Using a drywall lift and creating a structure with your own hands. Devices for supporting plasterboard fastening to the ceiling Device for fastening plasterboard to the ceiling one

Drywall is one of the most popular materials for covering ceilings and walls. But at the same time, it is also one of the most inconvenient in single installation. Every master knows that it is extremely difficult to attach hanging sheets on your own, without the help of 1-2 helpers, due to the significant weight of the material, which when using solid panels ranges from 18 to 35 kg (depending on the type of gypsum board) and its extensive surface.

Therefore, in such situations, it is best to use a drywall lift.

What is this article about?

Why do you need a lift?

This device is designed for comfortable transportation of gypsum board panels to a specific installation point, lifting them and fixing them to the frame or directly to the plane of the ceiling and/or wall. The installer can only fasten the sheet with self-tapping screws, without applying significant effort to do this, that is, without holding the sheet and without inviting assistants.

In general, a drywall lift helps:

In covering frames with sheets of large dimensions;
When equipped with a level, it is possible to install panels without additional control;
In supplying and supporting other building materials to hard to reach places, in particular, frame elements.

Types of lifts

Its practical application depends on the type of design.

This is how they distinguish:

Wall lift with a vertical table for installing sheets on walls or partitions;
Ceiling with a vertical stand, for working on ceiling cladding;
Universal - with a rotary table to adapt to installation on different planes.

Where is it used?

The standard device can be used in different rooms:

In an ordinary room;
On the balconies;
In narrow corridors;
At large commercial, public or industrial facilities.

Where to get a lift

Getting a drywall lift is easy. It can be:

Buy - which is beneficial for professional finishers who regularly carry out similar work on sites;
Rent - for those who do a one-time ceiling on a small area;
Do it yourself - again, this is suitable for master finishers or those owners who decided to twist the gypsum board themselves on a surface with a significant area.

How to choose a mechanism

When choosing a device for carrying and installing material in a store, you should take into account some features and capabilities of the units.

Lifting weight - which for regular installation should be at least 30-50 kg;
The lifting height is at least 4-5 meters, which, as a rule, is sufficient for installation in ordinary houses and apartments, where the ceiling height rarely reaches even these parameters;
Material of manufacture - it is advisable to ignore models with unreliable plastic elements;
The shape of the lifting base platform - it is preferable that it be N-shaped, since such bases are considered the most stable;
Dual-function lifting for both horizontal and vertical vertical planes- if the master considers this factor necessary. You can only buy a car with a top lift;
Possibility of convenient transportation of the model. Most units are equipped with rollers for easy movement, as well as a collapsible design;
Control - can be carried out by jacking manually or by electric drive. Here, the choice again depends on the working area and the regularity of installation.

In the market of construction/finishing materials and tools, a lift for installing drywall is not uncommon. It can be purchased at almost any specialty store. Making a choice in favor of a particular brand is very simple. After all, all branded models are exclusive and focused on the specific needs of installers.

The most popular devices from:

Knauf Corporation. Among those selling out is a lift for plasterboard panels - “Plattenheber”. The device allows you to secure sheets in both horizontal and vertical positions;
Premos Company. If you choose a professional drywall lift, you should pay attention to this brand. The company’s models deliver material to a height of up to 4.5 meters, and also cope well with loads of up to 100 kg, allowing you to work not only with gypsum boards, but also with heavier panels;
"Edma" are multifunctional models with all their mobility. So the gypsum board lift from this French brand is comfortable to use even in cramped conditions.

DIY lift

If the purchase is impractical for some reason, you can make a lift yourself. There are all the necessary drawings for this on the Internet.

You also need to know the basic elements that make up this device:

A tripod is the base on which the entire structure rests. Often equipped with caster wheels with locking components;
Telescopic type tripod - made from sections of profile pipe inserted into each other. Recommended sections - 8, 6, 4 cm;
Rotary table stand. Mounted on an H-shaped base;
The winch is an external beam, purchased separately, since assembling it yourself is problematic;
As additional components, a mounting platform and an electric drive can be installed on the mechanism.

When making a device yourself, you need to carefully consider its design and diagram it on a sheet of paper.

A simple assembly step consists of several installation steps:

To manufacture a tripod element, it is necessary to create a base from a 6x6 cm profile pipe. The tripod consists of 3 elements, one of them must be welded, and the other two must have a rotating mechanism; they are mounted to the central rack element. All 3 legs of the tripod are equipped with strong roller wheels;
Then, you need to weld the legs with braces sawn off with a grinder to the base. If desired, they can be made folding or even removable;
The tripod is ready, you can start creating a retractable tripod;
To do this you need to cut profile pipes- 8×8 cm, 6×6 cm, 4×4 cm. They are inserted into each other, with padding in the form of plug elements. Such an element can be square or round. The telescopic pipe is installed on the central post;
A mount for a stand is mounted at the end of the upper tube. It can also be of a removable type;
Next, the table itself is made. For it, you initially need to create an N-shaped platform. Its middle lintel should be of a through type, for retractable supports necessary for volumetric, rigid support of sheets;
The supports are welded into the shape of the letter “T” and secured using quick-clamping mechanisms;
At the final stage, it is necessary to secure the winch tightly. As a rule, the mount is an outrigger beam with braces.

