What accessories are needed for the threshold in the bathroom. How to make a threshold in a bathroom doorway? Characteristics and types

Repairs require a lot of time and money. It is required not only to follow your own preferences, but also to special norms. Some features of the premises must be taken into account during the work. Such a nuance is the threshold between the bathroom and the corridor, which is a necessary part of the room. Therefore, you should figure out why you need it and what stages the installation includes.

The threshold between the bathroom and the corridor.

It is important to understand the purpose of the threshold between the bathroom and the corridor. The presence of this part is a special technical requirement for the dwelling. The floor level in the bathroom should be 20 cm lower than the rest of the flooring in the rooms. Separation of the space by a threshold is allowed. There are several types of its device:

An important design detail is the threshold.

The purpose of this part of the dwelling is to prevent water from entering the rest of the spaces outside the bathroom.

Important points when choosing a door sill for a bathroom

Based on the purpose of the threshold, it is necessary to carefully select suitable option constructions. Height matters. Its value should exceed the floor in the rooms. It is recommended to further lower the floor surface in the bathroom. This will provide an area for unexpected fluid accumulation.

Choosing the height of the future nut.

Preparatory work for installing the sill in the bathroom

Preparation lies in the location the right tools and materials. It is important to know what you need to work.

Protective clothing for repairs.

You will also need tools:

After preparing the tools, dismantle the old nut and the wood box. Be careful not to damage the latter. After that, the surface is cleaned of dust and dirt. The surface is covered with a layer of primer.

Dismantling the old nut.

Installation process

The tiles are prepared for installation. To do this, with the help of a grinder, it is cut into the necessary parts. Despite the complexity of the work, the styling will turn out good. The tiles should be the same as those on the bathroom floor. Previously, markings are applied to it for cuts. Then they begin to prepare the glue. There are instructions on the packaging that should be followed clearly.

Installation of a new nut.

Mix the glue thoroughly.

The notched trowel allows you to use the material more economically. Therefore, with its help, you need to apply glue from the back of the tile. Then she is applied and pressed. You don't need to press hard. Using a building level, you need to accurately align horizontally. It is additionally processed with a trowel compound. Better to kick out the work with a rubber spatula.

Apply the adhesive to the tile with a notched trowel.

In addition to this option, you can install a wooden threshold. It's easy to make with my own hands... Suitable species are pine and oak due to their hardness and reliability. There are plastic thresholds, but they are fragile. When using wood, leave a gap of about 5 mm between the threshold and the door for proper air circulation.

Laying a wooden nut.

For installation, it is necessary to build grooves at the bottom of the side posts of the box, corresponding to the height of the nut. The completed piece of wood is inserted into this hole with a hammer. With a drill, they make several through uniform holes. Set aside the workpiece and, according to the marks obtained, drive in the dowels. The nut is returned and screwed on with self-tapping screws.

Installation is simple. You can do it yourself. It is only necessary to first decide on the material from which the threshold will be made.

Mounted sill between bathroom and hallway.

Video: The threshold between the bathroom and the corridor

Photo gallery: Bathroom threshold options

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water pipe is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible hose is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places... To protect the flexible hose, there is an upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 ° C and remain functional for 3 years. At high humidity, the aluminum braid is prone to rust.
Of stainless steel. Thanks to such a reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water line is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 ° C.
Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

As fasteners, nut-nut and nut-union pairs are used, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different allowable temperatures differ in the color of the braid. Blue are used to connect to a pipeline with cold waterand the red ones are hot.

When choosing an eyeliner for water, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the emission of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connected gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible hoses. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. End steel or aluminum reinforcement is used for fixation. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

pVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and accessories for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials from well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and the quality of products is confirmed by certificates of the established form. For informational support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.

Drainage is an irrigation and drainage measure aimed at removing excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil gleys, if the shrubs and trees quickly disappear (soak), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging of the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogging:

clayey heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
the aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
high occurrence of groundwater;
man-made factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that impede natural drainage;
violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
the landscape plot is located in a lowland, a ravine, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What is the risk of excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

the content of oxygen in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and diet in the soil;
oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disturbed, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
there is an intense breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, putrefaction processes are activated.

