Warming of facades of wooden houses. All the nuances of warming an old wooden house, what materials to choose and how to mount it yourself. Calculation of the amount of insulation

High-quality insulation of the house is the key to a comfortable life in the cold season. Therefore, so that frosts do not disturb in winter, it is worth thinking about the choice of material and insulation technology in advance. This applies to all cases, including insulation wooden house outside. Consider what you should pay attention to when choosing suitable material, as well as how to do everything you need yourself when it comes to a building made of wood.

There are a lot of thermal insulation materials. Some of them are very popular among consumers, and some, on the contrary, are used quite rarely. Consider what characteristics determine popularity, and which options are used more often than others:

stone wool in slabs – lightweight and comfortable material, which is transported without problems and can be cut even with a conventional knife. These plates are laid between the frame elements, and then covered with a vapor barrier and waterproofing material from different sides. The main thing is not to compress or tamp them during the transportation of mats, as they are easily deformed;

ecowool is a material created on the basis of cellulose, which is pressed and packaged. For insulation with its help, two options can be used. In the first case, I take out the cotton wool from the open package, and slightly kneading it, ram it into the walls. It is difficult to say unequivocally how good this method is. Some manufacturers claim that with such insulation you will not know problems from 10 to 20 years. Although it is impossible to completely deny the possibility of shrinkage and deterioration of the thermal insulation properties of the material. The second method is called wet, since ecowool is sprayed onto the walls, due to which the material seizes with the frame and the risk of settling is eliminated;
polystyrene is a very common and cheap way insulate the building. Its low cost is due to fragility, brittleness, as well as the need to additionally enclose it with a moisture-proof membrane in order to avoid the accumulation of condensate in the future. It is important that for insulation you need to buy only non-pressed foam sheets;
polyurethane foam - a material consisting of two separate components mixed together under the influence of high pressure. When in contact with air, it behaves in the same way as ordinary polyurethane foam - it expands. Warming a wooden house with polyurethane foam is quite effective and reduces heat loss to a minimum. In addition, it has the ability to repel water;
heaters of natural origin are a variety of mixtures and boards made on the basis of sawdust, straw, clay, etc. The cost of this method is low, but choosing this option, you need to be prepared to tinker. To easy-to-use natural insulation can be attributed, perhaps, flax fibers.

Other materials used for external insulation of house walls

In addition to traditional materials, there are several more options that, although they have not yet gained such popularity, still often surpass those already considered in terms of characteristics.

Basalt slabs for. The price is the only drawback that can be found in this material. Despite the similarity with mineral wool, this material is many times superior to it in terms of technical indicators and characteristics. It provides excellent thermal insulation and at the same time is able to withstand heavy loads and temperature changes. Over time, it does not shrink and does not lose its characteristics. So its considerable, in comparison with other materials, cost can be called more than justified.
Penoplex is a material that is rapidly gaining popularity, despite the fact that it has appeared on the market recently. The material is extruded polystyrene foam, characterized by low weight and good moisture resistance. This allows you to use it without laying additional waterproofing layers.
Insulation "Arctic", consists of synthetic fibers, which are fastened together under the influence of hot air. The material is excellent for use in the harshest weather conditions. This insulation is considered breathable and provides good thermoregulation in both winter and summer.

Helpful advice! When working with any type of thermal insulation material, personal protective equipment must be used to prevent fibers from entering the Airways and on the skin as it may cause irritation.

The advantages of external insulation of a wooden house over internal

Choice right way carrying out work on the insulation of a wooden house - a pledge quality result. Internal insulation of houses is used extremely rarely, since a thick layer of material will significantly reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. In addition, the insulation of the walls in a wooden house from the inside will lead to the fact that the outer side of the walls will still be exposed to cold, which will lead to freezing of the wood.

Incorrectly performed work and non-compliance with insulation technology frame house can lead to the fact that the tree begins to rot from the inside and becomes a favorable environment for the vital activity of fungi and mold. That is why the method is no less important than the choice of a material suitable for this purpose.

But with external insulation, it is also important to ensure that the vapors can freely escape. Otherwise, the wood will deteriorate and it will be impossible to control the condition of the walls.

Features of the facade insulation technology with mineral wool

When laying a heat-insulating layer, it is necessary to provide waterproofing to the walls. For this purpose, parchment is excellent. Despite its low cost, it does its job well. Initially, it is necessary to cut strips from it and fix them on the frame with a stapler. The step in this case should not exceed 12 cm.

Sheets of glassine are glued with an overlap so that the overlap is about 10 cm. This prevents condensation from entering the heat-insulating material.

Helpful advice! If after the insulation of the house it is planned to cover with siding, then care must be taken that there is free space between it and the insulation (about 30-50 cm). This will prevent moisture from lingering in the frame.

When the glassine is fixed, you can proceed to laying the insulation. Mineral wool in this case is an excellent option, as it is not prone to fire and is easy to install. The main thing is to choose the right thickness mineral wool for wall insulation. For a temperate climate, this figure should be 80-100 mm, and for regions with severe winters, material 150 mm thick can be used.

The technology of facade insulation with mineral wool provides for the following sequence of work:

it is necessary to measure the distance between the racks;
to the result we add 5 cm to the allowance on each side;
using a sharp knife, we cut the mineral slabs for wall insulation to the desired size and lay them on the wall over the waterproofing;
the joints between the frame and the insulation are additionally closed with cut strips 3-4 cm wide.

