Soft tiles: installation technology. Do-it-yourself installation of flexible tiles: step-by-step instructions for carrying out work How to lay soft tiles

It is unlikely that there will be such an owner who refuses to have the roof of his house covered with reliable, but at the same time affordable roofing material. And if you plan your own installation correctly, then the structure will not only be well protected from possible damage and bad weather, but will also significantly save a significant amount of money.

Similar qualities are possessed by an innovative material, which is a flexible tile with a bituminous base (it is also called roofing tiles). Of course, such a roof cannot be called the easiest for self-manufacturing. However, it is not the most difficult either. One has only to understand the technological intricacies of installation, and the high-quality performance of such work will be quite real.

innovative material

The flexible tile represents the small sizes flat sheets. This one has one curly edge. Its basis, as a rule, is fiberglass or fiberglass. However, there are types that are made on organic cellulose, that is, felt. The basis of such a roofing material is coated on both sides with an impregnating composition, the main component of which is bitumen.

The front part of the flexible tile is sprinkled with a basalt granulator painted in a certain color. Sometimes mineral chips act as a dye. This or that color is given to the tiles special technologies thanks to which it has been preserved for many decades. The powder present on the roofing tile makes it more beautiful view, and also protects the surface from various atmospheric phenomena, increases its wear resistance and neutralizes the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation.

Sometimes it happens that in some places the dressing simply disappears. Such a defect occurs only with materials from the economy segment, moreover, it is easy to eliminate it with glue and mineral chips of the appropriate color.

Positive characteristics and disadvantages

Flexible tiles can be laid on single and multi-pitched roofs. Due to the fact that this material has small size and has plasticity, it is simply indispensable for the arrangement of roofs of complex shapes (multi-pitched, domed, round). In addition, this coating looks great on the buildings of the most various styles architecture.

Among positive qualities flexible tiles can be distinguished:

durability (about 30 years);
a significant operating temperature range, which allows the use of such material in both southern and northern countries;
resistance to ultraviolet radiation;
undemanding to special care;
ease of installation, which allows you not to involve specialists;
light weight, which can easily withstand the rafters of a small section;
a small amount of waste remaining after installation;
high degree of maintainability;
good adaptability to the change in the geometry of the building that occurs during its shrinkage;
the ability to withstand strong gusts of wind (with additional reinforcement by 6 nails);
good heat-saving and soundproofing properties;
resistance to acids, as well as to the negative effects of lichens, mosses and fungi.

Among the shortcomings are:

high price;
greater consumption of materials required for arranging the crate.

How to get started with roofing?

Soft material for roofs is used for slopes with a slope above 12 percent. If the roof is flatter, then there is a high probability of leakage at the joints. How to lay flexible tiles in this case, if there is a desire to use it?

With small slopes of the roof, it is necessary to spread a continuous special lining carpet on the crate, which helps protect the top layer from moisture.

IN last years soft material gained great popularity. However, not all developers know how to lay shingles. The instruction for its installation explains that such material should be placed on the crate, which differs from the usual one arranged for metal tiles or ondulin.

A kind of foundation designed for flexible tiles is Mauerlat. The truss system is based on it.

How to lay flexible tiles? It should be borne in mind that these do not like bumps, height differences, unnecessary bends and protruding nails. In this regard, the Mauerlat bars must be laid strictly horizontally. At the same time, for the lines that connect the ends of the Mauerlats at the ends of the building, an angle of 90 degrees must be observed.

How to lay flexible tiles? For it, it is necessary to prepare either a solid base, or knock down a crate with gaps of no more than 0.5 cm. This is where the difference between this system and any similar one ends. Otherwise, an exemplary roofing pie made of flexible tiles consists of a vapor barrier film laid on the rafters, on top of which a heater follows. Next, a waterproofing film, OSB board and underlayment are placed on the roof. The whole structure is completed with a soft roofing material.

How to lay flexible tiles on an iron roof? To do this, you need to level its surface. Of course, flexible tiles can be laid on top of existing material, but in this case, its crests will be visible visually, and the presence of air gaps near them will reduce the life of soft tiles. Using the option of leveling the surface, a crate of laths or OSB sheets is laid on top of the iron.

grounds under roofing material may be different. Let's consider them in more detail.

Solid crate

This is the first version of the base, which is made of grooved or edged boards, fastened end-to-end or with small gaps. It is desirable that whole boards be laid without splicing. If such an arrangement is not possible, the joints should be located above the rafters with careful fixing of the edges. When solving the question “How to lay flexible tiles?”, height differences should not be allowed. Otherwise, the tiles laid on such boards will accumulate water, and therefore there will be a high probability of its leakage.

Arrangement of plate material

The base for flexible tiles can be done differently. In this case, on the crate, made of unedged or edged boards, must be laid board material. It can be moisture resistant OSB, DSP, GVL boards or plywood. The thickness of such sheets should not be less than 9 mm.

How to lay shingles on OSB and other boards? According to the instructions, such a substrate must be fastened so that the seams located in one row must be overlapped by another. In order to compensate for expansion during temperature fluctuations, a small gap (from 3 to 5 mm) can be left between adjacent sheets.

Features of mounting the crate

How to lay flexible tiles? Due to the fact that the material is not affected by mold and fungi, it does not deteriorate or rot. However, it is laid on wood, which is damaged by high humidity. What needs to be done in this regard? All wooden structures should be treated with antiseptic impregnations. However, this is not all.

In order for wood to serve for many years, it must be subjected to natural ventilation. For this, gaps of 5 mm must be left between the waterproofing layer and the base under the roof slabs. Sometimes for this they arrange a counter-lattice, to which the base is attached. In addition, special ventilation holes are made around the perimeter of the roof, placing them in overhangs. To prevent birds and insects from entering such holes, they are covered with nets.

Features of work at different times of the year

How to lay flexible tiles? It must be installed on a clean, dry and level surface. In this case, the work is carried out in several stages. It is desirable to start them in the warm season, when the air temperature is more than five degrees above zero. This will allow the coating to become airtight, which will create certain conveniences in work. It is desirable to comply with such a condition because when it hits the material sun rays bitumen is heated. This process allows it to fuse with the plates into a single whole. Only in this case, the coating, which consists of individual sheets, turns into a monolith.

How to lay shingles in winter? If it is necessary to carry out work in the cold season, it will be necessary to use infrared heaters or heat guns. Only in this case it will be possible to heat up the material so that the installation conditions are close to summer ones. But you should not lay flexible tiles in severe frosts, even if heaters are at hand. In order to avoid downtime in work, you can do the installation of building structures of the roof, the installation and installation of thermal insulation.

Additional waterproofing

This is the first stage of installation of flexible tiles. A layer of additional waterproofing is laid in valleys, along overhangs, as well as in places adjacent to the building, on ridges and dormer windows. Such a layer will serve as additional insurance against leaks in places where the greatest accumulation of water will be observed.

Fasten the waterproofing carpet with roofing nails in increments of 40 cm. Along the lower edge, this distance should be more frequent (10 cm). The second layer must be laid on top of the first layer. In places where there is an abutment with a wall or pipe, the material should go on them by 5-10 cm.

