Tiled laying. Laying tiles on the wall with your own hands: detailed step-by-step instructions. Photo of the process of laying tiles with your own hands

Facing with ceramic tiles is a great way for a couple of decades to deprive yourself of the pleasure of regularly updating worn, peeling, interior surfaces that have lost their visual appeal. In addition to economic priorities, tiling facilitates maintenance processes, improves the aesthetic and technical qualities of floors, walls, and fragmentary areas. New series of ceramic tiles, imitating old tiles, expensive woods, natural minerals, can replace any finishing materials. Instead, wear-resistant tiles are successfully used, which are affordable for apartment owners with any income level. Do-it-yourself tile laying will help to reduce the cost of facing by almost half.

The tile is traditionally used for finishing rooms with specific operating conditions. He is placed in utility rooms requiring frequent cleaning with water and active agents household chemicals. Tiles are completely or partially laid out on surfaces in bathrooms, hallways and kitchens are trimmed with it. The material is not sensitive to the action of an aggressive environment, water, steam, temperature fluctuations. It does not wear out, retains colorful saturation throughout the entire operational period.

It is pointless to convince of the priorities of facing ceramics, because almost every apartment has tiling. However, for owners who have never done this work, laying seems to be a super-difficult task. The work, indeed, is laborious and painstaking, but accessible to the novice master. It is enough for the future stacker to get acquainted with the technology, after which you can safely proceed to the implementation of the idea. In addition to information about the technological rules for tiling, he will need patience, tools and material to finish his home.

Planning and calculations - a competent start of work

The first step of the performer will be the measurement of the area, which does not always perfectly match the BTI data. With a simple tape measure, you need to measure the axes and diagonals, study the horizontal and vertical planes, with a triangle, align the parameters of the angles between mating surfaces in order to identify and plan the upcoming front of work.

Important. According to the regulatory documentation, the tolerance limit is 0.2% or two mm per square meter. The angles between adjacent walls, as well as between the floor and the wall, must be strictly 90 °.

Checking the geometric parameters can be carried out with the simplest device - wooden beam. To accurately detect deviations in the verticals, you can use an elementary plumb line made of a rope, the length of which is equal to the distance between the ceiling and the floor, with a load attached to the end. Horizontals can be checked using a homemade level gauge made from two disposable medical syringes with a scale connected by a plastic hose. This device will also be needed for labeling.

In the event of deviations exceeding allowable norms, it will be necessary to level the walls with plaster, as well as level the horizontal plane with a bulk polymer layer or a cement-sand mixture, depending on the degree of problems found. Often, alignment precedes the standard list of laying work. tiles. They should not be neglected, otherwise puddles will accumulate on the floor in the bathroom or in the kitchen, and collapsed segments on the walls will “strike” and require rework. This means that there will also be costs for the purchase of materials for alignment.

Next, a room plan is drawn and a finishing scheme is developed, including only laying tiles on the floor, complete floor and wall finishing, or fragmentary cladding of vertical sections around plumbing equipment, combined with the arrangement of floor tiles. The calculations necessary for the purchase of material should be slightly adjusted upwards, because fragile tiles can be damaged during the installation process. It is necessary to buy it immediately with a margin, since subsequently there may not be a similar material (the batch of goods in the store will end or the products with the same nomenclature will have a different shade).

Glue must be chosen taking into account the conditions in which the tile will subsequently work. For the bathroom and for the kitchen "apron" you will need compounds that do not react after solidification to excess moisture. It is immediately necessary to think about the grout, which is now on the market with different color options. Colored grout can radically change the composition. If there is no need for additional effects, you need to buy ordinary grouting material, in the amount indicated by the manufacturer.

Do not forget. To increase the adhesion performance, a primer is required, to correct small irregularities, putty. When pouring the screed, it will be necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing, which is placed in the form of a bowl with a wall approach of approximately 15 cm. If you plan to purchase roll material for waterproofing, you will also need adhesive tape for attaching joints. It will be necessary to take into account that polyethylene or foil water-repellent material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm. To align the verticals, you will also need to buy a special mesh that increases the strength of the plaster layer.

Please note. You will need tools:

• a construction mixer for mixing binders, leveling and priming compounds; instead, you can use an electric drill with a nozzle;
• notched trowel, the dimensions of the “comb” of which depend on the size of the tile (large teeth are needed for large tiles);
• a ten-centimeter spatula for the convenience of applying the composition to a notched fixture or trowel;
• tile cutter, instead of which you can use a glass cutter;
• a small grinder, if you have to cut a lot of tiles to finish a large area;
• "ballerina", equipped with a carbide tip, if the future stacker has to make round holes;
• rubber spatula for grouting.

by the most in a simple way for a novice master, there will be a “seam-to-seam” arrangement of tile elements, it is better to master more complex “run-up” patterns or laying in a diagonal direction, having already some experience. The presence of friezes, borders and other decorative elements must be determined at a preliminary stage and the right amount of shaped parts should also be purchased with a small margin.

Are you afraid to miss something when laying tiles yourself or do not have experience in this type of work? Use our guide and follow the recommendations in the material:.

Preparing surfaces for tiling

An impeccably prepared surface guarantees the strength of the tiled cladding and the superiority of its decorative qualities.

• All plumbing must be removed in order not to spoil.
• Then you will need to remove the old tile, while not forgetting to protect your eyes from dust with glasses, and your hands with gloves. Layer old paint can be removed with a perforator with a nozzle-shovel.
• Rapping all freed from old finish square. The delamination of the plaster and the presence of weak areas in the screed will be signaled by a dull sound, the identification of which means the need to clean up to brickwork or to concrete.

Alignment of vertical and horizontal planes is a separate type of construction and repair work, about which you should read the corresponding article. Suppose that the walls and floor are already impeccably smooth, it remains to rid them of construction dirt, grease, soap solutions, prime them, figure out how to lay the tiles, and begin responsible, painstaking work.

Note. The factory primer can be replaced by the remaining clean cement after leveling. It must be diluted to a consistency equivalent to the density of liquid sour cream, and “throw” on the surface with flip flops.

Walls in wooden house upholstered before laying tiles metal mesh, for the fastening of which wooden slats are installed. Layers of steam and waterproofing are laid between the walls of wood. Plaster is applied over the grid (with a layer of no more than 15 mm), which should not be overwritten to improve adhesion between it and the tile.

Important. Laying tiles on top of old tiles is not recommended. But this is possible if you need to complete the work in a shortened time. The installer will need to buy a special adhesive that can firmly bond the old cladding layer to the new decorative and protective surface.

Cutting - inevitable work when laying tiles

Without cutting, it is almost impossible to lay material elements with given geometric parameters. It is best to use a tile cutter for this, but in the absence of it, you can get by with a glass cutter. The process is simple:

• Marking is in progress, it is better to apply it with a felt-tip pen.
• An element with markings is placed on a table or a special frame.
• The planned cutting line is outlined by a hard-cutting roller.
• The cut parts are separated with a “foot” or wire cutters.

It is recommended not to make several passes with a cutting tool along one line in order to avoid getting a “torn” edge. It is advisable to stick a piece of adhesive tape on the area around the cut line to form a high-quality cut without serrating the enamel.

Useful advice. Before laying the floor tiles, you need to make a kind of “fitting” - lay out the material without gluing, taking into account the dimensions of the butt joints (2-4 mm). The tile should be positioned so that the cut segments are removed from the entrance and, if possible, hidden by household equipment or furniture. yu.

U-shaped and T-shaped sections of cutting are made with a grinder. To make rounded holes, use a ballerina attached to a drill. Cutting work must be treated with particular scrupulousness and attention, carefully calibrate the dimensions and markup. The slightest defect leads to damage to the material.