A layer of vapor barrier material must be laid on top. Penophenol is excellent, which is attached to the frame with a construction stapler. After that, it remains only to sheathe the walls with siding or edged boards, depending on your desire, and we can consider the procedure for warming a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool completed.

Helpful advice! It is necessary to lay the foam phenol strictly in a horizontal direction, while leaving 5 cm joints so that there is a foil part on the outside.

Facade insulation with extruded polystyrene foam: material features

Expanded polystyrene has an extremely low thermal conductivity, which allows it to be effectively used as a heat-insulating material, using it for external wall cladding.

For the first time, extruded polystyrene foam was used in the USA, where it immediately gained popularity due to its characteristics. Its production consists in mixing special composition, consisting of carbon dioxide and freon with a granular polymer. The resulting mixture, under the influence of high temperature, is fed into a special apparatus called an extruder. Its task is to foam the composition and ensure high-quality mixing of all components.

The mixture obtained in the extruder is formed into plates, which solidify, forming a light and durable heat-insulating material. The advantages of such a technology for insulating walls with foam from the outside include the low vapor permeability of the material, as well as durability and resistance to impact. external factors.

According to manufacturers, the service life of this material can reach 50 years if the laying technology has been observed. In its structure, expanded polystyrene is 90% air, which is enclosed in cells.

Expanded polystyrene is always used specifically for external wall insulation, since the material has a considerable volume, and internal insulation of the premises will lead to significant losses. free space. If we take into account the standard thickness of expanded polystyrene for wall insulation of 80-100 mm or 30-40 mm, laid in two layers, then such a loss of usable space inside the house will be very noticeable.

At the same time, the effectiveness of this method cannot be underestimated, since by using this heat insulator, savings of the order of 50% on heating bills are achieved. Although it is impossible not to notice the rather high price for the work. Wall insulation with expanded polystyrene from the outside, taking into account all the necessary finishing work, will cost from 1300 rubles per 1 m².

Helpful advice! In order to achieve the desired effect, it is necessary to work at a temperature not lower than 5ºС and as dry as possible.

Do-it-yourself facade insulation technology with expanded polystyrene

Like any work related to surface insulation, it all starts with the preparation and cleaning of the wall from dirt and any excess mortar. Protruding reinforcement elements and just protrusions that are not an architectural solution can interfere. When all excess is removed, it is necessary to repair all cracks and crevices and prime the surface.

When the preparation is completed, it is necessary to install vertical sags. The easiest way to do this is with nylon cords fixed in 0.5-0.7 m increments. With their help, you can see if there are dips or bulges on the wall and, if necessary, add more glue. Sometimes you have to slightly change the shape of the plate, using a special grater for this.

Helpful advice! In order for the final result to look aesthetically pleasing, check each laid element with a building level.

The technology of facade insulation with foam plastic provides that the elements are fastened to a special adhesive mixture. It is prepared according to the instructions that come with it. It is important to use the prepared amount of solution within 1.5 hours if the ambient temperature is not too high. In hot weather, this period is reduced to 40-60 minutes.

Glue is applied to the plate along the edges, as well as in five places in the middle, regardless of the thickness of the foam plastic chosen for wall insulation. This ensures its secure attachment to the wall surface. If you have to fix the heat-insulating material on a perfectly flat surface, then it is best to use a comb trowel to apply the mortar.

If you need to lay not one, but two layers of expanded polystyrene, laying should be done in such a way that the seams do not match. In addition, you will need to close up all the gaps between the plates, using small pieces of the same material or its liquid form. Mounting foam for this purpose is not recommended. And if there are any discrepancies between the elements in the places where they should be in contact, then this can be eliminated using the same grater.

In conclusion, mechanical fixation of the insulation plates is also carried out in order to eliminate the risk of their delamination from the surface. At the rate of 5-6 fasteners per sheet, they are fastened with dish-shaped dowels.

The technology of warming a wooden house with polyurethane foam

Unlike expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and other popular heaters, polyurethane foam spraying technology involves a very complex procedure associated with the use of expensive equipment. The thing is that in order for the coating to have the desired characteristics and be resistant to external factors, the mixture of the components of the solution must be supplied under the influence of very high pressure.

Related article:

The main materials used for vapor barrier, their pros and cons. Features of installation of vapor barrier inside and outside a wooden house.

However, such conditions are fully justified by the fact that the service life of such a heater is from 30 to 50 years. In addition, by making a choice in favor of this option, you can provide the house not only with the preservation of heat, but also with excellent sound insulation, which no other material used for insulation can boast of.

Another quality of polyurethane foam is the ability to take any shape, which makes it convenient to apply it to the relief surfaces of the wall and timber.

True, it is most likely that it will not work to do all the work on your own, since it is more than not justified to purchase expensive equipment. It is much more rational to invite specialists for this.

Applying polyurethane foam to the exterior walls of the house is as follows:

at the agreed time, a team of professionals arrives at your home in a minibus, inside which is everything necessary equipment, as well as the components necessary for the preparation of the mixture;
to the places where the spraying will be carried out, they stretch hoses through which the finished mixture is supplied;
an even layer of polyurethane foam is applied to the prepared wall surface;
after solidification, all excess is removed and cleaned.

Like any other insulation, polyurethane foam lends itself perfectly to finishing. Using a reinforcing mesh, in the future, plaster can be applied on top. And if you prepare the frame in advance, then it is possible to make siding sheathing.

