On the wall, at first glance it will seem unusual to a person uninitiated in the trend modern renovation. However, there is nothing exotic here. In fact, this type of finish is not only unusual, interesting view but also very practical and durable. Laminate has been used for a long time for laying on the floor in various premises- everyone is used to it. But wall cladding with this material is, perhaps, extremely rare. There are a lot of photos by which you can judge the interesting nature of this method of finishing the room.

In this article, we will consider how to do-it-yourself laminate wall cladding, the technical and aesthetic components of this method. The use of laminate for laying on the wall is increasingly used in the interior of residential and office premises. The use of MDF panels and different kind siding is a thing of the past. In the article we will tell you how to fix the laminate on the wall with your own hands, we will demonstrate photo and video instructions.

Benefits of laminate wall cladding

  • The main advantage of laminate flooring is its environmental friendliness. It contains no toxic fumes, making it ideal for a wide range of indoor applications.
  • Laminate was originally designed as a floor covering, therefore it has excellent strength characteristics, which means it will last a very long time on the wall.
  • Since the cost of a laminate directly depends on the strength class, a low-class laminate is perfect for wall cladding, without sacrificing quality at all.
  • Lots of different textures and colors. This opens up great horizons for imagination when decorating walls.
  • Ease of installation of laminated panels. This means that even an inexperienced person in this matter can lay a laminate.

Flaws

Unfortunately, this method also has disadvantages. Fortunately, there are few of them:

  • The susceptibility of this finishing material to moisture. Therefore, with prolonged contact of the laminate with water, deformation or swelling of the panels may occur.
  • A certain sensitivity to sudden changes in temperature. This disadvantage must be taken into account, for example, when facing the walls of the kitchen. With particularly unfavorable temperature regime, the appearance quality may be slightly reduced.

That's actually all. It is enough to observe some precautions, for example, it is not recommended to lay the laminate on the walls of the bathroom, balcony, or kitchen. As a finishing coating for the walls of these rooms, it is best to use traditional, proven methods.

How to choose a laminate for wall cladding

  • Conventional shunt laminate. This type is familiar to everyone. It is he who is most often laid on the floor. The convenience of its use lies in the fact that the laminated panels themselves are connected by a special shunt lock;
  • Adhesive laminate. This type of panels is connected to the surface and to each other using construction adhesive, or conventional liquid nails.
  • Laminate with click lock. This type has a more perfect lock, which snaps into place, preventing the panels from separating. Such a laminate has a higher strength.

Laminate is divided not only by color and texture, but the main indicator is the strength class. It is this parameter that determines the price of the material. It must be remembered - the higher the class, the higher the quality of the laminate. The advantage of using a laminate board for wall decoration is also the possibility of using low-grade panels 21-31. After all, there will be no mechanical load on the laminate.

How to fix on the walls

So, to get beautiful finishes on the walls, you will need to carefully level the surface. The beauty and accuracy of the lining depends on this. Treat this preparatory action as the most important. Of considerable importance is how to fix the laminate. Laying laminate on the walls is done in two ways:

  • Fastening to the crate. It is used in case of large curvature of the walls. The advantage of this method is that there is no need to level the walls. In addition, an additional layer of heat and sound insulation can be laid under the crate. In modern budget apartments with "cardboard" walls, this method may be preferable.
  • First of all, you need to calculate required amount laminate. To this amount, you need to add another 10 percent for trimming and fitting.
  • Prepare the wall for laying. The wall must be smooth and dry. If you decide to make a crate, then this will require a little more effort from you. The crate is made either from wooden bars, or from metal or aluminum profiles, which are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. The distance between the screws should be no more than 40 cm.
  • Sticking directly to the wall. Here, the preparation of the surface for gluing is of particular importance. Various glue can be used: construction, liquid nails, titanium, etc. Glue is applied with a "snake".

