Before installing the sill to the plastic windows, you need to determine the material that you will use. Most the best choice is an acrylic window sill. In contrast to the usual PVC coating, acrylic film is protected from burning by a cigarette, sand scuffs and other mechanical influences. At the end, the entire list of types of window sills is indicated, we will focus on the plastic window sill.

It is more difficult to install a window sill with your own hands, but at the same time it is cheaper, and you will gain experience. After the installation of the windows has been completed by the installers, you can immediately start attaching the window sills. The tools that you will need to complete the work: construction foam, wooden blocks, or plastic inserts, a level, or a corner, grinder, perforator or hammer.

The first stage is to knock off ledges in the slope for fixing the window sill. IN PVC windows from below there are grooves where the window sill should fit, but no one foresaw such a connector in the walls. If you have big house, then by shortening the distance of the protrusions, you can save the whole window sill.

When you decide on the size of the ledge (a few cm is enough), outline the place where you plan to make them with a pencil. Further, depending on the material, walk the grinder along the lines drawn on the slopes. If the material is not very strong, then a hammer is enough to break off the protrusions later if you have concrete walls, you will need a hammer drill with a set of chisels.

Why is it blowing after installing the window sill?

Do-it-yourself installation does not always go well - everyone has different skills and experience. Remember that before installing the window sill in the opening, you need to make sure that the installers did not leave you a surprise - holes between the window and the wall, small holes, etc. Quickly installing the window sill without checking this nuance, you will never guess why your apartment is cold, so be careful.

When you blow holes in, start cleaning the grooves and the place where the window sill will be installed. Any small stone can become a major obstacle during installation. After removing the "large" obstacles, start cleaning the rest of the area - sweep the future parking of the window sill with a brush.

Before using the foam, it is important not only to clean the area, but also to moisten it - construction foam acts in places where there is moisture. We recommend that you use a primer for these purposes, just keep in mind that the thickness of the applied layer directly depends on the number of pores in the material. For example, more soil can be applied to aerated concrete than to ordinary concrete - otherwise the place for the windowsill will be too wet.

You will need wooden blocks or plastic inserts, which we talked about at the beginning, to level the level of the windowsill. It should be positioned exactly 90 degrees in relation to the window. Determine the level of the sill, and then insert your blanks into the voids between the wall and the object to be installed. You can determine the degree both with the help of a level, and with your own hands using a corner.

When you're done with measurements, start blowing foam. It is very important that the foam is distributed around the entire perimeter. Please note that after a while it will increase in size and will need to be cut. This will need to be done taking into account the fact that putty and plaster will need to be applied under the windowsill.

In order for the window sill not to rise due to the increasing foam, it is necessary to install a load on it. An excellent solution will be installed on the windowsill of 5-liter water bottles. Three pieces are enough.

At the end of the installation, seal the joints with sealant.

Materials price

It makes no sense to take expensive foam, it will do for 250 rubles. If you raise the window sill, you can do without a foam gun, but it will make the process easier. Its cost is about 1000 rubles. The primer, according to the idea, should be available in the room where the repair is being made, but just in case: its cost is 100 rubles. The price of a window sill is from 50 to 1200 rubles per meter, depending on the manufacturer and the quality of the material.

Types of window sills:

  1. Monomaterial (wood, granite and other stone, PVC window sills)
  2. Composite materials differ in the material of the board and film.
Varieties of boards:
  • polyvinyl chloride;
  • chipboard or fiber board;
  • wood-polymer composite;
Varieties of films by type of coating:
  • polyvinyl chloride;
  • veneer;
  • paper-laminate (High Pressure Laminate, Continious Pressure Laminate, EPL-coating)
Types of abrasion films:
  1. PVC film (paper, varnish)
  2. Elesgo film (electron beam hardened surface).

Video

Installing a new or replacing an old window sill with your own hands is one of the most important moments when installing a window opening. Even the most beautiful and modern window designs will not look complete without this element. In addition to its beautiful appearance, the window sill protects the window opening from mechanical stress, and also helps to retain heat in the room. This is what determines the features of its installation.

