How to install an additional board on an interior door. Self-installation of extensions on entrance doors: types, calculations, installation. What are the sizes of extensions for interior doors

Very common when replacing interior doors a problem arises: the thickness of the wall in which the doorway is located is greater than the width of the door frame. The remaining uncovered sections of the wall look unattractive and spoil the whole impression of the new door. Door extensions will help to cope with this problem and give the doorway the necessary strength and a finished look.

Dobory on the door and their varieties

Dobor or doborny board (bar) is a flat board of rectangular shape. For its manufacture, solid wood and laminated or veneered MDF boards are most often used.

This product does not differ in a variety of types. All additional elements can be divided into two groups:

ordinary;
telescopic.

Ordinary additional planks look like an ordinary board, and differ from each other in the material from which they are made, in color and in width. On the market there are extensions with a width of 100, 120, 150 and 200 mm.

Telescopic extensions, according to the principle of their installation, are similar to lining. A plank of this type is equipped with a groove on one side and a ridge on the other. This allows you to veneer doorways of any width. On sale you can find telescopic extensions with a width of 90, 120 and 150 mm.

Also worth mentioning decorative corner, combining the functions of an additional board and a platband. This product is used only with a door frame of a special design. Deep grooves are located in its ends, into which trims are mounted. It is convenient to use additional elements of this kind when the width of the door frame is not enough, up to 50 mm. They are not suitable for wider openings.

How to choose the right accessories?

Today, in almost all retail outlets offering interior doors, door extensions are also presented. Therefore, there should be no problems with the choice of color and texture of these components.

When choosing the size of additional slats, it is necessary to make simple calculations. To do this, you need to know the width of the wall (WST) and the width of the door frame (SHK). Knowing these values, it is easy to calculate the width of the extension (SHD): ShD \u003d WST - ShK.

Attention! To obtain more accurate calculations, the width of the wall should be measured at several points, at least four. In the formula, you need to insert the measurement with the highest indicator.

Also, when choosing extensions, you should pay attention to the design of the door frame. If it has a special groove for installing an additional board, then its thickness must correspond to the thickness of the groove.

Technology for installing extensions on an interior door

Installing door extensions does not require any special skills, so you can do it yourself with your own hands. Install additional boards after the frame of the interior door is mounted in the opening and the mounting foam is completely dry. If there is a special groove in the box for adding, it must be thoroughly cleaned. If it is not there, it is necessary to clear the space behind the box from the foam. The width of the resulting gap should be 1.5-2 cm, depth - 1-2 cm.

Further installation technology may have minor differences depending on the type of extensions.

Installation of conventional extensions

The whole process of installing conventional doborny slats with your own hands can be divided into several successive stages:

Top board trim. First, the bar is measured and cut to length. Next, adjust the width. To do this, the board must be inserted into the prepared groove with the working side outward and mark the width of the wall at both ends. Connect the resulting points with a straight line and cut along it.
Adjustment of side boards. It is carried out in a similar way.
Collection of extras. At this stage, it is necessary to adjust the side additional elements in length so that the upper bar lies flat on them in a horizontal position.
Fastening trim strips. In order to avoid the formation of cracks and gaps, it is necessary to wedge the additional board between the opening and the box. As wedges, you can use pieces of wood, cardboard folded in several layers or dried polyurethane foam. After examining the junction of the upper bar with the side bars, the space between the extensions and the opening is foamed pointwise. When the foam dries, it fills the remaining cavities.
Installation of spacers in the opening between additional elements. This action will prevent their displacement during the drying of the mounting foam.
Installation of platbands.

Installation of telescopic extension bars

The process of installing telescopic elements as a whole repeats the steps of installing conventional extensions. The peculiarity of the installation of this type of extensions is that each subsequent row of planks is installed only when the previous one is securely fixed in the opening.

Thus, telescopic door extensions can be installed by hand without any problems.

Installation of platbands

This type of additional elements is installed easier than all the others. Combined trim-platbands do not require major fastening. The whole installation process consists in fitting them in length and installing them in a special groove on door frame.

First, the upper trim-platband is measured, cut off and installed, then the side corners are mounted. The side elements should be cut only from below, since there is a notch in their upper part, which ensures a tight connection of the side parts with the top. For the installation of additional elements on interior doors with their own hands, this variety of them is just perfect.