Mini lift

You don’t always want or have the time to tinker with making a capital lift, so you can also make a mini-fixture.

It is made from flat timber with dimensions of 40×20 cm, the height varies according to needs. The width must be at least 90 cm.

You need 2 such beams. They are connected to each other using self-tapping screws in the shape of the letter “T”;
From the same timber, bridge elements-kerchiefs are made, connecting the vertical and horizontal parts of the “T” in the likeness of a mop, at an angle of 90 degrees;
Several such elements are made and they are fixed to the base.

The mini-fix is ready. It is much less convenient to use than a conventional lift; it rather serves a supporting function, but it is easier to work with than climbing with sheets onto sawhorses every time a new panel is needed.

Installation of plasterboard sheets requires at least two pairs of hands, since these building materials are heavy and large size. If it is not possible to attract assistants during work, then a special drywall lift is used, which you can make with your own hands or buy at a hardware store.

Peculiarities

A lift for plasterboard sheets is a device that allows you to install cardboard at a certain height and fix it in the desired position, without much effort. The main advantage of the device is its ease of use and significant time savings when working with it. building material.

Photo - working with a spacer

Why do you need a lift?:

For covering finished metal frame large sheets of drywall. The design of the device allows you to install materials of any size on it, this is very convenient even when working alone. You simply lay the sheet on the support frame and lift it to the desired height, fixing it at the frame itself;
Marking the ceiling and corners. Very often the masters independent work The markings are redone several times, because from different angles the visibility of the flow or corner plane changes somewhat. If you understand the laser level lift, you can ensure the perfect frame installation line the first time;
Installation of profiles in hard-to-reach areas. Simply, instead of drywall, profile guides are laid on the lift table, which rise to the pre-made markings.

There are several types lifting devices, they are classified by area of use: wall, ceiling and universal. The main difference is the location of the desktop. For a wall one it is installed vertically, for a ceiling one - horizontally, and for a universal one it can change its angle depending on the type of work being performed.

Photo - homemade device

Device design

The lift consists of a telescopic stand, which changes its length depending on needs. She may be square section or round. Next structural element is the chassis through which the device moves and is installed in a certain position. Often the chassis is represented by a pipe with a cross-section of ¾ inches.

The most important part is the spacer table, on which the drywall or profile is installed directly. It looks like a frame for a sheet, on the sides it is equipped with pipes of various sections (depending on the use and type). Also, any telescopic lift for installation and drywall sheets is equipped with a winch that controls the lifting of the rack. It is connected to the drum and can be wound in two rows or in one. Many home craftsmen claim that if the winch rotates in one row, then the telescopic stand is lifted faster.

How to do

A homemade lift-spacer for drywall is no less effective than vocational adaptation(for example, “Premos” or “FIT”). Plus, it can be made at home. Before starting work, you need to prepare drawings.

Photo - drawing of the lift

The support according to this scheme can be made from wood and metal profiles - this is very convenient, since no additional costs are required. You only need to consider the costs of fasteners and a winch. All parts are connected to each other with bolts.

The lift can be made simple (disposable - for working in only one room) and reusable (it is suitable for different ceiling heights). It should be noted that the first option will be easier to convert to another room than to construct the second.

Step-by-step instruction how to make a lift for filing drywall on a frame:

If you have a professional welding inverter and a drawing of a metal telescopic lift for drywall, you can make a more complex, but practical universal one. To work, you will need several pipes for the telescopic leg - square or round. In the diagrams below they are represented by rolled metal with sections 80×80×2, 60×60×2, 40×40×2 mm. 40×25×2 and 30×20×2 pipes were used for the table.

Photo - professional wall lift

How to do something yourself, with your own hands - home craftsman website

DIY installation of drywall on the ceiling

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How to decorate a ceiling with plasterboard with your own hands

So, installation of drywall on the ceiling. Lifting and securing drywall sheets to the ceiling is not easy, even if you work with a partner. As a rule, this requires the use of various devices, for example, mop-shaped stands to support the sheet from below or something like that. But it is almost impossible to cope with the work alone without special lifting devices. We are talking about a device with which you can lift a plasterboard sheet and fix it in a horizontal position, bringing it as close as possible to the ceiling.

One of possible options structures for lifting plasterboard sheets (GKL) and the principle of its operation are shown in Fig. a-g. It is constructed quite simply - from ordinary construction trestles, to the legs of which two high posts are rigidly attached.

A light platform is hinged on the top of these racks with a stop at its bottom, on which a sheet of drywall is laid. This stage of preparation for starting work is shown in Fig. A. The process of lifting a sheet of plasterboard laid on a turntable is shown in Fig. god

A distinctive feature of this design is that it provides the ability to lift in several stages, which is very important for safe work alone.

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To do this, two different-high folding stands are freely suspended from below the platform, which, during lifting, are lowered under the influence of their weight and alternately occupy a vertical position - first the shorter one, and then, at the second stage of the lifting, the longer one. You can temporarily rest the platform on the vertical stand to safely change the grip of both hands and continue lifting in a more comfortable position.

