Making a stove from an old bath with your own hands. Garden stove from a bathtub Stove from a bathtub sawn in half

If somewhere in the garage or in the country an old cast-iron bath is lying around, you should not rush to hand it over for scrap. From it you can make an excellent outdoor oven and install in the garden.

The stove will become from an old unnecessary thing decoration and great helper, delighting guests and households with delicious and original dishes.

Most often, a garden barbecue oven is made from old cast-iron bathtubs. Cast iron, from which the bath is made, has a high thermal conductivity, keeps warm for a long time and allows you to cook not only the usual food, but even bake bread and other unique dishes.

How to make a stove out of an old cast-iron bath?

The essence of the construction is that the bath cut in half. The resulting halves are placed one on top of the other, with the curved side outward and laid metal sheet between them.

It separates the firebox and the chamber in which the dishes will be prepared. Holes are made in the iron sheet and the upper half of the bath for chimney and the pipe is welded.

It remains to strengthen the structure, to give it interesting view, insert grate and do doors.

Necessary materials and inventory

To build a garden stove you will need:

herself bath, it can be steel, but better - cast iron;
Bulgarian;
edged metal cutting wheels;
circles for grinding;
Metal sheet thick 5 mm and more;
drill;
bolts;

heat resistant sealant;
tape measure or roulette;
pencil or marker;
welding machine ;
pipe for the chimney;
grate;
bricks;
clay;
sand.

Preparatory work

Before embarking on the construction of a structure, you need make all the pieces:

Mark the middle of the bath and cut it in half - this work is laborious and dusty, so better to spend it outside by turning the tub upside down.
Cut a blank from a metal sheet according to the size of the resulting halves.
On a cut sheet of iron and half of the bath, which will be on top, mark holes for the chimney and cut them out.
weld pipe into the partition and bring it out through the top.
Do markings for fasteners.

Important! All work on sawing, grinding edges and trimming the iron sheet must be carried out wearing goggles. And welding work special mask.

Building a stove with your own hands

When all preliminary the work is done, you can proceed directly to the construction of the furnace itself.

Foundation

Furnace design pretty heavy, so you can't do without a foundation. It will not allow the device to shrink and deform.

For a structure that is not heavy in weight, the foundation can be brick. For more weighty is done bulk- depth up to 50 cm. In order for the furnace to be at a convenient level, supports of the desired height are concreted into the foundation.

Further work is being carried out after complete drying foundation.

Construction assembly: photo

Half of the bath, which is reserved for the lower furnace part of the furnace, coated with sealant, top is covered with pre-cut iron sheet with built-in chimney. It is possible to insert cast iron into this sheet hob.

Photo 1. Cast iron bath, neatly sawn in half, is prepared for the application of sealant.

Top design covered by the second half baths, bottom up, passing the chimney into a pre-cut hole. The edges in contact with the metal sheet are also coated with sealant.
Both halves of the bath and a sheet between them bolted together.

Photo 2. The connected halves of the bath form the body of the furnace: the combustion chamber and the cooking compartment.

Finished construction attached to supports in the foundation and lined with bricks. Masonry can be only behind and on the sides, or on all sides.
In the lower part - the combustion chamber - is installed grate.

Photo 3. The oven, assembled from two halves of the bath, is almost ready. It remains to attach the doors.

If the design of the furnace provides for closed brickwork firebox and blower, then at work immediately doors are mounted: for the blower in the lower part, for the firebox - a little higher, opposite the grate.

Important! The damper or door handle must be wooden to avoid burns.

The wall is laid out to the junction of the edges of the bath with each other. Bricks should fit snugly against all edges of the oven.

For top compartment stoves are provided shutter or doors. In a tightly closed part, you can not only cook any dishes, but even bake bread.

Insulation of the cooking chamber

Upper half drags on chain-link mesh, throws 1 part clay to 2 parts sand, thickness up to 7 cm and aligns. Can decorate the top wild stone, pieces heat resistant tiles or simply whitewash.

The final stage

That's it - oven ready, you can already use it. But many try to give it more modern look why rough work is hidden beautiful brickwork, veneer wild stone or decorative tiles.

Photo 4. Ready-made whitewashed cast-iron stove from the bath, installed in the garden on a brick base.

Possible difficulties during work

Problems during the construction of a garden stove, there may be on preparatory stage when cutting the old cast iron bath.

Advice. Work is carried out with glasses and tight clothes covering the body.