Work procedure

  • First of all, you need to calculate the required amount of laminate. To this amount, you need to add another 10% for trimming and fitting.
  • Prepare the wall for laying. The wall must be smooth and dry. If you decide to make a crate, then this will require a little more effort from you. The crate is made either from wooden bars, or from metal or aluminum profiles, which are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. The distance between the screws should be no more than 40 cm
  • The panels can be fixed to the wall both vertically and horizontally. If you plan to clad the entire wall from ceiling to floor, it's best to start at the top.
  • In the case of gluing the laminate, it is treated with an adhesive composition, pressed against the wall and fixed for a while until the glue sets. The panels are attached to the crate with brackets, which are used for mounting plastic panels.
  • After finishing the walls, it is necessary to give them a finished look by installing ceiling and floor skirting boards.

Photo

Video

This video shows the process of fixing the laminate to the wall, with explanations of the master doing the work:

This video will help you understand how to close niches in the wall with laminate:

As you know, laminate is a floor covering. But what kind of ideas do not come to the mind of designers to create unique interior premises. One of these original solutions was the use of laminate for wall decoration.

This innovation is gaining more and more popularity, which is why many home craftsmen began to think about how to fix the laminate on the wall.

This article will tell you how to install laminate flooring on the walls.

Why laminate walls

It's no secret that PVC and MDF panels are most often used for simple and quick wall decoration.

If we consider the laminate from this point of view, then it has some advantages over them:

  1. Its strength is much higher. PVC panels can break through on impact, and laminate flooring can withstand high forces and loads.
  2. Its hygroscopicity is much less than that of MDF panels and it is not difficult to wash the laminate.
  3. Ease of maintenance.

Against the background of these advantages, there is only one drawback - the cost, which is almost 2 times higher than that of the panels.

Problems when laying laminate on the walls

Before you begin to mount the laminate on the wall, you should familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of this process.

In order to avoid problems that sometimes arise during installation, you need to know what they can be:

  1. Laminate is quite heavy. That is why the surface on which it will be attached, and the fasteners must be durable.
  2. Despite the fact that the hygroscopicity of the laminate is much lower compared to the panels, it has the ability to swell with changes in humidity in the premises.
  3. The lower part of the protruding groove is used to fasten the panels to each other, which ensures quick and easy connection. With laminate, the situation is somewhat more complicated. As a rule, laminated boards are equipped with click locks.

On the one hand, such fastening provides good rigidity of the connection, but on the other? the head of a nail or self-tapping screw that falls on such a lock will prevent tight closing, which will lead to gaps.

Based on the above, we draw the following conclusions:

  1. Laminate should only be installed on a flat and solid surface. Sheets of drywall, planted on plaster, can fall off along with the laminate boards attached to them, under their weight.
  2. Do not allow rigid fixation of laminate panels. In the case of adhesive seams, they must be elastic.
  3. When fastening the boards, you should pay attention to the fact that the fasteners do not fall on their locks.

Helpful advice! In rooms with high humidity, such as bathrooms and kitchens, it is not recommended to use laminate as a wall finish.

This finish is only suitable for rooms with a constant and moderate level of humidity (bedrooms, living rooms, hallways).

Laminate installation

You can fix laminate boards on the walls with your own hands different ways. The technology of this process depends on the characteristics of the surface on which they are installed.

Mounting on a flat, solid surface

The easiest way- fixing the laminate on a plastered surface or sheathed with sheets of drywall. Such a surface is quite even, so the laminate is attached to it with liquid nails. This adhesive bond, even after hardening, has good elasticity and is also quite strong.

The following instructions will help you in your work:

  • At the bottom, we set an emphasis for the first row of laminated boards to avoid them slipping under the weight of their own weight.
  • We apply glue in a zigzag pattern on the first board, press it tightly against the wall surface and immediately check the horizontal level with a level.

  • Apply glue to the next board. With this fastening, you should not knock the boards through the boss. It is recommended to insert them into the lock with a slight kink, then snap and press. At the same time, the bottom board should be held.
  • We lay the boards so that in adjacent rows the transverse joints do not coincide.

Helpful advice! If you need to cover a small area with a laminate, then you can assemble a shield from it on the floor and stick it on the wall in this form.

Mounting on an uneven wall

To attach the laminate to the wall, which has irregularities, a crate is used.

