How to make a shower cabin with your own hands: options. Homemade shower cabins at half price: both beautiful and simple, and “not like everyone else” Make a shower with your hands in the house

In the implementation there is a large number of different shower trays. They are quick to install and affordable. absolute majority users, quite practical to operate. But experienced plumbers do not recommend installing such devices in bathrooms.

Are being simplified construction works, the amount of unproductive waste of expensive floor tiles is reduced. Marking is done much faster, it is possible to complete the alignment of tile joints on the walls and floor.
Fewer tiles need to be cut. Due to this, construction time is reduced and, as a result, savings are achieved. financial resources customer.
The process of cleaning the premises is carried out in one step at the same time as washing the floors of the bathroom. Most shower trays are made of plastic, which can react negatively to certain detergents.
Increases the operating time of the shower. All plastics eventually lose their initial plasticity indicators, the material becomes brittle. With little mechanical stress, cracks appear that cannot be repaired. The plastic pallet needs to be completely changed, and this is not only a big waste of time, but also money.
Increases the comfort and safety of using the shower. The floor is located on the same level, there is no need to step over artificial obstacles, which is especially important for children and the elderly.
Users can independently adjust the size of the shower. And change it not once, but as needed. The space for the shower room can be fenced off with a curtain; it is not a problem to rehang it to a new place.

Facing the walls of the room does not constitute any problems, the technology is ordinary and does not differ from the widely used one. Some difficulties may appear during the arrangement of floors. Each type of drain has its own characteristics, but there are general recommendations for all.

The optimum slope of the floor surface is 1 cm per running meter. If the slope is greater, then the comfort of acceptance is significantly reduced. water procedures increase the risk of injury.
The smaller the floor tiles, the easier it is to work with. Pay attention, not faster, but easier. The fact is that during the finishing of the floor with a slope, inconsistencies appear at the corners of the tile, the size of the inconsistencies has a direct relationship with the size of the tile. Experienced professionals strongly recommend using mosaic tiles, with its help it is possible to join sections with different angles of inclination. And such situations arise when, for various technological reasons, the water drain cannot be installed exactly in the center of the shower.
The water drainage system is in most cases not available for periodic maintenance and repair work. In this regard, it is recommended to be very careful about its installation, strictly follow the recommendations of the manufacturers, check the tightness of the connections several times.
Much better finish tiles start from the drain. If done in the opposite direction, then the drain may be in the middle of the tile; it is impossible to cut an even hole in this place. You will have to join in segments, and this is very ugly and indicates a low qualification of the performer.
Always buy Construction Materials with a margin, depending on the qualifications of the contractor and the complexity of the configuration of the premises, the margin ranges from 5–10%. Use only quality materials, attempts at excessive savings can cause significant material losses.

Water is removed into a ladder or channel. The ladder is located approximately in the center of the shower room, the channel is installed at one of the walls of the room. For example, we will consider the most common option for a shower without a tray - a drain (ladder) is located in the middle of the shower.

Table. Types of shower drains

shower drains

Marking and preparation of the base

A very important stage of construction, it is difficult to correct the mistakes made, you need to carefully follow all the recommended operations.

Step 1. Lead the sewer to the location of the shower compartment. For laying, the wall will have to be ditched, the diameter of the pipe for draining the water in the shower is enough 50 mm. The exit of the pipe from the wall should be located in the center of the site, in order to achieve this position, the plastic pipe should be cut.

Practical advice. Don't be too precise. The fact is that the socket connection of the knee makes it possible to slightly adjust the position of the outlet. The limits of fine adjustment are ± 1–1.5 cm, which is quite enough to eliminate oversights.

Step 2 If there is no floor screed in the room, then determine the level of the zero mark. The front part is located at the zero mark ceramic tiles, all dimensions below are indicated with a minus sign. Those at the top are indicated with a plus. This applies to all indications of the level of the location of architectural elements during the construction of various buildings and premises, such standards apply to construction drawings.

Step 3 Install the laser level and adjust it so that the beam is in the middle of the sewer pipe located in the wall.

Put the ladder on the intended installation site and correct its position so that the axis of the inlet pipe is slightly higher than the beam. For example, if it is located at a distance of one meter, then the height difference should be approximately one centimeter.

Practical advice. Do not make too much slope, the water will leave just fine. And a large slope of the floor tiles causes a deterioration in the comfort of taking water procedures.

When setting up the ladder, consider the height of the glass; when assembled, the drain device will be slightly higher due to the upper platform. The thickness of the top of the glass is about a centimeter. Make a mark one centimeter above the beam on the wall, this will be the level of the drain hole of the installed ladder.

Step 4 Make marks above the beam at a height of about 2.5 cm for the slope of the surface. The mark indicates at what level the ceramic plates will lie against the wall of the room. The same marks should be made around the entire perimeter of the shower stall. The thickness of ceramic tiles is within five millimeters, it can be ignored, there will be no noticeable effect on the quality of the pallet. The total thickness of the screed will be a little more than twenty centimeters. This indicator needs to be known to determine the amount of cement-sand mortar for pouring and screeding the base.

Step 5 By rays laser level make marks with a pencil, then beat off the lines on them with a blued rope.

How to make a base

Specific materials and technologies must be selected taking into account the total thickness of the concrete. In our case, the layer height exceeds twenty centimeters, which is quite a lot. To simplify and reduce the cost of work, we offer the following technology.

