As soon as a new stove is folded in the bath, or repair work on its surface, any attendant asks one question: “How to plaster the stove”?

Under the influence of heat, moisture, expanding stones and bricks when heated, cracks appear on the stove. A small web of cracks gradually turns into solid holes. Therefore, repairing the stove in the bath is a common thing.

No need to wait for the moment when the crack turns into a hole. It's time to get down to business right away. To solve the problem of repairing the furnace, plaster solutions will help. The main purpose of these solutions is to give the Queen the stove its original appearance.

As before, the furnace finishing components are: clay, sand, lime, cement, asbestos. These are binders, and their mixture with water is called a solution.

The most important purpose of binder mortars is to bind the masonry of the furnace together. Required condition to obtain a quality solution, this is a good quality of the starting materials.

Therefore, sand, cement and asbestos must be sifted through a fine sieve before starting work. Clay is pre-soaked in water and filtered through gauze, and then thoroughly mixed until smooth. Clean, dry clay will reduce the strength of the mortar.

An important point in the preparation of solutions for plastering ovens is the correct observance of proportions. The most important ratio of clay and sand is based on the proportion of one part of clay - two parts of sand. The components are mixed in dry form (with the exception of clay), and filled with clay or lime water. The more water you add, the thinner the solution will be, so you need to pour in water carefully, in small portions.

There are many varieties of solutions, I will give recipes for the most popular and simple ones.

Recipes for plasters

For one part of clay, two parts of sand and a tenth of asbestos (0.1 part) are taken.
One part clay is two parts sand, one part lime and one tenth asbestos.
One part clay is two parts sand, one part cement and one tenth asbestos.

The plaster mortar, which contains cement, will be dark in color when dried, so the furnace repair will not end there. The oven will need to be whitewashed.

The solution with lime and asbestos will be white, if it is well leveled when applied to the stove, or as experts say: “wipe”, then whitewashing the stove is not required.

I want to say a few words about the shelf life of solutions, it is limited for any composition. The solution, which includes cement, is only good for an hour. And a solution containing asbestos, or simply gypsum, is only good for 5 minutes. Therefore, you need to work with it very quickly, and if you are new to this business, then I do not recommend using such a plaster mortar.

The tool you need to get the job done

For work, you will need gloves, a mixing container, a construction spatula. Astringent materials do not have a positive effect on the condition of our skin, so it is better to work with gloves.

The mixing container should be free of rust, sharp edges, and you should not feel sorry for it. 🙂 The fact is that plaster solutions are washed quite badly.

Choose a spatula for work at your discretion. For example, it is more convenient for me to work with a medium-sized spatula.

Before starting to putty cracks, be sure to remove the old plaster. Moisten the prepared place with plenty of water, this is necessary for better adhesion of the solution to the surface.

Plastering work is carried out on a cold stove, preferably on a fine, warm day. After carrying out the work, open all the doors in the bath wide open, let the queen-oven dry out in a good way.

As my mother told me: "The eyes are afraid, the hands are doing." Remember, the main principle in this work is this: “If you want to do something well, do it yourself”!

When a new stove and a well-used stove need to be plastered? This is especially true for hot parts of the structure. Therefore, the question of how to plaster the oven is by no means an idle one. There are many recipes, and each has its own little tricks. Let's try to find the best one.

A bath stove, like any other, works in difficult temperature conditions. Downtime in the cold state is replaced by work at high thermal loads on its hot part. Any material, even heat-resistant, has its own coefficient of thermal expansion, which leads to a change in the initial linear dimensions a single element, such as a brick.

The brick heated up, its dimensions increased, the brick cooled down, the dimensions, of course, returned to their original ones. And so dozens, and sometimes hundreds of times. One can imagine the deformation of masonry joints and decorative finishing surfaces. Linear deformations lead to permanent decoupling individual elements in a single furnace system, and in the most unfavorable scenario, to the destruction of the structure as such. Therefore, for long-term operation of the furnace in the bath, it is necessary to adhere to a number of fairly simple rules:

Systematically inspect the stove for its performance and the presence of deformation. The initial signs are manifested in the appearance of the smallest, barely noticeable cracks on the plane. In the future, they grow, connect with each other and form a network, colloquially called a "web". If treatment is not carried out at this stage, then in the future, the area and depth of the crack channels increases, the plaster “cakes” peel off from the masonry surface, and there it is not far from breaking the integrity of the brick bond between them.
Make repairs in a timely manner and with materials designed to withstand significant fluctuations in operating conditions. temperature regime. The sauna stove, in most cases, works at a “torn” pace, that is, it is heated about once a week, unless, of course, the bathhouse is used as a purely commercial facility, in a through schedule.
When carrying out plastering work, it is necessary to strictly observe all technological requirements and practical methods in order to obtain the required result in terms of final quality.

What is plastering

Traditionally, the most affordable and, nevertheless, effective binder material is high-quality ravine clay. Why ravine, but because the mineral of the required quality lies at a certain depth from the day surface. Which, however, absolutely does not prevent the extraction of clay raw materials in quarries and banal pits.

In general, there are a lot of binders for plastering the furnace, in addition to clay, they are: cement, alabaster, commonly known as gypsum, slaked lime. In addition to binders, the solution contains an inert material, in our case, quarry or ravine sand. And his chemical composition may be different, certain sands have feldspar in their raw material basis, others - quartzites.

A word from Experienced! Practice shows that good inert is sand composed of various fractions, or in more professional terms, having a different fineness modulus. Grains of sand that are different in size adhere to each other more qualitatively, creating a denser array. Therefore, it is worth using fractionated or, as it is also called “calibrated” sand, with caution.

In addition to the binder and inert substance, doping substances must also be present in the plaster solution, that is, materials whose addition to its formulation will make it possible to obtain a solution with certain properties. In our case, the key properties are: temperature stability, strength, plasticity, the ability to not lose working qualities for a sufficient amount of time and be ready for use.

The ligature should include: liquid or silicate glass, table salt, asbestos, various kinds of heat-resistant plasticizers, fireclay grains, fiberglass.

Attention! Asbestos is classified by the World Health Organization as a carcinogenic material, so its use should be limited by rationalism and common sense and accompanied by strict compliance with safety standards for handling potentially hazardous substances.

Here are the main formulations of solutions for plastering. For ease of use, we provide this information as a table:

Important! The clay in the above recipe, which is noted in the reference literature as refractory plaster for the oven, should be lean, ordinary. If enriched or otherwise fatty clay is used, the number of parts of sand should be increased to 4. Clay is added to the mixture only in a soaked state, in the state of clay talker, which has matured for at least 4 hours. The fat content of clay and its general quality is determined by means of instrumental control, and at home a simple, but effective way, breakdown "on a stick".

Determining the quality of clay at home

Since ancient times, stove-makers have determined the quality and fat content of clay, in particular, by testing “on a stick”. To do this, a smoothly planed stick is lowered into a ripened clay mash, into modern conditions it can be a clean and preferably not cracked handle from a factory-made shovel. The stick is lowered to the full depth of the container and slowly removed. Good quality clay should cover the stick with an even layer about 1.5 - 2 mm thick. This is the norm.

If the stick is covered in places, grooves and traces of runoff are visible on the surface, then the clay is skinny. This is either “washed out” or used in a ratio of 1 to 2 with sand. If the stick is covered with a thick, uneven layer, with the inclusion of loose lumps, then the fat content of the clay is excessive, and the rate of adding sand to the solution should be increased to 4 parts.

Plaster solutions based on alabaster

Gypsum plaster mortars belong to the class of high-strength, but they have an unpleasant quality in use, their life time is about 6 - 8 minutes. Within 20 minutes, the solution finally and irrevocably seizes.

Here is the recipe:

Attention! For mixing mixtures based on alabaster, you need a clean and cold water. PVA glue is used, in part, as a plasticizer, but in general, as an inhibitor of the reaction, that is, it somewhat slows down the process of setting the gypsum. But it must be remembered that gypsum mixtures are demanding on the speed of work and their full use.

Cement-based plaster mixes

Cement is a good binder, however, classic cement mortars are characterized by low temperature resistance, therefore, heat-resistant plaster for ovens includes several components that increase its characteristics:

The order of mixing such solutions is generally accepted. Dry ingredients are mixed in a separate container, then they are added to an aqueous solution of clay.

Important! The consistency should approach the density of sour cream and ready solution confidently stay on the plane of the trowel. An exception can be considered a solution for the first layer of masonry. It should be somewhat thinner and confidently fill the masonry joints.

