A simple gun at home. Do-it-yourself heat gun: step-by-step instructions for making. Advantages and disadvantages of homemade guns
A powerful model of the famous Gauss gun, which you can make with your own hands from improvised means, is satisfied. This homemade Gauss gun is made very simply, has a lightweight design, every homemade lover and radio amateur can find all the parts used. With the help of the coil calculation program, you can get the maximum power.
So, to make the Gauss Cannon, we need:
- Piece of plywood.
- Sheet plastic.
- Plastic tube for muzzle ∅5 mm.
- Copper wire for coil ∅0.8 mm.
- Large electrolytic capacitors
- start button
- Thyristor 70TPS12
- Batteries 4X1.5V
- Incandescent lamp and socket for it 40W
- Diode 1N4007
Assembling the body for the scheme of the Gauss gun
The shape of the case can be any, it is not necessary to adhere to the presented scheme. To give the case an aesthetic appearance, you can paint it with spray paint.
Installing parts in the housing for the Gauss Cannon
To begin with, we fasten the capacitors, in this case they were fixed to plastic ties, but you can think of another mount.
Then we install the cartridge for the incandescent lamp on the outside of the housing. Don't forget to connect two power wires to it.
Then we place the battery compartment inside the case and fix it, for example, with wood screws or in another way.
Coil winding for the Gauss Cannon
To calculate the Gaussian coil, you can use the FEMM program, you can download the FEMM program from this link https://code.google.com/archive/p/femm-coilgun
Using the program is very easy, you need to enter the necessary parameters in the template, load them into the program, and at the output we get all the characteristics of the coil and the future gun as a whole, up to the speed of the projectile.
So, let's start winding! First you need to take the prepared tube and wrap paper around it using PVA glue so that the outer diameter of the tube is 6 mm.
Then we drill holes in the center of the segments and put them on the tube. Fix them with hot glue. The distance between the walls should be 25 mm.
We put the coil on the barrel and proceed to the next step ...
Scheme Gauss Cannon. Assembly
We assemble the circuit inside the case by surface mounting.
Then we install the button on the case, drill two holes and thread the wires for the coil there.
To simplify use, you can make a stand for the gun. In this case, it was made from a wooden block. In this version of the carriage, gaps were left along the edges of the barrel, this is necessary in order to adjust the coil, moving the coil, you can achieve the greatest power.
Cannon shells are made from a metal nail. Segments are made 24 mm long and 4 mm in diameter. Ammunition blanks need to be sharpened.
Gauss gun do it yourself
Since they have already begun to meet in one of the articles with Gauss guns, or in another way Gauss Gun which are made do it yourself, in this article I publish another design and video recordings of the Gauss gun.
This Gauss gun powered by a battery in 12 Volt. You can see it in the picture.
This article can also be used as an instruction, as it describes in detail the assembly of the gun.
Gun characteristics:
Weight: 2.5 kg
Projectile speed: approximately 9 m/s
Projectile weight: 29 g
Projectile kinetic energy: approximately 1.17 J.
Charging time for capacitors from the battery through the converter: 2 sec
Charging time for capacitors from the network through the converter: about 30 sec
Dimensions: 200x70x170 mm
This electromagnetic accelerator is capable of firing any metal projectiles that are magnetic. The Gauss gun consists of a coil and capacitors. When flowing electric current through the coil, an electromagnetic field is formed, which in turn accelerates the metal projectile. The purpose is very different - basically to scare your classmates. In this article I will tell you how to make yourself such a Gauss gun.
Structural Diagram of a Gauss Cannon
I would like to clarify the moment. On the block diagram, the capacitor is 450 Volts. And 500 Volts comes out of the multiplier. Absurd. Isn't it true? Well, the author didn't take this into account a bit.
