Five main reasons why a modern iron fails. Iron repair. Causes of iron breakdown Is it possible to repair the iron
I love puzzles... especially unexpected ones. Here is such an unexpected puzzle “fell on my head” today. More precisely, it fell not on my head, but on my shirt, and did not fall off - but fell off.
The iron fell apart in my hands, while ironing a shirt .... I just took it and the sole fell off (it remained hanging on the wires). The case turned out to be in one unscrewed screw (the fragility of fastening the sole of the iron aroused suspicion in me from the very beginning), which fastened the sole on the “nose” of the iron.
In order to screw this screw into place, it was necessary to disassemble the entire iron, which was a puzzle. A cursory "google" did not bring a solution and I had to "storm" the iron ... So I decided to combine the solution of the puzzle with a photo session. Maybe it will be useful to someone, although the model of the iron is not known .... but still..
This is how my iron looked at the very beginning, the sweat that fell off and the assembled top of the iron:
The heel of the sole is fastened without screws, with some kind of grips-anchors)) Ie. the reliability of the design rests on the same screw on the nose of the iron.
I note that I took the photos after disassembling the iron ... so there will be a “reconstruction of events” next.
So meet - the iron itself:
Disassembly should begin with a vile hidden screw under the lid of the water tank:
But you need to remove the cover from the closed state by grabbing it with a screwdriver and lifting it up.
Unscrew the first screw:
We take out the "horned garbage" from the end of the handle and take out the rotary control. To do this, unscrew it counterclockwise until it stops, and then pull it up.
Unscrew this screw, this is the second hidden screw. I only found it when I was assembling the iron… I broke it or it was broken before me (the iron is not mine) will remain a mystery!!! In my case, there is an option to buy super glue or find dichloroethane and glue the plastic together:
The next 2 screws are hidden under the temperature controller cover. It will have to be severely torn out with a screwdriver. (in my case it was easier, I pushed it out from the inside, because the sole was not screwed on yet)
Loosen the screws here and near the heel of the sole. There will be 4 more screws: two big ones and two smaller ones...
Let's take a detail:
Mesh filters at the bottom of the cylinders...
You also need to watch and not tear off (as I did) the tube leading to the sprayer on the iron nose:
EVERYTHING, finally I got access to the ill-fated screw on the toe of the sole. It can be screwed down and iron assembled. But I recommend checking the integrity and tightness of all contacts. And in general, carry out maintenance of the iron, the races have already been dismantled ....
When assembling, do not forget to put in place various little things so that there are no “extra parts” after the repair:
two damn things that I almost forgot to put back on. Those are some pads...
Everything, I tighten the ill-fated screw:
And I begin the assembly ... in the reverse order of disassembly ....
The only thing I note is that in order to properly assemble the temperature controller, I unscrewed it all the way clockwise and accordingly knew in what position it was necessary to put on the regulator cover itself ... this was the position of the maximum temperature:
Look like that's it…. do not forget about the screws and do not get nervous when assembling and disassembling))))
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If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can handle it. We will talk about how to repair the iron with your own hands in this article.
General device
Since irons are produced by very diverse companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating rate, quality of spare parts, etc. But here the general device remains the same. Available:
- A sole with the heating element built in it. If there is a steamer function, there are a number of holes in the soleplate for steam to escape.
- Thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature of the sole.
- Container/reservoir for water, which is used for steaming.
- There is a nozzle for spraying water, forced steam output. There is also a steam intensity regulator. With its help, the frequency of automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
- The iron is connected to the network using an electric cord, which is attached to the terminal block located in the back under a plastic cover.
After you have in general terms familiarized yourself with what is where, you can start repairing the iron with your own hands.
What will be needed for work
To work, you will need a set of screwdrivers - Phillips and flat. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card - pry off parts of the iron with latches. To check the integrity of the parts, you will need a multimeter (). Another may be required - this is if you have to change some parts.
Of the tools, everything, but in the process of work, sometimes you need electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing, you may need sandpaper, pliers.