Device for installing drywall on the ceiling by one person

Both intermediate stopping moments are shown in Fig. b and c. The height of the first and second stands should be selected based on the following considerations. It is advisable to make the first stop when the lower end of the platform is at the level of the worker’s waist or slightly higher. As a rule, it is in this position that it is convenient to change the grip of both hands in order to continue the lift.

A second stop should be provided when the platform is at shoulder or head level. It is more convenient to raise the platform higher (to the ceiling) without climbing up a stepladder, but by holding the second, longer stand with both hands while standing on the floor. This lifting option is more convenient and safe.

In the highest position, when the platform is raised to the ceiling, it is fixed with a strip prepared in advance and cut to length (see Fig. d).

However, for reliability, it is better to additionally attach the free end of the platform with at least one self-tapping screw to the sheathing on the ceiling. Having secured the platform, they install the scaffolding and proceed to the main part of the work - attaching sheets of drywall to the sheathing on the ceiling.

To do this, the sheet is shifted so that it takes its proper place on the ceiling, temporarily pressed against the sheathing with wedges and secured around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws. This is how all the sheets of drywall are mounted one by one, each time moving the lifting device to a new place.

To cover the ceiling of small rooms, for example, bathrooms, hallways or corridors, where gypsum boards of non-standard size are used, it is better to make the lifting and turning platform smaller in size so that it is more convenient to handle in cramped conditions.

It is advisable to make the main part of the device - trestles with high stands - universal. Any construction trestle, which is usually used to construct scaffolding, with a height of 0.6-0.8 m and a distance between the leg supports of 0.8-0.9 m, is suitable for this.

The racks are best made from a standard G1-shaped profile and a wooden strip inserted into it (to give greater rigidity). When attaching vertical posts, it is advisable to move them slightly back from the longitudinal axis of the trestles so that they are located closer to the wall - approximately 10-15 cm (see Fig. a). This is especially important when working in small spaces.

The height of the racks should not be set to the ceiling; it is better to install small triangular brackets with a “shoulder of 10-15 cm” from the bottom of the lift-and-turn platform (see photo). This will make it much easier to constantly move the lifting device during operation.

As for the turntable, you should strive to make it as light as possible, but at the same time strong and rigid.

A metal U-shaped profile, which is used for installing drywall, is ideal for this. It is also advisable to include inside the profile wooden slats. The free opening of the platform should not be unnecessarily cluttered with longitudinal or transverse crossbars, gussets and other reinforcing elements. The rigidity of the platform should be ensured mainly by reliable ligation of the supporting rails in its corner connections, since any reinforcing elements blocking the free opening will interfere with screwing in the screws when attaching the gypsum board to the sheathing on the ceiling.

The device for lifting gypsum boards shown in the photo has been repeatedly tested in a variety of conditions and, despite its simplicity, has become an indispensable assistant, especially when you have to work alone.

And in cases where it is possible to work together, installation productivity plasterboard ceilings increases several times. In this case, no special skills are required from the partner. The process of attaching gypsum boards to the ceiling is also simplified, since there is no need to additionally support the sheet from below.

Plasterboard on the ceiling: do-it-yourself installation

Photo on the left: A device with a lift-and-turn platform for installing plasterboard sheets on the ceiling.

On right. To work in small rooms, where non-standard gypsum boards are used for ceiling cladding, the lifting and turning platform can be made smaller.

At the bottom: Diagram and principle of operation of a device for lifting and installing plasterboard sheets on the ceiling: a - initial position of the device - installation of the sheet on the lifting and turning platform; b - the first stage of lifting (the platform is fixed and rests on the first folding stand); c - the second stage of lifting (the platform is fixed and rests on the second folding stand); d - final stage of lifting - the platform is fixed in working position.

1. The first stage of lifting - the platform is fixed on the first folding stand. 2. In order not to waste time, it is advisable to apply all marking lines for screwing in self-tapping screws on the sheet at the bottom, before installing it on the platform. 3. On final stage It is more convenient to lift the platform not with a stepladder, but by standing on the floor and holding the second, longer stand with both hands. 4 . For reliability, it is better to additionally attach the free end of the platform with a self-tapping screw to the sheathing on the ceiling. 5. Collapsible scaffolding. 6. The plasterboard sheet is shifted so that it takes its proper place on the ceiling, and is temporarily pressed against the sheathing with wedges.

Note: Ceiling - questions and answers

Before puttying, I leveled the ceiling using a building level, and it turned out that in one room the difference was more than 5 cm, and in the other - less than 5 cm. Tell me how to level the surfaces?

Maxim Vorobiev, Minsk

If the ceiling drops by 5 cm, you can install a plasterboard structure. Also suitable suspension system and suspended ceilings.

If the difference is less than 5 cm, then the ceiling is plastered, then puttied with special mixtures, preparing it for painting. When the difference is only 2 cm, a reinforced mesh is fixed, then everything is puttied. If the difference between the ceiling levels is insignificant, it is sealed with leveling and finishing putties in several stages.

How to choose ceiling tiles and fix them correctly?

Nadezhda Teplyakova, Smolesk region. Ceilings are tiled different rooms- with a base made of concrete, chipboard, plasterboard, etc.