This task is not faced by those who solve the question "How to put flexible tiles on the gazebo with your own hands?". After all, the pipe in this case simply will not be.

and end strips

This is the second stage of the ongoing work on laying shingles. It is necessary to protect the ends and cornices from water leakage. To preserve the material of the roof, it is necessary to fill the cornice strips along the entire roof overhang. They are fastened with nails, which are hammered every 10 cm. Moreover, one of them should be located at the bottom of the plank, and the second - along its top, and so on. Neighboring planks are stacked with an overlap of 5 cm.

The end strips are arranged according to the same scheme and with the same interval. Their installation begins at the bottom of the roof with a gradual movement towards the ridge.

Laying the valley carpet

In places where roof slopes are joined (in valleys), a special protective carpet should be placed. It has a greater thickness than a waterproofing coating, due to the required protection of the slopes, where significant water flows pass. The valley carpet should be rolled out from top to bottom and nailed every 10 cm. Such a coating is also important when the question “How to put flexible tiles on the roof of an octagonal arbor or any other with a multi-pitched roof?” Is solved.

Fixing the eaves

Consider the fourth stage of laying shingles. This material is similar to the main one, but does not have a curly lower part. The cornice strip is the starting one and is designed to form an even lower edge along the entire perimeter of the overhang. The work of this stage should not be missed by those owners who decide the question “How to lay flexible tiles on the gazebo?”.

There is a protective film on the wrong side of the strip. It must be removed and this element placed, stepping back from the bend of the cornice strip 1-2 cm. After laying, the strip must be pressed. Then it is nailed in places of perforation and along the edges.

Installation of tiles

This is the fifth stage of the roofing work. Pre-prepared packages with tiles should be under a canopy or indoors. During installation, they are transferred to the building under construction. It should be borne in mind that the material in different packs, as a rule, is slightly different in color. In this regard, it is recommended to open 4-6 packages at the same time. You need to take sheets from them alternately. In this case, the roof will turn out to be more voluminous, and the strips different shades will not be particularly visible. This condition must also be met in the case when the question “How to put flexible tiles on a hip roof?” Is being solved.

Laying the material starts from the center, gradually moving to the ends. The lower edge of the first row of tiles is placed on the same level with the cornice strip. The upper edge of the flexible tile should cover such a strip for several centimeters.

Skate

This is the final stage of installation of flexible tiles. The ridge is closed after all the slopes are completely covered with roofing material.

At this stage, either a special tile is used, or an ordinary tile is cut into separate fragments. The second option is cheaper, because the price of a special ridge tile is twice as high as the usual one.

The roof made of bituminous soft tiles is easy to use, durable and aesthetic. Its big plus is that it is quite possible self-assembly. The technology is not the most complicated, the weight of the fragment is small, it is attached to the adhesive base, additionally fixed with roofing nails. So the installation of soft tiles with your own hands can be done even alone.

Roofing cake for soft tiles

The attic under the roof can be warm or cold, depending on this, the composition of the roofing cake changes. But its part from the rafters and above always remains unchanged:

waterproofing is stuffed on the rafters;
on it - bars with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
solid flooring.

Here we will consider these materials in more detail - from what and how to make, what features each of them has.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing membranes are available in one, two or three layers. Single-layer membranes - the simplest and cheapest, perform only a dual task - do not allow moisture to pass towards the room and release vapors to the outside. So in a simple way not only is the attic protected from the penetration of condensate or suddenly leaked precipitation, but also excess moisture that accompanies human life is removed from the air. Single-layer membranes are poorly represented on the market. Practically they are produced by one company - Tyvek.

Two and three-layer membranes are more durable. They, in addition to the waterproofing layer, also have a layer that gives greater tensile strength. The third layer, if any, is the absorbent layer. That is, even if a drop of condensate has formed on the surface of the membrane, this layer absorbs it into itself, preventing it from spilling onto other materials. With sufficient ventilation, moisture from this layer gradually evaporates and is carried away by air currents.

Three-layer membranes (for example, EUROTOP N35, RANKKA, YUTAKON) are desirable if your attic is insulated and used as a heater mineral wool. It is afraid of getting wet and with an increase in humidity by 10% loses half of its thermal insulation properties.

If under soft tiles there will be cold attic, it is desirable to use a two-layer waterproofing membrane. In terms of strength, it is much better than single-layer ones, and at a price it is only a little more expensive.

crate

On top of the waterproofing film, parallel to the overhang, the lathing strips are stuffed. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap. It will help maintain the normal humidity of roofing materials.

The crate is made of coniferous boards (mainly pine). The thickness of the boards is at least 30 mm. This is the minimum gap that will ensure the normal movement of air in the under-roof space. Before laying, the wood must be treated with an impregnation that protects against pests and fungi; after drying this layer, it is also treated with flame retardants, which reduce the combustibility of wood.

The minimum length of the board for the crate is at least two spans of rafters. They are attached and connected above the rafter legs. You can't connect them anywhere else.

Flooring

The flooring under soft tiles is made solid. Materials are selected based on the fact that nails must be driven into it, therefore they are usually used:

OSB 3;
moisture resistant plywood;
tongue-and-groove or edged board of the same thickness (25 mm) with a moisture content of not more than 20%.

When laying flooring under soft tiles, it is necessary to leave gaps between the elements to compensate for thermal expansion. When using plywood or OSB, the gap is 3 mm, between edged boards 1-5 mm. sheet material fasten with a run-out of seams, that is, so that the joints are not continuous. Fasten the OSB with self-tapping screws or ruffed nails.

Using boards as flooring, it is necessary to ensure that the annual rings of the wood are directed downwards. With the reverse arrangement, they will be arched, soft tiles will be lifted, the tightness of the coating may be broken. There is another trick that will allow you to save wood flooring smooth even if the moisture content of the boards is above 20%. When laying the ends of the boards, they are additionally fastened with two nails or self-tapping screws hammered close to the edge. This additional fastener will prevent the boards from bending during shrinkage.

The choice of the thickness of the material for flooring under soft tiles depends on the pitch of the crate. The larger the pitch, the thicker the flooring required. The best option- frequent step and thin plates. In this case, a light but rigid base is obtained.

Another point concerns the installation of flooring for soft tiles around the chimney pipe. With a brick pipe, the width of which is more than 50 cm, a groove is made behind it (pictured). This design, reminiscent of a mini-roof. It separates the rain streams, they roll down the sides of the pipe without flowing into the under-roof space.

After installing the flooring, its geometry is checked. The length is measured, the width of the slope at the top and bottom, the height of the slope on both sides, the diagonals are measured. And the last check - tracking the plane - the entire slope must lie entirely in the same plane.

Soft tile roofing technology

When buying, you will most likely be provided with instructions, to which the installation of soft tiles will be described step by step and in detail, indicating all the exact dimensions that this particular manufacturer requires. These recommendations should be followed. However, it is worth getting acquainted with the order of work and their volumes ahead of time - in order to understand the intricacies of installation and the required amount of materials.