Need to cut it carefully, don't rush. First, a layer of enamel is cut along the marking line to prevent chipping. Then the cast iron is cut at an angle, making small cuts, and not allowing the grinder to overheat. To prevent the disk from being pinched by the tub halves, the incision site is bursting wooden stick or brick.

What just do not come up with to build with their own hands craftsmen from improvised means. If you have an old one, which is usually adapted for watering the garden, and the construction of a bath is brewing, then you can save a lot by making a stove in the steam room from this bath. We will tell you how to make such an oven step by step with photos and videos.

Advantages of cast iron

A cast iron bath stove will last forever. Even enamel will not burn quickly. IN Soviet time enamel was applied in two layers. The enamel contained quartz sand. After enamel coating, the product was baked in an oven at a temperature of more than 800 degrees. The sand melted, and such a coating served for decades. The enamel could only be damaged by a strong blow from a heavy object.

A cast iron tub is strong enough to be used as a stove.

In addition, cast iron has a high heat capacity, well accumulates and gives off heat. Not afraid of corrosion. The industry produces furnaces and grates made of cast iron, as it does not burn out for a long time, unlike steel. But cast iron is a fairly brittle metal.

Bath cut

Sawing a bath is best on the street, after turning it upside down. Cast iron is a brittle metal, so the procedure requires accuracy. The cut is done by a grinder. Get several cutting discs at once. We make markings, and then slightly incise the enamel along the line so that chips do not form with a full cut. We saw through cast iron at a slight angle and make sure that the tool does not heat up. We take breaks. To prevent the halves of the sawn tub from pinching the disc at the final stage of cutting, place supports made of wood or brick along the edges of the cut.

Cutting the bathroom is done by a grinder

Foundation for the oven

The type of foundation depends on the total weight of the furnace:

a brick base is suitable for a light oven. Bricks are laid on edge and bound with mortar. Grade of cement for binder solution is not less than M300;
for a heavy furnace weighing more than 700 kg, a self-leveling foundation with a depth of at least 50 cm is required. Formwork is made and poured liquid concrete with or without filler. The filler will be a broken brick of fine fraction or gravel.

It is possible to build a furnace only on a solid and heat-resistant foundation.

The top of the base is arranged flush with the floor or 15 cm below the floor level. To protect the base from moisture, the bottom and walls of the formwork are lined with roofing material and all joints are coated with bitumen.

Advice. The base should protrude beyond the boundaries of the furnace by 50 cm. In front of the combustion chamber, 1.2 m of space should remain free.

Furnace No. 1

This version of the furnace is able to warm up a bath of 7 square meters. m to 80 degrees in just a couple of hours. To build a furnace, you will need scrap metal: a cast-iron bath, a gas cylinder and a metal drum from a 40 cm diameter conveyor belt. The drum can be replaced gas cylinder or a pipe - this will be the combustion chamber. The sequence of work is as follows:

Advice. If a flat metal platform, then you get a stove for heating the kettle.

Furnace No. 2

From a cast-iron bath sawn into two parts, you can make a combustion chamber for sauna stove. You will need one half, the second can be used for a fireplace.

The remaining half can be used to build a fireplace. Cast iron can easily withstand brickwork if the fireplace is lined with an arched vault. And for this you do not need to make a complex template from plywood. The front part is made out by a portal. The chimney is removed. You can make the fireplace closed by installing a transparent door on the firebox and admire the flame.

Advice. Cast iron and red ceramic bricks have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Therefore, when building brick walls provide for expansion joints that are filled with asbestos or refractory cardboard made of basalt.

Furnace No. 3

The third version of the stove is often used as a garden barbecue and for cooking in the summer. If the upper chamber is filled with stones, then this design will replace the traditional oven in small bath, so we will not bypass this model.

Such non-standard designs are easy to manufacture and require minimal financial costs. A thing that has served its purpose will receive a second life, and you will receive a convenient and practical stove that will serve you faithfully for many years.

Universal sauna stove: video

Stove for a bath from a cast-iron bath: photo

A cast-iron bathtub made back in Soviet times is a durable, solid and very heavy product. However, the once white enamel is losing its former luster, and it is unlikely to be restored. It’s a pity to hand over a bathtub by the weight of scrap metal or drag it to a landfill. What else can be done with it? Some owners of country cottages and summer cottages suggest using this cast-iron product with more useful: do-it-yourself oven from old bath. Agree, this is original and rational. Such an oven will be able to decorate the estate and make it possible to cook delicious dishes.