How to disassemble an iron
The first difficulty faced by those who want to repair the iron on their own is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are a few screws that are visible and which are difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches. So having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, separate the cover from the body.
Under it, a terminal block is found to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can not disassemble the iron further. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.
In some irons - Philips (Philips), Tefal (Tefal) there are still bolts under the cover. We twist them too. In general, if we see a fastener, we remove it.
Remove the back cover - the first thing to do when disassembling the iron
Each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. That is why difficulties arise. But there are a few points that are found in almost any manufacturer.
Immediately you need to remove the temperature control dial and the steam supply buttons, for which they must be clamped in your fingers and pulled up. The buttons may have latches, so you may need something thin so that you can wring them out a little - you can pry with a screwdriver.
In some irons, such as Rowenta, as in the photo, there are bolts on the handle (there are some Scarlet models). If there are, we unscrew them. A screw is also hidden under the removed buttons, we also unscrew it. Then remove the top plastic parts. They are usually fastened with latches. To make it easier to remove them, you can insert a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.
There are usually a number of bolts under the covers. Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more accurate recommendations - there are too different designs. What can be advised - to act slowly and carefully. And a few videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.
Power cord
Power cord failure is a fairly common type of breakdown. With such damage, the iron may not turn on at all or work in fits and starts, the soleplate may not heat up well. The cord can bend, curl, the insulation is damaged at the bend, some wires can fray completely or partially. If there is such damage, it is better to replace the cord, regardless of whether it is the cause or not. In any case, all places with damaged insulation must be insulated.
In case of any damage, any repair of the iron begins with a cord check. To accurately determine whether it is in a normal state or not, it must be called. To do this, just remove the back cover. The terminal block to which the cord is connected will become available. You will need a tester or multimeter. We put it in the dialing mode, we press one probe to one contact of the plug, with the second we touch one of the wires on the block. When you touch the "correct" wire, the multimeter should beep. This means that the wire is intact.
The color of the insulation of the conductors can be any, but yellow-green is necessarily grounding (it must be checked by placing the probe on a small metal plate at the bottom of the plug). The other two are connected to the pins of the plug. Here one of these two wires should ring with the pin to which you pressed the multimeter probe. We repeat the same operation with another pin.
To be completely sure that the cord is in good condition, you need to wrinkle / twist it during the dialing. Especially in those places where there are problems with insulation. If the squeak from such actions is interrupted, it is better to replace the cord. It is also subject to replacement if one or both pins “do not ring”. You may be lucky and you will not need further repair of the iron.
Checking the performance of the heating element
If the iron does not heat up at all, the heating element may have burned out. If this is the case, then it is worth buying a new iron, since a replacement will cost almost the same amount. But first of all, you need to make sure that it is the heater that is to blame.
In order to check the heating element, we get to the very sole of the iron. On it, closer to the back, there are two outlets for the heating element. We translate the multimeter into the position of measuring resistance (up to 1000 Ohms), we take measurements. If the display shows numbers of the order of 25 ohms, then the heating element is normal, if more, it burned out. As already mentioned, in the event of a heating element burnout, it is not worth repairing the iron - it is more profitable to buy a new one.
Checking the thermostat
The thermostat looks like a plate with a group of contacts and a protruding plastic pin, on which a disk is then put on.
There are two contacts on the plate. We install the probes of the multimeter on them and check the performance (we call). In the “off” position, the sound of the multimeter should disappear, when turned on and turned to any position, it should continue to sound.
The damage may lie in the fact that in the “on” position there is still no contact - then the iron does not heat at all. There may be a different situation - it is not turned off by the regulator and / or does not respond to the position of the regulator. Both reasons are in contacts. And, most likely, they burned.
In the first case, carbon deposits can interfere, which can be cleaned off by putting a piece of fine-grained sandpaper between the contacts and a couple of times and “crawl” over the contacts. If there is no sandpaper, you can use a nail file, but you must act carefully - the temperature settings depend on the bending of the plates. So you can't bend them too much.