And now the multiplier circuit itself:
In the scheme used by the field transistor IRF 3205.With this transistor charging speed capacitor 1000 uF for a voltage of 500 volts will be approximately equal to 2 seconds(with 4 amp/hour battery). You can use an IRL3705 transistor, but the charging speed will be about 10 seconds. Here is a video of the converter in action:
The video multiplier has an IRL3705 transistor, so the capacitors take a long time to charge. Later, I replaced IRL3705 with IRF 3205, the charging speed became 2 seconds.
Resistor R7 regulated output voltage from 50 to 900 volts; LED 1 shows when the capacitors have charged to the correct voltage. If the multiplier transformer is noisy, try reducing the capacitance of the capacitor C1, the inductor L1 is not necessary, the capacitance of the capacitor C2 can be reduced to 1000 uF, the diodes D1 and D2 can be replaced with other diodes with similar characteristics. IMPORTANT! Close switch S1 only after the voltage is applied to the power outputs. Otherwise, if voltage is applied to the terminals and switch S1 is closed, the transistor may fail due to a sudden voltage surge!
The circuit itself works simply: the UC3845 chip generates rectangular pulses that are fed to the gate of a powerful field-effect transistor, where they are amplified in amplitude and fed to the primary winding of a pulse transformer. Further, the pulses pumped by the pulse transformer to an amplitude of 500-600 volts are rectified by the diode D2 and the capacitors are charged by the rectified voltage. The transformer is taken from a computer power supply. The diagram shows dots near the transformer. These dots indicate the start of the winding. The winding method of the transformer is as follows:
1 . We cook a transformer taken from an unnecessary computer PSU (the largest transformer) in boiling water for 5-10 minutes, then carefully disassemble the W-shaped ferrite core and unwind the transformer completely.
2
. First, we wind HALF of the secondary winding with a wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm. It is necessary to wind from the leg indicated in the diagram by the point.
After winding 27 turns, we remove the wire without biting it off, isolate 27 turns with paper or cardboard and remember in which direction the wire was wound. THIS IS IMPORTANT !!! If the primary winding is wound in the opposite direction, then nothing will work, since the currents will be subtracted !!!
3 . Next, we wind the primary winding. We also wind it from the beginning indicated in the diagram. We wind it in the same direction in which the first part of the primary winding was wound. The primary winding consists of 6 wires soldered together and wound with 4 turns. We wind all 6 wires parallel to each other, evenly laying them out in 4 turns in two layers. Between the layers lay a layer of insulating paper.
4 . Next, we wind the secondary winding (another 27 turns). We wind in the same direction as before. And now the transformer is ready! It remains to collect the scheme itself. If the circuit is done correctly, then the circuit works immediately without any settings.
Parts for converter:
The converter requires a powerful power source such as a 4 amp/hour battery. The more powerful the battery, the faster the charging of the capacitors.
Here is the converter itself:
Converter printed circuit board - bottom view:
This board is quite large and after working a little, I drew a smaller board in Sprint-layout:
For those who are not able to make a converter, there is a version of the Gauss gun from the ~220 volt mains. Here is the circuit of the multiplier from the network:
You can take any diodes that hold a voltage above 600 volts, the capacitance of the capacitor is selected empirically from 0.5 to 3.3 microfarads.
If the scheme is created correctly, then it will work immediately without any settings.
My coil is 8 ohm. It is wound with copper varnished wire with a diameter of 0.7 mm. The total length of the wire is about 90 meters.
Now that everything is done, it remains to assemble the gun itself. The total cost of the gun is about 1000 rubles. The cost was calculated as follows:
- Battery 500 rubles.
- The wire can be found for 100 rubles.
- All sorts of little things and details 400 rubles.
For those who want to make the same gun as mine, here step-by-step instruction:
1) We cut out a piece of plywood measuring 200x70x5 mm.
2) We make a special mount for the handle. You can make a handle out of a toy pistol, but I have an insulin pistol grip. A button with two positions (three pins) is installed inside the handle.
3) Install the handle.
4) We make plywood mounts for the converter.
5) Install the converter on plywood.