Plants can tell you what level the groundwater is at

Take a closer look at the flora of your site. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges - vesicular, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass grow;
at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, ranks;
from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning the drainage of the site

Each plant group has its own moisture needs:

at a depth of groundwater from 0.5 to 1 m can grow by high beds one-year vegetables and flowers;
the depth of the water layer up to 1.5 m is well tolerated vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), decorative and fruit and berry bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
if the groundwater is at a depth of more than 2 m, fruit trees can be grown;
optimum depth of groundwater for agriculture - from 3.5 m.

Do you need drainage of the site

Write down your observations at least for a while. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to just redirect melt and sedimentary water along a bypass channel, rather than letting them flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?

Or is it worth doing drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend to call. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness of this issue.

At the end of the technological and production tasks related to the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, an industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the involved system by the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved, and the test report for internal sewerage systems and gutters will be material evidence of the acceptance of the facility.

The visual check should be accompanied by the introduction into the act of testing the internal sewerage systems and gutters according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the application series "D", which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary-technical systems of the building" updated working edition for SNiP 3.05.01-85.

A threshold in a bathroom is, at first glance, not necessary at all, so many people prefer to do without it. In fact, the presence of such a sill is an indispensable condition that is regulated by building codes and regulations.

Necessity

If you, for example, started a redevelopment, as a result of which the floor levels in the bathroom and in the rest of the apartment became the same, then the BTI may not agree on such changes. Of course, if you are not going to part with your home, then you do not have to worry about the redevelopment being officially approved.

However, life does not stand still, and the thought of selling an apartment and buying a new one may arise completely unexpectedly. In order to avoid the difficulties associated with redevelopment registration, it is better to carry out repairs in accordance with all the requirements specified in the regulatory documents.

The threshold in the bathroom is needed, first of all, in order to stop or at least delay the flow of water in the event of a leak and to protect the rest of the rooms from a flood. The effect will be stronger if the lower 15-20 cm of walls in the bathroom are waterproofed.

So, the main function of the sill is to prevent the spread of "floods" throughout the apartment. In addition, it creates additional sound insulation, since the door is more tightly fixed in the opening. Also, the interior threshold prevents drafts from entering the bathroom, unpleasant odors and dust.

It should be noted that, in addition to the arrangement of the threshold, there are several more options for solving this problem. So, you can organize the difference between the floor levels in the bathroom and in the hallway. In this case, the bathroom floor can be 15-20 mm lower than the floor in the corridor, or vice versa. Instead of a threshold, you can build a smooth slope towards the bathroom. All these options will require much more resources from you - time, labor and money than installing an interior threshold, so if you are not a very experienced builder, we advise you not to experiment, but to solve the problem in the simplest and most affordable way.

Requirements

The bathroom is a special room in the house, so all the furnishings and equipment for this room must be selected with extraordinary care. The bathroom is characterized by high humidity and frequent temperature changes. As a result, the formation of condensation and the appearance of mold. The materials used for repairs must be moisture resistant, not afraid of either heat or cold, and also tolerate washing with special detergents well.

Thus, the structure and finish of the threshold in the bathroom must be very well thought out. It is desirable that it be monolithic structure without gaps and crevices. It must be strong and durable, water-repellent, but not slippery at the same time. In addition, it must be made of durable, durable materials and, of course, be in harmony with the finish of the bathroom and corridor. Not an easy task, but we can handle it!

Choosing a material

The first step is to decide what our threshold will be made of.

A variety of materials are used for the manufacture of sills:

Steelis perhaps the most durable material. Such a nut will be very difficult to damage or break. Steel thresholds can be purchased in metal color or painted in any other color.
Stainless steel thresholdsare quite rare, much more often stainless steel, thanks to its beautiful silver coating, walls or pieces of furniture are trimmed.
Bronzeare made exclusively to order, since this material is very expensive. However, it is possible to purchase thresholds made of aluminum, painted "bronze". They cost much less, and for appearance practically do not differ.
Brass - the material is also not cheap, but it is very beautiful. Nuts are made from it very strong and durable.
Aluminum rails - lightweight and inexpensive. They are found in a wide variety of colors.
Wooden sills are the most common. This is due to the fact that such a threshold is easy to match in color to wooden door... Wood is a beautiful and sustainable material. Wood laths can be easily made by hand. Oak and pine are most suitable for this. These rocks are the hardest and most durable.
Plastic thresholds - the most affordable of all. In shops you can find plastic products of all colors and sizes. They are inexpensive, look aesthetically pleasing, but their service life is not very long, so get ready for the fact that such sills will have to be changed every few years.
Concrete threshold Is a capital product that will reliably protect an apartment in the event of a flood. It is quite possible to make such a threshold on your own. Tile or laminate is usually used as a finishing coating.