There are tiles with a self-adhesive base, as well as with the front side covered with a polymer layer. This material does not fade in the sun, but it can be painted with acrylic or water-based paint. But plastic tiles with a protective layer are not painted.

Generally ceiling tiles easy to clean, it provides additional sound and heat insulation, and does not grow mold. However, keep in mind: this material is flammable and it is difficult to remove soot and greasy stains from it. When installing such tiles, visible seams remain.

When buying tiles for the ceiling, inspect them carefully to check their integrity. I advise you to buy about 10% more than the calculated quantity, because some will end up as scraps or still turn out to be of poor quality. Before gluing, this material must be left in the room for some time to adapt to temperature and humidity, otherwise it may become deformed.

Clean the ceiling, level it if necessary, wash off the whitewash, and prime the base. Start gluing from the middle of the ceiling to maintain proportionality. Apply glue to the center and edges of the tile. Then press it firmly to the surface and hold it there for a while with a clean cloth.

Seal the seams with putty, sealant, and then paint over with water-based emulsion. After this, glue the ceiling plinth.

How to deal with old stains on the ceiling caused by leaks?

Anatoly Kus, Minsk region.

These areas require special treatment. First, thoroughly clean and wash, and then wait until completely dry. If there was fungus before, treat with a biocide solution. And do not wash it off under any circumstances! Immediately after this, coat the ceiling with a universal blocking primer, which will not allow stains to show through the putty and paint.

How to hang a chandelier on a plasterboard ceiling

Drywall is a universal building material and can be used with equal success for arranging walls, floors and ceilings. However, meeting the requirements stated by the manufacturer is possible only if the recommendations regarding the transportation, storage and installation of plasterboard sheets are fully followed. In addition, you should clearly understand the aesthetic design methodology of already assembled structures in order to ensure not only their mechanical strength, but also their visual appeal.

To one of important issues The final arrangement of the ceiling includes the installation of lighting equipment. And if we got acquainted with the technology for installing spotlights in previous materials, today we would like to analyze in detail how to hang a chandelier on a plasterboard ceiling.

Features of chandelier installation

Of course, before fixing lighting fixture For gypsum boards, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic installation recommendations:

It is advisable to determine the choice of a chandelier and the method of its fastening in advance (even before installing the suspended ceiling system);
Proposed installation location ceiling chandelier it is advisable to provide an additional profile or embedded structure;
In case of fixing the chandelier directly to plasterboard sheets you should stock up on specialized fasteners (butterflies, folding spring dowels);
All work should be carried out taking into account safety requirements (use of reliable scaffolding, de-energizing the electrical circuit, use of specialized personal protective equipment and diagnostics).

Direct installation of the chandelier to the gypsum board

Considering the relatively high mechanical properties of drywall, lighting devices can be attached directly to the body of the material. However, before choosing such a method, certain limitations should be taken into account.

Firstly, according to technical documentation manufacturer, correctly installed gypsum boards are capable of carrying a load weighing up to 6 kg per square meter. Therefore, only light-weight devices can be hung in the presented manner.

Secondly, when calculating the loads on plasterboard sheets, you should take into account not only the weight of the chandelier, but also possible deformations that may occur as a result of the operation of the device (replacing lamps, children's games, etc.).

Therefore, taking into account the above, it is recommended to attach chandeliers directly to plasterboard sheets only in extreme cases (for example, when completely replacing a lighting fixture).

The very method of installing a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling in this case is not particularly complicated and involves the use of special fasteners for gypsum boards.

That is, first a hole is drilled in the drywall with a diameter equal to the diameter of the fastening. After that, a spring dowel or “butterfly” is inserted into the interceiling space and high-quality fixation of the fasteners is carried out. Why the spring dowel is tightened with a nut with an enlarged washer, and the “butterfly is simply tightened with a self-tapping screw (until it clicks). Moreover, both the dowel and the butterfly can be supplied with a hook or a pin, so by choosing any of the fasteners, you can attach a hook or mounting strip to the drywall, and subsequently fix the lighting device to them. Moreover, the technology for electrical switching of a chandelier in this case will not differ in any way from the standard method of installing chandeliers.

Standard technology for fixing a chandelier

In 90% of cases, the chandelier is not fixed to finishing material, and screw the mounting bracket or hook to a pre-mounted profile (through the drywall). In view of this, it is advisable to take into account the basic recommendations for standard installation of lighting equipment:

The mounting profile-mortgage should be located at the same level with the frame elements so as not to deform the ceiling during installation of the hook or mounting strip;
Fixing the embedded profile to the base base of the ceiling should ensure that the chandelier is kept suspended;
To install the hook, it is enough to use one mounting profile, but when the console is supposed to be installed, it is advisable to take care of installing two mounting profiles, to each of which a mounting strip will subsequently be fixed;
Searching for the location of the profiles can be done using a magnet;
During the fastening process, self-tapping screws for gypsum boards should be used, taking into account the length (at least 15 mm of the self-tapping screw must be screwed into the frame);
For ease of work, the conductor outlet location should be equipped with a special non-conductive bushing.

