P-shaped sofa with your own hands. How to make a sofa: instructions for making. Video: unusual homemade sofas

The sofa in modern apartments is the most important design element. Often, for good quality furniture that matches the interior in color and shape, retail stores set a prohibitive price. Making a sofa with your own hands is much cheaper, and its manufacture will not cause difficulties.

Materials used

Depending on the desired model of the created piece of furniture, the place where it will be installed in the future and its purpose, you can absolutely choose different materials. To make a simple sofa, you can use several wooden pallets or pallets. Furniture from them is made quite simply, it is cheap and today it is at the peak of popularity. One has only to supplement the resulting pallet sofa with soft pillows, and it will turn into a great resting place for a Loft-style room or become an indispensable piece of furniture for installation on the veranda of a village house.

The material for the manufacture of another of the simplest and most cost-effective options for a homemade sofa can be the most ordinary cardboard. Old cardboard boxes, e.g. from household appliances, pieces of bookbinding cardboard, corrugated cardboard - everything can go into business. The main difference of such a sofa will be that in this model not a single nail and screw will be used, the parts of the sofa will be fastened together with the help of carpentry glue. Since cardboard is quite easy to cut, you can get furniture of any shape and size. In addition, this design will weigh less than a sofa on a full-fledged wooden frame.

wooden boards as a material open up a huge field for creativity. Of these, you can create a full-fledged folding sofa with any chosen mechanism, make both a frameless version and furniture on a strong wooden frame, create a comfortable sleeping bed or just a place to hang out with friends. The abundance of types of wood offered for sale in specialized stores and the thickness of the boards used allows you to adjust the weight of the finished product, its strength and functional features. From wood, you can also make interesting non-standard models of furniture for relaxation. So, you can easily make a hanging sofa swing. It can be a great option, for example, for a gazebo or veranda. Slow rocking and soft pillows will create a relaxing effect and give you a real rest from pressing problems.

Craft Perfectly new item furniture can also be restored with the help of the restoration of the old frame. Sanding and impregnating the wood with a special solution will help renew the old wood material and create the basis for a future project.

In addition to the frame material, upholstery material may also be required, depending on the model being made. Here, dense upholstery materials, which are most often used for the production of upholstered furniture. The choice will be determined by the interior design, the amount that the master will be willing to allocate for materials and the functions assigned to the sofa.

The most popular upholstery materials:

Genuine Leather- one of the most durable and durable materials, gives sophistication and solidity to manufactured furniture, however, it has a high cost and requires special tools to connect parts.
eco-leather- a material that has all the advantages of genuine leather, among the advantages, one can single out a lower cost and a larger range of colors.
Leatherette- the cheapest analogue of leather, quite durable, environmentally friendly and stylish. Among the minuses is the fear of mechanical damage.
chenille- a comfortable fabric for craftsmen who do not have much experience in sewing, as it does not stretch or slip, but at the same time it has a high degree of wear resistance.
Velours- soft and pleasant to the touch material, also refers to materials that are convenient for sewing, but it also has a significant disadvantage - stains are difficult to remove from such a fabric and it is very capricious in care.
Tapestry- dense and durable double-sided material with a pattern. You can buy it in absolutely any fabric store, but you need to remember that a sofa with such upholstery does not tolerate direct sun rays, as the fabric burns out quickly enough.
Jacquard- durable, pleasant to the touch material, reminiscent of silk. Has a characteristic luster. When choosing, it should be borne in mind that when stitching, the material can slip and you will have to make some efforts to make the product beautiful and neat.

When choosing a material, it is also worth considering how the upholstery will be sewn together. If you plan to sew a cover on a regular sewing machine, and not on an industrial one, it is more appropriate to choose thinner fabric materials. When fastening parts made of thick furniture leather or leatherette on a machine that is not designed for heavy materials, there is a risk that the machine will not sew them or even break.

A homemade sofa, if the idea suggests it, should have a soft comfortable seat. To do this, you need a special material - a filler. As it can be used:

Foam rubber- one of the softest furniture fillers, besides, it has a low cost and is available for purchase in retail stores.
Polyurethane foam or polyurethane foam- a relative of foam rubber, however, it has a denser structure, and therefore furniture filled with polyurethane foam is quite rigid.
Sintepon - soft synthetic material white color, most often used as a heater or as cheap way soften the surface.
Batting- soft filler with a high content of cotton, and therefore it is a material that passes air well.

In addition, a spring block can be installed inside the sofa seat, which will extend the service life and improve the functional qualities of the furniture. The springs for such a block can be dependent and fastened to each other according to the serpentine principle, or they can be independent - in this embodiment, each spring exists separately and has its own individual case.

If the sofa is planned to be made sliding, it is necessary to purchase a layout mechanism. They exist in the following types:

"book";
"Eurobook";
"tic-tac";
"accordion";
"roll-out";
"dolphin";
"konrad".

In addition, you need to stock up on self-tapping screws, wood glue, which will easily and firmly glue the wooden frame, you will definitely need dense threads for sewing upholstery details.

Of the tools, an electric jigsaw, a screwdriver, a furniture stapler, as well as a sharp knife for cutting foam rubber will be useful.

How to do at home?

Any home-made project must begin with an idea - choosing a model and determining the purposes for which this piece of furniture will be used. If the sofa is planned to be used as a main or additional bed, it is better to opt for a sliding model, in this regard, you need to take care of buying a layout mechanism, choosing a denser and quality material upholstery, as well as the use of a full-fledged spring block at the base of the furniture. If the home-made sofa will be used strictly for sitting or as an element of the decor of a summer house, garden house or stand on a terrace, you can experiment with the materials of both the upholstery and, in principle, the entire sofa. Massive sofas made of timber, actual from pallets, unusual ones made of cardboard, with and without armrests - any option can be appropriate and successfully created with your own hands.

So, when the type of the future sofa is chosen, its purpose is indicated, the general plan is drawn, the dimensions are outlined, you can start purchasing materials and directly creating what you want.

Creating a sofa with your own hands includes the following steps:

selection and purchase of materials;
creating a framework;
upholstery.

Of course, depending on the type of construction chosen, actions can be changed, added, or completely excluded.

From a pallet

So, in order to make a sofa out of pallets, you need the most minimal set of materials and tools. You will need several pallets, if desired, they can be sanded and painted in desired color, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws and a jigsaw, plus material for pillows that will serve as a soft back and seat for such a sofa. For armrests, it is necessary to cut off the extreme parts of the pallets with thick wooden inserts. These short parts must be stacked on top of each other and secured with screws, after which the finished armrests must be attached to the already prepared base. The best option there are 3 cuts stacked on top of each other, but if desired, their number can be changed, which will help achieve the desired height of the armrests.

At the base there can be either one pallet or several interconnected with screws, the choice will depend on what size the sofa is planned to be in the end.

Next, use a sharp knife to cut out two rectangles from the foam rubber or other selected material to fit the size of the seat of the future sofa. After the foam has been successfully cut out, it is necessary to start tightening the seat. There are several ways here: the upholstery can be sewn with a machine or manually, as well as fixed with a furniture stapler. The same manipulations must be repeated in the manufacture of foam cushions for the back of the sofa.