6) We make a protective shield on the converter so that the projectile does not damage the converter.
7) We install the coil and solder all the wires as in the block diagram.
8) We make the case from fiberboard
9) We install all the switches in place, we fix the battery with large ties. That's all! The gun is ready! This gun fires the following projectiles:
Projectile diameter 10 mm and length 50 mm. Weight 29 grams.
Raised hull gun:
And finally some videos
Here is a video of the Gauss gun in action. Shot in a corrugated cardboard box
Shot at 0.8 mm thick tiles:
Hello. Today we will build a Gauss Cannon at home using parts that can be easily found in local stores. Using capacitors, a switch, and a few other parts, we will create a launcher capable of launching small nails up to about 3 meters using electromagnetism. Let's get started!
Step 1: Watch the video
Watch the video first. You will study the project and see the gun in action. Read on for more detailed assembly instructions for the Gauss Gun.
Step 2: Gathering the necessary materials
For the project you will need:
- 8 large capacitors. I used 3,300uF 40V. The key here is that the lower the voltage, the less danger, so look for options in the 30 - 50 Volt region. When it comes to capacity, the more, the better.
- One circuit breaker for high currents
- One coil of 20 turns (I twisted mine with 18awg wire)
- Copper sheet and/or thick copper lead
Step 3: Glue the Capacitors
Take the capacitors and glue them together so that the positive terminals are closer to the center of the glue. Glue them first in 4 groups of 2 pieces. Then glue two groups together, resulting in 2 groups of 4 capacitors. Then put one group on top of the other.
Step 4: Assembling the Capacitor Group
The photo shows what the final design should look like.
Now take the positive terminals and connect them to each other and then solder to the copper plate. A thick copper wire or sheet can serve as an overlay.
Step 5: Soldering the copper pads
Use directed heat if necessary (a small industrial hair dryer), heat up the copper plates and solder the capacitor terminals to them.
The photo shows my group of capacitors after completing this step.
Step 6: Solder the negative terminals of the capacitors
Take another thick conductor, I used an insulated copper lead with a large section, removing the insulation from it in the right places.
Bend the wire so that it covers the entire distance of our group of capacitors as efficiently as possible.
Solder it in the right places.
Step 7: Prepare the Projectile
Next, you need to prepare a suitable projectile for the coil. I wound my spool around the bobbin. I used a small straw as a muzzle. Therefore, my projectile must enter the straw. I took a nail and cut it to a length of about 3 cm, leaving the sharp part of it.
Step 8: Find the right switch
Then I had to find a way to dump the charge from the capacitors onto the coil. Most people use rectifiers (SCR) for such needs. I decided to take it easy and found a switch that works with high strength current.
There are three current ratings on the switch: 14.2A, 15A, and 500A. My calculations showed a maximum force of about 40A at a peak lasting about a millisecond, so it should have worked.
THE NOTE. Do not use my switching method if your capacitors are larger. I tried my luck and it worked, but you don't want the switch to explode because you ran 300A through a 1A switch.
Step 9: Winding the Coil
We have almost finished assembling the electromagnetic gun. Time to wind the coil.
I tried three different coils and found that about 20 turns of 16 or 18 awg insulated wire worked best. I used an old spool, wrapped some wire around it, and threaded a plastic straw inside, sealing one end of the straw with hot glue.
Step 10: We assemble the device according to the scheme
Now that you have prepared all the pieces, put them together. If you have any problems, follow the diagram.
Step 11: Fire Safety
Congratulations! We made the Grass cannon with our own hands. Use a charger to charge your capacitors up to near maximum voltage. I charged my rig at 40V to 38V.
Load the projectile into the tube and press the button. The current will go to the coil and it will shoot a nail.
BE CAREFUL! Even though this is a low-current project, and that it will not kill you, but still such a current can harm your health. The second photo shows what will happen if you accidentally connect plus and minus.
Hello friends! Surely some of you have already read or personally encountered the Gaussian electromagnetic accelerator, which is better known as the "Gauss Gun".