How to hang a heavy chandelier on drywall

In a situation where the mass of the chandelier exceeds 6 kg, the listed methods cannot be used, because even such a structure attached to the profiles can cause their deformation and destruction of everything suspended ceiling. Therefore, in this case, it is better to give preference to a collet-spacer fastening and do not fix the lighting device to suspended structure, but directly to the base base of the ceiling, that is, to the existing ceiling.

The method of installing a chandelier in this case is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Using a hammer drill with an extended drill, in concrete ceiling a recess equal to the diameter of the collet is drilled;
The collet is tightly inserted into the resulting recess manually (using a hammer is not permissible), for which the collet spacer is first screwed onto the retaining pin by 2-3 turns;
After the collet is inserted into the recess, using a wrench, the pin is screwed into the mounting hole, as a result of which the collet clamp expands and prevents the entire structure from falling out.
At the end of the work, the quality of installation of the fasteners is checked (for which you can even hang on it), and a hook or mounting bracket is fixed to the bottom of the stud, ensuring complete fastening of the chandelier to the ceiling.

From all of the above, it can be noted that before hanging a chandelier on drywall, it is advisable to choose the most acceptable option based on design features the ceiling and the lighting fixture itself.

With the technique self-installation For chandeliers on gypsum board ceilings, we recommend watching the following video:

If you liked the material, I will be grateful if you recommend it to friends or leave a useful comment.

How to install a plasterboard ceiling alone

Decide with purpose - why the design is needed in the first place: for simple alignment or masking of communications. In the first case, it is enough to mark at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling, in the second - preferably lower, in order to leave enough space for cables, pipes or insulation.

draw up a repair plan;
calculate the number of sheets, profiles, fasteners;
purchase the necessary material;
choose the right tools;
clean the ceiling surface;
make markings according to the diagram.

Professionals know several secrets on how to properly install drywall on the ceiling. For example, they recommend fastening the panels so that their joints do not coincide. This means that the first row consists of whole sheets, the second - of cut sheets, perhaps vice versa.

We fasten the panels to the longitudinal and transverse profiles with self-tapping screws, the pitch between which is no more than 20 cm. At the junction of two sheets, we shift the fastening slightly, increasing strength. The main parts will have straight sides: We cut the leaf with a knife, then break it by hand. It is better to cut a complex element with a jigsaw or hacksaw. Installing the panels one by one, we cover the entire ceiling.

To protect the planks from sagging and make them more rigid, we use hangers. We attach straight hangers directly to the ceiling, bending the free ends. In addition to long longitudinal slats, we also install transverse ones in order to install fragile plasterboard on the ceiling with your own hands and along the short side.

Tips on how to screw a sheet of drywall to the ceiling alone

When dividing the sheets in half, make the cut efficiently and evenly. Otherwise, you will later encounter a lot of inconsistencies during the installation process. For a quality cut, use a straight edge. In its absence, the building level will do. If you live on the upper floors apartment building, then the first thing you will encounter is the question of how to bring a sheet of drywall into the apartment.

This material is 1.2 m wide and 2.5 m high. And regardless of its thickness, it does not fit into an elevator, even a freight one. If we talk about climbing staircases, this option is also inconvenient, since the material barely fits on the landing.

Lifting will damage the corners of the drywall sheets, or leave marks on your neighbors' doors.

use a special mounting belt to attach a screwdriver or drill;
use attachments with a magnetic tip, this will simplify some tasks;
When choosing a power tool, give preference to a battery-powered screwdriver rather than a corded one.
There is a pocket for screws in the mounting belt, use it.

The support resembles a mop. The width of the crossbar is about 90 centimeters, and the length is 10 centimeters greater than the height to the frame profiles. You will need 2 such supports. In addition to them, a block measuring from the floor to the frame is used. If such an installation solution is beyond your capabilities, then installing drywall alone will not be possible without supports.

This method is especially relevant if you use not half a sheet, but a whole one. In this case, you need to make them and apply them. Often you have to carry drywall slabs by hand.

It is worth noting that doing this alone is inconvenient; a sheet of drywall has considerable weight and area. Sheets are usually transported by two workers, but even with such transportation to the floor, the sheet can be broken. There are special systems for carrying sheets of material, for example: As you can see, there is nothing difficult in installing a plasterboard lift; all you need to do is prepare the material in advance and be patient. Further work is performed in the same order. Although the process will take a lot of time, this will allow all the elements to be glued extremely securely.

Before starting work, you need to think through all the steps to avoid problems. Screwing the plates is very difficult; this will require auxiliary devices. The easiest way to control the plane in which the frame will be mounted is to stretch a thread or cord from corner to corner of the room, at the level where the horizontal structural elements should be located. By lowering each of them until it touches the cord, you can arrange them all in the same plane without distortions. There is an easier way - take not standard drywall, but thin one.

A material with a thickness of only 6 millimeters is used especially for bends. It is often called “arched”. The thickness does not at all affect its strength - in the middle, this type of gypsum board has special reinforcement that does not allow it to break.

But material of this thickness bends much better.