We must say right away that it is necessary to handle soft tiles when laying carefully - she does not like it if she is bent. Therefore, try not to bend or crush the shingles unnecessarily (this is one fragment consisting of a visible and mounting part).

Overhang reinforcement

The drip bar is installed first. This is an L-shaped sheet of metal coated with paint or polymer composition. Polymer coating is more expensive, but also more reliable. The color is selected close to the color of bituminous tiles.

Drip bar installed along the roof overhangs

The task of the drip bar is to protect the crate, sections of rafters and flooring from moisture. With one edge, the dropper is laid on the flooring, with the second it closes the overhang. It is fastened with galvanized (stainless steel) nails, which are hammered in a checkerboard pattern (one is closer to the fold, the second is almost at the edge). Fastener installation step - 20-25 cm.

The drip bar is sold in two-meter pieces. Having laid the first element, the second is fixed with an overlap of at least 3 cm. If desired, the gap can be closed: grease the joint bituminous mastic, fill with sealant. At the same stage, it is mounted, in any case, hooks are nailed that will hold the gutters.

Laying waterproofing carpet

Regardless of the angle of the roof, a waterproofing lining must be laid in and along the slope. It is sold in meter wide rolls. An adhesive is applied to the underside, covered with a protective film or paper. Before laying, the paper is removed, the valley carpet is glued to the flooring.

Installation of a waterproofing carpet begins with laying it in the valley. Roll out the material of a meter width, distributing 50 cm on both sides of the bend. Here it is desirable to do without joints, but, if necessary, the overlap of two canvases should be at least 15 cm. Laying goes from bottom to top, the junction is additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the material is well pressed.

Next, a waterproofing carpet for flexible tiles is laid along the cornice overhang. The minimum width of the carpet on the cornice overhang is the size of the overhang itself, plus 60 cm. First, the carpet is rolled out, if necessary, cut, then the protective film is removed from the inside and glued to the substrate. Additionally, they are fixed along the edges with stainless steel or galvanized nails with a large flat hat (step 20-25 cm).

In places of a horizontal joint, the overlap of two canvases is at least 10 cm, in the vertical direction - at least 15 cm. All joints are additionally coated with bituminous mastic, the material is compressed.

Lining carpet

The lining carpet, as well as the waterproofing carpet, is sold in rolls of meter width, the back side is covered with an adhesive. The laying method depends on the slope of the roof and on the profile of the selected shingles.

When using shingles with cuts (such as Jazz, Trio, Beaver tail), regardless of the slope, the lining carpet is spread over the entire surface of the roof.

Underlayment installation often requires undercutting. This is done with a sharp knife. In order not to damage the material below when cutting, enclose a piece of plywood or OSB.

Fronton (end) plank

Gable strips are mounted on the side sections of the overhangs. These are strips of metal bent in the form of the letter "G", along the fold line of which there is a small protrusion. They cover the laid roofing materials from wind loads, from moisture ingress. The gable plank is laid on the flooring over the lining or waterproofing carpet, fixed with nails (stainless steel or galvanized) in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15 cm.

These planks also come in pieces of 2 m, stacked with an overlap of at least 3 cm.

Slope marking

To make the installation of soft tiles simple, markings in the form of a grid are applied to the lining carpet or flooring. Do this with a painter's cord. The lines along the cornice overhang are applied at a distance equal to 5 rows of tiles, in the vertical - every meter (the length of one flexible tile shingle). This marking makes laying easier - the edges are leveled along it, it is easier to track distances.

Valley carpet

On top of the already laid waterproofing carpet, another valley material is laid. It is slightly wider, serves as an additional guarantee of no leaks. Without removing the protective film from the underside, it is laid, cut at the bottom in the overhang area, and the boundaries are marked. Deviating from the mark of 4-5 cm, a special mastic of increased fixation Fixer is applied. It is applied from a syringe, with a roller, then rubbed with a spatula into a strip about 10 cm wide.

A valley carpet is laid out on the mastic, the folds are smoothed out, the edges are pressed. Stepping back from the edge by 3 cm, it is fixed with nails in increments of 20 cm.

Connection to a brick pipe

To bypass pipes and ventilation outlets, patterns are made from a valley carpet or galvanized metal, painted in the appropriate color. The surface of the pipe is plastered, treated with a primer.

When using a valley carpet, a pattern is made so that the material enters the pipe by at least 30 cm, and at least 20 cm should remain on the roof.

The pattern is smeared with bitumen mastic, placed in place. the front part is installed first, then the right and left.

Part of the side elements is wrapped on the front part. The back wall is installed last. Its parts go to the side.

At correct installation on the flooring around the pipe, a platform is obtained, completely covered with a valley carpet. Before laying tiles in this place, the surface is smeared with bituminous mastic.

The tile from three sides enters the laid carpet, not reaching the walls of the pipe 8 cm.

The upper part of the junction is sealed with a metal strip, which is attached to the dowels.

All gaps are filled with heat-resistant sealant.

Conclusion of round pipes

For a pass ventilation pipes There are special pass-through devices. They are positioned so that the lower edge of the element extends over the tile by at least 2 cm.

Having attached the passage element to the roof, its inner hole is circled. According to the applied contour, a hole is cut in the substrate, into which a round pipe is led out.

The back of the skirt of the passage element is smeared with bituminous mastic, set to the desired position, and additionally fastened around the perimeter with nails. When installing soft tiles, the penetration skirt is smeared with mastic.

The shingle is cut as close as possible to the ledge of the penetration, the gap is then filled with mastic, which is covered with a special UV-protective dressing.

starting strip

The installation of soft tiles begins with the laying of the starting strip. Usually it is a ridge-cornice tile or an ordinary one with cut petals. The first element is laid on one of the edges of the slope, going to the edge of the gable plank. The lower edge of the starting strip is laid on the drip, stepping back from its fold 1.5 cm.

Before installation, the protective film is removed from the back, the shingle is leveled and laid. Each section of bituminous tiles is fastened with four nails - at the corners of each fragment, stepping back from the edge or perforation line 2-3 cm.

If a cut from an ordinary tile is used as a starting strip, in some part of it there will be no adhesive composition. In these places, the substrate is smeared with bituminous mastic.

Installation of soft ordinary tiles

There is a flexible tile with an applied adhesive mass, protected by a film, and there is a composition that does not require a protective film, although it also fixes the elements well on the roof. When using the material of the first type, the film is removed immediately before installation.

Before laying bituminous tiles on the roof, several packs are opened - 5-6 pieces. Laying is carried out from all packs at the same time, taking one shingle from each one in turn. Otherwise, there will be pronounced spots on the roof that differ in color.

The first shingle is laid so that its edge does not reach the edge of the starting strip by 1 cm. In addition to the adhesive composition, the tiles are also fixed with roofing nails. The number of fasteners depends on the slope angle:

When installing soft tiles, it is important to drive in nails correctly. Hats should be pressed against the shingle, but not break through its surface.

Valley design

With the help of a paint cord in the valley, an area is marked in which nails cannot be driven in - this is 30 cm from the middle of the valley. Then mark the boundaries of the gutter. They can be from 5 to 15 cm in both directions.