To the level of joining the drain pipe with the sewer pipe, you can make a screed from a cement-sand mortar with expanded clay. Due to the use of expanded clay, the amount of cement is reduced, work is simplified and the floor under the shower is additionally insulated. The solution should be prepared in the following proportions: for one part of cement, one part of sand and two parts of expanded clay. Water on demand.
A layer of waterproofing is laid on the frozen mortar, and on top is a slab of extruded polystyrene foam about five centimeters thick.
The last layer is a cement-sand screed for ceramic tiles. The thickness is about five centimeters, it is advisable to use a semi-dry solution. It is much easier to work with it, it is possible to save materials and time. In addition, such a screed has two more advantages: a low thermal conductivity compared to ordinary concrete and a short curing time.

Mark lines on the wall for all layers, it makes no sense to adhere to them exactly, but such marks will come in handy for orientation.

Important. Before pouring the solution, be sure to waterproof the joints of the floor and walls. Use any existing materials and technologies for this. Practitioners recommend the use of liquid mastics and special non-woven waterproofing tapes. Their cost is low, and the efficiency is at the appropriate level.

Before starting pouring, a set of special construction measures should be performed to connect the drain, we will talk about them below. The base must be completely hardened, only after that you can lay the top tile.

How the drain is connected

Before starting construction work, carefully study what parts the ladder consists of. This knowledge will help to correctly resolve issues that arise during pouring and avoid mistakes when marking.

Step 1. Using a tape measure, determine the exact location of the ladder.

It is advisable to install it in the middle of the shower, but with a certain adjustment. We have already mentioned above that the edges of the ladder must rest against the edges of the tile, otherwise there will be great difficulties during its cutting. And the cut tile in the center of the floor looks very ugly.

Practical advice. If the tiles in the room have already been laid, and only the area under the shower room remains to be completed, then the position of the drain must accurately take into account the location of the tile joints.

Cut tiles should be placed against the walls, where they are not so conspicuous. If you can’t match the position of the outlet of the drain and the sewer pipe, it’s not a problem. Due to the rubber seals, the device can be slightly shifted in one direction or another.

Are these adjustments not enough? The problem will have to be solved by bending plastic pipes. How to bend them? Gently heat the plastic pipe with a building hair dryer around the entire circumference, constantly control its temperature with your hand. As soon as the plastic becomes soft, begin to slowly bend the pipe in the desired direction. Make sure there are no sharp bends. Hold the pipe in the desired position until the plastic has cooled. To speed up the cooling process, the pipe can be cooled with a wet cloth.

Step 2 Make the formwork for the ladder. It can be made from OSB board, plywood or moisture-resistant drywall. Before manufacturing, temporarily connect the assembled drain to the sewer pipe and install it in place. Remove formwork dimensions. The distance between it and the elements of the ladder should be only a few centimeters. This technological distance is required to facilitate the final installation of the drain.

Knock down the formwork with small nails or self-tapping screws, the height of the formwork should be several centimeters higher than the diameter of the pipelines connected to the ladder.

Step 3 Install the assembled formwork on the ceiling, check its position according to the lines drawn on the wall. To prevent displacement of the structure during pouring with concrete, it is recommended to fix it. You can drive a few nails or dowels around the perimeter, the main thing is that the formwork does not change its location during work.

Step 4 Prepare a cement-sand mortar. If possible, then use expanded clay as additional fillers, if not, then fill it with one solution. Pour it in turn on each side of the formwork and carefully level the plane with a trowel.

Step 5 Check the filling is correct, allow time for solidification. The time depends on the composition of the solution used, in most cases, work can be continued one day after the end of the pour.

Step 6 When the solution has hardened, dismantle the formwork. To do this, gently beat off the formwork parts one by one with a hammer, try not to damage the fill. If it was found during dismantling, often the solution did not gain the minimum strength - stop dismantling and wait another day.

Important. If the room is very warm and dry, then the solution should be moistened daily with plenty of water. Without water, chemical reactions cannot optimally proceed; the solution will never gain the planned strength.

Step 7 Install the ladder in the prepared place, check its position.

Most devices have height-adjustable feet, which greatly facilitates the installation of equipment. Connect the outlet of the drain to the sewer pipe. The device includes a plastic pipe for these purposes. Measure the required length and cut.

You can cut with a grinder with a metal disc or a hacksaw. After cutting, be sure to remove the burrs and make a chamfer. The burrs are cut off with a sharp knife; a chamfer can be made with a grinder. Hold it in one hand, and with the other, carefully lean the end of the tube against the flat surface of the disk. Constantly rotate the pipe and achieve a bevel. No need to be upset if the chamfer width is not the same around the entire circumference, this parameter does not matter. The chamfer is needed only so that the rubber gland is not damaged during the connection of the elements. Surfaces should be moistened with soapy water or any oil before bonding.

Practical advice. For some models of drains, the nozzles are connected with glue, this somewhat simplifies the installation process. There is no need to make chamfers, the ends of the pipes are lubricated with glue and inserted into each other.

Application of glue (on both sides of the nozzle)

Step 8 Cover the surface with waterproofing. It can be purchased separately, but there are options for completing devices with waterproofing. Align the surface of the material, be sure to bend it at the junction of the floor and walls. The height of the hem should be 1–1.5 cm lower than the plane of the ceramic tile.

Step 9 Check the tightness of the connections. To do this, pour water into the drain hole, wait a bit and inspect all connections. Water must completely go into the sewer pipe, and the surface under the drain elements must remain dry.