Installing extensions on the front door is not much different from installing these elements on interior doors. Their installation can also be done by hand without the help of professionals.

There are three ways to mount additional elements on a metal door:

lining (the additional board is tucked under the box);
attached (the product is applied directly to the box);
using a mounting bar.

For the front door, additional trims made of MDF or natural treated wood are ideal. These materials are resistant to mechanical stress, high humidity and have sufficient heat and sound insulation.

The stages of installing extensions on the front door can be outlined as follows:

Taking measurements from the wall to the box and from the top of the opening to the threshold.
Preparation of planks in accordance with the received dimensions. There should be three parts in total: two vertical and one horizontal.
Fastening of additional elements. In the event of a gap between the extensions and the wall, it must be filled with mounting foam, fixed and waited for complete drying. If there are no gaps and the extension fits snugly against the wall, it can be attached with glue, galvanized nails or self-tapping screws. The heads of nails and self-tapping screws are masked using special mastic or plugs to match the finishing cloth.
Installation of platbands.

Installing door dobor will not take much time. After the work is completed, the doorway will acquire a beautiful and complete look.

Many people, while renovating their homes, install a new door (entrance or interior) or ennoble old design. When purchasing a door, do not forget about the nuances decorative design doorways, slopes.

The space where the door and the frame is installed cannot always be covered by the frame. The thickness of the doorway is wider. Therefore, manufacturers offer complete to any model of solid wood, MDF, veneer extensions from the same material as the canvas. Installation of door extensions can be carried out both during the installation of doors, and after some time.

Dobory, platbands give a finished look to the doorway

Consider several options correct installation dobor. We will give recommendations to those who wish to do their installation by hand.

The extension is a decorative element that allows you to close the wall of the opening, not affected by the box. Not all openings are the same. Their thickness depends on the material used. If the wall is brick, then its thickness can be either one or more bricks.

The width of the opening is different, often the installation of extensions is required to create a unity of space

And to create a unity of space is required in any case for the completeness of the interior. Dobors perfectly cope with this function.

Additional elements are represented by a board or a panel of certain sizes made of various materials. The range includes a ruler from 80 mm to 500 mm. The thickness of each panel is 10–15 mm.
You can install door extensions in the groove of the box or right next to it.

When choosing a door, take care to buy extensions at the same time so that you don’t try to find a suitable shade in the future. The elements will be in contact with each other and the slightest difference in tone will become noticeable to any person. Therefore, when measuring or an interior opening, specify the dimensions of the horizontal and vertical surfaces.

Dobors, platbands, box, canvas must be of the same shade

Dobor is not always sold in the right size. Buy the option that is closest to what you need. Big things can always be reduced. The missing size will create difficulties with installation.

Various door mounting options

Openings can differ not only in the thickness of the wall, but also in the proportions of the space itself. The slopes are not always perfectly even and have a strictly vertical or horizontal direction.

There are oblique slopes (with an extension to the outer part of the wall), with an uneven surface, when the walls are poorly plastered. It is necessary to take into account all the nuances so that the installation of decorative elements is correct.

Standard door fittings

It is understood that there is a special groove in the door frame where the extension is inserted.

Often the extension is installed in the factory groove of the box

Installation is carried out together with the box at the stage of its fixing in the opening. We will need the following elements:

vertical extension - 2 pcs.;
horizontal extension - 1 pc.;
building corner or tape measure;
rule;
hammer;
hacksaw or circular saw;
drill;
mounting gun;
foam;
nails without caps or glue "liquid nails";
self-tapping screws;
furniture plugs;
masking tape;
wedges, bars.

This is a standard set for any way of installing decorative extensions. We proceed to the description of the standard method.

Sequencing:

This completes all steps. Using this guide, installing door extensions with your own hands will become available to anyone. home master without extra costs.

Non-standard method of installing extensions

Not always the frame of the entrance or interior door has a special groove for the spike of the decorative slope.

In the absence of a groove, the extension is installed close to the box different options

It refers to metal structures or the option of using a box not supplied with the door. Then the groove may not be provided. But extensions need to be installed. There is another method for installing panels:

adjoining the end of the finishing board to the box, if the door is installed before the decorative strips are purchased;
if the door is not installed, then the panels are fixed directly to the frame at the assembly stage.