Features:

The installation of the window sill, as a rule, completes the installation of the window, and it is done after the slopes are installed. This easy-to-manufacture structure, consisting of a small flat piece of board or PVC, has several functions at once.

  • Protective.A properly installed window sill acts as a barrier to cold outside air and also prevents heat from seeping into the cracks under the window. Of course, a window frame correctly installed by the masters and without it does a good job with this function, so the owners are most often interested in the following function.

  • Decorative.Window sills made of a variety of natural and artificial materials can be a real decoration of the room. They connect walls, windows and radiators into a single ensemble, and various decorations and fresh flowers installed on it delight the eyes of all guests. In addition, a small workspace can be organized on the windowsill, dining area and even arrange a small corner for your pet.

  • Heat redistribution functionindoors. The part of the window-sill surface protruding beyond the wall serves as a kind of "springboard" for the hot air rising from the battery. Pushing off from it, the heat flow is directed into the room, and does not rise strictly vertically to the ceiling surface.

The main thing is not to overdo it with the width of the window sill, otherwise heat will not get on the window glass at all, which can lead to condensation. It is enough to equip a protrusion of 5–6 centimeters.

Technical requirements

When choosing the size, material and design of the window sill structure, it should be remembered that it must meet certain requirements. To date, there is no separate GOST for the installation of window sills. However, the basic requirements for heat transfer, sound insulation and joint stability can be studied in standard 30971-2002.

To summarize everything listed in it, it can be noted that this window element must have the following characteristics:

  • strength.Since the window sill should easily withstand the load of a person sitting on it or household items;
  • moisture resistance. This characteristic is especially important for products installed in rooms with high humidity (baths, saunas and swimming pools);
  • resistance to environmental influences. The surface of the material should not deteriorate from detergents or fade and shrink in direct sunlight.

Many window manufacturers offer in their services the manufacture and installation of a window sill suitable for the entire window structure. And most often they have the necessary characteristics. The main questions begin to arise when the height of the sill surface above the floor level is chosen. Since there are no standards for this, each owner relies on his own preferences. However, there are a number of recommendations in order to make this parameter optimal.

When determining the height of the windowsill, the height of the people living in the room and the placement of radiators should be taken into account.

When buying a new building or renovating a secondary home, it is advisable to take into account the future arrangement of furniture. The height of the structure located in the living room often depends on the view from the window. In the presence of beautiful landscape or pictures of the city, it makes sense to lower the level to 25–40 cm. If you want to hide an unaesthetic courtyard, then the level can be raised to 80 cm.

Bedroom windows are usually not too large to keep warm and are almost always covered with curtains, so appearance windowsills do not play a special role. Usually it is raised 90 cm from the floor in the adult bedroom and 70 cm in the nursery, since children need as much natural sunlight as possible.

For the kitchen, the width of the window sill plays an important role, which can be used for utilitarian purposes. Its height is best compared to the height of your kitchen countertop.

In the office, the lighting of the room comes first. The lower the product is installed, the longer the room will be illuminated by natural light. The average height is 60–65 cm.

Views

The most advantageous option is to manufacture the window frame and sill from the same material. Such an ensemble looks thoughtful and complete. But, despite the popularity of this option, the structure under the window can be made from almost any material. The main thing is that it is of high quality, beautiful and affordable for the customer.

Pvc

The most popular material in the modern construction market is polyvinyl chloride. The design with a hollow interior and stiff inner ribs is one of the warmest and quite durable. With its low cost, PVC products can be of almost any color and with any pattern. They are not afraid of cold and moisture, but will last as long as windows made of this material, so you do not have to separately dismantle and change them

You should not save by buying very cheap plastic, as it will quickly burn out and deform under the influence of direct sunlight.

Acrylic based plastic

It will be more expensive to install such window sills in a house or apartment than PVC window sills, approximately 3-4 times. Nevertheless, this price is fully justified due to the fact that acrylic is not at all afraid high temperatures unlike conventional plastic. Having installed such a product in the kitchen, you can safely put hot pots and pans on it, without fear of ruining the beautiful glossy surface. The acrylic surface allows you to choose from a large number of colors and will last several times longer.

