead zones" in the tank. This is especially true of the space near the walls.
• The complexity of the design. The pivot points must be hermetically sealed against the action of the solution, which can be aggressive.
• It is practically impossible to prepare a solution in such a unit, which includes medium and large filler.

The second principle is called gravitational. In this case, all components are mixed due to gravity. In industry, this method is rarely used, as it requires a lot of time and effort. Barrels that are made of metal are most often used as containers. How they are made, how to make a stand, will be described below.

Most modern concrete mixers use combined principle combining the first two methods. They have the following benefits:

• Strict sealing is not required. The drum is open at the top, there is no need for rotation nodes, since any contact with the solution is excluded.
• Parts wear out much less often.
• Simplicity and reliability of operation.
• There are no restrictions on the composition of the solution either - it can be gravel, expanded clay, gravel, and so on.

The fourth mixing principle is called vibrational. Recently, some craftsmen have been mixing the solution using vibration. If we talk about large-scale volumes, the results can be the most stunning. Usually, the vibratory mixing principle is used when it is necessary to produce an accurate reinforced concrete structure with good performance.

IN normal conditions the gearbox and the drive are replaced by the most powerful hammer drill (permissible minimum 1.3 kW). Its vibrational action must be independent. It is not necessary to press the cartridge.

Concrete mixer gearbox photo

In general, vibratory mixing allows you to create an almost perfect concrete mix. However, for the preparation of a "heavy" solution, it is also not optimal.

Concrete mixer from a milk can (flask)

Do-it-yourself concrete mixer from a milk can

It should be understood that not everyone has access to electricity. suburban area. Therefore, it would be quite logical to make a hand-made type and a small volume. A do-it-yourself milk flask concrete mixer is a very simple and straightforward option. You will need the can itself, pipe cuttings, or any other similarly shaped scrap metal. It can be done in 2-3 hours, the main range of work falls on the cooking of the frame.

• Taking round pipe, bend the handle as shown in the illustration. Weld water couplings at the top. Their diameter inside must exceed the diameter of the pipe that is used for the handle.
• Pass the tube through the flask, making holes, and then weld it to the body.
• It is extremely important to find the center of gravity of the concrete mixer with your own hands in order to turn it easily. To simplify the design, you can do without the use of a coupling. Cut arcuate notches in the frame and lay the axle on them.

The unit, although simple, is not the most reliable. Therefore, for manufacturing it is better to use some other drawings.

big barrel

Concrete mixer from a large barrel 200 liters

A more practical option is a concrete mixer from a 200 liter barrel. Why exactly two hundred liters? This volume is considered to be optimal for mixing concrete at a time. The plastic option is swept aside immediately - such barrels will not serve you for a long time.

A homemade concrete mixer from a barrel is made as follows:

• Preparing a barrel that has a lid and a bottom. If the cover is missing, it is welded separately. Didn't find a container? You can make it yourself. Homemade option in no way inferior to the factory barrel. You will need dense sheets of metal with a thickness of 1.5 to 2 mm, rollers, an efficient welding apparatus and a wooden hammer.
• We attach flanges on which there are bearings to the lid and bottom. On the side we cut out the hatch, where the components of the solution will be backfilled. A little trick - for a concrete mixer from a barrel, such a hole should be made closer to the end, which will be lower during the scrolling process.
• Knowing how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands is half the battle. It is equally important to establish proper mixing of the solution. To do this, the blades must be welded to the walls inside (angle from 30 to 40 degrees). Such an angle is extremely important so that the contents are “pushed” out during the mixing process. In principle, you can also fix the blades on the shaft.

How do professionals make the base for a concrete mixer?

Naturally, a do-it-yourself manual concrete mixer must have a stable base. This is necessary so that the structure does not begin to roll over during mixing. With a small load of the skeleton from wooden beam will be quite enough (section 10 by 10 or 15 by 15 cm). Optimal connection options: “in a thorn” or “in half a tree”. They are necessary so that the structure does not receive damage from vibration. When the assembly is completed, all joints are glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.

Need a stronger, more durable unit? Then a frame made of a metal corner will definitely suit you. Not everyone has a welding machine, but you can fix it with rivets or bolts.

If necessary, wheels are screwed to the base. Such a device of a concrete mixer will allow you not only to turn it over, but also to move it.

As for engines, a do-it-yourself barrel concrete mixer can be equipped with a motor from a scooter or car. good option there will be a concrete mixer washing machine. The advantage of this option is that it is designed for long-term operation and can last for several years.

How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands video

Below you can get acquainted with the photo drawings that allow you to do everything yourself:

Drawing of a homemade concrete mixer from a barrel

How fast should concrete be mixed?

We will not consider in detail the process of mixing concrete - this is the topic of a separate article. We only note the fact that the moment of torsion plays an important role.

That's why the "washer" gearbox is better than a conventional motor from a scooter or car. It can withstand almost any load and can operate at low speeds. 25 complete cycles (revolutions) per minute is sufficient.

To ensure this amount, the gearbox may have different scheme. The simplest, typical option is when the gearbox is made of a belt and a pulley. A do-it-yourself concrete mixer with a motor from a moped is characterized by mobility. The gearbox is convenient and compact, it does not need electricity to operate. Even if you have a large territory, the made device moves through it without any worries and hassle.

The gearbox in this case must be chain, otherwise the design will not function well.

Instruction. We told you about what the manufacturing scheme should be. Follow it carefully to get the desired result. Any deviations in work can lead to the fact that even a home-made concrete mixer from an old washing machine will turn out to be of poor quality.

Frame. Don't even try to weld a metal frame to cast iron. You will significantly complicate your hard work.

Do not overload the structure with excess weight. If you plan to mix a small amount of concrete, you definitely do not need a 300-liter barrel.

Absolutely anyone can save a substantial amount of money if they know how to make a concrete mixer with their own hands - photos and videos are attached to the instructions. You will need a minimum building materials, tools, a little care and resourcefulness. AND last tip in conclusion. If there is such an opportunity, it is desirable to involve one more (and preferably two) people in the work. Some steps need to be done at the same time, and doing it alone is not very convenient.

Homemade concrete mixer from a barrel video

To carry out construction activities and landscaping, cement and concrete mortars are used. The process of manual preparation of mixtures is laborious and lengthy. It does not guarantee the uniformity of the working mixture. And it is not advisable to purchase an expensive concrete mixer for a one-time batch. The way out of this situation is a do-it-yourself concrete mixer. It will allow you to independently prepare a solution with a homogeneous consistency at minimal cost.