The upper corner, which is turned towards the valley, is cut

When laying ordinary shingles, nails are driven in as close as possible to the line beyond which nails cannot be hammered, and shingles are trimmed to the floor of the gutter laying line. To prevent water from flowing under the material, the upper corner of the tile is cut obliquely, cutting off about 4-5 cm. The loose edge of the tile is smeared with bituminous mastic and fixed with nails.

Decoration of the pediment

On the sides of the slope, the tiles are cut so that 1 cm remains to the edge (protrusion) of the end plank. The upper corner of the shingle is cut in the same way as in the valley - a piece of 4-5 cm obliquely. The edge of the tile is smeared with mastic. A strip of mastic - at least 10 cm. Then it is fixed with nails, like the rest of the elements.

If the flooring in the area of the ridge is made solid, a hole is cut along the ridge, which should not reach the end of the rib 30 cm.

It is fixed with long roofing nails. On a long skate, several elements can be used, they are joined end-to-end. The installed metal ridge is covered with ridge tiles. A protective film is removed from it, then the fragment is fixed with four nails (two on each side). The installation of soft tiles on the ridge goes towards the prevailing winds, one fragment overlaps the other by 3-5 cm.

The ridge tile is a ridge-eaves divided into three parts. A perforation is applied on it, a fragment comes off along it (first bend, press the fold, then tear off).

The same elements can be cut from an ordinary tile. It is divided into three parts, not paying attention to the drawing. At the resulting tiles, a corner is cut off - about 2-3 cm on each side. The middle of the fragment is heated with a building hair dryer on both sides, placed in the middle on a bar and, gently pressing, bend over.

Ribs and kinks

The ribs are covered with ridge tiles. A line is beaten off along the bend at the required distance with a masking cord. The edge of the tile is aligned along it. Laying of flexible tiles on the edge goes from bottom to top, each fragment is glued, then stepping back from the top edge of 2 cm, fixed with nails - two on each side. The next fragment comes to the laid 3-5 cm.

A reliable, inexpensive and easy-to-install roof is one of the most cherished wishes of the developer. Simplicity, the possibility of arranging with your own hands without the help of third parties - laying soft tiles differs in all parameters. Affordable technology, democratic cost of the material, no need for special skills and tools make laying out easier. And we will tell you how to install soft tiles with your own hands.

A preliminary calculation of the material, additional elements, fasteners is the key to a high-quality arrangement of the roofing carpet. Approximate costs are:

The number of shingles in a box can be different: from 1.5 to 3 m2. It all depends on the size of the elements (including overlap). All parameters are indicated on the box, the material should be bought with a margin of 5-7%.
Mastic in quantity: 200 g/m2 for valley carpet, 100 g/m2 for ends, 750 g/m2 for junctions, knots.
Nails 30 mm long, galvanized with 3 mm shank and 9 mm head, 80 g/m2.

All calculations are averaged standard. You will also need tools:

Knife for trimming bituminous shingles, substrates;
Scissors for metal (or others) for trimming planks;
Hammer for fasteners;
Brush for bituminous mastic.

Advice! If the laying of flexible tiles with your own hands is done in the cold season, a burner will come in handy for heating the bitumen layer. Despite the possibility of carrying out work up to -5 ..-7 degrees, it is better to equip the roofing carpet in warm, dry, not the hottest and calm weather. In the cold, the flexibility of shingles decreases, the risk of cracking increases, in extreme heat, bituminous materials heat up excessively and melt.

Roofing cake for shingles

With the arrangement of a roofing pie for soft tiles, a large stage of work begins. Depending on the purpose, the attic can be warm or cold. The purpose of the under-roof space affects the arrangement of the roofing pie, however, the part above the rafters is always the same:

a layer of waterproofing material;
bars with a thickness of 30 mm;
crate in the form of a continuous flooring.

Important! Additional elements: junction slats, cornice overhangs, pediment slats are made of special steel.

Laying out waterproofing

Membrane materials can be one-, two-, three-layer.

Single layer waterproofing- an affordable and cheap option that performs the task of preventing humidity from entering the room and not preventing fumes from escaping to the outside.
Two-, three-layer materials- more durable and practical. They have an absorbent layer that absorbs condensate, as well as a layer of reinforcing material, which gives greater tensile strength.

Advice! Three-layer waterproofing membranes are shown in the case of mineral wool insulation. The material is afraid of getting wet and with an increase in humidity, even by 10%, it loses 56-60% of its quality characteristics. In the case of arranging a cold attic, it is better to use a two-layer membrane sheet: the price is slightly more expensive than a single-layer one, but the strength is much higher.

Advice! If the slope angle is more than 18 °, waterproofing membranes should be placed parallel to the end and cornice planes. The junction points have an increased risk of leaks, therefore the layout is carried out with an overlap. The same is true for the skate area. If necessary, the ridge area is covered with another lining carpet. Work is carried out from the bottom up, fastening is carried out with nails with an increased cap size. Mounting step 20 cm.

Ventilation

Roof ventilation made of soft tiles is usually arranged by means of a ridge. It is laid out on a ribbed profile. In case of insufficiency of this method, ventilation elements are laid on the roof surface. This is the name of profiles with ribs located at a distance of 20 mm from each other. Structures are attached to the base with nails.

Sheathing and flooring

Immediately after laying the waterproofing, the lathing strips are stuffed on top. Thick timber elements create the necessary ventilation gap. The crate is made from a bar of coniferous wood. The thickness of the elements is at least 30 mm; before installation, the wood is treated with impregnations against decay and fire.

Important! The length of the boards for the crate is a distance equal to two spans of rafters. Fastening is carried out above the rafter legs.

Do-it-yourself installation of flexible tiles is carried out on a solid flooring. It is made from OSB3, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood, tongue-and-groove or edged boards 25 mm thick, with a moisture content of not more than 20%.

Important! The layout of solid elements is carried out with gaps - compensators for thermal expansion of the material. For plywood or OSB, the gap width is 3 mm, for boards 1-5 mm. Sheet dies are fastened in the way of running up the seams so that the joints are not continuous. Mounting on self-tapping screws or ruffed nails.

Arrangement of flooring next to chimneys with a width of more than 0.5 m often requires the construction of a mini-roof. After installing the flooring, it is necessary to check the evenness of the coating plane, dimensional parameters - the slope must be perfectly aligned.

Laying shingles

When purchasing a product, you should carefully review the instructions from the manufacturer. It necessarily indicates how to lay flexible tiles. Often enough to follow step by step instructions to execute roofing correctly, however, preliminary familiarization with the procedure helps to allocate time.

Advice! Installation of bituminous tiles requires caution: no kinks, no creases. Unnecessarily, you should not walk on the coating.

Now the installation technology:

Strengthen the overhang. A drip bar is mounted to protect the structure of the rafters and battens from moisture. Place one edge of the dripper on the deck, close the overhang with the second. Fastening with galvanized nails. Pitch 200-250 mm, checkerboard pattern, layout with an overlap of 30 mm. The gaps are smeared with bituminous mastic, sealant.
Attach hooks for drain pipes.
Lay waterproofing carpet. The adhesive underside facilitates the installation process. Start from the valley section. From the point of inflection, an overlap of at least 0.5 m is left on both sides. It is better to do without joints, but if necessary, leave an overlap of 150 mm. Laying from bottom to top, the junction is pre-treated with bitumen-based mastic. Along the cornice overhang, the free residue of waterproofing material is 0.6 m.