The procedure for plastering the oven and basic working techniques

Do-it-yourself plastering of the oven implies a special procedure for carrying out work and the use of a number of technological methods:

The surface must be prepared before application. The preparation of brick surfaces includes the following techniques: masonry joints are evenly deepened to a depth of about 8 mm. Nails with a wide hat and a length of 40 mm are hammered into the seams. A part of the nail stem and a cap should protrude on the surface, with a total length of not more than 10 mm. Nails are hammered in increments of 150 - 170 mm from one another. The masonry surface, for better adhesion of the solution, is wetted with water, or primed with a 20% aqueous solution of PVA glue;
The repair surface is prepared somewhat differently. The surface is tapped with a trowel handle. Exfoliated areas that emit a dull, mumbling sound are removed. The slots are cut to the depth of the intact layer and approximately 2 times the initial width of the slotted channel. The surface is wetted with water or primed;
Plastering is done in stages, in layers. The first or starting layer should have a more liquid consistency of subsequent ones;
For better retention of the plaster layer, especially if its thickness is large, a heat-resistant plaster mesh with a working cell of 10 × 10 mm is used;
The thickness of each layer should not, with rare exceptions, exceed 10 mm;
Each subsequent layer is applied after drying, but not completely drying the previous one;
After the finish layer has dried, the plane is leveled and finished using a standard plaster trowel;
When choosing a plaster mortar, it should be remembered that cement-based mixtures give a dark final color, clay ones retain their natural color in their mass, limestone ones are lighter and alabaster-based mixtures are almost white after drying.

The subsequent design of the plastered surface takes place in the order determined by the project.

Conclusion

Summing up, it should be noted that plastering the oven with your own hands, however, as well as choosing a plaster mix, is not particularly difficult and is performed by one person. The most important condition seems to be a clear choice of a specific recipe using high-quality components and raw materials. When working, the main thing is the strict implementation of the sequence and the clear organization of the work technology. Everything else is not difficult and directly depends on the availability of practical skills and the ability to learn quickly.

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Finishing the bath: choosing the best materials for the steam room, washing and changing rooms

steam room

Many years ago, having just moved to the countryside and built our first bathhouse, we were also very arrogant. And sheathed the steam room with pine boards. Aroma! Beauty! Joy knew no bounds exactly until the moment when red-hot resin drops began to drip on the head, and ugly streaks appeared on the walls.

I had to pull up the theory, and not just be proud of my ability to work with my hands. The head in this case is also not superfluous.

Wall and ceiling materials

It will not be news to anyone that no synthetic materials are strictly used for lining the steam room. Many of them perfectly tolerate heat and moisture, but when heated, they emit harmful substances or become very hot themselves.

But not all natural finishing materials are suitable for this purpose. The most suitable is a tree in the form of a polished edged board, lining, blockhouse or imitation timber. However, there are limitations here too!

Are all rocks able to withstand temperature extremes, resist fungus, and not rot due to constant contact with moist air? Not everyone. And many of those that are capable have certain disadvantages: they are expensive, get very hot, or “cry” with resin.

Brief characteristics of different types of wood, which are most often used for finishing baths and saunas, will help you make your choice:

Linden. It changes very little under the influence of steam and temperature, while maintaining a beautiful creamy shade. Fills the steam room with a gentle pleasant aroma. But it gets very hot, so the lime shelves must be doused with cold water or a sheet should be laid before planting. It is unlikely that it will be possible to insulate the walls with just lime lining without heat-insulating material due to its high thermal conductivity. The cost of 1 sq.m. 600-800 rubles.

Black alder. By operational characteristics ideal material: almost does not change the appearance and properties, on the contrary, the aroma and color of wood become more saturated over time. Besides does not heat up, allowing you not to be afraid of burns. But it does not exude particularly useful phytoncides and costs more than linden - 750-1200 rubles.

Aspen. Finishing inside the bath with aspen is not the best solution in terms of aesthetics, since when exposed to moisture, it turns gray. But in terms of thermal conductivity, it is similar to alder - it does not heat up and can in itself become a good additional heat insulator for walls and ceilings. In addition, it allows you to save money, as it costs 400-500 rubles per sq.m.

Larch. If you need high quality, beautiful and, as they say, for centuries, then larch is an excellent choice. Including the price (up to 1000 rubles per square), when compared with the cost of precious woods with similar properties. She possesses the highest resistance to moisture, which only increases with time. But finishing the steam room in the bath with larch is a difficult task, since this dense wood is difficult to process.

Ash. This wood already belongs to valuable varieties and is worth square meter such lining in the range of 1500-2000 rubles. As for the use of a steam room for finishing, it fits perfectly for this purpose: it has a beautiful texture, does not darken, is not afraid of high humidity and temperature, and besides has healing properties especially useful for people with respiratory diseases.

Oak. Of our local woods, this one is the densest and most beautiful. In all respects, it is suitable for lining a steam room, it looks solid and reliable, but it also costs decently: 2300-2800 rubles. This finish is already considered elite.

Abashi. For those who do not expect big expenses, this and next paragraphs you can skip it, since it will be very expensive to decorate even a small room with African oak abachi. 3000-3300 rubles per sq.m. This exotic wood surpasses all others in terms of resistance to moisture and has an unusual richness. But it is unlikely that all this justifies its price, since it does not bring any benefit to the body and, moreover, it heats up very much.

Canadian cedar. The most expensive material listed, used only in elite baths. Exudes a pleasant aroma and beneficial to health essential oils. Very pretty, easy to work with. Depending on the thickness of the lining, it can cost from 4,000 to 8,000 rubles per square meter.

The variation in prices in these examples is explained not only by the different thicknesses of the planks, but also by their length. Short ones are cheaper. In general, all these are products of grade A or Extra, so you can find cheaper ones.

Now about the very popular and inexpensive, but completely unsuitable for use in hot and humid rooms.

Pine and spruce. The most inexpensive lining costing 200-240 rubles per square meter is made just from these conifers. And it is perfect for wall cladding in the rest room, making furniture for it. The exterior decoration of a pine blockhouse is also quite beautiful and durable, if the walls are built of brick or blocks.
But in the steam room you can’t pine. I have already described the reasons above - this is the “tearfulness” of the tree under the influence of high temperatures. Moreover, due to moisture, it becomes loose. How to apply here protective impregnations If not, then it won't last long.

Birch. It is completely unsuitable for wet rooms - steam rooms and especially a shower room in a bath. It is very afraid of moisture: it quickly loses its appearance, begins to rot and mold. But in dry and well-ventilated rooms, in terms of strength and durability, it will not yield to larch or oak. It can be considered as finishing material for the rest room. Especially if it is spacious and you are looking for something not very expensive. 400-440 rubles per square is quite tolerable.

To be honest, from an aesthetic point of view, it is not so important how you clad the walls and ceiling: very few people just look at expensive wood and understand how much it cost you. Much more important is how to finish the bath. Well-polished, well-fitted boards that are pleasant to touch are half the battle.

Judge for yourself whether the traditional for our region and exotic finishes are very different in business:

If your imagination and patience are enough for decorative trim in the form of backs, headrests and beautiful grilles - even better. All this can just be done from expensive varieties.

All these tricks with wall sheathing are not needed if they are made of thick logs of suitable species. It is enough to caulk the seams well and sand the log house. But finishing a block or brick bath is not only decorating unsightly surfaces, but also the possibility of insulating them and reducing heat loss. But that is another topic.

It is also necessary to think over such an issue as the fire-prevention finish of a bath made of timber or logs.

I will not repeat myself in the following sections about the suitability of a particular type of wood for finishing other premises. Their characteristics speak for themselves, it will not be difficult to make a choice.

Floor

The floor in the steam room should not be slippery and not get very hot. The most inexpensive solution is a cement screed with wooden ladders laid on top. A little more expensive - tiles or porcelain stoneware with the same ladders.

Ladders are lattices made of thick boards or bars that can always be taken out and dried or lifted and washed from all sides. Therefore, there are no special requirements for the type of wood, you can even use pine - on the floor it will not warm up enough to release resin.

Another thing is solid wood flooring. Here you will have to choose rocks that are resistant to moisture - larch, oak, alder.

There is another option - a heat-treated board. It undergoes special treatment with hot (180-200 degrees) steam in the absence of oxygen, while acquiring very high resistance to moisture, strength and dark shade.

The price depends on the type of wood. For example, a square meter of a 40 mm thick pine floorboard will cost about 1,250 rubles, and 2,700 from alder.

washing room

Washing may be different. If water is supplied to the bath from a centralized network or a well with a pump, and there is a water heater, it is enough to install a shower cabin or simply equip a shower corner.

This is impossible without running water, so benches and watering cans are needed. Often there is both, complemented by a large font or even a pool. As well as washing, combined with a steam room.

In each case, the interior decoration of a wooden bath will be different:

For a common room, all those materials that are described in the previous chapter are used. This is a tree that can withstand strong heat, on walls and ceilings and tiled or concrete floors with drains.
In the washroom, separated from the steam room and without a shower, for wall decoration any wood can be used except birch. Including coniferous. Here the temperature is not so high, so the resin is unlikely to flow. But the air will be filled with a pleasant aroma.

