More and more people prefer to improve the interior with a false ceiling. GKL overlapping is best done in rooms with a low percentage of humidity. Moisture-resistant material is used for sheathing the false ceiling in the bathroom and kitchen. For such purposes, plastic is best suited, since suspended ceiling made of PVC panels is characterized by a number of positive properties compared to other finishes.

Advantages of PVC panels

Plastic is a common material used directly in the arrangement. This trend is not surprising, since plastic has such positive properties:

  • PVC panel is inexpensive compared to other building materials.
  • Relatively simple installation.
  • High moisture resistance. Plastic does not absorb moisture.
  • The material retains its properties when using cleaning agents.
  • Plastic endures chemical substances without losing their properties.
  • Sheathing a false ceiling with PVC panels allows you to hide the details of the ceiling, improving the appearance of the room.
  • Good soundproofing.
  • Easy installation, which allows you to do the work yourself.
  • Extensive color palette makes it possible to choose best option suspended ceiling.

Flaws

Like any building material, along with the advantages of plastic, there are also negative qualities. The main disadvantages are:

  • Specific smell. After installing the false ceiling, the smell of plastic remains for some time.
  • There is a possibility of deformation with a sharp temperature difference.
  • The impact can damage the plastic.
  • Plastic does not belong to the category of natural materials, so this kind of material is not recommended to be mounted on the ceiling in residential premises.

Important! Plastic is no longer as prestigious as it was when it was introduced to the market, as there are many better materials out there.

Varieties of material

According to the characteristics of plastic, there are three types.

  • White. This type includes unpainted material.
  • Color.
  • textured. A feature of this type is that a special texture is applied to the surface, giving the material a natural effect. Such plastic is much more expensive. The ceiling covering, trimmed with textured plastic, looks presentable and expensive.

Assembly tools

To make an installation ceiling, you need to prepare materials and tools.

You will need:

  • Profile or bars for the future frame.
  • Plinth. Its direct purpose is to fasten the panels.
  • Dowels, self-tapping screws.
  • Screwdriver.
  • Hacksaw.
  • corners.

Preparatory work

Before installation, you need to perform preparatory work. Without them, the following situations are possible:

  • If a beginner in the construction business does not check the surface, extra materials may be purchased.
  • If the ceiling covering is uneven and there has been no preparation, it is unlikely that the ceiling will be installed correctly.

Important! Gotta follow the rules preparatory work in order to avoid additional expenses and in order to save time and effort.

Frame installation


Stages of installation work:

  • Install the frame (wooden or metal).
  • Attach the PVC skirting board to the crate.
  • Install the panels in the plinth and fix them.

Important! If a collapsible plinth is chosen, then the decorative part of the baguette must be fixed last, after attaching the panel.

"skeleton" device

Sheathing of the floor is impossible without fixing the frame. The best option is a metal frame. For the design, it is best to take the ud and cd profile. Such profiles help to quickly create a frame and align it.

To mount the "skeleton", metal is used, since wood is not as durable as metal. The tree is deformed by temperature changes. When choosing a material for the frame, the selection rules are followed, since the durability of the structure depends on the material chosen.

Before installing the suspended frame on the ceiling, markings are made. For these purposes, a level is used. Marks are placed on the wall under the ceiling, along which the guide profile is installed.

You need to fix it with dowels or self-tapping screws, depending on the material of the walls. (Mounting pitch - 400 mm).

The next step is the installation of stiffeners. To carry out such manipulations, the following steps are followed:

  • The stiffeners are laid in the guide profile. Subsequently, panels will be attached to them. Create a frame perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels.

Important! In advance, you need to determine the direction of laying the panels. To make the seams less visible, follow the installation rules (begin laying the panel along the wall with the window).

  • The carrier profile is cut, focusing on the dimensions of the room. The installation step of such a profile is 500-700 mm.
  • It is impossible to perfectly sheathe the ceiling with PVC panels if the frame is not stiffened.
  • After the frame is assembled, it is fixed. If a metal profile is used, then the first element is installed at a distance of 350 mm from the wall. You must strictly follow this rule, since such an important nuance allows you to give the frame stability.

Panel mounting


The right device design depends on the direct installation of the first sheet of plastic panel. Before directly installing the panel on the frame suspended structure carefully check all parameters to avoid errors. Fasten the panel with staples or self-tapping screws. All subsequent panels must be fixed parallel to the first.