An example of a concrete mixer suitable for the home

The device of a household concrete mixer and the classification of mixers

Units designed for mixing concrete solutions are offered to enterprises and are made by home craftsmen in various options. Consider the design of the mixer, which consists of the following units:

• a metal frame or bed that combines the nodes into a single structure. The frame perceives dynamic and static loads, ensuring the stability of the equipment. For heavy units, the bed is stationary, and for small-sized mixers it is equipped with wheels that facilitate transportation. For the manufacture of a metal frame, you can use a corner or steel profile another section;
• a working body designed to increase the homogeneity of the batch. The activator in contact with the stirred solution acts on the components of the mixture. As a result, the concrete solution acquires a uniform consistency. As mixing organs, blades of complex configuration, special blades, screws and other types of activators are used;
• a tank in which concrete is mixed. Such a container is called a barrel and can be made of various materials. For self-manufacturing working capacity, you can use household appliances that have lost their relevance and performance - from washing machines to metal barrels. The containers used differ in size and volume, affecting performance;
• unloading device, facilitating and accelerating the discharge of the prepared solution. The design of the drain mechanism is determined by the layout of the concrete mixer, the design and dimensions of the barrel, as well as the mass of the concrete solution. Various technical solutions to facilitate the unloading process;
• drive station. An electric motor is used as a driving unit. The transmission of torque from the electric motor can be carried out through a reduction gear or belt drive. The gear ratio and power of the transmission must ensure the possibility of unhindered rotation of a heavy container filled with a solution.

The concrete mixer differs not only in the design option, but also in the mixing methods. According to the principle of operation, mortar mixers are divided into the following types:

• gravitational. Distinctive feature of these mechanisms - the presence of a rotating container and a fixed screw activator. Stirred cement mixture under the influence of gravity without the application of force falls on the screw axis. Uniform mixing of the ingredients is ensured as a result of the action of the blades welded inside the rotating tank. The gravitational method of mixing allows you to prepare concrete with the required degree of mobility;
• forced. They mix the cement slurry inside a permanently fixed tank due to the action of moving elements. The operational characteristics and uniformity of the working solution prepared in such mixers are much higher when compared with gravity units. The forced principle of mixing in private housing construction is rarely used. It is relevant in concrete mixers designed for industrial use.

Gravity concrete mixers 120L

According to the duration of operation, the mixers are divided into the following types:

• periodic action, used for private use. They are equipped with a low power electric motor;
• continuous operation. They are used for industrial purposes and are equipped with a powerful electric drive.

Let us dwell in more detail on the design of devices, the independent manufacture of which is quite simple.

Do-it-yourself homemade concrete mixer - popular designs

Homemade concrete mixer from a barrel

When planning independent production, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with proven designs in practice. Various device schemes are possible, of which the following units are most popular:

• mechanical concrete mixer. It is a barrel cut along the longitudinal axis, hinged on a metal frame. Inside the tank there is a movable shaft with blades. The transmission of torque from the electric motor is carried out through a V-belt transmission and a gearbox. The prepared solution is unloaded by tilting the bucket. The advantage of this mortar mixer is the shortened mixing time. The disadvantage of the unit is the spraying of the solution at an increased rotation speed;
• concrete mixer from a barrel equipped with an activator. According to the layout solution, this version of the mortar mixer is similar to the previously described one. The main difference is the application whole barrel, in which a sealed hatch is made for loading ingredients and unloading the solution. Torque transmission can be carried out both manually and with the help of an electric drive. In this embodiment, the container rotates, inside which the longitudinal combs are fixed. The quality of the batch is determined by the number of revolutions, not the duration of mixing. Despite the complexity of the design, such mechanisms are mass-produced;
• homemade concrete mixer with a mixer. When planning to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, you should pay attention to this option. Despite the complexity of the design of such a mortar mixer, it is worth working on it. The device provides increased uniformity of mixing of the concrete mixture due to the additional degree of freedom. The container with the activator is fixed on a metal frame and can rotate about the longitudinal axis. The frame assembly with the tank has an additional degree of freedom due to the hinged mounting on the base frame of the unit. It is important to ensure the tightness of the tank and the convenience of unloading;
• vibratory concrete mixers. To create a mortar mixer with a vibrational principle of operation, you will need a perforator increased power, in the cartridge of which a metal shaft is fixed. The perforator should be rigidly fixed on the frame, ensuring that the shaft is aligned with the center of the container. On the opposite side of the shaft, a car disk should be rigidly fixed, the diameter of which is smaller than the internal size of the barrel. The vertically mounted barrel is then filled with ingredients. The components of the cement-concrete mixture under the influence of vibration are uniformly mixed. Deciding how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands from car disk use this option.

For self-production of a concrete mixer, any design option is suitable.

Homemade concrete mixer with a mixer

Do-it-yourself concrete mixer - pros and cons

Regardless of whether a large concrete mixer or a small-sized mixer will be made, familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages of home-made devices before starting production.

Advantages of self-made mortar mixers:

• saving Money compared to the purchase of a finished unit;
• improved quality of the prepared cement-concrete mixture;
• reduced duration of mixing the ingredients of the concrete solution;
• convenience of unloading the prepared mixture by tilting the mixer barrel;
• the possibility of manufacturing a mixing device with a manual drive;
• a wide range of materials and containers for self-manufacturing.

Drawing. Tipper concrete mixer

Problem points associated with the independent manufacture of mortar mixers:

• the complexity of manufacturing at home without professional training;
• the need to adjust components and elements to ensure trouble-free operation;
• splashing of cement slurry at an increased frequency of mixing.

Do-it-yourself concrete mixer - pros and cons

Analyzing the advantages and disadvantages, many developers prefer the independent production of concrete mixers. At the same time, it must be taken into account that if a concrete mixer is made from a barrel with your own hands, the drawings must be used only proven in practice.

How to make a concrete mixer from a barrel with your own hands

Thinking about how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, prepare drawings or sketches in advance. It is possible to sketch out a full-scale sample for manufacturing, which has positively proven itself in operating conditions. Consider the features of self-production of various options.

How to make a manual and electric concrete mixer

The manual version of the mortar mixer is the simplest. It is best suited for making small amounts of mix and is cheaper than electric models. The mixing process is carried out by filling the tank with components, followed by the transfer of torque by turning the handle.

Design handheld device It is a metal frame on which a rotary shaft with a container for mixing is fixed in hinged supports. A handle is fixed on one side of the drive shaft.

The assembly algorithm provides for the following operations:

• Welding of metal structures. It consists of two triangular sidewalls connected by jumpers. In the upper part there are bushings for fastening the rotary shaft.
• Preparation of the mixing tank. As a container, you can use a barrel, a milk can or a washing machine body. Inside it is necessary to fix the blades.
• Installation of the container on the rotary shaft. It is important to ensure a rigid connection and seal the gaps in the shaft attachment areas.
• Fixation of the handle for mixing and control of the tightness of the mixer. For testing, it is necessary to fill the container with water and make sure that there are no leaks.

Preparing the mixing tank

By following the indicated sequence of operations, a concrete mixer can be easily made with your own hands. Drawings or sketches can be corrected, providing for the possibility of using a milk can or other container.

If a V-belt pulley or a chain drive sprocket is fixed on the side of the shaft opposite to the handle, then it is possible to ensure the transmission of torque from the gearbox connected to the electric motor. A do-it-yourself concrete mixer from a barrel, driven by an electric motor, will provide increased efficiency mixing.

Homemade concrete mixer with a washing machine engine

Using a 0.18 kW motor with a rotation speed of 1500 rpm, it is possible to assemble an electric drive for a mortar mixer. To transmit torque, a starter gear and a flywheel from a car are used.