Technology of insulation of facades with foam plastic: features of fastening the material

Fastening foam elements to the wall is a task that requires attention if a choice is made in favor of this material. It’s worth starting work with the installation of vertical cord canopies that will help you evenly position the first element.

According to the technology of insulating the house with foam plastic from the outside, fastening is carried out using special glue, which is applied to the foam element at the edges, as well as at five points inside. This ensures that the element is securely fixed. Thus, the entire insulation is attached. And in order to provide additional strength, you can also use plastic dowels, securing the sheets with them.

The technology of insulating walls from the outside with polystyrene foam with your own hands is one of the simplest and most familiar, since this material is often used for a variety of construction work and everyone, one way or another, has come across it in everyday life. So the main task is to correctly select the thickness of the foam for insulating the walls outside the wooden house and securely fix the material.

Obviously, it is impossible to lay the sheets in such a way as to avoid cracks and gaps. Therefore, they must be sealed with. The next stage is the plastering of the surface and the laying of the reinforced mesh. This will protect the wall from the destructive influence of external factors. However, one layer will not be enough here, it is necessary to apply at least two layers of ordinary and one decorative plaster to give the building an aesthetic appearance.

How to independently make the insulation of a log house from the outside

Rigid tile materials are best suited for insulating timber houses, as they have sufficient density and are not subject to shrinkage over time. It is also important to choose the right thickness of the heat insulator. So, for example, for walls 20 cm thick, a layer of thin material is enough - 5 cm. And if we are talking about insulating a house from a 150x150 bar from the outside, then it is better to give preference to a 10 cm thick insulating material.

It is worth starting work with surface treatment with mastic, which repels water. After that, you need to install a wooden frame that will hold the insulation and become the basis for fixing the finishing finishing material.

Helpful advice! All elements wooden frame be sure to treat with antiseptic agents that prevent decay and protect the wood from moisture.

Basalt wool is best suited for insulating a house from a bar, which is attached to the surface of the walls with self-tapping screws. Fasteners must be placed at the rate of 4-6 pieces per 1 m². A diffusion membrane must be laid on top, which acts as a waterproofing agent.

Laths 5 cm thick are nailed to the wooden frame. Their task is to create a ventilation gap that will not allow moisture to accumulate. And already the finishing material is attached to the rails themselves.

Facade insulation cost various materials can be very different. Much depends on how serious costs the production of a particular insulation requires. And sometimes you have to take into account the need to purchase additional materials, for example, vapor and waterproofing layers, if necessary.

So, for example, the price for facade insulation using expanded polystyrene will be about 1600-2000 rubles per 1 m². But this is the case if all the work will be performed by a professional. If you do everything yourself, you can save a lot, because the cost of the most ordinary sheets does not exceed 30 rubles, although it happens that you need a stronger and thicker material.

Insulation of the foundation slab: is it necessary

Another way to insulate a house is to use modern materials for finishing the foundation slab, which, like walls, often becomes a source of freezing of the building and over time can begin to collapse under the influence of external factors.
For many, the need for insulation of the foundation slab is also justified by the possibility of significant savings in the future, spending 1.5-2 times less resources on heating the house.

However, simply purchasing and attaching a heater will not be enough. It is necessary to ensure the full functioning of the system, having thought through the method of removing moisture and preventing the development of fungi, mold, and corrosion processes inside. This requires accurate engineering calculations that will allow you to move the point outside the contour of the main part of the building.

In addition, it is impossible not to take into account such a phenomenon as soil heaving, which is typical for winter period and can create significant pressure on the elements of the building located in the ground. Therefore, among the tasks that are set before insulation material for the foundation slab, and also protection against this kind of mechanical influences.

Restoration and insulation according to Swedish technology: features of the method

Insulation of foundation slabs Swedish technology- one of the best foreign technologies that has become available in our area not so long ago. Consider what are the advantages of this method, and what are its main technologies:

The technique proposes the creation of a single solid structure consisting of reinforced cast concrete equipped with stiffeners. Installation is carried out on a special pillow, which is surrounded on all sides by expanded polystyrene plates;

sand is poured under the bottom of the insulation, as well as on the sides of it;
it is planned to install a special system for collecting and draining water into the drainage;
in order to reduce the load on drainage system, a blind area is provided;
inside the house, a floor heating system will be provided, which is built into the foundation at the stage of its construction.

It is interesting that in Sweden this technology has been used for more than half a century, but in Russia it was used no more than 10 years ago. But even during this short period, some features of this technology became apparent:

this method is great for building one-story and two-storey houses. But if we are talking about the construction of tall buildings, then a large number of calculations will be required, as well as permission from all official authorities;
Even at the design stage, care must be taken to eliminate the risk of flooding the building. For this purpose, a sand bed of the required height is installed. You can determine the necessary parameters by taking into account those statistical data that are considered official for a particular region;

it is necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of the area on which the construction is carried out and, based on the available data, use standard or reinforced drainage and waterproofing systems;
if construction is to be done on soils dominated by sand, then there is no need to install a water drainage system;
as in all other cases, when it comes to working with concrete, it is recommended to carry out all work in the warm season, since low temperature significantly increases the risk that the resulting design in the end will not be strong enough;
even if a team of specialists is involved in the work, the implementation of this technology takes time. It usually takes 3 to 4 weeks.

