Installation of gutters. Installing gutters: how to properly install the gutter and attach it to the roof. Materials for homemade gutters

Nowadays, traditional metal gutters are increasingly being replaced by modern plastic systems, which are considered more practical and reliable. Although all the previous installation steps are preserved during the installation, much less time and effort is spent on this.

Features of the gutter made of polyvinyl chloride

From a constructive point of view, the plastic drainage system practically does not differ from the metal one. Products manufactured in industrial conditions are equipped with the same set of components intended for arranging horizontal and vertical branches.

The procedure for assembling and installing gutters includes the same number of stages and a similar sequence of operations. In this case, in the course of manufacturing and pVC installations structures it is impossible not to take into account the specifics of the material of manufacture. Polymer-based products usually have a characteristic dimensional instability that depends on temperature fluctuations.

When heated plastic parts their lengthening occurs; cooling helps to return the previous geometric dimensions. Drains that are operated in street conditions will be cooled in winter and heated in summer. As a result, either lengthening or shortening occurs. Try to save linear dimensions polymer products in a stable state are practically useless. You just have to adapt to this phenomenon, taking into account it during the design and installation of gutters.

PVC drainage circuits are equipped with special expansion joints and connectors. With their help, harmlessness to the system as a whole is achieved, the fluctuation in the size of its individual components. Thus, it becomes possible for them to move in one direction or another.

Also, polymers have another important property, which requires mandatory accounting when equipping the roof with plastic gutters (more: ""). The point is that PVC products of a certain length begin to sag and deform if no supports are provided under them. To avoid sagging of sufficiently flexible plastic gutters, special holders are mounted under them with a step of at least 60 cm.

If this is not done, there is a high probability of sagging of the horizontal sections in the gaps between the supports. This phenomenon is usually provoked either by its own weight or by the load from precipitation. As a rule, the places of deflections begin to gradually become overgrown with dirt and accumulate water. With the onset of frost, these areas become especially dangerous, as they can burst from freezing.

How to assemble and install a drainage system

Installation work on the construction of PVC gutters is carried out in a strict sequence of individual operations.

A short list of the operations carried out in this case is as follows:

Drafting a project... Is being developed simple circuit, which takes into account the optimal parameters and the number of main constituent elements drainage system... It is also important to consider the mounting hardware.
Assembly and installation of the water intake... It consists of a gutter and a funnel designed to receive atmospheric precipitation. The water intake part collects them from the roof, directing them along the drainpipes.
Assembling and installing the drainage system... It includes drainpipes, the task of which is to direct water flows to the desired part of the blind area or inside the storm sewer.

The arrangement of gutters always starts from the top, with a downward movement. This implies the primary assembly and installation of the water intake part, to which the downpipes are subsequently attached. In the course of work, it is important to observe the strict sequence of the installation steps. The reason for this scrupulousness lies in the technological specifics of the system and technical features material of manufacture.

When developing a project for arranging a drainage system, it is important to strictly adhere to certain technological requirements: only in this way can a high-quality removal of precipitation from the roof surface be achieved.

In doing so, consider the following:

Optimal gutter shape... On gable roofs, two separate gutters are most often installed. For equipping hipped structures the installation of a gutter of a continuous type, consisting of several parts, is used. Its construction is carried out using corner connecting elements.
Number of risers... Risers of polymer gutters are installed every 12 m. If the gutter, which usually follows the size of the eaves, is longer than 12 m, a pair of risers will be required. The standard water inlet funnels are then supplemented with an expansion funnel.
Feasibility of using compensating funnels... They are usually used in cases where the total length of the gutter exceeds 12 m, or when technical difficulties arise with expansion (usually this is due to the walls of neighboring buildings, if they are located end-to-end). In addition, a continuous drainage system along the perimeter of the roof is often equipped with compensating funnels.
Selection of gutter holders... Installation of downpipes is carried out using hook-shaped brackets of various lengths. The fastening of the long holders is carried out on the battens before the covering is laid. Fixation of short elements on the frontal board can be carried out at any convenient time. Often this is done upon completion of roofing work.
Slope of gutters... This parameter is influenced by the brand of the system used. Manufacturers usually recommend a slope within 2-5 mm, based on 1 linear meter. The arrangement of the slope should be carried out in the direction where the water intake funnel is located. Height-offset brackets are used for these purposes.

It is highly recommended to determine the installation points of the risers at the design stage. At the same time, the visual perception of the exterior composition should not suffer. Most often they are mounted on the corners of the building. Another option for their placement can be a niche created by a bay window or the center of a wall: this is done in cases where the receiving point of the storm sewer system is located there.

If atmospheric water is discharged to the blind area, then the risers must be placed so that the footpaths, ventilation vents and entrances to the basements do not suffer. Design drainage systems for frame buildings - a more difficult task, since it will require the orientation of vertical lines along the supporting frame racks. The same goes for siding buildings.

How to calculate drainage elements

Determination of the required number of elements required for the construction of the drainage system takes into account the characteristics of each specific case. Increasingly, in the construction of private houses, they try to use original structures, which leaves a certain imprint on the calculation of roofing and drainage systems. However, certain calculation templates make the calculations much easier.