More advice. An inexperienced stacker will certainly not be able to cut perfectly. It is recommended to hide the edge under the shaped ceramic parts, under the tiles laid on the mating surface, or under the lining. If it is impossible to hide poorly cut parts, the cut can be trimmed with a file, sandpaper or a grinding stone.

Wall cladding with tiles

Experienced finishers who know how to lay tiles correctly advise novice performers to start with wall cladding, as tools that have fallen on the floor, tiles that have flown off, spilled solutions can ruin a brand new floor covering.

• The beginning of work is the installation of horizontal landmarks, which are lighthouse tiles, "planted" on alabaster. After laying a row, the reference tile is removed, cleaned of alabaster residues and installed on a cement or adhesive base. Lighthouses are located at a distance not exceeding 2 m.

Note. To define and designate horizontal line you can use the level and the rail, which will serve as a guide for the beginning of the first row. You can install plumb slats in the corners and stretch a cord between them.

• Laying tiles on the walls starts from the lowest row from the floor, continues up.
• The binder composition is applied to the back surface of the tile, after which the tile is pressed against the wall with force to fix it at the designated level. The solution released when pressed around the tile must be removed.

Attention. Don't skimp on binder. Voids under the tile will cause the tile to separate from the surface.

• To form the seams, spacers made of plastic are used. The seams do not have a decorative function, they are needed to prevent cracking of the tile and separation of elements during thermal expansion.
• Upon completion of the surface cladding is performed.

The quality of laying tiles must be constantly monitored, checking the horizontal and vertical surfaces being created.

The quality of laying tiles must be constantly monitored by checking the location of the tiles relative to each other along the transverse and longitudinal vectors

When facing a wall adjacent to a sloping floor, the first row of masonry should be made up of solid tiles. After finishing the entire surface, the cut segments of the lower row are laid.

When tiling rooms, cutting tiles is indispensable. Let's talk about how to do it with a grinder and a tile cutter in a special article:.

The technology of laying ceramic tiles on the floor

To implement laying tiles on a horizontal surface in the simplest direct way, you need to select the position of the first row. For laying the coating in a large room, it is recommended to start from the middle, it is better to start finishing a small area from the second row.

• By analogy with wall cladding, lighthouse tiles are installed. The presence of minor irregularities in draft floor eliminated by applying an increased amount of solution.
• The binder composition (glue or cement mortar) is applied to a small area of ​​approximately 70 x 70 cm, after which it is leveled with a notched trowel. To evenly distribute the adhesive, the spatula is held at an angle of approximately 60°.

Note. Laying floor tiles on a leveled surface can be done using bituminous mastic, simultaneously with gluing providing waterproofing.

Large tile elements are laid by applying a binder to the floor and tiles

• For elements with dimensions of 20 x 20 cm or more, the adhesive is applied to the subfloor and to the tiles. The tile with the solution applied to it is laid on the floor, then tapped with a rubber mallet.
• To maintain a clear size of the seams, distance crosses are inserted between the elements. The larger the size of the tile, the larger the size of the seam should be, but 4 mm is considered the limit.
• With the help of a wooden block, it is regularly necessary to control the horizontals and verticals. A bar checks two or three tiles in a longitudinal row, then it is installed on two or three elements from a transverse row.
• Upon completion of work, the remains of glue or cement composition from the surface must be removed, “pull out” the crosses from the seams, without waiting for hardening.
• Before grouting, a daily break is necessary.

Attention. No need to walk on freshly laid flooring.

Pay special attention to the corners of the floor tiles. If they protrude above the plane, they need to be besieged to a general level. If the protruding corner is a defect in this element, it is better to lower it slightly below the general level.

That's the whole simple technology of laying tiles, familiarization with which will surely convince an accurate performer of real opportunities to significantly save money without resorting to the services of installers. Patience, knowledge and diligence guarantee a long service life of an excellent wear-resistant floor.

Repair in the bathroom is rarely complete without replacing the tiles, especially if it has already served for 10-20 years. But, as usual, the question arises: hire a master or do everything yourself. If you have a proven, tried and tested tiler in mind and a certain amount (usually they ask for the same amount of work as the materials cost), you can hire. Otherwise, try laying the tiles yourself. If the walls are at least relatively even, everything should do without much difficulty. But just before laying the tiles on the wall, carefully study the technology.

To make it easy to lay tiles on the walls, it’s also tedious to choose the right one

It starts, as usual, with the choice of tiles. Just pay attention not only to her external data. You will definitely need to check its geometry, otherwise it will be difficult to work with it. If you are laying tiles for the first time, any curvature will greatly complicate the task. So let's check:

From experience it is worth saying that the ideal parameters are extremely difficult to find. If you like it externally, there are no cobwebs of cracks or glaze defects on the surface, the edges are even, the dimensions are the same, you can take it despite some non-linearity (first point). Otherwise, you'll be tired of running around the shops. What you should not do is to take a tile “to order”. How can you control its quality if you already pay for it. Take only what you hold in your hands.

What is the tile on?

Previously, tiles were laid on a cement-sand mixture, to which PVA glue or Bustilat was added. You can, of course, do this, but it will be more difficult to work. For more comfortable work, use ready-made compositions, they are also called “tile glue” for the fact that the composition contains adhesive components, therefore it is sometimes said that tiles are “glued” to the walls. Compositions are of two types:

• in buckets - mastics, ready for use;
• in bags - dry mixes that require dilution with water.

Professionals mainly use dry mixes. If necessary, they can correct an imperfect wall by making the layer a little thicker or thinner. Another plus: they retain plasticity longer, which allows you to make adjustments some more time later. They work with mastic on an ideal wall and there can be no deviations here: the layer is too thin.

In any building materials store, several types of tile adhesive will be offered.

When choosing a tile adhesive, you can choose it for specific tasks. So there are compositions in which there are additives that increase the water-repellent properties of a wall or floor. This is important in the kitchen and bathroom. There are frost-resistant, it will come in handy if you put it in an unheated room or on the street. You can find glue that has bactericidal properties: it will not allow fungi and mold to develop, which is in demand in wet rooms.

Preparatory work

Before laying the tiles on the wall, spend a number of preparatory activities. This is a long and unpleasant process, but it is highly undesirable to skip it: not every master, not to mention beginners, can normally lay tiles on uneven unprepared walls.

Leveling the surface

First of all, the old coating is removed from the walls and what can fall off. If there are greasy stains, they are removed, or they simply cut off part of the plaster along with the absorbed oil. The walls are tapped with a wooden mallet, determining by the sound whether there are voids. They occur if the plaster has peeled off, but has not yet blown out. If you stick a tile on such an area, everything will collapse under its weight. Therefore, you cover all such places yourself.

Before laying the tiles on the wall, they are leveled.

A flat bar is applied to the cleaned base and it is estimated how smooth or curved the walls are. If the surface of the wall is strongly convex or curved, it is better to correct everything with plaster to the level. Then laying tiles on the wall will be very simple. If the walls are relatively even, only too large indents are leveled: irregularities (protrusions or pits) that are more than 5 mm. The protrusions need to be cut off, the pits should be filled with a plaster mixture, the cracks should be widened, moistened and also covered with plaster.

We prime

It is desirable to treat the prepared wall with a primer. Best suited for these purposes is "Betonokontakt" or another composition with similar characteristics. It penetrates to a sufficiently large thickness deep into the wall, binding all the particles. After drying, the surface becomes rough, tile adhesive is very well “molded” to it.