The traditional Gauss gun is built using hard-to-find or rather expensive high-capacity capacitors, and some wiring (diodes, thyristors, etc.) is also required to properly load and fire. This can be quite difficult for people who do not understand anything in radio electronics, but the desire to experiment does not allow them to sit still. In this article, I will try to talk in detail about the principle of operation of the gun and how you can assemble a Gaussian accelerator simplified to a minimum.
The main part of the gun is the coil. As a rule, it is wound independently on some dielectric non-magnetic rod, which in diameter slightly exceeds the diameter of the projectile. In the proposed design, the coil can even be wound "by eye", because the principle of operation simply does not allow any calculations to be made. It is enough to get copper or aluminum wire with a diameter of 0.2-1 mm in lacquer or silicone insulation and wind 150-250 turns on the barrel so that the winding length of one row is about 2-3 cm. You can also use a ready-made solenoid.
When an electric current passes through a coil, a magnetic field is generated in it. Simply put, the coil turns into an electromagnet that draws in an iron projectile, and so that it does not remain in the coil, you just need to turn off the current when it enters the solenoid.
In classic guns, this is achieved through precise calculations, the use of thyristors and other components that will "cut off" the pulse at the right time. We will simply break the chain "when we can." For emergency tearing electrical circuit fuses are used in everyday life, they can be used in our project, but it is more advisable to replace them with bulbs from a Christmas tree garland. They are designed to be powered by low voltage, therefore, when powered from a 220V network, they instantly burn out and break the circuit.
The finished device consists of only three parts: a coil, a network cable and a light bulb connected in series to the coil.
Many will agree that using a gun in this form is extremely inconvenient and unaesthetic, and sometimes even very dangerous. So I mounted the device on a small piece of plywood. I installed separate terminals for the coil. This makes it possible to quickly change the solenoid and experiment with different options. For the light bulb, I installed two thin cut nails. The ends of the light bulb wires simply wrap around them, so the light bulb changes very quickly. Please note that the flask itself is located in a specially made hole.
The fact is that when fired, there is a big flash and sparks, so I considered it necessary to take this “stream” down a little. Scheme of a simple single-stage desktop electromagnetic mass accelerator or simply - Gauss gun. Named after the German scientist Carl Gauss. In my case, the accelerator consists of a charge, a current-limiting load, two electrolytic capacitors, voltmeter and solenoid.
So, let's take everything in order. Charging the gun is powered by 220 volts. Charging consists of a 1.5uF 400V capacitor. Diodes 1N4006. Output voltage 350 V.
Next comes the current-limiting load - H1, in my case an incandescent lamp, but you can use a powerful resistor of 500 - 1000 ohms. Key S1 limits the charging of capacitors. Key S2 delivers a powerful discharge of current to the solenoid, so S2 must withstand a large current, in my case I used a button from the electrical panel.
Capacitors C1 and C2, each 470 uF 400 V. In total, 940 uF 400 V is obtained. Connect the capacitors observing the polarity and voltage on them during charging. You can control the voltage on them with a voltmeter.
And now the most difficult thing in our gauss gun design is the solenoid. It is wound on a dielectric rod. The inner diameter of the trunk is 5-6 mm. The wire used PEL 0.5. The thickness of the coil is 1.5 cm. The length is 2 cm. When winding the solenoid, it is necessary to isolate each layer with super glue.
To accelerate with our electromagnetic gauss gun, we will trim nails or homemade bullets 4-5 mm thick, as long as a reel. Lighter bullets fly longer. Heavier ones fly less distance, but they have more energy. My gauss gun pierces beer cans and shoots 10-12 meters depending on the bullet.
And yet, for the accelerator it is better to select thicker wires so that there is less resistance in the circuit. Be extremely careful! During the invention of the accelerator, I was shocked several times, follow the rules of electrical safety and pay attention to the reliability of the insulation. Good luck in creativity.