There is a very simple scheme for calculating the drainage of a gable roof, where the length of the slopes does not exceed 12 m:

Gutters... Their footage should correspond to the length of the cornices. The linear thermal expansion of these elements will not encounter any obstacles, therefore, the parameters of the expansion expansions in this case can be omitted.
Gutter Connectors... Since the gutters are 3 m long, each 12 m line is equipped with 3 connectors.
Pair of funnels... By the number of gutters.
Brackets... To calculate the number of hooks, it is necessary to divide the length of the cornice into equal parts, not exceeding 60 cm. Before that, you need to indent from the edge by 50 mm.
Additional brackets... Installed at the corner of the building, the funnel is equipped with another additional holder. If the funnel is located in the center of the wall, two such holders are required.
Two pairs of gutter plugs... Each branch has two stubs.
Upper and lower knees, 2 pcs. Outlets of risers are constructed from them.
Two short pipesto connect the knees. They are used if the eaves overhangs exceed the parameter of 25 cm. Pipe sections are measured and cut at the installation site. If the width of the eaves is less than 25 cm, the knees are joined directly to each other.
Pipes for risers... To determine their length, the distance from the eaves to the ground is measured. At the same time, the length of the drainage outlet and drain is subtracted. The ground surface and the riser must be separated by at least 20 cm.
Mounting brackets... Two of them are required: one - on the lower knee, the second - on the drain of the riser. Each connection of the drainage system is made out with the rest of the fasteners, with a step of at least 150 cm. See also: "".

To calculate the drainage scheme of a house with an attic, use the same method. The same applies to equipping multi-tiered pitched roofs with gutters, where each slope is calculated separately. To determine the number of elements and fasteners for a half-hip and hip roof, you will have to face additional difficulties. In this case, you will need to purchase at least four corner pieces and two expansion joints. Compensating and connectors function on the same principle as linear elements. However, in this case, such expansion joints must be installed in each closed loop.

At the same stage, it is necessary to determine the diameter of the future structure. Components for gutters are produced in a number of standard sizes, in order to avoid overflow during the drainage of atmospheric precipitation. According to the technical recommendations, each m2 of the roof should be equipped with downpipes with a cross section of 1.5 cm square. This coefficient is averaged for the central regions of our country. In order to accurately select the standard size of the drainage system, the first step is to determine how much roof area one funnel can serve. Since private houses rarely have a slope area of \u200b\u200bmore than 80 m2, then most often pipes with a cross section of 100 mm are used to install gutters, with the possibility of adjusting this parameter in one direction or another.

Installation of gutters, gutters and pipes for example

For ease of understanding, it is better to disassemble a specific example in which the gutter is mounted on long metal brackets after laying the roofing material. Thanks to the use of cement tiles, it is possible to dismantle the lower laying row.

In our case, the installation of the gutters of the gutter system will be carried out on two separate slopes 12 m long. The gable overhangs in this example will be 50 cm wide.The funnel is mounted so that the riser attached to it is 10 cm from the corner.

First, the long brackets are fixed:

Performing preliminary fitting, with the attachment of the extreme holder to the installation site.
Bend line drawing. In this case, the roof covering should go into the gutter by about 1/3. Once the required point is found, the leg of the bracket is tagged.
Determination of the slope in relation to the funnel. If necessary, the slope of each meter of the cornice by 3 mm, the total height is determined by multiplying 3 mm by 12. The resulting parameter 36 mm shows the difference in the height of the bends on the extreme hooks.
Bending line drawing. This is done by laying out the required number of brackets in one line, with an oblique line drawn on their legs.
Numbering of marked brackets.
Bending of the gutter holders. The easiest option is to use a vise. Work must be done carefully to avoid damage to the anti-corrosion layer.
Fastening the two outer holders to the surface of the crate.
Stretch one or two control lines between them. One of them is used to indicate the bottom, the second indicates the top points.
Installation of the rest of the brackets on the stretched lines.

This stage is the most difficult. Next, a gutter and a funnel are prepared for installation. For this, the fitting of that section of the gutter is carried out, on which the riser will be fastened by means of a funnel. To determine the exact place for making the hole for the funnel, she puts it over the gutter.

After the outline of the funnel is outlined with a marker, the niche is cut out with a hacksaw, followed by cleaning the cut edges with sandpaper. To fix the funnel to the chute, special snap-on sides are provided.

We build a drainage riser

First you need to assemble the transition between the horizontal and vertical sections of the drainage system. In the presence of narrow cornices, it is enough to connect the upper and lower elbows.

Wide cornices will require additional work:

Glue connection of the funnel branch pipe with the upper elbow.
Additional fitting. It is carried out by applying the lower knee to the installation site. Use a ruler to determine the distance between the knees.
To calculate the total length of the connecting section, add the distance between the knees, the height of the upper bend pipe and the height of the opposite part of the lower bend.
Cutting and stripping material.
Transition assembly. It is important to mark the point where the upper clamp fits. After that, the adapter is disassembled again to install the clamp. When final assembly of the clamp, all its parts are smeared with glue.
Marking the points of the riser clamps. To connect polymer downpipes, couplings are used, each of which is equipped with a separate clamp.
Docking of the riser elements. In this case, you need to move from top to bottom. When installing couplings, 10-15 mm are left inside the sockets for expansion.
Tightening the clamps. This should not be done very tightly - the pipes should be able to move.
Installation of a drain on the down pipe. To do this, use waterproof glue.

When draining rainwater inside the storm sewer, the riser may not be equipped with a drain. In this scheme, the pipe is simply left above the sewerage water intake at a distance of 50-100 mm. To prevent the system from clogging, the gutters at the top are covered with gratings. There is also an option with the installation of protective nets on the funnels.