In the second case - if the iron does not turn off - the contacts may have burned out - fused. Iron repair in this case consists in an attempt to separate them. But such a focus rarely succeeds. The solution is to replace it.
There may be another point: when falling, the contacts could somehow interlock. When the soleplate of the iron is heated, the curving thermoplate presses on the contact groups, but the contacts cannot open. The result is the same - the iron does not turn off when heated. Iron repair is also similar - we are trying to restore mobility to the plates, trying not to bend them. If it doesn't work, we change it.
Fuse check
Approximately in the same area where the thermostat is located, a thermal fuse is installed. It stands in case of overheating of the soleplate of the iron - it burns out if the iron is heated to dangerous temperatures. Usually a protective tube is put on this fuse and most often it is white.
Find contacts, call. In the normal state, the fuse "rings", if blown - silence. If desired, you can move the handset, ring directly - there may be a break / burnout of the connecting wire. If the fuse is blown, unsolder it, look for a similar one and install it in place.
It is not worth excluding the thermal fuse from the circuit - it will save you from fire in case of problems with the thermostat: it will simply blow out and the iron will not work. And although the iron will require repair, your home will be safe.
Steam spray system
If almost no steam comes out of the iron, and there is water in the container, most likely the holes are clogged with salts. Restoring performance can be done with a simple trick. In dishes with low sides (a pan or baking sheet is suitable), pour water and vinegar (regular, table without dyes). One glass of vinegar per liter of water. The second recipe is for 250 ml of boiling water 2 teaspoons of citric acid. In a bowl with the prepared liquid, lower the switched off iron. The liquid should cover the sole.
Put the container with the iron on the fire, bring to a boil, turn it off. Wait until it cools down. Warm up again. So you can repeat 3-4 times. Until the salts dissolve.
Sometimes water stops flowing from the sprinkler. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the tube is disconnected. In this case, the repair of the iron consists in dismantling the panel on which the injection buttons are fixed and reinstalling all tubes and wires.
The second way to descale the iron is to disassemble it completely so that only one soleplate remains. Seal the sole with tape so that water does not seep through, but you can also put it in a bowl. Pour inside the sole hot water with vinegar or citric acid, stand until cool, drain, pour again. Continue like this until you are satisfied with the result. Then rinse with water and collect.
- a guarantee of neat things and a neat look. Responsible and respectable housewives experience not very pleasant emotions when the device breaks down - not everyone can afford its expensive repairs. And why give extra money if you can fix the device yourself. Let's look at what are the main malfunctions of the ironing device and how you can repair the iron at home on your own.
Before disassembling the ironer, check all external structural elements, perhaps the problem is in them. The main parts of the iron are in its bottom, they then serve as the main reasons for the breakdown. Among them are:
1) Temperature controller.
2) Electrical cord
3) Water regulator
4) Steaming system
5) Iron sole
6) Heating element
Iron origin
The first ironing facility was invented in ancient Greece - turned heated stones were used for pleating clothes. When the first iron similar to the modern form appeared, it was used exclusively for ironing silk.
Interesting fact: the body of the first irons was filled with hot coals.
It is not known who and when invented the semblance of a modern iron, but the invention of the first electrical appliance is attributed to Henry Seeley. An American registered a mechanism called "Electric flat iron" in 1882.
Weight electrical device was six kilograms. Therefore, it is not difficult to imagine what the ironing process was like. After the method of heating due to the carbon arc was introduced into the mechanism, the care of fabric items was greatly simplified.
In 1892, Crompton Co and the General Electric Company began manufacturing irons on an electric spiral. Further, a current regulator and steam supply, scale protection and other important options were introduced into the devices. In accordance with fashion, the design of irons changed.
Iron device
The principle of the ironing mechanism is as follows: the current heats up the spiral, which directs the derived heat to the sole of the mechanism. A rather complicated design of the ironing machine includes the following elements:
- Electric wire. In such devices, wires with a fabric braid are used; it protects the wire sheaths from heating and chafing.
- Steam regulation system. Special buttons on the mechanism serve as a signal for the supply of steam or water spray.