Discuss the article GAUSS GUN
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In this article, Konstantin from How-todo will show you how to make a portable Gauss Cannon.
The project was made just for fun, so there was no goal to set any records in Gaussian building.
In fact, Konstantin even became too lazy to count the coil.
Let's start by brushing up on the theory. How does the Gauss gun work.
We charge the capacitor high voltage and discharge it onto a coil of copper wire located on the barrel.
When current flows through it, a powerful electromagnetic field is created. A ferromagnetic bullet is drawn into the barrel. The charge on the capacitor is used up very quickly and, ideally, current through the coil stops flowing when the bullet is in the middle.
After that, she continues to fly by inertia.
Before proceeding to the assembly, it should be warned that you need to work very carefully with high voltage.
Especially when using such large capacitors, it can be quite dangerous.
We will make a single-stage gun.
First, because of the simplicity. Electronics in it is almost elementary.
In the manufacture of a multi-stage system, it is necessary to somehow switch the coils, calculate them, and install sensors.
Secondly, a multi-stage device simply would not fit in the intended pistol form factor.
For even now the body is full. Similar turning point pistols were taken as the basis.
The body will be printed on a 3D printer. To do this, we start with a model.
We make it in Fusion360, all files will be in the description, if suddenly someone wants to repeat.
We will try to put all the details as compactly as possible. By the way, there are very few of them.
4 18650 batteries, totaling approximately 15V.
In their seat in the model, recesses are provided for installing jumpers.
Which we will make from thick foil.
A module that boosts battery voltage to about 400 volts to charge a capacitor.
The capacitor itself, and this is a bank of 1000 microfarads 450 V.
And the last. The actual coil.
The rest of the little things like a thyristor, batteries to open it, start buttons can be placed with a canopy or glued to the wall.
So there are no separate seats for them.
For the barrel you need a non-magnetic tube.
We will use the corpus ballpoint pen. This is much simpler than let's print it on a printer and then grind it.
We wind a copper varnished wire with a diameter of 0.8 mm on the coil frame, laying insulation between each layer. Each layer must be rigidly fixed.
We wind each layer as tightly as possible, turn to turn, we make as many layers as will fit in the case.
The handle is made of wood.
The model is ready, you can start the printer.
Almost all parts are made with a 0.8 mm nozzle and only the button holding the barrel is made with a 0.4 mm nozzle.
Printing took about seven hours, so it turned out that only pink plastic remained.
After printing, carefully clean the model from supports. We buy primer and paint from the store.
It was not possible to use acrylic paint, but it refused to lay down normally even on the ground.
For painting PLA plastic, there are special sprays and paints that will hold perfectly even without preparation.
But such paints were not found, it turned out clumsy of course.
I had to paint half leaning out the window.
Let's say that an uneven surface is such a style, and in general it was planned so.
While printing is in progress and the paint dries, let's take care of the handle.
There was no tree of suitable thickness, so we glue two pieces of parquet together.
When it is dry, we give it a rough shape with a jigsaw.
We are a little surprised that a cordless jigsaw cuts 4 cm of wood without much difficulty.
Next, with the help of a dremel and a nozzle, we round the corners.
Due to the small width of the workpiece, the inclination of the handle is not quite the same as desired.
Let's smooth out these inconveniences with ergonomics.
We overwrite the irregularities with a nozzle with sandpaper, manually go through the 400th.
After stripping, cover with oil in several layers.
We fasten the handle to the self-tapping screw, having previously drilled the channel.
With finishing sandpaper and files, we adjust all the details to each other so that everything closes, holds and clings as it should.
You can move on to electronics.
The first step is to install the button. Approximately estimating so that in the future it does not interfere much.
Next, assemble the battery compartment.
To do this, cut the foil into strips and glue it under the battery contacts. Batteries are connected in series.
We always check that there is a reliable contact.
When this is done, you can connect the high-voltage module through the button, and a capacitor to it.
You can even try to charge it.