Wood

The installation of a wooden window sill is most often done in conjunction with the installation of a wooden frame. Budget option pine or linden may appear. The tree species are impregnated with special protective agents and varnished. Elite yew or golden oak species, mounted in chic country houses, are distinguished by a high price. The combination of a plastic window with a wooden window sill will look especially good if the frame itself is laminated to the same type of wood that the window sill consists of.

Particleboard and MDF

Such window sills will look great in combination with furniture from the same material. MDF, unlike chipboard, is more expensive, but has greater resistance to moisture. Experts recommend using this material to replace old wooden or plastic window sills, which will not hit the wallet hard and is easy to do with your own hands.

Natural and artificial stone

Of course, a stone window sill made of real marble or granite in modern design looks amazing. Apart from its high cost and complexity of installation, this material is quite fragile and unpredictable. Traces from dishes and scratches from cleaning agents easily remain on the light stone.

A solid slab can be shattered with a light blow that accidentally hits a critical stress point. An excellent alternative can be a product made of artificial stone... It is not only cheaper, but also more resistant to mechanical and chemical influences. Such a window sill will likely be replaced because you want something new, and not because it will deteriorate, since the service life of, for example, porcelain stoneware starts from 50–70 years.

How to install?

All types of window sill structures are mounted on general principle... Because plastic windows with plastic window sills are the most popular option, then the work algorithm is based on their example.

Measurements, purchase and dismantling

The first thing to do is to correctly measure all the required values. To determine the length of the window sill, you need to measure the width of the window opening itself in the place closest to the space of the room. To this value is added 1–2 cm on both sides to hide the raw edges with slopes. Then the width of the wall to the window is measured and a few centimeters are added to the value in order to deepen the product into a special groove in the window.

The value obtained is the width to be installed flush with the wall. In the event that the window sill protrudes, it is necessary to add another 6–8 cm to the resulting value, and the length of the lugs is added to the resulting length.

In accordance with the measurements, the material is bought and the window sill is made by hand, or a ready-made version is ordered from the master.

Before taking measurements, the old window sill is dismantled, the surface is leveled and cleaned of debris and dust.

Installation

Before starting installation, it is necessary to try on the future window sill and, if necessary, make a final fit. You can cut MDF, chipboard and wood with an ordinary electric jigsaw, and for plastic and stone you need a grinder.

With the help of a puncher, small grooves are made in the walls, where the edges of the window sill will go.After working with a hammer drill, fine dust may remain on the surface, so it must again be cleaned and dried.

Plastic films are removed from the purchased window sill in places of contact with the slopes and the window, it itself is inserted into the groove of the window profile and the resulting grooves in the walls.

Wooden wedges are laid under the installed window board, starting from the edges and moving towards the middle. Such substrates should not protrude beyond the edge of the wall, the distance between adjacent wedges should not exceed 40 cm. The horizontality of the installed window sill structure is checked by level and, if necessary, corrected by additional lining of wooden wedges.

Ideally, the board should have a slight (0.2 cm) slope towards the room. This will prevent moisture accumulation near the frame and the appearance of mildew and mildew on the windowsill.

A large (about 20 kg) load is placed on the leveled product, so as not to disturb the angle of inclination by accidental touching, and the space between the wedges is filled with professional polyurethane foam from a special gun. Additionally fix the board to window profile you can use ordinary screws.

The mounting foam that has got on the walls or the front surface of the window sill must be immediately removed with a damp cloth, since the frozen foam can be removed only with a special solvent, which can also damage the surface of the product. After a day, after waiting for the foam to dry completely, you can remove the load and cut off its excess. Decorative protective overlays are installed at the ends of the window sill, the protective film is completely removed.

Walls and slopes are restored to a neat look with the help of plaster, after which they are decorated with any decorative coating.