  1. You can mount the frame of the crate from wooden slats section 40x40 mm or from metal profiles. The step of the guides should be no more than 60 mm.
  2. We lay the first board so that it rests on the rail (profile). This will ensure the stability of the entire structure, and during installation it will not move down.
  3. Subsequent installation is carried out in the same way as in the case of a flat surface. Do not forget to ligate the transverse joints. In work, a plinth for a laminate can also come in handy.

Mounting on clamps

Laminate can be mounted on walls not only with adhesives. There is a very simple and proven way - fastening with clamps.

These are galvanized brackets, specially designed for fastening lining and laminate to walls or ceilings.

For such fastening, two types of clamps are used:

  1. Serrated staples. They are driven into the board and fixed with screws on the crate or wall;
  2. Flat lug staples. They are used to press the protruding part of the click-lock.

Self-tapping screws are used to fasten the kleimers to the wall or board.

Conclusion

Laminate is a reliable and durable finishing material that gives any interior a beautiful and modern look. No wonder it began to be used for finishing many surfaces.

We have considered all the subtleties of laying laminate on walls, fully covering the specifics of such work. These recommendations will help you avoid the main problems encountered during installation and carry it out with your own hands without much difficulty.

Additional information And step by step process installation of laminate you can find in this video.

It has long ceased to be a purely floor covering, as its very presentable appearance and light weight allow you to ennoble any surface: sheathe the ceiling, decorate a niche or revet the entire room. In particular, we will consider how the laminate is mounted on the wall: methods of fastening and laying out the board, consumables and other nuances.

To create a decorative wall covering, a laminate with the lowest physical and mechanical characteristics (class 21-22) is usually used, because it will not have to experience any loads on the wall.

Note! This does not mean that, for example, a class 32 board cannot be used for wall cladding. You can, it's just more expensive, and it's impractical. However, you will even be forced to use such a laminate if the finishing is done on the floor too.

Board sizes may vary. IN standard version it is a bar 1288 mm long, 186 mm wide. But depending on the desired design you can also use narrow short boards that look like parquet. They look very interesting when laying herringbone or diagonally.

Before proceeding with the transformation of the interior, you must first resolve the issue of acquiring the main and Supplies. And for this you need to accurately determine the technology, since you can mount the board on the wall both with glue and with a crate. Let's consider both methods.

Glue mounting

Adhesive finishing always implies the presence of a perfectly flat base. Therefore, in preparation for installation:

  • a brick or block wall will have to be plastered along the lighthouses;
  • concrete panel walls are usually quite even, they only need to be puttied;
  • in (and in any other) surface can be leveled with plywood, grooved chipboard or drywall.

After the primer applied at the last stage has dried preparatory work, you can proceed with the installation of the cladding.

Important! A newly purchased laminate should acclimatize - that is, lie down in the room where it will be installed for at least 48 hours.

Facing in stages

To work, you will need two tools: an electric jigsaw and a drill with a “crown” nozzle, through which holes are made for socket boxes and switches, as well as a metal square with a pencil and a clerical knife. Glue must be purchased polyurethane (it does not shrink), in a tube for a mounting gun.

Table. The main stages of cladding.

Steps, photoDescription of actions

The first thing to do after printing laminate packages is to sort the boards according to the intensity of the shade or the severity of the pattern. Most likely, it will turn out that certain variants will prevail in number. Your task is to make sure that when laying in the coating, the boards alternate, and the unevenness of the pattern is not striking.

The laminate board around the perimeter has interlock connections protruding beyond the painted chamfer. From the first board, from the side where it joins the perpendicular wall, the lock is cut off with a jigsaw. This can also be done with a knife, but it is more likely to damage the bevel.

Glue is applied to the back of the board with a snake.

Glue the first cladding element in the upper right corner, after which you measure the remaining distance to the floor with a tape measure. Accuracy to the millimeter is not required here, since the gap will then be closed with a plinth anyway.

One board does not overlap the height of the wall, so it has to be increased in length, cutting off pieces of a certain length. Usually, in order to save material, a “floating” layout is made, when the rest of the board, the first part of which was laid at the end of the previous row, is set at the beginning of the next.