Rainwater and melt water can cause significant damage to the site and the foundation of the house. Therefore, on the territory suburban area it is necessary to take care of the installation of the storm sewer, the house part of which is the drainage system, which plays a major role in protecting the foundation and walls of the house from water erosion.

The drain is a system of funnels and gutters, as well as vertical downpipes, the purpose of which is to collect and drain atmospheric water from house roofs.

Drainage systems are divided into 2 main types, differing in the place where the drainpipes pass.

Suitable for regions with very cold winters, as well as for buildings with a flat roof. In the case of using such a drain, a slope of 1-2% is made on the roof, at the lowest point of which there is a drainage funnel connected to a storm drain passing through the building. The riser is connected to a branch that carries water into the collector. Such a drainage system removes atmospheric moisture into the storm sewer.

Note! The downpipe must not be burnt close to the outer wall of the building to prevent moisture from freezing in the pipe.

Sloped roofs equip external drainage system, which includes gutters connected by funnels with drain pipes, passing into a drain outlet that removes water from the building. The outlet can be connected to the rainwater system of the site.

Whatever the type of drain, its design and installation is carried out before the end of the construction of the house. It is a mistake to believe that the installation of an external drainage system can be carried out after the completion of the installation of the roof.

Drafting a drainage system

For private houses, the most common is the outdoor drainage system. It is simpler and not so difficult to assemble with your own hands. However, its installation is preceded by design. When drawing up a project, it is necessary to take into account the type and area of \u200b\u200bthe roof, the material of the roof, the financial capabilities of the owner, as well as appearance houses.

These indicators are important not only to determine the amount of necessary elements of the drainage system, but also the material from which they are made.

In addition to the choice of material, at the design stage it is necessary to determine the number of structural elements and the scheme of the drainage system. It depends on the roof configuration and the length of its overhang:

each slope must be equipped with a gutter;
if the overhang length does not exceed 10 m, then one drainpipe at the end of each gutter is sufficient;
with a longer overhang, the gutter should have a gutter at each end.

Based on this data, a diagram is drawn up on paper that reflects all the elements of the drain on your home.

Materials and tools

After you make a drawing of your house with the future drainage system, you can start purchasing materials and preparing the necessary tools.

Depending on the configuration of the dimensions of the house and roof, you may need the following items:

gutters, which can be semicircular, rectangular and trapezoidal in cross section;
outside and inside corners for gutters;
connecting locks;
stubs;
funnels;
pipes for gutters;
swivel elbows for downpipes;
drain outlet;
clamps for fastening the drain (at least 1 for every 200 cm of pipe);
hooks for mounting gutters (1 for every 60 cm of plastic or 80 cm of metal gutters).

Note! If the roof area is less than 80 m2 , then the diameter of the pipes can be 10 cm, for a house up to 150 m2 it is necessary to purchase pipes with a cross section of 14 cm.

For a comfortable and properly performed work, you will need tools such as:

building level;
measuring tape and a simple pencil;
hacksaw, knife with a sharp end and a blade
hammer with rubber and metal striker;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws.

And don't forget to prepare a secure ladder.

Installation of a drain. Step-by-step instruction

The installation of the gutter system starts from the highest point.

Step 1 . The first step is to prepare the fasteners for the gutters or mark their future location. This stage, like the installation of the fasteners itself, occurs before the installation of the roof. Fasteners can be mounted to a headboard or rafter.

In the first case, simple metal brackets can be used. The places of their installation are marked on the frontal board in order to maintain the required slope of 2-3 mm for each meter of the gutter.

For fastening to the rafters, metal brackets equipped with extension cords are used. To do this, the angle of inclination is marked on the mounts themselves, and the bracket extensions are bent at the mark.

Step 2.Attach brackets to selected locations. In this case, the first and last hooks are mounted at a distance of 0.15 m from the edge of the house. Before installing the hooks to the frontal board, you mentally need to extend the roof. It should be a quarter meter from it to the outer edge of the gutter. Taking this into account, determine the place of attachment of the first fastener.

When installing the hook on the rafter, a groove must be prepared under it so that the fasteners are flush mounted.

Step 3. At this stage, they begin to prepare the gutters. If there are no holes in the gutters for funnels or a direct joint with the downpipe, then they are cut out with a hacksaw. Funnels are inserted into the prepared holes. Plastic funnels are fixed with glue, and metal funnels - with special clamps. PVC gutters can be connected to each other with locks, and plugs can be installed at the ends even before installation to the house.

Step 4. The gutters, individually or an already assembled plastic structure, are installed on hooks, fixing with fixing elements.

Step 5. Clamps on pins are attached to the wall of the house at the place of installation of the drain, which remove the pipe from the wall by at least 30 mm to protect the house from moisture.

Step 6. A connecting elbow is attached to each funnel, and an already assembled drainpipe is attached to it. In the lower part of the drain, a drain is installed, which must rise above the ground by at least 0.3 m.

Step 7. Fix the pipe to the wall with clamps.

The installation of the drain is completed.

Video - The process of installing a drain

The outlet drain can be connected to the storm sewer, this is especially true for areas with abundant rainfall. A simpler option is to collect wastewater into a container with further use atmospheric water for irrigation. You can directly lead the pipe to the plantings, but the exit should be no closer than one and a half meters from the foundation of the building.

Ensuring a good drainage of liquid from the roof is a very important part of building a house. We propose to consider how the correct installation of gutters on the roof with your own hands is carried out, step-by-step instructions and installation diagrams, as well as the price of parts.