Let's consider both options.

If the door has not yet been installed

Having collected the vertical and horizontal parts of the box, we fix the extensions to the ends of the racks, having previously taken measurements and filed them to the desired size.
With a thin drill, we drill holes for small nails at a distance of 200-300 mm from each other.
Carefully nail the panel to the slats of the box.
We install the structure in the doorway, performing all the steps in sequence.

If the door is installed

You can install dobors with your own hands in such a situation in two ways:

fastening with long screws to the racks of the box;
fixing to the wall.

In the first case, it is necessary to select thin self-tapping screws of such a length as to flash through the width of the extension and timber. This method is possible if the thickness of the non-ennobled wall is not more than 200 mm. At larger size structural integrity may be questionable.

We twist the screws into the previously prepared holes, driving them inside the panel. We perform actions around the perimeter of the doorway.
In the second case, the decorative board is fixed to the wall, which must be closed. If the wall is flat, there is no large gap between the wall and the door frame, you can fix the extension directly to the wall using self-tapping screws or liquid nails.
When using self-tapping screws, we drill small holes with a recess for the cap.
We twist the screws around the perimeter, close it with furniture plugs using silicone glue.
When choosing the option with glue, we apply liquid nails to inner surface dobor. Attach to the wall and press firmly. For good adhesion of surfaces, you can fix the panels to the wall and the box with masking tape.
If the walls are uneven or the gap is very large, you can use lining bars to secure the extensions to the wall.
We cut the bars of the required thickness into parts of the desired size.
We fix them to the wall, controlling the process with a level. We form a frame for decorative panels.
We install extensions on the resulting frame using self-tapping screws or liquid nails.
We take mounting gun and blow out the space between the wall and the decorative element without fanaticism, so as not to disturb the proportions.
After the foam dries, we remove the excess with a knife, proceed to the installation of platbands.

The unity of space has been created. Any kind of do-it-yourself door installation is available to those who know how to hold tools and solve simple problems.

Doorway with deviations

Not always the interior opening has smooth vertical or horizontal lines.

Basically, door extensions are installed on the inside, where there are no hinges. There are situations that require a decorative coating on the side of the hinges. It is necessary to observe the gaps that allow the door to open smoothly. If you do not take into account the opening angle of the fittings, there will be friction between the surfaces, which will lead to rapid abrasion of the decor.

You can close the wall with others finishing materials: wallpaper, painting, wall panels, decorative plaster. The world of construction stores will offer you a variety of goods. Door addition reduces the time for finishing the room, the cost of purchasing additional funds, and prevents difficulties with choosing a shade.

The door is a single composition of the interior. Everything must be perfect.

The price of extensions and their installation depends on several parameters.

Dobory, or doborny boards, are installed in the frame of the door, if the width of the door frame (jamb, "loot") is less than the thickness of the wall in which the door is installed. Extensions play not only an aesthetic role, covering uneven and easily soiled slopes. (if you are interested in other ways of finishing slopes - read about them here). They, together with the platbands, also strengthen the door and prevent it from warping. Do-it-yourself installation of extensions is possible both when installing a new door, and on an existing door. We will look at the most common cases.

Additional boards can be made independently, from a flat board, edged or tongue-and-groove, for thick walls. Waterproof plywood BS (aircraft plywood), pasted over with a decorative self-adhesive film, is very well suited for very thick or damp walls or underlayments: BS plywood does not delaminate and does not crack during fine processing of edges and does not warp from moisture.

Door frame with extensions. The mustard color indicates the lining.

However, most often it turns out to be cheaper and easier to use ready-made additional boards made of MDF with a decorative coating. The standard dimensions of factory-made extensions are in the range of 80 - 550 mm. For cases when it is necessary to make type-setting extensions on thick walls, extensions from MDF with a tongue-and-groove lock are produced.

According to standard technology, extensions are installed in a special recess on the inside of the door frame - a quarter. However, when installing extensions on an already standing door, it is permissible to use extensions (adjacent to the door frame) and underlays (slipped under it).

Attached extensions are recommended to be used only in dry rooms with a moderate temperature and in cases where the door is made of very high quality or may lose value from alteration (for example, if the door is an antique item or a museum exhibit).