The primer is applied with a wide fly brush

How to start

There are several possible starting points. If it’s quite simple, you can lay out the first row immediately from the corner, I’m guided along the floor line. But the first row will become even and without problems only if the floor is perfectly flat, without any deviations. Otherwise, you will cut the tiles to somehow get vertical seams. As a result of these trimmings, the second and all subsequent rows can “walk”. The work will be very hard and unpleasant. Therefore, it is better to spend time and mark the wall by finding the "start" points.

Wall marking

Options for laying tiles on the wall

If you don't really care about the small pieces of tiles that you have to put in the corners and at the top, under the ceiling, you can skip this step. But if you want the whole tile to lie symmetrically, before laying the tiles on the wall, you will have to do the layout:

If it turned out that only narrow strips remain at both ends, it is advisable to redo the layout. If the middle was located in the center of the wall, try to expand from the seam, and vice versa. Should come out better.

With the placement of tiles in height, the situation is slightly different. In some cases, the seam is made at a certain level. In a bathroom, this is often the edge of an installed bathtub. If there are no such requirements, you can do the same: find the center, position (draw on the wall) the position of the tiles relative to it. Thus, you will find how you will need to cut the tiles of the upper and lower rows.

When laying, constantly check the flatness

Vertically, you can arrange in another way: mark the first tile from the ceiling, and so on to the bottom. In this case, only the bottom row will have to be cut. This is not entirely correct, but the consumption of tiles is slightly less.

In any case, when calculating how to lay the tiles on the wall, mark the level where the first row ends. It usually serves as a starting point. This is where the tiling begins.

start line

According to the results of the layout, you have a line where the first row ends. Here at this height they nail a flat bar. Leaning a tile on it, they put up the starting row, and all subsequent ones on it. The first row is installed last, in which the tile will have to be cut.

If there is a laser plane builder, it is much easier to work

Profiles for working with drywall are usually used as a support bar, but a flat dry bar can also be used. At a given height, it is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowels (depending on the wall material). In order for laying tiles on the wall with your own hands without problems, you need to fasten it often enough: so that there is no sagging. Be sure to check the horizontal position of its installation. Even the slightest deviation should not be.

How to tile on a wall

The technology of laying tiles on the wall is simple. It consists of several simple steps:

How to put crosses

A few points about the whole process. First, in the marked places on the installed bar, the extreme whole tiles (those that do not need to be cut) are glued. When laying out, you marked their position. It is very important to set them correctly. To do this, each is checked by a level in the vertical and horizontal planes. If the tile geometry is perfect, you can also check the verticality / horizontality at the edges. Then they take a long level or an even bar with a shorter level and check how evenly one beacon bar is set relative to the other. They must be in the same plane. Then, with the help of this bar, they control whether each next tile is correctly set.

Description is one thing, but seeing everything with your own eyes is another. The video demonstrates the technology, after watching, you will understand exactly how to lay tiles on the wall.

The thickness of the adhesive on the wall

For those who are laying tiles on a wall for the first time, there may be questions about how thick a layer of glue is needed. This value depends on how smooth the walls are. If they are perfect, you can apply the minimum layer allowed in the instructions for the composition. If the walls are only relatively even, the "starting" layer can be 3-4 mm. Further, as necessary, it can slightly decrease or increase, correcting the unevenness of the wall.

There are several techniques for laying ceramic tiles. Not always glue is applied to both the tile and the wall. Some masters apply the composition only to the wall, others only to the tile, someone recommends dipping it in water before applying the glue, others do not. Choose the option that seems more correct to you. But it is more convenient for beginner tilers when the solution is both on the wall and on the tile: it is easier to move and level it.

Manufacturers of tile adhesive advise applying it to the wall, removing excess with a notched trowel, but this means a perfectly even base. Based on these recommendations, the cost of laying one square is calculated.

Glue consumption depending on the size of the tile

With another technique, the consumption increases by 50% or even 100%, since the wall has to be adjusted. But it is definitely worth listening to the prescribed dimensions of the spatula teeth.

How to cut tiles

There are several ways. For small volumes and not very thick tiles, a manual tile cutter is suitable. This is a device consisting of a platform on which tiles are laid. Overlays are attached to the platform, along which the cutter moves. The cutting torch moves with the help of the handle, ripping up a strong covering. On the same handle, a stop is usually installed, with which the tile is broken along the line drawn by the cutter.

Another way is with a grinder, but it is very noisy and dusty. In addition, it will not work to make a perfectly even cut, but it will go in an emergency.

If necessary, round holes are cut out using a crown of a suitable diameter, which is put on a drill. During drilling, so that there is as little dust as possible, the place of work is constantly watered. The result is a perfect hole, everything looks decent.

Finished round holes in ceramic tiles

If you need to cut a strip that is too thin, you won’t be able to do it on a tile cutter: it simply won’t break off. Then, after drawing a line with a cutting disc or rod (for some firms, the cutting element is made in the form of a rod), the thin edge is broken off. In general, there are special tongs for this, but it works well with pliers.

Tongs for tiles

If at the same time the edge turns out to be very uneven, it can be leveled a little with a file or sandpaper fixed on a bar.

Corner decoration

If the tile is laid flat, internal corners does not raise questions. Difficulties may arise only with the installation of crosses. Just turn them so that they do not interfere or break off the protruding parts. In general, they are joined neatly in the corners, and the seam is finally formed using grout.

There are also profiles for internal corners. They are selected to match the grout, installed in a corner, leveled, and then attached to self-tapping screws or dowels. When laying tiles in a corner, tiles are supported on them. It turns out a finished corner seam.

Profile design of the inner corner

Outer corners are more difficult. If you just join the tiles by overlapping the edges, it turns out ugly. To properly form the outer corner, you have to cut the edge at 45 °.

How to make an outer corner when laying tiles

This can be done on a professional tile cutter. But not everyone has such equipment. Then you will have to work as a grinder. The first cut, approximately at the desired angle, is made smooth diamond disc. It should not have slots and holes, the spraying should also be even.

These are discs for a grinder: for cutting and grinding

It turns out not very smoothly, and the outer edge has a rather large thickness. But this is only preliminary processing. We cut the cut to the desired parameters with a grinding nozzle with the same disk. See the video for more details.

If you don’t want to mess around with such a pruning, there is another possibility - to decorate the corner with a special plastic corner.

Another way to decorate the outer corner

Another video on how you can arrange adjunctions and seams when laying tiles.

To make laying wall tiles with your own hands completely clear, watch another video tutorial.

When finishing a kitchen apron with ceramic tiles, the technology is practically no different from that described above. There is simply no need to calculate the number of vertical rows. The place of "start" is determined by the height of the countertop: it should start 5-10 cm above the edge of the tile. Fasten the bar at the required level, align it exactly to the horizon, and you can start.

An example of a tiled backsplash on a work wall in a kitchen

An apron in the kitchen is usually made on a work wall. If this is not one wall, but two or three, you can start from one of the corners.

How to tile an apron in the kitchen

If the apron is laid out from a small tile, the undercuts may not be very conspicuous. If you want everything to be symmetrical, repeat the layout and start from the center, as described above.

There is no need to turn to the services of expensive masters for laying tiles. With the right approach and preparation, cladding costs can be minimized. Given the average cost of laying tiles, the savings can be substantial. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the rules if it is planned to lay tiles with your own hands, in order for the result to be the most attractive, functional and durable. So, laying tiles involves the following steps:

1. surface preparation (screed formation, wall plastering);
2. marking the location of the first row and installing support stops;
3. laying the first row or several multidirectional rows according to the markup;
4. filling the entire area with solid tiles;
5. cutting and laying tiles to fill the remaining areas;
6. grouting (jointing).