Information on drainage systems

Installation of a drain in a country house or at home should be carried out using a special technology, it depends on the material from which the gutter is made. If plastic is used for the barillet material, then it must be cut with a special nozzle for a grinder, so you can do the job as accurately as possible. After cutting with a file, it is necessary to clean the cutting areas. In the event that your gutter consists of metal parts, it must be cut with special scissors, and at the end of the work, grease the metal with a primer and paint for outdoor use.

Photo - Drainage scheme

Self-installation of the gutter includes the following stages:

Project evaluation and planning. Before installing gutters, you need to carefully check the surface of the building. Examine the panel and spotlights for signs of rotted wood, broken planks, rusty planks and panels. In order to ensure a thorough viewing, you need to remove all decorative elements, crowns and protective grilles.

Photo - Conclusion of the drain.

Its development. Draw a sketch and measure the house. The photo shows an approximate drainage system diagram for a typical gable roof house. Record the length of the system and mark the location of the downspout. After that, you need to calculate the number of internal and outer corners and stubs (note whether they are right or left-terminated). Measure the height of the downpipes and add a 1 meter gutter to install the junction at the ground. On residential buildings, three elbows must be used at the barille. There are two types of elbows. Most rigs only need the front elbows, but sometimes sloping roof you need to work out the lateral elbow.

Here some planning tips:

Before starting work, you need to find suitable profile gutters. It can be a circle, semicircle, or rectangle. Experts advise using a semicircle for gutters on the roof, and a circle for organizing water flow.
Mark on the drawing where you will place the roof gutters. If the exterior is very important for you, then you can arrange built-in gutters on the roof. Tip: the easiest way is to mount pipes in a hinged way.
Calculate the angle of inclination of the drain, the norms depend on its material, especially if you are installing high drains.

Video: installation diagram of the drainage system

Step-by-step instruction

Gutter manufacturing

Cut the barillet of the selected profile to reduce the length. Bend the gutters, cut out the bottom. It is much more convenient to collect individual parts of the drainage system on the ground than using hanging devices. All knees must be secured with a sealant, the seam must be at least 5 centimeters, this will help minimize the likelihood of breaking the downpipe. In the photo you can see how to fix the corner structures.

Photo - Gutter elbows

Many installers also cover the joints special composition, which increases the corrosion resistance of the metal.

In places where the gutter ends, it must be reduced by about 2-5 centimeters, this is necessary to ensure maximum drainage pressure. Then attach an end cap with rivets to the gutter and connect it from the inside to the gutter system using a sealant.

Photo - Components of the drain

Add downpipes and linings (gutters)

Mark the position of the center of the downspout rosette at the bottom of the gutter. After that, cut a V-shaped section on the pipe, and use a flange to strengthen the hole, then install the socket. The same action must be done in each pipe where the outlet is planned.

This is followed by setting the slope

The amount and size of the gutter determines how quickly the gutters will drain the water. If you do not equip the slope, then water will stagnate in some areas, leading to the formation of corrosion. The slope is 0.7-0.9 mm for every 3 meters of the system. If the front boards of the house are on the same level, you can use them as the base for the sloped gutters. Check this by holding a level against the bottom edge. If they are not at the same level, then you will need to adjust the slope line until it matches the desired value.

Photo - Drain funnel

Mount spotlights

To prevent water from flowing under the edges of the roof, you need to install spotlights. The cheapest guards are made from plastic and siding, the most durable and durable from aluminum.

Add hidden brackets

Install hangers every 60 centimeters to support the drain and strengthen the front edge of the structure. To do this, use a drill to make a hole, then use construction screws to fix the awnings. You may need swivel devices to mount track barillettes.

Attach the gutter barilletes

Now the elbow is installed to the outlet. Leave 5-7 centimeters on each side of the pipe as a safety net. After installation, use a hacksaw to remove the unnecessary pipe section.

Photo - Connection of gutters

After graduation installation works, with the help of plastic grates, it is necessary to protect the open places of the pipes from leaves, dust and other contaminants. If you have hidden gutters, then you can cover the installation sites with soft shingles. The same technology is used for sidewalk drains.

In addition to the installation of gratings, the installation of heaters is carried out. They are necessary to protect gutters from damage due to temperature extremes, and if water freezes in the pipe, then the gutter's performance deteriorates significantly. For heating, power cables are used, which are mounted over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe drain. Such an anti-icing system is also used for organizing water supply, heating metal tiles and other roof coatings in winter.

Photo - Gutter protection

Rules for installing metal gutters:

Fasteners must be fastened to wooden rafter legs with a distance of 50 centimeters (an error of 10% is allowed).
We begin laying the gutters from the funnel (the final details of the drainage systems). They can be connected together with glue, sealant, ventilation couplings;
Water, when drained from the roof, must fall into the center of the gutters. This is the main secret of professional craftsmen;
If you need to remove liquid from the under-roof space, then you will need to install a drip. It is mounted on the rafters, covered with waterproofing.

The technology of installation and location of gutters on the roof depends entirely on the material used. Once every six months, clean the gutters from dirt and leaves, wipe the attachment points with an anti-corrosion compound. Every year, a complete restoration of the system is carried out: painting, checking, if necessary, welding the seams.

Photo - Contaminated gutters

Price overview

Installing simple gutters with your own hands is quite easy, but if you do not have the proper experience, then it is better to seek help from specialists. We propose to consider what the cost of installing gutters in different cities of the CIS is (the price list is taken from the websites of the most popular companies in Russia):

Photo - A drain around the perimeter of the house

The most popular brands of rectangular and round gutters for country houses: Devi, EKAROS P.V.M. AS, Flamingo, Murol. They are sold in dealerships and partner stores. The same brands are often used for roof windows... It is better to buy drainpipes in bulk, the delivery is carried out at the expense of the selling company.