- Water tank. In a special compartment, the liquid for supplying steam is processed.
- Thermostat. Due to thermoregulation, the device does not overheat, thereby not spoiling things.
- Iron sole. The part serves for direct ironing of clothes.
To determine the malfunction, the device should be diagnosed. That is why for self-repair it is recommended to know the design features and the principle of operation of the ironing machine.
Iron diagnostics and identification of possible causes of malfunction
The iron may not work for various reasons, its breakdown is affected by poor-quality care, the duration of operation, the water used and many other factors. Consider the main signals of the device about a malfunction.
What does it mean when the iron beeps? Each device of this type has thermal relays, they periodically turn on and off. You can diagnose them with an electrical tester. To do this, disassemble the ironing machine and check the electrical signal with a tester.
The iron is leaking: what to do? Estrus can be due to two reasons: a valve malfunction or improper operation. In the first case, water flows out of the steam generator iron: when the valve is closed or the liquid is not heated enough to produce steam. To check the part, fill with water and plug the device into the mains. Shake the device in a horizontal position and turn off the steam supply. If water flows out, the valve is not closed tightly. With Philips ironing devices, such a malfunction occurs less frequently, and models are especially typical for long-term operation.
What to do if the iron does not steam well or does not release steam at all? The reason may lie in the scale. In this case, you need to clean the mechanism with a lemon solution: pour a mixture of citric acid into the iron and set it to steaming mode. Wait for the steam to fully recover and rinse the device with distilled water.
Why is the iron not heating? Optimal heating stops when the following parts break: a pump, a thermal fuse, or the contacts simply come off. To accurately determine the device, you should diagnose it, you can do it yourself or entrust it to a specialist. For diagnostics, open the device and check the suspected parts with an electric tester. If one of the parts fails, the device will stop beeping.
Why does the iron take a long time to cool down? Perhaps the problem is with the thermostat. You can check the breakdown with a multimeter as follows: open the case and clean the contacts on the bimetallic plate with sandpaper. Check them with an electric tester and turn the tiller of the regulator. The number 1 on the display of the device will indicate its malfunction.
How to disassemble an iron
Disassemble the mechanism old design no problem, harder to deal with new models. Modern three-tier irons consist of a handle, a body and a sole. Find hidden under plastic trim screws can be difficult, for this you need to know the main locations of their location. The fastening elements are located in the end part, under the temperature controller and the handle, as well as under the buttons. Take a suitable screwdriver or other hand-held object and carefully pry off the body of the device. After the device case is removed, unscrew the last three screws on the inside of the sole. Now, we can assume that the last stages of dismantling have been completed. Assemble the mechanism in the same way. Watch the video: How to disassemble an iron in 3 minutes.
Advice: Treat the unwinding of the iron with special attention and caution. In most cases, it is impossible to disassemble the mechanism without breakdowns. You can find out the details of the design by reading the instructions, so there are more chances to protect the device from mechanical damage.
Power cord problems
Most often, the cord is frayed near the plug and body skin. If the cord is damaged, the part must be replaced. Conduct electrical tests beforehand, they will help determine the exact cause of the breakdown. Tests are carried out using a multimeter, a test lamp, a phase indicator and using a "nonsense". The principle of operation of the devices is the same. All of them serve to determine the electrical signal at given points. Some models of irons do not have a power cord, such devices include.
Advice: In some cases, to resume normal operation of the iron, it is enough to strip the contacts on the plug. In this case, it is not necessary to change the wire.
Malfunction of a tubular electric heater (TEH)
Before replacing the main heating element, try to descale it. It is scale that becomes the main reason for poor heating. With proper use, the heating element should be cleaned of corrosion, scale and other damage every 3 months. Also, due to severe overheating, the coil on the heating element can break, this is another reason to replace the part. Before buying a device, determine the required power, size, heat transfer conditions for the future part. The process of replacing an old heating element with a new one is simple; for this, connect a new one to the place of a faulty device. Ten is screwed with screws.
Advice: The more power the iron has, the faster it will heat up. Powerful mechanisms include models and.