Required materials and tools

To independently build a stove from a cast-iron bath, you will need to stock up on the necessary tools.

Here is an exhaustive list of them:

grinder (angle grinder), as well as discs for it (cleaning and cutting);
electric drill and a set of drills;
equipment that allows gas cutting of metal elements (if any);
spanners different sizes, hammer and pliers;
crowbar and shovel;
container where the solution will be mixed;
spatula and trowel;
measurement tool: building level, plumb line, tape measure, metal corner;
a welding machine (it will be needed to mount the chimney), as well as electrodes for it and a protective mask;
hacksaw for woodworking.

The main element of the furnace is a cast-iron bath. However, the stove has a significant weight, so it must have a foundation. For its construction, a certain amount of sand is needed, cement mortar, bricks, as well as clay and water.

Making a cast iron bath stove is much cheaper and more profitable than buying a new one.

In addition, you will need:

corner (metal);
metal sheet (4 mm);
lattice of a certain size;
the pipe necessary for the manufacture of the chimney (length - from 2 to 3 m, diameter - from 10 to 12.5 cm, wall thickness - from 3 mm);
hinges for doors;
Rabitz;
polyethylene film (necessary for waterproofing the foundation);
board (thickness - from 2 to 2.5 cm);
slats (2 by 2 cm);
nails.

Making a stove from an old bath with your own hands: step by step instructions

So, let's look at how you can independently make a stove from a cast-iron bath.

For country house you can make a furnace from an old cast-iron bath, which in terms of strength and service life will not be inferior to models from the factory

First we build the foundation.

Using a cord and stakes, we mark the foundation.
We dig a trench, the depth of which should not be less than 50 cm. We put layers of sand and gravel on the bottom, after which we carefully tamp them down.
On top of the sand and gravel cushion, we put a waterproofing layer, as a rule, which is polyethylene.
To raise the base of the foundation, we build a formwork in the center. Usually a common formwork is built, and the pouring is carried out to a height of at least 30 cm.
Reinforcement of the free volume is carried out and it is filled with a solution of cement and sand (1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand). You can also fill the volume with brickwork.
After pouring the foundation, it must definitely harden.

Now it's time to design the stove itself.

To this end, we perform the following actions:

We cut cast iron bath across. This must be done carefully, as cast iron is very brittle. If the movements are sloppy, abrupt, you can damage the bath so that it becomes unsuitable for subsequent work.
We take half of the cut bath, after which we install it on top, and in such a way that we get a design that looks like a capsule with a cut.
Further, a sheet of metal with a thickness of more than 5 mm will be needed for work. For the construction, you will need two halves of the bath and a metal sheet, which is necessary to separate the lower part from the upper (fuel zone from the place where food is cooked).

In the sheet of metal, it is necessary to provide a hole for the chimney, located near the rear wall. The chimney starts from the lower chamber, and then goes through the entire stove.

In order to fix the two halves of the bath and the metal sheet with maximum reliability, it is advisable to use fasteners. To prevent smoke from the chamber located on top, a special sealant, which is called a stove, should be used.

The chimney is attached to a metal sheet using welding.

We install the blank of the stove on the bricks. To prevent the structure from falling, it is very important to align it. Before starting to weld, it is recommended to heat the cast iron a little (for example, the material will become much more pliable if the firewood is heated in the chamber).
In the lower chamber, we close the front part with a metal sheet, making a large diameter hole in it before that (through this hole, firewood will be thrown into the chamber).
We make chamber doors for the furnace and for cooking.

Well, a simple and fairly functional stove is ready. It remains only a little: to decorate the structure decoratively, making it a decoration of the yard. The stove can be painted, for example, in a folk style. No one will even think that a cast-iron bath was used to make the product.

Sauna stove from an old bath

A cast iron bath can be the basis of a good kitchen stove. However, it is quite possible to make an excellent sauna stove from it, and with your own hands.

Cast iron is an environmentally friendly material, so when heated, no harmful substances not highlighted

Building a bathhouse and equipping a stove in it will require certain skills, so it makes sense to consult a professional before construction.

There are certain requirements for sauna stoves:

All such ovens must have enough power (thermal), and they must also have a large range of its adjustment.
To change the mode of heat and moisture, the device is equipped with a heat accumulator and a steam generator.
Furnaces should be able to adjust the convention.

