Homemade soldering iron stand. Convenient stand for soldering iron and soldering. Simple version

Basic and auxiliary options for soldering iron stand

To make the device, you need to use materials that do not heat up much, practically do not conduct heat. A good alternative is to equip your homemade stand with special legs. The minimum functionality of the structure is:

• convenient support for the device warmed up during operation;
• the presence of a container for flux, which ensures the comfort of using a soldering iron.

In addition, you can independently add a number of additional functions, which include:

1. Equipping the stand with a tinning platform.
2. Adjusting the power of the device. It can be performed either smoothly using a thermostat or in steps.
3. Mounting simple fixture to remove solder residues from the tip.
4. Additional solder tank.

How is a do-it-yourself soldering iron stand made? Below are some of the most simple waysfrom which you can choose the most suitable for you.

Stand with third hand attachment

This design allows you to work with the soldering iron as comfortably as possible, without wasting efforts on holding the soldering iron and two parts to be connected at the same time. It is deservedly called the "third hand". To make it, you will need the following materials and accessories at hand:

• two cups from decorative candles;
• leg from old table lamp or a small lamp;
• two crocodile clips;
• a magnifier, which will help you to work with small details much more conveniently;
• a spring clip that you can make with your own hands from ordinary steel wire;
• wooden base.

The first step is to prepare the foundation for the future stand. To do this, we mill three niches in it. The first two will be
used for installing candle cups, and the third for cleaning cloth, removing solder from the soldering iron. After that, all work is performed in the following sequence:

1. We mount the cups in the prepared niches.
2. We mount crocodile clips on a flexible rod from the lamp. It is better to make the distance between them adjustable.
3. We install the spiral holder for the soldering iron in one of the corners of the base.
4. We drill holes and screw the bar with clamps to a wooden stand.
5. If desired, you can attach a magnifying glass to the top of the third hand. Also, very often it is made removable, or installed on a separate bar.

Such a stand does not require significant financial investments, but it makes it easier to work with a soldering iron.

Stand with power regulator

In Chinese online stores, you can order ready-made kits for home soldering stations, which are quickly assembled into a tool power adjustment and monitoring system. You can also make a regulator with your own hands, using components such as:

• a fixed resistor, the nominal value of which is 4.7 ohms (R2 in the diagram);
• variable resistor, through which the power will be adjusted (up to 500 Ohm, R1);
• 0.1 microfarad capacitor (C1);
• dinistor DB3 (VD3);
• triac BTA06-600 (VD4);
• diode 1N4148 (VD1);
• lED that will light up when the power is turned on (VD2).

How to make a soldering iron power regulator out of all this? You will find the answer to this question in the diagram below.

You can make the board yourself. Holes for parts are drilled in it and conductive paths are made.

If you have minimal experience in working with printed circuit boards, making the regulator will not be difficult. You can install it directly on the soldering iron stand. If you plan to use the device at a power higher than 100 W, you will need to use aluminum radiator, which will remove excess heat from the triac.

A soldering iron with a power regulator will allow you to work with small parts and LEDs, provide an opportunity to customize the device to your needs. In addition, it will help reduce the load on the device and extend its life.

The stand itself in this case can be made of a rectangular board or chipboard. A steel plate is screwed onto it with self-tapping screws, curved in the form of an inverted letter "P" with cutouts for installing a soldering iron. Additionally, you can install containers for rosin and solder (all the same cups from decorative candles).

The main tool of a home radio amateur is a soldering iron. Unlike other appliances, it cannot be simply put on a table (workbench) while working. Why? Correctly! He is hot. Therefore, you need a special stand.

There are a lot of different devices on sale, from a simple holder to a whole complex called a soldering station.

In most cases, a soldering iron is needed for urgent renovation works... If you are not a professional "DIY" - the instrument usually gathers dust in a box on the balcony, being born once or twice a year. In such cases, many people use the first item they come across as a stand.

However, with very little effort, a do-it-yourself soldering iron stand will look no worse than a factory one. Especially if you regularly make wiring diagrams.

Required minimum for a stand

1. Stable base. Made of a material that does not conduct heat well, or equipped with legs
2. Soldering iron supports
3. Container for rosin (flux).

Additional options"

1. Tinning area
2. Solder tank
3. Tip cleaner
4. power regulator (can be of two types: smooth regulation, or stepwise limitation for the time of a break in work).

Leafing through old magazines

In old magazines "Radio" you can find drawings of how to make a stand with an economical load switch.