Shower room trim wooden bath can also be performed by clapboard, but in this case need good supply and exhaust ventilation so that the boards dry after the end of the procedures. They must be treated with a moisture-repellent agent and periodically updated with a coating.

Much more durable will be facing the walls with tiles or stone at least one and a half meters from the floor. If bearing walls wooden, they are waterproofed, sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall, and tiles are already glued on it.

A very convenient option is a shower room with a door or a curtain. It can be arranged in a dead end or fence off a corner with a partition. And there will be no questions about how to finish the walls in the washing room: with tiles. And the rest of the space, where there will be no heat, no high humidity, whatever.

It’s even easier - to put a ready-made shower stall, and then you don’t have to bother too much with wall cladding, and plastic panels. In this case, finishing materials are selected in the same way as for a bathroom in an apartment.

The ceiling here can be plastered and covered with moisture-resistant paint that is resistant to washing. But with regular use of the bath, you will need to update the coating at least once every two years.

Quite acceptable are such types of finishes as wooden and plastic lining, rack or stretch ceiling. They are not afraid of moisture, spotlights can be built into them, and the space between the ceiling and the cladding can be filled with thermal insulation.

If the bath is wooden, built from an ordinary log or beam, finishing can be started no earlier than a year later. Because it will settle as the tree shrinks, deforming the lining.

If you don’t feel like waiting, you can get confused with a floating frame for drywall and tiles. How to do this correctly is described in the article “Gypsum board lining wooden house". And not lined walls must be treated with antifungal antiseptic impregnation on a natural basis.

locker room

Materials for the design of this room can be very different. But better than wood it's hard to come up with something. However, it can be supplemented with other types of finishes: decorative plaster, artificial stone tiles, various wall tiles, etc.

It all depends on the size and purpose:

If this is a small dressing room in a separate bath, intended only for undressing and dressing, it is better to limit yourself to a moisture-resistant wooden finish. Especially if the bath is heated once a week, and the rest of the time it is not heated.

If this is a spacious recreation room with a heating system from the house, then your desires are not limited by anything. Though wallpaper and painting on the walls - if only you liked it.

Examples for inspiration:

As for how to decorate the bath from the outside, here you can use any facade materials. Most often, a beautiful log house is left without cladding, limited to caulking joints, grinding and processing with decorative and protective agents.

And buildings made of bricks, foam blocks and other building stone are finished in accordance with the house or imitate a log house using a wooden, plastic or metal blockhouse.

Conclusion

Now you know what materials to use so that the interior decoration of a log bath will please you for many years in a row, without requiring repair and alteration. To do this, it is not necessary to use expensive exotic materials that have little health benefit. Our native linden wins a hundred points over the African oak in this respect, and it looks just as good.

If you have something to say or ask on the topic - you are welcome in the comments. Let's discuss.

Plastering a brick oven can significantly ennoble it appearance and increase service life. According to the execution technique, it is not much different from other plastering works, but a number of specific nuances should be taken into account, especially in terms of preparing the mortar. In general, such an event is quite accessible to any person, and can be carried out both using ready-made compositions and by preparing a solution with your own hands.

Problem Features

Why is it recommended to plaster a brick oven? In terms of increasing the reliability of the entire structure, it should be noted that the plastered brick is protected from direct exposure to aggressive bathing factors (temperature changes, moisture, steam). The brickwork itself increases the strength and tightness of the seams. The bonding material is less prone to cracking. 2 important reason - to improve the appearance. The stove after plastering has a flat surface of the walls, which makes it neat and makes it possible to create a certain interior.

Plaster brick oven has its own specific features. First of all, this is related to high temperature on the walls during its operation. The plastered layer must withstand the following influences: prolonged heating and open flame, temperature fluctuations, mechanical influences, smoke and steam, oil splashes during cooking. In the process of heating the oven, the brickwork tends to expand significantly, and therefore the plaster mortar for ovens must have increased elasticity to withstand such loads without cracking.

One of the functions of the stove is to heat the room. This condition dictates one more requirement for oven plaster - good thermal conductivity. If additional significant energy is required to heat this layer, then the efficiency of the entire structure will decrease significantly. In addition, when heated, the material used for plastering should not emit substances harmful to the human body.

The choice of plaster composition

The question of how to plaster brick oven walls is the most important when planning such an event. It should be said right away that the usual cement-sand mortar used when plastering the walls of a building is not suitable for furnaces. It will just crack in a very short time. For plaster, you can use a ready-made mixture designed specifically for this purpose, or cook it yourself, but according to a special recipe.

To resolve the issue of how to plaster, simple 2-3-component mixtures and complex compositions with the addition of various ingredients (fiberglass, asbestos, salts, plasticizers, etc.) can be used. The composition of the solution also depends on the type of brick used for the construction of furnaces (chamotte, red brick, silicate varieties, etc.). Certain components added to the plaster increase its adhesion to the material.

If a decision is made to use ready-made materials, then you need to purchase a stove or fireplace plaster mix. All the necessary ingredients have already been introduced into it, and preparation for application consists in diluting with water in the proportion indicated in the instructions. When using them, one nuance should be taken into account: their long-term storage is undesirable, because atmospheric moisture can lead to premature hardening of the mixture in the form of poorly soluble lumps.

Most often homemade solutions for plastering ovens, the following types are prepared:

clay;
lime-clay;
lime-sand-clay,
lime-gypsum;
cement-sand-clay.

The practice of furnace construction shows that it is these compositions that are least susceptible to cracking when heated. Other additives are added to improve the properties.

When preparing the solution, it is important to choose the right proportions of the ingredients. Precisely selected composition allows you to easily and evenly apply a thin layer on the furnace wall. In particular, a certain consistency of the composition is used as a grout. The viscosity of the solution is regulated by the proportions of water, plasticity largely depends on the amount of sand, and the more it is, the less the elasticity of the mass.

Recipe selection

The specific formulation of the plaster mortar depends on a number of these factors, and most often on the preferences of the contractor himself, who determines the desired consistency by touch. We can distinguish such standard mixtures (they are often used in the factory version):

Clay-sand mortar: clay (1 part) and sand (2 parts) with the addition of asbestos fiber (0.1 parts).
Lime-clay composition: clay, lime and sand in a ratio of 1:1:2 with the introduction of asbestos (0.1 part).
Lime-gypsum mixture: lime, gypsum and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1 with asbestos (0.2 parts).
Cement-clay mortar: cement and clay (1 part each), sand (2 parts), asbestos fiber (0.1 parts).

In such solutions, clay provides the plasticity of the composition, and asbestos is responsible for the increased heat resistance. It should be noted that the fat content of clay is considered an important parameter; with its high rate, the sand content can be increased. In particular, when preparing a clay-sand mixture, 3-4 parts of sand can be added to 1 part of high-fat clay. If you wish to increase the strength characteristics of plaster for ovens, you can add salt at the rate of 20 g per 1 liter of solution.

The sequence of preparation of the plaster solution, in principle, is standard. First, the dry ingredients are mixed, which are preliminarily sifted through a sieve to remove impurities and lumps. Clay or lime is separately mixed with water until a homogeneous milk is obtained. The dry mixture is gradually introduced into the solution with thorough mixing. The result should be a creamy texture. Use the prepared solution as soon as possible. This condition is especially true for a mixture based on gypsum, which can thicken in 7-8 minutes, and after 30-40 minutes it becomes unusable.

Since ancient times, it was customary to plaster the stove with clay mixed with sand, straw, sawdust and the addition of salt. Such a mixture effectively coped with the task and provided the necessary elasticity when heated.

Required tool

When carrying out work on plastering the furnace on your own, you should prepare in advance the appropriate tool and containers for the solution:

trowel or plaster spatula;
falcon;
grater and trowel;
rule;
metal brush;
brush or brush for wetting the surface;
construction mixer;
corner rail.

When preparing the solution, you will need a shovel, scoop, measuring container, sieve, scales, a container for mixing ingredients. It is better to control the leveling of the surface with a building level. For removing old plaster A chisel and hammer may come in handy. A vacuum cleaner will help get rid of dust.

Process features

How to plaster a brick oven? The whole process can be divided into 3 stages: preparing the surface of the furnace walls, preparing the mortar and directly plastering. First of all, work should be carried out long before the active operation of the furnace, i.e. in summer. If you plan to plaster a recently made, new brick oven, then you must wait a certain time until the masonry mortar has completely dried.

The preparatory activities are as follows:

complete removal of the old plaster and mechanical cleaning of the surface using a metal brush;
removal of dust and dirt;
processing the wall surface with sandpaper;
deepening the seams between the bricks for the plaster to flow into them;
final removal of dust using a vacuum cleaner, it is not recommended to use a wet cloth, because dirt with water can seep into the material.

The next step is the preparation of the solution, since it must be mixed immediately before application. To prepare the plaster mass, a container of the required volume is used, and mixing itself is best done using a construction mixer.