So, from a worn-out cast-iron bath, you can make a simple two-tier sauna stove that meets all the requirements listed above. The lower tier of the stove is one half of the bathtub, which faces the wall with a cut, and the convex part upwards. The entire structure must be lined with bricks from the outside. The required steam generation is provided thanks to the stones that cover part of the "bath-furnace". Heat accumulation takes place in the upper chamber.

The principle of operation of the stove is quite simple. When passing through a cast-iron bath, the gas warms up the stones, then reaches the so-called bread chamber located on the opposite side. Then the gas flow makes a "dive" (goes down and immediately up), after which it exits the pipe. A damper is located at the bottom of the furnace to prevent smoke emission.

Cast iron stoves: let's evaluate the benefits

Why is a homemade cast-iron stove (in our case, a cast-iron bath stove) so profitable? Cast iron is one of the best materials for this purpose, however, factory-made cast iron stoves are quite expensive. This material gained popularity due to its strength, although it is fragile. In addition, it is resistant to critically high temperatures and unpretentious in operation.

Modern cast iron stoves are especially popular

Comparing cast iron and brick oven, let's say that the thermal conductivity is much better for the first. And since in the bath high temperature support is not constant, the material should not be sensitive to temperature changes.

IN winter time bath for suburban area usually they don’t heat, because of which the brick sometimes begins to crumble, while cast iron does not know such problems. Concerning fire safety, then only a new brick oven is absolutely not dangerous. In an old product, sparks can break through cracks.

In order to enhance the aesthetics of a do-it-yourself cast-iron bath stove, it is best to brick it. If some blocks are damaged, they can be easily replaced.

Steel competes with cast iron. In terms of heating rate and strength, steel furnaces are not inferior to cast iron ones, but the service life of the former is significantly shorter. Perhaps the main weak point steel furnaces is their susceptibility to corrosion. In cast iron, this problem is not so pronounced.

Having made a stove from a cast-iron bath, you will become the owner of a convenient and reliable device that performs well in all conditions. From such a bath you can also make a very original fireplace for a summer residence. It is especially suitable for those who are currently laying a country house, since the fireplace, as it were, is “sunk” into a brick wall, and this makes it possible to use the space with maximum benefit.

Video: Universal miracle stove from a cast-iron bath

Having appreciated all the advantages of cast iron (for example, compared to steel) and the relative ease of making a bath from a cast-iron bath, we note that it is very profitable to make a bath from this material on your own. So, if you want to make a stove from an old bath with your own hands, buy the missing material, pick up the tools and get started!

An old cast-iron bath is a very heavy and solid thing. The product of the Soviet industry is famous for its fundamentality and durability. But over time, snow-white enamel loses its luster and cannot be restored. Then the bath goes to the landfill. But many summer residents and owners of private houses use cast-iron construction more rationally. The stove from the bath not only allows you to cook amazing dishes, but also becomes a decoration of the estate.

Building a stove from a cast-iron bath with your own hands will require the use of the following tools:

angle grinder (Bulgarian);
Cutting and cleaning discs for angle grinders;
Electric drill, drills;
Pliers, wrenches;
If available - equipment for gas cutting of metal;
Trench tool - shovels, scrap;
Hammer;
Trowel, spatula;
A container for preparing a solution;
Measuring tool - tape measure, plumb line, metal corner, building level;
Welding machine for mounting the chimney, mask, electrodes;
Hacksaw for wood (for the construction of formwork).

The beginning of construction implies the presence of a cast-iron bath. The furnace from the bath has a foundation, since the total weight of the structure takes on a decent value. In addition to the bathroom, you will need the following materials:

Cement;
Sand;
Red brick;
Water;
Clay;
Sheet of metal with a thickness of 4 mm;
Metal corner;
Homemade or factory grill of the appropriate size;
Metal and hinges for doors;
Chimney pipe with a wall thickness of at least 3.5 mm, a diameter of 100 - 125 mm, a length of 2.5 - 3 meters;
Foundation waterproofing material - polyethylene film;
Rabitz;
Boards 20 - 25 mm thick, nails, slats 20x20 mm.

The first stage of construction is cutting the old bathroom across into two equal parts. This operation is performed using a grinder. First, the cutting line is marked - the line is applied with a marker on the enamel or with chalk on the outer part of the bowl. Cutting is best done on the outside of the bowl, but if this is not possible, you can cut on the inside.

Cutting iron products is a long and laborious job. For this work, apply professional tool, in the absence of such, it is necessary to take breaks in work, otherwise the grinder may burn out.