How to lift a sheet of drywall alone

For covering plasterboard ceilings, the construction industry offers a variety of lifts - factory-made or home-made, allowing the worker to carry out the installation alone. Which option to choose depends on the weight of the building materials and the frequency of use. Installation work can be carried out alone. But to lift the gypsum board and hold it for fastening with self-tapping screws - not an easy task. Uncut drywall weighs about 30 kg, and the large area makes it difficult to grip comfortably.

Let's figure out how to lift a sheet of drywall to the ceiling alone. Drywall is a lightweight, environmentally friendly material with high strength, indispensable when you need to create a flat ceiling with levels and lighting. Drywall is produced in sheets 2.5 - 4.8 m long, 1.2 - 1.3 m wide, 6.5 - 24 mm thick, and to manually lift it to the ceiling, two or more people are required.

If you don’t have a device for lifting drywall to the ceiling in your arsenal, you can make it yourself using improvised materials. This requires work experience welding machine and Bulgarian. Components for the device can be purchased at hardware stores.

Here are instructions describing the installation of a plasterboard ceiling. It is quite detailed and understandable even to those who have not encountered gypsum boards. All stages are considered - from design to rough finishing. In addition to standard techniques, you will learn some tricks to save time or money. At the beginning of the article there are lists necessary tools and materials, as well as recommended conditions for such work. Then a brief procedure is given. And from the next section, which is called “Plan and calculations”, it begins directly detailed description each stage.

Where does the installation of plasterboard on the ceiling begin?

From wall decoration. The fact is that correct installation plasterboard on the ceiling is ideal. So before starting ceiling work, the walls must be prepared for finishing(plastered and puttied). Or at least covered with plasterboard.

The future ceiling also needs to be prepared. Remove old finishing if she gets in the way. Secure all communications to the ceiling - wires, air ducts, pipes.

The rules for installing a plasterboard ceiling are almost the same as for. There are some difficulties. But overall, the idea is worth it, even if this is your first time encountering gypsum boards. Of course, to install plasterboard ceilings, it is advisable that you have at least some skill in handling power tools and have some physical strength.

What is needed to install a plasterboard ceiling?

You will have to work with long and relatively heavy materials. You will definitely need an assistant.

The tools you will need are:

water or laser level;
pencil;
marker;
metal scissors (a grinder will do);
perforator;
hammer;
a screwdriver and several PH2 Phillips bits.

The list should be supplemented with tools and devices that will make your work much easier:

Chalk shnu
Special bit for drywall with limiter

An ordinary building level would also be useful. If you don't have a hydraulic level or a laser level and have nowhere to get them, you can get by with a regular one.

Trick: how to do without a laser level

Secure a regular level with electrical tape to a long, perfectly straight bar;
place the bar on a known horizontal surface;
If the bubble is not exactly in the middle, slide a thin wedge under the appropriate end of the level. Try to perfectly align the bubble;
rotate the bar 180°. Make sure that in this position the bubble is exactly in the middle.

So instead of a short and inaccurate level, you got a long and accurate one.

You will also need finishing tools. The list will depend on the type of finish, but in any case the following are necessary:

spatulas - narrow and wide;
bucket (or other convenient container).

It is advisable to have a drill attachment () for mixing construction mixtures.

A simple bench will help a lot. Forget about stepladders - working on them is inconvenient. Make a simple bench out of boards or roll up a simple bench out of chipboard. Calculate its height so that there is 10-15 cm above your head to the future ceiling surface.

List of materials:

guide profile;
ceiling profile;
single-level connectors (“crabs”);
longitudinal connectors (if longitudinal profiles longer than 3 meters are required);
straight hangers (for heights up to 20 cm);
anchor suspensions + rods (for heights over 20 cm);
dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 mm
or wood screws for wooden walls and ceilings (black, with a rare thread pitch);
self-tapping screws with a press washer 4.2 x 13 mm (silver, without drill head);
(black, with frequent thread pitch)
and the drywall itself;
and ;
and serpyanka.

How many materials will you need? In order to have enough, but not have any surplus, you need an accurate calculation. How to do it, read in the section “Scheme and calculations”.

Work plan

We will conditionally divide the installation of gypsum boards on the ceiling into five large stages. Next, each section of the article will describe these stages in full detail.

Scheme and calculations;
marking;
installation of profiles and hangers;
installation of drywall;
finishing/

By measuring the room and drawing up a diagram, you will get a clear idea of how much materials will be needed.

The technology of installing drywall on the ceiling requires care. To ensure that the structure does not warp, it is necessary to accurately mark the perimeter of the room.

Now let's count the number of profiles. The technology for plasterboard ceilings is as follows: first, a guide is fixed around the perimeter metallic profile. Ceiling profiles are inserted into it and attached to it. Additionally, the profiles are attached with hangers to the ceiling.

Technology for installing plasterboard ceilings

Important: guide profile installation rules

There should be no gaps between the guide profile sections. In the corner, one profile is inserted into the other until it stops. On one plane, profile sections are joined into a joint. If there is an outer corner, then one of the profile sections should stick out 27mm. In this way, a continuous belt is obtained from the guide profile.

To count the number of dowel nails, focus on the fastening approximately every 40-50 cm.