A properly executed roof reliably protects the building from moisture penetration into a residential attic or a cold attic. Flowing down its slopes, water can fall on the walls and foundation of the building. To prevent this, the roofing system must be supplemented with an effective drainage system. To ensure the normal operation of such a system, it must be correctly calculated and installed. All this can be done independently, but first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology for performing work and the recommendations of specialists.

How to properly install roof gutters

Before you start installing the drainage system, you need to decide whether you will buy industrial gutters or make them yourself. If you have certain skills, then all the elements of the drainage system can be made by yourself. For this, galvanized steel is usually used. But they resort to this method quite rarely, since in addition to certain abilities and experience, it will require a significant investment of time and labor. It is much easier to buy finished products and install them yourself.

According to the material of manufacture, drainage systems are divided into two types.

Plastic gutter system. Its elements can be connected with glue or rubber seals. The plastic does not corrode, is lightweight, easy to install, and available in a wide variety of colors. Its disadvantages are that the mechanical strength is not very high, damaged plastic elements cannot be repaired, and if the connection is made using rubber parts, then they will need to be changed periodically.
Plastic gutter systems are widely used due to their resistance to corrosion, light weight and ease of installation.
Metal drainage system. For its manufacture, galvanized steel is usually used, which can be coated with polymer, much less often gutters are made of copper. Elements of such a system are highly durable, they can withstand heavy loads and have a low coefficient of expansion. The disadvantages of such a system are its high cost, heavy weight and complexity of installation. If the protective polymer layer is damaged, rust begins to appear. In addition, metal products are presented in much fewer colors.
A metal gutter system is heavier than a plastic one, but it has a longer service life.

This is not to say that this or that drainage system is better, it all depends on the operating conditions and the region in which the building is located. The plastic system has a large number of various elements, so it is more convenient to use it when creating a system of complex configuration. Metal gutters look nice, last a long time, but their installation is more difficult.

It is easier to install the drainage system before laying the roofing material.For the correct implementation of this work, you must adhere to the following recommendations.

The installation must be carried out at a certain temperature depending on the material:
- plastic elements - more than 5 o C;
- metal products coated with plastisol or ceramic granules - more than 10 o C;
- metal treated with pural - 5 o C and above.
The gutter must be installed with a slope relative to the roof. It can be organized in one (with a roof length of less than 12 m) or in two directions. The standard slope should be 3–5 mm per 1 m of length towards the inlet. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain a distance between rainwater inlets no more than 24 m.
If the length of the building is less than 12 m, then the slope of the gutters can be made in one direction, otherwise it is necessary to mount the gutters with an inclination from the center of the wall to each of its corners
The holders must be at the same distance from each other. For a plastic drain, the fasteners are installed after a maximum of 50 cm, and for a metal one - after 60 cm. The holders begin to be installed from the top point and gradually move to the bottom.
The gutter should be positioned so that the edge of the roof protrudes 35–50% of its width.
The edge of the gutter must be at least 3 cm below the plane of the roof, otherwise it can be ripped off during the snow sliding
It is possible to cut gutter elements only in the way recommended by the manufacturer. Plastic elements are cut with a hacksaw with fine teeth, metal elements - with a hacksaw for metal. The grinder cannot be used for products with a polymer coating, since during its operation intense heating and destruction of the coating occurs.
In no case should you cut a polymer-coated gutter with a grinder
Holders of drain pipes should be installed at least every 2 m, and at a house height of more than 10 m - every 1.5 m.
It is necessary to connect the elements correctly and securely. Plastic parts are joined with glue, rubber seals and latches. Metal elements can be attached to each other with latches or rubber seals. The drain pipe should not reach the ground by 25-40 cm.
When connecting the gutters between them, it is necessary to leave an expansion gap for thermal expansion of the material.

Installing gutters with your own hands

By doing self installation the drainage system will need the following set of tools:

Usually the installation of the gutter system is carried out during the construction of the building, before the installation of the roofing material. Let's consider the sequence of these works in more detail.

Fastening the brackets observing the slope and the step of their installation.
Installation of funnels. These elements are located in those places where drain pipes are installed. Funnels are also used to connect plastic gutters. In the place of the gutter, where the funnel will be attached to it, a hole is made and the edges are well cleaned. Glue is used to fix the funnels. To prevent debris from entering the drain pipe, a protective mesh is installed on the funnel, which must be periodically cleaned of debris.
It is imperative to install a protective mesh on the funnel, otherwise the drain pipe will be clogged with debris
Installation of gutters. These elements can be semicircular or rectangular. The brackets are selected depending on the shape of the gutters, after which they are simply put on the ready-made fasteners. The edge of the drain that is not in use must be closed with a plug, its tightness is ensured by a rubber seal. It is recommended to install brackets on both sides of the connection to avoid sagging of the gutter system.
Depending on the type of gutter, the type of bracket is selected
Gutter connection. In order to connect two gutters together, special additional elements are used, which are put on the ends of adjacent gutters. A distance of about 3-5 mm should remain between the grooves, it is necessary to ensure possible deformations of the elements. This is especially important for plastic parts, since they have a large coefficient of expansion.
Installation of knees. Elbows, as well as gutters, can have a semicircular or rectangular shape and are selected in accordance with the shape installed gutters... The knee is put on the funnel from below, it will direct the water into the drain pipe. It is necessary to choose the required knee angle, although there are usually no problems with this, since the choice of such elements is quite large.
If the length of the elbow is not enough, then an additional piece of pipe is installed between it and the drain pipe
Installation of risers. The elbow is connected to the riser pipe and is fixed with clamps to the brackets installed on the wall of the building. If one pipe is not enough, it is lengthened, for which one or more elements of the required length are attached.
The maximum distance between the riser mounts cannot exceed 2 m
Installation of clamps. Typically, these elements are made in the form of two arcs that cover the pipe, after which they are fixed with bolts. For attaching the clamp to wooden wall a pin is used, and a dowel is used for the brick, for which a hole is previously made.
Clamps consist of two arcs that cover the pipe and tighten it with clamps
Plumbing installation. This element is final, in its appearance it looks like a knee. The drain is mounted at the very bottom of the pipe, with its help the incoming water will be diverted from the foundation of the building. It is recommended that the distance from the edge of the drain to the blind area is no more than 40 cm.