When working, safety conditions must be observed. It is better to wear a protective mask on your face, otherwise the smallest particles of enamel can get into your eyes. When cutting cast iron, a large amount of dust is generated - breathing must be protected with a gauze bandage or a respirator. The room where the work is carried out must be isolated from adjacent rooms - dust cleaning will subsequently cause serious difficulties.

When cutting the bowl, the bath must be fixed so that the disc of the grinder does not pinch. Fragments of a disc that burst during operation can cause injury. Sawing a bathroom takes, on average, about 45 - 60 minutes (excluding breaks). The speed of work always depends on the level of ownership of the tool.

It is necessary to take into account the structure of cast iron - it has a low impact strength. Therefore, it is impossible to apply strong blows, to heavily load the bath with mechanical forces.

Furnace installation

The stove from an old bath, located on a summer cottage or land plot of a private house, consists of three main parts:

Firebox from an old bathroom;
Furnace foundation;
Brickwork, cladding.

After preparing the bathroom (cut into two equal parts), they begin to build the foundation.

Foundation construction

With the help of pegs and a cord, the future foundation is marked. The foundation is made from concrete mortar or brickwork.

First, a rectangular trench is torn off, its depth should be at least 500 mm. A layer of sand and gravel is laid at the bottom of the trench, the layers are compacted. A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the pillow - usually a plastic film. In the central part, a formwork is being constructed to raise the base of the foundation for the firebox. Most often, a common formwork is simply constructed and the foundation is poured to a height of at least 250 - 300 mm from the ground level.

The free volume is reinforced and filled with a solution of cement and sand in the proportion of 1 measure of cement to 3 measures of sand. In another case, the volume is filled with brickwork.

After completing the work on the construction of the foundation, he is given time for high-quality solidification.

Assembly work

After the foundation has solidified, assembly work begins. The first half of the bowl is installed on the base of the foundation (without drain holes). On top of the turn of the bowl, a sheet of metal cut according to the bathroom template is laid on a heat-resistant sealant.

Sometimes holes are cut into the sheet for use as a cooking surface.

A hole is cut in the ceiling sheet, corresponding to the diameter of the selected chimney pipe. The pipe is welded to the floor slab using electric arc welding.

The second half of the bathroom is laid on the floor sheet. The joint is preliminarily laid with heat-resistant sealant, instead of the drain (lower) hole, a passage for the chimney is cut. First, a hole is marked along the cross section of the pipe used, then holes are drilled according to the marking. It is dangerous to knock out a drilled element - cast iron is brittle - therefore, the holes are connected by slots in the grinder.

Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the junction of two hemispheres of the bathroom, the joint is pulled together with M10 or M12 bolts. Fasteners are installed in increments of 150 - 200 mm. When tightening the bolts, do not use excessive force - the cast iron may burst. In the lower hemisphere, at a height of 15 cm from the lower point of the vault, the supports for the grate are bolted. The installation of supports is mandatory, otherwise, when the grate is shifted, burning firewood will fall into the lower part of the firebox and the quality of combustion will be impaired. The main work on the construction of the firebox has been completed.

The front part of the firebox is equipped in two ways - from metal and into brickwork. In the case of using a sheet of metal, it is marked and cut to the appropriate size with a grinder. It is fastened to the split end of the firebox through metal corners attached to the bowl and sheet through holes with bolts. Openings are cut in the plane of the sheet for the small (lower) door of the blower and the large upper door of the furnace (used to load fuel). Doors are usually installed on welded hinges.

The cost of metal and the amount of work in such an implementation of the front part of the furnace exceed the option of installing brickwork. When laying from the end of the firebox, mortgages and openings are left in it for installing doors.

After assembling the front part, the lower hemisphere of the firebox is lined with bricks. First, the first corner is displayed (along the plumb line), then the laying is continued along the perimeter of the furnace.

After the masonry has hardened, work begins on the thermal insulation of the upper hemisphere. To do this, a chain-link mesh is laid on it. The grid should fit snugly against the surface of the furnace - for this it is fixed to the brickwork around the perimeter. The chain-link serves as a frame, a supporting structure for the clay layer. The first layer of a pre-prepared clay solution of medium viscosity is tightly clogged into the grid. After partial hardening, the finishing layer of clay is applied and leveled.

Clay should harden - it must be covered from precipitation with a film, without restricting access to air. After hardening, the clay is most often covered with several layers of lime whitewash.