• As a basis ( 1 ) a board with a selected middle is used, or a U-shaped structure made of a strip of plywood and two bars along the long edges
• A 220-volt relay contact group ( 2,4,5 ) with large collector pads. The wiring diagram transfers power either directly or through a diode. The radioelement "cuts off" the halves of the half-cycle of an alternating voltage of 220 volts, reducing it to a value of 110
• Through traction ( 6 ), spring-loaded ( 7 ) button ( 8 ) presses on the contacts when the soldering iron is on the stand. Electricity is spent in half, while the soldering iron heats up almost instantly to full power. The rod is attached to the console ( 9 )
• The tool itself is located on the brackets ( 3 ) and ( 10 )
• At the back is a soldering iron socket connected to the relay output contacts. The power supply wire is connected to the input
• Between the racks, usually a tin can of shoe polish or petroleum jelly was nailed to store the rosin

The design is simple, yet comfortable and effective. If you do not want problems with contacts, we make a simple functional stand. Again, from the experience of Soviet radio amateurs.

The main tool of a home radio amateur is a soldering iron. Unlike other appliances, it cannot be simply put on a table (workbench) while working. Why? Correctly! He is hot. Therefore, you need a special stand.

There are a lot of different devices on sale, from a simple holder to a whole complex called a soldering station.

In most cases, a soldering iron is needed for urgent repairs. If you are not a professional "DIY" - the instrument usually gathers dust in a box on the balcony, being born once or twice a year. In such cases, many people use the first item they come across as a stand.

However, with very little effort, a do-it-yourself soldering iron stand will look no worse than a factory one. Especially if you regularly make wiring diagrams.

Required minimum for a stand

1. Stable base. Made of a material that does not conduct heat well, or equipped with legs
2. Soldering iron supports
3. Container for rosin (flux).

Additional options"

1. Tinning area
2. Solder tank
3. Tip cleaner
4. power regulator (can be of two types: smooth regulation, or stepwise limitation for the time of a break in work).

Leafing through old magazines

In old magazines "Radio" you can find drawings of how to make a stand with an economical load switch.

• As a base (1), a board with a selected middle is used, or a U-shaped structure made of a strip of plywood and two bars along the long edges
• Under the surface, there is a contact group of a 220 volt (2.4.5) relay with large collector pads. The wiring diagram transfers power either directly or through a diode. The radioelement "cuts off" the halves of the half-cycle of an alternating voltage of 220 volts, reducing it to a value of 110
• Through the rod (6), the spring-loaded (7) button (8) presses on the contacts when the soldering iron lies on the stand. Electricity is spent half as much, while the soldering iron heats up almost instantly to full power. The rod is attached to the console (9)
• The tool itself is located on the brackets (3) and (10)
• At the back is a soldering iron socket connected to the relay output contacts. The power supply wire is connected to the input
• Between the racks, usually a tin can of shoe polish or petroleum jelly was nailed to store the rosin

The design is simple, yet comfortable and effective. If you do not want problems with contacts, we make a simple functional stand. Again, from the experience of Soviet radio amateurs.

• We take a piece of plywood or chipboard from old furniture... Cut out a rectangle, process
• From a piece of galvanized steel, cut out a palm-sized workpiece for a dovetail support
• We bend the plate, we get the finished element. By the way - such a detail can already be used as a primitive stand.
• To hold the coil of solder, screw a steel pin into the base
• The third element is the universal trough. Can be used as a tinning table or as a storage for rosin. This completes the construction.

Third hand - work in comfort

During soldering on weight, it becomes necessary to hold two parts and a soldering iron at the same time. This is where the term "third hand" comes from. In the next review homemade stand with such a device. The materials and tools that will be needed for manufacturing are shown in the photo:

Factory-made parts - crocodile clips, decorative candles (or rather cups from them), a flexible leg from an old mini lamp and a spring holder. The donor was a Chinese soldering iron stand with a magnifying glass.

Although you can make such a spiral with your own hands by winding steel wire around a pipe or screwdriver handle. The rest of the blanks are also replaceable, the homemade product is conditionally free, from improvised trash. With a drywall crown, we cut the recesses for the cups from the candles. Two niches for rosin and solder and one niche for cleaning cloth.

IN comfortable spot (not in the center) mount the spiral holder for the soldering iron. Practice has shown that such a scheme is more convenient than the classic soldering iron horn stand. The appliance is inserted in one motion, without fear of falling on the table.

We install aluminum cups in the prepared niches, cut off the edges flush with the board. The use of thin-walled containers justifies itself when working with low-power soldering irons. The less metal, the lower the heat capacity. Thick walls of the solder cup can cool the small tip of the soldering iron when touched. A thin aluminum foil surrounded by wood, on the contrary, retains heat.