On a note! The end cut can be performed in two ways: with an electric jigsaw equipped with a saw with a tooth in the opposite direction; grinder with a disc for ceramics. To avoid chipping the decorative coating, the laminate is cut along the front side, after cutting the top layer with a knife along the square.

Cut not along the line itself, but next to it. In this case, the cut line is perfectly flat and without jagged edges. For a better effect, the edge can be slightly rounded with fine emery.

The second row must be glued with a single strip, for which all the parts are folded on the floor and fixed together with adhesive tape.

It turns out a long composite board: it is turned over, glue is applied and inserted into the lock of the first strip at once. If you lay each element of the strip one by one, then on each of them you will have to cut the end locks.

If necessary, make a hole for the socket, mark the board and drill it with a crown on the tree.

In the last row, the boards usually have to be cut lengthwise if they do not fit in width. But even if they do, you just need to cut off the side lock, as they did at the very beginning.

Lathing installation

The option with a crate is good when the wall needs to be insulated or soundproofed, or there is simply no desire to level the base in a wet way. Under the bars, which in this case are used for battens, irregularities can be compensated for with linings or direct hangers.

Advice! The tree is highly susceptible to linear expansion from temperature and humidity changes, which can affect the quality of the coating (). Therefore, it is very important that the bars used for the frame are well dried. And even better if they are heat-treated. Such wood is easily recognizable by its specific “tan”, as in the photo.

  1. The size of the bars is selected depending on the presence or absence of internal filling. In addition to insulation, after all, it is possible to provide for the installation of built-in lamps, the height of which will determine the amount of indentation of the decorative surface from the wall. But if you are not going to do any of this, the size of a bar in a section of 45x70 mm will be quite enough. In this case, the indentation of the cladding from the base base will be 45 mm.

  2. If the laminate board will be mounted horizontally, the frame elements are placed vertically on the wall. At the same time, all because of the same linear expansion, there must be a gap of at least 10 mm between their lower ends and the floor. The step between the frame belts is 600-650 mm.
  3. Before installation in each element of the frame, every 50 cm, it is necessary to pre-drill holes for fasteners. According to the preliminary marking, apply a beam to the wall, stick a pencil through these holes and put marks on which you will drill.

  4. Dowels are selected depending on the type of base. If it is, for example, cellular concrete or ceramic block, you need a special spacer fasteners. The fixing bar of the self-tapping screw should have a flat head that is recessed flush with the surface of the wood. If it sticks out, the laminate will not lie flat on the crate.

  5. Horizontal cladding is carried out from the bottom up. The first row of boards is laid so that the ridges "look" at the floor and wall, and the grooves - in the direction of laying the next elements. After the level shows the perfect line, the laminate can be fixed to the frame. To do this, use wood screws with a flat cone head, and they are screwed along the bottom line - right through the laminate. In the picture below, these fasteners are circled in red.

  6. Along the upper edge, the board is no longer fixed through the front cover, but through the edge of the tongue, carnations measuring 1.7x2.5 mm, hammered at an angle of 45 degrees. The end of the next board of the first row snaps into the lock of the previous one.

  7. To seal the connection, attach a plank to it and lightly tap it with a hammer. Then, again, fastening is made with self-tapping screws from the bottom through the front layer, and on top with nails through the lock.
  8. Let's move on to the second row.. You cut its first board in half - this is necessary in order to ensure that the lining of the seams is offset. Now the boards from below are fixed only with a comb into the groove, and from above - all the same with nails. Everything else is done in the same way until the wall is completely transformed.

To hide the ends of the laminate and give the cladding a finished look, you can use wooden or polyurethane moldings, aluminum corner profiles. The principle of using corners is shown above.

If there is on the wall outer corner, which also needs to be lined, then the boards forming a right angle must be cut at 45 degrees. The joint can also be closed with a special profile. Alternatively, it can be sanded and covered with a pencil or other compound intended for repairing wooden surfaces.

Conclusion

Sometimes you need to hang something on the laminate flooring. A light object - for example, a poster in a frame - can only be attached at the junction of the laminate to the crate, directly to the bar. If, for example, you need to hang a TV on the wall, then you need to make a window in the cladding and mount it to the base base as shown in the picture.