If the sofa will stand against the wall, then here its manufacture can be completed, but if it is not intended to lean the sofa against the wall, then the backrest must be attached to the finished frame. To do this, you need to take one or two more pallets, depending on the amount used to make the seat, and screw it with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver to the back of the sofa, after which you can already put the pillows in place and enjoy the homemade new interior.

Homemade "book"

This is a more difficult option to manufacture, requiring more materials, time and effort. It is necessary to start manufacturing by determining the exact dimensions of the future interior element; for convenience, they must be written down on a sketch prepared in advance. In addition, you need to stock up on materials, you will need:

boards 25-30 mm thick for the manufacture of the frame;
beam;
foam rubber;
synthetic winterizer or batting;
upholstery fabric;
plywood;
sofa legs;
sofa mechanism;
wooden slats;
glue;
self-tapping screws;
staples for furniture stapler.

In addition to the above materials, you need to stock up on a certain set of tools. So, you will need:

jigsaw or hacksaw;
furniture stapler;
screwdriver;
roulette;
pencil.

When you have all the listed materials and tools, you can start manufacturing. This production involves a fairly large amount of debris and dust, so all work is best done on garden plot, street, or in the garage.

The first step is to assemble the frame of the future linen box, for this it is necessary to assemble a rectangle from the boards of the desired length (the length of the box is 30 cm, less than the final length of the sofa along with the armrests). After the main frame is assembled, it is necessary to strengthen it with transverse rails; as a base, a sheet of plywood is attached to the bottom of the frame using self-tapping screws. From boards of the same length, it is necessary to assemble two more rectangles with transverse reinforcing rails - these will be the seat and back frames of the future sofa. It is necessary to attach wooden lamellas to these frames using a screwdriver - the basis for the future mattress. It should be remembered that all lamellas must be located at an equal distance from each other.

The next stage is the manufacture of armrests. Four armrests of the selected size and shape are cut out of plywood, then a beam is installed along the perimeter to strengthen the structure on two copies, after which the two remaining forms are fixed on top of the beam. Further, the individual parts of the sofa frame are assembled into one whole, at the same stage a special layout mechanism is attached.

There are a few simple rules to help with assembly:

When unfolded, the distance between the back and seat of the sofa should not be less than 1 cm;
In the folded design, the seat should in no case protrude beyond the attached armrests.

Next, the finished frame is pasted over with foam rubber, which must be chosen based on personal preferences, since there is a different structure and thickness of the material. After foam rubber, for greater strength and softness of furniture, the frame is sheathed with padding polyester or batting. At this stage, the most creative part of the work begins. With help sewing machine it is necessary to sew a cover from upholstery fabric. Such covers are usually sewn to fit the dimensions of the sofa parts and put on them, shrinkage occurs with the help of zippers.

An alternative to this method is to shoot the upholstery fabric directly to the frame using staples and a furniture stapler. This method allows you to attach the fabric exactly along the frame with less time. The sofa book is ready. All that remains is to install it in the most prominent place in the room, perhaps even building a special podium for it, because a hand-made thing should arouse the pride of the inhabitants and the envy of those who do not have such an exclusive piece of furniture.

New furniture from old

When at home there is an old sofa that has been sold and has become uncomfortable, but a favorite sofa that is a pity to throw away, you can create a new piece of furniture from it. First you need to remove the old upholstery, carefully so as not to tear, because in the future it will become a pattern for the new one. Next, remove the filler from the frame (foam rubber, polyurethane foam, or any other), if sleeping area on the spring block, then remove it.

Clean off the remnants of the old filler from the frame and sand it with sandpaper - now the frame is completely new. This is followed by the replacement of springs, if required by the model of the sofa.

After the new spring block takes its place, it is necessary to return the filling to the sofa - the frame is pasted with foam sheets of the required size. The final stage of the transformation will be the upholstery of the sofa with new material. To do this, it is necessary to cut out the material according to the old pattern, sew the details, put the finished cover on the workpiece and shoot it with a furniture stapler. If desired, you can add a new thing with soft pillows made of suitable fabric.

Where to place?

The placement of a homemade sofa is determined by some factors, such as:

Room style;
Functional features of the piece of furniture itself;
Owner's taste preferences.

So, a sofa made of pallets that is so relevant today will fit perfectly on a balcony or terrace, a comfortable stylish seat will enliven the interior and you will want to spend evenings in it more often, wrapped in a blanket and contemplating the stars in the sky. In addition, these sofas can be the highlight of a loft-style room.

A hand-made wooden swing sofa can be placed in a gazebo in the country, you just need to remember that since it will be influenced by natural factors, the wood used for manufacturing must be treated with a special protective impregnation. Folding, full-size sofas with handmade linen boxes can be placed in the bedroom or in garden house, it is only necessary to choose a suitable upholstery material for manufacturing, which will harmoniously look in the interior of the room.

Simple frameless non-folding sofas will be a great option for a kitchen or living room, especially if such a sofa has an angular shape. Here it is necessary to pay special attention to the selection of fabric - it should not absorb odors and be picky about cleaning. You can also treat the upholstery with a special coating that will repel water and reduce the combustibility of the material. In addition, in the guest room or on the loggia, you can also place furniture made by yourself from cardboard. However, it is worth remembering that such models are sensitive to moisture and do not accept wet cleaning or contact with liquids.

However, if the sofa is already created by oneself, there is definitely no need to hide it, it is safely necessary to place it in the most prominent place in the room, unless, of course, materials suitable for the general interior of the room were used when creating it.

First of all, it is necessary to develop a detailed project of the future sofa. Definition overall dimensions, the exact height of the backrest, armrests, seat depth and other important elements should be reflected on the plan. It would be great if it would exist both in written and electronic form. When determining the dimensions, it must be remembered that, for example, the height of the seating area directly depends on the location of the furniture, and the kitchen corners are usually somewhat higher than those pieces of furniture that are used for relaxation. When a plan is developed, attention can be paid to materials. To create a frame, experts advise paying attention to wooden bars or cuts of a profile furniture pipe. With it, the frame will turn out to be even more durable, and the sofa will last a long time.

If foam rubber was chosen for internal filling, it is necessary to choose not loose and sufficiently thick cuts. The thickness ideal for home-made furniture starts from 15 cm, otherwise the foam rubber will need to be replaced too quickly, for which you will have to disassemble the entire structure. The same rule applies to restoration. old furniture. As for the reworking of old furniture, the main parting word here will be that the sofa must be photographed before disassembly, plus, photos of the disassembly process itself will be useful - this simple action will help to assemble a new similar item in the future, and not guess what and where is attached.

If the idea to assemble a sofa on your own comes for the first time and there is no experience in this, you should not chase complex designs, it is better to start with the simplest straight forms. And in order to feel the wood, tools and fabric, it’s better to start with an ordinary stool, so to speak, to test your strength on it. After all, it is better, in which case, to remake a smaller form than large-sized furniture.

Agree, each of you at least once thought about how to make a folding one. After all, perhaps, there is not a single apartment or house in which there is no soft sofa. When you come home, especially after work, you really want to either sit or lie down on your cozy sofa. Only here fashion changes every time, and with it the design of furniture. And you can create an original folding sofa with your own hands.

A comfortable and original folding sofa can be made with your own hands, having free time and the necessary materials.