Fixing the PVC panel with screws

Installation of plastic plinth, pros and cons

The meticulous work is the installation plastic plinth around the entire circumference of the room. Sometimes there is a detachable plinth. Its peculiarity is that the decorative edging and the part into which the panel is inserted are supplied separately. At the end of the installation of the plinth, these parts are connected by a latch. If you follow the installation rules, then installing the skirting board will not take much time and effort.

Important! If there is no experience in installing the plinth, in this case it is worth choosing detachable models.


Plastic ceiling plinth

Ceiling from plastic panels- one of the options for a quick top finish in any room. It will look equally good in the bathroom, bathroom, balcony, loggia, and living rooms. Even if the next repair is planned in the distant future, then familiarize yourself with how to do quality ceiling from plastic panels on their own, it will be useful.

Harmful or not

There are conflicting opinions about whether a PVC panel ceiling is harmful when used in places where people are predominant. Moving away from the subjectivity of assessments, we can state:

  1. Today, plastic is used everywhere in everyday life - from the packaging of goods to kitchen utensils. In the production of panels, raw materials used for the medical and food groups of goods are used, which undergo mandatory certification.
  2. The structure of the product has no pores. Bacteria and microorganisms do not have conditions for cultivation. That is why the Sanitary and Epidemiological Service recommends panels for use in the buildings of the Ministry of Health and other institutions with mass visits to the population.
  3. Plastic is easily kept clean with simple household products. At the same time, user properties and aesthetic qualities are not lost.
  4. The flash point of PVC used for panel production is 360°C. At the same time, chipboard, fiberboard, OSB, which are often used for repair, enter the combustion process at 250°C. The emission of smoke from the latter is 40-50% higher.
  5. The plastic ceiling "does not breathe", that is, it does not let air through, does not deform, and condensate is not removed. It is a fact. But all apartments and modern private houses are equipped with ventilation. The same applies to houses of old construction, where the owner is allocated space for bathrooms and sanitary facilities, if they were not provided for when the building was sublined. The issue of air exchange and humidity control is not solved at the expense of the ceiling part of the room.

Thus, the assertion that the use of plastic panels destroys the microclimate of the room and is potentially dangerous for people to stay has no basis.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

PVC ceiling panels are classified according to several criteria:

  1. The density of the material.
  2. The size of the element.
  3. Connection type.
  4. Color and texture design.

The connection type determines whether the finish will have a visible seam or be seamless. The method of final processing endows the product with color and texture, and the surface can be:

  • monophonic, not fading when exposed to ultraviolet light;
  • lacquered, with a special coating that gives a special shine, but scratches can spoil appearance;
  • printed pattern with many patterns, but the plastic is soft. And the service life is limited;
  • laminated, completely repeating natural materials and their derivatives, subject to delamination with prolonged direct exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

All options are resistant to water or steam, do not change the structure at moderate temperature changes.


In the manufacture of PVC panels for the ceiling, manufacturers are guided by standardized dimensions, where the width can be 100, 200, 250 mm, length - 2700, 3000, 4000 and 6000 mm, with a thickness of 10 mm.

The presented photos show design options for the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, bedroom, hallway and corridor.

Advice! The service life, in addition to the recommended conditions of use, depends on the density of the elements. Almost all panels are in an affordable price category, but less dense (soft) panels are cheaper. Savings when buying can lead to new expenses in the near future.

Preparatory activities

Like others Finishing work during repairs, it will not be possible to fix the panels on the ceiling without preliminary preparation. It is necessary to carry out a number of activities:

  1. Calculate the number of panels, accessories, fasteners. In terms of taking into account the placement of fixtures, wiring routing.
  2. Check the readiness of the tool and accessories.
  3. Free the room from furniture that interferes with the pre-treatment of the ceiling and direct installation.
  4. Delete from ceiling surface remnants of the old finish.
  5. Check wiring. In its deplorable state, and also if a change in the position of lighting devices is planned, they are dismantled, having previously disconnected the input wires from the electrical network.
  6. Inspect the ceiling for defects. Pay special attention to the joints of the floor slabs, the joints of the walls from the side of the street. Putty cracks.
  7. Prime the ceiling plane with antibacterial mixtures.

Attention! If the installation is planned to be carried out on suspensions (suspended ceiling), then the scope of these activities is sufficient. But in the case of fastening the guides directly to the ceiling, they additionally level the plane with gypsum-based putty.

Calculation principles

A simple mathematical calculation makes it possible to acquire required amount panels and others Supplies. First of all, the installation area is determined by multiplying the length and width of the room. Then the result is divided by the area of ​​one PVC part, and the required number of parts is obtained. 10-15% should be added to the result obtained, rounding the value to the whole panel. This reserve is useful in case of erroneous dissolution or installation flaws.