Step 10 Cut off excess waterproofing, taking into account the height of the hem. At the extreme points, make marks and end assembly knife delete the excess under the ruler. Attach the bends to the wall with waterproofing mastic, allow time for complete drying. The length of the overlaps at the corners must be at least 10 cm.

Step 11 Insert a plastic cup into the ladder.

Manufacturers specifically make its height with a margin, which allows, if necessary, to reduce the element. Using a level, determine the slope of the floor plane and adjust the glass to the required height to ensure the desired value. Cut with a hacksaw, remove burrs with a file or knife. Lubricate the outer surfaces of the glass with oil, put on the rubber o-ring and insert the element into place. Close the hole with a temporary cap. It does not allow the mortar to get inside, and after laying the tiles it is removed.

glass mount

Step 12 Apply marks to the bent waterproofing, according to which the screed for the base of the ceramic tile will be made. Do not forget about the slope, check the markings several times.

Step 13 Prepare a screed solution, pour it gradually onto the waterproofing. Start leveling the plane with a trowel. This is the most difficult operation for beginners. The fact is that you need to simultaneously make a slope and break the square into four identical segments.

How it's done?

When leveling the mortar, pay attention to the marks on the wall. This is the first line of control. The second is the edge of the ladder, the screed should be about a centimeter below the upper plane.
Using a level, check the levelness of the screed along all edges of the section, correct deviations if necessary.
With the tip of a trowel, draw straight lines from each corner of the ladder to the corner of the floor. If your hand is difficult, then use any long straight ruler.
With a trowel, slowly remove the mortar on each segment in small portions, try to remove existing roundings. Keep in mind that you will have to work by eye, do not rush. If you see mistakes, then sketch the solution again and start all over again.

Do not be discouraged if the first time does not work out, over time, experience will appear and the work will go much faster. At the finish, you can use a special grater, it has one end in the form of a triangle. If there is no such tool, then pick up any rail along the length. The dimensions of the rail should be 1-2 cm less than the distance from the ladder to the wall. Set the bar in the center of the segment, let one end rest against the ladder, and slowly move the other end to the left / right and level the surface in this way. A small tubercle near the wall is then trimmed with a grater. Everything is normal - leave the base to solidify.

Laying finish tiles

If the base is made with high quality, then there will be no big problems with laying the tiles. Before laying tiles on the floor, finish the sections of the walls adjacent to the floor. The technology is ordinary, to maintain the same width of tile joints, use standard crosses.

Step 1. First, the second tile is laid. Its angle should lie at a distance of 2-3 mm from the line dividing the square into segments. The distance depends on the width of the joints and is selected in each case individually, taking into account the characteristics of the materials.

Video - Laying tiles in the shower

How to make a shower cabin with your own hands? This issue is subject to detailed consideration. It can be set up in any way. In this matter, it is worth starting from your own preferences and financial capabilities.

Before the direct organization of a bathing place, it is worth weighing all the pros and cons, as well as choosing a very suitable material. A few words about the popular options for shower products in the bathroom.

Do-it-yourself work can involve the use of any purchased materials, and the owner of the house is able to make everything, taking into account his tastes, without acquiring a foundation for the design. See the prestigious cabin photo options below.

Acrylic, plastic, polycarbonate

The polycarbonate shower cabin is considered the most popular in use. If you decide to purchase this type of bottom, then you will avoid problems with waterproofing the floor, and also its surface will not be slippery, so there is no need to use a rubber mat. There is no need to equip the ladder and raise the floor level.

Glass panels, glass blocks, ceramics

All of these materials are quite fragile, but their use allows you to solve the problem with an unfinished design. Usually, such raw materials are bought for sashes for decorating a standing shower. In addition, such materials are perfectly combined with erected pallets and half-walls of tiles and mosaics. A full-fledged shower cabin can be made with your own hands from tiles.

Wood, plastic, artificial stone

Such shower structures are rarely installed in apartments, due to their exposure to moisture, however, in summer cottages, this material is very popular. Its advantages are that it is aesthetic and harmless to humans. A plastic homemade shower cabin well isolates the surrounding room from noise, and also does not let moisture out. Fake diamond looks very impressive, especially if the bathroom has a chic design in an individual style.

Why cabins? Main advantages

Increasingly today, bathing cabins are being installed in the house, fully equipped on their own. Such designs have a number of justifying characteristics:

Note! If you think that a fully equipped shower room without a pallet with your own hands will be cheaper, this is a delusion. Most likely, you will need to invest a little more, but in the future, when taking water procedures, you will feel the abundance of all functions.

Preparatory stage

Do-it-yourself planning of work in an apartment or preparatory stage necessary in order to take into account all the nuances, as well as in order to make a do-it-yourself shower cabin from a photo tile (see below +++) without flaws. However, starting work on the arrangement, you will have to work very hard, namely, to provide for absolutely everything, from sewerage to accessories for the shower cabin.

Purchase of materials

Start with raw materials. Be sure to buy cement mortar, sand, tiles (non-slip), tile adhesive, pipelines for laying water supply and sewerage systems. Check the presence of all sealants, sealing rubbers and connectors. You will need this if you do everything yourself, including pallets. Otherwise, buy a finished bottom from suitable material and all accessories for it.

Availability of accessories

It is necessary to choose mixers, watering cans, functional levers according to your tastes, of course, based on how the shower stall will line up. It's a great idea to put a rain shower head in your standing shower, but first you'll have to think about how to stabilize the water pressure if this is a problem. Such a do-it-yourself shower cabin has a variety of photos.