Production and purchase of materials

It will take your free time, but it will also bring benefits. Firstly, you will save your money on this sofa, since now the cost of store copies is quite high. Secondly, you will select qualitatively Consumables and you will be sure of them. Thirdly, you can change the look of the sofa at any time by changing the upholstery. Fourthly, you will save the area of your apartment, as the product will be assembled during the day, and in the evening it will be able to turn into a sleeping place. And, most importantly, you will feel proud of your work and brag about it to family and friends.

Before you start making a folding sofa with your own hands, you must decide on the size and type of product. There are three main types of them: a sofa-book, a roll-out sofa, a folding sofa. And also do not forget to draw his drawing. You will need it not only during the work process, but also in order to correctly calculate the consumption required material. Having decided on all this, you can proceed to the next step.

In order, namely a folding sofa, you need to purchase the following materials:

boards (5 cm thick and 15 cm high);
corners;
bars;
springs;
upholstery fabric;
thick foam;
transparent varnish;
hinges for doors;
furniture boards;
jigsaw.

Having bought everything, you can start working on the sofa itself. The instructions will help you with this.

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Making a folding sofa

The back of the sofa is made from furniture board.

Let's start with the back of the sofa. It is made from furniture board. On it a little earlier, mark the upper curly line. To do this, take a template. Next, you must drill a gap in the form of a diamond and the top line of the back according to the drawing. You will need a jigsaw for this. To get an opening in the form of a rhombus, you need to pre-cut holes for a jigsaw. Then drill slots near the blunt corners of the diamond. In sharp corners, do not turn the jigsaw saw.

After completing this work, remove the sawdust from the edges. After cutting out the remaining parts of the furniture board, all elements must be sanded. Do not forget to carefully strengthen them by pressing them to the workbench board. Using a profile router, you should round off the front parts of the sofa parts. If you wish, then varnish the finished elements.

Then attach the main block of wood to the wall. Size and height are up to you. The height you determine will be equal to the height of the side parts of the seats. Attach the beam horizontally in the middle, fix it along the edges with screws. Place a wooden rail on it, on top of which fasten the hinged seats, thanks to which the sofa will unfold. Next, this rail should be attached at the bottom to the bar with self-tapping screws. Holes for them are made initially.

The sofa unfolds and develops thanks to special loops.

After that, you must mark the location of the hinges for the side seats, they will fold inward. Holes for dowels are drilled along the mark, the loops are fixed with screws. When the hinges are installed, the sides are attached to them. Now install the back of the sofa, taking a double-sided self-adhesive tape. You can complement the back with foam rubber in a case. It looks both beautiful and comfortable. Homemade sofa is ready. The only negative is that there is no additional linen box.

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The principle of making a sofa book

It is possible in another way. But first, get everything you need:

boards;
bars;
lamellas;
bolts;
transformation mechanism;
interlining;
foam rubber, synthetic winterizer;
sofa covers (you can sew yourself);
wooden fittings (for armrests);
sandpaper.

Majority folding sofas equipped with a box for linen.

Start by collecting the laundry box. You make a box with dimensions of 190x80 cm. To make the structure stronger, attach two transverse rails in the middle. Make the bottom of the box from a fiberboard sheet. The seat and back will consist of two identical boxes made of bars (40x60). Nail slats on them to hold the mattress.

Make armrests from chipboard (24 mm). They need to make frames. Drill holes at the bottom for the bolts. In the linen box, you also make 2 holes on both sides. Attach the transformation mechanism on both sides so that there is a free space of 10 mm between the backrest and seat frames. Make sure that the seat does not slide out of the armrests when the product is folded.

All roughness on the frames can be processed with sandpaper. Attach interlining and thick foam rubber to the lamellas. You do not cover the transformation mechanism with it. You can cover the foam rubber with a padding polyester on top so that it does not wear out. Put on sewn covers on the seat and back.

Glue foam rubber twisted in the form of a roller onto the armrests, and you will also need to attach it on top to thicken and soft the armrests. Cover the armrests with the same fabric from which you sewed the covers for the sofa itself. Fasten accessories on the front side. Do not forget to check if the transformation mechanism works by unfolding and folding the sofa book. Well, the sofa with your own hands is ready. Here the principle of operation of the sofa is simple and reliable. But there is also a minus: such a sofa cannot be placed close to the wall, since when decomposed it will constantly rub against the wall.

The interior of any modern apartment, private house involves the installation of upholstered furniture: beds, armchairs or sofas. Previously, it was assumed that the living room serves as the place where the sofa will be placed. Today, the developers presented such a variety of sofas different type that according to their functional characteristics And appearance they can be located in almost any room, from the kitchen to the balcony.

The newly minted owner of upholstered furniture often has the question of how to assemble a sofa with your own hands. The installation process itself does not imply the presence of a special kind of technical knowledge and skills. The complete set of any sofas implies the presence of a user manual, which details the mechanism of how to do this.

But one must take into account the fact that different shape and the filler of soft parts make certain adjustments to the overall picture of the assembly. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to what sofas can be.

Forms of sofas and types of filler

There are the following types:

Straight is a popular option, often referred to as a classic sofa. Finding the required dimensions of such a sofa that meets the room is not difficult.

Corner - roomy and having the design in the form of the letter "G" option, which is practical, saves space by writing out in a corner, and also combines the function of a bed.

Modular - a representative of a new generation of upholstered furniture, which does not have a fixed configuration. There are sections that are transformed and compiled in accordance with the idea of the owner of the sofa. At the same time, they can both be fastened together, and simply attached to each other.

In the production of soft parts, two types of fillers are used, which determine the following varieties: spring sofas (with dependent and independent blocks) and foam rubber (polyurethane foam is used in them).

Spring sofas are heavier than foam rubber ones and during installation they can cause a number of difficulties precisely in connection with the weight.

Assembling a straight sofa

If, after purchasing the sofa, it was decided to install it yourself, then a certain sequence of actions and a mandatory study of the sofa assembly scheme are necessary. First you need to carefully, without damaging the upholstery, release each part from the packaging. After that, it is recommended to simply leave them in such a state for a while so that the material can “assimilate” moisture and temperature conditions premises.

At this time, you can check the quantity and quality of the accessories that come with the kit, as well as prepare the required tool: screwdrivers, you may need a drill with drills desired diameter, hexagons.

The next step is to screw the legs, if any. This must be done for the simple reason that the assembled structure will be less agile and much heavier. In addition, it makes sense to free up space for further work, so that all the details and tools are in sight.

The composition of the direct sofa includes the main frame and additional elements (back, armrests, decorative components).

The basic build process goes like this:

We put the fasteners by aligning the holes and inserting bolts, self-tapping screws or screws into them as provided in the manual. Next, carefully twist them. Similarly, we connect the seat and back of the sofa. The construction obtained at this step is the basis.

Then, on both sides, we install armrests and all decorative elements, if any, on the frame. There are cases when the mounting holes were not visible, because they were hidden behind the upholstery. Then it should be carefully bent. The instructions should say this.

At the last step, we check the sliding mechanism, if the sofa is equipped with it. His work should be smooth, without creaking and extraneous sounds.

It is important to remember that it makes sense to tighten the internal fasteners not to the stop, later, if the sofa is not mounted correctly, it will be easier to disassemble it. However, after completion of work, one should not forget about tightening all attachment points.