Tiling tools

The tool required for surface preparation is selected depending on the required operations and work execution technologies. Directly for installation you will need the following:

• trowel, trowel, notched trowel, rubber spatula, small level (30-40 cm), medium level (60-80 cm), plumb line, rubber mallet, mortar container. In places where the whole tile does not fit, you will need to cut and cut it, for this you will need: a tile cutter (mechanical or electric), pliers or wire cutters, a large needle file or sandpaper, a grinder.

Calculate the amount of materials!

In order to correctly estimate the required number of tiles, one should not only measure the square of the surface for cladding, but also estimate the number of tiles to be cut into pieces. It all depends on the complexity of the walls and floor and the presence of all kinds of obstacles in the form of pipes, corners, protrusions in the wall, etc. Approximately, on top of the calculated number of square meters, take more tiles sufficient for laying two rows along two adjacent walls.

For gluing tiles, it is best to use specialized adhesives. This is especially true for bathroom and kitchen cladding, where moisture-resistant compounds are required. Moreover, when proper preparation surface, the consumption of mortar is minimal, and the cost of laying is significantly reduced.

Learn more about calculating materials for tile works.

Step 1. Surface preparation

In order for the tiled surface to be perfectly flat and durable, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface. In no case should you rely on the fact that small irregularities in the floor or wall can be closed by using more mortar under the tile. Qualitative result can only be achieved when the entire material is placed on a uniformly small layer of adhesive.

Before laying tiles on the floor, a screed must be formed. In the bathroom and toilet, a waterproofing layer is necessarily formed. The screed can be produced by the wet method, adhering to the appropriate technologies. It is best to lay tiles on concrete base, that is, on a wet screed. If the old coating is being replaced, then it is, and the surface is leveled with cement mortar.

In order to tile the walls with tiles, it is necessary to get rid of all the old coating and plaster the walls with the obligatory reinforcement with construction mesh. It's best to do this. It is not worth using putty, as well as achieving a perfectly smooth surface, this can impair the adhesion of the adhesive.

All skirting boards, trims on the doorway and sills are dismantled. The prepared surface must be cleaned of dust, dirt and primed.

In case you are confident in the reliability of the old tile layer or just want to save time, check out. But in any case, this practice is only suitable for notorious lazy people.

Step 2. Layout and installation of supports

options for non-standard laying of floor coverings

Before laying, it is necessary to prepare the markings and stops for the first row, along which the tiles will be installed.

Walls

Attached at the bottom plastic corner or wooden lath, on which the first row will be based. Using a plumb line, a line is drawn to control the verticality of the installation. In the case of using multi-colored tiles or various types mosaic laying, it is best to mark with marks the places of laying other than the mass of tiles.

Floor

The line of the spaced edge of the tiles of the first row is drawn. The locations of the tiles are marked, which will differ from the main mass when the pattern is formed. Laying floor tiles starts from the far corner. In this case, if necessary, shift the location of the first tile so that a solid fragment is laid at the entrance without the need to trim it. The calculations take into account the size of not only the tiles, but also the gap between them.

Step 3. Laying solid tiles

traditional tiling schemes

Having prepared the markup and landmarks, you can start laying. To do this, the tile adhesive solution is applied to the wall with a notched trowel as thick as the depth of the teeth. The tile leans first on the support or on the crosses below, after which you need to carefully place the tile with your own hands on the mortar. It is not necessary to press it. Slightly turning the tile along the axis with light movements achieves maximum adhesion of the product with the mortar.

Remember that it will be problematic to remove the tile from the surface after laying it on the mortar, so you should immediately place it as correctly as possible. You can only slightly move it to the side. Check the correctness of the installation using a level in all directions and in relation to the already laid rows. If it is necessary to deepen the tile somewhat, a rubber mallet is used. Crosses are located in the corners to maintain gaps. After that, you can proceed to further installation.

It is impossible to press the tile strongly so that the solution protrudes along the edges. All gaps between them should be as clean as possible. In the future, grout will be used, which will prevent moisture and dirt from getting under the tile and give an aesthetic appearance to the entire surface.

When the hand is already full, you can apply the mortar, taking into account the laying of several tiles at a time. In this case, after the distribution of the solution, the tile is installed in its place and sits on the solution with small circular movements. After that, the crosses are quickly distributed into the gaps and, using the level, the entire stacked row is pressed in various directions, adjusting it to the general level.

After completing the filling of the first row, it is best to wait until the glue under it seizes normally. After that, it will be much easier to lay subsequent tiles on the wall. It is important to remember that if, after laying the next row, it is decided to take a break in work, then all the mortar that is not under the tile, but along the edges, must be removed. If this is not done, and it dries up, then before continuing the work, the frozen solution will have to be chipped off, which will affect the strength of the connection of the already laid tiles. Also, all excess mortar is removed in places that are left for laying cut tiles.

Step 4. Filling in the Remaining Areas

Having laid out the entire space where solid tiles are used, you can start cutting the missing pieces and installing them. you can also use a glass cutter, but it is better to use a manual, machine or electric tile cutter, in extreme cases, a grinder is also suitable. The latter option will have a lot of dust, so pruning is best done outdoors. The marking of the tiles is made taking into account the gaps on all sides.

In order to form an uneven cut, either a manual tile cutter-nippers or an electric machine with a diamond wheel are used. More details on how to do this are written below.

Step 5. Grout (jointing)

After fully laying the tiles on the wall or floor, you should wait for the adhesive solution to dry. After that, all the crosses between the tiles are removed, and the seams are jointed. To do this, you can use cement-based grout, silicone or epoxy. It is first of all necessary to select a suitable grout according to the color design of the selected coating itself. In terms of characteristics, they differ little from each other, except for the method of preparation and use. Cementitious grout is distributed dry and must be diluted with water immediately before use. Silicone and epoxy grouts are sold ready-to-use in sealed packages.

Before jointing, it is necessary to completely clean the surface of the tiles and the seams between them. It is better to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose. After that, if silicone or epoxy grout is used, the edges of the tile are additionally glued with masking tape. If this is not done, then the dried mixture will be difficult to clean off the glazed surface of the tile.

Next, using a rubber spatula, a small amount of grout is applied over the seam and pressed inward. Putting a rubber spatula across the seam, and swiping it with pressure, the excess is removed. In this case, the seam deepens a little and is compared.

Remove masking tape and grout residues after it has completely dried. Having cleaned and washed the entire tiled surface, the work can be considered completed.

Note: ceramic tiles are laid in a similar way. Differences partly relate only to the nuances in the ways of cutting tiles.

A bit about cutting tiles

Virtually no tiling job is complete without the need for trimming. This can be done in a variety of ways: from a glass cutter to modern machines with a diamond cutting wheel. If a mechanical hand tool, the process is similar to cutting glass. In this case, the cutting wheel draws a line along the markings on the glazed side of the tile. After that, demolition is performed. Floor tiles are more massive and cannot be cut beautifully with a glass cutter. For all types of tile cutters, the cutting wheel has a significantly larger diameter of 1.6 cm to form a deeper cut.

For example, consider the option of cutting using a mechanical machine tile cutter:

1. Such a tile cutter has a platform for placing tiles with limiters, on which the markings of the ruler are applied. This facilitates the process of cutting a whole row of tiles of the same size. We adjust the limiters to the required distance so that the intended cut line falls on the line in the middle of the tool.
2. In the upper part of the tool, a carriage runs along two guides, equipped with a cutting wheel and a folding stop, in which the petals are located at an angle to each other, as well as a lever. We take the carriage to the edge farthest from us. A wheel is attached to the edge of the tile and with pressure is drawn along its surface along the cut line.
3. After that, the emphasis on the carriage is located in the middle of the cut and the tile is made with light pressure.