How to plaster an oven? Usually the following order of work is maintained:

A reinforcing layer is laid on the surface of the furnace walls. Since ancient times, burlap has been used for this purpose, but nowadays metal or fiberglass mesh is preferred. As a rule, a mesh with a cell size of up to 1x1 cm is used. When using burlap, fastening is done using clay, and the metal mesh is fixed with a wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm. The reinforcing layer should cover the entire furnace area.
Application of 1 layer with a thinner solution The thickness of the layer is about 5 mm.
Application of 2 layers of a solution with the consistency of thick sour cream. Its thickness is 10-15 mm. Plastering is best to start from the top.
Grouting and leveling plaster. This operation is carried out in a circular motion with a cloth coated with a liquid solution.
Particular attention should be paid to the formation of corners. To design a perfectly even edge, it is recommended to use a wooden lath.
If, after complete drying of the plaster, cracks form, then repeated grouting is carried out using a wet cloth.
The plastered stove can be whitewashed or any other heat-resistant, decorative coating can be applied.

A separate stage is the plastering of the chimney. Here it is especially important to take into account the high degree of heating, while the plaster must, on the contrary, have certain thermal insulation properties. Even higher demands are placed on the plastering of the outlet pipe on the roof. On this element, the material is exposed to all external factors including moisture and Sun rays, as well as the impact of fuel combustion products (smoke). Brickwork in such conditions must be reliably protected from these influences.

Plastering a brick oven will help increase its durability and give an attractive appearance. The process itself differs little from any other plastering work, but the composition for the furnace has its own specifics. Under these conditions, conventional cement-sand mortar should not be used. The choice of the plaster mixture formulation is carried out taking into account the special requirements in terms of long-term heat resistance.

How and how to plaster a brick oven

Plastering a brick oven can significantly improve its appearance and increase its service life. According to the execution technique, it is not much different from other plastering works, but a number of specific nuances should be taken into account, especially in terms of preparing the mortar.

How to plaster a brick oven

Furnaces and heating based on the energy they release are quite common these days. These can be ultra-modern structures made of bricks with the latest chimneys, and old stoves in summer cottages and village houses. Like everything in this world, after operation, they need repair, which consists in eliminating cracks, smoothing out irregularities, and giving a neat appearance. Best Option stucco will solve all problems.

However, this process requires skills, knowledge of certain technologies and choice the right material who need to plaster the surface of the furnace. During the firebox, it heats up quite a lot, therefore it assumes a heat-resistant coating that will last for a long time without cracking, chipping and other deformations.

How to make mortar for plastering the oven

You need to figure out exactly what needs to be done. Ordinary cement mortar or gypsum putty, which is used to process brick or plasterboard walls and ceilings in rooms, is absolutely unsuitable for such work.

Long years of use furnace heating, helped create the most correct composition mixture used to plaster heated surfaces.

The composition in them is almost the same, however, different proportions. Combine sand and clay in the same amount and add a little asbestos to the mixture (about 5% of the total amount of plaster material). Such a composition is very affordable and budgetary, but the lack of a fixer makes it short-lived. After several months of use, the oven may become covered with a scattering of small cracks.

Sand, clay, and lime. Sand needs two parts, and the remaining components one by one. Exactly slaked lime adds the necessary strength to the mixture and prevents it from collapsing for quite a long time.

Also very popular is a solution mixed on the basis of cement (2 parts), but also with the addition of sand, clay (one part each, respectively) and asbestos (as in the first version, about 5%). It is the presence of cement that makes the surface durable, it fits perfectly on the brick surface and avoids frequent repairs.

The most expensive, but at the same time durable, will be the composition, which in equal parts includes sand, clay, slaked lime and a little fiberglass. It will connect the particles of bulk materials together, will not allow them to crumble and delaminate in the finished plaster.

In addition, ready-made mixtures are sold in hardware stores for plastering brickwork that is susceptible to elevated temperatures. Often, it includes all the same components as in a do-it-yourself one, but the proportions are already selected there. All you need to do is just add water to it. It is worth noting that some mixtures intended for work with furnaces harden over time. You should not take them for granted. The hardened substance is very difficult to break even into separate small pieces, and it is even more difficult to soak.

Tool you need for the job

In order to plaster the oven, in addition to mortar, some Building tools, the use of which will greatly facilitate and speed up the process:

plaster spatula or trowel;
falcon (this device is used as a kind of reservoir for the solution, has sides, allows you not to lean each time to the main container);
grater and trowel, differing in size, and have a little different functions- fresh plaster is leveled with a trowel, they take away corners, smooth out bumps and influxes, give the surface a neat appearance. The grater is smaller, it is intended for finishing work;
a metal brush, required for preparatory work;
the rule is that with its help they level the solution and check how evenly it is applied, control the level. The rule may be an ordinary wooden lath or an improved tool made of light metal with a beveled side;
a wide brush, which is convenient to wet the surface of the oven, for better adhesion.

Work technology

Before plastering the stove, you need to prepare it in advance. For this, the remains old finish all impurities are removed. With the help of special tools, notches are made (bouchard, trojans, gears).

Such a measure will prevent the peeling of large fragments of plaster later.

Also, for this purpose, you can use burlap or a fine metal mesh. You can fix them on the wall of the oven, you can use any accessible way, later, when the time comes to plaster, all the flaws will be eliminated, the main thing is to achieve good adhesion. However, when using burlap, you should not heat the stove too much, so as not to provoke the smoldering of the layer. Also, when fixing it, you need to try to smooth it as high as possible, removing all air bubbles.

Apply the solution according to its plasticity. If it is thick enough, it is thrown into the right place with a plaster spatula. With a more liquid consistency, a falcon is used. You need to draw a small amount of the solution into it, and pressing it tightly against the wall, turning it over with its back side, spread it on the stove. An important nuance, at the same time, is the observance of the same pressure force so that the plaster has the same thickness.

The applied solution must be leveled with a rule or a small one. In the second option, you must initially set the beacons, which will serve as a guide.

Experienced stove-makers are advised not to apply one thick layer of mortar, but to do the work in several passes. So, the surface of the furnace will be as reliable as possible for a long time. In order for the plaster to dry faster, it can be dried with special appliances, turbines, or even a household heater. You can apply the next layer no earlier than after three to four hours. It is not recommended to use a new solution or change its composition. If the consistency and composition differ, this will lead to different fat content and structure of the mixture, which subsequently manifests itself as stratification.

When the plaster dries, it must be rubbed, smoothing out the roughness and irregularities. It's done grater, first in a circular motion (counterclockwise). The movement of the tool must be continuous. When a bump appears on the way, it should be pressed a little harder to smooth it out. The recesses are filled during the grouting process. In order to avoid concentrated circles and traces of monotonous movements on the stove, the plaster should also be wiped off.

Possible Problems and How to Fix Them

If the work is not carried out correctly, defects and flaws appear that are noticeable even to the naked eye. To avoid them, you should figure out what types of flaws are.

If unslaked lime was used for the solution, it reacts with other components during the mixing process. This leads to the formation of bubbles with the thinnest surface on the surface of the plaster. After drying, they burst, it is only necessary to touch them slightly, and a speck remains on the wall. If such a problem nevertheless occurred, such a place must be covered with a thin layer of the solution, and then wiped again.

When the surface of the kiln has not been pre-moistened, delamination of the plaster occurs. The same thing happens if the previous layer is dried out, this will not allow the solution to adhere to each other with high quality.

It often happens that a newly plastered brick oven is all covered with cracks. This misunderstanding occurs for a number of reasons:

insufficiently mixed solution, with a high content of oily clay;
applying the solution to the dry layer;
applying a very thick layer of plaster;
fast drying solution.

Plastering a brick oven: how and with what to plaster a brick oven

After operation, the furnace needs to be repaired, which consists in eliminating cracks, smoothing out irregularities, and giving a neat appearance.

Step-by-step instructions for high-quality plastering of a brick oven with a photo

Many owners of private houses increasingly prefer such types of heating as gas or steam, and if central heating is available in the village, it is easier for some to connect to the heating network. However, in many houses, the stove heating method is preserved - both as the main source of heat and as an auxiliary one. Often the choice in favor of a conventional stove is associated with economic considerations - the best brick stove will cost less than laying a distribution pipeline for connecting to central heating.

The furnace is a fairly voluminous structure; it is almost impossible to make it invisible. Most often, red brick is used for masonry, which does not always look harmonious in the room. Therefore, the owners make efforts to ensure that the stove fits into the interior and looks neat. Often the furnace is finished with plaster.

However, many are faced with such a problem - after a few years, the plaster from the brick oven begins to crumble. In fact, this can be avoided, the main thing is to do the plastering work correctly.

Preparing a room for plastering a brick oven

In fact, even a home master who does not have experience in similar work can qualitatively plaster a brick oven. It is important to carefully consider the process and use quality materials, then the oven will retain its presentable appearance for a long time.