Advice! Before laying, the waterproofing carpet is rolled out, cut, then the protective film is removed and only then glued onto the substrate. Additional fixation along the edges with stainless steel nails will help to secure the sheet of material more firmly. The points of joints and overlaps are additionally sealed with bituminous mastic, crimped.

Carpet lining. The product also has the form of a roll with an adhesive base protected by a paper layer. The layout option depends on the profile of the selected tile shingles, the shape of the roof, the angle of the slope. In the case of choosing Jazz, Trio coverage, an underlayment is a must. If the roof slope is 12-18 °, the lining is mounted around the entire perimeter of the roof. Installation should be carried out from below, overlaps of at least 150-200 mm, lubrication of the joints is required. The top edge is additionally fastened with galvanized nails. If the slope angle is from 18 °, the lining is needed at the kinks, at the points where the gable line adjoins the wall panels.
Gable plank needed for arranging side cuts. The additional element already has the desired shape, is mounted on the lining or waterproofing flooring and fastened with nails in 150 mm increments.

Advice! When starting to lay out shingles of tiles, it is better to first mark the slope. Mesh markings will help to place the roofing material, taking into account centering, joints. It is easier and smoother to make markings with a regular paint cord.

First strip of shingles as a rule, ridge-cornice or ordinary ordinary with cut petals. The sheet is laid out on the edge of the slope so that one edge of the shingle goes to the gable bar. The lower edge of the shingle should lie on the drip with a 150 mm indent from the fold of the additional element. Fastening at the corners with a gap from the edge of 20-30 mm.

Advice! Often sheets in packs have some differences in color background. So that the laid shingles do not differ much, you should open several packs in advance and lay out the elements alternately.

How to lay ordinary soft tiles? The first shingle does not reach the edge of the starting strip 10 mm, the sheet is fixed with nails (except for the adhesive base). The number of fasteners with a slope of 12-45 ° steepness per sheet is 4 pieces, and at the junction points of two sheets, the nails are stuffed so that the hat “covers” the edges of both shingles. If the slope angle is greater than 45°, fasteners are driven into each sheet.

After the do-it-yourself installation of tiles along the slopes is completed, it remains to arrange the valley and gables. Flexible roofing has a lot of advantages, one of them is the quick arrangement of the most difficult areas. The roof in the valley area is arranged as follows:

Designate an area where nails cannot be driven in (300 mm from the middle point of the valley), mark the boundaries of the additional gutter - this is about 5-15 cm in both directions.
Now hammer the fasteners of ordinary tiles as close as possible to the line, beyond which fasteners are no longer allowed.
Cut the shingle along the gutter installation line.
To prevent water from leaking under the edge of the material, the corners of the material are cut (4-5 cm each), the loose edge is attached to bituminous mastic.

It is not difficult to lay roofing material along the gables: the side shingles are cut off with the calculation of the distance to the ribs of 10 mm. Cut the upper corner, as well as the valley elements: obliquely 4-5 cm. “Sit” the edges of the tiles on the bituminous mastic and fix with nails.

The installation of bituminous tiles on the ridge has its own characteristics: a gap is cut along the ridge element, not reaching the ribs of 300 mm. The installation of shingles is carried out before the start of the slot, after which an additional element (ridge profile) is mounted. A long skate may require several profiles, this is normal. Fastening with nails, laying out end-to-end, mating points are smeared with bitumen.

Important! On the ridge, underwind installation is carried out; flexible tiles are laid out towards the wind, with an overlap of at least 30-50 mm.

Installing a soft roof is not difficult, especially if you follow the technological subtleties of the process and perform an accurate preliminary calculation. Work is carried out on a dry sunny day without wind and intense heat. If clarification is required, watch a video from professionals: do-it-yourself flexible tile laying.

Flexible shingles are by far one of the most popular materials that are used in the form of roofing for roofs. There are several reasons why it has become so widespread in our market.

First, in all sorts of colors and shapes, it occupies a leading position among all types of coverage. Today, each brand of shingles is represented by at least 40-50 types various options, so even the most fastidious buyer will always be able to find the option he likes. Secondly, in terms of ease and speed of installation, this is also the most successful, from a technological point of view, coating option that does not require the use of special equipment and tools. Due to the low weight, the work of lifting and delivery directly to the place of work is simplified. Thirdly, having the properties of elasticity and flexibility, this species coatings can be used on any types and forms of roofing, even those with radial curvature. The last advantage, which is unique to this type of coating, is that with the advent of bituminous tiles, it became possible to implement projects of some forms of roofing that had previously been impossible to perform technologically. The affordable cost of such material should also be noted.

Before laying flexible tiles, it is necessary to perform a number of activities that are associated with the arrangement of the "roofing pie". In this article, I will consider all the stages of work related to the laying of shingles, which must be completed after the installation of the truss system is completed.

Installation of waterproofing film

The first stage of work is associated with laying a waterproofing (windproof) film. In this case, a diffusion film-membrane can be used, since the flexible tile coating does not contain elements subject to corrosion. In this regard, there is no need to apply additional measures to exclude this type of impact on the material. This class of insulation is quite widely represented on the market, but the most optimal and often used in construction is the waterproof film of the Czech company Juta, which is called Jutafoll 110-D. When buying, pay attention to the “D” marking, since this letter means that the film is waterproofing, and not, for example, is intended for use in the range of negative temperatures, unlike other markings that are intended for indoor use only. The number 110 is not so important, since it indicates the density of the film. If this parameter is higher, then technical specifications this will only reflect positively.

Installation of the membrane is quite simple. The first roll of film is rolled out along the cornice overhang across the rafters and nailed to them with pre-prepared slats. It is convenient to shoot the film with a staple gun before this. The slats will act as a counter-lattice and act as a ventilation gap between the waterproofing film and the main batten. These measures are taken to organize the circulation of the air flow, and thereby exclude the collection of moisture in hard-to-reach places. Also, given the fact that the air has good thermal insulation properties, these measures are designed to solve the problem of heating in summer and freezing of the roof in winter (the formation of ice and icicles is excluded). The height of the rails is chosen within 25-50 mm, the width must be strictly equal to the width rafter leg. They are cut along the length of 150 cm, like the width of the film.

The rail does not reach the overlap distance of the film (an overlap of at least 12 cm is made at any joints of the membrane). In all cases, galvanized ruffed nails are used for installation, the length of which is selected depending on the thickness of the counter batten (the length must be at least + 50 mm from its thickness). On all roof ridges, the film is not brought 5-10 cm to its end due to the fact that the movement of air under the roofing starts from the cornice and ends in the ridge, therefore, such a gap is made to exit it. Between themselves, the film can be glued with double-sided adhesive tape, but this is an optional condition.