Site preparation

You need to start preparing the corner immediately before installation. This applies to all types of installation (do it yourself or using a purchased shower). Please note that, using ready-made pallets for a standing shower, you need a perfectly flat floor surface, and if you plan to build a booth without a bottom, you should do minimum slope and bring him to the ladder in the floor.

Doors of the future soul

For each type of shower structure, you have to choose the doors separately. Some will be interested in a glass, plastic or wooden model, while others, on the contrary, tend to choose cheaper analogues: a frame with a film or tiled walls. Thus, a shower without a shower cabin is obtained.

Installation of a shower without a tray

Let's make shower cabins without a pallet step by step.

Note! All compounds and materials, including tile adhesive and tiles, must be water-repellent. Of course, they will cost more, but you can’t save on this.

Advice! To form the walls in a standing shower without a tray, it is better to choose a non-wetting opaque film or a water-repellent fabric.

We put a shower in a wooden house

Wood, although a natural material, is quite capricious. However, a shower cabin can be successfully equipped with your own hands in wooden house. The main thing is to first take care of high-quality waterproofing.

moment of preparation

This includes everything related to the procurement of funds and inventory. Be sure to plan the space in the bathroom. It would be better if a do-it-yourself shower cabin with a pallet is placed in the corner, and tempered or ordinary glass or polycarbonate will be the best raw material for the construction.

Construction of a shower cabin

Here you will need to pre-treat the adjacent surfaces in a private house with a moisture repellent. Then plumbing and sewerage waste systems, do not forget about the ventilation of the room. In this case, a stationary fixture will not be enough, since the tree is very quickly able to absorb moisture and steam.

We put a not very deep acrylic base, and we make the sashes from polycarbonate. We make all four sides in order to less expose the walls of a wooden structure to dampness. To do this, we purchase fasteners and a nickel-plated frame (can be made of stainless steel). We fasten all the clamps to the walls of the room, taking into account the height of the future shower.

Note! To equip a shower in a private house, it is better to use polycarbonate that is not affected by temperature, otherwise, the surfaces will begin to deform, and a do-it-yourself shower cabin will collapse over time.

Next, we attach a door to the canopies or hang a regular shower film. Just in case, re-insulate the wood in the bathing room. In such rooms, a built-in shower will also look good.

Regardless of what type of shower structure is made, it is easier to make it yourself, as the owner will know what components he used.

The task that the siphon has for shower tray is to quickly and efficiently drain the water after bathing. However, not all drain devices are the same ...

Shower cubicle set up with my own hands, will not only make your stay more comfortable, but also save money. Homemade boxing will save you from the cost of attracting third-party and not always conscientious workers. Equally important is the moral satisfaction received from the results of their work. Is it true?

We will tell you how a shower cabin should be built in a private house with your own hands, we will help you in choosing the best plumbing fixture. We will show you how to develop a project and bring the idea of \u200b\u200bbuilding a hygienic homemade product to life.

In the article presented by us, the process of building and arranging a shower is described step by step. The technology for installing the booth and connecting it to the sewer largely depends on the chosen modification of the pallet.

Before proceeding directly to the description of the assembly process, we will briefly consider the main types of shower stalls available for sale, the criteria for their selection.

Variety of models: what is better to choose

The shower area is simple design from the pallet and curtains. Instead of the walls that are typical for a full-fledged shower stall, the walls of the room are used. Ceiling at shower enclosure No. Its main advantages are low cost and compactness.

Shower enclosure - one of the simplest, most convenient and cheapest models of shower cabins, takes up minimal space and is suitable for self-assembly

More "fancy" models have a roof and walls. Expensive multifunctional units have rich technical equipment: Turkish bath or Charcot shower, flavored steam mode, different types of hydromassage, additional functions, various lighting.

An expensive model of a shower cabin with a hydromassage function, lighting and a deep tray. Requires not only sufficient space for installation, but also the necessary pressure in the water supply

The control of such booths is carried out by a complex electronic system. Before buying an expensive cabin equipped with a hydromassage function, you first need to find out the level of water pressure in the pipes.

Combined showers are a kind of compromise for those who like to take a bath with a hydromassage and have a full-fledged shower at home. Combined models are distinguished by the original and stylish design– on the market they are often positioned as home SPA centers.

It is to the pallet that the products impose increased requirements. A high-quality pallet must withstand a large load, and at maximum allowable weight the user will not crack, bend or deform.

Shower trays are made from different materials.

What are curtains?

The second most important element is the cabin curtains, which can be hinged and sliding. Swing doors require more space. They are single-sided and double-sided.

As for sliding curtains, they have from two to six wings, which are held by a rubber magnetic tape. The curtains move on rollers hidden inside the frame of the shower cabin. High-quality curtains should open and close almost silently.

Corner shower cubicle with sliding doors. In addition to models with transparent plastic (glass), there are options with frosted curtains.

Shower curtains are made of polystyrene or high quality tempered glass. Products made of polystyrene are quite cheap and have a small weight, but they quickly lose their transparency, stains remain on them.

Glass curtains are expensive high-quality products.

Hinged doors made of hardened steel frosted glass. In their manufacture, specially processed safety glass is used, which surpasses even automotive glass in strength.

Water and dirt are very easily washed off the glass surface - the material does not absorb anything and does not fade over the years. You can also buy a booth with curtains made of classic transparent, tinted, colored and rough glass.

Shower project development

With apparent technical complexity, the independent construction of a shower cabin is, in fact, quite a feasible procedure for a simple layman, especially for a hard-working owner.