Do-it-yourself mobile concrete mixer from a washing machine is made in the following order:

• Weld the frame with the gear axles.
• Fasten the wheels.
• Install the drive gears on the axles.
• Attach the motor with a pulley.
• Assemble the belt drive.
• Attach the barrel to the end of the flywheel.

It remains to connect the power supply and check how the homemade concrete mixer from the washing machine works.

Conclusion

Guided by the above recommendations, it is easy to make a concrete mixer with your own hands. Before starting self-manufacturing, it is important to decide on the design of the device. When figuring out how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, prepare the drawings first. They will help you avoid mistakes.

It is difficult even to imagine any construction site without technological processes using cement mortars. And for owners of their own country house, with their constant state of “permanent” repair and landscaping, concreting is generally a very popular operation - either garden paths need to be poured, then the foundation for the gazebo, then the blind area must be renewed, then the fence must be put up ... In a word, concrete production is required literally at every step - the difference only on the scale of the event.

Many individual builders prefer not to bother with self-mixing of the mortar - this can be avoided if there is a concrete goods factory nearby or another company that provides services for the manufacture of concrete and its delivery to the place of work. But, firstly, it costs a lot of money. Secondly, not everywhere such an opportunity is present. And, thirdly, it does not always make sense to use such services for reasons of a small scale construction or repair task - it will be either simply ridiculous or extremely unprofitable. It’s easier to make the right amount of solution yourself. This, of course, can be done manually, but it is better to purchase (rent) a concrete mixer or show yourself a real owner: for the future, make yourself a concrete mixer with your own hands.

The article will discuss several homemade models concrete mixers - from the simplest to those that already differ little from the samples presented in stores.

Brief excursion - what are concrete mixers

By and large, you can cook without any equipment at all. Some masters even like to work like this, "the old fashioned way", mixing cement nt with sand and other components (if necessary), and then gradually adding the right amount of water. For this, large containers with low sides are used, factory-made or even home-made, knocked together from boards and sheathed with thin metal.

Mixing by hand - how much time do you have?

Some people prefer to do without containers altogether, by preparing the solution simply on a prepared flat area. However, in any case, the procedure of mixing with a shovel or hoe, first dry components, and then with water, is a very laborious process that takes a lot of effort even at the preliminary stage, before concreting. And if the work is planned on a fairly large scale, then this approach will not justify itself.

Prices for concrete mixers Whirlwind

concrete mixer Whirlwind

Construction mixers or drill attachments - they will go more for dry mortars or composite polymer materials. Sand with cement for them is already a rather difficult “test”, and if there is still a need to add gravel, gravel or expanded clay of a large fraction, then the mixer or drill can be safely put aside: not only can you not achieve a high-quality, homogeneous batch, but also and there is a high risk of overheating the gearbox or the electric drive of the device.

Concrete mixers (concrete mixers) cope with this task, which differ not only in size, capacity and drive power, but also in the principle of their operation.

Forced mixing principle

Forced principle - the mixing of the components of the solution is carried out in a fixed container. It is carried out due to circular movements of the shaft with blades connected to a mechanical drive. (Working with a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle can also be safely attributed to the forced kneading principle).

The layout of the installation may be different. So, the working drum can be a vertically located cylinder of small height, in which blades-blades rotate on a vertical axis (as in the figure above).

Another option is when the container itself is located horizontally, and the shaft with blades is also oriented in a horizontal plane. Below is circuit diagram such a concrete mixer - who knows, perhaps someone will use it as a prototype for self-production.

In the drawing, the numbers indicate:

1 – drum body, which solution is mixed.

2 - a frame on which all units of the unit are mounted.

3 - Electric drive. In this case, with such dimensions of the mixer, the power of the order of 5 ÷ 6 kW will be optimal.

4 – control and management elements: toggle switches, indicator lamps.

5 - Lower hatch (shutter) - for unloading the finished solution into a container substituted from below.

6 - lever to open the shutter.

7 - safety grill installed during kneading.

8 - a gearbox for transmitting rotation from an electric drive to a working shaft.

9 - Protective casing of the belt drive.

10 - safety clutch.

11 - a working shaft with blades installed on it for mixing the solution.

The unloading of the finished solution can also be organized according to a different principle - the working drum is mounted on the frame not rigidly, but pivotally. When mixing concrete, it is locked in working position. And in order to extract ready solution, capacity removed from stopper, and with the help of a special lever it rotates in the suspension trunnions. The solution is unloaded into the substituted container through the top loading hatch.

Another scheme is somewhat simpler, with a lever for capsizing the container

Forced-action concrete mixers achieve very high levels of mortar homogeneity. They are actively used in industrial environment, in construction, in private practice. However, they are not without significant drawbacks:

• In the working tank, it is often impossible to avoid the creation of "dead zones" - along the walls, especially in the corners. It is not easy to fit the blades with a minimum clearance to the inner walls of the cylinder, especially since under such conditions there is a constant increased wear of rubbing parts.
• Structural complexity - reliable hermetic protection of rotation units (bearing blocks) on the working shaft from the aggressive effects of cement mortar is necessary.
• It is almost impossible to prepare a solution with a filler of medium or large fraction in such a concrete mixer. But on the other hand, for plastering and finishing works, using ready-made building mixtures, this the most optimal option.

Gravity mixing

The gravitational principle of mixing - the components of the solution are mixed under the influence of their own gravity. An illustrative example - put in glass jar two different products, for example, two types of cereals, close the lid and start rotating - mixing will begin.

It is clear that such an approach in its "pure" form does not provide high-quality preparation of the solution, or it will take too much time to achieve an acceptable consistency. In industrial conditions, this method is not used, but for domestic needs, a small simple concrete mixer can be made.

The drawing shows a can - it is convenient in terms of tightly closing the lid. But, in principle, almost any container can be used, if the owner thinks well about the issue of its reliable closure while mixing the solution.

The axis of rotation can be fixed outside the container - in this case, it is not necessary to ensure the sealing of the assembly when it passes through the wall. But still, it is better to make it through - such an artificial obstacle during gravitational mixing of the solution will somewhat increase its quality.

On the Internet you can find many interesting solutions for the manufacture of such simple concrete mixers from improvised means. Very often old iron barrels are used. To make a stand - probably not a single good one home master there will be no particular difficulty.

The most difficult thing, probably, again, is to think over the issue of a tightly fitting hatch, which, when open, will allow loading the components of the mixture and pouring water, and when closed, with stirring, will not allow the liquid solution to flow out. Approaches here can be different, but most often they use a door on welded hinges, the opening for which is sealed with rubber around the perimeter.

Some creative masters somewhat complicate the design, in order to improve the quality of concrete mixing. So, for example, to increase the amplitude of differences in height, the barrel can be placed not along the “correct” axis of the cylinder, but diagonally.

Of course, it is somewhat more difficult to rotate such a concrete mixer, but on the other hand, the uniformity of mixing the solution will be achieved faster.

Combined principle

So, it was mentioned above that the gravitational principle of mixing in its “pure form” does not differ in productivity and high quality of the batch. Surely there will be objections - after all, it is believed, and many sources state that most of the usual concrete mixers with an angled rotating drum use the gravitational principle. One can agree with this, but only by making one very important remark.