The following is calculated:

  • purchase volume of the ceiling profile, as well as suspensions (fixing interval 500-600 mm);
  • the length of the starting profile, where it is equal to the length of the perimeter and 100 mm of margin;
  • dowels, if the metal profile is fastened in increments of 500 mm;
  • self-tapping screws, at a consumption piece / meter, respectively, 1 / 0.5.

Additionally, you should purchase a profile for connecting the end parts of the panels, internal and external corners for joining the structure.

Tools and accessories

To perform work, prepare the following tools and accessories:

  1. Hole drilling. It can be an electric or hand drill, a semi-professional or professional screwdriver with a set of drills, bits.
  2. Dissolution of blanks. Carpentry knife, hacksaw with blade for cutting metal.
  3. Measurements and markings. Roulette, building level, twine, marker or pencil. Suspensions.
  4. Metal profile for mounting ceiling structures: UD - 25/25 mm and CD - 25/60 mm in the estimated quantity.

Advice! Repair is a planned event. Therefore, it is recommended to prepare the tool and purchase consumables in advance.

How to install a false ceiling made of plastic

There are several options for attaching panels. A simple one is represented by a straight lathing of the ceiling surface with a beam with an interval of 500-600 mm, a sequential lock assembly of panels. This option is applicable if, as a result of preliminary preparation, the surface is leveled close to ideal, as well as with low ceilings. But it should be borne in mind that the wooden beam "takes" moisture, deforms. Therefore, the plane of the finish surface will undergo a change.


Another way is a do-it-yourself suspended ceiling made of plastic panels using a metal profile. In this case, the design will not lose consumer properties at any humidity and temperature changes. It is about him that will be discussed further.

Assembling the frame

Work begins with markup. To do this, use previously prepared measuring and marker accessories. The order is presented as follows:

  1. Fix the height of all corners and the value in the center of the room (floor - ceiling).
  2. The lowest angle compared to the base values ​​will be the starting point. It is from him that the gap of the formed interceiling space is measured (ceiling - panel). For the convenience of attaching the cord, fix the point by screwing in a self-tapping screw.
  3. Using a level and a cord, they “beat off” the plane to the entire perimeter of the room, where the outlined line will be the junction of the plastic structure.
  4. On the opposite walls, places for placing metal profiles are added. Planned intervals are not more than 500 mm.
  5. Lastly, mark the places of installation of suspensions. It is important to apply the markup with maximum accuracy, since it is difficult to eliminate flaws during installation.

It should be checked whether there are any hidden electrical wiring. To do this, use a special detector or seek help from a professional electrician. Further activities include:

  • along the wall markings, the guide profile is fastened along the entire perimeter, with the exception of the side where the installation is planned to be completed, to facilitate the fitting of the end plate;
  • at previously designated places, holes are drilled for dowels, and suspensions are attached;
  • next, cut the profile to the desired length, insert it into the guides, fix it with screws on the hangers;
  • carry out constant control of the horizon of the plane with the help of a stretched cord.

Attention! This stage of work completes the wiring tracing, and if planned, communications. It is recommended to place the wires in special corrugated sleeves. Their use allows you to timely identify the wiring when drilling, simplifies complete replacement parts of the wire and additionally protects against moisture penetration.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

Panels on the ceiling are installed perpendicular to the rails in the following order:

  1. Measure the distance between the guide profiles. Transfer measurements by markup to the panel. Cut off excess. To do this, use a sharp knife or a hacksaw with a fine tooth and a thin blade.
  2. On the cut edges, the notches are removed with fine-grained sandpaper. The panel is released from individual packaging, if it has not been previously removed.
  3. One end is inserted into the starting profile, palatal bent, the second end is placed in the opposite wall mount.
  4. With a little effort, move the plastic element to the installed perpendicular mount. Thus, it is fixed in three planes.
  5. On the side with the locking device, the lower part is fixed to the crate with a self-tapping screw.
  6. Repeat the operation with the next panel, with the difference that it is necessary to ensure an accurate hit in the grooves along the entire length of the part.
  7. On panels to be installed lighting fixtures, drill technical holes of the recommended diameter. In order to avoid unintentional fracture of the plane, the work is carried out with extreme care, avoiding excessive physical effort.
  8. Similarly, elements are installed along the entire length of the room, while the installation of the end panel has some features.