Corner sofa and the nuances of its installation

Assembling a corner sofa involves connecting two or three parts, which are seats, backs and a retractable part. Any specialist will recommend collecting large sofa elements first, and then small ones.

First of all, you need to familiarize yourself with the design of such a sofa. It can be right-handed and left-handed, one part is longer than the other, the folding mechanism itself different models is also different; the assembly sequence will depend on these facts.

The frame, armrests, seats and backrests are the parts of the corner sofa, the connection of which requires the following steps:

First, the supports are attached to the base, corner sections and armrests with screws. Rollers are installed on the sliding part. All elements must be strictly fixed.
Using screws, one of the armrests is connected to the corner section. It is necessary to check the stability of the fixed elements.
The installation of the base section and the backrest is carried out, and the drawer is connected to the second armrest, after which assembled structure attached to the corner section.
The rear wall is installed, fixed with armrests. Again, the stability of the resulting structure should be checked.
Finally, a roll-out mechanism is attached to the guides installed in the base part.

There are corner sofas (Atlanta) complete with a table that is attached to the side and acts as an armrest. The assembly of the Atlanta sofa is carried out in the following sequence: first, the transport fasteners are removed and the roll-out seat is pulled out, fixed with a special stop, the screws are unscrewed with a screwdriver.

Next, the armrest is aligned with the back of the sofa and fixed with two hex screws. Then, through the metal corner of the ottoman box and its wall, the backrest is fixed with three screws. A bar table is screwed to the ottoman with two hexagon screws, which also serves as a second armrest. Thus, two modules are assembled, subsequently they are pulled together by fasteners.

Assembling a modular sofa

Each furniture manufacturer has its own design of modular sofas, the only advantage that remains unchanged is that they can be assembled and disassembled at your discretion. Another advantage of the modules is the fact that they themselves are often sold already assembled, and the buyer is given the opportunity to combine them at his discretion.

But if the configuration of the sofa involves the presence of a more complex module, you will need to do a number of additional steps, taking into account the specifics of a particular model. Modular sofas come in two types: sectional and transformable.

The sectional option implies a rigid connection of ready-made modules, which the buyer chooses himself in the store. The possibility of combining is precisely at the pre-sale stage, when various options layout. And here you may need sofa assembly drawings that reflect all the nuances of possible combinations. Then, already in place, the sofa is connected with fasteners and remains in this form all the time.

More interesting option is a transformable modular system. The number of purchased sections is unlimited, then any design is already formed from them. The initially purchased modular sofa, when rearranging the sections, can become a single bed or a set of chairs. In addition, sections can be given a variety of geometric shapes: square, rectangular, round, etc.

Thus, the process of assembling a sofa is quite a responsible task. But it can be done by anyone who has the time essential tool and the desire to do it yourself. In any case, there is always the opportunity to turn to professionals, assemblers of the company from which the sofa was purchased, or to individuals who provide installation services.

Photo of the sofa assembly process

Do you have a small apartment? Then try to do corner sofa with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction and drawings will help you in the manufacture of simple and compact furniture. Corner sofas will succinctly fit into the design of the kitchen, nursery or living room.

How to make a corner sofa with your own hands

For the production of a sofa, a drawing is made with the calculation of the number of parts and their dimensions. Materials must be taken without frills. Materials from complex connections, mounted independently is quite difficult. For fasteners the best option self-tapping screws are considered. Also, when connecting some elements, special glue is required. Align surfaces well before gluing.

The wooden surface is stained or varnished in several layers. Sawed small parts are sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. Such a surface becomes stronger and more durable.

Materials for making a corner sofa

Pine timber with a section of 3 by 5 centimeters;
Chipboard 1.6 centimeters thick;
Fiberboard 0.3 cm thick;
Plywood having a thickness of 1.5 centimeters and 0.5 centimeters;
Foam rubber 2 and 4 cm thick;
Batting, fabric (dense) for upholstery;
Holofiber or synthetic winterizer;
Furniture legs in the amount of 9 pieces. You will also need a microlift (lifting mechanism).

For the production of a sofa you need:

Electric jigsaw
Hacksaw and miter box,
Furniture stapler with staples
screwdriver
Perforator
Self-tapping screws and bolts
Wood glue
Sewing machine

Step by step instructions for making a sofa

Step 1. If you are planning to make a sofa for yourself, then when you buy chipboard, provide drawings and ask them to cut the slabs according to the indicated dimensions.

Step 2 Then all the parts must be marked and laid out in accordance with the marking.

Step 3 Frame, seats, armrests, backrest must be in the order of assembly. Details are twisted, starting with large ones and ending with small ones.

Step 4. Two identical sidewalls are prepared and horizontal bars and vertical racks are attached to them. They are fastened with ties. This is the frame of the left side.

Step 5.For the left side, the base is assembled, that is, the frame for the seat. It is inserted into the frame, and a plywood sheet is fixed on top. A fiberboard sheet is attached to the back.

Step 6. Then the assembly of the other (right) side of the sofa begins, this part includes a box for linen. On the sides are attached longitudinal, transverse bars.

Step 7 The bottom of the frame is covered with plywood. The back is attached and a chipboard sheet is screwed. The sides are sheathed with blanks. The back part is sewn up with a chipboard sheet. Holes for the microlift are made with a perforator. Bolts are taken for fasteners of the brand 6 by 30 with special hats for furniture.

Step 8. The frame parts are filled with foam rubber. The foam must match the size of the part to be filled. For this, a measure and a template are made, blanks are made according to it. The part is glued to the surface. The seat is padded with 10 cm thick foam.

Step 9. For the upholstery of the sofa, patterns are first made and cut out from the blank fabric. To facilitate the work, you can spread the fabric on the seat and mark the edges with a bar of soap or chalk. Cutting material is made from the outside. Allowances are 1-2 centimeters on all sides. Recesses in the skin, that is, drawstrings with or without sewn on buttons, make the sofa more spectacular.

Step 10. Places for pulling loops are pre-drilled in the plates. For tightening, a loop is made, which is sewn to the upholstery. Loops are made of kapron strong cord.

For less abrasion, agrotextile is laid under the upholstery on foam rubber. The upholstery is fixed with staples using a stapler. When everything is upholstered, the elements are combined into one design.

We offer to see the drawings of the corner sofa:

With the right cutting of materials and assembling everything together, you get a comfortable, beautiful and inexpensive corner sofa. It can serve for many years and the quality will be no worse than the factory one. Now you can make not only do-it-yourself repairs, but also high-quality and beautiful furniture.

A sofa is an absolutely necessary piece of furniture. In small apartments, a sofa can replace a bed, wardrobe, even a living room, in a set with a coffee table. And at the same time, the sofa is a very complex product, one of the most complex in furniture production, therefore, the prices for sofas are considerable, and amateur furniture makers take them with caution and take inexpensive sofas for samples, relatively little functionality and not very strong and durable. This publication is intended to help them better understand the designs of sofas and understand how to make one that will pass on to their grandchildren, unless they have to be pulled over. And designed for premises with the widest range of conditions of use: from garden gazebo to the kitchen and children's room.