Before plastering the oven, you need to prepare the room. To do this, you need to make room for work - all unnecessary items from the room must be taken out. Furniture should also be removed from the room if possible. If this does not work out, then you need to cover it with a dense cloth. To protect against debris, dust and damage, windows, walls and floors - these surfaces should be covered with polyethylene.

About materials and tools

Learn how to plaster a brick stove and prepare everything necessary tools and materials need in advance. You will need a set of tools, including:

trowel or trowel;
grater;
hammer;
chisel or spatula;
wire cutters and pliers (they can be replaced with pliers);
sprayer - it is needed to wet the surface with water (if it is not there, a paint brush will do);
scissors for metal and scissors for fabric;
coarse sieve - for sifting sand and / or clay;
container for solution and separate for water;
scoop for plaster mixture (or its components);
broom or vacuum cleaner.

The list of materials for plastering the oven includes the actual mortar for plastering the oven, a reinforcing mesh with 10 x 10 mm cells (burlap can be dispensed with), lime (or water-based paint), and cement mortar (it will be needed to fix the wire - including case when it comes to old stove).

Surface preparation

Before starting plastering work, it is imperative to prepare the surface of the furnace. In this case, it will be easier to apply the mortar, and the finish will look better and last longer.

If we are talking about an old furnace, then you will need to prepare the surface according to the following scheme:

Cleaning the surface of the furnace from old plaster. This can be done with a spatula or chisel.
The surface is rubbed with sandpaper - this will help eliminate minor irregularities.
Vacuum cleaner or dry rags to remove the resulting debris and dust.

In the case when you need to plaster a freshly laid stove, such work should begin about a month after the completion of the brickwork. This period is sufficient for the mortar used for masonry to dry out, harden and gain strength. Before you start work, you need to clear the seams between the bricks that make up the oven to a depth of about 0.5 cm - this will help the plaster mortar lie better on the masonry.

Plaster solutions

Today it is possible to choose between buying a ready-made dry mix for plastering the oven or preparing the solution yourself according to proven "folk" recipes. For achievement quality result it is required to carefully observe the ratio of dry components and water, which must be either tap or technical (neither lake nor river can be taken for a solution).

Depending on the purpose of the room and its humidity, the mode of its use, the planned method of exterior decoration, as well as the climate in the region, the owner must decide how to plaster his stove.

How to prepare the "correct" solution? Classic recipe includes clay and sand. If you plan to paint the oven in White color, then lime can be added - it must be slaked. To increase the strength of the solution, you can add crushed asbestos or fiberglass.

The composition of the oven plaster mortar may vary. The table shows the main popular options:

To determine the correct ratio, you need to prepare a portion of the sample solution and apply it to the surface - a small area. If the mortar dries, the plastered area is covered with cracks, then there is not enough sand and more needs to be added. If the solution crumbled, this indicates that there is not enough clay in its composition.

Solution preparation rules

In order to achieve good results, close attention must be paid to the process of preparing the solution. In this case, it is required to observe a number of simple rules not only at the time of mixing the plaster mixture, but also in the preparation of the components.

clear of debris;
place to soak in water for several days;
filter the resulting slurry through a coarse sieve.

Lime (work on the preparation of this material is carried out only on the street):

pour pieces of lime into a bucket (it should only be metal) - no more than half the volume of the bucket;
pour water (no more than 0.6 bucket volume);
let the solution cool for a day;
drain the solution;
pass the lime slurry through a coarse sieve.

Sand also needs to be screened, asbestos or fiberglass - carefully crushed.

To prepare a high quality solution, you need to reproduce the following sequence of actions:

Sifted sand is mixed with prepared clay.
The remaining components of the solution are added (for example, fiberglass).
The solution is thoroughly mixed. This can be done with a drill, a construction mixer, or a hammer drill with a special nozzle.

A quality solution should not contain solid particles or lumps, it looks homogeneous and plastic.

There are a number of nuances associated with the terms of storage and use, depending on which solution it was decided to use:

If gypsum was used as the basis, such a solution hardens very quickly. You need to prepare it in small portions, which should immediately be applied to the oven;

The prepared mortar with a cement base must be used within an hour after it has been diluted with water;

A clay-based mixture can be prepared in advance. It can be stored for a long time provided that the container is airtight.

Step-by-step instructions for plastering the oven

After everything is prepared necessary materials and a set of tools, you can begin the process of plastering the oven with your own hands. Plastering a brick oven can be done according to a simple scheme, consisting of five main steps:

Sackcloth. The material must be cut and soaked in a solution of liquid clay. After that, it must be distributed over the oven: the laying process is carried out in the direction from top to bottom, the overlap should be about 50 mm. If such material is used for reinforcement, the furnace must be protected from overheating during operation;

Plastering. The solution is applied from top to bottom, each layer must be even - its thickness should not be more than 5 mm. After the solution has set, it should be rubbed, performing circular movements with a grater. If the plaster has hardened too much, it can be moistened with water. Some home craftsmen recommend that after applying the plaster solution, smooth it with a rag (it must first be moistened in the same solution).

After finishing applying the plaster, it must be allowed to dry. If cracks appear, they can be expanded with a regular knife, then soaked with water and covered with a mortar (if a clay-based mortar was used, plaster residues can be used for this purpose, which can be stored in an airtight container).

Exterior finishing works

In order for the stove to look good indoors, additional finishing can be done after plastering is completed:

painting with water-based paint;
whitewashing with chalk;
coating with lime milk (you need to add a little salt to it, at the rate of 0.1 kg per 100 liters of solution);
decorative plaster for ovens (a wide range of compositions can be found in hardware stores).

Brick oven plaster - step by step instructions

High-quality plastering of a brick oven can be done even by a home master who does not have experience in similar work. It is important to pay close attention to the process.

How to plaster the oven so that it does not crack

How to plaster the oven so that it does not crack during everyday use? This question arises for those homeowners who have just acquired this heating device, and in those cases when it is time to repair a stove that has been built for a long time.

How to plaster the oven so that it does not crack

It should be noted that cracking most often occurs when violations are made in the technology of the plastering process or in the preparation of the surface for applying the finish, and also due to improper preparation of the solution.

For plastering the brick walls of the furnace, traditional sand-clay mortars and professionally prepared plaster mixtures are used, which can be bought today at any hardware or specialized store.

Ready-made plaster mixture for ovens

But whatever type of plaster is chosen, it must meet certain requirements, such as heat resistance, high adhesion and an adequate response to the expansion of the wall material when heated.

Why plaster the oven at all?

In what cases and why are ovens plastered? The answer to this question is no less important than the first one, because, having learned it, you can understand whether it is worth carrying out this process at all, or you can leave the stove unfinished, or decorate its walls with ceramic or fireclay tiles.

Plastered and whitewashed Russian stove

The reasons that require finishing the walls with plaster include:

If the stove is old and had already been plastered before, but for some reason the finish cracked and began to fall off, and sloppy masonry was found under it.
If the stove is old and there is a risk of cracking the masonry mortar in the joints and penetration carbon monoxide into the room.
If there is a need to transform this structure, give it neatness and aesthetics, for example, when updating the entire interior and changing the style of its design.
Over time, various insects can settle in the seams between rows of bricks, especially in cases where the laying was carried out on natural materials. Timely processing and plastering will help prevent their occurrence.
If the stove has just been erected, but the masonry is done carelessly, without jointing, and the structure does not look aesthetically pleasing, it is plaster that will help correct this situation.

The advantage of plaster over other finishing materials:

It should be noted that plastering the oven is the most affordable and in a simple way clean up oven surfaces.
By choosing plaster for wall decoration, you can save a lot, since the price of ceramic tiles or stove tiles is several orders of magnitude higher than that of a plaster mixture.
Plastering can be applied to any of existing species furnaces, both for the restoration of the old furnace, and for the decoration of the newly built one.
The plaster increases the thickness of the wall, which increases the heat capacity of the building and leads to fuel savings, since the furnace cools down longer.
Plaster increases the level of fire safety and reduces the possibility of carbon monoxide penetration into the room.
The plastered surface can be covered with water-based paint, whitewash or decorative plasters.

Tools to get the job done

The quality of plaster application and its ideal distribution on the surface of the furnace walls directly affects the adhesion of materials and the longevity of operation. In order for the plastering process to be easy and bring the expected result, it is necessary to carry it out with high-quality tools, which include:

Plastering tools

Spatulas - from medium to take the solution from the tank, to wide, used to apply it to the wall.
A plastering hammer used for hammering plaster nails.
Trowel (trowel) for applying and distributing the mortar on the oven walls.
Cam hammer used to work with a chisel, trojan and gear.
Scissors for cutting fiberglass mesh. If the walls are covered with a chain-link mesh, then metal scissors will also be required.
Grater and half grater. These tools are used to level and smooth plastered surfaces.
The trowel is used to bring the surface to perfect smoothness.
Chisel. With this tool, notches are made on the surface of the furnace walls for better adhesion of materials.
brushes different sizes for applying soil compositions, and when using some techniques, both the plaster itself and to give it a textured surface, if it is provided.
Brush with metal bristles - for cleaning surfaces and joints, when removing old plaster.
Building level to check the verticality and horizontal planes.
A plumb line is used to control the evenness of walls and applied plaster.
The rule helps to align the plaster applied to the walls with the beacons installed on them.