Long sections of the ceiling profile are installed exactly every 50 cm. Plasterboard slabs are placed across them. Thus, the edges of each sheet will lie clearly in the middle of the profile. No edge should hang in the air! The edges adjacent to the walls will be attached directly to the guide profile.

Jumpers are inserted across the longitudinal profiles. These are sections of the same ceiling profile, installed in increments of 60 cm. The principle is the same: all edges of each gypsum board sheet should fall in the middle of the profile. The middle of the sheet should also be secured. The length of the lintels = 50 cm minus the width of the ceiling profile (60 mm), that is, 44 cm.

Suspensions are installed along the entire length of the longitudinal profiles in increments of 60 cm.

For clarity, draw all the profiles on your diagram so as not to make mistakes in the calculation. Each intersection of the ceiling profiles is one crab and three metal screws (with a press washer).

Self-tapping screws for drywall are screwed in increments of 15 cm. Just take the total length of all profiles in centimeters and divide it by 15.

Buy putty at the rate of 1 kg of ready-made mixture per 1 m2, approximately 3 kg per sheet. A kilogram of the finished mixture, not the powder.

Materials should be purchased with a small margin - about 20%. Quickly calculate what you need using a calculator.

Marking

So, we begin the actual installation of the ceiling plasterboard.

Typically, plasterboard on the ceiling is mounted strictly horizontally. Arm yourself with a level and get ready to draw horizontal line along the entire perimeter of the room. You can limit yourself to short strokes every half meter. The main thing is that the ends of the markings meet exactly at the same level.

The correct placement of plasterboard sheets on the ceiling is important

To avoid buying tools

There is no point in buying rather expensive equipment for a one-time job. Tools such as a laser level, hammer drill and screwdriver can be rented.

You can draw a line with a pencil along a long straight bar. A piece of ceiling profile is suitable for this purpose. You can put marks only in the corners, then drive nails into them and pull the lace. But it’s even easier to stretch a chalk cord between these marks and slam it on the wall - you will be left with a perfect, straight and clearly visible line.

Using this marking you will need to install a guide profile. Remember that the finishing surface of the ceiling will be about a centimeter lower.

Next, you need to mark the installation locations of the ceiling profiles. Place marks directly on the wall, just below the guide profile attachment line. They should be visible even after installing gypsum board sheets. Apply strokes in 50 cm increments for installing long ceiling profiles, in 60 cm increments for lintels.

It remains to mark the junction of the longitudinal profile with the jumpers. Draw on metal with a marker. Place strokes every 60 centimeters on the longitudinal profiles. You can do this even before you install them in the guide profiles. Mark the ends where you started: they should all end up on one side of the room.

Installation of profiles and hangers

Drill the guide profile with a 6 mm drill bit in increments of about 40 cm. In principle, you can punch it with a hammer drill directly at the installation site. When drilling into a wall, hold the profile tightly. Make sure that it does not move relative to the markings.

Through drilling of the guide profile is allowed

If you have plasterboard walls, then you need to imagine at what distance from the wall the drywall is located. The working part of the dowel (with a notch) must sit completely in the concrete.

On walls longer than 3 m, be sure to “splice” the guide profiles by inserting one into the other. They also need to be joined in the corners. Then install the longitudinal ceiling profiles, inserting their ends into the guide profile.

Trick: how to insert a ceiling profile into the guide more easily

Use scissors to cut off the corners at the ends of the ceiling profile. This will make it much easier to insert it into the guide, especially if you are working alone.

It is best to install the hangers before you secure the longitudinal profiles and install the lintels. You just need to make sure that the profiles are exactly in place: they will guide you where to place the hangers.

For fastening into concrete, a dowel-nail is usually used. You can also take it - it holds much more tightly, but it is also much more difficult to dismantle.

Concrete floors in old apartments are treacherous. It often happens that a drill, having traveled a little less than a centimeter, falls into the void. You can deal with such surprises in different ways:

take a very long dowel-nail;
attach the suspension in another place;
Instead of a dowel-nail, drive in a wooden plug and secure the suspension with a self-tapping screw.

It is better to attach the direct suspension not to the outer holes (which are in the petals), but to the adjacent ones, located closer to the middle. Attaching it by the petals is, of course, more convenient: it’s easier to get to them when the frame is already assembled. But this method will allow the ceiling to sag a little.

You can use direct hangers even when the ceiling height from the ceiling is more than 20 cm. You just need to use two instead of one hanger.

But it is much more convenient to use an anchor suspension. The rod of the anchor suspension is attached to the ceiling in the same way as a direct suspension, through an eyelet previously bent 90° with pliers. Please note that you only need to bend the eyelet itself. The rest of the bar should remain perfectly straight.

Where to install hangers? Above each of the long ceiling profiles, in increments of about 50-60 cm. They should not fall on the junction of the longitudinal and transverse profiles! Refer to the previously applied markings.

Direct suspension

After nailing straight hangers, bend the legs 90° down. Do this carefully - after bending, the legs should remain perfectly straight.

When all the hangers are nailed, install the longitudinal profiles according to the markings (every 50 cm). Secure them with self-tapping screws through the guide profile, one at each end.