The difficult moment is not a straight cut and not diagonally, but figured cutouts with a semicircular shape or several bends for the output of wires, bypassing sockets or the exit of water pipes. In this case, a cutout shape is outlined on the glazed side, and the line is carefully drawn with a cutting wheel of a manual tile cutter. After that, you can bite off the unnecessary part of the tile in pieces until only the part that is necessary in shape remains. The resulting edge will turn out to be quite uneven; a file or sandpaper is used to solve this problem.

When using an electric machine, the entire part that should be removed on the tile before marking is cut into thin strips and bit off, the edge is also compared with a file.

• It is good if a tile fits along the length of the row without the need for trimming the extreme one. If this is not the case, then the laying row should be shifted so that the last tile is intact. If at the same time the remaining gap requires a fragment of 1-2 cm, the row is still shifted in order to put wider pieces along the two edges. This will eliminate the need for time-consuming cutting of narrow strips of tile.
• The same applies to marking the position of the rows in height, especially when laying is not done under the ceiling, but up to a certain level, for example, tiles are often laid in the kitchen. It is worth distributing the rows in such a way that the first lower row is formed from pieces, and the upper one from solid tiles. It is better to start laying with whole tiles, while raising the initial support bar to the required level.
• Laying tiles in the corridor is best, starting from filling the space along long walls, leaving a gap of one tile in the middle or from one of the edges. At the same time, it is imperative to apply marking lines in order not to go astray and not to make the remaining opening narrower than the tile.
• If used various options laying in the form of a figured construction or using tiles of different colors, it is necessary to indicate in advance the locations of tiles that are different in shape, direction or design. It is often used to divide individual tiles diagonally to form a pattern using the distribution of joints. In this case, it is better to leave the places with the installation of cut tiles to be filled last.
• Be sure to read the instructions for the tile adhesive used. Some options involve wetting the surface of the tile before installing it on a layer of adhesive applied to the wall.

Video: laying tiles on the floor

Video: laying tiles on the wall

What mistakes are made when laying

The wrong tile

Going to purchase tiles, people are more often guided by two factors that affect the final choice - design and pricing. But having decided on the purchase, they do not check the tiles for identity. This gross mistake, which can result in uneven joints between tiles, tiles of different sizes and shades. Before buying, you need to check the dimensions of the tiles. It is better to take several tiles of the same batch from different boxes and compare them with each other. The ceramic material must be the same along the perimeter, the height of the product.

Purchase of glazed ceramics

The bathroom is a place where there should be increased security. Leaving after a shower, a person should not slide on the floor, as on an ice rink. Because glazed tiles are not suitable, it is worth buying non-glazed material. Safety must be paramount, because a fall on a ceramic floor can result in serious injury to a person.

Choosing the wrong tile mix

Laying tiles on the bathroom floor requires the correct selection of mixtures for fixing the tiles. With the current choice of material, the need for cement mortar for laying is gone, manufacturers offer good mixes which will facilitate the process of laying tiles on the floor. For the bathroom and toilet, they buy a primer, glue and grout exclusively for floor coverings. The base of the bathroom and toilet is constantly subjected to heavy loads, therefore it is necessary to lay the tiles on an adhesive of increased fixation.

Particular attention is paid to the preparation of the mixture. Do not deviate from the instructions on the packaging of the mixture, the proportions must be strictly observed when preparing the adhesive emulsion

To do this, you need to carefully study all the recommendations of manufacturers. The glue should be homogeneous, without lumps.

Poorly prepared base.

How to lay tiles if the original base is uneven? Many try to solve the problem with a large amount of glue. This is a fatal mistake that guarantees a curved floor with height differences. The fact is that leveling the surface by laying tiles with a large amount of glue will entail landslides of the adhesive base and the likelihood that the tile will simply “float” reaches almost 100%.

Therefore, before laying, attention must be paid to leveling the surface. Correctly laying tiles on the floor in the bathroom is possible only on a well-prepared plane

Measurement error made

Trying to lay tiles without careful measurements is to find all the work to fail. Without a corner, rubber mallet and water, but better laser level laying a flat tiled floor is impossible.

The laid row of tiles must be checked with a level, the defects are leveled with a rubber mallet. Why a rubber mallet and not an ordinary one? The ceramic coating can simply burst or chip when using an ordinary hammer, so a rubber hammer should always be at hand.

Leveling tiles with a rubber mallet

Bathroom tile basics

In order for the tiles to last as long as possible, it is necessary to follow a certain order of laying tiles in the bathroom. Laying tiles on the floor is easier. Therefore, if there is little experience, then it is better to start with the floor.

If laying is planned parallel to the walls, then it is better to start from a visible angle for more decorative qualities of the finished surface. Diagonal laying is usually done from the middle of the room

Particular attention should be paid to tile joints, since the decorative properties of the surface depend on their size.

Adjustment of the sizes of seams is carried out by means of plastic crosses. It is necessary to ensure that air does not form under the tile, which can lead to the destruction of the material. Be sure to check the level. Trimming tiles is done using a tile cutter or grinder.

Consider the sequence of laying tiles in the bathroom on the walls. Here the situation is more complicated, since you have to work on a vertical surface. In this case, there are also certain rules for laying tiles in the bathroom.

First, you need to start laying from a visible angle. Secondly, laying is carried out from a profile nailed to the wall and aligned horizontally. It is fastened at such a height from the floor that only whole tiles are laid under the ceiling.

After the glue dries, the bottom row is reported. To apply glue here, you can use a notched trowel that will allow you to adjust the layer. Too much adhesive can cause tiles to slip or fall off.

Sometimes you have to make slopes of tiles in the bathroom, for example, for niches for sewer pipes. In this case, you should come up with spacers, since when gluing tiles on the upper slope, it may fall off. To decorate the joints, external and internal corners for tiles in the bathroom are used.

The final step is grouting the joints with a mixture of the appropriate color. The excess mixture is removed with a sponge, and then the entire tile is wiped clean.

Thus, it is clear that the technology of laying tiles in the bathroom is quite complicated. But with a certain amount of diligence, it is quite feasible on our own

It is very important to strictly follow the laying rules and use only high-quality building materials.

Additional Information:

Reasons for the deformation of the tiles in the bathroom on the walls and floor

Bringing tile joints in order when laying tiles on the floor

How to clad aerated concrete with clinker tiles

How to choose the optimal layout

Before choosing a tile, it is worth drawing a sketch by hand to determine the type of cladding. To do this, you need to draw a detailed plan of the room with all sizes and furnishings:

• carefully measure the floor and walls, openings, indicate the parameters on paper;
• draw up a drawing of the bathroom and be sure to display the location of the doorway, window (if any), all niches and ledges;
• indicate the location of plumbing fixtures, sockets, switches, pipeline outlets.

Now that the plan is ready, you can choose the optimal layout scheme using colored pencil sketches. Such a sketch will help determine the best location of decorative elements, places for cutting tiles, problem areas. Be sure to take into account the degree of complexity of the work, if you plan to do the cladding yourself.

Diagonal way

The most complex and laborious.

This method has a number of advantages:

• visually expands the area;
• if mistakes are made in the layout and the walls are non-perpendicular or non-parallel, it hides this drawback;
• gives a beautiful and original drawing.

And also cons:

• even slight deviations in the size of the tiles are not allowed;
• more waste.

With the "diagonal" method, the first row begins to be laid from the cut tiles diagonally, which increases the percentage of waste.