Installation of a plastic lining on the ceiling is presented in the following video:

Installation of the last panel and plinth

The last panel for the ceiling is placed in the rest of the space completely in very rare cases, as a rule, trimming is required. The procedure is presented as follows:

  • carry out accurate measurements on both sides of the panel, a small error could occur during installation;
  • measurements are transferred to the workpiece, the points are connected with a piece of the profile and cut off;
  • together with the finishing wall profile, they are placed in a pants place;
  • the latter is fixed with an adhesive mixture "liquid nails".

Ceiling plinth is a mandatory attribute of a plastic ceiling. Molding gives a finished look to the room, provides a smooth transition of wall and ceiling planes. To properly fit the baguette at the corners, you need a miter box. If not, then one of the simple markup techniques will suffice. You can use a sheet of notebook in a box. It depicts two lines intersecting in the center. Then they draw the bisectors of the corners and get the 450 necessary for even trimming.

Advice! Before fixing with an adhesive solution, a preliminary fitting is carried out. If necessary, the butt ends are adjusted additionally.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

are finishing installation work for the installation of plastic panels for the ceiling by gluing skirting boards and sealing acrylic gaps. After installing the last panel, as a rule, it becomes necessary to seal the joint. At the same time, to make the ceiling plane look monolithic, the joints are filled with acrylic compounds. The order of work is presented as follows:

  1. It is possible to carry out a culling by a preliminary inspection of the entire plane, but it is more practical to visually divide the plane into squares, and sequentially seal all the cracks as you move through the sections.
  2. It is recommended to eliminate flaws with a construction gun with a tube filled with acrylic.
  3. Simultaneous filling of cracks is carried out in small areas (350-450 mm). Excess is removed immediately, the seam is leveled.
  4. The acrylic hardening rate is quite high, therefore, if the area where the composition was placed is missed and it has time to dry, it is carefully removed with a spatula or knife, followed by rubbing the place with warm water.

Attention! The drying of this type of grouting material is accompanied by a slight shrinkage, and it may be necessary to re-grout the flaws after the first layer has completely dried, that is, 7-11 hours.

Fixtures in the ceiling made of plastic

Change finishing ceiling makes it possible to check the condition of electrical wiring, change the location of lighting fixtures, install modern models. If the ceiling in the bathroom is made of plastic panels, then it is possible to zoning the lighting without damaging the wall tiles, place the wires discreetly above the panels.


When tracing and connecting peripheral electrical devices on your own, you must adhere to safety rules, namely:

  1. Dismantling and subsequent work is carried out after disconnecting the room from the general electrical network. To make sure that there is no voltage, a household “probe-indicator” in the form of a screwdriver will help.
  2. It is recommended to pre-prepare an electrical wiring diagram for the location of lighting devices, switches.
  3. Wires for new wiring are purchased with a cross section corresponding to the maximum load when all devices are turned on. Consultation on this issue can be obtained from trade organizations.
  4. In places where lamps and switches are connected, a wire is left with a margin - the “loop” will come in handy if you have to carry out repair work or change equipment if it malfunctions.
  5. After tracing the wires, it is useful, without connecting to the network, to check the correct execution of the circuit using a household voltmeter.

Attention! If House master no experience self-assembly wiring and connecting appliances, avoid accidents from hitting electric shock in the process of subsequent operation, a professional electrician should be invited.

Features of the selection and installation of fixtures for 220 V

When choosing lighting fixtures, consider the following:

  1. The ignition temperature of plastic is high and it is almost impossible to achieve it by contact with a light bulb. But exceeding the heating rate will lead to melting of the seat, a change in color, structure and the appearance of a smell. In this regard, light bulbs with a power not exceeding 40 watts are used.
  2. The security parameters of the lighting device itself. Their importance increases when used in rooms with increased level humidity. Therefore, it is recommended to use lamps with a protection level of at least IP44.
  3. Based on safety requirements, it is impossible to place lighting devices closer than half a meter to the location of the bathroom or shower.
  4. The switchboard of lighting fixtures in rooms with high humidity is located outside the room.
  5. Places for the installation of fixtures are prepared in the process of direct installation of panels. The diameter of the seat for the lighting system, depending on the brand and manufacturer, ranges from 58-74 mm. There are two ways to make a hole.

The first is represented by the use of a suitable wood crown.

The second one takes a little more time, but does not require the use of a special tool. The installation site is marked with an ordinary compass. A small incision is made with a sharp knife, and the contour is cut out with a household jigsaw. With all the increase in the time for the procedure, the probability of damage to the panel as a result of inaccurate use of an electric drilling tool is significantly reduced.