We squeeze the "crocodiles" on a flexible bar and fix the "third hand" on the stand. There are designs with a magnifying glass. Experience shows that the soldering iron stand, on which the clamps and magnifier are installed, is inconvenient to work with.

Optimal options

• the magnifier is combined with the "third hand", the soldering iron is separate
• "Third hand" on a stand with a soldering iron, a magnifying glass on a separate pedestal (our version).

The only thing missing is the ability to change temperature conditions work. This is especially true when installing LEDs.

Soldering iron stand and power regulator

The most simple and relatively affordable option, this is the purchase of a Chinese kit soldering station... You will assemble such a KIT yourself, so we will refer it to homemade products.

It can be assembled in a stand body or as a separate device. The convenience of this design is undeniable, but we are considering the least expensive options. There is a 220 volt soldering iron in almost every home, it remains to assemble a power regulator.

Important! Dimers for incandescent lamps can be used, taking into account the power of the soldering iron.

But again you have to buy them. Consider a simple scheme homemade regulator power up to 200 watts.

An autotransformer can be used, but this is a bulky device with low efficiency. Let's leave such "devices" for the Museum of Radio Engineering. Our triac circuit is tiny and economical.

You will need the following items

1. variable resistor (voltage regulator) R1 rated up to 500 Ohm
2. the second part of the divider is a fixed resistor R2 with a nominal value of 4.7 kOhm
3. C1 - 0.1 μF AC capacitor
4. VD1 - diode type 1N4148
5. LED element VD-2 for power indication
6. dinistor series DB3 (on the diagram - VD3)
7. the main element is the BTA06-600 triac, designated as VD4.

The circuit provides continuous operation with a load of 200-300 W. Short-term load up to 500 W.

Self-etched circuit board drawing:

We carefully assemble the board, carefully soldering the legs of the parts. If the contact is broken, uncontrolled voltage surges can be obtained at the output.

The circuit is compact, it can easily fit on the soldering iron stand. With power up to 100 W, no cooling of the triac is required. Bree more load - a small radiator is attached to the case.

After reading the material, you yourself will decide which stand to make. Or watch a visual video tutorial on making a stand with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself soldering iron stand is a sign of good work style Link to main publication

obinstrumente.ru

DIY soldering iron stand

Many offline and online stores sell quite good and quite convenient soldering iron stands, and inexpensively. But if you wish, you can make them yourself.

It will be cheaper, plus you can adapt the stand to your own needs.

There are many ideas for making, so we decided not to limit ourselves to one, but to make a selection of the most interesting, in our opinion, homemade soldering iron stands made by ourselves.

Wire soldering iron stand.

Let's start with the most budgetary, simple and common option. In it, the soldering iron mount is made of thick metal wire in the form of a cone spring and is attached to a wooden or other base.

Instead of wire, you can use thin metal clothes hangers, which are found in almost every home.

Such a stand can be made more convenient if you install additional buns on it, for example, a metal sponge for cleaning a soldering iron, a tin and rosin box or a soldering holder.

Another homemade soldering iron stand can be made of wire, a little less convenient (although this is a matter of taste) and just as easy to manufacture.

Soldering iron stand made of fuses.

Another option is a very easy-to-manufacture and cost-effective stand. The base is made of a wooden block or textolite, on top of it are attached fuse jaws of the required size.

Mobile stand.

Homemade mobile soldering iron stand made of sheet metal obtained from a burnt out power supply from a computer. The stand is primarily intended for people who often solder outside the home. It is quite comfortable and functional, while it easily fits into a bag or even a jacket pocket.

With this stand, you do not have to carry tin, rosin and solder clip separately small parts... Where and what is stored is well shown in the video, we recommend watching.

Well, you can read the manufacturing instructions here.

Do-it-yourself complex soldering iron stands.

Sophisticated multifunctional stands are a matter of taste. Some people like them very much, others prefer simple designsthat we showed above. In any case, complex coasters deserve attention, as they are well made.

We will show only a few of them, the most interesting in our opinion.

The first stand has everything you need for comfortable work, namely, a place for tin and rosin, a clip for soldering small parts, a sponge for cleaning the tip, a built-in regulator, and, well, the actual fasteners for fast but reliable fixation of the soldering iron.

See the manufacturing process here.

Well, two more and no less interesting ideas in video format.

The simplest stand.

If you urgently need a stand for a soldering iron, then making something difficult is not best idea, since haste always leads to hack. It is better to temporarily make a simple design, and then change it to something more worthy.