Types of plaster solutions

As you know, the oven is subjected to constant temperature changes, so the plaster layer must be resistant to this phenomenon. When composing a solution on your own and choosing the proportions of materials, you must take this into account.

The most important point is the composition of the plaster mortar

Plaster mixtures are simple and complex:

Simple are called compositions consisting of two ingredients - clay and sand.
Complex solutions are those that have more than two components in their composition.

Some of the materials before making the mixture must be prepared by cleaning them from various impurities:

Sand should be sifted through a fine sieve.
Clay is also rubbed through a fine metal mesh, turning it into powder and freeing it from plant roots and small stones.

Clay for the preparation of the plaster mix is chosen to be quite oily, since this quality will directly affect the adhesion of the plaster and the wall. In the event that excessive fat content of clay is noticeable, a little more sand can be added to the solution.

Clay before kneading the solution is soaked, mixing with water. Further, it is left for several hours. If during this time it has absorbed all the water, then more liquids are added, and so on until the water covers the clay from above by 100 ÷ 150 mm. After that, the mixture is mixed - it should have the consistency of thick sour cream and have good plasticity.

Asbestos, which is added to the solution, plays the role of a reinforcing component. Instead of asbestos, hemp, finely chopped straw or crushed glass fiber (microfiber) can be used.

It should be noted that for plaster compositions it is better to choose natural, environmentally friendly materials that, when heated, will not emit harmful fumes that are unsafe for the health of residents of the house.

Some masters add salt to the solution and this is explained by the fact that it makes the solution stronger. However, this is not quite true. Salt does not strengthen the clay, but increases its hygroscopicity, which makes it more ductile, preventing it from drying out, so the plaster will crack less. In addition, various insects do not start up in salt plaster, which is also very important for a private house.

The table below shows several formulations of plaster mortars for ovens.

Separately, it must be said about such material as gypsum, which is one of the components of some plaster solutions. For example, in mix #4, it is used instead of cement as a binder. Gypsum hardens very quickly, its setting occurs almost immediately after application to the wall, and after 10 ÷ 15 minutes the plaster layer with its use will already harden.

This construction material often used together with lime, as it gives the solution strength and promotes rapid drying. But, choosing a solution with the addition of gypsum, you need to take into account its properties and prepare small portions of the mixture, otherwise it will harden and be unsuitable for work. It will definitely not be possible to extend its “life” even for a short time by diluting it with water.

We plaster the oven with our own hands

Preparatory work

Plastering will not turn out to be of high quality if the surface of the furnace walls is not well prepared for the application of the finishing material. Therefore, the first step is to preparatory work that will create good conditions for plaster adhesion.

If an old stove or fireplace is to be put in order, then its surface must be freed from the plaster on it, knocking it down manually with a chisel and a hammer. After the walls are freed from the old layer, they are well cleaned of dust - this process is carried out with an iron and ordinary brush.
The fresh masonry of the furnace must also be cleaned, as the remains of the masonry material may linger on the bricks, which will reduce adhesion, which will lead to the plaster lagging behind the wall.
Next, there is a deepening of the seams, and this is carried out both for the new stove and for the restored one. Dry mortar from the joints is selected by 5 ÷ 10 mm. Then the seams are well cleaned of dust.
After cleaning, the walls are well primed, and it is necessary to cover deep seams with a primer with a thin brush.

Applying a primer to the oven walls

Sometimes it is necessary to apply several layers of plaster - such a need arises if the furnace walls are very uneven. This method of plastering requires additional strengthening of the surface with a metal or fiberglass mesh with cells of 15 ÷ 20 mm. Reinforcement will fix the plaster well on the walls, making it less vulnerable to temperature changes. In addition, a thicker layer will increase the heat capacity of the furnace. Metal grid fastened to the surface with nails with wide caps, which are driven into the seams between the bricks.

Reinforcing mesh on the surface of the furnace

The fiberglass mesh is embedded in the mixture applied to the wall, or the solution is applied to the mesh from above, leveling it. Fiberglass is mainly used if the surface is fairly even.

Use of fiberglass mesh

To maintain or restore the evenness of the corners of the furnace, steel or perforated aluminum corners are mounted on the adhesive mass.

Metal profiles will help to precisely bring out the corners

In order to achieve evenness of the wall with large differences, beacons from metal profiles fixed on the surface gypsum mixture, which dries quickly, which practically does not slow down the work. If time suffers, then the beacons can also be set on a clay solution. But such a method is possible if the mesh is close to the wall.

If necessary, a sufficiently thick layer of plaster is installed guide-beacons

The walls of the furnace can be leveled to perfect smoothness for whitewashing or painting, or you can leave the surface even, but rough, to cover it with decorative embossed plaster. It should be noted that under the masonry ceramic tiles or decorative plaster, it is recommended to apply a not too thick preparatory finishing layer.

There are various ready-made formulations or additives that help mimic a natural stone different breeds. The surface of the furnace in this case, with the correct preparation of the solution, will be impossible to distinguish from natural material.

Preparing the plaster mixture

The solution, composed in the correct proportion and well mixed, is one of the factors on which the quality plastering of the furnace depends. To mix the mixture, you will need a drill and a mixer nozzle.

Mixing the solution with a mixing attachment

Before starting cooking, you need to consider some points:

Soaked clay, if it is used in a solution, should swell for at least two to three days. If, after standing this time, it continues to absorb water, then it is not ready for kneading and should be added to it with more water and left to swell for a while.
The sand added to the solution must not only be sifted, but also dried - this will help in maintaining the correct proportions when composing the mixture.
Lime will be a good plasticizer for the solution - its viscosity will make the mixture more adhesive. In addition, it will help the solution to set quickly enough, which will shorten the period of work. In principle, a small amount of it is recommended to be added to mixtures consisting of any ingredients.
The most suitable of the brands of cement is M400. It begins to harden in 17 ÷ 20 minutes after kneading, seizes in 3.5 ÷ 4 hours, and its final solidification and strength development occurs after two to three days.

In construction stores, you can look for high-quality clay and ready-made mixtures.

If you purchase a ready-made dry mix, then it is not difficult to prepare it:

In a clean container right size water is poured.
Then powder is poured into the container, the proportions of which in relation to water are indicated on the package.
With a mixer, the solution is kneaded until a homogeneous mass is formed without lumps and dry inclusions.
The solution is kept for 7 ÷ 10 minutes, then mixed again, and after that it is ready for use.

If for plastering the solution will be prepared independently, using traditional materials, then the process is carried out as follows:

The required amount of clay mass is laid out in the container. Dry sand, slaked lime and cement are added to it in accordance with the indicated proportions.
The mixture is also stirred with a mixer until smooth. If necessary, a small amount of water is added to the solution during the mixing process.

This solution is applied immediately, as cement with lime sets quickly enough.

Plastering process

As mentioned above, the plastering process can take place different ways, some of which will be discussed below.

First way

This method is used if there are large distortions on the surface, and it requires cardinal alignment by applying a layer with a thickness of 50 to 80 mm.

In this variant, leveling beacons are fixed first. They are set according to the building level, achieving perfect evenness.

After that, the oven is heated to a warm state.
Further, the entire surface of the furnace is wetted with water using a wide brush or roller. Water will nail dust particles and dry mortar into the joints.
After that, the walls are primed. The primer coat must dry, creating a layer that will promote adhesion of the surface and applied materials.

A sketch of the solution, or "spray"

Further, by "spraying" (sketching), the first plaster layer is applied, which should not be thicker than 4 ÷ 5 mm. The solution for this layer should have the consistency of medium liquid sour cream. The mixture is applied with accentuated movements, since the mortar must fall into the seams between the masonry rows. After completing the outline, the mortar is allowed to dry well.
After it dries, the next layer is applied, which should protrude above the installed beacons by 8 ÷ 10 mm. The solution is applied from the bottom of the wall, approximately 400 ÷ 500 mm, and immediately leveled by the rule that is led along the lighthouses. Next, the mortar is poured onto the next area and leveled again, and so on, until the entire surface is covered with a leveling plaster layer.

Alignment of plaster on lighthouses

While the mixture is still wet, the grout is gently passed over it, grinding the surface.

The stove-makers have one secret that contributes to the uniform drying of the plaster layer, which reduces the risk of cracks on its surface. The entire oven, after applying a solution to it and grinding, is covered with a damp burlap. If it dries quickly, it is moistened one more ÷ two times.

When the surface dries, the matting is removed, and if cracks are found, they are immediately overwritten and smoothed with a rubber-surfaced trowel.