Lathing and final surface preparation

Next, the final crate is stuffed over the counter-lattice. Any board (both edged and unedged) is suitable as a material, the thickness of which is selected in the range of 25-30 mm. Before installation, the material must be dry (with a relative humidity of not more than 20%) and must be treated with a fire-bioprotective preparation. Also, when using an unedged board, it should be necessary to completely remove the bark of the tree, since in the future this is fraught with the fact that woodworms can start between the bark and the wood. The distance between adjacent boards should be no more than 30-35 cm (depending on the thickness of the board used). The length of the nail is chosen such that, when nailed, it pierces both the crate and the counter-crate and fits tightly into the rafter by at least 2-3 cm.

A feature of flexible tiles, as a coating, is that the plane of the roof before laying it must be smooth and even. Therefore, if an edged board is used as a flooring (this option is allowed by the manufacturer), then the differences between adjacent boards are not allowed more than 2 mm. This must be monitored to avoid fractures and kinks of tiles during installation.

It is better to start the installation of OSB-plates on the roof from the hip.

I recommend using a moisture resistant OSB-3 board as a flooring. Thickness, as a rule, choose 10-11mm. Unlike a board, when using it, an ideal plane is obtained, also, having moisture-resistant properties, it does not warp or warp throughout the entire service life. When laying, it is necessary to make gaps of 3-5 mm between each sheets of plates to prevent their swelling at the joints, since linear dimensions material will change with fluctuations in humidity and temperature. For nailing the plates, galvanized nails 3x30 with a large hat are used. The step of nailing between nails is 25-30 cm.

Then go directly to the laying of shingles. First, lining carpets based on fiberglass are rolled out. They are optional waterproofing material between OSB-3 board and shingles. If the angle of inclination of the roof is less than 18 degrees, then underlayment carpets must be laid on the entire plane of the roof. But even at large angles of inclination, carpets must be laid in the following places:

On the eaves. This is one of the most responsible places especially in winter period, since when the snow thaws, ice and icicles form in these places, and in this case, the load in the considered parts of the roof increases.
On the fronts. Such places are most susceptible to moisture ingress during slanting rains.
On skates and ribs.
In valleys (junctions of roof planes). Here it is necessary to use carpets with the color tinting of the main roofing.
In places of various connections and junctions of walls, chimneys and others.

In the valleys, the carpet is laid with an overlap of 0.5 meters.

Indents from the edge of the eaves should be about 1-2 cm, since in hot weather it is possible to heat up and straighten the lining carpets. They need to be nailed only in the upper parts at a distance of 20-25 cm, and all joints should be made with an overlap of about 10 cm. Then stainless steel eaves and gable strips are mounted. To do this, use the same galvanized nails 3x30 with a large hat. The planks are nailed in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15-20 cm. At the joints, a mandatory overlap of 15 cm is made, fixed with two nails.

After that, they proceed to laying the first row of tiles. By standards, it has a rectangular shape (without petals). Previously, all places of contact of metal strips with bituminous tiles must be smeared with bituminous mastic. Mastic has a fairly thick consistency at room temperature, so to simplify working with it, it is necessary to preheat the container with the product. It is applied to the surface of the tile with a narrow construction spatula. The thickness of the applied layer does not exceed 1-2 mm, since it does not contain an adhesive base, and with thick seams, the smeared surfaces can simply disperse. One tile shingle is nailed with four nails at the top. If the angle of inclination of the roof is more than 60 degrees, then two additional nails must be used.

The second and subsequent rows of tiles are nailed with an offset of half a period (1/3 or 2/3, depending on the chosen shape of the tile itself). Every 3-4 rows must be checked for horizontality, or pre-marking the upcoming row (a thread with colored talc is ideal for this purpose), but this is quite painstaking work that takes a lot of time. When fitting, bituminous tiles have to be cut. To do this, it is better to use a short knife with a blade pointed at the end. It is necessary to cut off from the reverse side of the tile, placing a piece of flat board or plywood to prevent accidental damage to the previously laid tile. The mark is carried out with a knife about 3-4 times, then the shingle is bent along the cut line, and the tile is easily divided into two parts.

To work on roofs with a slope of more than 30 degrees, a series of additional measures that improve the usability. The first thing you need to use when working is a safety cable or rope. The second is the use of temporary rails, which are nailed to the slope, bending the petals of the already laid tiles. Otherwise, during installation, you will have to constantly keep the rope taut, since you will not be able to stand on such slopes on your own. And thirdly, the use of overalls (construction overalls) for competent and functional distribution necessary tool on pockets and loops for quick access to it.

In places of ribs and ridges, the tiles are installed with an overlap (the sheet run is bent 10-15 cm to another plane of the roof and nailed). Then the tile is cut into separate petals and mounted on top along the ridge line (rib), and each subsequent petal is nailed in such a way that the places of the nail heads are covered from the previous element of the tile.

There are several basic methods for laying tiles in valley areas. The first is that the elements of the tiles are laid end-to-end on both planes of the roof. The second - involves laying tiles, not reaching 10 cm to the center line. The latter method is preferable both from an aesthetic and practical point of view, since a kind of hollow is formed between the two roof slopes, which makes it easier for rainwater to drain, and thus prevents the formation of local areas in which moisture can collect in the future. In valleys, the use of nails closer than 30 cm from its center is not allowed; for this point of contact between the lining carpet and the tiles, they are smeared with mastic to a width of 10-15 cm. The upper parts of the petals of each row are carefully cut at an angle of 60 degrees.

The final stage

At the junction of walls and chimneys, tiles are laid on vertical plane to a height of 20-30 cm, having previously smeared the joints with bituminous mastic. Then, in the place where the tile ends, an abutment bar is installed on top of it, and all the resulting gaps are covered with a heat-resistant silicone sealant. It is advisable to install metal boxes around chimneys and pipes, using basalt-based insulation as an insulator. They significantly improve the hydrophobic properties at the joints, preventing complex sections of the roof from all kinds of leaks.

Aerators are necessary for air circulation in the inter-roof space.

At a maximum distance of 50-60 cm from the roof ridge, it is necessary to install aerators that serve to remove air from the space between the roofs and, thus, allow organizing competent air circulation. The number of aerators is selected from the following calculation: one aerator for every 25 square meters roofs. At present, ridge aerators have also become widely used, which are a design with an air gap installed directly in the area of the entire length of the ridge. All joints and overlaps around the aerators must be treated with mastic.

It is worth noting that all installation work on tiles it is necessary to carry out at an ambient temperature of at least 15 degrees, at lower temperatures you should use a building hair dryer, heating the tiles in places of kinks. On too sunny and hot days, it is necessary to postpone the installation of the roof, not only for the safety of one's own health, but also because the tiles begin to melt easily, and when moving along the coating, traces and dents remain that will not look aesthetically pleasing in the future.

Today, soft roofs not only occupy a leading position in the market, but have become a real discovery for designers and architects. Many styles, individual solutions and the possibility of easy implementation on a roof with a complex structure - what more could you want? The main thing is to achieve absolute tightness between the shingles, on which the durability of the entire coating depends. And the installation of flexible tiles will be within your power, believe me, even if you are faced with this type of work for the first time!