Video: installing gutters

Ebb installation

Correct installation of window sills is of great importance for protecting the house from moisture. These are metal or plastic slats that are mounted from the outside of the house to the lower part of the window opening.

Ebbs are made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating or plastic

Each window must have an ebb, which is also popularly called the outer window sill. In addition to protecting the walls from moisture penetration, they also give the house a beautiful and complete look.

The ebb installation sequence consists of several steps.

Carrying out measurements and determining the required size of the low tide. For the manufacture of ebbs, galvanized steel is used, it can also have a polymer coating or plastic. Such an element should have a fold corresponding to the shape of the window near which it is installed, as well as folds on the sides and bottom. The low tide should protrude 3-5 cm beyond the wall and be inclined towards the street in order to ensure free flow of water along the lower drip chamber. In order for the water to drain well and quickly, the slope should be about 10 o.
The length of the ebb is standard, and its width is selected for each window sill separately
Cleaning the installation site from debris.
Fixing the ebb with self-tapping screws to the lower profile of the window.
For reliable fixation of the ebb, the screws are installed in increments of 40–45 cm
Filling the space between the window sill and the ebb polyurethane foam, which, after curing, firmly fixes this element, and also provides reliable noise and heat insulation. During hardening, the ebb must be pressed with a heavy object so that the expanding foam does not lift it during the hardening process.
The ebb should be tilted away from the window so that water can drain well from it
Sealing the junction of the low tide and window frame using silicone sealant.

During the installation of the ebb tide, it is necessary to ensure that its side bends go under the slopes so that water does not fall on the wall. It is recommended to install ebb tides before external slopes are formed.

How to properly attach the gutter hooks

Before proceeding to fixing the hooks, it is necessary to make markings to ensure the angle of inclination of the gutter system. Due to the slope, water will flow towards the riser and be effectively removed from the roof.

Attaching long hooks

Installation of hooks under the gutters is carried out before laying the roofing material. This is due to the fact that they are installed under the roof and after it has been laid, long hooks cannot be fixed.

The installation sequence for long hooks will be as follows.

If only short hooks are available, then there is no big deal. Their installation is carried out in the same way, but if in the first case the hooks were attached to the crate or rafters, then here they are fixed to the end plane or to the cornice board.

Short hooks can be installed after the roofing material has been laid

Short hooks are usually installed after the roof has been installed. Universal holders can also be used, which can be attached as either short or long hooks if required.

Video: features of mounting hooks

Common mistakes

If you carelessly approach the design and installation of the drainage system, you can make certain mistakes, because of which it will not be able to fully perform its functions:

horizontal installation of gutters leads to the fact that water remains in the gutter, and in winter period it freezes there;
a large release of roofing material above the gutter and leads to the fact that during heavy rainfall, water does not enter the catchment;
placing the drain pipe too close to the wall of the house causes the wall to constantly get wet;
an insufficient number of brackets leads to a sagging of the gutter, due to which water accumulates in this place;
poor-quality assembly violates the tightness of the structure, so water gets on the walls.

Installation of internal gutters

The structure of the internal drainage system includes the following main elements:

water intake funnel;
riser;
branch pipe;
release.

In order for this system to work at any time of the year, water intake funnels must not be installed next to the outer walls of the house, otherwise they will freeze in winter.

The installation of the internal drain is carried out in a certain sequence.

Installation of funnels. If the floor slabs are already installed, then funnels can be installed. If there is no overlap yet, then you need to start with the installation of risers. The funnel is connected to the riser by means of a compensating socket, so that the connection does not break with external deformations.
The internal drainage system is usually equipped on flat roofswhere there is no natural drainage of water due to the slope of the slopes
Installation of risers and pipes for draining water from funnels. Pipes connecting funnels and risers must be laid with a slope. The diameter of the riser must be equal to or greater than the diameter of the funnel. If the diameter of the pipes is not more than 110 mm, then they go in coils and run from top to bottom. When large sizes pipes are installed from bottom to top. The uprights are fixed every 2-3 meters.
Indoor gutters should be fixed at a maximum every 3 m
Laying horizontal pipelines. Their installation is carried out in the same way as for sewer pipes, but the slope is made about 2-8 mm per meter. For pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, the cleaners are installed after 10 m, and if their diameter is 100-150 mm, then after 15 m.
Horizontal pipes of the internal drain are mounted in the same way as sewer pipes, but with a smaller slope.