It’s not as difficult as it might seem, and making a sofa with your own hands in the luxury category (not to mention simple ones for summer cottages, nurseries, temporary use, until the money is collected for furniture) is quite possible in the garage, shed and even on the balcony. Furniture makers of the old days worked that way. High-tech “bells and whistles” make it possible to reduce weight and dimensions, expand the range of operating conditions, obtain new product qualities and create fundamentally different designs, but the basis of exclusive quality remains unchanged at all times: conscientiousness, accuracy, good knowledge of the properties of materials and a complete understanding of the essence of each production operation. And the design of the furniture is very conservative. Operations that require production conditions, during its manufacture, can almost always be replaced, albeit more labor-intensive and requiring skill with more ingenuity than a well-trained biorobot on a conveyor, but produced hand tool.

Corners that sofas

One of the most popular today is a corner sofa. The reason is high functionality, which is especially evident in small-sized housing. For example, a sleeping and living sofa-corner, pos. And in the figure, folded, it has no sleepy look and the most terry orthodox moralist will have nothing to complain about. But at the same time, its right (in the figure) section is already a single bed, and when unfolded, it turns into a double bed. These are also called sofas for bachelors: I’m tired, I’m not up to it - I’ll fall asleep on a single bed. And another (or forever the only) passion came - enough space for two to get settled, as it should be in such circumstances. Structurally, nothing complicated: uniformly designed and put together a single bed and a folding or roll-out sofa like those described below.

The second most popular is the classic soft corner, pos. B. Sitting in the corner is not only Bad sign, but also inconvenient, therefore, in last years the corner seat is increasingly being replaced with a casket-bar, as in pos. In, or, for the kitchen, a casket-table. The scheme of the device of such a kitchen corner is shown in fig. below. You can dine alone on it if in a small kitchen the table is occupied for rolling, cutting, etc. And the casket and wardrobe trunks (the so-called sofa boxes) will serve as bins for vegetables, storage of homemade products, etc.

This kitchen sofa is made according to the so-called. simplified beam scheme (see below). Its peculiarity is that the seats are narrower than those of the sofas on which they sleep, 400-450 mm versus 550-700 mm. The length of the side sections - according to the place in the room; other dimensions are typical, see below. The material of the sidewalls is a hardwood board 40 mm or chipboard 36 mm. The bottom of the sofa - chipboard 12-16 mm on a frame (also see below) or OSB of the same thickness without a frame; the rest is a board 30 mm, bars 50x50 mm and 50x30 mm (shelf supports). Assembly - on self-tapping screws, dowels and a half-tree tie-in, all with PVA gluing or Moment. Materials at current prices require no more than 3,000 rubles.

Device and dimensions

The sofa consists of a supporting (bearing) structure, most often including a drawer, a bed - sofas, in the presence of a lifting drawer, back and armrests. In transformable products (sofa bed), a transformation mechanism is added to them and, possibly, additional pillows stored in a box. Typical dimensions of the sofa:

Length - 1200-1900 mm.
Sofa width - 550-700 mm.
The height of the armrests is from 100 (ottoman) to 400 mm.
Back height, no add. pillows - 200-700 mm.
Back tilt - 5-20 degrees.
The height of the "sitting" surface of the sofa above the floor is 400-450 mm.

The last parameter, in turn, consists of:

Legs - 50-70 mm.
Carrier frame - 50-100 mm.
Box - 150-250 mm.
The bottom of the sofa (with frame) - 55-75 mm.

Thus, up to 120 mm remains for the padding with lining. If its thickness exceeds 70 mm, the sofa is considered soft, 40-70 mm - semi-rigid, up to 40 mm - hard.

About cutting and sewing

The most difficult and responsible part of the work on making a sofa is its stuffing, sheathing and tightness. These are different production operations; each of them individually and all of them together determine the consumer qualities of the product and its durability more than woodwork. True, craftsmen are actively promoting themselves in Runet, promising to reupholster a sofa in an hour or even 20 minutes, but, firstly, they work mainly with non-woven materials (fleece, etc.), which are short-lived in themselves. Secondly, they are fitted according to a simplified system with turning the corners from the inside out, which is unhygienic and guarantees rapid abrasion of the skin. And most importantly, according to this method of work, there is no reliable information about: a) the durability of the product before the need for tightening; b) whether any of the primary clients contacted this specialist again.

To properly sew covers for sofa modules, you need a serious preparatory work. Its essential subtleties will be described later; beginners are advised to fit the sofa in the old amateur way with a saddle fitting. The pros don't work much for them. it takes a lot of time, and who will pay for it? But during the heyday of stagnation (or stagnation of prosperity?), when it was necessary to sign up for furniture upholstery for a year, and even give a bribe, it was also successfully used by “full dummies”. The sofa is stitched step by step as follows:

The wooden base is covered with technical fabric - canvas, matting, burlap (can be propylene);
Install soft padding, most often - foam mats;
They fit soft, in order of preference, spandbond, synthetic winterizer, batting;
On a piece of decorative fabric, the backstage is swept under the cords, if decorative scars / tightenings are provided, see below;
A decorative cut, without cutting, is thrown onto the product inside out, pulled off as described below, and the corners are swept with a harsh thread (now reinforced with propylene) with a scar outward;
After a day, they check if it wrinkles somewhere, if it sags, if the pattern, especially geometric, has led, and if necessary, correct the corners;
If everything is OK, mark the seam lines, cut and sew;
Pull cords into the backstage for tightening, if necessary;
They throw a cover, make the final tightening, starting from the corners;
After another day, they check according to the drawing, adjust the tension threads ;;
Everything is OK - fix the lapels;
Form decorative ties.

The procedure, as you can see, is quite complicated and long. This is explained by the fact that the properties of tissues, incl. upholstery, differ markedly within the piece. Previously, upholsterers were guided by intuition and experience, now the technical parameters of a particular sample are directly entered into professional programs computer cutting. Home-made templates from wallpaper newspapers do not provide this and do not take into account the initial tightening of the fabric. However, it is useful to make them - to determine the consumption of tissue. A rough estimate according to the method: the length of a cut 150 cm wide is equal to 2 sofa widths + 2 its lengths, gives a large waste. Determining the cut length using templates (allowance - from 15 cm) saves up to 1 m in length (!); how much it is in money - see in the store.

Note: for the same reason, if a sofa is being reupholstered, it is undesirable to use it as a pattern old skin. Under a microscope or a magnifying glass, it is clearly seen that the structure of its fabric has changed significantly compared to the same, from the same machine, jacquard or tapestry.

Additional explanation is also required. 1-3. If you fill the skin hastily, wood-glue-synthetic winterizer-foam rubber-decor, then after a while it will turn out that the skin is greasy, to the touch, especially in summer, sticky, and the dearest parts of the body are uncomfortable on it. Let “some” be 3 years, but what is this life span for furniture? Therefore, soft padding mats need porous pads from below and from above to wick away fumes/sweat/dirt from them. In furniture with spring blocks, by the way, too, see fig.

What to do?

The basis of the sofa is the supporting frame, pos. 1, with a box attached to it, pos. 2. The backrest is attached to this assembly, then the armrests; most often - already sheathed. The frame and box, if the design of the item does not provide for any visible wood, are also sheathed separately before assembly. The lapels of the fabric at the joints in this case do not reduce the strength of the connection, because. vertical loads do not tear off the upholstery, and horizontal loads hold extra. fasteners, see below.