We set the voltage to about 410 V, in order to discharge it to the coil without loud pops of closing contacts, you need to use a thyristor that works like a switch.
And for it to close, a small voltage of one and a half volts on the control electrode is enough.
Unfortunately, it turned out that the step-up module has a middle point, and this does not allow you to take control voltage from already installed batteries without any special tricks.
Therefore, we take a finger battery.
A small clock button serves as a trigger, switching large currents through the thyristor.
That would have been the end of it, but two thyristors could not stand such abuse.
So I had to select a more powerful thyristor, 70TPS12, it can withstand 1200-1600V and 1100A per impulse.
Since the project is still frozen for a week, we will also buy more parts in order to make a charge indicator. It can operate in two modes, lighting only one diode, shifting it, or lighting all in turn.
The second option looks more beautiful.
The scheme is quite simple, but on Ali you can buy a ready-made such module.
By adding a couple of megaohm resistors to the input of the indicator, you can connect it directly to the capacitor.
The new thyristor, as planned, easily passes powerful currents.
The only thing is that it does not close, that is, before firing, you need to turn off the charging so that the capacitor can be completely discharged, and the thyristor goes into its original state.
This could have been avoided if the converter had a half-wave rectifier.
Attempts to remake the existing success did not bring.
You can start making bullets. They must be magnetic.
You can take such wonderful dowel-nails, they have a diameter of 5.9 mm.
And the trunk fits perfectly, it remains only to cut off the hat, and sharpen it a bit.
The weight of the bullet turned out to be 7.8 g.
Speed, unfortunately, now there is nothing to measure.
We finish the assembly by gluing the body and coil.
You can test it, this toy makes holes in aluminum cans well, punches through cardboard boxes, and in general you can feel the power.
Although many claim that the Gauss cannon is silent, it does pop a little when fired, even without a bullet.
When large currents are passed through the wire of the coil, although this happens in a fraction of a second, it heats up and expands a little.
If you impregnate the coil epoxy resin, you can partially get rid of this effect.
Homemade was presented for you by Konstantin, How-todo workshop.
Hi all. In this article, we will consider how to make a portable Gaussian electromagnetic gun assembled using a microcontroller. Well, about the Gauss gun, of course, I got excited, but there is no doubt that it is an electromagnetic gun. This device on a microcontroller was developed in order to teach beginners how to program microcontrollers using the example of constructing an electromagnetic gun with their own hands. Let's analyze some design points both in the Gauss electromagnetic gun itself and in the program for the microcontroller.
From the very beginning, you need to decide on the diameter and length of the barrel of the gun itself and the material from which it will be made. I used a plastic case with a diameter of 10 mm from under a mercury thermometer, since I had it lying around idle. You can use any available material with non-ferromagnetic properties. These are glass, plastic, copper tube, etc. The length of the barrel may depend on the number of electromagnetic coils used. In my case, four electromagnetic coils are used, the barrel length is twenty centimeters.
As for the diameter of the tube used, in the process of operation, the electromagnetic gun showed that it is necessary to take into account the diameter of the barrel relative to the projectile used. Simply put, the diameter of the barrel should not be much larger than the diameter of the projectile used. Ideally, the barrel of an electromagnetic gun should fit under the projectile itself.
The material for creating shells was the axis from the printer with a diameter of five millimeters. From this material, five blanks 2.5 centimeters long were made. Although it is also possible to use steel blanks, say, from a wire or an electrode - what can be found.
You need to pay attention to the weight of the projectile itself. The weight should be kept as low as possible. My shells are a bit heavy.
Before the creation of this gun, experiments were carried out. An empty paste from a pen was used as a barrel, a needle was used as a projectile. The needle easily pierced the cover of a magazine placed near the electromagnetic gun.