Most best option, which is done in just a couple of minutes, is a wooden block with four long screws. The soldering iron fits well on it, it is easily pulled out, but at the same time it does not fall out.

samodelki.org

DIY soldering iron stand

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Good day to all lovers of homemade products. every radio amateur or just a beginner in this business knows how to work with a soldering iron, and a stand is needed for its convenient use. It is in this article that I will talk about how to make a homemade budget soldering iron stand.

In order to assemble our stand you will need:

* A sheet of chipboard, 18 mm thick, can be thicker, but it seems to me this is the most optimal thickness. * 4 self-tapping screws 20 mm and 4 smaller bolts. * Coarse sandpaper. * A couple of rubber stoppers from chemical test tubes. * Hacksaw for metal. * Cross screwdriver or screwdriver. * Thin screwdriver, awl will also work. * Pliers. * Iron plate. * Metal mount from the antenna. * A tin from an old receiver that covers the board. * A spring from a pen. * The soldering iron itself for testing. The first step is to sand the already cut sheet of chipboard. We sand thoroughly and give the edges a rounded look. We bring the blank for the stand to this look. The photo shows which workpiece was before grinding, and which after.






Thinking that many commercial stands are so simple that they do not have legs, it was decided to make rubber legs for their stand. We saw the rubber plugs taken from chemical test tubes with a hacksaw for metal, we make their thickness the same using sandpaper, if it was not possible to saw off exactly.

After that, we screw a 20 mm self-tapping screw into each leg.
And in the previously prepared hole we twist the leg with the screw.
We fasten the first leg and fasten the second, third and fourth in the same way. With the legs sorted out, now the stand will not go anywhere and will not scratch the table.



The next thing I did was bent the iron plate into a hook, like in the photo.


Using a small parts screwdriver, I made a hole for two bolts that will hold this hook.

We tighten the bolts, as we see the hook holds well.


Trying on how the soldering iron will sit.
Using pliers, bend off one edge of the hook, it should look something like this.
So, the heating part of the soldering iron is not going anywhere now, so we move on to the back of the soldering iron, or rather to the handle. From the long-lying antenna mount, I decided to make this holder, there are already holes there.
There is also a notch where the soldering iron handle fits well. We fasten this mount with two screws.
And now the soldering place, since we need to take tin from somewhere, for convenience we will make it closer to the tip of the soldering iron. I punched a hole in the plate, which I took out of the radio, and screwed a bolt into it, he securely pressed it to the stand.

Of ballpoint pen, which had just ended, I took off the spring and decided to put it on our hook, first bent one end of it, then made a hole with a screwdriver in the stand board and ran this end of the spring there, and soldered it to the hook at the top. The stand is almost ready, the next thing I did was melt the tin at the soldering point, now, if necessary, you can heat this place and tin the wires there. The final stage was the decor, I glued an old nameplate from an electric shaver to the stand. On this, the home-made stand for the soldering iron is ready, it is more convenient and more comfortable to solder with it, and the rubber feet will not let it jump off the slippery surface and will not scratch the table. All interesting and unusual ideas for new homemade products. Become the author of the site, publish your own articles, descriptions of homemade products with payment per text. More details here.

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usamodelkina.ru

Do-it-yourself budget stand for a soldering iron.

This article, I believe, will be, first of all, useful to those who are just taking their first steps in the world of electronics, but I do not exclude that there will be something in it for radio amateurs with extensive experience.

And so I'll start with a short background. Somehow, I went to our local radio market once again to buy components, and I didn’t see a 25-watt EPSN “Reksant” soldering iron there. He immediately drew my attention to himself. By itself, the idea arose to update your instrument. It has passed more than half a year of its operation from the date of purchase and so far I have no complaints about it. Then the seller also offered a stand for him. But I politely declined, citing lack of funds. Actually, it is an iron casting in the form of a stand. Of the advantages, this is massiveness and a relatively convenient position of the instrument on the table, there is a small tray of arbitrary shape (for which it is not clear). Of the minuses, it is too heavy (in my opinion), the raw surface of the sole easily scratches the table (it can be successfully used instead of a rasp).