If the door is slanted

If the door jamb is skewed and the deviation of the upper bar from the horizontal is more than 5% of its length, and the door leaf is fitted to the slanting frame, the installation of extensions without altering the door is not recommended. The door frame itself does not warp; its skew indicates structural defects, without correcting which the extensions will not immediately give a look, and subsequently they will warp and split.

Tools and accessories

To install door extensions, you will need some additional tools: a manual wood milling machine, a manual circular (parquet) saw and a clamp with a soft sheathing bed. The clamp is most needed in order to press the saw against the stool with the disc up, to get a convenient mini-circular. It is possible to tighten the clamp with a soft one by successively putting on it and heating over a gas burner at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 m, a heat-shrinkable tube in 3-4 layers.

Of the accessories, you will need 3-4 stools of the same height and not staggering, 4-5 wooden planks of approximately 30x30 or 40x40 mm, with a dozen wedges from the same rail and several strips (you can waste) of ordinary packaging plywood or drywall.

Door installation process

Base plane picking

In prepared for the installation of add-ons doorway you need to immediately beat off the base plane, and mark its trace on the floor with a pencil. This is exactly done using the Pythagorean triangle method (a right-angled triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5; a "magic triangle"). We will give explanations to the figure on how to do this:

Half the width of the doorway along the bottom is considered equal to three base lengths - 3l. If, for example, the width of the opening is 60 cm, then its half is 30 cm, and the base length (l) is 10 cm.
From the corners of the opening with a cord 5l long, we make two marks. From their intersection at point B to point O (middle of the opening) should be 4l. In this case, the OB line will be exactly perpendicular to the opening plane, and all horizontal measurements can be taken from it; the desired vertical accuracy will give a plumb line.

Note: if you have the opportunity to use the laser projector of the base surfaces, then the described procedure is not needed. But it will not be possible to achieve the required accuracy with the help of a carpenter's or locksmith's large square: the error will be greater than the gap between the door leaf and the door frame.

What to do if the walls are sloping

When checking the verticality of the walls, it may turn out that they are sloped, positive or negative. If the slope does not exceed 5 mm along the height of the door, it can be reduced to zero on the surface under the casing with plaster. If it’s more, there’s nothing to be done, when cutting additional boards to size, you will also have to cut them into a wedge.

Foam blowing

After installing the extensions, the slots are blown out with mounting foam before plastering. The foam expands as it solidifies and creates a fairly significant pressure. To prevent the finished door jamb from this, you must follow the following rules:

Do not remove the leveling wedges until the foam has completely cured.
Also, do not remove the spacer bars; if they were not previously needed - install on friction, but not tight. The spacers should support the extensions, not push them apart.
Do foam blowing with uniform movement around the perimeter in 3-4 steps; each subsequent - after the complete solidification of the previous one.
There should be some space left from the outer edge of the foam to the edge of the slope. If you see the next layer of foam coming out, stop blowing. "Re-plastering" later is better than "re-plastering" now.

Immediately with the box

The most technologically simple case is to install door extensions with your own hands when installing a new door along with the door frame. Such an operation is performed in the following order:

On the stools we lay the door jamb with the inner (opposite to the hinges) side up.
We align the corners to rectangularity, checking with diagonals: they must be of equal length. To do this, we temporarily nail a wooden plank to the bottom with small nails equal to the length of the upper plank of the door.
If the jamb is without a quarter for dobors, we select a quarter with a milling machine. The depth of the quarter should be equal to the thickness of the additional board, and its width should be equal to the depth.

Example: additional board - 16 mm thick (standard MDF thickness). You need to choose a quarter 16X16 mm.

Along the perimeter of the door frame, we attach strips of plywood or drywall to the outside so that they protrude up the width of the additional board. Solid framing is not needed, two trims are enough for the top bar and 3-4 for the sidewalls. We nail plywood with carnations; drywall will have to be fixed with self-tapping screws.
We cut the extensions to size. The top bar of the extension should lie between the side ones, so we cut it to the size of the upper quarter, and the side ones to the size of the sidewalls of the box.
On both sides of the quarter we apply liquid nails or any mounting glue for wood.
We insert the additional boards into place and wait for the glue to set.
We remove the temporary lower bar that kept the extensions from falling out of the plywood and put the door frame in place.
Align the box to the base plane.
We align the box in width with the help of wooden slats-spacers; while checking the verticality of the sidewalls with a plumb line.
Knocking wedges under the sidewalls, we achieve the horizontality of the upper bar of the door.
We blow out the cracks with foam and plaster flush with the surface of the wall.
We nail the skirting boards, cut to size and glue liquid nails platbands - the door with extensions is ready.