Internal drainage systems can be of the following types:

gravity - collection and drainage of water is carried out along troughs located with a slope. Such a system is only partially filled with water;
siphon - completely filled with water, which enters the funnel, and then into the riser. Due to the resulting vacuum, the forced removal of water occurs, so this method is more effective.

Video: how the installation of the intake funnel is performed

The system for external drainage of water from the roof can be:

disorganized. In this case, the water comes off arbitrarily, this method is usually used for small outbuildings;
organized. Water is collected in gutters, after which it is discharged through drain pipes outside the building.

When creating an external gutter, the gutters are attached using special brackets, which you can make yourself, but it is better to purchase ready-made ones.

When creating an external gutter, the gutters should be mounted at a slope, this will ensure effective drainage of the water coming from the roof. It is not difficult to create an external drainage system with your own hands. All the necessary items are now on sale. It is enough to draw up a diagram and calculate how many and what elements are needed, after which you can simply and quickly install them.

It is quite possible to mount an external drainage system with your own hands, because all the necessary components are on sale to facilitate this process.

Installation of the outdoor drainage system is carried out in the following order.

Calculation of the required amount of materials. You need to decide on the number of holders, gutters, drain pipes and elbows.
Marking of places for fastening hooks. After the attachment points are marked, the hooks are bent to the required angle and their fixation.
Preparation of places for funnels. Holes for funnels are prepared in the grooves, after which they are fixed.
During installation, all connections must be made tight so that water from pipes and gutters does not fall on the walls of the house
Laying gutters. The gutters with installed funnels are placed in holders and fixed.
Installation of drain pipes. They are attached to the wall using special brackets.
Connection of drain pipes and funnels. Using the knees with required angle slope, the drain pipe and funnel are connected.
For the funnel, a hole is made in the gutter, the edges of which are well cleaned to obtain an airtight connection

A properly executed external drainage system reliably protects the roof, walls and foundation of the building from water penetration into them. During the cold season, during frequent thaws, the drain pipes of the gutters can freeze, so the water will not be efficiently removed. To avoid such a problem, you can install heating of these elements. For this, a self-regulating or resistive cable is used, which is attached to gutters and pipes. Passing through the cable electricity causes it to heat up, as a result of which the elements of the drainage system remain warm, so the water in them does not freeze.

Video: heating gutters and drain pipes

The main requirements for the drainage system are the removal of water from the roof of the house, as well as high strength, tightness and long service life. It is necessary to reckon that such a system can withstand heavy loads; in winter, a large amount of ice can accumulate on it. In order for a self-installed system to meet all the requirements, it is necessary to correctly calculate it, and then carry out the installation in compliance with the developed technologies.

The drainage system of a house is a rather serious structure, which requires accurate calculation and competent installation, where special attention is paid to fastening the elements. The very drainage of water from the roof of the house consists of two sections - horizontal and vertical. The first consists of gutters (trays) that are installed along the edges of the roofing material. It is in them that water flows from the roof in the form of rain or melted snow. The second is vertical pipes connected to the trays with a funnel. Through them, water is discharged either into the ground away from the foundation of the house, or into the storm sewer. Usually the gutter fixing is started before the roof is covered. roofing material ... But sometimes the installation is carried out after covering the roof, for example, when the old drain has become unusable during long-term operation and is replaced with a new one. In two cases, the installation is done differently. And the difference is in the mount.

Types of fasteners for gutters

As for mounting and securing trays, brackets in the form of hooks are used for this. There are a huge number of different modifications, but they are all divided into two large groups: long and short. The first ones are designed for attaching the gutter to the roof, namely to the crate or rafter legs. The second to the frontal board. By the way, it is the latter that are used when the roof is already covered with roofing material.

Today, manufacturers of oriental systems offer universal mounting brackets, the leg of which consists of two plates with a through groove. Both parts are connected by a bolt and a nut through a groove. That is, relative to this bolt, you can make a decrease or increase in the length of the leg. When the required length is reached, the bolt is clamped, which leads to fixing the length.

Hooks with a leg length are also used for roofs already covered with roofing material. True, in this case, they are not attached to the rafters or elements of the crate, but to the filing of the eaves. This option does not fit into the recommendations for the construction of drainage systems. And the appearance of the cornice filing is clearly reduced in presentability. But sometimes this is the only and rational way to fix the gutters.

There are other fasteners for gutters of drainage systems, which represent the same hook, only there are other mounting elements in their design. One of these is a bracket, the leg of which is rotated 90 ° relative to the hook. This model is usually used if the roofing material is already lying on rafter system, and it will have to be fixed to the rafter leg, or rather to its side end. Most often this variety belongs to the "long" group. It is necessary to fasten the hook to the rafter with at least two self-tapping screws. The only requirement for this variety is that it can be used if the rafter legs have a sufficient section, for example, 150x50 or 120x50 mm.

Rules for fixing drainage elements

The simplest process of fixing a drainage system is associated with the installation of vertical pipes. For this, special clamps made of metal or plastic are used. A purely structural fastener for pipes is a clamp with a stand or a leg. The latter are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws on plastic dowels. At the installation site of the fasteners, it is necessary to drill holes with a drill or a punch, insert dowels into them, attach a clamp and fasten it with one or two self-tapping screws. The connection turns out to be reliable.

The choice of clamps depends on how the gutter will run through the house. Most often, pipes are carried directly along the wall with a snug fit to its plane. For this, short clamps are used, which are attached to the wall through a rounded plane or through a short stand. If there are protrusions in the architecture of the building, then sometimes it is necessary to carry out the installation at a short distance from the surface of the walls. For this, fasteners on the legs are used.