Earlier I came across very worthy stands, but their cost was several times higher. I must say that this soldering iron is quite lightweight. It is so light that the power cord always tries to drag it somewhere to the side. Actually, the idea of \u200b\u200bmaking a comfortable stand has visited me several times already, but here I still matured. First of all, I set myself the task, the device should be as cheap as possible, easy to manufacture and convenient, not take up much space on the table and be as functional as possible. I shoveled the Internet, having familiarized myself with what the trade offers today in terms of models, forms and technical solutions. At the same time, I looked for suitable circuits for adjusting the temperature of the soldering iron tip. Actually, for such a low-power soldering iron, adjusting the temperature of the tip is not particularly necessary. But in the future I am going to purchase more powerful soldering irons from this company. He began manufacturing, first of all, from the electronic part, since it would be necessary to dance from its size with the size of the case. A circuit based on the K1182PM1 microcircuit attracted attention. The circuit is taken from the datasheet. The microcircuit is intended mainly for controlling the voltage of incandescent lamps, although the range of its application is much wider.

True, the control scheme was somewhat modified for some reason and purpose. This is the first time I have encountered this microcircuit, and it is difficult to say how much, the correct circuit is from a datasheet with control on a triac. But in this version, the work of the circuit did not suit me, and after some experiments it took the following form.

The triac was added to the circuit for greater reliability of the device, although as they write, the microcircuit can confidently “pull” a load of up to 150 watts. Resistor R2 sets the required minimum temperature of the soldering iron tip. Resistor R3 sets the tip temperature in the “standby” mode. Well, R4, R5 had to be installed paired with a nominal value of 2 × 20 Kom, turning them on in series. There was simply no potentiometer of a suitable design with the required rating. As practice has shown, the maximum resistance of the potentiometer should be 33 - 35 Kom. I drew the board in DipTrace 2.4. I have been using this program for many years, I started with version 1.4. The interface of this program is quite simple and convenient. I tried other tracers too, but I liked this one closer. But here they say the taste and the color ... This time I decided to make the board using the old technique (drawing by hand), since its size is not large. Actually, I didn't want to fool too much with LUT or photoresist on a piece of fiberglass. The board is double-sided and uncomplicated, so it took about 20 minutes to draw the tracks. To do this, I always have in stock markers and a homemade template made of transparent plastic with a “ruler” of holes.

I use SCHOLZ markers and am very happy with them. Once I bought a bunch of markers from different companies, and conducted an etching test on them, this one showed the best result. Edding and Centropen are slightly worse. By the way, it dries almost instantly. Because of this, they have to be stored in the refrigerator in an upright position with the pen down. The seller shared this secret with me.

Recently, I have been etching in a solution of citric acid, hydrogen peroxide and sodium chloride. This recipe, in my opinion, is slightly inferior in etching rate to ferric chloride and persulfates. But the most affordable, cheapest and safest. It is still safe, relatively, since its ingestion is undesirable. There is a risk of poisoning with copper citrate. True, there is a minus, the solution is disposable and cannot be stored for a long time. This is what the electronic part of the device looks like.

A properly assembled circuit works without problems. Before using for the first time, in order to avoid electric smoke and fireworks, it is advisable to check the correct installation. When setting it up, it is better to use an incandescent lamp to visually check the operation of the device.

All elements of the device are influenced by the mains voltage, therefore all safety precautions must be observed. Pay particular attention to the insulation of all electrical circuits.

When I figured out the electronic part, I started making the stand itself. The housing for the electronic part was made of a square tube measuring 60 × 60 mm and a wall thickness of 2 mm. To the top and bottom of the case, I soldered threaded bushings for attaching to the base and attaching the top cover and everything on it. Soldered with POS60 solder, used a mixture of zinc chloride solution and ammonium chloride (ammonia) as a flux. Soldering iron 100 watts and additionally a small gas torch to help speed up the process.

After soldering with such a flux, it is imperative to rinse all soldered parts with water detergent and dry everything well to avoid corrosion of parts in the future.

If you are very sorry for your health, then soldering using active fluxes should be carried out in a ventilated room or in the open air.

As a “gun carriage”, I used a thin-walled pipe with an outer Ø 34 mm and a wall thickness of 1 mm. Air vents are drilled along the pipe on four sides. At the bottom of the pipe, a tube is soldered for attachment to the axle. A stop is also attached to the pipe, which, through the pusher rod, presses on the end stop when the soldering iron is installed in the “gun carriage”. The pipe itself is taken from the giblets of the shock absorber strut passenger car... A conical spiral was installed inside the pipe, which was twisted from galvanized wire Ø 3mm. On the end of the pipe I glued a section of the bicycle tube with a “stocking” from the outside and from the inside. Now the soldering iron is fixed tightly, but not tightly without fear of being accidentally pulled out of the stand. The shelf for replaceable tips is also made of a square tube, cut in the shape of the letter “P” and soldered to the cover of the device. The solder supply unit is attached to it. It is very convenient to use mortar for marking on steel copper sulfate... A solution is applied to the cleaned metal surface with a swab or brush, and after drying, you can start marking. There is no need to take deep risks. For high-quality marking of the centers of future holes, it is convenient to use a center punch with a lens, for example, this one.