The third layer - “covering”, is smoothing, so the solution for it is made quite liquid and applied with a thickness of only 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. This layer is applied if the surface of the furnace will be covered with paint or whitewash.
Difficulty always arises when deriving corners, even if they are reinforced with metal corners. The easiest way to apply mortar evenly and level them well is to use an angled spatula.

The work will be simplified if an angled spatula is at hand.

Some masters use pinning to draw a corner wooden lath on one side of it, and after the applied solution has dried, the rail is transferred to the other side of the corner, and the mixture is applied to the one where the guide was installed earlier.

It is recommended to round the very edge of the corner, which can be achieved using an angled spatula. This must be done, first of all, for the safety of small children living in the house. Also, the rounded corner is less prone to chipping, for example, during the period of repair and movement of furniture.

Second way

When using this method of bringing the furnace in order, a metal chain-link mesh is used, which reinforces the surface of the furnace and sets the thickness of the plaster coating.

Plastering with chain-link mesh

With a metal mesh and level the surface, moving it away from the wall in the right places at a distance of up to 25 mm. For rigidity, a wire is placed under it, which can be hooked onto the mesh itself or metal slats.

In this method, the plaster mixture is also applied in several layers until the mesh is completely covered under it.

Finishing with the use of such reinforcement is more durable and securely fixed to the surface.

The first layer is also applied using the "spray" method - the solution must pass through the mesh and be well fixed on the wall. Spray on the entire surface, the walls are left to dry. After they dry, the grid will become motionless, and it will be easy to apply the next, already leveling layers of the solution on it.
After leveling and drying of the upper, last layer, the resulting cracks are smeared and overwritten.
The next step is the installation of a decorative coating.

Third way

The third method of plastering is used if the walls of the furnace are fairly even, and they only need to be “refreshed” a little.

Plastering with a thin layer

The solution for this method is applied in one or two layers with a thickness of not more than 2 ÷ 3 mm.

The wall is also prepared and primed.
Then, if necessary, thin metal rails-guides are fixed on it, which will help you navigate in the thickness of the layer. Reiki may not be used if the surface is flat and not needed.
With this method of finishing, it is best to use a solution with the addition of fireclay clay and crushed asbestos, which will play the role of a reinforcing component.
The mixture is applied, starting from the bottom of the oven, with a wide spatula, and immediately leveled with a rule over metal slats. If beacons are not used, then the solution is smoothed, focusing only on the evenness of the surface.
The corners are removed in this case also with the help of an angled spatula.
When the walls of the furnace are completely covered with mortar, they are carefully, without pressure, leveled cleanly with grout.

It is good to lay ceramic or fireclay tiles on such a finish, as well as apply decorative embossed plaster.

Furnace decoration

Decorative finishing of the furnace can be made for every taste. If the plaster turned out to be even, then the oven can be covered with whitewash - this method can be called traditional, since it has been used for a long time. The whitewash was often painted with water-based paints, which gave the room an originality and emphasized national traditions. Most often, ornaments were chosen that are characteristic of the area where the building is located.

A plastered stove can be decorated with simple ornaments or decorative tiles.

Today, with the advent of new technologies and materials, the oven is often decorated with plasters that can create patterns on the surface that imitate one of the types of stone or a homogeneous relief structure.

There are other elements of three-dimensional drawings - in this case, everything will depend on the imagination of the master. To create them, improvised items are often used, for example, plastic wrap, brush, brush, dish cleaning net and other materials or accessories.

Various techniques for embossing plaster

If there is a predisposition to creativity, you can create relief compositions from decorative plaster that protrude beyond the walls of the furnace even by 7 ÷ 10 mm, and then cover them with coloring compositions. The application of paints takes place on wet decorative plaster - then they are well absorbed into its surface and become more durable. After the entire surface has dried, painting can be done one more time.

Often the entire oven is lined with heat-resistant ceramic tiles.

In addition to decorative plaster, the stove is often decorated with terracotta or ceramic tiles. The availability of corner trim elements for sale greatly simplifies its installation and makes it possible to make corners and all surfaces neat and aesthetic. The tile is mounted on a special cement-based adhesive, which has the ability to withstand the effects of temperature extremes.

What should be considered when starting plastering and finishing?

When carrying out plastering of the furnace, you need to take into account some points that may affect the quality of the work performed.

It is impossible to apply plaster on a newly erected furnace structure. A "fresh" stove should not only be well dried, but also go through the stages of shrinkage. To do this, it is operated for two to three months, and only after this period, you can start finishing work.

Only water-based paints can be used to paint the plastered surface. Other coloring compositions containing drying oil or organic solvents will emit harmful substances and unpleasant odors into the living quarters when the furnace is fired.

For all plastering and decorative design oven it is recommended to use materials on a natural basis, without any synthetic additives that are unfavorable to human health.

It should be noted that all the methods discussed in the article are not as easy to perform as it seems at first glance. Therefore, with a complete lack of experience in this work, you should not take risks and translate enough, sometimes expensive materials. It is better to entrust these responsible events to real professionals, firsthand. knowing the secrets masonry and subsequent finishing of the furnace.

How to plaster the oven so that it does not crack - the nuances of technology

How to plaster the oven so that it does not crack and does not lose its attractive appearance during use? There are several methods for applying plaster and finishing.

Each of us can equip on our site even a small, but real bathhouse, which would allow us to take all the basic bathing procedures in fairly comfortable conditions. Knowing the advantages, features and inevitable disadvantages that the walls in the bath from various materials, you will be able to create a structure of the original design that most fully meets your wishes. There is unlimited scope for your creativity, but subject to specific conditions and all possible options.

Let's talk about walls - the most important structural element of buildings.

The most traditional and popular is the wooden bath.

log walls

Logs, as they say, “breathe”, and therefore log bath requires almost no ventilation. It happens by itself, as it penetrates and exits through the walls of logs. required amount air. But still, fragrances for ventilation in the bathhouse need to be done in order to quickly cool it after washing. Thanks to the logs, the indoor humidity levels are also automatically adjusted. Therefore, the vapor barrier of the bath structure of them can be minimal. But the tree is a fire hazard, so before treating the partitions in the bath with any insulating material, impregnate them with a fire retardant.

Tree trunks should be chosen seasoned, straight. Such material after laying provides a tight fit. The best species are spruce and pine of the northern regions. But this is not critical. Good for a bath, for example, and linden. Wood should have a specific smell of resin. But pay attention - in the body of the log there should be as few resin pockets as possible, which can flow in a hot atmosphere, and knots.

The ends of the trunks from the butt on the inside are cut off to a size equal to the diameter of the top. The work must be done from the top to the butt - so there will be no badass. In the process of laying a log house, a thin one is placed at the thick end of the log.

Articulation of logs at the corners can be done different methods, as long as the strength of the structure was adequately ensured. For walls made of round lumber, corners are cut into a cup, into an oblo, or into a paw. The log cabin "in the paw" is made from trunks of the same thickness.

At the ends, paws are marked according to a template, their size depends on the diameter of the trunks. The lower crown is not shy. Remember: for it you need to use the highest quality material. When sampling, the cup is cut down from the bottom.

Crowns for greater strength are connected along the length of the logs with spikes every 1.5 m, in the last pair of crowns more often - ceiling beams are mounted between them. The diameter of the spikes is 2.5 cm, the height is 12-15 cm. The nests for them are drilled 2-3 cm deeper.

Insulation of the building outside the bath, between logs or timber is done with tow, moss or felt. After the construction of the structure, the insulation is compacted - caulked. Caulking should be done twice - so it is correct to insulate the walls of the bath. The first time this is done after the completion of the work, and the second - after 1 year, after the shrinkage stops.

The first crown of the building is the first two (lower) logs and the second two (upper). First, a couple of first logs are laid exactly horizontally on opposite sides at the same distance from each other. Then two second trunks are placed on them at an angle of 90 degrees and the cutting of the angular joints into a cup begins. The trunks of the second crown are placed with butts in opposite directions.

Timber walls

This material for the walls of the bath is more convenient.
If you have sufficient funds, you can purchase ready-made, industrially produced, profiled timber or planed timber of natural moisture. If not, you will have to cook for yourself. The bars are made from logs, sawing the trunks into four edges. The cross section of the product is 15x15 cm. At the corners, the timber is also cut into the “paw”, “into the cloud”, etc. To increase strength, plug-in or root spikes are used, while placing them vertically.

When installing a log house, the timber is laid one above the other. The thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from this lumber is carried out using felt - it is laid between the bars. So that the bars of the lowest crown do not collapse, a board is placed under them, the thickness of which is 4-5 cm, the width is 20-30 cm. In order for such insulation of the bath to be maintained at the proper level, the board is impregnated with an antiseptic or covered with bitumen mastic. Then it is wrapped in two layers with roofing material and laid necessarily on some kind of waterproofing. The insulation of the walls of the bath must be reliable - an insulating material is laid on the lining, and a crown is already mounted on it. The bottom from the crown is evenly either planed or hewn - this gives a snug fit of the material to the lining. A second crown is placed on the crown crown, and the next crown is placed on it, not forgetting to lay felt material between the grooves of the beam, which serves as a heater for such walls in the bath. To remove atmospheric moisture from the bottom of the walls, a groove is made in the second crown, into which the roofing sheet is inserted, calculating that its width allows the drain to hang over the base by about 5 cm.