To install a wooden window sill, you must additionally purchase a thick felt and treat it with an antiseptic. It is attached to the inside of the window sill with the help of shredding. The same felt is used to protect the ends of natural and artificial stone window sills before installation. These are all the differences in the algorithm for working with window sills made of different materials.

Usually installing a window sill, plastic slopes and the ebb occurs immediately after the installation of the window. In most cases, this is done by a team of builders specializing in metal-plastic structures. But there are times when it becomes necessary to install a window sill plate with your own hands, and how to do it correctly, we will consider in the article.

How to choose a windowsill

There are various reasons why there is a desire or need to install a window sill with your own hands:


  • The window is in good condition, and the window-sill plate is damaged (dirty, scratched, melted, burned out, etc.).
  • The old window sill was not installed correctly.
  • There was a desire to install a window sill of a different color. For example, after renovation in a room, the color of PVC board does not match the new interior.
  • There is a need to replace the window sill plate with a wider or narrower one. A wider window sill is placed in the event that it is necessary to place a large number of objects on it, for example, pots with flowers or seedlings. A narrower window sill may be needed if too wide prevents the free movement of warm air from the battery upward and the circulation of air in the room during the cold season. In this case, the warm air from the battery does not heat the window, it “sweats”, dampness and even fungus appear.
  • It is difficult to find a master who will undertake such a small amount of work as installing one window sill plate.
  • It is not at all difficult to install the window sill plate yourself, while you can save money that could be spent on paying for the work of the master.
  • It's just nice to do something useful with your own hands.

Important!A wide window sill visually enlarges the room and its useful area.

So, if it becomes necessary to replace the PVC plate, you need to know that the window sills are different:


  • colors, in addition to light and dark shades, there are imitations of stone and valuable wood species;
  • dimensions: width from 110 to 800 mm, length from 4050 to 6000 mm, thickness from 18 to 22 mm;
  • company and country of origin;
  • price (from $ 3 to $ 20 per running meter);
  • the quality of the material - polyvinyl chloride, including resistance to wear and tear, resistance to heat, moisture and vapor resistance, UV resistance, environmental friendliness, durability.

Did you know? Polyvinyl chloride is widely used. Condoms are even made from PVC for people with latex allergies.

In addition to the window sill itself, it is necessary to purchase two end caps, which are installed on the side sections of the window sill at the final stage installation works... If there is a need for a straight or corner connection of two sill boards, you should purchase a universal corner connector for PVC boards.

Required tools and supplies

For a high-quality installation of a plastic plate with your own hands, you will need the following tools and consumables:


  • Metal square.
  • Marker or pencil.
  • Roulette.
  • Primer.
  • Grinder, jigsaw or hacksaw.
  • Rotary hammer (optional, only if the material of the slopes is dense concrete).
  • Chisel and hammer.
  • Brush.
  • Building level.
  • Construction foam and a gun.
  • A set of plastic substrates or wooden blocks.
  • Cement, gypsum or glue for setting the blocks to the required height or for raising the level of the base.
  • Sealant.
  • Masking tape.
  • Stationery knife.

Installation process

Regardless of whether the window sill plate is installed by a specialized assembly team or a newcomer to this business, the entire process of installing PVC plate can be conditionally divided into several stages.


Preparatory stage

The place where it is planned to install the PVC plate should be prepared, namely the lower part of the window opening and the side window slopes. The window sill should slightly enter the wall on the sides, therefore, in the slopes, it is necessary to cut through the slopes with a depth of 1-2 cm on each side in order to bring a plastic plate there. To do this, the window sill is applied to the wall and marks are made for cuts with a pencil or marker. Next, carefully select the grooves so that the window sill fits freely into them. This work requires accuracy so that afterwards not to restore grossly damaged slopes and not to close up large holes in the slopes.

Important! In order to minimize the procedure for restoring slopes, it is worth treating them as carefully as possible during the installation of the window sill.