In such mixing devices, it is imperative to inner surface working drum rigidly fixed blades. Their configuration and size are thought out by the designers. During rotation, these blades move relative to the solution tending downward under its own weight. Thus, in this case, it would be more appropriate to talk about the combination of two principles - both gravitational and forced. And indeed, this is how the vast majority of cooking devices are arranged.

There are several advantages right away:

• No sealing is required, neither the drum itself (it is constantly open at the top), nor the rotation unit (since no contact with the solution is expected here).
• Part wear is much less.
• Such concrete mixers are simple and reliable in operation, easy to maintain.
• There are practically no restrictions on the component composition of the solution - crushed stone, gravel, expanded clay, etc. can be used.

The manufacture of a concrete mixer of this type will be discussed in more detail.

By the way, let's return for a minute again to those simple concrete mixer-barrels, which were mentioned above. If you show a little ingenuity, then they are also very easy to upgrade, dramatically improving both their productivity and the quality of the mixed solution. To do this, it is enough to triple the blades or some other artificial obstacles on their inner surface.

One of the options is shown in the diagram. In this case, a comb was used, which is easy to weld from a corner and trim a reinforcing bar. Two such combs will immediately transfer the concrete mixer from the category of gravity to the “family” of more advanced, combined ones.

Vibratory mixing of mortar components

Not so often, but still, some enthusiasts try to apply the principle of mixing the concrete solution using vibration. In industrial conditions, such installations give excellent results, they are used for the manufacture of highly precise reinforced concrete parts with the highest performance characteristics.

And at home, the craftsmen try to use a powerful one as a drive (the main thing is that its vibrational action is independent, it does not require pressing the cartridge against an obstacle).

It turns out something like this scheme:

1 - the body of the container in which the components of the solution are mixed. Preference is given to round, not too large in radius, but high tubs (barrels).

2 - a bracket is rigidly attached to the body, in which the vibro-impulse generator is located, in our case - a perforator (pos. 3).

The power of the perforator should be at least 1.3 - 1.5 kW. Even this will not give a guarantee of success, and with less drive force, it is not worth trying.

A long rod (pos. 4) is inserted into the perforator chuck, which is connected to a vibrator (pos. 6). This rod must be of such length that the disk vibrator is approximately in the center of the prepared solution layer height (pos. 5).

It seems that everything is simple, but far from always such a scheme shows good results. Mistakes, most often, lie in the neglect of seemingly small nuances:

• A flat vibrator simply will not work. A shape is needed that will propagate vibrations in a dense medium from a central point almost spherically to the periphery. It should be something spindle-shaped, like two plates connected together with the bottoms out. In principle, this is one of the solutions - two metal plates mounted on an axle.
• The vibrator diameter depends on the drive power. In calculations, one can proceed from their approximate proportions: 150 ÷ ​​200 mm per 1 kW of puncher power. So, if we take a 1.5 kW puncher, then we prepare "plates" from 225 to 300 mm in diameter.
• The diameter of the cylinder itself should be such that from the outer edge of the vibrator, placed exactly in the center, to the container wall there is a distance approximately equal to the radius of the plate.
• To create vibration waves that can cope with the mixing of the cement-sand mixture, the level of the solution above and below the vibrator must necessarily be approximately equal to the diameter of the "plates".

Vibratory kneading of concrete mixes gives excellent quality of a solution. The process is very easily monitored visually - from active stirring, movement, bubbling - to a flat, rippling surface (ready-made solution). But, you must admit that for this you need to observe a lot of specific “whims”. And yet - "heavy" solutions with gravel or gravel in this way are also problematic to prepare. So this method does not find wide application among private traders - it is easier to make a concrete mixer according to the "classical" scheme.

Independent production of a "classic" concrete mixer

It is necessary to immediately warn "hot heads" - not everyone can take on the manufacture of such a concrete mixer. Although in many articles there is a “bravura motive” that it is both easier and cheaper than buying a ready-made one, you should not believe it.

- Firstly, you should not start such work if the owner knows about the art of welding only by hearsay or does it in this field.

- Secondly, the work will be profitable if most of the components for the manufacture of concrete mixers can be found among unnecessary things in their own household, from neighbors or even in a landfill.

- Thirdly, the existing experience in design, production of plumbing, welding, electrical work and the available inexpensive or generally free materials should be multiplied by the expressed desire to make a concrete mixer on their own. There is a fairly large category of people who are eager to try to do everything with their own hands - this is a task just for them. If you start work without fulfilling such conditions, simply cherishing the ephemeral hope of saving something, then it’s better not to start. Time and materials will be wasted, and it will be much cheaper and easier to purchase a small and inexpensive concrete mixer - fortunately, the choice is quite large.

General scheme concrete mixers - about the same

If we consider almost any of these concrete mixers, then three main structural units are always clearly distinguished:

• The container itself (badya), in which the solution is mixed, with all the additional mixing devices in it.
• Frame (frame, frame), which serves to place on it a mixing tub, an electric or manual drive, controls and, if necessary, means of movement. The frame must provide a movable hinged fastening of the container, the degree of its freedom both around its own axis and relative to the horizon with different angles of inclination. The structure itself may be stationary, or it may be wheeled for movement around the construction site.
• The drive is a mechanism that ensures the rotation of the mixer tank around its axis. In most cases, an electric drive is used. For small concrete mixers, a manual drive may be sufficient. It is possible (infrequently) to meet options for installing internal combustion engines (gasoline or diesel) - then the concrete mixer will not be dependent on the power supply. Any drive transmits torque with the number of revolutions necessary for the kneading technology through the gearbox (there are no restrictions - the craftsmen use any type of gear - gear, belt, worm, etc.).

Now consider the manufacture of all these nodes separately.

mixing tub

In the manufacture of a mixing tank, it is assumed that during operation it is usually filled to a maximum of 30 - 40% of its total volume. Usually these tubs are made with a volume of 100 to 200 liters. If these limits are exceeded, it will be difficult to independently create a reliable stable frame and supply a home-made concrete mixer with such a powerful drive. With small tank volumes, both assembly and operation of the concrete mixer often become simply unprofitable.

Prices for concrete mixers Enkor

concrete mixer Enkor

The easiest way, of course, is to find a ready-made container that is suitable in terms of volume and dimensions as the main mixer. Immediately asks for se the same metal barrel.

The easiest approach is again a metal barrel

This option is quite possible, however, for a good concrete mixer, the cylindrical shape of the tub is not optimal. A lot of unmixed solution may remain in the corners around the bottom, and splashing out of the solution from above during stirring is not ruled out.

Making a smooth transition to the walls is a very difficult task, but probably any master can give the barrel a pear-shaped shape. Triangular cutouts are made on top, and then the remaining "petals" are welded so that a uniform narrowing is obtained.

Improved barrel - made narrower in the upper part

An interesting solution was found by a craftsman who decided to adapt a plastic barrel. And why not? Smooth curves of the form - what is required for the capacity of the concrete mixer. It is quite possible to attach the blades to its inner surface, and from the outside below - an axis with a rotation transmission mechanism not by welding, but by screw connections. But what a huge gain in terms of the mass of the device itself!