Therefore, if you carefully read our advice, then with the help of one more person you will cover even a large roof area. The fact is that even in the factory, the shingles are prepared for gluing, applying a special solution to the bottom layer, and they even make four holes so that you know exactly where to drive the roofing nails. And now we will tell you about all the intricacies of working with a soft roof.

Once the roof frame is ready, install the vapor barrier like a solid carpet on the inside of the roof, without gaps, and fix it to the rafters with wooden planks. On the same strips you will then fasten the inner lining of the attic.

Now take care of the vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then all the moisture will come out of it by itself, with the help of natural ventilation. But in the case of a residential attic, vapor barrier is necessary. For this purpose, an additional bar is stuffed on the rafters, a vapor barrier film is rolled out with an overlap and glued with special adhesive tape (the usual one does not fit!).

Next, from the outside, lay the selected insulation on the vapor barrier film, preferably spaced apart. Cover with a windproof membrane on top and fix with bars, which will also later serve to create ventilation ducts.

In the end, you should end up with something like this: layered cake", as roofers like to call it:

We have prepared for you detailed master class how and in what order everything should happen:

As you can see from the above photos, it was not difficult to lay the flexible sheets on the curved lucarnes!

Step 2. Installing solid decking

For the installation of flexible tiles, a rigid solid base is required. Therefore, on the prepared crate, mount a solid carpet of plywood or OSB-boards, with a gap of 3-5 mm, which is necessary for deformation from temperature and moisture, and fix it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.

The main requirement for the base for shingles is a flat area and the ability to fix shingles with nails. For this, sheets of glued wood shavings like plywood or a tongue-and-groove board laid end-to-end are suitable. Only the board should be as dry as possible so that waves do not form during drying. But big mistake use only the crate itself under the soft roof, albeit quickened, because already in the first season the entire roof will simply go in waves. And photos with such problems become a real asset for manufacturers who scare their customers with such mistakes.

Once the base is ready, reinforce the cornice overhang with metal strips. These are laid with an edge on the edge of the base and fastened with roofing nails, in increments of 150 mm, in a checkerboard pattern:

Step 3. Selecting and installing the substrate

Now is the time to take care of waterproofing. It is necessary in such difficult places as adjoining, joints and valleys. Here the canvases are laid from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm in the longitudinal and 15 cm in the transverse direction:

We recommend that you use a specially designed underlay, and not roofing paper or similar material, as is sometimes done. The fact is that they also have a finishing roofing - different dates operation, and even the terms of use!

And such an attempt to save money will soon lead to swelling of the entire roofing carpet. In addition, no manufacturer will guarantee a roof that uses third-party materials in the pie.

By the way, until recently, lining carpets were practically not used in Russia, and even today many people strive to cheat. This is logical, because by the time the roof is being built, it often turns out that the planned budget for the whole house is not enough, and you have to make concessions. But, if you want to lay a flexible tile roofing and forget about it for many decades, then do not give up such an important element.

There is always a risk that water will seep into the roof space, especially in difficult places such as bypassing chimneys or making contact with an installed antenna. There are also emergencies when strong wind lifts the shingles during a downpour.

Moreover, it is not difficult to pick up a roofing carpet, because. it is subject to the same requirements as for tiles: to be resistant to temperature extremes, provide reliable waterproofing and serve for a long time. A modern market provides many options, both imported and domestic. Moreover, many factories in Russia today work on European equipment and in terms of product quality are not inferior to foreign counterparts.

In general, lining carpets are of two types: self-adhesive and mechanically fixed. Self-adhesive ones are laid mainly in valleys, and mechanical ones are rolled out on the remaining area of \u200b\u200bthe roof and fixed with galvanized nails:

Here is the process of installing a conventional roofing carpet, which will need to be fixed with bituminous mastic:

Here is an example of working with a more modern self-adhesive roofing mat:

So, for a valley, a self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is ideal. And, if the slopes have a slope of more than 18 degrees, then consider laying the carpet in all places of possible leaks, and these are: ribs, ridges, gable overhang and all the exits of roofing elements.

But on a roof with a slope of 12 to 18 degrees, you will need a continuous waterproofing carpet. Prior to this, we recommend putting a self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material on the cornice overhangs, for example, "Barrier", and at the same time strive to ensure that the carpet itself is without overlap - continuous along the entire length:

Also insulate the ventilation passages, areas around skylights and chimneys. Before the installation of flexible tiles, coat all the passage elements with bituminous mastic with your own hands - this is not difficult.

Before you start laying shingles, you will also need to reinforce the eaves. You need to fix them with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm. Here is an informative video lesson from the company on this topic:

Step 4. Selecting fasteners

To fix flexible shingles, you will need special wide-head nails. It will be extremely important to nail them so that the hat is in the same plane with the surface of each shingle, and at the same time does not “crash” into it. In addition, nails for soft tiles must be galvanized.

Nails for mounting soft tiles are divided into the following types:

Roofing nails. They have such a sharpened point that when deepened into the bitumen layer, they do not violate its integrity. Such nails are produced galvanized or without a protective layer at all. Of course, unprotected ones are the cheapest, but at the same time they are not at all practical and quickly begin to rust. These are only suitable for assembling furniture or building temporary shelters.
Ruffed nails. On the working rod, they have special cloves that are directed towards the cap. These are not easily hammered into the wood, although it is quite difficult to pull them out even with a nail puller. And most often, in the process of dismantling, they simply cut off the head of the ruffed nails - and that's it. They fix the roofing so firmly that they are more often used for slate than for soft roof.
club nails have longitudinal grooves and lintels on the working rod, and they are less suitable for soft roofing.

We recommend that you take exactly galvanized ruffed nails with a head diameter of 8-9 millimeters as roofing nails specifically for flexible tiles. They also produce special nails for bituminous shingles, and they differ from standard counterparts.

These are made of durable steel wire, which is automatically cut into equal pieces, then the workpiece is sharpened on one side, and riveted into a hat shape on the other. If you see these for sale, you can buy them.

But it is important at the same time that the nails themselves comply with GOST 4030-63: the diameter of the rod is 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the cap is at least 8 mm. The thing is that in working with concrete shingles, the most unpleasant moment is when the nails, at the next blow, simply sink into the bituminous layer and violate the integrity of the coating. But the extended hat will not be able to “drown” so easily. And the larger it is, the better it will hold the shingle, which is why high-quality nails for shingles resemble a pushpin. Moreover, for single-layer and two-layer tiles, you will need nails with parameters of 30x3.5 mm, and for a three-layer one - 45x3.5 mm.

By the way, some unfortunate builders do not understand why it is impossible to simply heat the sheets of soft tiles and stick them on the flooring, why nails and all the fuss associated with them? In fact, the use of open fire on such a roof is prohibited due to elementary considerations. fire safety. So forget about this risky idea and rent an automatic device.

Step 5 Place the Starting Strip

And now we proceed directly to the laying of flexible tiles. It starts from the start line. As such, you can take:

a pattern from an ordinary tile, for example, a shingle with cut petals, if you are working with collections " Tango" or " Trio»;
universal ridge-cornice tiles, especially if you work with " Chord», « Sonata" or " Jazz».