Advice: As the tenes release different design, picking up an element for a new iron model will not be a problem.
Thermal fuse failure
The thermal fuse is designed to protect the electrical system of the device from mains surges or short circuits. The part is placed near the main heating element. To diagnose the thermal fuse, use a multimeter ( inexpensive option- ): connect the plus and minus contacts to the two ends of the part. The number one on the display means an open circuit (a complete malfunction of the device). As practice shows, a thermal fuse becomes a common cause for iron breakdown. However, you should not be very afraid, during normal operation of the temperature controller, the device is able to function without the help of a fuse.
Irons as household appliances appeared a long time ago. They were bulky, heavy and inconvenient to use. The advantage of these devices was their "indestructibility" due to the simplicity of the design. They became unusable only when hot coal burned through their metal bottom.
Today, an iron is a high-tech device consisting of several nodes that have fine tuning and coherence.
Rice. 1. Repairable iron
When all this is violated, the device junks and eventually fails. This happens due to various reasons. Incorrect operation, falling of the device, use of chlorinated water for the steam generator and much more. As a result, such a necessary device turns into a useless piece of plastic and metal.
What to do if your favorite device stops heating? The main thing is not to panic, but try to return the iron to its working capacity. Often the cause of the problem is minor and easily fixable.
Below, the article will describe the troubleshooting of an electric iron and how to fix it and repair it yourself.
Of the tools, you only need a Phillips screwdriver, a multimeter or ohmmeter and small pliers called "ducks".
Although this iron does not have a steam generator, its electrical circuit and design are practically the same as the first ones. Therefore, the method for diagnosing and repairing the electrical part is identical for them.
In photo 2, a device that does not heat up when it is connected to the network and the thermostat wheel is rotated.
Rice. 2. Turn the knob, but the iron does not heat up Mains voltage is present, visually the cord and plug have no visible damage.
Judging by the tag (Figure 3), the power of the device is 1000 watts. This is not a big figure, as there are instances with a power of up to 2500 watts. The more watts the iron consumes, the faster it heats up, but the more current passes through its circuits and contacts. Therefore, such devices are more likely to be subject to conditions under which they fail.
Rice. 3. Specifications As with many irons, you should start by removing the back cover of the case (Figure 4). It rests on one screw, located exactly in the middle of the cover.
Rice. 4. Remove the back cover of the case Loosen this screw using a Phillips screwdriver.
After the screw is removed, the cover will be removed freely and you will be able to see the incoming electrical circuits of the iron.
Rice. 5. Electrical circuits of the iron For ease of installation, there is a terminal block inside (Figure 6), to which the incoming cable comes. On the other side of the terminal block, the wires go deeper into the device.
With a high power of the iron, wires can burn out in this place or the terminal block body can melt. The fact is that this method of clamping with screws is not entirely reliable, since over time the connection heats up and the screw loosens.
In this case, the connection heats up even more and as a result the wire burns out. And this place is often the weak link in electrical circuit device.
Rice. 6. Terminal block But everything looks great in the photo. No hints of heating, let alone a broken wire. Most likely, this is due to the low power of the heater.
But in order to make it convenient to disassemble in the future, it is necessary to remove the cord clamp, which is held on by two screws.
Rice. 7. remove the upper part of the iron body Using the same Phillips screwdriver, unscrew one screw and loosen the other.
When the cord is released, pull it out and unscrew the case screws.
Rice. 8. unscrew the case screws Now let's move on to the front. Both screws in this location are under the water container. This is an ordinary spray bottle, for irrigating clothes before ironing.
Rice. 9. Press the release button To remove it, press the release button (Figure 9) and remove the atomizer itself. Next, take out the water container.
Rice. 10. Take out the atomizer 
Rice. 11. Water container Under it, two screws are hidden that fasten the case to the sole of the iron. We unscrew one, and then the second screws.
Rice. 12. Unscrew 2 screws After these manipulations, the top cover can be easily removed.
Rice. 13. Remove the top cover Only the sole with a protective cover and electrical circuits remains.