Interesting to know! Subject to the quality of all insulation work and the presence of a “warm floor” system, even if the heating is completely turned off, the heat in the house will remain for 72 hours.

Choosing the right material for the insulation of the foundation slab

When deciding on the use of Swedish technology, it is necessary to understand that not all materials that we are used to using as heaters are suitable for its implementation. First of all, consider those that are categorically not suitable for this purpose:

Mineral wool and all kinds of its analogues. Not having sufficient rigidity and strength, they are also prone to water absorption, which is unacceptable in such operating conditions.
Expanded clay and other granular materials. Their main problem is the inability to form a dense layer around the foundation, because of this they let moisture through.
Foamy polymers, the creation of which is carried out directly on construction sites. And although in this case there is no unequivocal prohibition, such a technology requires vast experience and complex expensive equipment. Although even the presence of these factors still cannot guarantee success.

Based on the foregoing, it becomes clear that perfect option to insulate the foundation of the house from the outside - polystyrene foam. Its characteristics fully meet all the requirements that apply to the material for solving all the tasks.

Among these properties, it is worth noting the following:

the standard dimensions of each slab greatly facilitate the process of laying them, allowing you to make calculations according to the available data, and ensuring high-quality and even joints;
some manufacturers produce plates equipped with special grooves on the sides, which additionally ensures the tightness of each joint;
the material is very durable and absolutely does not allow moisture to pass through;
high thermal insulation properties allow high-quality insulation without laying many layers of material or one, but too thick. One layer of plates of standard thickness will be enough.

It is also possible to insulate the blind area with extruded polystyrene foam, which will further reduce the overall heat loss of the building through the foundation and provide additional savings.

Foundation insulation technology with extruded polystyrene foam

The process of warming the foundation slab consists of several stages. Consider each of them, paying attention to the nuances of the work, as well as the difficulties that may arise during the installation process.

For this type of work, the use of 10 cm thick foam is considered quite sufficient. The only requirement is that the material must be of high quality and purchased from a reputable manufacturer.

Helpful advice! By purchasing any Construction Materials, including expanded polystyrene plates, it is better to ask the seller for a certificate for the proposed products. Before making a purchase, you need to make sure that the product meets all the specified standards.

Site preparation is to assess the existing geological features of the site, as well as the type of soil with which you will have to work. In the process of digging a hole under the foundation, care must be taken to ensure that the bottom is as even as possible. To do this, at the final stage, it is recommended to dig a recess manually.

At the bottom of the pit, a layer of sand is poured, which is necessarily compacted. Then the temporary formwork is installed and the first layer of concrete is poured. At this stage, the use of any elements for reinforcement is not yet provided.

After the first layer of concrete has hardened, polyurethane foam slabs are laid on top, which are placed in two layers in a checkerboard pattern. All joints and seams must be sealed to exclude the possibility of moisture getting into them. All this is covered on top with a layer of durable polyethylene film, overlapping it and carefully sealing the joints with adhesive tape.

It remains only to fill the main part of the foundation, which provides for the mandatory presence of reinforcing elements and is carried out according to standard technology. After the concrete has completely hardened, with the help of a special adhesive composition, expanded polystyrene plates are attached to all end parts.

As you can see, the technology for insulating the foundation with extruded polystyrene foam is not too complicated, if you familiarize yourself in advance with all the requirements for materials, as well as the order of work.

The fact that external insulation wooden houses significantly bypasses the internal in terms of efficiency, has already been proven in practice more than once. Although a lot, of course, depends on the correct selection of heat-insulating material, and on compliance with all technology requirements. Fortunately, modern market rich enough, and able to offer customers a wide selection of materials for thermal insulation of wooden houses.

04.09.2016 0 comments

The popularity of houses made of wood is only increasing every year. And for good reason. This is due to the ease and speed of construction work, as well as the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. However, the latter fact does not at all exclude the expediency of warming, especially in areas with a harsh climate. How to properly insulate wooden house outside and what? The advantages and disadvantages of popular materials, as well as important nuances of doing this kind of work with your own hands will be revealed further.

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Insulation options

Warming a wooden house from the outside has a lot of advantages:

the dimensions of the interior rooms remain unchanged;
lack of debris and dust inside the room;
there is no need to rearrange the furniture or perform any internal work;
additional protection of the structure from environmental influences;
for old houses that have lost their attractiveness, insulation is an opportunity to ennoble, transform the appearance of the building.

Note! Improper performance of work on the insulation of a wooden house from the outside can lead to mold, damage and decay of the wooden structure. Therefore, only a competent, comprehensive approach to business guarantees a high-quality, desired result.

Despite the constant discoveries and developments in the field of construction and building materials technologies, 3 options for insulation materials have confidently gained a foothold on the market:

Mineral wool.
Styrofoam.
Penoplex or polystyrene.

All of them have excellent insulating properties. However, each material has its own characteristics and disadvantages, which are extremely important to consider. A detailed consideration of each material will allow you to decide how best to insulate a wooden house.

Mineral wool, features of insulation

Mineral wool is compressed particles artificial stone, basalt and slag. It does not support combustion, which is commendable for a log house, and does not undergo deformation. This material has proven itself in construction and is widely used to insulate the walls of a wooden house.