The original approach - a plastic barrel

As a result, the designer of this model even managed not with a steel frame, but with a mobile wooden base- wheeled trolley.

The height of a standard barrel for use as a concrete mixer tank is still too big, complicating the alignment of the entire unit. Please note that in such cases, support rollers are usually used for stabilization - a high tub, as it were, rolls along them, resting on its upper part.

If there is no suitable container, but sheet metal with a thickness of 2 ÷ 3 mm is available, then you can try your hand at making the container yourself, giving it all the necessary shapes.

In order not to be unfounded, for those owners who consider themselves a master in welding, you can offer an interesting drawing for the manufacture of a "classic" concrete mixer with a drop-shaped bucket.

The general dimensions of the tank, without the connection unit with the reducer - 400 ÷ 500 mm. It would seem - a little, compactly, but even only in the cylindrical part about 30 liters of mortar are placed - a completely acceptable indicator for a household concrete mixer.

1 - automotive wheel hub. You can make this part yourself, but it’s still easier to use the finished one.

2 - the bottom of the tub. It is cut from a steel sheet, preferably 5 mm thick. In the figure below, this position is shown separately in an enlarged view. Holes (8 PC, with a diameter of 6.5 mm) must exactly match the holes on the hub (pos. 1 ).

3 - the cylindrical part of the tub (shell) is welded from a steel strip bent into a ring, 2 mm thick, 150 × 1580 mm in size. All welds during the assembly of the tub are made solid, sealed. It is advisable to reinforce the shell from above with a metal bandage ( tape).

4 - the conical part of the tub is welded from four identical parts. Their dimensions, including the radii of curvature in the upper and lower parts, are shown in the figure.

5 - along the upper edge, the edge of the tub flares outward, and By circle, a steel bar with a diameter of 10 mm is welded (well shown in the diagram - node A ).

6 - “blades” are welded inside the tub - solution dividers. In this case, the structure shown in the diagram, made of a reinforcing bar with a diameter of 16 mm, will be quite enough. Such dividers are made in 3 pairs and welded evenly around the circumference, through 120 °. By the way, they should give the tub additional strength. In each pair - one straight divider coming from the bottom in the neck, and one - bent at a right angle.

bottom knot ( B), which includes, among other things, the already mentioned hub and bottom, is better shown in a separate, enlarged drawing.

7 - bolts connecting the hub to the bottom. The nuts are on the outside. Between the parts there is a rubber gasket at least 2 ÷ 3 mm (pos. 11).

8 – a screw with a washer that secures the hub to the gearbox output shaft (pos. 9 ). A key prevents the hub from turning on the shaft (pos. 10 ).

Lower connection block ( B) is prepared, tried on, but mounted only after the frame is assembled and the drive and gearbox are installed on it. In principle, this will be one of the final operations - on the node already mounted to the gearbox B will "sit down" on the screws of the concrete mixing tank.

All welds must be free of scale and carefully checked to ensure that full impermeability tubs.

Video: homemade concrete mixer with a bucketwelded from a steel sheet

concrete mixer frame

In the manufacture of frames or carts for concrete mixers, the ingenuity of craftsmen is also quite welcome, who can adapt metal parts and wheels that are unnecessary in the household for this design.

Frames can be wheeled - that is, it will not be difficult to transport them to the right place. You can also make a stationary, fixed frame - it is easier to manufacture, and under conditions suburban area usually any larger movements of the concrete mixer are not planned.

The frames may also differ in the degree of freedom provided by the mixing tub. So, the container can be installed pivotally, with a change, as necessary, in the angle of inclination of its axis to the horizon - for solutions of varying degrees of "severity", for pouring ready-made concrete, for washing the container, etc.

A simpler option is when the bucket on the frame always occupies one position, and the entire concrete mixer leans forward to unload the solution - like a wheelbarrow (as shown in one of the figures above) or children's rocking chairs on arched skids.

Video: homemade concrete mixer with a swing frame

However, we will continue to consider the drawing of a concrete mixer, the manufacture of the mixing tub of which was described above. It is possible to go this route as well. Drawing, for ease of perception and for greater clarity in the dimensions and layout of parts, is presented in two projections.

Concrete mixer - front view

To assemble such a frame from ordinary and shaped pipes and sheet metal scraps - for an experienced locksmith - welder will not be something extremely difficult at all. Meanwhile, this design is well tested - it is not heavy, but it ensures reliable stability of the concrete mixer in the transport and working position, ensures maximum ease of operation.

She is a side view.

1 - this is the same tub that was described in the last section of the article.

2 - handle-lever for setting the bucket in the desired position and for tipping it when unloading. You can use ½ inch (½ʺ) steel pipe for the lever.

3 – a gusset cut out of 3 mm steel (s 3) ensures that the lever is securely fastened to the swivel subframe (pos. 18 ).

4 – metal wheels Ø 350 mm. Usually they are taken from decommissioned agricultural machinery.

5 – persistent legs with thrust bearings, for stable installation of the concrete mixer in the working position. They are made of ½ʺ pipe (pillars themselves) and s3 steel (thrust bearings).

6 - the cross beam of the frame of the concrete mixer. A profile pipe with a cross section of 60 × 20 mm is used.

8 - an inclined beam (pipe 60 × 20 mm), and for its rigidity - a brace (pos. 7 ) connected to the cross beam. For strut - pipe ½ ʺ.

9 – a panel to which the electric drive control elements will be attached. The panel is cut from s3 steel.

11 - wheel axle. It is made from a metal circle Ø16 mm - according to the size of the mounting hole available wheels.

12 - longitudinal beam of the bed of the concrete mixer. Profile pipe 60 × 20 mm.

13 - vertical stand. Profile pipe 60 × 20 mm.

14 – an eye of hinged fastening of a rotary subframe. Two parts are made, from s5 steel.

15 - transmission gearbox. In this version - a ready-made assembly, worm type, with a gear ratio i = 17.

16 – safety clutch on the drive shaft.

17 – . Specifically, in this concrete mixer model, the developer used a three-phase drive (380 V), with a rated power of 1 kW, and a rotation speed of 950 rpm.

18 - a swinging subframe, on which both the electric drive with the gearbox and the mixing tub itself are mounted. It is made from the following parts: two spars from a ¾ʺ pipe, four crossbars from a corner 35 × 35 mm.

19 , 20 And 21 – electric drive controls: start button, capacitor box and power cord with a three-phase socket, respectively.

Now - a slightly larger node A, which ensures the installation and fixation of the mixing tub in the desired position.

On the stretcher (pos. 18 ) welded eyelet (pos. 22 ), and on an inclined rack (pos. 8 ) – sector (pos. 10 ). Both the eyelet and the sector can be made of s3 steel. The selected position is fixed with a pin (pos. 23 ), and so that it does not get lost, it is recommended to hang it on a chain.

The number of fixed positions in the sector may be different. However, it is usually sufficient T rex:

- at an angle of 50 ° to the horizon - for mixing heavy concrete mortars;

- at an angle of 30 ° - for the preparation of light mortars (for example, masonry);

- horizontally - for washing the tub.