Finished door and straight slopes

In this case, in order to facilitate the installation of extensions, you need to prepare in advance a dozen and a half or two thin, 3-4 mm thick, wedges from waste plywood. After that:

We knock down the plaster from the slopes and check if there is a quarter on the door frame. If yes, then it remains to choose additional boards in thickness.
We cut the extensions to size, but not as described above: the top board will now fit the size of the box on top; lateral - in the size of the lateral quarters.
We apply liquid nails to the inner edge of the side extensions, insert them into place. If you can reach a quarter, it is better to apply glue to it.
We adjust the height of the dobors with wedges from below, as described.
We insert in turn the spacer strips, pre-cut to the width of the doorway, and we support the extensions from the side of the slope with thin wedges so that they do not fall out. We check the verticality of the extensions with a plumb line; better - just two, suspended in advance.
We apply glue not to the tops of the side extensions, to the inner edge of the upper extension board (or a quarter), and lay the upper extension board.
After the glue has hardened, blow it with foam and decorate as described.

If there is no quarter and with inclined walls

If the door frame is without a quarter, then there are two options:

Reverse quarter. With a milling machine, we remove a quarter on the extensions, 10-15 mm wide and half the thickness of the extension. With “not very” inclined walls, this option is convenient in that a quarter on the extension can be made oblique in width, and such an extension will hold no worse than “normal”.
If the walls are brick, then you can knock out a groove in the slope under the door frame, and put underlays. This option is convenient for those who do rough work with a lot of effort better than light, but thin.

In both cases, the extensions are installed with the help of auxiliary thin wedges, as already described.

slope slopes

If the slopes of the doorway with a slope (expanding opening), then, regardless of whether new door or an existing one, the extensions must be placed at the standing door. The fact is that when installing direct extensions, you get a very wide gap. After blowing foam behind the casing, there will be a space where the plaster lies on the foam. Sooner or later cracks and/or dips form there.

Therefore, before installing extensions in openings with inclined slopes, the inner edge of the extensions must be brought to a wedge along the length, as marked in the figure with a red circle. After trimming to size, the extensions themselves will take the form of a trapezoid. Otherwise, the installation of extensions in this case has no special features.

Interior doors

As a rule, extensions are installed from the side opposite door hinges. But when installing the extensions of interior doors, it is possible that they will have to be installed from the side of the hinges. If so, then you first need to check whether the extensions interfere with the opening of the door.

If at completely open door between its edge and the edge of the door frame there is a gap equal to the thickness of the extension with a margin of 2-3 mm, there are no problems: we put the extensions in any of the ways described above. If the edge of the door is adjacent to the edge of the box, you need to put underlays, having previously knocked down the plaster from the slopes. This should not be neglected: only 1.5 mm of “pressing” the sash to the extension eats up 10 degrees of its opening angle, not to mention the fact that the extension will soon be damaged.

Read about the full cycle of interior door installation here.

steel doors

Extras on steel doors it is possible to put only lining. There is a nuance here: along the length of the extensions, along their inner DECORATIVE side, at a distance of 10-12 mm from the edge, you need to use a circular saw to select a groove with a depth of a third of the thickness of the extension and a width in the thickness of the corner from which the door frame is welded plus 1 mm. It is for this groove, when the edge of the steel door frame enters it, the box will keep the extension with it.

More information about the nuance of installing entrance doors can be found here.

Type-setting extensions

When covering walls with MDF panels, laminate, etc. The selection of the door frame can be done in typesetting from pieces of sheathing material, longitudinal or transverse. But technologically, such an operation already refers to the technology of wall cladding, and not the installation of extensions.

Video: full installation cycle of an interior door

Installation door leaf often involves the design of slopes in order to decorate and level them. The optimal solution of this task are extensions that are installed on the wall near the box. These structures are small planks of wood or plastic. Before installing such products, you should find out the features of installing extensions on the door. This will simplify and speed up all installation operations.