Note: the famous tank designer Christie once said that the idea of silent blocks in the tracks came to his mind when he was repairing his sofa. It is not surprising that a rich man himself was busy with furniture, Christie was an engineer of the second kind. The Ι clan shifts papers at the table, and the ΙΙ-th can do with his hands everything he has thought of.

A sofa is installed on the box and its lifting mechanism(in the simplest case - piano / card loops and a cord-limiter). Perhaps the sofa will be stiff with the mattress loose on it. In any case, the sofa is also upholstered in advance separately.

A special case is office sofas, etc., operated in adverse conditions with the possibility of inaccurate use. Their carrier system is made in the form of a three-dimensional beam structure, pos. 3. But it is not recommended for amateurs to use the connections shown there with confirmations obliquely. In the presence of special equipment and accessories, "oblique screws" are economical and technologically advanced and therefore are widely used in the industrial production of furniture of classes up to medium. But, firstly, such a connection is not as strong and durable as traditional furniture ones. Secondly, it is problematic, if not impossible, to drill very shallow oblique holes with a hand tool to a given depth, exactly at the right angle and immediately in 2 mating parts. And self-tapping screws that have parted to the sides or along the corner (which is not noticeable from the outside) will significantly reduce the strength and service life of the entire product.

A drawing of a simple sofa of a beam scheme is shown in fig. It fits best in the gazebo. Due to the influence of bad weather, pillows are brought / taken away as they are used, and the parts are individually impregnated with an oil water repellent for wood (it can be worked out) or twice with a water-polymer emulsion before assembly. Finishing - acrylic varnish in 2 layers.

To the dacha, where the rain still does not pour through the roof, it will be easier to make a home-made sofa of a simplified beam system, its device is on the left on the trail. rice. Its basis is strong sidewalls-armrests and a pair of transverse beams. Completes the box-bridge power circuit; in this case, necessarily with 2 bulkheads (partitions). Materials:

Armrests - plywood 20-24 mm with overlays from the board at the top (so that they are wider) or, if the cottage is heated (does not dampen), chipboard 30-36 mm.
Drawer - oak / beech board 30 mm; bottom - plywood from 6 mm.
Leg beams - any industrial wood.
The back is the same, a shield, (300-400) x40 mm.

Assembly - on wood screws with gluing. Pay attention to how the box is assembled, this method will still come in handy for us. The second feature is that the box is attached with self-tapping screws not only to beams made of timber, but also to the sidewalls from the inside in a zigzag (snake) with a step of 120-150 mm with an indent from the edge of the board by 30 mm. The back is also attached to it.

If the workloads are smaller, but with a greater proportion of dynamic sign-variables, a simplified scheme with 2 longitudinal beams works better. They need to be raised by about half the height of the sidewalls, otherwise the working deflection, in this case already noticeable, will tend to fill up the sides on top of each other and the sofa will soon loosen. According to this scheme, a children's sofa is assembled with drawers, shown on the right in the figure; box assembly diagram down there on the right. The material of all valleys is oak/beech 30 mm; sidewalls and the bottom of the sofa plywood 18-24 and 10-16 mm, respectively. Assembly - on glue.

Note: it is not worth using laminated chipboard - only the E0 phenol class is acceptable for children's furniture, but this material is rather fragile and will not last long in such a loaded product as a sofa.

How to raise a sofa

With the simplest mechanism described above, it will not work to lift the sofa back: the back is in the way. It remains to move forward. But then, taking into account the height of the support, its upper edge, raised, will be 70-100 cm above the floor. If the hostess is not a tall two-meter tall, how can she put / get something? To roll over entirely in a box and squeak, jerking slippers in the air?

Meanwhile, it is very simple and reliable, and most importantly, not requiring high precision, the lifting mechanism of the sofa can be made by yourself at home, on the principle of a lever-spring system such as an oblique rhombus with 2 dead points. How it is arranged, and at the same time the sofa couch with it, is shown in fig.

Note: the author knows a curious case with an oblique rhombus. A drunk but skilled man, making this ottoman, fenced off the cubbyholes behind the levers (they say, there is also some kind of mechanics) and arranged hiding places for bottles with the necessary swill in them. He even brought the tubes under the lining behind the back. And the better half is more than 10 years old, until he went into a deaf bogged down and did not split himself, and it was not clear why this day was a drunken day, and he did not run to the store for a bubble.

About sofa beds

The sofa bed is, as they say, a classic of the genre. But in the amateur, and in the professional world, innovative works appear all the time. The fact is that the mechanism for unfolding a classic sofa-book is a rather capricious thing. Either he wedges / seizes, then it’s hard for ladies’ hands to assemble / disassemble the sofa, then it turns out to be too expensive and not reliable enough. And an amateur who wants to repeat the chosen sample finds that in a rough-looking piece of iron there are curved surfaces made with sufficiently high accuracy, but there are no detailed specifications for them. Therefore, lovers most often make sofa beds roll-out / pull-out.

Here, 2 systems are most common, with a retractable half of the free bed, pos. 1 in Fig., and in the form of a bridge, pos. 2. The first is less labor- and material-intensive, but its Achilles' heel is the legs. It is inconvenient to recline them manually, and gravitational ones (reclining by their own weight) will someday stand askew and break, a sofa that sags when extended will help.

The bridge scheme is more reliable, especially since its movable (on rollers) supports will also be bedside tables. True, they will have to reach out to them, unless users are prone to necrophilia and do not like to sleep with their feet forward.

The device of the sliding sofa bed of the bridge scheme is shown in more detail in pos. 3. The upper paired rollers (guides/stops) run in the troughs of the drawer. Pay attention to children. Q. This is not some kind of additional mat, but just a decorative overlay. The surfaces of the sleeping halves A and B are, of course, flush. Half-bed A is often made leaning forward on the same canopies as for B, hidden by an overlay C. Then small boxes D open. hidden caches and hide intimate accessories in them.

Both of these systems have a common drawback: to transform a sofa into a bed, some extra free space is required behind the back. What does not happen with a small bedroom, and garbage accumulates there. Roll-out sofa beds of the console scheme are deprived of this vice, now for some reason they are completely undeservedly relegated to the background.

How a cantilever sofa bed is arranged is shown in fig. on right. Its width when extended can be increased to 1500-1600 mm due to the proportional broadening of the console and an increase in the height of the back, and its length up to 2000 mm (this is already a normal twin bed). The excess width of the seat in the assembled form in this case is compensated by the pillows, which, when extended, form half of the bed. In the original design (designed for a tiny sleeping compartment in the hozblok), they are stored in a box. Some inclination of the back is obtained due to the piano loop, its hinge. It can be increased by placing a plywood pad under the bottom wing of the hinge.

The main materials are 50x30 bars and 4-6 mm plywood. On the basis of the armrests - cohesive waste construction timber. The frame of the console is the same design as for the drawer. Connections - through spikes or met. corners, anyway. The height of the pillows is 150 mm, but they sag under the rider, therefore, for use in normal conditions, it is desirable to increase the height of the console, and put the box on its legs.