The trays were made of thin-walled aluminum pipe, but to save space, I gave them a rectangular shape. I did it very simply, I recalculated the circumference to the required rectangular perimeter. Then I cut a beech block about 25 cm long and gave it a light wedge-shaped shape with roundings. With light blows of the hammer on the bar, the workpiece, resting on the jaws of the vice, is pushed onto the bar and given the required shape. It is necessary to alternately tap the sides. The whole process took me 10 minutes for every detail. Then he sanded and polished the trays.

As a base, I used MDF plates 10 mm thick. This material is easily processed and very cheap, (if the design is repeated, it is possible to use, waterproof laminate for floor coverings). I cut two plates with dimensions of 130 × 60 and 190 × 60 mm. In a smaller plate I cut out windows for trays and, after adjustment, glued them together with Kleiberit 300 glue. This glue is somewhat similar to PVA, but surpasses it in its characteristics, it is mainly used in joinery production. The glue line is transparent and very durable, the time for complete drying is 5 - 6 hours. After that, the surface was putty on the car with putty and, after drying, it was thoroughly sanded. I painted all parts with acrylic auto enamel with the addition of varnish and hardener.

For ease of use, I made a simple solder supply unit, which I looked at on the Internet. But later the exploitation showed its disadvantage. It consisted of periodically pulling the solder out of the tube. It is rather inconvenient to do this with one hand, then I had to invent something. The usual standard feeders did not suit me, it turned out to be too cumbersome. And I wanted simplicity and compactness! I looked on the Internet on this topic, but there is a complete bummer, nothing new and interesting. Here is the folk wisdom that the morning is wiser than the evening! Somehow, in the morning leisurely walking to work and once again, pondering this problem, a thought struck me. I was almost dumbfounded by surprise and surprise that, why hadn't thought of this before. An hour for experiments and the next day I took up the completion of the node. It turned out simple and compact, and most importantly, you can use solder wire with a diameter of 0.4 to 1.5 mm, without any adjustments to the assembly.

The feeder slider is made of a steel tube with an outer Ø 4 mm and an inner Ø 1.6 mm. A trigger from a steel plate 2mm thick is soldered to the tube. He bent the plate in half, then spread the edges in opposite directions and gave the desired shape with a file. The parts were soldered together with PSr solder with a drill. The solder is a thin tube filled with borax powder. Soldered over the flame gas stove and additionally the place of soldering was heated with a mini burner. In the flame of a blowtorch, it would be preferable and faster as I understood later, but for some reason I was too lazy. Places of future connections were previously tinned with the same solder. After the soldered part, I boiled it for 30 minutes in water to remove the borax residues and dried it well. With files, I removed excess solder and made a cut in the tube as shown in the photo. With a drop of solder I fixed a plate in the cut, cut out of the spring contact in the form of a wedge and curved with a crescent.

The thickness of the spring plate was selected experimentally and should be within 0.25 mm. A deep, sharp internal chamfer is made at the rear end of the tube. A similar piece of tube 6 mm long with a chamfer is inserted into the copper tube at the rounding point until it stops. The chamfer is necessary for better passage of the solder wire when threading the assembly. A piece from a plastic tube is also inserted into the rounded part of the copper tube. A return spring with an external Ø 3.8 mm between the plug and the slide. In the tip there is a 4 mm thick rubber gasket with a hole, its task is to stop the wire during the return stroke of the slide. In general, the mechanism works like a ratchet and feeds 2 cm of solder at a time. Using the stand has now become much more convenient. As a result, in financial terms, absolutely nothing was spent on the manufacture of the device (the cost of a microcircuit, a triac and a potentiometer) and a lot of time wasted with pleasure. In addition, for beginner DIYers, I can recommend the following literature: N.I. Makienko "Plumbing" and "Handbook of the plumber" A.V. Lacedaemonic. Any edition, but the latter is still preferable. The first has a lot of fun and useful information to work with measuring tool, marking, processing of metals and other materials by various methods and many other plumbing operations. The second also contains a lot of interesting things for beginners and professionals.

And in conclusion for beginners, not everything works out right away. Therefore, do not be disappointed if something does not work out right away. Over time, the hands become smoother, and the movements more accurate. Experience and knowledge come over the years.

we.easyelectronics.ru

A do-it-yourself soldering iron stand is necessary when working with the tool. Factory devices are mostly not practical and do not have additional functions that make work much easier.