The need for extras: the pros and cons

Dobors are small planks or boards that are attached to the slopes. They are used only on openings that have a significant width, and the box itself is not able to close them. Technically, these elements are not mandatory attributes of an entrance or interior door. You can do fine without them, but at the same time you will need to form a wide slope, which is not always convenient and practical.

Door extensions have several advantages over other finishing methods:

Possibility of installation on an uneven surface. Therefore, extensions exclude additional wall decoration, which reduces the cost of materials.
High-quality protection against pollution.
High mechanical strength. This is especially true for products made of natural wood, from which extensions are most often made.
The strips installed on the slopes additionally strengthen the door frame, preventing it from loosening or warping.
Versatility. Extras released today different thickness and width, which allows them to be used for finishing almost any type of slopes. This is especially true of telescopic models that can be sewn together like a wooden lining.
Variety of designs. Designs are made from various materials, which are designed for certain style directions.

Mounting methods

Installing door dobors involves fixing them to the wall. This process is relatively simple and can be done in several basic ways:

Fastening directly when installing the door frame. In this case, the additional board is attached directly to the door frame. Various methods can be used for this. by the most simple option is to knock them together with the help of an inner board that is attached to the extension and the box. It is important during installation to align the planes of both elements in order to obtain a flat surface. But if the slopes have significant differences, then without certain skills it will be difficult to fit the elements very evenly with minimal damage.

To hide the joint between the box and the extension, a tenon-groove connection is cut out at their ends. In this case, the board goes inside the door frame, which hides it under itself. This option is more common, as it allows you to get a beautiful and decorative surface.

Similar grooves today are complemented by the extensions themselves at each of the ends. This allows you to combine them into a more aesthetic system. But for metal doors it is impossible to make such a connection after installing the box. This is due to the fact that it is technically unrealistic to form a groove in the metal using a milling cutter.

How to do it yourself?

Dobors are ordinary planks or boards that perform a decorative function. Therefore, you can make them yourself from various materials. Often they are formed from natural boards of small thickness or sheet products (chipboard, plywood, etc.).

The process of making dobor at home can be divided into several successive stages:

Initially, measurements of the opening are carried out. It is important to measure the slopes in different places in order to eliminate inaccuracies in dimensions. This procedure must be carried out for each side of the slope separately.
Based on the data obtained, a blank should be made. To do this, the dimensions of the future addition are applied to the board. Please note that it is best to provide a small margin so that no gaps form at the joints after installation. When the markup is ready, the board is cut into extensions. Such operations are best performed using circular saw, as it will provide a more even and high-quality cut.
The procedure is completed with fitting and trimming. If the board is slightly larger, then you should align the ends with an electric planer. To give the extension a unique design, the wood must be sanded and painted with stain or varnish. If applicable laminated chipboard, then you need to take care of closing the ends special tapes. They are glued to the material with an iron or a special hair dryer.

The manufacture of extensions allows not only to save money, but also to get a durable system that will be adapted to specific operating conditions.

How to install correctly?

Installation of door extensions is a simple operation, which, if desired, can be performed independently. But before installing such elements, it is advisable to read the instructions for their fastening. This will allow you to deliver them much faster and better.

Required Tools

Installation of extensions is an operation that requires a minimum amount of skills. But to get quality result, you should use an auxiliary tool, including:

Hand or circular saw. The best option would be a grinder with a special circle for wood or a jigsaw. It is advisable to use saws with small teeth to get a smooth joint without burrs.
Milling machine. With its help, grooves are formed for joining the box and the additional board. Please note that installation can be carried out without this operation. But it is impossible to get accurate and inconspicuous ends without it.
Clamps. These mechanisms are used to fix the grinder to the chair. This will allow you to get a mini circular saw that will make it easier to trim the extension in the right place.
Pencil and a long line.

To optimize the work, you will also need a long table or several stools. They are used as supports on which boards are laid during processing.

How to count?

Installation of extensions always begins with measuring the thickness of the wall. The choice of the type and quantity of consumables depends on this parameter.

Initially, you need to get the width of the free space on the wall near the box. Measurements are taken with a ruler or a corner. The latter option is more accurate, since it is necessary to take into account the angle between the door frame and the board. It is desirable to know the width around the entire perimeter of the opening.
The next step is to measure the thickness of the door frame. This is necessary in order to select the appropriate extension, under which the minimum number of supporting elements will need to be placed.
The procedure ends with the calculation of the number of additions. This takes into account not only the width of the board and the opening, but also their height. It is advisable to take these parameters with a small margin, so that you can then adjust the canvas to the dimensions of the opening. Please note that all extensions on the market have standard sizes. Therefore, when choosing, focus on them.