After the frame is assembled, all welds are beaten off from slag, the parts must be cleaned of corrosion pockets. Then it is recommended to cover the structure with high-quality paint for metal. The rubbing components of the frame (subframe suspension in the frame lugs, wheel axles) are generously lubricated with ordinary hinged grease.

In the considered version, the drive and the gearbox unit are attached to the subframe (so that exact alignment is observed). After checking the performance (trial run), you can finally assemble the concrete mixer by putting it in place and fixing the mixing tub with bolts.

A few words about the drive

In the example under consideration, the electric motor and gearbox already recommended by the model developer were used. However, in the practice of self-manufacturing concrete mixers very widespread there is a situation when the master “on the go” selects a drive from what is available and comes up with a way to transfer torque to the mixing tank.

It is customary to calculate the required power of the electric drive, based on the ratio of 20 W per liter of solution for a scheme with an inclined bucket. (In a horizontal arrangement, for example, in models with a barrel on a horizontal axis, 15 W / l will be sufficient). You should not forget about this ratio so as not to overload the drive. For example, if the engine in our case has a power of 1 kW, then more than 50 liters of solution should not be mixed, regardless of the size of the tub itself.

Thus, often they begin to manufacture the tub itself, starting from the parameters of the drive, which is planned to be put on a concrete mixer.

The rotation speed of the mixer tub must also be within certain framework . So, it is considered optimal from 30 to 50 rpm. To make the speed less - to deliberately delay the process of making the solution. And if the speed is too high, then spraying of the solution will begin.

Finding a ready-made gearbox that would meet the requirements both in terms of dimensions and gear ratio is not always possible. Therefore, many masters find their own, sometimes very original ways transmission of torque with the provision of the desired angular velocity. In the variant that was considered, the mixer is planted directly on the driven axle of the gearbox. However, often the bucket is mounted on a free axle, and the torque laneeaten on it with a gear, belt, chain drive. For example, here are some original solutions:

Instead of pulleys - bicycle wheels

Homemade gearbox - drive from an old washing machine transmits the rotation of belt drives through the pulleys of their gears and old bicycle wheels.

The simplest frame with a homemade gearbox

Fixed frame for a concrete mixer with a homemade gearbox.

Homemade gearbox, which combines a belt and two chain drives. Again, not without bicycle parts.

A small-sized concrete mixer, the rotation of which is transmitted to the bucket directly through a belt drive. The pulley is structurally placed on the mixing tank itself.

Very often, car parts that are unnecessary in the garage are used. A popular solution is to use a flywheel with a ring gear. By the way, it is very easy to find a drive gear in a pair for it - from the bendix of a car starter, since they are " made for each other".

The flywheel can be fully assembled welded to the bottom of the tub.

Another option is when only the ring gear is used. Perhaps it is not necessary to say that in this case it is extremely important point there will be a very careful centering.

In a word, a thrifty owner can very often find details for his own original solution the issue of manufacturing the desired gearbox. Perhaps the options shown will be a good hint for someone.

Video: another design option for a concrete mixer

Prices for concrete mixers Stroymash

concrete mixer Stroymash

If everything worked out, then the owner can be congratulated on the successful acquisition of a good “assistant”. But in order for the concrete mixer to last longer and not cause any emergencies, you need to follow certain rules:

• Like any equipment associated with the consumption of electricity, a concrete mixer requires compliance with electrical safety rules. And in this case, this issue is even more acute, since operation is always carried out in conditions of high humidity and a high probability of water splashing. That is, all cables and contact connections must have the most reliable insulation, which completely excludes electric shock or short circuit.
• The operation of a concrete mixer is always associated with high levels of vibration. This leads to loosening of threaded connections, which means that they need to be checked and tightened regularly. At the same time, one should not forget to control the safety of other assemblies and parts, welds, etc.
• Before starting work, you need to make sure that the installation of the concrete mixer is reliable. It should rest firmly on all of its standard stands. If the structure is mobile, then wheel chocks (wedges) are placed under the wheels.
• Never, under no circumstances Not Do not leave a working concrete mixer unattended. Curious people should not be allowed near it, and even more so - children.
• When working, it is better to use protective equipment for the skin and eyes - since the cement acts quite aggressively on tissues and mucous membranes.
• Checking the quality of the resulting solution with a shovel or stick while the concrete mixer is running is the height of imprudence! Very often, such actions end in a serious injury to the hands or face.

And in conclusion of the article - proof that the limits of creativity when creating homemade technology- No.

Video: homemade concrete mixer based on an old T-16 tractor

When large-scale construction works, not the last question that needs to be decided where to get a mortar mixer - if you mix the mortar manually, then the lost time does not compensate for the savings from not buying a concrete mixer. Some skill in welding and locksmithing and instructions on how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands will help reduce costs.

Basic principles of operation of mortar mixers

According to the principle of operation, a do-it-yourself concrete mixer is no different from industrial analogues - the differences will be only in the materials used and sizes. In addition, it will be easier to repair a concrete mixer with your own hands, since you know the mechanism you have made yourself inside and out.

Based on the volume of planned work and the available components, the finished device can mix concrete in a concrete mixer by force, gravity or combined. The latter is used most often due to the ease of manufacture of the device and the high quality of its work.

Forced mixing of the solution

According to this principle, a construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle operates - a whisk is lowered into the solution and, rotating, mixes its components. But such tools are more suitable for gypsum plasters- sand and cement, especially with the addition of crushed stone, have a much greater weight, so at best you simply won’t get a high-quality mixture, and at worst - when making a mortar, you can burn the drill motor or its gearbox yourself.

For the preparation of concrete, a slightly modified design is used - a shaft passes through the center of the tank, on which blades are mounted, mixing the components of the mixture. Also, frame mixers show good results, which break up the clods of the solution, turning it into a homogeneous mixture. Some builders are convinced that only such an arbolite mixer can prepare an arbolite solution with high quality.

Advantages and disadvantages

This method shows excellent results in production, but before using it at home, you should weigh the pros and cons of the design.

There is only one advantage - such a concrete mixer will produce the most homogeneous solution in the shortest time.

The disadvantages of such a device are much more:

• The complexity of the design. It is necessary to ensure the tightness of the place where the shaft passes through the mixing container. This determines how often the bearing needs to be replaced, which is usually installed in this place. It is also necessary to reduce the "dead zones" that are located near the walls of the tank - the blades or frame must rotate freely, but at the same time pass close enough to the surface so as not to leave unmixed parts of the solution there.
• Need quality parts. concrete mortar quite heavy in itself, and adding crushed stone or other inclusions to it requires additional capacities from the concrete mixer. As a result, in order to get a good concrete mixer, you need to remember or master the basics of strength of materials.
• The design is not designed for the preparation of a solution that includes medium and large fractions of crushed stone or expanded clay - they will simply get stuck between the blades and walls.
• Large power consumption. Again, everything is tied to the density and weight of the concrete in which the blades will rotate. For the same reason, a self-made forced-action concrete mixer must necessarily be with an engine - if you try to rotate the shaft manually, you can use shovels with the same success.