The advantages of mineral wool with confidence include:

ease of installation;
environmental friendliness of the material, its harmlessness;
guarantees additional protection against fire;
democracy, affordability;
durability;
the structure does not deteriorate, does not change under the influence of temperature changes;
material has high temperature melting, therefore, in terms of fire safety, it is better than many.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages, although there are few of them:

the need for additional protective equipment (respirator, gloves) for construction work;
does not protect the surface of the log house from the development of fungus and mold;
hygroscopic, easily absorbs moisture, so high-quality hydro and vapor barriers are required.

When choosing mineral wool as a heater, consider the following tips:

Before warming, be sure to treat the walls of the log house with a special antiseptic solution.
Completely exclude the possibility of moisture penetration to the mineral wool. To do this, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then a heater and a layer of waterproofing.
It is necessary to mount the material with a call to half of the previous sheet of material, spaces between the elements are not allowed.
Additionally, you can limit the shift of mineral wool using anchors.
You can use not only mineral wool, but also its varieties (for example, glass wool).

Styrofoam as a heater

If it is impossible or unwilling to use mineral wool, you can insulate a wooden house with your own hands using foam. Outwardly, it is an accumulation of a large number of air, foam balls of plastic mass. In terms of insulating qualities, polystyrene (expanded polystyrene) is in no way inferior to mineral wool.

The advantages of this material include:

ease and convenience of installation;
lightness of the material;
dense surface that is not exposed to moisture and fungi;
increased soundproofing qualities;
resistance to temperature changes and precipitation;
significant service life.

The main disadvantage of the building material is unnaturalness and low fire resistance.

Warming the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam is no more difficult than with mineral wool. Rather, on the contrary, a sheet of material is easily transferred, adjusted to the required dimensions by trimming. The nuances of working with such an insulator include:

It is necessary to lay the material end-to-end.
To process gaps at the joints of polystyrene sheets, a diffusion membrane is used. It is attached to the surface with a stapler directly to the light.
The diffusion membrane must be at least 10 cm wide to ensure complete insulation of the foam joints.
Use tape to connect the membrane pieces.
Despite the stable ratio of foam to moisture, a waterproofing layer is still necessary.

Note! Many builders are categorically against the use of foam as a heat insulator. Because if the work is not properly organized, it will accelerate the development of the fungus on the walls of the house. To avoid this, be sure to provide a good gap between the structure wall and the vapor barrier to ensure sufficient air ventilation.

Foam insulation (polystyrene)

Penoplex is a colleague of polystyrene. It is also a cellular, honeycomb surface filled with polystyrene balls, but exceeds its predecessor in technical characteristics.

Penoplex allows you to easily insulate a wooden house with your own hands. For this, the heat insulator has a lot of prerequisites:

elevated specifications;
good surface strength;
does not rot and does not absorb moisture;
perfectly retains internal heat;
does not respond to changes in external temperatures;
ease of installation;
environmentally friendly material;
does not burn;
enjoy a long service life.

The disadvantages of penoplex are as follows:

The cost of the material exceeds the cost of mineral wool or polystyrene.
The need for high-quality UV protection sun rays. They destroy the structure of the heat insulator.
Sensitive to solvents and similar substances.
Easily damaged by rodents.

As for the insulation process, it is identical to foam.

Note! Required condition foam insulation - the presence of a ventilation space between the vapor barrier and the wooden wall.

Log house insulation technology outside

Now consider how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, in stages:

Prepare the surface of the walls of the house. To do this, clean them of dirt, and treat them well with a special antiseptic solution or primer.
Close gaps, holes and cracks in the wall mounting foam. When the foam dries, cut off the remnants with a sharp knife.
Wet walls are not suitable for insulation. Wait until the surface is completely dry.
To lay the vapor barrier layer, make a crate of wooden slats. The step between the slats should be 1 m. The crate should guarantee the presence of a ventilation space within 20 mm. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of moisture drops on the tree, followed by decay, damage to the wall surface.
Install vapor barrier material. It can be isospan, polyethylene or roofing material. Fix the vapor barrier on the rails, and seal the attachment points with adhesive tape to seal the coating.
Make a frame for the heat insulator, also using wooden planks 40 × 100 mm. A heater will be mounted in its grooves. Therefore, in order to achieve maximum joint density, the distance between the laths should be 15 mm less than the width of the sheet of material used. Wooden planks are installed only on the edge.
Using the building level, monitor the evenness of the crate to avoid the appearance of bumps, gaps and other shortcomings.
Lay the insulation in the resulting grooves, taking into account its individual characteristics.
The next stage of the "pie" is the laying of a layer of hydro-windproof membrane. It must be fastened with nails or a construction stapler to a wooden frame. Again, treat the joints with adhesive tape for tightness.
The final stage - installation decorative finishes on the front of the house. Use siding, lining, brick or other building materials for this purpose.

Each person dreams of a warm house, so that even in the most severe frosts it would be comfortable to be indoors. Therefore, the first question that confronts the owners of their home is how to insulate the walls from the outside on their own. This is especially true for wooden buildings. In this article, we will give instructions according to which the walls of frame and timber houses are thermally insulated from the outside. And for a more visual example, you can watch the video.

There is a huge variety of thermal insulation materials. Let us dwell on the choice of insulation for wooden houses, which are massively used by consumers.

Warming a wooden house will help keep the wood from destruction

Stone wool in slabs. Such material is easy to cut even with a conventional knife. Due to the light weight of the plates, it is easy to transport even in a passenger car, especially if you need to insulate a small area. During installation stone wool they are laid in the gap between the racks of the frame, and then insulated with a vapor barrier material from the inside and waterproofing from the outside.