Halogen and LED

A twelve-volt supply voltage distinguishes halogen and LED lighting devices from standard ones, and to create it, a step-down transformer is included in the electrical supply network. The place of its installation should exclude the possibility of penetration of condensate, and even more so water. Safety requirements provide for the installation of a separate automatic fuse, with a rating of at least 8 A.


When determining the number of sources spot lighting in any premises where it is planned to mount a plastic ceiling with a height of more than 2.6 meters, consider the following:

  • the lighting cone when they are turned on does not exceed an angle of 300;
  • for good light density, lamps are installed at intervals of no more than one meter;
  • the distance from the wall plane to the first lama is 0.6 m or more;
  • to connect groups of lamps, special pads are used; even soldered “twisting” is not recommended;
  • to ensure accurate polarity at the power terminals of the device, it is necessary to trace the wire uniformly, for example, black - plus, white - minus, wire with a notch - "ground";
  • when attaching lamps to the frame, be sure to use special devices(latches, clamps).

The installation procedure for a spotlight is as follows:

  1. Separate the base part from the light element.
  2. The block is connected to the wire terminals.
  3. The light element is placed in a regular place and the function is checked.
  4. With a positive result, the spotlight is fixed to the base with clamps.
  5. Installation of a decorative lining and a thermal insulator completes the installation. It should be noted that the designs of fixtures have differences, and therefore it is recommended to study the instructions for the device before installation.

How to install lighting elements presents the following videos:

Conclusion

The presented material indicates that the plastic ceiling, for domestic use, is no more dangerous to humans than chipboard panels, while it has a number of advantages. One of them is represented by the possibility of self-assembly, without the need to purchase special tools and accessories. A wide palette of panel colors allows you to create a ceiling for many interior styles.

Gallery of finished works

Any start of repair and construction work requires proper and careful planning. This is especially true in the case when the installation of PVC panels is carried out independently.

Most often, this material is used for finishing rooms with high humidity, for example, in a kitchen, a bathroom or in a corridor.

The construction market is represented in a wide color scheme, so with their help you can finish the ceiling in other rooms.

To perform the work, you will need to purchase or rent the following tools:

  • hammer drill or powerful impact drill;
  • electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
  • screwdriver;
  • measuring instruments;
  • hammer;
  • laser or water level;
  • building level;
  • miter box and square;
  • metal scissors;
  • stapler.

In addition to the tool, you will need to purchase everything necessary materials and only then proceed to the installation work.

Panel fixing methods

There are several ways, while among themselves they will differ in the type of base on which the installation is performed.

  • Metal carcass.

In this case, the crate is made of a metal profile. It has high strength and durability. The only drawback of this option is that the height of the room is reduced by 5-7 cm, so it is not recommended to use it in a room with low ceilings. After mounting the frame, the panels are fixed using self-tapping screws with wide caps.

Two-level metal frame

  • Frame made of wooden elements.

You can make a crate of wooden beams. The advantages of this option are that it is easier and faster to work with a tree, the cost of such elements will be lower. Speaking of disadvantages wooden frame, then he is afraid of moisture and even after treatment with antiseptics, his service life will be less than that of metal profiles.

If you buy perfectly even bars, then their cost will not be lower than that of galvanized ones, and cheap material has bumps, so you will have to work hard during work to get a smooth surface. In damp rooms, the use of a wooden frame is not recommended.

TO wooden crate can be fastened with self-tapping screws, but installation is much easier and faster with a stapler and staples.

Wooden frame

  • Plastic crate.

The plastic crate has a long service life, light weight and is easy to work with. The cost of such elements is not cheaper than galvanized ones, but nothing can be installed on them, except for PVC panels. Over time, drywall, MDF boards or other materials can be mounted on a metal crate.

The panels are attached to the crate with special clamps, which makes it easy to install them, and when necessary, you can quickly dismantle the entire structure and install it in another place.

Finishing with plastic on a wooden crate

  • Fixing PVC panels directly to the ceiling surface.

In modern apartments, the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete slabs, if the joints are well sealed, then the surface is perfectly flat. In such situations, they do without a supporting frame and mount the panels directly to the ceiling, doing this with the help of “Liquid Nails”.

To simplify the work, you first need to apply glue to the panel and leave it for 5-7 minutes. During this time, the glue will grab a little, after which the element is pressed tightly against the ceiling and it is securely fixed. To ensure maximum structural strength, it is recommended to apply two layers of primer to the ceiling surface and only then mount the panels.

No matter what material is used to create the frame, the supporting profiles, in any case, must be perpendicular to the panels to be mounted.