Using something as a stand usually leads to a burnt table surface, clothes damaged by tin and rosin, and burns to your hands.

Working on the knee is rather inconvenient and time-consuming. Time and material investments in the manufacture of the stand are insignificant, the convenience and speed of operation compensate for all efforts in the manufacture of the device.

Basic requirements for stands, determined by operating experience:

• the base must be made of a material that does not conduct heat well;
• racks should not be massive;
• the optimum height of the solder bath is no more than 10 mm;
• the soldering iron should lie on the stand with a slight slope, the tip is raised, the handle is down.

Product dimensions will depend on the power and size of the soldering iron.

Simple stand option

Figure 1. Schematic of a stand for a soldering iron for automatic temperature control.

The most common option, made within an hour. For the base, you can use a line wooden board not less than 15 mm thick. Width and length are determined by the soldering iron model. The wood species does not play a big role. It is desirable that the material is dry.

It is advisable to plan the surfaces or sand them with an emery cloth.

Then, from steel wire with a diameter of 3 - 4 mm, you need to bend two racks. Usually, welding electrodes are used, freeing them from coating and processing with an emery cloth.

The posts are shaped like the letter "M". The front one should be higher, the middle bend is somewhat narrower, but the soldering iron should lie down freely, without fixing. The C-pillar is slightly lower, the bend is wider. The lower ends of the uprights must be sharpened with emery or a file. Then hammer both racks into the board, according to the size of the soldering iron. The tip of the soldering iron must be in the air, and there must be a heating element on the front pillar. If a piece of hard wood is used for the base, it is advisable to drill two holes for the posts with a depth of 4-6 mm and then hammer them.

A tray for flux and solder can be made from an old MBM capacitor of the required size. With a hacksaw for metal, he needs to cut off the bottom at a height of 5-8 mm, and pull it off. The resulting bath must be washed with a solvent or alcohol, degreasing it. After drying, the tray must be fixed on the base, approximately in the middle between the posts. You can use a couple of nails or small screws for fastening. In the absence of a capacitor, a suitable cover from tin can or any other tin tray. The thickness of the tin should be small, otherwise it will be difficult to melt the solder when working with a low-power soldering iron.

The stand is ready to use.

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Power saving stand

The main disadvantage of soldering irons is their long initial heating. When working with circuits, soldering is needed periodically, and the soldering iron must be kept on in the intervals, otherwise the work process will be significantly lengthened.

In addition, the soldering iron overheats, the solder and the tip are oxidized. Simple circuit, installed on a do-it-yourself soldering iron stand, will help maintain the tool at a lower temperature, quickly warm up during use.

For manufacturing you will need:

• diode, the maximum forward current by the power of the soldering iron;
• microswitch with the required current on the contacts;
• socket, cord with plug;

The base for the stand should be several large sizesthan in the previous version. It is advisable to place the socket and microswitch on the side of the soldering iron location.

Figure 2. Schematic of the heating regulator.

A diode must be installed in the socket housing by connecting it to one of the socket sockets, the polarity of the connection is not important. The power cord is connected with one wire to the second socket of the socket, the second to the free input of the diode. The microswitch is connected with normally closed contacts in parallel with the diode.

It is advisable to isolate all connections and the diode with any affordable way... The microswitch must be fixed on the base and a movable bracket must be installed to switch it. The soldering iron lying on the stand should squeeze the arm lever with its weight. The bracket will switch the microswitch, its contacts will open. The soldering iron will be connected to a voltage of 110 V. The power consumed from the network will be halved, and the temperature will drop accordingly.

When the soldering iron is lifted, the bracket will rise, the contacts will close, within a few seconds the soldering iron will warm up to the required temperature.

To control the presence of voltage, a voltage indicator (any available) must be installed in the outlet or on the base.

Usually, when using such a stand, they often forget to turn off the soldering iron at the end of the work.

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Connecting a soldering iron across a bridge

This scheme allows you to somewhat stabilize the operation of the soldering iron in case of voltage drops and surges in the network. Unlike the option described above, instead of one diode, you need to install a diode bridge with a smoothing electrolytic capacitor at the exit. For manufacturing it is necessary:

• four diodes with the required forward current rating;
• electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of 40.0 μF, voltage 350 V or higher;
• two microswitches or a group of normally closed contacts from a relay;
• socket, power cord with plug;
• mains voltage indicator.

For control, you need two pairs of normally closed contacts. You can use two microswitches or contacts from an open type relay. The contacts must be closed with a cover made of dielectric material.