Just as the construction of any capital structure begins with the development of a project, it is necessary to think over before starting work on equipping a shower in a private house with your own hands.

It is advisable to mark on paper the main plans and schemes, for example:

a plan for placing a shower cabin in a designated room;
schemes for connecting to power supply networks, water supply and sewerage;
the procedure for equipping the shower room with a ventilation system.

The preparation of the room for the shower and the direct arrangement of the cabin in it are carried out in several stages.

Full-fledged shower boxes, which can be found in any hardware store, are far from always convenient to use. Limping quality, small internal dimensions, high price. In this article, we will tell you in detail and show how to make a shower cabin with your own hands: from installing a pallet and drain, to installing doors and tiling.

Such a cabin (shower corner) will be cheaper, better and more convenient!

Shower cabins come in several types, for example, the most popular options are - a flat drip tray or a simple floor drain. In this case, it will be possible to freely enter the booth for children and the elderly. The space in the bathroom in the apartment will increase significantly in size and the space will take on a different look.

In a narrow room, a built-in cabin of suitable dimensions would be an excellent option, for the device of which you only need curtains or glass doors. It is inexpensive, practical and convenient.

Shower cabin without tray (tile tray)

When planning a water treatment site, please note that using shower trays is not always the best option. rational decision. Even at the repair stage, making a shower with a tile tray is much easier and more reliable.

Showers located in fitness centers can serve as an example. The same floor can be made in a private house or in the country. When installing a drain ( professionals call it a ladder) a sewer pipe is brought to the place of installation of the ladder, the border of the shower room is lined with bricks, and its inner part is poured with concrete and waterproofed.

Advantages of this shower option:

convenient cleaning of the floor surface after a shower;
Maximum reliability of all elements and plumbing (we select it ourselves);
the possibility of stumbling somewhere is reduced to “no”;
the ability to choose any size of the cabin in accordance with the room.

See also: with photos and comments about convenience.

Use of flat shower trays in the floor

shower trays are alternative. It is cheaper, but at the same time - not so convenient and reliable. You can choose a shower base with low sides, including acrylic ones.

The location of the sewer pipe will depend on where the drain hole is located on the pallet. Therefore, you need to take care of laying communications (water and sewer pipes) in advance.

The installation process will not cause any particular difficulties. There are adjustable legs under the base.

Ready-made shower trays are a simpler option, but some will find it less aesthetic and convenient. Such pallets are sold in almost any plumbing store, they are easy to install and do not require special knowledge during installation.

Benefits of prefabricated pallets:

easy and quick installation with prefabricated parts;
pallet height adjustment with legs;
the use of a special border for sealing joints;
Possibility of installation on wooden floor, with preliminary protection from moisture.

The disadvantages include: an outdated appearance, not reliable materials that can sag and even break over time.

Instructions for self-assembly

The technology for creating a shower cabin with your own hands takes place in stages. In progress installation work, it is very important to comply with all requirements for the reliability of communications and waterproofing.

Brick pallet

Before installing the pallet itself, you must perform preparatory work with a base. If the room has not previously been made concrete screed, it needs to be done. After the rough screed dries, the place intended for the location of the pallet must be treated with waterproofing. It is usually treated in 2 layers with an interval of 4-6 hours.

As waterproofing material some use a polymer film, but this is fundamentally wrong. It is better to give preference to bituminous mastic. The insulation technology involves applying the material not only to the base of the floor, but also to the walls in places of wetting ( therefore, you need to take care of this even at the repair stage, before laying the tiles on the walls).

After that, experts recommend once again forming a screed, and re-waterproofing. It is important to leave 1-2 centimeters in height from the drain point, because. in the future, it will be necessary to form a finishing screed and finish it with tiles.

Multi-layered works Provides a high level of leakage protection, to the rooms below. Also, in this case, resistance to the formation of fungi, mold, and other harmful microorganisms increases.

to create more comfortable operating conditions, at the first stages of creation, it is worth taking care of heating. It can be represented by a floor heating system, under a rough screed, or a sheet of expanded polystyrene. In the latter case, it should be borne in mind that the entire structure will rise in level by several centimeters.
each stage must be accompanied by geometric checks;
foundation reinforcement can be performed metal mesh embedded in the screed.

After the screed and waterproofing are dry, you can start pouring the self-leveling mixture. This layer is also primed and waterproofed. It is on the quality of this layer that all the characteristics of the structure depend.. To achieve maximum performance, attention should be paid to the corners, and the seam around the drain.

The solution of the filler floor must be made a little thicker than usual in order to be able to form a slope towards the drain.

According to standard technology, the sides of the pallet have a height of one brick, but if desired, they can be made higher. The main thing is to ensure that in the process of taking a shower, the water does not exceed the height of the fence.

Plum formation

observance of a slope of 3 degrees, in the area where the drain is connected to the sewer pipes. This angle size is sufficient to ensure optimal water flow rate, while minimizing the risk of blockages and water stagnation.
tightness of all connecting elements;
for the drain system, it is better to give preference to high-quality plastic pipes and fittings, as they are not subject to corrosive processes and external influences;
rigid fixation of the drain ladder. Concrete pouring is carried out only after the reliability of the system fastening has been checked.

Pallet tiling

The technique of laying tiles in a pallet is not much different from the standard finish, but there are some features. First of all, they relate to the choice of adhesive mixture. It must meet all the criteria for moisture resistance. The same parameters must correspond to the material for processing the seams.