The tile joints are located perpendicular to each other and at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls. Checking the accuracy of laying tiles in the bathroom is carried out with a level and a square.

The following options for laying tiles in the bathroom are a two-color combination of already known methods.

Ways of laying ceramic tiles advantages and disadvantages

Laying tiles in the bathroom is carried out according to various schemes, each of which can emphasize the advantages of ceramic coating and allow you to use the geometry of the room with maximum benefit. Below are the most popular styling models with an assessment of their practicality.

direct method

The most simple to implement and cost-effective. Tiles are laid in even stripes parallel to the plane of the floor and walls. Suitable for both square and rectangular tiles. The second option, depending on the location, can contribute to a visual increase in space.

This order of laying tiles in the bathroom is often used among beginners in this field.

Off the beaten track

Such a laying scheme is similar to the installation of brickwork, when the tiles are laid in a checkerboard pattern with a shift of subsequent rows relative to the previous ones by 1/2 of the length. This option looks especially advantageous when laying tiles in the shape of a rectangle, the sides of which are in a ratio of 2 to 1. The advantages are similar to the direct layout method, with the difference that there will be more waste.

Laying apart is ideal for rectangular tiles, called "boar", as the result is a surface that mimics real brickwork.

Diagonally

This laying method is characterized by the arrangement of fragments at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the line of junction of the floor and walls. This technique looks very impressive, especially on large-scale surfaces, but is more difficult to work with. An expanded panorama with lines crossing diagonally appears before your eyes. For a limited space, this method is not suitable, as it will optically reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Among the shortcomings, one can note the increased complexity of the work and the significant labor costs associated with the need to trim the tiles. Diagonal laying is associated with a large level of waste, and therefore is quite expensive.

The performance of work on diagonal laying will require a sufficient level of skill from the worker. For beginner finishers, such a scheme may be too complicated.

Modular

The modular scheme was invented to create an unusual styling. Drawings that are original and modern design, can be obtained through the use of tiles different sizes, but with multiple faces. The main difficulty lies in the correct calculation required amount finishing material. To this end, a schematic layout plan is created to scale. Be sure to take into account the level of thickness of the seams.

The modular scheme is in many ways similar to the stacking method, but the calculations for its creation must be as accurate as possible.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom

To properly lay the tile, you will need to follow a number of recommendations:

1. It is necessary to start laying tiles on the wall from the second row, the countdown is from the floor. First row of tiles initial stage remains empty, during installation it is worth focusing on the markup.
2. The adhesive is applied to the base, not to the tiles. For convenience, use a notched trowel, it will create the desired texture.
3. Do not press too hard on the tile during installation, if you overdo it, the ceramics may not withstand and crack or break.
4. Excess glue is removed with a foam sponge.
5. To ensure that the seams between the tiles in the bathroom are the same in width, use special crosses. The optimal width is a few millimeters.
6. Check each new row for horizontality. Even the slightest deviation later can lead to masonry distortions. This can happen due to slightly different sizes of tiles, which periodically happens with domestic ceramics.
7. When facing corners and ledges in the bathroom, you will need to cut the tiles using a grinder or tile cutter.
8. If you need to make notches, you can simply gently break them out with pliers until you get a hole of the required size.

You can see in more detail how to lay tiles on the walls of the bathroom with your own hands on the instructional video.

Seam processing

Having figured out how to properly lay the tiles in the bathroom, you can proceed to consider the next most important step - grouting the tile joints. How to process ceramic products yourself? You need to start the grouting process one day after laying the last tile.

With a sponge, the remaining glue is removed from the tile. The grout solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions. Apply it inside the seams rubber spatula. The tile mortar hardens within half an hour. Then it is wiped with a damp sponge.

Processing seams on tiles

In order to avoid the formation of mold and fungus in the future, the finished seams are treated with a special mixture. Wide seams are rubbed with a mixture of sand, to which it is recommended to add latex. Latex will protect the seams from cracking, eliminating the need to replace the tile. It also performs a decorative function in the bathroom, the design of which will become unique.

The use of latex does not require dilution of the dry mixture with water. It is enough to mix them and leave for a while. The finished grout is applied with a brush or cloth. After drying, the seams are washed again with a dampened sponge.

Wall preparation

The preparation of the walls comes down to their plastering and leveling. The tile must be laid absolutely flush with the wall. If the seams between the bricks are deep, they are sealed with mortar. First you need to decide on the verticality of the walls. If the wall has a deviation from the vertical of more than four centimeters, it does not make sense to level it with plaster. Such walls are sheathed with plasterboard sheets.

Plaster leveling

First you need to remove the plaster that has lagged behind the wall and plaster all the cracks. The only tool that can do this job, even out all the flaws, is a rule that is at least two meters long. It is the rule that all excess solution is cut off. If there is no rule, then you can use a flat metal corner or a square pipe of a suitable length instead. The applied solution must be removed as a rule without sparing.

Proper preparation of the base

The success of the event depends not only on the quality of the purchased materials, but also on how thoroughly the preparatory work. Laying should be carried out on the wall, cleaned of the old coating. Walls and floors must have a perfectly clean and even surface. Otherwise, the tile will eventually swell, crack, and then completely fall off.

The old tile is beaten off with a chisel and a hammer. You can use a puncher, but it makes a lot of noise. The paint is peeled off with a spatula or drill.

The floor is leveled in two ways:

• concrete mixture;
• leveling compound.

Leveling the floor under the tiles in the bathroom

The latter option is more expensive, easier to perform and allows you to get a perfectly flat surface.

If there are significant irregularities on the walls, they are eliminated with a concrete mixture or putty. However, it is easier to close them with moisture-resistant drywall

When using it, you will have to pay special attention to sealing the seams. To prevent moisture from penetrating inside, they are additionally varnished

The primer helps to increase the moisture-resistant qualities of the material and increase adhesion. She is recommended to cover not only drywall, but also a concrete or brick base.

Docking materials

Technological docking of laminate and ceramics can be carried out using the following products:

• use of flexible PVC profile allows you to connect curvilinear bends;
• a flexible metal profile is used to connect curved zones and straight seams;
• an aluminum threshold is used to process the mating surfaces under the door leaf;
• the use of a box threshold increases sound insulation and seals the joints;
• with the help of a transitional PVC profile, coatings with a large height difference are finished;
• when using a cork compensator, an even mating surface is obtained between the laminate and the tile;
• using a T-shaped profile from the array, straight seams are made.

T-profile

Layout types

There are many types of tiling on the floor and walls of the bathroom, from the simplest to the incredibly complex. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages. Consider the most popular types of tile layout.

Straight

The easiest and most popular option for laying tiles in the bathroom. The tile is located strictly parallel to the floor and walls, row by row. For a similar layout, a simple rectangular or square shape is suitable.

Off the beaten track

Otherwise, a similar design is called brick or masonry. In order for such a decor to look harmonious, it is worth choosing the right proportions of the tile. Perfect option the ratio of width to length is 1 to 2. How beautifully you can lay out tiles in the bathroom, imitating brickwork shown in the photo below.

Diagonal

One of the most difficult ways to lay tiles in the bathroom, requiring experience. When choosing such a masonry, it must be borne in mind that due to the constant cutting of the tile, the material consumption will be much higher compared to other options. However, the effort and money expended will justify itself, since the diagonal laying of tiles is also one of the most spectacular.

Despite the showiness, the diagonal design is not suitable for every bathroom. If the area is small, it is better to use more simple options, since the diagonal will only make visible all the imperfections of the room. It is better to choose a similar layout for a spacious room, however, it is worth monitoring the curvature of the walls - they should be perfectly even without deviations from the perpendicular axis. How to use diagonal tiles in bathroom design can be seen in the photo.