Since the original Gauss electromagnetic gun is built on the principle of charging a capacitor with a high voltage, about three hundred volts, for safety reasons, novice radio amateurs should power it with a low voltage, about twenty volts. Low voltage leads to the fact that the range of the projectile is not very long. But again, it all depends on the number of electromagnetic coils used. The more electromagnetic coils used, the greater the acceleration of the projectile in the electromagnetic gun. The diameter of the barrel also matters (the smaller the diameter of the barrel, the farther the projectile flies) and the quality of the winding of the electromagnetic coils themselves. Perhaps, electromagnetic coils are the most basic in the design of an electromagnetic gun, serious attention must be paid to this in order to achieve maximum projectile flight.
I will give the parameters of my electromagnetic coils, they may be different for you. The coil is wound with a wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm. The winding length of the electromagnetic coil layer is two centimeters and contains six such rows. I did not isolate each new layer, but started winding a new layer on the previous one. Due to the fact that electromagnetic coils are powered by low voltage, you need to get the maximum Q factor of the coil. Therefore, we wind all the turns tightly to each other, turn to turn.
As for the feeder, no special explanations are needed here. Everything was soldered from the waste of foil textolite left over from the production of printed circuit boards. The pictures show everything in detail. The heart of the feeder is the SG90 servo driven by a microcontroller.
The feed rod is made of a steel bar with a diameter of 1.5 mm, an m3 nut is soldered at the end of the rod for coupling with the servo drive. A copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm bent at both ends is installed on the servo rocker to increase the arm.
This simple device, assembled from improvised materials, is quite enough to feed a projectile into the barrel of an electromagnetic gun. The feed rod must completely exit the loading magazine. A cracked brass post with an internal diameter of 3 mm and a length of 7 mm served as a guide for the supply rod. It was a pity to throw it away, so it came in handy, in fact, like pieces of foil textolite.
The program for the atmega16 microcontroller was created in AtmelStudio, and is a completely open source project for you. Consider some settings in the microcontroller program that will have to be made. For the most efficient operation of the electromagnetic gun, you will need to set the operating time of each electromagnetic coil in the program. The setting is done in order. First, solder the first coil into the circuit, do not connect the rest. Set the time in the program (in milliseconds).
Flash the microcontroller, and run the program on the microcontroller. The effort of the reel should be enough to pull the projectile and give the initial acceleration. Having achieved the maximum flight of the projectile, adjusting the time of the coil in the microcontroller program, connect the second coil and also adjust the time, achieving an even greater range of the projectile. Accordingly, the first coil remains on.
PORTA |=(1 PORTA &=~(1
In this way, you set up the operation of each electromagnetic coil, connecting them in order. As the number of electromagnetic coils in the Gauss electromagnetic gun device increases, the speed and, accordingly, the range of the projectile should also increase.
This painstaking procedure for setting up each coil can be avoided. But for this, it will be necessary to modernize the device of the electromagnetic gun itself by installing sensors between electromagnetic coils to track the movement of the projectile from one coil to another. Sensors in combination with a microcontroller will not only simplify the tuning process, but also increase the range of the projectile. I did not do these bells and whistles and complicate the microcontroller program. The goal was to implement an interesting and simple project using a microcontroller. How interesting it is, to judge, of course, you. To be honest, I was happy as a child, “threshing” from this device, and I had an idea for a more serious device on a microcontroller. But that's a topic for another article.
Program and scheme -
9,830 ViewsA powerful model of the famous Gauss gun, which you can make with your own hands from improvised means, is satisfied. This homemade Gauss gun is made very simply, has a lightweight design, every homemade lover and radio amateur can find all the parts used. With the help of the coil calculation program, you can get the maximum power.
So, to make the Gauss Cannon, we need:
- Piece of plywood.
- Sheet plastic.
- Plastic tube for muzzle ∅5 mm.
- Copper wire for coil ∅0.8 mm.
- Large electrolytic capacitors
- start button
- Thyristor 70TPS12
- Batteries 4X1.5V
- Incandescent lamp and socket for it 40W
- Diode 1N4007
Assembling the body for the scheme of the Gauss gun
The shape of the case can be any, it is not necessary to adhere to the presented scheme. To give the case an aesthetic appearance, you can paint it with spray paint.