Tiling technology:

the beginning of laying occurs from the corner;
the application of the adhesive solution is carried out with a notched trowel in order to achieve the necessary evenness;
the mixture is applied to the base, not to the tile;
fixing the tile occurs by pressing it to the base;
alignment is carried out by tapping with a mallet;
special crosses provide the same thickness of the seams.

Often, mosaic tiles are chosen for home-made booths, because. it makes it easier to work with corners and smooth transitions.

Glass walls and doors

After all the work on the formation of a shower tray with your own hands is completed, you can proceed to fixing the walls and doors of the future design. To do this, in building stores, you must initially select the elements that are optimal in size.

Manufacturers present a wide range of glass walls and doors:

faceted - products in which the edges have original shape, through the use of special processing technology;
curved - stencil glass;
stained glass - the finished product is glued together from elements of different sizes and colors;

The easiest to install are swing doors. Their installation does not require special knowledge and complex fittings. Hinges are already included with glass doors, so you just need to correctly install their supporting parts on the wall.

In this process, it is very important to take appropriate measurements so that the door does not cling to the pallet, or a gap does not form ( against the wall, and between the door and the edge of the pallet). Having measured the distance from the edges of the door to the center of the hinges, these dimensions must be transferred to the walls. After that, using a drill, holes are made in the marked areas.

Upon completion of all work, the supporting part of the hinge is screwed into the wall, so that the pin is located with the open part up. This arrangement is necessary for the smooth putting on of the doors.

A do-it-yourself shower cabin in a private house saves on a hot day, which is especially critical for hot weather in the summer in our country. Often the cost of ready-made options exceeds all acceptable limits. It is difficult to take into account all the rules when creating such a design. An amateurish approach leads to mistakes and restructuring.

The article contains information:

what types of cabins are there, their device and materials of manufacture;
basic approaches to waterproofing methods, summing up communications;
how to make a cabin without the use of expensive materials or purchased parts;
features of the selection of doors for the dimensions of the cab.

Shower cabin device

A do-it-yourself shower cabin in a private house allows you to save space and time when taking a shower. It has a large number of additional features that are not available in conventional baths - hydromassage, tropical shower.

Device cabin consists of:

the pallet in which the drain is located;
walls;
doors or curtains;
shower system - watering cans, taps and others;
optional - ceiling, if you want to limit the drain.

The tray performs the function of a drain and a “floor” for a shower cabin - this will be discussed in detail below, in the two corresponding paragraphs.

The walls limit the space - they do not allow water to enter the rest of the room from the cabin. They are made both transparent and opaque, creating a backlight. The walls are made of different materials - glass, plastic or acrylic. Sometimes they are replaced with curtains, like a door.

The shower system is diverse - it includes an ordinary hand shower, a ceiling-mounted, “tropical” shower, and various types of hydromassages. A common occurrence is a ceiling shower and a hand shower with additional points and conventional control knobs on the same panel.

The presence of a ceiling depends on the height of the ceiling in the room itself and the installation of various elements of the shower system in it. If necessary, a second, “false” ceiling is created, in which there are cranes or pipes, or the cabin is limited from above by panels.

with pallet

Shower cabins with a pallet are a classic version of the device. Sold in stores, in the form of finished products. The tray has a water drain and other equipment that increases the comfort of use, such as underfloor heating.

Do-it-yourself shower cabins with a pallet are easy to make from acrylic, plastic - any materials that are resistant to water. Creating a cabin bottom from the floor is not.

Some pallets produced by the manufacturer for self-creation of the finished structure have a serious disadvantage - incorrect calculation of the legs or savings in production lead to low stability. A plus is the ability to move the cabin in the future.

without pallet

Options without a pallet are distinguished by installation directly on the floor of the room. The space is pre-prepared - tiled and drained. Such a solution has both positive sides (greater strength and complete stability) and negative ones (the inability to move the shower cabin if necessary).

To prepare the floor, several successive processes are carried out:

Prepare a sewer to drain water falling onto a niche.
Make a waterproofing and place the trim over the insulation.

It is not possible to create a floor for a shower cabin on every foundation - wooden, using wood trim, will simply rot.

Table: the main differences between showers with and without a tray

Characteristic	with pallet	without pallet
tightness	High	Low
Injury hazard	High	Low
Sustainability	Low (depending on pallet height)	Complete
Strength	Low	High
Mobility	High	Absent
Difficulty in creating	Low (more often bought in a store)	High
Price	High	Low

Choosing a place to install a shower cabin with your own hands

The installation location depends on:

weight of the cabin and materials of manufacture;
ease of use;
bringing communications to the place.

The weight of the cabin is important when choosing a location in that a large cabin acts on the foundation. If the type of foundation under the bathroom is not previously known, it is advisable to additionally check before starting the design. The floor will not collapse under the cab instantly, but the heavy structure will exert constant pressure, which will sooner or later lead to a subsidence.

Cabins without a pallet lead to increased dampness in the foundation. For this reason, the use of cabins without a pallet on wooden foundations or foundations with little waterproofing should be avoided. Under the constant influence of moisture, cracks and mold will occur in concrete.

Ease of use lies in the ability to freely enter the cab. It all depends on the type installed doors- retractable require less space, swing - more. Sliding doors require a suitable distance in the walls.

When positioned relative to the place in the room, everything depends on the size and type of the cabin. With a small size of the room, a reasonable solution is the location in the corner. With a large one, you should either occupy part of the room, against the wall, saving on creating walls, or placing it in the center, creating a unique interior.