If the corners of the slopes were leveled using metal perforated corners, then you should carefully cut the metal corner using a grinder. It is also advisable to use a grinder to make a horizontal cut in the slope. The rest of the groove in the wall is conveniently done with a chisel and a hammer. These tools are most suitable if the slope material is gypsum plaster. If the slopes are made of concrete, then the indentations in the slope should be done using a puncher. Lateral grooves in the slopes serve as additional support for the window sill on the sides.



The lower part of the window opening and the support profile, which is located under window frame and is used for the installation of the window sill, it should be cleaned of pieces of plaster, concrete and brick, which appeared in the process of creating grooves in the slopes. Then, with a brush, sweep away all debris and dust. The cleaned surface should be moistened. This is necessary for better grip polyurethane foam with the surface on which the window sill will be located. It is advisable not just to wet the surface with water, but to use a primer for these purposes. The primer strengthens the surface, removes dust and moisturizes at the same time. With a brush, generously apply the soil to the surface, soak all the pits, bulges, pores, cracks.

Important! In order not to blow from under the window sill, you should check the quality of the foaming of the window frame and, if necessary, eliminate all the shortcomings at the preparatory stage of work.

Window sill trimming

AND mea ready-made window sill, it is necessary to cut out a blank for the window sill from it. To do this, you need to calculate the length and width of the future window sill. The length of the window sill slab should be greater than the length of the surface for the window sill and extend beyond the slopes. The length of these protrusions depends on individual taste preferences, usually 5-7 cm on each side, but you can limit yourself to a protrusion of 1-2 cm.


The workpiece width is calculated by summing:

  • the width of the window sill;
  • the depth to which the slab is inserted under the window into the support profile (usually about 20 mm);
  • the protruding part of the window sill, which should not be more than 100 mm, so as not to impede the passage of heat from the battery.
Along the edges of the window sill, rectangles should be cut out that prevent the canvas from being sloped. The plastic blade is cut easily enough. You can choose any tool for cutting: a grinder, a hacksaw, a jigsaw. All jags, irregularities and other small trimming defects will be covered with plastic end caps.

After the workpiece is ready, you need to try it on in place, that is, put it on the lower part of the window opening and bring it into the recesses of the slopes and inside the support profile. If any inaccuracies are revealed during fitting, they should be eliminated before the final installation of the window sill.

Gasket installation

Some installers install the window sill strictly perpendicular to the window; they use a metal square for control. However, most experts believe that a properly installed window sill plate should have a slight tilt to the inside of the room, so that in the event of moisture it flows down.


To fix the desired option for installing the window sill slab blank, you need to put plastic spacers or wooden blocks along its plane. Their dimensions should be selected so that the surface of the PVC board is perfectly flat. To install one window sill, at least 3 supports are required (one in the middle and two closer to the edges). The distance between the supports should not exceed half a meter. In order for the gaskets or wooden blocks not to move, it is advisable to glue them on a silicone sealant, gypsum or cement mortar.

Important! The process of fitting and installing PVC window sill must be constantly monitored by the building level.

The supports of the window sill should be placed at such a level that, when trying on the window sill blank, a gap does not appear between the window sill and the window frame. If, in order to comply with this requirement, the supports turn out to be higher than 40 mm, this is unacceptable. A foam layer exceeding 40 mm will not be of high quality, there will be voids in it, it will not be able to withstand the required load, and the thermal insulation properties will be insufficient. In this case, before placing the linings under the window sill plate, you need to raise the level of the lower part of the window opening. This can be done with cement or gypsum plaster, self-leveling floor, etc.


Installation

At the preparatory stage of installing the window sill slab, we cleaned, strengthened and moistened the lower part of the window opening with a primer. By the time the window sill is installed, the primer has already dried, and for better adhesion and acceleration of the foam hardening process, the surfaces with which the polyurethane foam will come into contact should be wet. Therefore, it is necessary to moisten both the lower part of the window opening and the lower part of the window sill slab. The PVC board is covered with a protective film. The edges of the window sill slab, which will be mounted under the window frame and in the slope holes, must be cleaned of the protective film.