Rice. 14. Iron sole Photo 15 shows that the indicator lamp is moving away from the terminal block.
Rice. 15. Indicator light It should signal the operation of the iron when the mains voltage is applied directly to the heater.
In the center is the thermostat slider (Figure 16) with an oblique guide cut. This cut is necessary for docking the regulator wheel on the top cover with the temperature sensor engine.
Rice. 16. Thermostat engine We take out the neon lamp from the seat (Figure 17) and unscrew the three screws securing the protective cover of the sole (Figure 18).
Next, you need to disconnect the wires going under the casing, otherwise they will interfere. The wires, both incoming and outgoing, have the appropriate color, so there is no need to mark them before disconnecting.
Rice. 17. Take out the light bulb 
Rice. 18. Unscrew 3 mounting screws But before that, we check if the problem is in the cord. To do this, we connect the terminals of a device capable of testing the circuit with blue and brown wires (Figure 19). These colors correspond to the phase and zero of the 220 V network. We turn the thermostat slider first in one direction and then in the other direction.
The device does not show anything, which means that the break is further under the protective cover.
Rice. 19. Looking for an open circuit Unscrew all wire clamps one by one.
Rice. 20. Unscrew the remaining wire clamps After removing the wires from the clamps, carefully remove the protective cover.
Rice. 21. Remove the protective cover We put it aside and again take the chain pointer. We connect its ends with the conclusions of the heater or heating element. The device shows that the heating element is intact, and this is good news, since it is pressed into the soleplate of the iron.
Rice. 22. Checking the heater The only thing left is the temperature controller.
A brown wire comes to one of its outputs, which comes directly from the network. Having connected the device to this output of the temperature sensor (Figure 23), as well as to the white wire that goes to its second contact, we turn the regulator again.
Rice. 23. Checking the thermostat Nothing happens, so the thermostat is faulty.
What can be done in this case? The simplest thing is to replace the regulator. But finding the same one will most likely be problematic, especially a working one.
Some short-circuit the temperature sensor with a piece of wire, thus removing it from the circuit.
But this is not an option, because at best, when overheated, the iron can burn the delicate fabric. And at worst, the whole apartment or house, if it is accidentally left plugged into the network. Therefore, a direct connection is not an option.
What then can be done? Just adjust the bimetal plate of the thermostat. If you look closely, you can see that the thermal relay contacts are open in any position of the regulator knob.
But if you press your finger on the bimetallic plate, the contacts will close at some point. So you need to bend the plate a little and everything should work.
We take the “ducks” and, having captured the bimetal plate with them, slightly rotate it counterclockwise (Figures 24 and 25).
Rice. 24. Rotate the bimetal plate 
Rice. 25. This should be done as carefully as possible and in the middle position of the thermostat engine. At some point, a click will be heard, and the contacts will close.
We take measurements after completion (Figure 26). It can be seen that the contact part of the temperature sensor closes.
Rice. 26. Measurements after completion Now we get the wires into the hole in the casing and stretch them with our fingers from the other side. We also carefully lay out the wires. We put on the upper part of the case and clamp the screws for its fastening.
It is very important that when connecting the body to the sole (Figure 31), the axis of the regulator wheel fits exactly into the cut on the thermal relay engine.
To check if these two parts are connected correctly, you need to turn the regulator wheel in different directions. If it is fixed in two directions, then everything is connected correctly and assembly can continue.
Rice. 31. We connect the body with the sole We fix the case with screws and put the container with the spray gun.
Rice. 34. Put back the back cover
We turn on the iron in the network and rotate the wheel.
In photo 35, you can see that the iron has turned on and is heating up.
Rice. 35. Iron works At some point, he himself turned off, gaining the desired temperature.
We spin the wheel to the maximum, and it turned on again. We can assume that the regulator is working correctly and will not fail at the right time. On this repair can be considered completed.
It should be remembered that all work must be carried out with the device disconnected from the mains.
In our life, the iron occupies a very important place, it gives our clothes beautiful view, smoothes out all the wrinkles after washing, and, conversely, if it is necessary to specially form arrows, it helps to give our clothes a finished look.