About eurobooks

The concept of the euro is now as soon as not exaggerated. Moldovans, for example (they have experience of communicating with local migrant workers), dig euros in a trench (according to plan, profile and on time), get drunk on euros (to the bone, to death, to a green snake, blue devils and pink elephants), euros go to the toilet for the most part (no constipation or diarrhea). And the usual folding sofa bed is now often on sale for a reason, but as a Eurobook. But this is still all right, but the click-clack-type eurobook sofa (see fig.), This is already something.

It unfolds and assembles really easily, yes, yes. And the mechanism is expensive, but reliable. To get a double bed, the armrests and backrest sides also recline. How to call them is not clear. It doesn't look like headrests. Sidebars, right? When unfolded, triangular gaps are formed in the heads / legs, which are blocked by additional folding wings, which further complicates and increases the cost of the product.

The most important thing is that in order to expand the click-clack into a bed, at least 0.7 m of free space is needed along its contour. Where to get it? Unless in a studio apartment, the inhabitant of which is embarrassed to show that he is also sleeping here. However, such a state of mind is typical for the current, and not only the current, Europeans. You can talk about a double standard of openness, but from the point of view of simple common sense, a click-clack sofa-book is well.

How to do?

But how to make all these sofas? Where to screw, where and how to drill-cut? Well, let's get started. Just do not forget that what is fitted must be fitted before the general assembly. How to fit, we will discuss after the carpentry, after all, the basis is in it, the manufacture of the sofa begins with it.

Frame and box

Professionally handicraft, if I may say so, the supporting frame is assembled on deaf spikes with wedging and gluing. They give a completely hidden connection and furniture lives on such for centuries, but in order to make them, you need manual frezer on wood, skills in working with it or virtuoso possession of a hammer, chisel and brace.

It will be easier for an amateur to assemble a frame with inset legs, pos. 1 in fig. So it is no less reliable for 30-40 years, and the seam is almost invisible. Cross section of beams from 50-30 mm; legs - from 70x70 mm. In any case, the “stump” of the leg must be at least 40x40 mm. The beams are fastened with pairs of diagonally located self-tapping screws from 4.2x60 with glue.

The box is best assembled on the bosses of a triangular section from 50x50, pos. 2. They are fastened with box boards (oak / beech from 30 mm; pine from 40 mm) with self-tapping screws (4.2-6.0) x45, 2-3 pcs. into each board, i.e. 4-6 pcs. on the boss; connections also with gluing.

Note: the box will be much stronger and more durable if you are not too lazy and assemble the box on the dowels before installing the bosses, a pair per joint.

The bottom can simply be nailed with small nails in increments of 70-100 mm; it will lie on the frame and therefore will not come off. The choice of material is more important here. OSB is the strongest, but the stapler's staples do not fit well into it, many bend and tear the skin; wallpaper nails - too. Chipboard and fiberboard are fragile, delaminate. Suddenly the bottom gets wet, it can simply fail, leaving a nailed strip between the frame and the box.

Note: if you need to pull the sofa, the bottom of the chipboard / fiberboard will show itself in all its glory - when you tear out the old staples, the layered material is picked open so that you can’t attach a new upholstery.

The best bottom material is plywood 4-8 mm thick impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. But, if a box is needed without bulkheads, a problem arises: sheets of plywood the width of the length of the sofa are not produced. Pieces need to be connected so that the joint is kept on weight under the weight of the contents. The same question arises if there are trimmings that are enough for the bottom.

In the industrial production of high-quality furniture, plywood sheets are connected with a shaped hardwood plank, at the top at pos. 3. You can make a “cut” yourself if you have a router. Its length is 2 board thicknesses less than the width of the box (equal to its inner width). Fasten the gusset from the inside to the tsargs (boards) with steel corners. If there is no router, the gusset is replaced with a prefabricated T-beam of 50-70 mm planks with a thickness of 15 mm and a 20 mm liner no less than plywood. It will give the beam rigidity, and without it, sheets assembled end-to-end, under workloads, will begin to delaminate each other mutually. Everything is assembled on small nails, fastened in a box like a gusset.

They connect the box to the frame (recall - after sheathing, if provided) with dowels in increments of 200-300 mm, this is enough not to crawl to the side. An option, perhaps in addition to dowels, is flat metal lining from the inside and self-tapping screws, 1 in the middle for short and 2-3 evenly along the length for long sides.

Note: if the box is without bulkheads, the height of the back should not exceed 350 mm, otherwise the back side of the box will not withstand the loads.

Back

The basis of the supporting frame of the backrest (pos. 1 in the figure) is a side member A made of a solid board (120-150)x40 mm. Most often, for the sake of simplifying the work, they make it a composite of sections, but it will be stronger in one piece. This is cut flush into vertical racks and placed first on dowels. It is also desirable to assemble the entire frame first on the dowels, and then fasten the corners inside with corners or bosses, like a box. Bosses in this case can simply be timber trimmings, tk. The interior volume of the back is not used.

The height H1 is equal to the height of the base frame, without legs, together with the height of the drawer; H2 - the thickness of the sofa, but not less than the height of the spar indicated above. Thickness of bottom slab made of oak, etc. - from 40 mm. Together with the spar and rectangular parts of the uprights, it makes up the lower back belt. This is a very responsible node, because. the normal operating load of reclining people tends to tear it off the lower support.

The normal number of racks for a sofa up to 2 m long is 4 pcs. evenly in length. If the back is wider than the sofa, i.e. captures the armrests, then 2 more are added. The penultimate ones, counting from the middle, fall on the corners of the supporting structure, the most extreme - on the outer planes of the armrests, see below.

The upper belt of the back is made of solid timber with a thickness of 50 mm or more. His "responsibility" is necessary when they stand on the back in order to reach something upstairs or when they drag the sofa by the back when moving furniture. Also here, the upholstery is most likely to crawl and wrinkle, so the upper beam is planed into the same plane with the supporting surface of the back and its edges are rounded (shown in the inset). As for the racks, they can be pine.

The backrest is completed by upholstering its supporting surface with plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from 4 mm, as shown in pos. 2. So it is necessary to give the entire module the rigidity necessary for a strong connection with the support, but it is not necessary to sew up the rear yet!

Now compare pos. 2 and 3. On the last - blunder, which simplifies the work and allows you to quickly get paid for it, but seriously degrades the quality and durability of the sofa. How to attach this back to the support? Self-tapping screws in the ends of the boards? How long will this sofa last until the back comes off?

Support connection

Assembling the backrest with a support is just the case when metal fasteners in furniture are needed. Together they are connected with corners from 60x60x4, and to the back details with self-tapping screws from 6 mm, and to the box / frame - through bolts from 6 mm (heads in the box / frame), 3 of those and those per corner. Washers from 40 mm under the heads and nuts are required! There are also spring nuts under the nuts, it will not be possible to tighten them later!

Corners, on the other hand, need 2 for each vertical joint in the back (12 with 2 intermediate posts), at the top and bottom, 3 horizontal in each section at the top, in the area of \u200b\u200bheaviest loads (to the spar), evenly along the length, and 1- 2 horizontally below. Better 2, in case the sofa will be dragged behind the back. For attachment to the spar, it is better to use 60x40 unequal corners with holes in a narrow shelf arranged in a row.