On the rest of the windowsill, it is advisable to keep the film until the end of all renovation works... In order not to blow out from under the window sill, the first step is to slightly foam the space between the lower part of the window opening and the window support profile. Then the foam is applied in a wide strip under the far edge of the window sill plate, and then in dense stripes over the entire surface of the base. For the convenience of applying foam, additional extension nozzles are used.

Important! The height of the foam should not exceed the level of the supports placed under the windowsill. When foaming, the main thing is not to overdo it.

When solidified, the foam increases in volume by so much that it is able to lift the window sill plate up. To prevent such a nuisance, you need to put some kind of load on the PVC plate. It is advisable to put something flat under the load so that the weight spreads evenly. The load should be placed on the inner edge of the window sill, since the outer edge will be firmly pressed anyway window block.


Deviation check

Once again we check if there are any cracks, if the window sill is installed evenly, whether the projections are the same at the edges, whether the required slope is observed. If small irregularities are found within the first two hours after installation, they can be easily corrected. Perhaps you need to make a few gentle blows with a hammer in the right direction, and the formation of pits or bumps can be leveled by moving the load on the surface of the window sill.

Sealing gaps

Gaps and cracks appear at the junction of the window sill slab and the slope, the window sill slab and the window, as well as the window and the slope. Obviously, it is advisable to correct such shortcomings after all the main elements (window, window sill and slope) are installed.


Sealing of gaps is carried out using silicone sealant, which is applied in a thin strip at the joints. It is advisable to seal the edges of surfaces that the sealant should not get on in advance with masking tape. Moreover, excess sealant and masking tape should be removed immediately after applying the sealant. Once it dries, it will be much more difficult to do and the result will be less flavorful. Excess dried foam under the window sill should be removed. The foam is easily cut with a utility knife. The resulting recess must be filled in ordinary plaster for walls.

Excess foam under the window sill must be removed so that the thickness of the plaster layer is at least 1 cm. Such a layer will lie securely and will not be pressed through during further work and operation.

Installation of clamps

At the final stage, the side edges of the window sill are protected by end caps, and the window sill itself is cleaned of the protective film.


How to wash the windowsill

When common home remedies such as: soap, soda, vinegar, tooth powder, chalk turned out to be powerless in the fight against pollution, special chemical agents... Choice of modern household chemicals will be able to cope with any dirt on the plastic surface. You only need to correctly formulate your problem to the sales assistant in the household chemicals department, stressing that you need a plastic cleaner.


Careful use and regular maintenance will help to avoid the problems associated with washing difficult dirt. The main thing is not to use metal scrapers and abrasives: they leave scratches, in which dirt then accumulates.

It is up to you to install the window sill plate with your own hands or use the services of a specialized construction team. In fact, the process of installing a window sill is not difficult, but requires the presence or acquisition necessary tools, supplies (the remains of which may no longer be useful) and work skills. If the first attempt to install a PVC plate with your own hands is unsuccessful, then the total cost of self-installation may turn out to be much more than the wages of the foreman.

Video: how to install a window sill with your own hands

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When replacing old window structures, you must immediately install new window sills from modern materials... Today, plastic products are at the top of popularity. The width of the PVC panel is 60 cm, which makes it possible to install them with almost any wall thickness. How to install a plastic window sill efficiently and reliably, read on.

  1. Preparatory work
  2. Exception - installation of wooden structures

Preparatory work

IN preparatory stage includes measurement and design selection, selection of tools, purchase of building materials. If the glass units have not been replaced, you will need to dismantle the old window sill board. When replacing a window, the old window structure is completely removed. The installation of a new glass unit is carried out by the specialists of the manufacturer's company. Installation of a plastic window sill can also be carried out by specialists or by the customer himself.

Installation of a plastic window sill is carried out only after installing the window frame and glass unit.

When replacing only the panel, you must first make the correct measurement:

  1. Measure the width of the window opening. Throw in another 10 cm and get the total length of the structure.
  2. The width of the panel is equal to the distance from the installed window to the corner of the wall plus 5 cm per ledge. It is impractical to make the base of the window wider, since air circulation is impaired, which leads to fogging of the glass.