The most popular thresholds are wood, metal, plastic and concrete.

Dismantling the old threshold

If you plan to construct a new threshold not "from scratch", but in place of the old one, it is logical to assume that the old threshold must be dismantled first. Since the threshold is a solid product, in order to disassemble it, you need serious tools - a small crowbar, a hammer and a hacksaw.

We start by cutting it out on the sides with a hacksaw and carefully breaking out the middle part. Try to do this as carefully as possible so as not to damage the door or the paneling. Next, using a crowbar and a hammer, we extract what is left of the threshold.

Preparatory work and necessary tools

In order for the installation of the threshold in the bathroom to go smoothly and as a result of the work the master was left without physical injuries, you will need to be well equipped.

Prepare work clothes that cover your hands and feet and shoes (the one that you do not mind), put a cap or bandage on your head. Protect your eyes with special goggles used by construction workers. Wear gloves.

You will also need the following tools:

the container in which the tile glue will be kneaded;
rule;
building level;
notched trowel;
rubber spatula;
ordinary spatula;
perforator and grinder with a nozzle designed for work on porcelain stoneware.

Before starting work, you should prepare all necessary materials... First of all, take measurements and cut the tiles into pieces of the required size. Porcelain stoneware of the same color as the floor in the bathroom or in the hallway is most suitable for finishing the threshold. Then, following the instructions, knead the tile adhesive. The consistency of the resulting mass should be homogeneous, similar to liquid sour cream.

We complete the preliminary work by preparing the base: we clean it of dust and dirt, we treat it with a primer.

Stages of work

On the prepared concrete base it is necessary to form a nut. We will do this with a screed.

Sequence of work:

First you need to make wooden bumpers that will serve as limiters for cement mortar, and at the same time create the shape of the future threshold.
To prevent the screed from sticking to the wooden planks, we wrap them with cellophane.
Then fill in the resulting shape cement mixture and level it on top with the rule.
We adjust the height of the nut using the building level.
Next, you need to wait until the screed is completely dry. This can take several days, during which the concrete must be periodically moistened with water to prevent cracking.
After the mixture dries and hardens, remove the planks and clean the sill, trying to make its surface as even as possible.
We prime the threshold from all sides.

The next step will be facing the sill with porcelain stoneware tiles:

Apply adhesive to the tile with a notched trowel, apply it to the base and press it for a few seconds.
We align the distance between the tiles using special plastic crosses. Don't forget to use the building level!
Upon completion of the laying work, we process the joints with grout to match. It is recommended to use a rubber spatula for this, and remove excess mixture with a foam sponge.

We check the strength of the final structure by simply tapping - the sound should be the same everywhere. If the impacts sound louder in certain places, it means that you could not avoid the formation of voids and the tiles above them can quickly crack.

Do I need threshold in the bathroom? To say that this issue is very important in the repair is to say nothing. After all, the presence or absence threshold, entails a question about the height of the doorway.

How does the threshold in the bathroom affect
for door installation

A certain height is required to install the door. It is calculated as follows. Let's say you decide to install a door. Length door leaf is 2 meters. Add here the thickness of the door frame 3 cm, the space for foam 2 cm and the gap between the floor and the door leaf 1.5 cm.It turns out that for the comfortable work of the wizard to install the door, the height of the doorway should be at least 2 meters and 6 -7 centimeters. This is if door without threshold.

If you plan to install door with a threshold, and threshold this will be from the same door frame, then you need to add another 3 cm. These 3 cm include the thickness of the frame, the required gap between the door leaf, and a possible adjustment of the box with the door leaf relative to the floor on which the door is supposed to be installed. After all, no matter how you level the floor, and no matter how smoothly you try to lay the tiles, you must take into account the unevenness of the tile itself. Any 2-3 mm. may not be visible to your eye, but when installing a door, they can play a role. In this case, the height should be 2.08 - 2.09m.