Attention! Fastening the gutter to the wall is the easiest step in assembling the entire system. But it is carried out last, that is, after the assembly of the horizontal tray part.

Mount to the frontal board

A frontal or wind board is installed at the ends of the rafter legs. It protects the space between these roof elements from wind, dust, birds and insects. Fastening the gutter to this board is the easiest way to install them. The board is in plain sight, the approach to it is not limited by anything, so there should be no problems.

In this case, both long and short brackets can be used to fasten the gutters. The former are used if the width of the board is sufficient to accommodate the mounting legs of the hooks. Short models are used more often. A practical example is shown in the photo below:

As for the modifications of the "short" ones, manufacturers today offer several positions that differ from each other by the mounting bar. In this regard, plastic models are represented by a wider list than metal ones. The latter are usually standard structures made of steel strip. But there are also special metal structures on the market, which are a hook with a small stand, in which there are no mounting holes. That is, the bracket itself is not attached to the frontal board. A metal bus is fixed to it, into which they are inserted. On this bus, the hooks can be moved along the eaves, setting them at the required distance from each other.

This option is convenient in that the tire itself is easier to install at a certain angle than to do it with each element separately. After all, the drain is a gravity system. This means that it must be installed with an inclination angle of 2-7 °. At the same time, the joint of the bracket bus is quite strong and reliable, therefore, by installing it, you can guarantee the long-term operation of the drainage system at home.

The next type of brackets differs from others in the ability to change the angle of inclination of the hook itself. The latter is connected to the stand with a pin in the form of a bolt. That is, a swivel joint is used. The angle of inclination is changed by means of bolted stop elements. If it is necessary to increase the slope of the hook, then the bolts are screwed in, pressing on the delivery. And vice versa . When changing the slope, the hinge bolt must be loosened, after setting the angle, tighten it. This modification is used when installing on an inclined frontal board, or if the gutter system is installed on log cabin.

Fastening to roofing material

Brackets for attaching gutters to roofing material appeared on the market relatively recently. They can only be used if the roof is covered with durable and rigid roofing material. Fastening method - on clamps (clamps), with which the hooks are fixed along the edge of the roof.

Today manufacturers offer two types of this bracket model:

For clamps, holes must be drilled in the roof covering.
Without drilling holes, the clamp is made additionally with a screw.

Consider in more detail the second option for attaching gutters:

The nuances of installing gutters when using this type of hook:

the distance from the edge of the roofing material to the place of the crack is within 5 cm;
if a modification is used without drilling the roof, then it is recommended to put rubber gaskets under the support planes of the clamp (both on the upper side and on the bottom);
if the installation is made to the wave material, then the installation can be carried out both to the lower waves and to the upper ones, taking into account the exact location of the clamp relative to the wave height;
it is better to give preference to plastic brackets, as they are lighter, since the load from the entire drainage system on the roofing material together with the drained water will be impressive, which can lead to a break in the latter.

Combined option

These types of fasteners for gutters represent a structure consisting of two parts: a short plastic hook and a long L-shaped holder, the short part of which is relatively long rotated by 90 °. In the short part, holes are drilled or a groove is made through which the hook and the holder are fastened to each other. Holes are also made in the long part of the holder for fastening the structure to the rafter leg.

How to do this correctly is shown on the example of attaching the drain to the eaves overhang of the roof:

This option sometimes becomes the only one. For example, if the roof covering extends beyond the rafter legs to a distance of 15–20 cm. Of course, you can use a clamping modification, but the roofing material does not always allow this.

Universal option

This structure is a pull-up element located inside the gutter. Trays in this plan are attached to it using bends located on the bracket itself. One fold clings to the outer edge of the tray, the other to the inner edge. A bushing with internal thread... A screw is inserted into it, with which both products are attached to each other and to the wall.

This model is rarely used. But, as a fastener for trays, it belongs to the category of universal ones, because it can be used for installation on the frontal board, on the wall, and on the rafter legs.

Other ways to install brackets

There are other ways of attaching the gutters of the drainage system with your own hands. Because it is not always possible to install them along the rafters, crate or frontal board.

Mounting method	Description
On the wall	Usually this option is used for installation on a mansard roof already covered with roofing material. The main task of the contractor is to accurately mark the installation site.
On spotlights	The option is not the best, but sometimes the only one. The main thing is that there must be a certain width of the soffits corresponding to the length of the holder. Combined designs are often used here.
On metal pins	This option is used in two cases: if there is no frontal board in the roof structure, the width of the soffit or filing of the eaves is too narrow.

The last installation option is simple and has several options. If the gutters are installed on wooden house, then metal pins (with one sharp end) are simply driven into the wood. If the house is brick or concrete, then first holes are drilled in the wall with a perforator for the required depth, where the cement-sand mixture is placed, and only then the pin is hammered. Installation of gutters can be carried out only after the bonding mortar has completely dried..

Video tutorials on fastening gutters

The nuances of fastening gutter elements

The slope angle of the gutters is 3–7 °.
The distance between the gutter fasteners is 50-60 cm.
The distance between the clamps of the gutter pipes is 1.8-2.0 m. If the installation height exceeds 10 m, then the step of mounting the clamps is reduced to 1.5 m.

Conclusion

Before you fix the gutters with your own hands, you need to accurately carry out all the installation measurements and decide on the types of brackets. Choosing one or another installation option, you solve the issue of not only savings money, but also the strength of the entire structure.