The closer the cabin is to the wall, the easier it is to create convenient system communications. Communications are usually carried out in the walls and floor. If the cabin is created after the completion of the design of the room, you should calculate the connection points and make the cabin as close to them as possible. Otherwise, installing a shower cabin with your own hands is associated with the need to disassemble the finished coating and additionally conduct communications.

suitable option

Calculation of the dimensions of the shower cabin

The calculation is related to the minimum adequate dimensions and strength of the material used to create the walls. The minimum dimensions are 80x80 or 90x90 centimeters - it is uncomfortable to wash in a smaller room. The minimum height is 1900 mm with the installation of a rain shower and 1850 mm without it, but the indicators are already inconvenient - it is difficult to raise your hands in the cabin.

If desired, the dimensions of the cabin increase in different directions, laying the size of the shower panel or other communications. When creating a cabin with a larger width, add a distance and increase by the size of the maximum protruding element.

For an accurate calculation of indicators, count on the height and size of the people using them. Add 300–500 mm to the approximate height, so during washing there will be enough space for raising your hands. Additionally increase the distance if you plan to install a rain shower.

It is convenient to work with materials when they are immediately ready for use. When creating the walls, glass, plastic, or polycarbonate, and acrylic are used. Glass has an optimal width when bending strength and thickness are combined. The distance is taken equal to 1200mm - in this case it is convenient to make walls 1200mm wide, which eliminates the need to cut glass.

When creating a glass cabin, take the width and length with a size of 1200 mm and a height of 2000 mm as the minimum values, and choose the maximum based on the possibilities and your own desire. Cabins with a size of 120x80 are considered comfortable.

Waterproofing

Sealing is used to protect the foundation and walls from the development of mold due to high humidity. Waterproofing is necessary for all types of cabins with and without a pallet. The process is conditionally divided into two subspecies:

cabin insulation;
bathroom insulation.

bituminous mastic

Cabin waterproofing depends on the presence of a pallet and doors. Cabins with tight doors and a pallet are considered protected by the installation of airtight rubber bands in them. Depending on the type of door, the level of waterproofing varies - sliding doors are easier to make airtight than swing doors.

Assembling a shower cabin with your own hands implies independent creation insulation, which imposes increased requirements on the selection of the size of the doors and their adjustment. It is necessary to lay the thickness of the gasket in the size of the doors. This problem does not arise with purchased doors, since assembly is simplified in them.

Insulation is not technically possible for options with curtains and without a pallet. Water will get outside of it, so you should resort to sealing the bathroom.

In this case, tightness is achieved in the entire bathroom. After hitting the floor or walls, the water evaporates, and the steam is removed into the ventilation system. This method is more reliable, but requires a number of additional preparation processes.

First of all, a complete floor screed is performed using a waterproofing substrate. To do this, the floor is released and filled with a special solution. Wait until it dries evenly.

The walls are not insulated (except for joints - they are additionally treated with a screed or putty), but they require hydrophobic materials - tiles or various polymeric plates suitable for drying water. Ordinary concrete walls absorb water and crumble over time - the bonds between cement and sand are destroyed due to hydration.

All joints in tiles or panels are treated with antiseptic agents that prevent mold from developing. Otherwise, in a few years it will be more difficult to remove the fungus and bacteria - this is especially critical for a shower cabin in a wooden house or in a country house, in a bathhouse.

Communications

Communications refers to the supply of water and the disposal of sewage. In a private house, the moment should be thought out in advance, since it is necessary to bring pipes to the place of the intended location even at the stage of laying the primary communications of the building.

Sewer connection

Do-it-yourself connection of a shower cabin to the sewer for pallet and bottomless options is carried out in different ways. Pallets are connected through a coupling of the required size using a thread or soldering. The sewer outlet is located under the cab, but adapters with a knee are used to solve the problem - they relieve the cab of unpleasant odors.

Cabins without a pallet require the preliminary creation of a drain system. The collection is carried out by means of a slight inclination towards the drain point into which water is collected. The drain is fixed in the floor and connected to the general sewer through the knee, hiding in the podium.

Water connection

Connecting a shower cabin to the water supply with your own hands is easier than connecting it to the sewer. To effectively drain water without visible pipe elements, mark the location of the shower panel or faucet in advance. The adapter for hot / cold water from the pipe is located at a distance of 100–150 mm - otherwise hot water will heat cold water.

Regarding the diameter, it all depends on the pressure of the system. Universal is the size of 27-30mm, which will provide enough pressure to use both conventional watering cans and a tropical mixer. Make pipes the same in width and direction - so mixing cold and hot water will be optimal.

Connection to the water supply is carried out by adapters for the selected mixing system. To increase the tightness, either water and temperature resistant silicone sealants or plumbing thread are used.

Tools and materials

Manufacturing materials are varied. To create the walls of the cabin are used:

glass;
acrylic;
plastic;
concrete partitions;
drywall followed by tiling.

All materials look great as walls. Concrete partitions and walls made of concrete are not quite classical in understanding, but they will help to separate the room and cabin, dividing the space. Acrylic or plastic is suitable for a cabin with a pallet due to its low weight, concrete and glass are used for palletless cabins. Additionally, polycarbonate options are popular. .

The pallet is created from dense plastic or concrete, followed by lining with a suitable finishing material. Plastic ones are already made in the desired shape, with niches for installing walls. Self-manufacturing a plastic pallet is difficult, so you have to turn to purchased options.

Set of tools depends on the materials used. The most required are:

gun for liquid nails or sealant;
corner;
meter.