What can be used instead of supplements?

Dobors are factory-type products that are produced with certain technical parameters. But no one bothers to replace finished products with improvised materials that every owner can find:

Solid board. The best option for making dobor. The material perfectly withstands high loads, and is also strong and durable. In this case, it is possible to use various types of wood for the manufacture of the structure. This will allow you to adapt the final product to the style of the frame and door leaf.
MDF. Products made from wood shavings that are used to make doors. Sheets of this material are also great for extensions. But the substance resists moisture very poorly, so such elements can only be installed indoors with minimal humidity.
Chipboard and fiberboard. Sheets from wood waste, which can be adapted for extensions. Working with them is quite easy, but at the same time they are also afraid of moisture, which limits their use.
Plywood. There are several types of such a substance that is moisture resistant. Plywood is best option for the manufacture of extensions, as it has an optimal ratio of price and quality.

If you do not have these materials, you can make an addition from scraps of plastic lining. Although it is not so strong, it is very easy to cut and is not afraid of moisture.

How to increase?

There are situations when the width of one standard extension is not enough to close the doorway. The solution to this problem is only the extension of the canvas.

This process consists of several successive steps:

Initially, additional boards are installed near the box itself. It is important to fix them qualitatively and evenly.
After that, a second row of material is applied to them, which will already protrude slightly beyond the edge of the wall. This will allow marking along the entire length of the board. Alternative option is the measurement of an unclosed piece of slope with the subsequent transfer of dimensions to a new workpiece.
When the markup is done, you need to saw off the extension. Please note that cutting is only done from the side that does not fit with the previous board. This is important when telescopic types of coatings are used for building, as they are initially equipped with grooved joints.

When direct extensions are applied, the side of their trimming does not matter. The main thing is that when docking they form a minimum gap.

Installation

The algorithm for installing extensions consists of the following sequential actions:

Initially, all measurements are taken and the dimensions of all elements are adjusted. It is important that the joints of the boards are with minimal gaps, as this will not only not be beautiful, but will also lead to the formation of drafts.
At this stage, fit the board to the wall. This process involves aligning it in the same plane with the door frame. If the slope is uneven, then for this, wooden planks of various thicknesses are placed under the extension. They should be attached to the wall with screws and dowels.

When the slopes are at an angle, then it is advisable not to align them parallel to the box, but to form them with a slight slope. In this case, the angle should be the same on both sides of the opening.

The procedure ends with the installation and finishing of the extensions. To close the ends, platbands are placed on the outside, which are also made of the same material.

Most factory doors are designed for a standard wall thickness of 7-8 cm for city apartments. Therefore, the owners of suburban buildings, whose walls are most often much thicker than apartment interior partitions, we have to adapt to the realities proposed by the industry. The sections of the opening that are not blocked by the door frame are plastered, finished with drywall or plastic. However, it is much simpler, easier, faster to install an extension on the door, which is a kind of door frame expander.

Video - installation of telescopic extensions

Why install an add-on at all?

Extensions are two vertical posts and one upper horizontal bar designed to increase the “coverage area” of the box. Simply put, they expand the door frame. They are made from solid wood, MDF and fiberboard.

These slats can be purchased together with the door unit or purchased separately. The extensions do not differ in a super-complex design, and the home master can easily make them himself from lumber or slabs that replace wood.

Various installation methods

Assembled from three components into a single whole, the expander-addition "in full face" copies the letter P, it is attached:

or directly to the door frame;
or to the wall in the opening area;
or on a mounting bar located between vertical planes openings and surcharges.

Since no one will “put” a special mechanical load on the extensions, sometimes only liquid nails are used to fix in a specially made recess. But mostly they are mounted using galvanized self-tapping screws. If fastening is done from the front side, the fastener caps are hidden with mastics or matching plugs.

Reasonable benefits of extras

Extremely high speed of construction and installation of extended extensions door block.
The absence of "wet" finishing processes, unfavorable for the neighborhood with wood.
The maximum increase in the period between regular repairs.