Installation steps

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling is divided into several stages:

  • purchase of necessary materials;
  • preparing a set of tools;
  • surface marking;
  • installation of the crate;
  • laying electrical wiring for connecting lighting;
  • panel installation;
  • installation of lamps.

Preparation for work

At this stage, the surface of the ceiling is inspected and its condition is determined. If it is perfectly even, then you should not purchase materials for the crate, since the panels can be fixed directly to the ceiling with glue.

If the ceiling is uneven or it is planned to lay communication under the ceiling space, then you will have to make a crate. In this case, markings are made on the walls to install the starting profile (they retreat 5-6 cm from the ceiling), to mount the supporting frame materials (the distance between them is 60 cm).

Installation of a wooden frame

Before starting work, all wooden products are treated with an antiseptic. Attached to the wall according to the markup wooden slats, which will serve as an emphasis for the slats. The distance from the ceiling to the rail is about 5-6 cm, it all depends on the section used for the frame of the wooden beam.

Plastic ceilings in the bathroom can also be mounted on wood

According to the markings on the ceiling, wooden beams are installed, their fastening to the surface is carried out using dowels. If there are irregularities, installation can be performed load-bearing structure on suspensions, while the ceiling level will decrease by a few centimeters.

Installation of a metal frame

Instead of a wooden frame, a structure made of galvanized profiles can be used, it has more high reliability and long service life.

According to the markings on the walls, a wall profile having a U-shape is fixed along the perimeter of the room. If the ceiling is even, then according to the pre-made markup, the supporting profiles can be fixed directly to it. If there are irregularities on the ceiling, the profiles are mounted on metal hangers.

Metal crate

After installing the wall profile, take the bar of the supporting element, insert it into the grooves of the wall profiles located on opposite walls and fix it on hangers using self-tapping screws. Using a level, set the bar parallel to the floor.

starting bar and ceiling plinth made in such a way that their supporting part is slightly wider, this is necessary so that the screws or brackets that fasten the bar are screwed into the specified extension.

Lighting installation

After creating the frame, it is necessary to lay the wiring. Usually it is carried out in special corrugated pipes, which are attached to the suspensions, and the wire is already laid in them. The ends of the cable are brought out in those places where the installation of fixtures is planned, and having connected to the network, they check the performance of all lighting elements. If this is not done, then later, in case of breakdowns, you will have to disassemble the PVC panels.

Panel fixing

When the installation of the frame is completed and the wiring is laid, you can proceed to fixing the panels.

If there is a wooden or metal frame, they are fixed in the same way, just in the first case, it is easier to do it with brackets, and in the second, with the help of self-tapping screws.

If the crate is plastic, then the panels are fixed to the clamps.

To cut the panels, it is necessary to use a blade with fine teeth, usually a hacksaw is used.

First, the first panel is installed close to the wall, aligned, and then fixed to each carrier profile. The next panel is inserted into its groove, pressed well so that the minimum gap remains and fixed again, thus mounting all the trim elements.

The last panel may not fully enter, then you will have to carefully cut it in width. The fixation of this element is usually carried out not at the joint, but through the top. Then the screw head or bracket will hide behind the ceiling plinth.

It remains to install the fixtures, the ceiling plinth and the ceiling is ready.

The technology for performing these works is not complex and laborious. PVC panels are available in a wide range of colors, which allows you to choose them for any interior, and the affordable cost and high performance material, make PVC ceiling panels the most popular and easiest option.

Related video

PVC - polyvinyl chloride material, that is, easier - plastic - one of the most popular and diverse building materials in modern construction. Such material can be made of any shape, any design, with predetermined properties. PVC panels are lightweight, durable, strong, temperature-resistant products for quick interior decoration. This is a great alternative to wood. How to work with PVC panels? Let's try to figure it out.

What's Good About PVC Panel Ceiling?

It is very important to distinguish PVC panels for ceilings from panels for walls, because wall panels are much heavier in weight than ceiling panels. Order for - the most common among teams for finishing apartments. What are the distinctive advantages of finishing the ceiling with PVC panels from any other finishes?