Attention! During transport or installation, never compress or tamp the mats.

Ecowool. This is an environmentally friendly material for insulation, based on cellulose fibers. Produced in a package, in a slightly compressed form. There are two ways to insulate this material:

dry. To do this, the packaging with glass wool is opened, the material is kneaded and rammed into the walls. The disadvantage of this method is that over time the fibers can shrink, and this will lead to heat loss. However, some manufacturers give a guarantee that this material will not settle for 10-20 years.
wet. Ecowool is sprayed onto the walls and clings to the building frame, so that the material does not settle.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside

Styrofoam. One of the most budgetary types of insulation. This material does not absorb moisture, so it is not necessary to cover it with a moisture-proof membrane. However, when working with foam, you need to show maximum accuracy, because it can crumble and break.

Attention! As a heater, you need to purchase non-pressed foam sheets.

polyurethane foam. It is sold in the form of two-component substances that begin to foam when applied to walls when exposed to air. In operation, such material is similar to mounting foam. They fill the voids in the wall, and cut off the excess. The result is a monolithic layer of insulation, which completely eliminates heat loss. Polyurethane foam has water-repellent properties.

Insulation of a house from a bar with polyurethane foam

Natural heaters. These include slabs of sawdust or a mixture of clay and straw. Such materials are environmentally friendly, inexpensive, but their main disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. Linen fiber is also a natural insulation. It has antiseptic properties, preventing the formation of fungus and mold. It is easy to cut, mount, it does not cause allergies and is moisture resistant.

What is the best way to insulate walls?

Pledge quality repair- Well thought out work plan. Therefore, it is worth considering in advance how you will insulate the walls: from the inside or outside. Internal insulation is rarely used, because. because of it, the size of the rooms is significantly reduced. In addition, experts do not recommend insulating wooden houses in this way, because. moisture will penetrate into the wood, from the side of the street. Because of this, mold and fungus may appear inside the structure, and the tree itself will begin to rot. In addition, it is necessary to buy material that, in its properties, will match the tree. For this, flax fiber is suitable, soft look Fiberboard, basalt and fiberglass materials.

House insulation with mineral wool

With the external method of thermal insulation, a uniform layer of insulator is formed for the free release of vapors. The insulation is less dense than wood, because of this, steam escapes through the ventilation gap. The external method of thermal insulation is an ideal option for those who want to insulate old houses made of timber, which have lost their “presentation” over time, after sheathing they will look like new. However, if the walls are not properly insulated, the wood will begin to deteriorate, and under a layer of exterior finish, you will not be able to control the condition of the wood.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

Thermal insulation of a frame house begins with waterproofing. To do this, you can use glassine - a cheap but effective material. It is cut into strips and fastened with a stapler to the frame of the house, in increments of no more than 12 cm. Sheets of glassine are glued with an overlap of up to 10 cm to protect the insulation from condensation.

Advice! If the frame of the house will be sheathed with siding, then a distance of 30-50 mm should remain between it and the insulated facade so that moisture does not linger in the frame.

Then we lay a layer of insulation. Mineral wool is an excellent option for wall insulation. It does not cause allergic reactions, has low flammability and high thermal conductivity, such plates are easily cut with construction knife. The laying process is simple, first we measure the distances between the racks and add 5 cm on each side for allowances. We cut the sheets of the desired size and lay them on the waterproofing. We close the joints between the frame and the insulation with a strip of mineral wool 3-4 cm wide.

Mineral wool

We lay a layer of vapor barrier on top, for this we use foam phenol. It must be shot to the frame of the building using a construction stapler. Penophenol is laid in a horizontal direction, leaving 5 cm joints with the foil part outward. After that, we sheathe the walls of the house with edged boards or siding.

Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic

In order to fix the foam on the wall, first we install vertical canopies from the cord. Then glue is applied to the foam sheets, along the edges and at five points inside, and fixed on the wall. Thus, the entire insulation is laid. Next, you need to seal the gaps with mounting foam. For additional strength, we fix the sheets with plastic dowels.

Attention! Styrofoam does not absorb moisture, so additional insulation is not needed in this case.

Outside, the walls must be plastered, and before that, a reinforced mesh must be mounted. Putty will help protect the structure from the influence of external factors, but it should be applied in two layers. After the surface has dried, a top coat can be applied. decorative plaster.

Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic

Insulation of the walls of the house from a bar

External insulation of houses from a bar needs to be done board materials, they are more rigid and do not shrink over time. If you prefer basalt or fiberglass insulation, then you need to choose the right thickness. If the house is made of 15 cm timber, then the thickness of the heat insulator is 10 cm, and if the timber is 20 cm, then you can take a thinner material - 5 cm.

To begin with, the surface of the house is coated with waterproof mastic. Then a vertical wooden frame is installed, which must be smeared with an antiseptic to prevent decay. Then basalt wool is attached to it with the help of self-tapping screws or dowels-umbrellas, for 1 sq.m of insulation - 4-6 fasteners. A diffusion membrane is laid on top as a waterproofing agent. We nail slats on top of the wooden frame, 5 cm thick, which will create a ventilation gap to remove moisture. Then we nail the profiles to the rails and install the siding, starting from the bottom, checking the horizontal laying with a level.