And only now the back can be sewn up with the same plywood, chipboard, DSV from the rear, covered with technical fabric, glued foam rubber (40-70 mm), and completely fitted. It is impossible to leave the decor for later, so as not to accidentally damage it during further work: it is unacceptable to put the upholstery folds into the junction of the backrest and the support, and it will not work to fit it after installing the armrests.

armrests

Armrests can be solid wood or frame, like a backrest. They are also fully completed prior to installation. The loads on them are less, therefore they are fixed from the inside with self-tapping screws from 6 mm in an envelope or a snake to the box, and to the support 4-6 pcs. in a row.

Armrests of complex shape are most often made framed. In fact, technologically they are not so complicated, pos. And in fig. The decor on the inside reaches the lower edge of the sofa. The backrest should also match the elegant armrests. Then it needs additional lathing of laths approximately 30x40 and inserts from boards from 30 mm, pos. B. The crate is cut into the back racks, and the inserts are fixed with self-tapping screws into the edge.

Sofa

The bottom of the sofa (plywood or chipboard from 8 mm) is assembled on a frame of 70x50 timber with at least 1 crossbar for every full or incomplete 70 cm of length; distribute them evenly. The frame parts are connected by a half-tree tie-in with reinforcement with self-tapping screws on glue. The bottom plate is attached to the frame with small self-tapping screws or notched nails. The frame bars must be at the bottom, i.e. outside (see fig.), and not inside, as is sometimes advised. True, 50 mm of foam rubber disappears in this case, but there is a significant advantage when tightening: staples / nails do not scratch the top of the box, and thanks to the extra bend, the sofa lining (the most loaded one) lies more evenly and holds on tighter.

Upholstery

The upholstery of different sofas and even different modules of the same sofa is made different ways, but they all have a common sore point - the corners. Form them with a turn, as in Fig. on the right, the method is common, but therefore no better. According to GOST USSR, tucked-in upholstery corners are generally a manufacturing defect. Only sewn corners are reliable and durable.

Cutting and stitching the corners of furniture fabrics is done in more than 2 ways: without a tongue and with a tongue, see fig. below. The first is preferable for very dense and durable fabrics (jacquard, tapestry); the second is for more prone to abrasion - velor, courtisan, chinchilla - and leather. But note that the numbers in Fig. indicative, fitting with a sketch is required!

Covers are sewn, as usual, from the inside out and put on turned inside out. When putting on the finished cover, the wings (folds) of the scars are straightened with a special tool like a small shoe spoon. It is called a bobbin, although it does not look like a braided bobbin. The tongue is not sewn into the seam, it is bent and left free during the firmware.

Next comes the tightening. If the corners are with tongues, then they level the sheathing with them, and the tongues are fixed. Then the cover is pulled with a harsh thread from the underside along and across, 2-3 ties per 1 m of length and, pulling the threads, they achieve an even, but not tight, tension; it is controlled by drawing. A cover with corners without tongues is leveled immediately with threads. When the upholstery is stretched as it should be, the edges are fixed with an indent from the edge of the fabric of at least 5 cm. If the type of product allows, they are attached with a collar.

Features for different modules

The supporting frame of the sofa and the box are upholstered, as shown in fig. The box is on 3 sides, the back remains open. So it is necessary to ensure the strength of the connection between the backrest and the support, see above.

A pair of small trestles approx. 1 m, see fig. on the left, less than the width of the sofa, so as not to press the fabric. In extreme cases, the sofa blank is placed on a pair of stools. Tightening the back just won’t work, because. it is already attached to the base. Here, first, the fabric is attached along the line of interface with the box, from under the bottom they are pulled on tragus, like a sofa, and for tightening from the sides, small nails will have to be temporarily driven into the support. Well, the armrests can be turned as you like, there are no problems here.

Pillows

Separate cushions for the sofa are sewn in the same way as the blocks of a frameless chair:

The foam mat is sheathed with technical fabric;
The decorative cover is sewn inside out, the final (back bottom) seam is left unsewn;
2 zippers are sewn into the final seam, fastening towards each other;
Insert the foam block into the decor, fasten the zippers.

Tight fittings

Sewing several pillows is boring, and dust collects in the joints between them. A smooth sofa does not harmonize with any design. Therefore, sometimes the pillows on it are imitated with ties, see fig. 2 options are also possible here, for less and more dense fabrics. In the first case, loops are sewn on the edges of the cover under the tightenings, and the tightenings themselves are made when the cover is already fixed. According to the 2nd option, front wings (sleeves-tunnels) are stitched on the workpiece under the cords and an even stretch is achieved by pulling alternately the cords, then the tension threads of the cover.

beautiful scars

Another common way to decorate a sofa is decorative scars, see fig. Under them, you also need to sew backstage, but it is better to fill them with a flexible stranded electrical wire in PVC insulation with an outer diameter of 2-4 mm. Wire frames are formed on a template of nails driven into any (vertical can be) wooden surface right size, even in the wall of a barn or a dog house.

The ends are stripped of insulation by 25-35 mm, twisted with a British twist (British, British, see the figure on the left), the joint is soldered and, so that the vein of the wire that inadvertently crawls out does not stick into a sensitive place, it is wrapped with electrical tape. In the pillow, the joint, of course, should be at the back.

About one-piece cases

One-piece sofa cover - this is the aerobatics of wallpaper business. However, suddenly a shabby but strong sofa of mahogany or Karelian birch is found in the attic of the grandmother? Furniture restorers know their worth, but they love their work and respect intelligent connoisseurs. If you talk to them with knowledge of the matter, then they will take a moderate fee and put your soul into the work.

In such a case, as they say in "1001 nights", know that the basis for tightening the one-piece cover is the lines of the sofa's interface with the armrests and back. They are fixed with cords, as shown in Fig. Cords are brought out along the bisectors of flat corners (outer) and trisectors of triple (internal) along the grooves in the wooden frame and, for triple corners, through the holes in it. The cords are moderately pulled, their ends are fixed and then they straighten and pull the cover.

Backstage for cords can be, depending on the design, facial or purl. The last case is the most difficult, the backstage seam must be double and very even. To carry it out flawlessly, you need a professional 2-needle sewing machine.

Note: in general, the machine the main problem when upholstering a sofa. Before work, look at your specification and check if it sews jacquard weave fabrics with reinforced thread no thinner than #20. If not, you will have to rent or order upholstery at home. Or sew by hand.

And sooner?

As you can see, making a sofa and covering it is not a field to go over. Couldn't it be somehow quicker and simpler here, to the dacha, in new apartment? To sketch any pillows and collapse?

You can, the solution is called - a sofa made of pallets. From building pallets - a pallet - they generally do a lot of things, including furniture, because pallets are inexpensive seasoned wood of excellent quality.

The main thing here is taste and ingenuity. The simplest, most primitive garden sofa stack made of pallets can be made much more convenient using the same principle as an adirondack garden chair, on the left in fig. A little more difficult of them is to build a rustic-style retractable sofa bed, in the center. And having applied (with a tool, not to a glass) stronger, you can get a sofa, about which you can’t immediately say that it is from a decommissioned container, on the right. For example, see which sofa was made, it seems, by a completely inexperienced, but not at all stupid and not armless guy:

Video: do-it-yourself pallet sofa

It happens the same ... with sofas ...

Since we are talking about containers, then finally - a funny sofa. Comments are not required, what is in Fig. speaks for itself. And it is standing somewhere, sitting on it, lying ...