Prices for laminate "Tarkett"

tarkett laminate

Video - How to fix the laminate on the wall

The practice of interior design in unusual ways entered long ago original use facing materials. One of the many design solutions - finishing internal surfaces laminate flooring. Against the background of the traditional use of lining, plastic sheets or MDF, laminate panels certainly win due to their strength and attractive appearance. Products are not hygroscopic enough, it is undesirable to use them for facing rooms with high humidity. Therefore, before gluing the laminate to the wall, the mounting methods should be studied in more detail. Strange as it may seem, but attaching laminate flooring to other planes is not much more difficult than doing it at its intended destination - on the floor. A properly fixed laminated element diversifies and makes unusual interior hallway, hallway, bedroom or living room.

In favor of the use of newfangled finishes, the best qualities of the product speak: high wear resistance, reasonable cost, strength, ease of maintenance. The material is produced in a wide range. Although it reminds natural wood, but manufacturing technologies make it possible to produce boards with different textures, textures, various wood shades. Installation of laminate on the wall can be carried out:

  • on wooden crate, this method is called wireframe. For its manufacture, well-dried bars treated with antiseptic agents are used;
  • on a frame made of aluminum profiles using silicone sealants;
  • on special glue or liquid nails;
  • using kleimers, which are usually used for MDF panels.
On glue
On kleimers
On a wooden crate
For aluminum profile

If the fastening of the laminate on the frames does not require an absolutely flat surface, then gluing it or fixing it with clamps without first preparing the wall will not work.

Laminate flooring material is quite heavy. They don't want to cover plasterboard partitions. There is a risk of collapse.

In order to choose the right method for attaching the laminate to the wall, factors such as the condition of the surface, the geometric dimensions of the room should be taken into account. Because the frame, no matter how thin it is, still steals space. You may have to level the surface, since it will be more convenient to attach the laminate to the wall with an adhesive method than to build a crate.

Styling options

It is absolutely pointless to laminate all the surfaces in the room. Not everyone likes the floor, which goes to the inner planes up to the ceiling, and even on it, from the same material. Even in different shades, textures. But individual accents and inserts can bring some zest and uniqueness to the interior. Moreover, laminated lamellas perfectly coexist next to any finishing materials. Therefore, they apply as classic interiors, and in modern scenery, like industrial style or high-tech. How to put the laminate on the wall, the decorator decides in each case individually.

There may be many options. But they depend not so much on the installation methods, but on the colors, specifications, material texture. The slats can be placed horizontally, vertically, with offset boards, in a checkerboard pattern. Laminated products are used in the same color and of the same quality, or they try to attach boards using various combinations and transitions. That is, the imagination of designers and customers is not limited by anything.
vertical
Horizontal
Diagonal

To veneer a vertical surface with a newfangled finish, it is not at all necessary to invite an expensive company or construction team. You can save a lot on labor costs, since fixing a laminate on a wall with your own hands is quite affordable even for a novice master. It is enough to watch a video on this topic, get acquainted with the technologies, choose your option, buy everything you need and stock up on tools. To work, you will need the following tools:

  • a puncher or a powerful drill, preferably with a drill bit if the building is built of stone, brick or concrete;
  • screwdriver, jigsaw, hammer, pliers;
  • construction level and plumb line, measuring tape;
  • pencil or marker;
  • as a rule, trowel or trowel;
  • spatulas different sizes, including serrated;
  • a container for mixing glue and a suitable nozzle for a puncher or construction mixer.

Tools

This is a general list of tools that may come in handy on the job. A more specific list is determined after making an exact decision on how to attach the laminate to the wall. Will it be necessary to install a frame, or glue the material directly onto the finishing plane.

Installation rules

Since the methods of facing wall surfaces are strikingly different from each other, the technology for their production should be considered separately. But there is one general rule- materials are not used directly from the store. They must be kept for a certain time in the conditions of future operation.