All other tools are used as needed. To work with plastic pipes additionally needed:

soldering iron;
screwdriver for attaching clips to walls;
hacksaw or knife for cutting plastic pipes.

To create a niche for a cabin made of concrete you will need the following tools:

construction mixer (for large volumes);
nozzle for a drill or screwdriver for kneading;
Master OK.

When working with concrete, it must be subsequently finished. Tile work may require a tile cutter to cut the tile to size without splitting.

To work with a plastic pallet and create walls made of plastic or acrylic, you will need a screwdriver and sealant. All fastening of parts takes place on special clips - sheets can split from a different type of impact.

Glass will require a good glass cutter, and the thicker the sheet, the more difficult it is to cut it. It is advisable to pre-order glass prepared in size, since there is a risk of splitting the entire canvas during cutting or installation. When working with already finished and hardened sheets, this will not happen.

Do-it-yourself shower cabin in a private house: a step-by-step master class

We propose to consider step by step instructions how to create a shower cabin with your own hands in a private house from a plasterboard frame with a tile lining. In addition, the process of how to install the simplest cabin is disassembled.

To create a cabin you will need:

drywall;
profiles;
bricks to create a pallet;
tile;
drain;
masonry mix or cement;
coupler;
liquid latex waterproofing;
tile adhesive.

Despite the use of waterproofing, it is necessary to buy screed, glue and masonry mixture marked “Waterproof”. Otherwise, after using the shower, water will seep through the structure, destroying the strength of the joints.

Creation of a pallet

We create a pallet from bricks. Such homemade pallets are convenient for possible repairs.

	1. Mix the masonry mix according to package instructions. Knead with a mixer or a regular spatula.
	2. Bricks are laid directly on the old tiles, so dismantling is missed. In this case, this is not critical, since in the future extra tile will be removed and a new one installed. A drain is installed on the second level of bricks. Assemble it according to the instructions. The drain rests on the bricks, with the installation of a drain at an angle of 5-7 degrees - so the water drain will get rid of excess odors without using a knee.
	3. After installing the drain, finish laying the bricks. Along the edges of the masonry, a side one brick high is laid out. It serves as the basis for future drywall walls.
	4. On brickwork a floor screed is poured, which creates a flat surface. It should be poured with a layer of 3-4 mm, maintaining the level throughout the pan. The screed dries for about a day.
	5. At the end, we clean the surface with sandpaper.

Frame erection

The frame is made from metal profiles- will be attached on top drywall sheets. The profile is used in two types - guides and rails. The profiles are screwed onto the dowels into the walls and brickwork.

	6. Drill a hole with a drill or puncher. A dowel is inserted and a screw is screwed on top.
	7. Place the profile on the wall, lay the slab. Under it, place pipes for supplying hot and cold water. Installation takes place after the complete assembly of the frame.
	8. After installing the frame, start preparing the drywall. A solid sheet is installed on the side with the mixer. Holes for hot and cold water are pre-drilled in it.
	9. Sheathe the frame with drywall.
	10. Screw the sheets onto the screws.
	11. For the durability of the pallet, go over the entire surface with waterproofing. In order not to make a mistake with the choice, buy waterproofing for residential and non-residential premises, with a scope in showers.
	12. Treat the surface with a brush.

tiling

	13. Cut the tiles into the required pieces with a tile cutter. For work, it is not necessary to buy it - just take it from friends or rent it.
	14. Lay tiles from the corner. It is better to start from the floor. Install between each individual tile plastic corner to help keep the distance.
	15. After all tiles are installed, grout the gaps. It is applied in the gap between the tiles.
	16. After setting, wipe off excess grout residue. Dampen the sponge with water and quickly wipe off the excess. You need to wash it quickly - it will be problematic to remove it later.

The shower cubicle is finished. If necessary, install swing door or a regular curtain.

Video: do-it-yourself shower installation

More information on how to create and install a shower cabin with your own hands in the video below.

Mixer selection

How to choose the right mixer only the owner will answer. The choice is mediated by two important points:

cab dimensions;
requirements for appearance and functionality.

If the second point falls entirely on the shoulders of the owner, the first should be discussed separately. A shower cabin is a limited space where every extra centimeter is valuable. The large size of the panel or faucet can make a small cabin uncomfortable.

Regardless of size, faucets with hidden elements - pipes, the main system - are considered an excellent option to save space and improve ergonomics. Only control levers and a watering can protrude to the surface of the cabin, the rest is in the wall.

A rain shower for full use requires 100-300mm above a person's head - a smaller distance makes it uncomfortable.

Swing or sliding doors?

The choice of doors depends on the type of cabin and the location in the bathroom. In a small bathroom, sliding doors are considered more convenient, in a large one - swing doors. Please note that in order to install sliding doors special niches and fastenings are required.

We offer you more a few practical tips when building a structure:

We recommend creating a cabin design in advance, before installing the first elements of water supply and sewerage. This factor will avoid problems with eyeliner in the future.
If there are no thoughts on the appearance of the cabin, a photo of finished products will come to the rescue - both serial and home-made. Borrowing is not allowed.
The corner cabin, although it is the smallest in size, its independent creation is difficult. If you decide to create it yourself, you should purchase at least full-fledged doors that ensure the tightness of the structure.
When creating a brick pallet, buy a new brick, even if the cabin is created on the street and there are no requirements for its quality. Over time, the old brick will crack, causing the pallet to collapse.
When choosing a tile, stop at large sizes separate plate. Smaller ones require more handling experience as they are more difficult to align with each other.