One pair of contacts (Fig. 1) disconnects and connects one of the bridge diodes, the second - a capacitor. In the working position, the power to the soldering iron comes through the bridge and is smoothed by a capacitor, in the non-working position - through one of the bridge diodes.

The design and dimensions of such a stand will depend on the items available. The main elements are the same as in previous versions. You can make a movable bracket for switching contacts from the used relay by removing the core and the winding.

Greetings, Samodelkins!

For this we need the following tools and materials:
1. Scraps of laminate remaining after repair
2. A small piece of 16mm particle board
3. Clamp for polypropylene pipes
4. Electric jigsaw
5. Wood glue
6. Paint in a spray can. The author used black, but then, in a way, regretted choosing such a gloomy dark color. Therefore, it is advised to choose a more fun color.
7. Putty
8. Sandpaper
9. Usb lamp from fix-price store
10.2 crocodile clips
11. A pair of small bolts and nuts for them
12. Copper wire

The author begins work on a homemade product. First, you need to decide what you are going to store in your homemade product. To determine the size of the future product, he compactly folds what will be stored in a homemade organizer in the near future.

At this stage, he also notes the approximate dimensions of the future product.
Now, but more precisely, he makes a drawing of the workpiece. When making a drawing, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the materials used.

Now the author proceeds directly to the manufacture of the organizer. To begin with, he saws laminate and chipboard to size. Super precision is not needed here, but still try to cut as close as possible to 90 degrees. This is the box you should get.

Next, you need to mark what size the supports for the soldering iron holder should be. The indentations should naturally be higher than the walls of the box, and the supports themselves should be of such length that, when lying down, they can easily fit in the box, and in one layer. Now you need to cut a recess for both metal parts. The author does it like this:

After some time, he realizes that this could have been done much easier with a wood crown, and only then cut in half. Well, as they say, a good idea comes to someone else or to ourselves, but with a delay.
Here's what happened in the end. It remains to tighten a couple of screws and you're done.

Now he starts assembling the box itself. It starts from the bottom. In advance makes small indentations for the caps of the screws. Then, in the places of gluing, using sandpaper, removes the entire glossy layer of the laminate. Next - gluing. The author takes a special glue for wood products and glues the wide side walls made of chipboard. When gluing, it is advisable to use clamps. After the glue has dried, it is necessary to fix the entire structure from below with self-tapping screws. Next, check the perpendicularity of the walls. You need to measure the angle between the walls. It should be straight - 90 °.

Everything is fine, let's move on. Now this design has rigidity, so you can glue and screw on the screws at the same time. Here's what happened.

The author made the lid of the box for a thorn-groove connection. It is long and dreary. The author adjusted everything by hand so that it would fit tightly enough into one whole. Then he glues all the details. This will be quite enough, since practically no loads are expected on this part of the organizer.

Then you need sandpaper. It is necessary with its help to sand all possible irregularities and apply putty on the wood. The putty is mainly needed to close the shavings on the ends of the chipboard, well, to hide any jambs that were formed during the manufacture. After the putty hardens, it must be cleaned. All the same sandpaper will come to the rescue.

The next stage is painting.

It is necessary to paint the box to give it a presentation.
Well, the paint is completely dry and here the author would like to add one point. It was necessary to select a more cheerful color so that loved ones would not have a desire to take the box and bury, for example, a hamster in it. Anyway.

Now you can carefully separate the tape from the stand where the hot part of the soldering iron will be. We don't need the smell of burnt paint. If there are sticky marks from the tape, you can try to remove them. Or leave it as it is. After turning on the soldering iron, the adhesive remaining on the stand from the adhesive tape should burn out.

And on the part where the handle will be, we put on our own rubber band from the fasteners for the polypropylene water pipe so that the soldering iron does not slide on the rack.

The very fixing of the soldering iron stand will be very simple. Nuts are glued into the racks and all this is pulled together by bolts with caps to the wall of the box. Here's what happened in the end:

Everything is very simple and practical. If you wish, you can drill several more of the same holes and, if you have more than one soldering iron, then this design feature will be very useful. It will be possible to rearrange the rack under different sizes soldering iron. Now, in the side wall of the box, the author decided to make a pair of clamps. They will be used as a third hand for soldering. To manufacture such a structure, you will need such a miracle of Chinese engineering from the fix-price store.

In the store, it is marketed as a usb lamp for illuminating a laptop keyboard. It can also be used in conjunction with a power bank, or as a night light. As the latter, it suits better, since, to be honest, it shines so-so, but its flexible leg will be useful to us. You will also need a couple of small screws with slotted nuts.