In our life, it happens that our assistant fails, and not all functions work for him, the steamer may not work well, and what’s worse is not heating at all.
In this article, we will analyze how to repair the iron with your own hands, so as not to throw away the old one and not buy a new one. At the moment, we operate quite a lot of types of irons: from the simplest to irons with steam generators.
It should be noted that the basic design of these irons is monotonous. On the market, they are represented by a large number of companies, for example, Philips, Rowenta, Tefal, Bosh, Braun (brown), etc.
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The main breakdowns of the iron
When the iron works properly, this is, of course, good, but there comes a time when something goes wrong. Therefore, we consider the most common breakdowns. These include:
- Wire break. This is manifested by the fact that the iron does not heat up, the light bulb does not light up.
- Breakdown of the thermostat. The iron works in one position or does not work at all, does not respond to the switch of the regulator, or it heats up all the time without turning off.
- Teng burned out. The light is on, but the iron does not heat up.
- Steamer failure. At the same time, garbage is pouring, there is no steam, water is pouring and so on.
Let's start repairing
For repairs, we need a straight and Phillips screwdrivers. It is advisable to have a multimeter, a knife, on hand:
- A wire break is the simplest breakdown of the iron, as a result of which no voltage is applied to the iron and the heating element does not heat up. In this case, you need to determine the location of the break. Often this occurs at kink points, mainly at the entrance to the iron.
After determining this breakdown, we open the wire insulation with a knife, strip the wire on both sides and twist it, do not forget to isolate the wires - this will ensure you are not damaged electric shock, as well as from a short circuit in the iron.
The design of the thermostat is quite simple. It consists of a bimetallic plate (which bends and opens the contacts when heated) and a pair of contacts, all of which can be enclosed in a housing. In a cold state, the contacts must be closed, and the resistance of the temperature controller must be equal to zero. This is easy to check with a multimeter. 
Also, the contacts should easily diverge. If this does not happen, then they, then, are burnt. It is required to disconnect them and clean them with a zero or a small needle file. If the iron does not obey the regulator, then it is necessary to replace the thermostat, as this is a mechanical failure and repairs are more expensive and of lower quality than replacing the iron with a new one.
2. Checking the heating element. (TEN - tubular electric heater). Often, if the heating element does not heat, then it is required, first of all, to ring it with a multimeter. A serviceable heating element has a resistance of several tens of ohms, depending on the power of the iron.
A non-working one will have a resistance equal to infinity. In the event of a burnout of the heating element, it must be replaced, if possible, or the iron will be more efficient at all.
3. If the lamp is on, but the heating element does not work, there may be another breakdown of the thermal fuse. In this case, it needs to be replaced. When replacing, it is advisable to take exactly the same or at a higher temperature. It is installed using clamps, since soldering is not effective at this temperature.
4. If the steamer or spray system does not work well, then you need to clean it. To do this, prepare a solution of water and vinegar in a ratio of 1 liter per 200 grams of vinegar. You can also buy special solutions for cleaning scale.
Having removed the upper bar of the iron, you can see two pumps (the one on the left is for steaming). Carefully inspect the pump for the presence of plaque on it
To do this, pour the solution into a wide container, set the iron in this position, with the sole in the water, but so that water does not get inside. We heat the water to a boil, leave it to cool, repeat this procedure 3-5 times. From experience it should be enough. The steam or sprinkler button may also not work, in which case it needs to be replaced.
5. Also, the fuse installed in some models of irons can simply blow out. People suggest simply closing it, but in such cases the iron will work without protection, so it is recommended to replace it with exactly the same one.
End of repair
In all positions of the regulator there will be resistance. If the position is disabled, in this position the resistance will be equal to infinity.
Note: during assembly, all wires must be separated from each other, not touching the bare part to the metal.
More serious malfunctions require repair in the workshop household appliances. Keep in mind that sometimes buying a new iron is justified by the cost of repairing it.
From this video You will learn how to repair the iron with your own hands:
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