Installing parts in the housing for the Gauss Cannon
To begin with, we fasten the capacitors, in this case they were fixed to plastic ties, but you can think of another mount.
Then we install the cartridge for the incandescent lamp on the outside of the housing. Don't forget to connect two power wires to it.
Then we place the battery compartment inside the case and fix it, for example, with wood screws or in another way.
Coil winding for the Gauss Cannon
To calculate the Gaussian coil, you can use the FEMM program, you can download the FEMM program from this link https://code.google.com/archive/p/femm-coilgun
Using the program is very easy, you need to enter the necessary parameters in the template, load them into the program, and at the output we get all the characteristics of the coil and the future gun as a whole, up to the speed of the projectile.
So, let's start winding! First you need to take the prepared tube and wrap paper around it using PVA glue so that the outer diameter of the tube is 6 mm.
Then we drill holes in the center of the segments and put them on the tube. Fix them with hot glue. The distance between the walls should be 25 mm.
We put the coil on the barrel and proceed to the next step ...
Scheme Gauss Cannon. Assembly
We assemble the circuit inside the case by surface mounting.
Then we install the button on the case, drill two holes and thread the wires for the coil there.
To simplify use, you can make a stand for the gun. In this case, it was made from a wooden block. In this version of the carriage, gaps were left along the edges of the barrel, this is necessary in order to adjust the coil, moving the coil, you can achieve the greatest power.
Cannon shells are made from a metal nail. Segments are made 24 mm long and 4 mm in diameter. Ammunition blanks need to be sharpened.
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There are standard stages of growth that every true radio amateur goes through: flasher, buzzer, power supply, amplifier, and so on. Somewhere in the beginning all sorts of shockers, teslas and gausses were wormed their way. But in my case, the assembly of the Gauss gun struck even when others normal people oscilloscopes and Arduinos have been soldering for a long time. I guess I didn't play enough when I was a kid :-)
In short, I sat for 3 days on the forums, picked up the theory of electromagnetic throwing weapons, collected voltage converter circuits for charging capacitors and got down to business.
Different Inverter Circuits for Gauss
Here are some typical circuits that allow you to get the necessary 400 from 5-12 volt batteries to charge the capacitor, which, when discharged onto the coil, will create a powerful magnetic field that pushes the projectile. This will make Gauss wearable - regardless of the 220 V outlet. Since the batteries were only 4.2 volts on hand - I settled on the lowest voltage DC-DC inverter circuit.
Here the turns have 5 PEL-0.8 primary and 300 PEL-0.2 secondary windings. For assembly, I prepared a beautiful transformer from the ATX power supply unit, which, unfortunately, did not work ...
The circuit started only with a 20 mm ferrite ring from a Chinese electronic transformer. Just finished the windings feedback and everything worked even from 1 volt! Read more. True, further experiments were not encouraging: no matter how I tried to wind different coils on tubes, there was no sense. Someone talked about shot through plywood 2 mm, but this is not my case ...
Unfortunately it's not mine.)
And after I saw the powerful ones, I changed my plans altogether, and so that the body, cut from a plastic cable channel with a handle based on a nickel-plated furniture leg, would not disappear, I decided to put a stun gun from a Chinese flashlight, a flashlight itself and a laser sight from a red pointer. This is the vinaigrette.
The shocker was in an LED flashlight and had not worked for a long time - nickel-cadmium batteries stopped accumulating current. Therefore, I stuffed all this stuffing into a common case, bringing out the buttons and control toggle switches.
The result was a shocker-lantern with a laser sight, in the form of a futuristic blaster. I gave it to my son - he runs, shoots.
Later, I’ll put a voice recording board ordered on Ali for $ 1.5 into the free space, capable of recording a musical fragment such as a laser shot, battle sounds, etc. But this is already