If the quality of the mortar and the speed of its mixing are more important, then a forced concrete mixer with your own hands can be made according to the following schemes.

Details and device

The design consists of the following components:

• Carrying frame. Its execution is individual in each case.
• Drum for a batch, with smooth internal walls.
• working shaft. Frames or blades are attached to it, mixing the solution.
• Electric motor.
• Reduction gear.
• Coupling. Transfers force from the gearbox to the shaft. It can act as a fuse in case of jamming.
• Luke for rashing the finished solution.
• Lever for opening the hatch (or turning the drum).

Do-it-yourself forced-action concrete mixers require special attention to the way in which the prepared mortar will be unloaded. This is a hatch in the bottom of the mixing container or a device for completely turning it over so that the finished mixture is poured out through the loading compartment. Which of the methods is more suitable, it is advisable to decide in advance.

Visually forced concrete mixer in the video:

Gravity mixing

When using this method, the container itself is spinning into which the components of the solution are poured. Mixing occurs due to the constant pouring of sand and cement from top to bottom. The most difficult thing in this design is to ensure that the lid closes tightly so that water does not seep through it.

The most important advantage of the design is its simplicity. Such a do-it-yourself mortar mixer can be made from an ordinary can, even an unnecessary and leaky one will do. Do not drink water from it, so the hole can be closed by any means, and the neck rarely deteriorates and still provides the necessary tightness.

Such devices can also be used during construction in places where there is no electricity - such a home-made concrete mixer made by oneself does not have to be equipped with an electric drive, although its presence will greatly simplify the work.

Working on the same principle, but more common is a homemade concrete mixer from a barrel. It is easier for her to find a container, it is more capacious and mixing the solution allows you to perform more thoroughly. As practice has shown, the solution is better mixed in a barrel fixed in opposite corners.

Details and device

The following components are used:

• iron barrel suitable sizes. Some craftsmen adapt plastic containers for these purposes.
• Frame. There are no restrictions - full scope for imagination. The main thing is that it is convenient to pour out your finished solution.
• A shaft that supports a container that can support the weight of a barrel of cement.
• Bearings.
• Pen. The longer it is, the easier it is to rotate the shaft.
• Handle.
• Cover for draining the finished solution.
• Clips that hold the lid to the neck.
• Seals.
• Hinges for opening the lid.

How a do-it-yourself concrete mixer from a barrel works is clearly shown in the following video:

Combined concrete mixers

The most common devices - the solution is mixed due to gravitational influence, plus breaking up lumps with blades or pins welded to the body of the barrel. Suitable for making arbolite with your own hands. They require more time to prepare the solution than forced mixers, but have an extensive list of advantages:

• The design is as simple as possible, reliable and unpretentious in operation.
• Less force is generated on the shaft that rotates the drum, which allows you to use different powerful electric motors as for forced mixing. As a result - significantly less wear on components.
• It is not required to seal any joints - the solution is mixed inside the barrel, and all the nodes of the mechanism are outside.
• It is possible to mix solutions with any size fractions of crushed stone, expanded clay and other fillers.

The simplest combined manual concrete mixer made by hand from iron barrel- this is the same manual concrete mixer, but with blades or combs welded from the inside. If necessary, an electric motor can be connected to it.

Self-manufacturing

A factory-made or do-it-yourself concrete mixer consists of three main components: a bucket in which the mortar is mixed, a frame for attaching the components and a drive - manual or electric (in some cases motors from a moped or scooter are used).

In the video, a home-made tub for combined mixing of the solution is installed on a T-16 tractor:

Solution bucket

First, you need to consider its size, given that it will be loaded by 30-40%. No more, as the solution will splash out and mix poorly.

Secondly, attention should be paid to the shape - it should be pear-shaped. From above, so that water and mortar do not splash out, from below - so that concrete particles do not clog into the corners between the wall and the bottom.

An almost finished bucket is a plastic barrel of the right dimensions - in addition to the fact that it fits in shape, its weight will be an additional plus.

Alternatively, a concrete mixer can be made from a washing machine - if an old Soviet round “washer” is lying around in the attic, then a laundry tank is removed from it, which is specially designed to have liquid spinning inside it. The bottom is strengthened, the top is narrowed and the tank is ready.

If there is nothing suitable, then a pear for a concrete mixer can be made from a steel sheet with a cross section of 2-3 mm. For the bottom, you should take a thicker metal - about 5 mm - the main load from the drive will go to it.

With a diameter of 500 mm and a height of 400, a compact bucket is obtained, in which, nevertheless, 30 liters of solution can be prepared at a time.

The following drawings will tell you more about the design:

It is possible to make a quality pear for a concrete mixer without using the blades. In the diagram shown, instead of them, mortar dividers from 16 mm reinforcing bar are welded inside the tank, which additionally strengthen the structure. This design is an excellent mixer for wood concrete.

Fastening to the shaft occurs through the hub from the car wheel, which is welded or screwed to the bottom. If there are no auto parts lying around in the garage, then the fasteners will have to be made manually according to the drawing.

Carrier frame

In its design may be the most various variations- here is complete freedom of action, the main rule of its manufacture is that it securely holds all the components and gives free access for loading and unloading concrete.

The main differences in engineering are in the method of pouring the finished solution, for which the tub itself is made movable, or the entire frame is designed in a certain way.

For a bucket made of steel sheet, a frame that provides it with an inclination will be optimal. The container itself is connected to the gearbox drive (15), to which the force comes from the engine (17) through the clutch (16).

All this is mounted on a subframe (18) and rotates on a hinge (14). For different types solutions, the working slope of the bucket can be adjusted, for which an eyelet (22) is welded to the subframe, through which a sector (10) passes, held in the desired position by a pin (23).

The main provisions of the sector need at least three:

Slope 50% - for heavy solutions.

Slope 30% - for light mixtures (for example, plaster).

Horizontal position for rinsing the container.

Electric motor and gearbox

Rarely, these parts are bought separately - the easiest way is to use what is at hand. The electric motor is suitable from the washing machine, the electrical circuit is from the same place, and the gearboxes are assembled from bicycle wheels, belt or chain drives. The closest thing to the factory design is a flywheel welded to the bottom, which spins from the “native” Benedix of an automobile starter mounted on a shaft.

All calculations are made based on the following considerations:

• Engine power is selected according to the ratio of 20 watts per liter of solution.
• The number of revolutions that the gearbox produces for the tub should be in the range of 30-50 per minute. A smaller amount will increase mixing time, and a larger amount will splatter the solution or even cause centrifugal forces, due to which mixing will not occur.

Briefly about the main

A self-assembled manual concrete mixer is a completely solvable task for a person who knows how to properly work with a welding machine and has the skills of plumbing.

If a do-it-yourself mixer is made from a barrel, then you can pick up a plastic container that is already completely ready for installation.

When assembling, you need to remember about the engine power, the optimal number of revolutions and the careful centering of the mechanism.

A self-assembled concrete mixer helps save time and makes hard work easy. From the article you will learn from what and how to make this unit yourself.

Concrete mixer: what is it for and how to assemble it?