Screwing screws without a drill is not that difficult. The main thing is to use a suitable bat (marked “PH2”). Press firmly on the screw (but without fanaticism) and turn at medium speed. After a second or two, the sharp tip will pierce the metal, and then the self-tapping screw can be screwed in without difficulty.

Cut the jumpers. Please note that the length of the outer jumpers will not be 44, but 47 cm. Attach the jumpers with crabs.

Ceiling crab for connecting cross profiles

The crabs are snapped on top. They have special petals with holes for fastening with self-tapping screws to the profile. Bend the petals and attach the crab with one screw to the long profile. Before doing this, make sure that it has not moved relative to the mark. Screw two more screws through the same petals into each jumper.

How to save money on crabs

Make the jumpers 6 centimeters longer. Cut the side flaps 3cm off each end. Screw the remaining middle part with a self-tapping screw directly to the long ceiling profile from below. Don’t be confused by the fact that the head of the screw sticks out a little: this will not be a serious obstacle to the tight fit of the drywall.

Options for connecting profiles without using a crab in the photo:

With such savings, the rigidity of the frame will suffer somewhat. Of course, the ceiling won't collapse; It will just be a little less smooth and durable.

Do not rush to screw straight hangers to the profile. The problem is that profiles 2 m or more in length will inevitably sag. Especially if you used an extension cord (longitudinal connector).

We eliminate the sagging using a cord stretched tightly across all longitudinal profiles:

screw one screw into the guide profile at each end of the room, in the middle of the wall;
tie a string to them and pull it tightly;
you can see that the long profiles “lie” on the lace. Before securing with hangers, lift them so that they hang 1-2 millimeters above the lace.

When all the hangers and all the jumpers are screwed to the longitudinal profiles, the frame is ready. We proceed to installing drywall on the ceiling.

Installation of drywall sheets

But first you need to do insulation (if in your case it is necessary). Eat different ways insulate the ceiling. Perhaps the most convenient is mineral wool insulation. Roll insulation is simply placed on top of the frame. Wear gloves, goggles and a respirator - dust from mineral wool irritates even the skin, not to mention the mucous membranes.

And now you can screw the gypsum board sheets. Start from the edge where the whole sheet fits. Place the sheet across the long profiles, close to the walls. If you did everything correctly and accurately, then the edges of the sheet along the entire length will be exactly in the middle of the ceiling profiles.

Screw the sheet to all profiles, both at the edges and in the middle. Along the edge, the screws should go approximately every 15 cm, in other places you can increase the pitch to 20-25 cm.

How to attach sheets

GCR has a front side and a back side. On the front side there is a rounded chamfer along the longitudinal edges of the sheet and there is a slight unevenness. The reverse side is always flat– for a tight fit to the surface.

Screw in the screws ten millimeters from the edge. You need to retreat at least 15 mm from the cut edge. Retreat at least five centimeters from the corners!

The screw head should be slightly recessed into the surface of the slab. Do this carefully: the self-tapping screw is quite easy to tighten, especially if you lack experience. In such work, a special bit for drywall with a limiter is very helpful.

You can see where the profiles go by the marks on the wall. However, you can draw out a sheet of drywall in advance, even before you lift it and start attaching it. Continue the longitudinal row of sheets, end to end, without gaps. It is difficult to do this work without an assistant.

Devices for not holding a sheet of drywall

Make a support. Take a board slightly longer than the height of the ceiling, screw a piece of board about a meter long across it to form the letter “T”. Reinforce with two planks diagonally. This mop-like device is used by craftsmen all over the world when they make installation of plasterboard on the ceiling.

Methods for installing a gypsum board ceiling without an assistant:

Using the lift

Homemade option holding the sheet on the ceiling

The next row starts with half a sheet. The technology requires that the seams between the sheets do not intersect crosswise. Correct location slabs resemble brickwork.

How to cut drywall sheets

With a knife. It can be clerical. Mark exactly the middle and make a cut along the ruler. You probably still have a piece of the ceiling profile left - use it as a ruler. The cut can be shallow; it is enough to cut through the paper. Place the same profile under the cut or place the sheet on the edge of the table and break it. All that remains is to cut the paper from the back side.

If you need to cut a very narrow strip, it is easier to use a hacksaw.

The cut edges need to be chamfered additionally. This is necessary for high-quality putty. Using the same knife, cut off a few millimeters from the front side at an angle of about 45°. Precision is not required at this stage. Do not touch the factory longitudinal edges - their chamfer is already rounded.

Final finishing

Prime the ceiling with a roller or large brush. Using a small brush, carefully go over the seams.

After the primer has dried, apply tape. It is glued only to the junction of two factory seams, as well as to the corners. Immediately after this you can.

Mix a small amount of putty. At this stage, you only need to cover the seams and recesses from the screws. Apply the putty with a narrow spatula, then level it with a wide one.

According to the technology, the seams need to be puttied twice. So you will have to wait for the putty to dry, then apply a second, thin layer. But before that, be sure to scrape off all the burrs with a spatula (just don’t use much force).

Conclusion

Actually, that’s the whole article about how to mount a plasterboard ceiling. Save this page or print it and let it be your cheat sheet on how to install drywall on a ceiling.

Good luck with your renovation! In addition, watch a video selection on the installation of gypsum board structures.