Scheme: home insulation

Thus, the choice of insulation depends on your personal preferences. And to decide whether to do internal or external thermal insulation depends on how it will be done. finishing external walls. Well, if you want even the most severe frosts not to bring you inconvenience, you can insulate the walls both inside and outside.

Warming the house with mineral wool: video

Wooden buildings retain heat much better than concrete or brick ones. But they also need extra insulation. Everyone knows that wooden buildings give over time shrinkage. At the corners and at the seams of houses, cracks and crevices form, through which cold from the street enters the house.

To prevent all this, it is necessary to insulate the outside, how and with what to do it - read below. It is also worth noting that proper thermal insulation will help home owners save on heating. But in order to maintain the desired microclimate indoors and extend the life of the tree, it is necessary to choose the right materials for insulation.

Choosing wall insulation, keep in mind that any tree absorbs moisture well. Therefore, it must be processed impregnations. In order for the room to have a favorable microclimate, it is necessary to take care of good ventilation in the room.

If the air exchange in the room is disturbed, then this will lead to the swelling of the tree and the formation of fungi and mold on it. To prevent the above problems, you must:

Insulate only dry walls.
Choose vapor-permeable thermal insulation materials.
Make and waterproof walls.
Leave an air gap between the insulation and the finish.

Before you start warming, prepare well all work surfaces. They should be free of mold and dirt. If they need repair, do it in advance. And check that there are no harmful insects on the tree.

Attention: if you plan to paint wood in the future, then the sealant and paint must be vapor-permeable.

Also, before warming the house, you must carefully read wall composition.

Keep in mind that the technology of warming a house made of wood provides for the presence of:

vapor barrier;
insulation;
waterproofing;
exterior cladding (read:).

It is hydro and vapor barrier that will protect the tree from excess moisture.

How to insulate a wooden house?

An unusually large range of heaters is provided on the modern construction market. But keep in mind, not all of them are vapor permeable. As a rule, for wooden buildings use:

extruded ;
polyurethane foam.

You can choose what kind of insulation it is better to insulate a wooden house from the outside by reading the characteristics of each of them below.

How to properly insulate with mineral wool

Mineral wool is an excellent choice. If you opted for this material, then you will not need special skills and abilities to apply. Since the whole workflow will be quite easy and simple.

To perform quality work, you only need to stock up on free time, necessary tools And consumable. Before work, carefully prepare the surface and properly calculate the right amount consumable.

note

Wooden houses are subject to shrinkage. Therefore, they need to be insulated only a few years after the construction.

Considering specifications mineral wool is worth highlighting:

incombustibility of the material;
no deformation;
ease of installation;
harmlessness and environmental friendliness;
affordable cost;
long service life.

If you have chosen mineral wool to insulate your home, please note that this material:

requires additional protective equipment during work (respirator, gloves, glasses);
absorbs moisture, so you must first make high-quality hydro and vapor barrier;
will not protect the tree from the formation of mold and fungi. Therefore, the walls will have to be additionally treated with special antiseptics.

When choosing mineral wool, you need to consider that it happens:

Basalt.
Glass.
Slag.

Each individual option has its own characteristics. Basalt cotton has a high degree of rigidity. This material is available in slabs, it is easy to cut with any tools and it is a pleasure to work with it.

Concerning glass cotton wool, it is produced in rolls. It is not always convenient to work with it, as glass fibers strongly irritate the skin.

slag cotton wool is the most inexpensive. If you choose this particular material, carefully consider the choice of the manufacturer. Since unscrupulous companies can use raw materials harmful to people in the manufacture of their products.

The benefits of foam

You can also insulate your home with foam. This material also has a lot of advantages. The main ones include:

ease and simplicity in work;
light weight of the material;
excellent heat and sound insulation qualities;
resistance to negative factors;
long service life.

On the surface of the foam will not form no mold or fungus. It is fireproof, harmless and perfectly copes with sudden changes in temperature and high humidity.

Important: this material is laid butt to butt. Make sure your home is well ventilated to prevent mold from growing on the walls.

Extruded polystyrene foam and its positive qualities

Expanded polystyrene is also in great demand and popular for home insulation. This material is:

durable and reliable;
durable;
easy to work;
environmentally friendly;
affordable in terms of price.

Continuing to list the positive aspects of extruded polystyrene foam, it is worth highlighting such technical qualities as: resistance to burning, excellent heat and sound insulation qualities, high specifications. Expanded polystyrene is also resistant to mechanical damage and heavy loads.

note

Expanded polystyrene must be protected from ultraviolet rays. It can also be damaged by rodents.

But the main hallmark material is his moisture resistance. Thanks to this, when warming, you can not even do steam and waterproofing.

How to insulate with polyurethane foam?

Polyurethane foam also has a wide range of applications in the external insulation of buildings. This material has benefits, How:

low thermal conductivity;
light weight;
high thermal insulation qualities;
resistance to mechanical deformations and heavy loads;
resistance to the appearance of fungi and mold;
durability;
environmental friendliness.

This material is completely non-toxic and does not harm human health in any way. It does not burn under any circumstances and is universal. It is used not only for wall insulation, but also for attics and other similar premises.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

For effective insulation wooden house must be correctly calculated heat insulator thickness.

Otherwise, an incorrectly selected thickness of the material will lead to condensation and dampness appearing on the walls of the building.