Now let's talk about other thresholds. Those that are made of brick, just mortar or other materials, and then tiled. Whether such a threshold is needed or not is up to you, but its dimensions should be taken into account when calculating the height of the doorway.

After all the necessary measurements, it sometimes happens that even without a threshold, the door does not fit into the existing doorway. In this case, you can take into consideration the following options for further actions.

You can increase the height of the doorway to the desired size, or reduce the length of the door leaf by carefully cutting it. Upon availability necessary tools, it will not be difficult for experienced master... The only exceptions are doors with glass inserts from below and to the top. In this case, you will have to change your choice in favor of another door.

So is a threshold in the bathroom necessary?

Let's return to the question of whether it is necessary or not threshold in the bathroom ? One of the main arguments in favor of installing it is that the threshold will serve as an obstacle for water to flow through the apartment in the event of a leak. But only a tiled threshold will save you from this misfortune. The threshold from ordinary water will not stop, unless a sufficiently tight fit is provided from the inside door frame and platbands to the floor, the abutments of which are coated with a water-repellent sealant. Otherwise, water will find a way out. In addition, the door frame will absorb water and swell strongly, which will entail its deformation, and as a result - difficulty in opening and closing the door.

Thresholds are purely aesthetic benefits when viewed from the side of the bathroom entrance. A big problem is finishing the junction of the tiles on the bathroom floor and linoleum (laminate) in the corridor. The difference in level is very difficult to hide with high quality and beautifully. All kinds of trims sold for these purposes look very poor. Thresholds solve this problem very simply. From the side of the bathroom - a tile that passes to the threshold, from the side of the corridor any other flooring to the threshold, the adjoining to which is hidden by the baseboard.

Apartment - odnushka in KOPE '96. It is tempting, of course, to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom, but just in case I want to consult with experienced people. What problems can arise if the plumbing is removed?

false mirror

Good day. My problem is a crooked mirror in the bathroom. I noticed this moment a long time ago, but I am not at all ready to give up the mirror, because it comes with a single cabinet that fits in my small bathroom. Interested in the reasons - why does it distort? and how to resolve this issue? Here are the versions that I heard on the phone at the firms in St. Petersburg dealing with mirrors: 1. It is necessary to change the mirror itself. There are 2 options: they make a mirror for me, I glue it to the base (the issue price is 1000) and they make a mirror for me and change it on the base (3200). 2. Everything must be changed - I heard the version that any mirror will distort if it is glued to an uneven base. An uneven base is very plausible in my case, because the whole set of furniture is Chinese for Russia (. I will not change it - it is simply unrealistic to find a curbstone at 55. It is simply unrealistic to change a mirror with a base - to pick up or order something in a light wooden frame - the question price is from 1000 to infinity) ... What to do? Has anyone encountered such a "problem"? For information - I have 2 identical curved mirrors - ...

hotel redevelopment

Dear players, I ask for help in solving next question... This apartment is supposed to be converted into a hotel for tourists (2-3 people, possibly with children), rented accordingly as a hotel room. Therefore, the question is: is it possible to redevelop this apartment so that "everyone is comfortable with the least effort"? I would not really like to tear down the walls between the room and the entrance, although (according to preliminary forecasts) they are not load-bearing inside. Is it possible to do without moving the door? The apartment has a separate entrance, the door is basically moved. Thank!

Please help with the design of the living room in the kopeck piece

The room is 3m wide and 5.7m long. One wall is 5.7 bearing, the second is 3 m with a window located in the middle. From one side 1m to the wall, from the second 0.5m (to the carrier). The two remaining walls are plasterboard. The doors are located along the length of the plasterboard wall at a distance of 1 m from the second plasterboard wall... Standard 800mm doors open to the inside of the room. In principle, we planned to deliver corner sofa with side length without roller for 3m wall. There they pasted the wallpaper into a drawing (with a rotation to fit the sofa). It was planned to put a 40 "TV under the window in the corner where the 1m wall is. Wardrobes didn't plan here. Something you want, but what looks like you can't do without expert advice. All I come across is a TV on the wall or on a bedside table on a long wall, but this doesn't suit us. I would like to color range furniture. The wallpaper is already covered with light beige. To fit the size of the sofa, the corner is glued with wallpaper with a pattern, complete with the main ones. Doors light oak. The beige sofa is a tone darker than the wallpaper. Thanks in advance for the expert advice.