A fungus must be installed on the chimney pipe to protect against precipitation.

Some craftsmen recommend using cast iron bathtubs for the construction of a sauna stove. Moreover, the cast-iron bath acts as the basis of the heater and at the same time serves as the upper vault of the firebox, it can be splashed with ice water in a hot state. Cast iron in this case may crack. To make a bath stove from a cast-iron bath - count on a certain amount of luck, not to know the properties of cast iron.

Decoration of the external facade

The external design of the furnace depends on the wishes of the owner. The masonry can be plastered and painted, various decorative mosaics are applied to it, natural stone. Decoration of the structure is not always necessary - the stove from the bathroom will always look like an amazing structure on the site.

Building a furnace from an old cast-iron bath is an event that requires equipment and some skills in carrying out installation work. But the construction of the stove is worth it - it has an excellent design and will serve its owner for many years, surprising with culinary delights and decorating the estate.

Ecology of consumption If you have an old cast-iron bath, which is usually adapted for watering the garden, and the construction of a bath is brewing, then you can save a lot by making a stove in the steam room from this bath.

A cast iron bath stove will last forever. Even enamel will not burn quickly. In Soviet times, enamel was applied in two layers. The enamel contained quartz sand. After enamel coating, the product was baked in an oven at a temperature of more than 800 degrees. The sand melted, and such a coating served for decades. The enamel could only be damaged by a strong blow from a heavy object.

Bath cut

Cutting the bathroom is done by a grinder

Foundation for the oven

The type of foundation depends on the total weight of the furnace:

a brick base is suitable for a light oven. Bricks are laid on edge and bound with mortar. Grade of cement for binder solution is not less than M300;
for a heavy furnace weighing more than 700 kg, a self-leveling foundation with a depth of at least 50 cm is required. Formwork is made and poured with liquid concrete with or without filler. The filler will be a broken brick of fine fraction or gravel.

Advice. The base should protrude beyond the boundaries of the furnace by 50 cm. In front of the combustion chamber, 1.2 m of space should remain free.

Furnace No. 1

This version of the furnace is able to warm up a bath of 7 square meters. m to 80 degrees in just a couple of hours. To build a furnace, you will need scrap metal: a cast-iron bath, a gas cylinder and a metal drum from a conveyor belt with a diameter of 40 cm. The drum can be replaced with a gas cylinder or pipe - this will be a combustion chamber. The sequence of work is as follows:

Advice. If a flat metal platform is welded to the cylinder, you get a stove for heating the kettle.

Furnace No. 2

From a cast-iron bath sawn into two parts, you can make a combustion chamber for a sauna stove. You will need one half, the second can be used for a fireplace.

Advice. Cast iron and red ceramic bricks have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Therefore, when erecting brick walls, expansion joints are provided, which are filled with asbestos or basalt refractory cardboard.

Furnace No. 3

The third version of the stove is often used as a garden barbecue and for cooking in the summer. If the upper chamber is filled with stones, then this design will replace the traditional stove in a small bath, so we will not bypass this model.

The foundation is poured under the furnace.
The bath is sawn into two identical components.
Supports are placed on the foundation if you want the furnace to be higher.
The first half of the bath is installed. A sheet of metal with a thickness of at least 5 mm is laid on top, which will completely cover the upper and lower compartments and serve as a hob.
Construction of a barbecue grill from a cast-iron bath
We cut the chimney pipe into the sheet and weld it along the contour by welding.
We install the second half from above with the bottom up, after cutting out a hole for the chimney.
We glue the metal sheet and halves of the cast-iron device with high-temperature sealant. This will prevent smoke from entering the upper chamber.
We clamp both parts with clamps and drill holes for 10 mm bolts along the contour. We fasten both parts of the bath and the metal sheet.
We lay out a brick pedestal under the oven of three walls.
The grate is installed 15 cm from the bottom combustion chamber. If the size of the grate is small, then two corners are welded to install it.
The front part is closed with a sheet of metal or brickwork with the installation of a door opposite the combustion and blower chambers.
Finished Cast Iron Bath and Sheet Metal Product
A metal shutter is made according to the size of the upper chamber. In this form, the chamber can be used as an oven.
Now it remains to give the product a noble look: veneer the brick with tiles or plaster.

Making a stove from an old bath with your own hands. Garden stove from a bathtub Stove from a bathtub sawn in half

How to make a stove out of an old cast-iron bath?

Necessary materials and inventory

Preparatory work