And too large a heat insulator will lead to a violation of the air circulation inside the room. Each manufacturer specifies necessary information for the consumer on their packaging.

note: the lower the thermal resistance of the wall, the larger the layer of heat insulator should be.

The main ways to insulate a wooden house from the outside

Technology Well

This technology can be called the most effective, but rather labor intensive and costly. It is most often used for brick buildings. This method consists in the fact that the heat insulator is attached to the facade by any convenient way, and a wall is attached to it.

This technique is used in places with severe climatic conditions where the air temperature drops below 50 degrees. Recently, this method has been used quite rarely, but it can also be used to insulate a wooden house.

Wet adhesive technology

This technology is most suitable for houses built from round logs and timber. For this, it is necessary to use external plaster in several layers.

This method is carried out in sequences:

We carry out preparatory work.
We fix the heater.
We apply an adhesive mixture to the heat insulator and fasten the reinforcing mesh.
We plaster the surface several times.
We apply the finishing decorative layer.

TO benefits such a method is worth mentioning.

Properly executed insulation of a wooden house can significantly save on heating, improve the microclimate in the house, and also extend the life of the log house. When the question arises about the thermal insulation of the walls of a wooden house, the first and most important point is the choice of the method of insulation - from the inside or outside. Most home owners choose external insulation, and this choice is absolutely right - the external insulation of a wooden house is more effective.

At internal insulation not only the useful area of the premises decreases, but also the dew point shifts inside the log house. Only the inner space is insulated, while the log house itself constantly experiences changes in humidity and temperature, freezes in winter, and rots in summer. The greatest destruction of the log house in this case occurs from the inside, closed by a heater.

External insulation protects not only the room from freezing, but also the log house itself. The dew point shifts to the outside, and condensation occurs outside wooden structures, under a ventilated facade, where moisture dries quickly.

Materials for warming a wooden house

As a heater for wooden houses, mats made of stone or mineral wool are most in demand. It is not recommended to use foam plastic for warming wooden structures, since it does not have vapor permeability and does not remove moisture vapor from the surface of the log house. Mats made of stone or mineral wool are different thickness and density. The denser the insulation, the easier it is to install and the longer it retains its performance characteristics. Soft and loose mats often slide down, disintegrate, forming dust that is harmful to health. Therefore, you should not save on high-quality insulation. Other advantages of stone or mineral wool include its incombustibility and unpopularity with rodents, unlike polystyrene.

In addition to insulation, two layers of film are needed: one is waterproofing and protects the log house from moisture penetration. It is placed on a protected wooden surface. This film must have vapor permeability and remove moisture from the log house through the insulation to the external environment. The second is wind and water protection, it is mounted on top of thermal insulation. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture coming from external environment. Waterproofing mineral insulation is required, since when wetted, it loses its heat-insulating properties.

From the outside, the insulation is closed with any facing material with the obligatory arrangement of the ventilation gap. Such a cladding is called a ventilated facade. Thanks to the air circulation between the cladding and the walls, the formation of fungus and mold is excluded, moisture is successfully removed from the insulation and all conditions are created for the long service life of the log house and the entire building.

The technology of warming a wooden house from the outside

The walls of a log or squared house are treated with an antiseptic in two layers, paying special attention to the lower crown and corners. The ends of the logs are impregnated with an antiseptic especially carefully, since they are most susceptible to decay. Processing is best done in warm, dry weather. After treatment, the walls are dried for 1-2 days.
The walls are fixed with staples and a waterproofing film with a vapor-permeable coating. This film has different coverage sides: glossy should be facing the insulation, and porous, capable of absorbing and removing moisture from the log house - to the wall. The joints of the film are overlapped and glued with special mounting tape. A vertical crate made of a bar is attached to the film, the thickness of the bar should correspond to the thickness of the insulation. The step of the crate is chosen 3-5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Laid by surprise, they will hold perfectly without additional fastening.
Heat-insulating mats are laid on the film between the bars, slightly pressing them. If necessary, mats are cut with an ordinary knife. If the mats are not hard enough and do not hold well inside the frame, you can perform a temporary filing by fixing them with slats. The mats are finally fixed with anchor nails. If it is necessary to lay several layers of thermal insulation, the next layer of mats is laid with offset seams so that the upper mats overlap the joints of the lower ones. All work on laying mineral wool mats must be carried out with protective gloves and a respirator.
On top of the insulation, a hydro-wind-protective membrane film is attached to the staples. The waterproofing surface must face the outside. The joints are overlapped and glued with adhesive tape.
Installing a hydro-windproof membrane film over the insulation using a stapler
A ventilated frame is required on top of the film. It is also made of bars, providing a distance of at least 5 cm between the layer of insulation covered with wind protection and the decorative facade. The bars are attached to the lower frame with self-tapping screws, and if the walls are not even enough, then use perforated hangers for the profile, allowing you to adjust the distance to the frame. Under sheathing with metal siding or corrugated board, you can use a drywall profile instead of a bar.
The casing is fixed according to the technology recommended by the manufacturer. For cladding, you can use vinyl siding, metal profiles, block house or imitation timber. When sheathing, make sure that there are no cracks through which moisture can penetrate into the facade.

An additional measure to protect a wooden house is the insulation of the foundation and basement. It can be produced using or, as well as by spraying polyurethane foam. A ventilated facade or cladding is also mounted on top of the insulation layer. decorative stone or brick.