If it is more convenient for you to start with the eaves shingles, lay them on top of the metal strip, stepping back a little from the place of the inflection. Next, nail it with nails, but keep in mind that the longer and steeper the slope, the greater should be the indent from the bend:

This is how laying the starting strip looks in practice:

Step 6. Installation of different types of shingles

Now let's unpack the shingles. The main requirement for their installation is dry, warm weather, because it is undesirable to lay bituminous tiles at temperatures below + 5 ° C, because. in areas where it will need to be bent, it will be difficult to do without cracks.

If you still have to fasten the shingles in such conditions, then prevention will be needed: the sheets are heated with a building hair dryer and bent to metal pipe about 10 cm in diameter. But it's better not to do that.

count up required amount shingles is not difficult: take one sheet, measure the area that will be visible, find out the area of \u200b\u200bthe slope and divide the second by the first. Here valuable advice how to calculate and prepare a flexible tile for installation:

Of course, if you have a diamond eye, then detailed calculations can be dispensed with, but marking lines serve as excellent guides along which you can align the tiles both vertically and horizontally. Especially if you are laying a soft roof for the first time.

Believe me, tearing off a few sheets and attaching them again to fix a jamb is not the most fun thing. And absolutely without marking, if some element is embedded in the roof or the general geometry of the ramp is broken. In this case, you will be helped by such tools as a beating, a plumb line and a level.

As we have already said, for convenience, ready-made shingles are usually marked with small holes at the factory so that you know exactly where to hammer nails. If there are none (for example, the cheapest collections), then just step back 2-3 cm from the edge and be guided by this illustration:

In each case, the place where the nail is driven will directly depend on the shape of the cutting of the tile itself. It is only important that each nail pierces both the lower and upper edges of all sheets at the same time, and if you are laying flexible tiles on slopes with an angle of 45 °, then the upper corners of the shingle also need to be additionally fixed.

The whole procedure for laying flexible tiles is not complicated, here are the instructions for the process itself:

Before laying, mix the shingles from several sticks to minimize color variation. The fact is that even in one mail the color can differ so much that you will be surprised, and such incidents will be very noticeable on the roof.
If the slope is long enough, start laying tiles from its center and align it horizontally. And the second row - already shifting the shingles to the left or right by half a sheet. Move the third and all subsequent rows relative to the previous one, also half the petal, to the left or right, depending on which direction you chose initially.
You need to start laying tiles on a slope with a smaller slope, while you should enter a steeper slope by at least 30 cm. On a steeper slope, it is recommended to beat off the chalk lines so as not to go astray. Now cut the tiles on a steeper slope along this new line, and after fixing, coat with bituminous mastic where there is no self-adhesive layer on the back side.
Lay the tiles from the bottom up, stepping back from the edge of the drips. Here it will be necessary to lay a special ridge-cornice tile. By the way, you can replace it with a regular one if you cut the petals.

Now secure the shingles. An automatic tool is good for this, especially if it works from the mains. Most importantly, when choosing a model, take care of your own safety: the trigger must be comfortable, with protection against accidental firing and the ability to remove a stuck nail without any risk. After all, usually a hammer is more intended for small jobs By household, and professional roofers rarely use it.

The only point: if special roofing nails do not fit the gun, take a ready-made clip with nails with a wide flat head. They differ in that they are interconnected by a thin wire. Here such a tape is inserted into the chamber and the nail is fed one by one. This is much more convenient when working at height: no need to look for bunches, no need to put your fingers under the blow, and the fastening itself will be of better quality than when you are already too tired on the 501st nail. The main thing is to follow the basic technology: the nail must be driven in strictly perpendicular to the plane of the shingle.

Remember, if some shingle was fixed unreliably, then over time it will loosen its fastening and fly off with a gust of wind. And the nail itself, lifted from the wind, will tear the sheet, loosening the neighboring one. And all this will lead to leakage and the necessary repairs. Of course, it will not be possible to completely do without problem areas, which is why a periodic inspection of such a roof is needed.

Now consider the features of the installation of shingles different types. So, with a single-layer tile, before installation, you need to remove the protective film, which is always located on both sides of the shingle. Why is she? The fact is that this roofing is transported by ordinary trucks both in the heat and in the heat, but we are still talking about bitumen.

But in collections with such cuts as " dragon tooth”, there is no film, it is only important to choose a beautiful pattern or lay it randomly, simply by mixing the shingles.

And how exactly to work with each type of shingle cutting, the following illustrations will help you:

Further, if you have to work with complicated roof, you have two ways of laying shingles: segmented and seamless. In the first method, divide the corner or cone into equal segments, and lay out each of them separately. And in this way, cover the entire roof. The seamless method is already more complicated: here it is important to make the correct markup of the slope and navigate along it. Think and choose the one that seems more convenient to you.

Step 7. Fixing the tiles in the valleys

And now - about the most problematic places of the roof. Valleys, namely the internal bends of the roof, you can organize in two ways: open and closed, which is also called the undercut method. The main thing then is to make a triangular rail at the junction of the roof with the wall and put tiles under it.

In addition, if the wall is brick, it must be plastered and treated with a bituminous primer. The upper part of the junction should then be closed with a metal apron, which must be fixed and inserted into the strobes, and then sealed:

Step 8. Laying ridge and back tiles

Next, we will deal with the concepts of ridge tiles. As you might guess, these are the shingles that cover the ridge of the roof. All other tiles are called ordinary. By the way, spinal tiles are obtained when the ridge-eaves are divided into three parts, or they are cut out from the usual ordinary by perforation.

To properly lay the back tiles, with the help of a cord, beat off the dimensions of the future ridge - these are two strips along it, and lay the back tiles from the bottom up. Then fix the shingles with nails on each side and make sure that the overlap of the overlying shingles overlaps the nails by 5 cm.

The ridge tiles are laid from the side that is opposite to the so-called wind rose (you can find out about this from your neighbors or from the wind map). Further - everything is the same as during the laying of the ridge. If there is no self-adhesive layer in the right places, coat it with mastic.

Now let's move on to the ribs. Here, ordinary tiles should be cut so that a distance of 3 to 5 mm remains between adjacent slopes:

Here is another great tutorial where you can go over the details of the process:

And finally finishing work. The laying of flexible tiles is always completed by installing a ridge aerator. To do this, a special groove is cut out along all the slopes, and an aerator is inserted into it. It is fixed with nails and covered with specially ridge tiles.

Also, for a soft roof, special additional elements are made - these are the lower parts of the roof passages, which are popularly called "skirts". And so that snow does not accumulate behind the ventilation and chimney pipes, especially when their cross section exceeds 50x50 cm, you need to organize a groove. In short, you will need the following items:

So, your roof is ready, and it remains only to properly care for it. To do this, once every six months, use a soft brush to sweep all small debris from the roof, leaves and branches. The main thing is not to use sharp tools, because it is important not to scratch the basalt chips. And clean the gutters and funnels from time to time.

Luckily, shingle roofing is highly maintainable: just warm up the damaged area, remove it, and lay new tiles. A matter of one day!