Modular

An effective choice for bathroom design. In this case, tiles of different sizes are used, it can be laid out in any combination, which gives room for imagination. There are a lot of options for combining different tiles in the bathroom, the most interesting can be found in the photo.

Horizontal

Clear lines can significantly change the proportions of a room. The horizontal layout of the tile is most often a dark bottom combined with a light top. There may also be an option with several horizontal stripes different colors. With this design, a monophonic tile is most often used.

If you have chosen a finish with patterns, it is better to separate the parts of the masonry with a plain border. To make the design more harmonious, the border is used not only at the bottom of the walls, but also under the ceiling. How the horizontal tile layout in the bathroom will look like can be seen in the photo below.

vertical

At vertical version tile layouts in the bathroom clearly stand out brighter stripes on a plain background. The width of the stripes can be different, the same or alternate. However, it should be borne in mind that too frequent a strip looks too bright and is not suitable for decorating all bathroom walls. In this way, it is better to select only one wall, a separate section or a niche.

Vertical stripes visually stretch the room up, at the same time slightly narrowing it. It looks good on longitudinal long walls, but not on the ends in narrow rooms. With the help of stripes, you can highlight different areas of the bathroom, if it is combined with a toilet, as well as the most significant design elements.

Mosaic layout

The combination of ordinary tiles and mosaics in the bathroom looks very impressive. A real mosaic is more difficult to assemble, since hundreds of small elements are required to be laid out exactly according to the scheme, never making a mistake.

However, there are simpler options - ready-made mosaics on a grid or imitation. Mosaics can be used in many ways:

1. Wall decor. A mosaic pattern can be made in one color or be with a full pattern. The choice of ornaments, colors or plot of images depends on the style of the interior and the personal wishes of the household.
2. Flooring. If the bathroom is small, colorful mosaics on the walls may look too bright, but similar decor on the floor will look good even in a small area.
3. Space zoning. With the help of mosaics, you can divide the bathroom into zones. This finish is especially popular in the shower area or on the wall along the bath.
4. To attract attention. Mosaic can highlight specific details, such as a sink or hooks for bath towels.
5. Decoration. Mosaic does not have to occupy the entire bathroom, it can be a border, individual stripes or patterns.
6. Hard-to-reach places. The tiny details of the mosaic allow it to be used to finish the most complex surfaces.

How beautiful to combine tiles with mosaics in the bathroom can be seen in the photo.

Tile grouting and processing

Grouting tiles is performed after the entire room is lined with this material. If during the laying of the tiles on the walls gaps were left for subsequent grouting, then grouting without sand in the composition will be required. Grouts with sand are used for floor tiles, which are also laid at wide intervals. To boost beneficial features grout, some craftsmen add latex to it, the solution of which is sold in specialized stores. You should not try to save on this solution, since its useful properties are noticeably reduced along with a decrease in its concentration. The latex solution increases the elasticity of the grout and the quality of its adhesion.

We rub the seams in the bathroom

Do-it-yourself bathroom tiling

It is convenient to distribute the solution over the surface using a rubber trowel, which must be carefully driven diagonally across the laid tile, holding it slightly at an angle. Proper grouting allows you to fill every single seam with grout, but it is better to check this after the process is completed.

It is recommended to start grouting from the wall near which the bath is located, and when it is finished, it will be possible to clean the place from which the repair was started. After grouting, ceramic tiles are treated with a sealant to protect against harmful effects, which is applied using a paint roller, but if only seams are processed, then an ordinary brush can also be used. In order for the tile to serve as long as possible, it is treated with sealant at least once a year.

A little about the choice of material

As we have already said, ceramic tile for the bathroom - this is the most popular type of finishing material. Certain requirements are imposed on this room, respectively, and the materials for its decoration should be chosen correctly, namely, taking into account their technical characteristics:

• minimal moisture absorption;
• increased resistance to cleaning chemicals;
• resistance to mechanical stress;
• resistance to high temperatures and a couple;
• bathroom floor tiles must be resistant to abrasion; resist bending and abrasive agents.

When choosing a material, one should proceed from the quality of ceramics. Tiles that meet European standards can be of three varieties, each of which is marked with a specific color. The first grade is a tile with a red marking, which is of high quality and durability. The second grade is a material that can have a marriage of about 5%, this series is marked with blue or light blue markings. The lowest grade is marked in green.

Ceramic tiles are distinguished by a resistance class, of which there are five, they are marked with Roman numerals. In a residential area, it is advisable to use a material not higher than the III class of wear resistance, and for the bathroom, the first class is enough. Since laying out tiles in the bathroom is not easy, you should correctly calculate its amount - ideally, you should take the material with a margin of about 15% to allow for fit. Well, the design of the material plays an important role in the choice - after all, everyone wants the bathroom to be not only functional and comfortable, but also beautiful. And the variety of tiles is a guarantee that you can easily find your own way of finishing.

Where to start

The first thing you need to think about is not how to arrange the tile decor in the bathroom, first you need a room plan with the location of the main interior details - plumbing and furniture

What you need to pay attention to when creating a diagram:

1. Thinking over the drawing, observe all the proportions and scales of the bathroom, but do not make the drawing too small. The scheme should be large enough to place all the elements on it and clearly indicate the dimensions.
2. For the correct layout of the tiles in the bathroom, you need to know the exact dimensions, so measure all the walls of the room, taking into account doorway, ledges and niches. Sign the obtained values ​​​​on the diagram.
3. Mark the location of plumbing and furniture on the drawing.
4. Be sure to indicate the location of the ventilation shaft, sockets, switches, etc.
5. Interior details that are mounted on top of the finish are not required to be indicated on the diagram - they do not affect the layout in any way.
6. Make a control check - compare the real bathroom with the resulting scheme, make sure everything is correct.

This is what a bathroom should look like with the correct tile layout

An accurate diagram is needed in order to correctly calculate the amount of material, the dimensions of the tile and the ornament itself. If you make even a small miscalculation, it may turn out that the most beautiful elements of the layout will be behind the plumbing or in the corners, otherwise the effect that was conceived from such a decor will be completely lost. Design examples that can be found for laying tiles in the bathroom are shown in the photo below.

Bathroom tile layout sketch

The tiling process

Having carefully considered the various options for finishing bathroom tiles, let's move on to studying the laying process itself using the example of flooring in the bathroom.

To do this, imagine that the tile has already been selected, all materials have been purchased, and the necessary measurements have been made.

1. We clean the surface: we remove the old coating from the floors: linoleum, parquet, tiles along with glue or mortar. Having tapped the surface and heard a dull sound, we also remove the old screed (which means that there are cavities under it and the base is not strong).
2. Next, prepare the surface for laying tiles.

• If there are large differences relative to the horizon, it is necessary to level the surface. We do this with a cement-sand mortar.
• After the screed has dried, prime the surface and dry.
• We arrange waterproofing using bituminous pastes or a special mixture for plaster waterproofing.

• We prime again to increase the adhesion of the base to the future coating.
• If the differences in the horizontal level of the floor are small, you can use a special self-leveling mixture (level-mass) that can remove the difference from 3 to 15 mm. In the case of using a level-mass, a surface primer is not needed.

Now the base of the floor is ready.

Above, the options for the bathroom - tiling were considered and you have already chosen the appropriate installation method.

1. We begin laying the tiles in the direction from the far wall to the doors. We also determine which wall will have a bath, shower, washing machine or furniture, under which the cut edges of the tile will hide. We carry out work from the direction of the open corner (whole tile) to the wall with plumbing (cut tiles).