And unconditional aesthetic priorities, providing the impression of the integrity of a presentable door structure.

Extensions for boxes with and without a groove

You can buy doors for arranging a country building:

with boxes, in the outer side of which a grooved quarter is pre-selected for alignment with extensions;
with a box beam without the above fixture.

With the first option, everything is relatively simple. For him, wooden or chipboard planks of centimeter thickness are suitable. The width of the slats-panels is measured with the base box installed in the opening. It is possible without it, but it is necessary to take into account that the addition only complements it. Defines the width distance from the edge of the opening to the end of the recess-quarter in the box. That is, the width of the extension is equal to the sum of the width missing to completely cover the opening and the transverse size of the recess. Most often it is 1 cm, but there may be other options.

Attention. All measurements must be taken at several points. Preferably at four. It is possible that the readings will differ. In case of deviations, the maximum is taken as the base size.

When fully assembled, the end line of the extensions should be flush with the opening line. Millimeter surpluses are squeezed with a planer, subsequently everything is closed by cashing.

The additional extension of the door structure with a groove only needs to be nailed to the base that is not installed in the opening on the reverse side with small galvanized nails in increments of 20-35 cm.

If the contractor has at his disposal a box beam without a notch made by the manufacturer, he can:

choose a quarter on your own with a milling machine with a built-in ruler and a straight cutter, after which the box automatically switches to a clan of door elements with a device for installing an extension;
attach extensions to the box beam through holes drilled through from the end with self-tapping screws;

Note. The diameter of the through holes for fastening the trim strips to the box is not the same along the entire length. First, use a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the screw head, then equal to the size of its barrel.

install additional elements on bars screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws, place the first of them 20 cm from the floor surface and then after 55-60 cm;
“plant” the extensions together with the box inside a kind of plasterboard or plywood base;
connect the box beam without a quarter with the slats of the extensions by installing a rail passing from the outside of the structure along the entire alignment line;
fasten the above-described rail or planks of plywood not in a continuous strip around the perimeter, but in separate segments.

Note. You need to nail both the beam and the dobor strips to the rail, its central axis should coincide with the connection line, but you can slightly shift it.

Depending on the massiveness of this addition to the door block, the owner himself chooses how to install extensions on the door. Any of these options is simple and quite feasible with your own hands.

The standard algorithm for installing add-ons

Usually, the upper plank, combined with the lintel, is superimposed on two vertical elements. To calculate its length, two thicknesses of additional racks are added to the length of the lintel. However, you can place it between them. Then the length of the ceiling extension will be equal to the width of the box, and the thickness of the upper bar must be added to the height of the left and right vertical elements.

So, the installation order:

First, with scrupulous accuracy, we carry out measurements according to the scheme corresponding to the chosen installation method.

Note. For the left and right additions, vertical measurements are taken separately. It is recommended to measure the inner line of the future vertical strip along the box, the outer one in fact in the opening.

The board purchased for the additional device is cut according to the measurements and the selected construction scheme.
We attach all three additional parts to an installed or uninstalled, but fully assembled door frame.
If add-ons were nailed or screwed to a box that was not installed in the opening, it must be installed together with add-ons.
We place mounting wedges between the wall and the extended door frame and, by changing their position, we will align the structure in the opening.
Before blowing the mounting gap with foam, we will install spacer wedges, both between the box beam and between the extensions.
Foaming is performed in portions, at least in two steps we fill the space. We control the curing process, if necessary, make adjustments while the foam hardens. We complete the work by sealing the gap between wooden details And flooring and installation of platbands.

The listed ways of expanding the door unit are applicable to both interior and exterior doors. The difference is obtained only in the width of the additional slats. If an extension is being installed on the front door, most often the width of the standard extension boards is not enough. In such cases, several strips are connected to each other by means of slotted joints or specialized adapters.

If the hinge post is located near a blank wall, the box can be expanded in both directions. If there is no wall limiting the course of the canvas, and the door can “work” at 180º, the box is mounted flush with the outer plane of the opening, and the extensions are located on the side opposite to the opening / closing side. They should not interfere with the use of the door.

That's all the tricks with subtleties. What will be easier, more convenient, faster and more beautiful is up to the home master himself. It is important to know that any existing methods does not require special skills, but it is necessary to stock up on accuracy and attention.