Frame baths

The most economical of all types of walls - frame. They need 2 times less wood than for log and cobblestone.

The most dangerous enemy of frame-type walls is moisture inside the cavities of structures. Therefore, in order to protect the frame and the insulation inside it from destructive moisture, from inside the premises, vapor barrier of all walls of such baths is necessary. It is arranged using either traditional materials - roofing material, glassine, or you can purchase modern polymeric vapor barrier agents - special films based on polyethylene, polyester, etc. Aluminum foil is also used to isolate the insulation and walls of the bath. These materials are placed on top of the structural insulation frame bath and fix either with small cloves or a stapler.

The walls of such baths themselves are hard wooden frame, which is mounted on the foundation and sewn up on both sides with boards. Inside the space is filled with insulation. The most suitable insulation for the walls of a frame-type bath is fiberglass or mineral wool. The structures are knocked down from pre-made frames, which consist of racks, crossbars and harnesses. It is very good if each wall consists of a separate frame.

The installation of frame walls should begin with the arrangement of the base trim, consisting of boards with parameters of 5-10 cm. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the length of the joints is twice the thickness of the board. All such plinth connections are made on supports.

The basement boards when arranging the walls of the frame bath are mounted exactly horizontally. With small deviations, they are corrected by gaskets from several layers of roofing paper or wedges of different thicknesses. Horizontalness should be checked as often as possible, with a bubble level. The correctness of the binding rectangle is checked by measuring its diagonals.

The distance in the frames for the frame between the axes of the racks should be 60 cm. If it is necessary to arrange wall openings, as well as at the points of junction with other walls or partitions, this figure may vary, but not be more than 1 m.

Where the door and window openings will be located, the step of the racks should be determined by the parameters of the window and door frames. If necessary, you can add window and overhead racks. At the junction points of the walls with each other, a rack is also equipped. All racks, strapping and crossbars are spliced with nails. The strapping is nailed only above the racks.

The assembly of the walls of frame baths begins with the formation of one corner. One of the frames is placed on the basement strapping and, after checking with a plumb line for the correctness of the vertical line, it is temporarily fixed. Then the next frame is mounted at an angle of 90 degrees and with the same operations. For good stability, the lower and upper trims of already installed frames are connected with boards in the junction corner.

After mounting all the frames, the correctness of their vertical position and the horizontality of the upper trim is checked for the last time. Then the structures are attached to the base trim and nailed to each other. Then, the same is done with the lower trim of the frames and the same base trim.

Sheathing of the walls of the frame-type bath is made from available materials. The outer walls can also be plastered, in addition to strength, this also gives them insulation from the outside of the bath. For this purpose, an oblique lining of chipped boards is stuffed onto the frame - this gives the light walls the necessary rigidity. Stucco shingles are already stuffed along the lining.

But most often outside the frame of the baths is sheathed with spruce or pine boards. They must be beaten horizontally, thus providing additional rigidity of the building. In this case, impregnation for the walls of the bath with special anti-combustible compounds will be useful. They dramatically reduce the ability of wood to ignite. Many of these mixtures also have antifungal and antiseptic properties. You can use different variations of the articulation of the boards. Remember that when stuffing butt, additional waterproofing of the walls of the bath should be carried out. This is a layer of roofing felt or roofing felt, which is placed under the boards. Between the inner and outer skins, the walls of the frame bath are insulated - this gap is filled with mineral wool or fiberglass. To prevent rotting, it is good to cover the outer walls with drying oil, primer or paint. Interior decoration bath designs should not contain paints and varnish. During the heating of the bath, these materials emit a lot of harmful substances, and besides, the paints are vapor-tight.

brick baths

Brick or block baths are much more durable than wooden ones and, last but not least, they are not fire hazardous. But the brick has a high thermal conductivity, so the room heats up more slowly. The lining inside the bath helps to reduce its thermal conductivity. At the same time, the walls are also insulated in brick bath- a layer of heat-insulating material is laid between the lining rails and the wall. What material to make such insulation of a brick bath, we will tell a little later.

Produce brickwork one and a half, and preferably two bricks. Place partitions in 1/4 or 1/2 bricks.
Place plinths above the level of waterproofing from hollow bricks - this best material for the bottom of the bath walls. The walls themselves are made of silicate or red brick.

The strength of the masonry, in addition to the quality of building materials, depends on the correctness of all your actions. Connect each new row of bricks with the bottom row with a horizontal seam 1.2 cm thick, bricks in one row - with joint seams 1 cm thick. So that the masonry does not delaminate, dressing of the seams is necessary. In addition, it helps the load to be evenly distributed. With a single-row type of ligation of seams, it is necessary to alternate bond (brick across) and spoon (brick along) rows. With multi-row - the rows of the spoon type are tied with bonders every 5 rows.

Rows of masonry from poking, placed on the edge, should be done only as the upper ledge of the walls. In order for the hitch to be of high quality, it is necessary to adhere to the same dimensions in all rows. They should be equal to the height of the brick with the thickness of the seam.

How to properly insulate the walls of a brick bath?

It is necessary to insulate the walls in a brick bath. Now, both in Russia and abroad, slab heaters are produced in a large assortment - polystyrene foam, wood concrete, kostramit, fiberboard, etc. These are high quality and modern materials. Therefore, do not think about how to insulate the brick walls of the bath - use them. Fasten the boards with clamps to interior walls or with synthetic adhesive. Cut strips from the insulation and install them in a spacer to the insulation of the outer structure at a distance of 0.5 meters from each other. Between the internal insulation of the walls of the bath and the external - there should be an air gap.

Waterproofing the walls of a brick bath

When using any material, it is important to isolate all the walls of the bath from steam and moisture. This is especially true of brick, because it absorbs moisture very well. All places where there is a danger of moisture penetration, and especially the walls of the washing room in the bath, must be waterproofed in one of two reliable ways: painting or pasting.

Pasting waterproofing - gluing roofing material or other rolled insulating materials to the walls of the house. Painting waterproofing is a treatment of walls in a bath bituminous mastic or special primer. To prepare such a mastic, bitumen is used in a mixture with talc, asbestos and lime. Waterproofing impregnations for bath walls are industrial polymer compositions. They also include antiseptics, so that after their use in the bath, mold does not appear on the walls.

Wall decoration in baths made of bricks or blocks

Brick walls must be plastered. For this, lime-cement mortars with light fillers are used. These are pumice, slag, expanded clay, etc. Walls can be plastered on both sides. But on the inside, you will need to additionally make lining with clapboard, among other things - this is additional insulation of all the walls of the bath from the inside.

Interior decoration of the walls of a brick bath

To facilitate trimming internal walls in a bath with a tree, it is highly desirable to mount wooden corks into the masonry, on which the slats will beat.

In the resulting internal space, the thermal insulation of the walls of the bath is mounted with slab building materials or "blankets". A foil vapor barrier is also installed there.

How to insulate the walls in the bath with "blankets"? Very simple - they are made from mineral wool, parchment and tow. In advance, knock down a table with boards from the boards, the length of which is equal to the height of the wall, and the width is equal to the width of the parchment. Then spread glassine on this table, insulation for the wall of the bathhouse and again glassine. Through the previously left gaps between the boards of the impromptu table, sew your “blanket” with twine.

If you sheathe the building with boards arranged horizontally, then instead of the described methods, you can make the walls of the bathhouse insulated from the inside with bulk material, for example, expanded clay. If desired, you can sheathe the outer walls.

How to plaster the wall between the bath and sink. How to plaster a stove for a bath. Exterior finishing works

Recipes for plasters

The tool you need to get the job done

What is plastering

Determining the quality of clay at home

Plaster solutions based on alabaster

Cement-based plaster mixes

The procedure for plastering the oven and basic working techniques

Conclusion

Finishing the bath: choosing the best materials for the steam room, washing and changing rooms

steam room

Wall and ceiling materials

Floor

washing room

locker room

Conclusion

Problem Features

The choice of plaster composition

Recipe selection

Required tool

Process features

How to plaster a brick oven

How to make mortar for plastering the oven

Tool you need for the job

Work technology

Possible Problems and How to Fix Them

Step-by-step instructions for high-quality plastering of a brick oven with a photo

Preparing a room for plastering a brick oven

About materials and tools

Surface preparation

Plaster solutions

Solution preparation rules

Step-by-step instructions for plastering the oven

Exterior finishing works

How to plaster the oven so that it does not crack

Frame baths

brick baths

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