For this:

• we set two tiles in the corners to the desired height and fasten them to the alabaster (it dries quickly and can be easily removed in the future);
• the wrong side of the tile is well wetted with water (can be lowered into a container of water);
• with a special (notched) trowel we apply diluted glue to the entire surface of the tile;

• we put it in place, joining with the lighthouse tiles, and leaving a gap between them with the help of special identical crosses;
• we upset the laid tile in place, tapping on it with a trowel handle;
• we check the correctness of the draft with a rule, a rail or a nylon thread, putting it on top of the lighthouse tiles, or we check the horizon with a short level;

• excess glue that has come out after precipitation is removed with a trowel;
• clean the seam between the tiles with a spatula;
• check the horizon again;
• we repeat the whole cycle until the end of the row, then we remove the beacons and install them already with glue.

1. After all the tiles are laid, and the glue has dried, we proceed to grouting the joints:

• with a dry cloth, it is necessary to remove the remaining glue from the surface of the tiles;
• fill the seams with diluted grout with a rubber spatula;
• Let dry and remove excess.

As you already understood, the laying process is not difficult, but it requires accuracy and care. A well-chosen technology will ensure a long service life of the tile. Good luck!

Tile selection and installation

In order to correctly calculate the amount facing material, it is necessary to measure the surface area on which it will lie, and also determine the size of the tile itself. Tiles range in size from 100x100mm to 600x600mm and are sold at square meter. You need to buy it with a margin, since when laying about 5% can go to marriage. Also, the number of tiles purchased is affected by the way it is laid. There are several such ways:

1. Direct styling. This is the simplest and most common way.
2. Diagonal fit. Looks more impressive, suitable for square rooms, will help hide slanting walls.
3. Laying in a checkerboard pattern. The best way laying tiles of two or more colors.
4. Offset padding. In this case, the tile of the next row is placed with an offset to the tile of the previous row. This option is more suitable for rectangular rooms.
5. Mosaic. This method is laid out of a facing material of different sizes and colors, while creating a certain pattern, pattern.

After the choice and method of laying has been made, you can begin to prepare the walls.

Before starting repair

Before laying the tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, you will need to check if there is a slope on the walls. This is easily done with a level, the walls must be strictly at an angle of 90 degrees. If you deviate up or down, you will need to first level the surface with plaster. You can see how this is done on the video, without leveling it with high quality, it will not work to lay tiles in the bathroom - such a repair runs the risk of not holding out for a long time.

If the angle between the wall and the floor deviates from the norm of 90 degrees, ugly gaps in the masonry between the tiles, difficulties with installing a bathtub, or shower tray(the appearance of large gaps that will have to be sealed with sealant), etc.

Often, those who decide to lay the tiles on their own do not think about which side to start laying the tiles. And this is very important point.
Experienced craftsmen they know that if you start laying tiles in the bathroom or kitchen correctly, then less material will be needed, which means less finance will be spent. It will also reduce the time for laying tiles and the design in the bathroom or toilet will look better.

By and large, the question: “Where should I start laying tiles” does not have a clear answer. But there are several points by which the master determines which side to start laying tiles.

First you need to decide on the sequence of laying tiles in the bathroom or kitchen. It is advised to start laying tiles from the walls, and not from the floor, because. during work, the material with which the tiler works may fall from the walls and the new tile on the floor will be damaged. Another reason why laying should start from the walls is the drying time of the tiles. In order for the tile adhesive to fully set, you must wait from several days to a week. This time will have to stop repair work in the bathroom or toilet, and this is extra time.

Laying scheme

Before you start laying tiles in a bathroom or toilet, you need to decide on the location of the tiles. To do this, draw a design on paper and make the necessary calculations.

Next, you should make even markings on the wall, moving the tile from top to bottom without mortar. It is necessary to mark the position of each tile, thereby determining the future position of the tile. The bottom row will correctly be laid last of the chopped pieces.

How to lay tiles on walls

They begin to lay tiles on the walls from the corner that first catches your eye when entering the room, usually this is the opposite wall from front door. On the second row marked with a thread or level, you need to attach a rail to the wall, making sure that it stands level. Then you can start laying tiles on the wall.

To avoid slipping tiles, you can lay out no more than two rows at a time. You can lay two rows of tiles on each wall and so on in a circle. While the row will be laid on one wall, on the other it will already dry out. You need to start facing with whole elements, and the lower rows can be laid from damaged ones.

If a novice tiler wants to lay first one wall after another, we can safely say that nothing will work out - the tiles in the corners will not converge, and the seams will fluctuate from 3 mm to 3 cm, which looks very ugly.

It should also be noted that if there are external corners in the kitchen or bathroom, then the tiling takes place precisely from them, since finishing the row with damaged tiles on outer corner won't work at all.

The bottom row should be placed last. Most often, when laying the bottom row, the tiles have to be cut. This is done with a special tool - a tile cutter.
Between each row of tiles in the bathroom or kitchen, you need to put crosses - special accessories for working with tiles.

In the event that glue is accidentally spilled onto the finished work, it should immediately be removed from the tile to avoid solidification. After the laid tiles in the toilet or bathroom are completely dry, the entire lining should be wiped first with a damp cloth and then dry. After that, you can start grouting the seams.

Drawing on the wall

It should also be noted that if the owner is going to lay out a certain pattern in the toilet, then you need to start laying the tiles from the center of the image. If this is not done, then the drawing may end up in the direction of the wall.

To determine the center of the wall in the kitchen or in the toilet, you need to set the diagonals with a cord, where the diagonals will intersect, there is the center of the wall.

You should start laying tiles from the center of the image and continue the row in one direction and the other from the center. After the central row is laid out, it will become clear where to go next and the work will go faster.

Laying tiles on the floor

Where to start laying tiles on the floor in the toilet?

1. There are three options by which experienced tilers begin laying tiles on the floor. Laying occurs from the farthest corner opposite the door. This is the standard method that is suitable for laying tiles in the kitchen, but if this corner is closed by a shower in the bathroom, then use this method makes no sense.
2. Masonry from the threshold at the door. In this case, laying the tiles starts from the corner that is closest to the door. This method is used most often, since plumbing is usually located on the opposite side.
3. Laying from the center of the room. Four tiles are laid in the center of the room, from which the laying of the floor continues.

There is one easy way to determine which of the three options to use. You should measure the length of the row and divide the result by the width of the tile. If the resulting balance is less than half, then you should start laying the floor with tiles from the beginning of the row. This method not only saves material, but the layout looks neater.

Before starting work, the floor is thoroughly cleaned and leveled. Next, you should create a waterproofing trough that will protect the floor from various kinds of leaks. To do this, use waterproofing - liquid or roll. On top of the insulating layer is primed to increase the adhesion of the tile adhesive.

Grouting

You can grout the seams after the lining is completely dry. All crosses should be removed and you can start grouting.

The grout is matched to the color of the tile, diluted in water to a homogeneous mass and evenly applied with a rubber spatula between the joints.

After some of the seams are rubbed, it is necessary to wipe them with a slightly damp sponge so that the seams are smooth and beautiful.

Saving

Many people think about how to save money during repairs. The first thing you do not need to save on is the quality of the tile, as in the future this saving can cost even more.

You can not lay tiles where it will not be visible, for example, on the walls where plumbing fixtures will be installed. Only at the same time, you need to remember that the walls will need additional protection from moisture - be sure to plaster, prime, and possibly also paint.

Also, you can not lay tiles under the bath, especially if the entire space under the bath is covered with a screen. The floor, where there will be no tiles, should also be protected from moisture.