Why do you need a homemade concrete mixer? The title already has the answer. This is a unit that is designed to mix sand and cement with water to produce concrete. Why concrete is needed, every schoolchild knows about it today. You can’t do without this material if you are going to start building a house, or, say, to ennoble the territory - so that there is a clean yard and smooth paths.

Of course, you can arm yourself with a trough with a shovel and make concrete manually. But why do you need Sisyphean labor when you can use a special machine for this? There is no point in buying a concrete mixer if you do not intend to take on construction contracts. It is much more interesting and economical to assemble it with your own hands. Moreover, an old two-hundred-liter barrel will do for this purpose.

The website site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required amount of concrete.

The device that you end up with is reliable and easy to use. All that is required of you is to fill the drum with ingredients in certain proportions and add water. The ratio of components depends on what you need the solution for. Usually, in order to get high-quality concrete, they take one part of cement and add one share of sand and screenings (small pebbles) to it. It is possible, and in some cases even necessary, to replace the components with a sand-gravel mixture (SGM).

Homemade concrete mixer from a barrel - advantages and disadvantages

The undoubted advantage in making a concrete mixer with your own hands will be a significant savings in money on buying a factory model. In addition, have you seen the technique that most sellers offer? Even if you have an extra twenty thousand rubles, you are unlikely to want to give them away for a Chinese product of dubious quality. And then, if the Chinese can, then why are you worse? Not the gods burn the pots. Your unit will serve faithfully not only to you, but also to your grandchildren.

The disadvantage here will be, especially if you are not a techie by education, the lack of experience in the manufacture of such mechanisms. But if you are stubborn and love to craft, then you will certainly cope. Good, necessary details lying literally under their feet. Of course, they won't come to you on their own. You will have to rummage through a garage or even a junkyard in a pile of scrap metal.

But don't be so scared. To make a concrete mixer at home, you will need: capacity (in your case old barrel), in which the process of mixing the solution will take place, the axis of rotation, the electric motor (if you are not going to rotate the drum with your hands) and the frame for the base on which it will all be mounted. As you can see, all ingenious is simple. And how to prepare and what tools you will need to implement your idea, you will learn in the next section of this article.

Preparation and tools

Before you start working on a concrete mixer, you need to make a drawing or at least a sketch of the future project and prepare the workspace. A garage or shed is best suited for this. The main thing is that electricity be connected to it, because in business you will need power tools. Yes, and the occupation itself with metal is quite noisy and dirty. Agree that a comfortable apartment is not the place where you can engage in such creativity.

Well, the drawing is ready, and you have prepared the place: you have removed everything that is not relevant. Now let's see what you need from the tools. A welding machine, if you do not own this craft and will assemble the entire structure on bolts, you will not need it. But you definitely can't do without a drill. You will also need a set of screwdrivers and a hacksaw. And, of course, the main detail of the future concrete mixer is a two-hundred-liter barrel.

It will be great if the bottom of the container is non-removable. Otherwise, it may simply fall off during the mixing process. The frame can be made from a metal corner. It is more convenient than pipes when bolted together. As an engine that sets the torque, you can install a gasoline engine or a motor from a mixer drill. The main thing is that its power should be at least 1.3 kW. And do not forget to think over and install spatulas inside the barrel for the most efficient mixing of the components.

Important: the top cover of the barrel must be securely fastened, otherwise you risk throwing concrete over the entire area.

In addition, even at the stage of development and preparation, think about what kind of concrete mixer you want to see - mobile on wheels or stationary. Then you do not have to hastily correct the drawings and make changes to the almost finished design. If you have everything ready, then you can already proceed to the most interesting thing - to make a concrete mixer with your own hands.

How to make a concrete mixer - let's start manufacturing

Let's take a look at the key steps.

1. We assemble the frame of the future unit. It must be durable, because it will have to withstand enormous loads. For the base, a steel corner of 130 mm is best suited. Since you have decided to do without welding machine, then it will not be superfluous to say which bolts to choose for frame assembly. The best option there will be bolts with a diameter of 27 mm. The angle of inclination of the barrel to the base should be 35 degrees. If you have not found a suitable motor, you can make the drive manual. Of course, you will have to make some efforts, but it will still be better than mixing concrete with a shovel in the trough.
2. Before you put the barrel on the gearbox (a device that converts the high angular speed of rotation of the input shaft into a lower one on the output shaft), you need to attach, say, a ring gear (hardened steel disk with teeth) from the Volga engine to its bottom. Practice has shown that it is optimally suited for this purpose: it is made of hardened metal and has teeth on the outside.
3. If there is welding, then attaching the crown is as easy as shelling pears. But we decided to assemble a concrete mixer without using a welding machine. Therefore, we will attach the crown to the bottom of the barrel with bolts. Turn the barrel upside down and attach a crown to the bottom. Make a core (a special rod with a sharpened end) marks on the bottom of the barrel. Simply insert the core into the hole with the sharp end and hit the blunt end with a hammer. Then remove the crown and drill holes with a drill strictly according to the marks made by the core. Place the wreath back on the bottom of the barrel so that the holes line up. Insert the bolts and tighten the nuts on them with wrenches.
4. We put the gearbox on the frame. We do the same as with the crown. We mark with a core the place for the holes on the frame, drill, bolt the gearbox to the frame, and install the barrel itself on it, without first forgetting to make blades in it in order to. Making them is also easy. You can simply fix three corners along the length of the barrel with bolts at an equal distance from each other. We replace the small pulley of the gearbox with a suitable gear. It is she who will set in motion a heavy container with concrete. In order not to suffer for a long time and not reinvent the wheel, a small gear can be taken from the starter bendix (the bendix is ​​the starter anchor shaft) of the same Volga.

The most important part of the whole car is the engine. It must be securely attached to the bracket on the frame.

For tipping a barrel of concrete, a steering wheel is suitable, and not just a handle. It's not that hard to make it. In fact, you can take a sleeve (a piece of pipe) and screw the rods into it radially. Then put on an additional gearbox and secure. But if such a design makes it difficult for you to develop drawings, then you can simply take the finished solution from the container with a shovel. Just do not forget to turn it off before this and wait until it stops.

Although you yourself will assemble an apparatus that helps to knead concrete, this does not mean that elementary safety rules can be neglected. Yes, they have already set everyone on edge, and nevertheless, traumatology statistics show that not everyone observes them. Memorize them well, but rather write with bright paint on your concrete mixer:

• Under no circumstances should you climb inside a rotating barrel.
• If you have assembled a unit with an electric drive, make sure that the power cord is in good condition.
• Keep small children away, even when the machine is not running.
• If you have made a mobile structure, put an emphasis under the wheels before you start using it.
• When mixing concrete, strong vibrations occur. Therefore, monitor the condition of the screw connections and tighten them in time.
• If possible, wear work gloves or work gloves. Cement can cause an allergic reaction on the skin of the hands.
• And never leave the equipment turned on unattended.

Remember that you are responsible for your own health and the safety of those around you! So, making a concrete mixer with your own hands is not difficult at all. In this case, the main thing is the presence of all necessary tools, materials and definitely desire. But you will have an inexpensive and excellent tool that can be useful to you more than once. By the way, you can rent your concrete mixer to neighbors and get a good salary increase from this.