Here are the most typical reasons for this choice:

  • cheap: PVC material is one of the simplest and most affordable, besides, by mounting them on the ceiling, you can avoid the use of a large amount of plaster, gypsum and other expensive materials. And just this option is a great opportunity to save on labor costs;
  • easily: You can even install PVC panels on your own - this is not difficult in terms of technology. Therefore, such a choice reduces the cost of effort and materials, and most importantly - time;
  • ease of use: such a ceiling can be removed at any time to wash or wipe. That is, they are almost ideal in care. They can be partially disassembled and assembled, anything can be hidden under them: wiring, ventilation, insulation;
  • resistance to moisture or damage. The ceiling of the panels can simply be wiped, dried, and the damaged socket can be replaced with a new one. If it happens that the neighbors flood from above, you won’t have to redo everything from scratch;
  • aesthetically: The PVC ceiling is perfect in appearance, it hides all the bumps and flaws, which cannot be said about whitewashing and painting.
  • They differ from lining and sheet in size: it is from 15 to 50 cm in width, and the standard is 3 m in length. They also differ in the way the pattern is applied to them:

    • hot roll using thermal film;
    • paints with varnish to give a glossy effect;
    • applying a pattern under wood or marble using topographic printing;
    • production of mirror or light-transmitting ceilings using polycarbonate and polystyrene.

    To choose good PVC panels in a store, you need to take into account their appearance, smell, shape, correct geometry, clarity of coating and color, resistance to bending. A good panel will not leave marks on itself after 3-4 bends, will not stink much with plastic and will have a sufficient number of stiffening ribs, which can be seen on the panel cut. It is also worth carefully inspecting the product for notches and irregularities: good material they definitely shouldn't be.

    Advice. are used not only as a finish for joints, but also bring their own zest to the interior.

    What tools will be needed

    To properly and efficiently install PVC panels on the ceiling, you will need the following materials and tools:

    • hacksaw and jigsaw for shortening panels, forming cutouts for lamps;
    • for wood - drill, for concrete ceiling- perforator;
    • standard set of screwdrivers, screwdrivers;
    • mallet or hammer for fitting forms;
    • level to determine a clear horizontal ceiling - meter size and half a meter;
    • masking tape, tape measure, pencil;
    • construction stapler;
    • self-tapping screws, nails, assembly glue;
    • ladder or building timber (stool).

    How to start installing a PVC ceiling

    In order for the ceiling to have something to hold on to, you first need to fix a rigid profile on the wall, at a level of 10-20 cm from the ceiling. So, step by step:

  1. Use the level to measure the horizontal fastening of rigid profiles on the wall along the perimeter of the room.
  2. Attach the profile to the walls using self-tapping screws and pre-drilled holes with a perforator.
  3. We insert a PVC product into the frame, measuring along the length, cutting the profile strips to the size of the ceiling. After mounting the first strip, insert another one, carefully fitting it to the first one so that it fits clearly into the grooves. All profile panels are screwed with screws onto a frame lying on the ceiling - usually it is made of aluminum or wooden beams. The number of screws and attaching the panel to the beams depends on the size of the room: the wider the ceiling, the more attachment points.
  4. The most crucial step in mounting the ceiling is the last panel. Usually the width of the strip is not clearly included in the size, so we cut the panel to the desired width along. We stick adhesive tape on it and, pulling this adhesive tape, you need to tighten the panel under the grooves of the penultimate plank.
  5. It is necessary to plant a frame or a ceiling plinth on liquid nails, remove the remaining glue with a rag.
  6. Installation nuances

    In order for the new ceiling with beautiful PVC panels to fit neatly into the grooves of the L-shaped profile, you must adhere to the following rules:

  • be sure to use the level to measure a perfectly flat horizontal line;
  • in order for the L-shaped frame to hold better around the perimeter of the ceiling, you need to plant it on a small amount of the rotband mixture, and remove the excess amount and wait for the mixture to dry;
  • the installation of plastic strips must be started from the wall, not forgetting about internal communications - wires for lamps, holes for the air conditioner, and so on.

Useful. How to properly cut and connect the corners of the ceiling plinth - in our review.

What installation errors should be avoided?

It is better to use an aluminum frame instead of bars and beams - then these lintels will not change their shape from moisture - aluminum from steam will not bend or rust, and the tree may eventually break the structure.

Cutting a hole for the lamp

It is also worth noting that hastily installers can fasten the panels with staples from a staple gun, but this is not a reliable method of fastening, it is better to do it with self-tapping screws.

It is especially worth thinking about the reliability of fastening if you choose as a finishing material.


It is difficult to do without updating the ceiling surface when it comes to a full-fledged repair. And although there are a dime a dozen worthy alternatives in the niche market, installing PVC panels on the ceiling is still one of the most popular options. In many ways, due to the ease and accessibility of the work itself, as well as the absence of serious requirements for the selection of improvised tools. How to install pvc panels on the ceiling with your own hands will be discussed in our detailed article-instruction. All the necessary photo and video materials will help you.