Sheathing according to wooden frame convenient because between basic design and the finishing layer forms a free gap. The gap between the wall and the laminate can be used to hide communications, to create a sound barrier, or for other purposes. Measures for laying wires and insulation should be carried out at the stage of mounting the frame; after installing the finishing panels, this will not work. The process looks like this:

  • if necessary, the wall is leveled with plaster mortar or embedded large shells, chips, cracks;

Surface leveling
  • markup is made for the placement of the frame. The vertical beam is mounted in such a step that it is convenient to mount laminated boards on it. Usually this size is equal to half the length of the board;
  • according to the established dimensions, a beam is cut and fixed vertically to the base, using a level. Extreme bars require special attention, they determine the future plane. They must be mounted in an ideal level;
  • if the laminated boards are arranged vertically, then the bars are mounted in the same order, only horizontally;
  • a horizontal beam must be fixed slightly above the floor plane, since they start laying the laminate on the wall from below. The quality of further work will depend on the correct installation of the first row;

Installation on a wooden crate
  • special holders must be installed on a horizontal bar, with the help of which it is convenient to install the first row of lamellas, with the groove up;
  • the following panels are connected to the lower connection of the spike into the groove and fixation with brackets to the vertical bar;
  • for greater strength, the joints are treated with silicone sealant, it should be applied to the spike of the inserted lamella.

Facing is not made close to the surfaces of the floor and ceiling. Laying a laminate on a wall without creating an expansion joint or gap means creating additional stresses in the finished plane. This can lead to unnecessary deformations. The resulting gap is closed with decorative strips made of a material suitable for the general style of the room.

Wall&Water or the so-called “dry” method consists in mounting a frame made of aluminum profiles. The panels are connected to each other and to the frame elements using silicone sealant and click elements. The distance from the wall to the cladding can also be used rationally.
Metal crate

In some cases, laying is carried out with kleimers directly to the base, without crates. This installation method is simple, but requires a flat surface, otherwise the strips of material will not be able to fit snugly against the base, and gaps between the wall and the laminate, in this case, are not allowed. Such a defect will distort the surface and spoil the overall impression.

Adhesive method - for this case, the thinnest material is usually chosen so as not to create an extra load on the surface to be trimmed. You can fix the laminate on the walls with both ready-to-use glue and dry mixes. This method requires thorough surface preparation. The finished plane is marked out according to a previously developed layout scheme. Horizontal and vertical lines are needed in order to accurately and evenly glue the boards.
Fixing laminate flooring with liquid nails

It is convenient to collect small shields on the floor and lay them entirely on the glue. To do this, the adhesive is applied in an even layer on the plane of the wall, using a notched trowel, and the prepared shields or planks are pressed tightly. Between themselves, the lamellas are connected with locks, which are additionally lubricated with silicone.

What to do if the wall is uneven

Laying laminate on the wall with gluing, in case of irregularities, is simply impossible. First you need to either level the surface, or choose another mounting method. You can level the walls in different ways: with plaster, starting putty, sheathing with sheets of plywood, drywall or OSB, observing the appropriate technologies.

There is one caveat - since laminated boards are usually lined with only some part of the plane, then in order to comply with geometry and symmetry, the entire base will have to be prepared. Otherwise, she will “dance” and look, to put it mildly, ugly.

Therefore, before deciding how to lay a laminate, it is necessary to correctly assess the quality and condition of the surface to be veneered. Illiterately laid material cannot decorate the room.


Leveling walls with plaster

For which rooms this method of decoration is not suitable

In fact, there are no strict restrictions on the use of laminate flooring. But the solution to the issue of finishing still should be approached wisely. Why waste money and energy on something that may not last long. Moreover, the choice finishing materials and funds are wide enough.

The material should not be used in rooms without heating and with high humidity. It is not suitable for lining light partitions and surfaces made of soft materials. Of course, you can veneer a balcony or a loggia. But, it is extremely undesirable to use glue there, and a crate or an aluminum frame will steal part of an already small area. There is only one way left - to plant the lamellas with kleimers directly on the base. In any case, it is worthwhile to think carefully and calculate the options for how to fix the laminate on the walls. And then decide which finish to apply in a particular room. Now you know how to lay the laminate on the wall surface or, if necessary, glue the laminate so that the coating lasts as long as possible.

Video

The video explains in detail how to lay the laminate on the wall.


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