Material selection

Before the direct installation of pvc panels on the ceiling surface, it’s still like before the moon, until you decide on the color, texture and size of the material. Each hardware store will immediately offer you a wide range of plastic panels, so not choosing the right option for yourself is a must. However, here are some tips to help you make the right purchase:

  • for small rooms, select panels with a width of no more than 25 centimeters, for large rooms - more than 25 centimeters, respectively;
  • pay attention to the product specification: ceiling panels, despite the visual similarity, differ from wall panels in their lighter weight;
  • ordinary white panels are most often used for finishing public and home bathrooms, for other options it is best to choose colored or textured options - visually they can support even the most interesting and non-trivial interior;
  • if the task is to visually enlarge the room, which cannot boast of a decent area, the ideal choice would be panels with a glossy surface, which significantly work to create volume and depth;
  • choose panels with a hidden seam - this way your ceiling will look more monolithic, but if you are going to use a whole cascade of built-in lamps, then it is quite possible to allow the purchase of a material with a dedicated seam, the main thing is to correctly fit it into the interior composition.

What is needed for installation?

Everything you need for installation is listed below in an easy-to-view list:

  1. self-tapping screws;
  2. anchor bolts;
  3. dowel;
  4. bars (for a wooden frame);
  5. ceiling plinth;
  6. CD and UD profiles;
  7. crab hangers.

Tool preparation

Check if everything necessary tools at your fingertips. So, you will need:

  • roulette;
  • pencil, marker;
  • level;
  • paint cord;
  • corner;
  • metal scissors;
  • jigsaw;
  • perforator (drill);
  • screwdriver

Foundation preparation

  1. remove all fixtures and chandeliers mounted earlier;
  2. mark the wiring points with a marker;
  3. take away from concrete base ceiling surface all the dirt and dust.

markup

  • determine with the help of the level the lowest point of the base of the ceiling;
  • step back 5 cm and mark a point that will serve as the level of your future ceiling;
  • draw a line around the entire perimeter of the premises using a paint cord or a hydraulic level;
  • your markup for making a frame for pvc panels is ready.

Frame preparation

The frame for the subsequent installation of PVC panels can be made of wooden blocks, plastic or metal profiles. The decision on this issue is made only by you, but it is impossible not to cancel the generally recognized fact: in rooms with high humidity it is best to use metal profiles(read more about the technology of installing PVC panel ceilings in the bathroom), which are not as afraid of moisture as ordinary bars.

Frame made of wooden beams it will cost you about two times cheaper than metal, and it will assemble a little faster. True, you need to pick up bars with a cross section of at least 3 by 3 cm.

The nuance that you need to pay attention to: the price of perfectly even bars is equal to the price of finished metal profiles.

How much do you value your time spent on finishing the curved bars?

However, if you still successfully coped with uneven bars, then your next step is to fix them to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. Observe step 60 cm, and if you want to bring the plane perfectly into level, then prudently drive in the extreme strips and pull the nylon cords from them into the center and along the edges. Already in accordance with the stretched cords, drive in the rest of the bars in the same way, observing the minimum required step 50 cm.

Lathing of plastic U-shaped profiles it will cost you about the same amount as a metal one, but it is far from universal: if you later want to change the pvc panels to some other material, you will have to prepare the frame again.

Here's how it looks in the picture.

And here's how it is in reality.

The principle of fastening to the base is the same as that of the frame on wooden bars with the only difference that fixing should be done with the help of fixing screws through pre-mounted wedges. The advantage of this option is the amazing convenience of direct installation of PVC panels, which are easily driven into the groove. Well, we have already mentioned the disadvantages above.

The most common frame design is from metal profiles.

Here we will not reveal anything new to you:

  1. the longitudinal CD profile is inserted into the opposite grooves of the guide UD profile;
  2. with the help of crab hangers, the longitudinal CD profile is additionally fixed to the ceiling with anchor bolts;
  3. step for installing suspensions - from 60 to 80 centimeters;
  4. step for fixing profiles - 50-60 centimeters.

Installation of plastic panels

  1. we fasten to the frame around the entire perimeter a ceiling plinth with a mounting groove using self-tapping screws;
  2. we insert the first panel with a spike inside the starting profile and fix it on the guide bar with a self-tapping screw, bracket or kleimer - depending on which type of construction you have chosen;
  3. the installation of the next panel does not bring anything new: it is inserted into the groove of the previous one with a spike, pressed against the guides and fixed at the back;
  4. the last panel is the most difficult, and in order to accurately install it, you need to cut it in length and then cut it in width in accordance with your measurements, and then carry out direct installation;
  5. in the case where the last panel is not included, it is always easy to get rid of excess material using a clerical knife.


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