Read a more detailed article on the topic: the correct height and width of the window sill.

Tools and materials

To install a plastic window sill with your own hands, you need a set of tools:

  • carpenter level;
  • electric jigsaw or grinder;
  • carpenter's knife and hacksaw;
  • ax and hammer;
  • square;
  • marker and masking tape.

Materials should be prepared:

  • sealant;
  • gun and polyurethane foam;
  • window sill panel;
  • three sets of substrates made of plastic or wood of different widths;
  • two end caps.

Preparation of the installation site for PVC window sill

Installation of a plastic window sill

Using a hacksaw, electric jigsaw, ax, remove old structure and window frame. The cement screed is removed along the edges of the wooden product. They clean the opening from the breakaway building material, insulation.

Experts install a new PVC window so that a distance of at least 5 cm remains between the base of the window opening and the bottom of the frame. The left opening will serve as a support for the new structure.

If you plan to install a PVC window sill with your own hands longer than the window opening, grooves are sampled on the sides at the base. This requires a hammer and grinder. First, they cut the wall, and then gently knock out with a hammer construction material... The height of the groove is made so that the new panel fits easily. The length of one groove is more than 5 cm.

The distance between the base of the window opening and the frame is foamed with polyurethane foam or laid with insulation. After the foam has completely solidified, cut off the excess with a carpenter's knife. When installing plastic panel the size of a window opening mark the attachment points for the brackets at a distance of no more than 80 cm.

Video: Installing a window sill

Before installation pVC products it is necessary to clean the base from debris and dust again. Be sure to wet the brick with water to ensure adhesion.

Installing a plastic window sill

All materials have been purchased and the tools are ready to go. Installation of the window sill begins.

  1. Determine the width of the structure. It can be the same as the width of the old base. When replacing windows and installing a new PVC product, its new width is calculated. Ideally, the edge of the panel is located in the same plane with the middle of the heating system battery. When installing the panel, the edge of which protrudes beyond the battery, ventilate holes in the panel itself. Such holes are also made in the casing in front of the battery. They are needed for good ventilation of the air in front of the window, which protects window structure from condensation.
  2. The length of the plastic base is selected. When two windows are located next to each other, preference is given to one integral design. When installing PVC window sills in size equal to the window opening, the panel length is made shorter by 10 mm.

According to the selected dimensions, the panels are made to order in the hardware store. Shop foremen immediately carry out pruning according to the specified parameters. Sometimes they buy a blank, and do the trimming at home on their own.

  1. The support for the installation of plastic window sills is made from pre-purchased substrates. The width of the bar should be at least 50 mm, and the length should not exceed the width of the product. The shortest backing board should be 100 mm less than the panel width. Particular attention is paid to the thickness of the substrate. After installing the block, the panel should enter the space under the window sill between the lower window frame and the substrate.
  2. Before installing the substrate bars, the surface of the base is leveled with cement mortar. One structure requires at least three substrates. The optimal distance between the bars is 40-50 cm.
  3. The supports are aligned strictly horizontally and the correct installation is checked using a level in all planes. Make a control installation of the plastic panel. The result of correct fastening of the substrate is a tight fit of the structure into the gap between the edge of the window and the support.
  4. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic window sills begins with the removal of the protective film from the side adjacent to the window. Install plugs on the ends of the panel. Carefully insert the structure onto the fixed supports.
  5. The panel snaps into place. Align the product in relation to the window frame with a slight tap. A control measurement is carried out with a level in two directions.
  6. On the right and left, gaps of 5 mm are left, which makes it possible to protect the panel from deformation. At the end of the installation, the gaps are sealed with sealant.
  7. Gently foam the space under the plastic window sill with polyurethane foam. If the panel is poorly fixed, it will skew from an increase in foam in volume.
  8. Spacers are installed along the edges and in the center of the window opening. They are made independently or buy transforming spacers in the store. They do not allow the foam to lift the installed base of the window opening. When the foam hardens well, the spacers are dismantled and the excess foam is cut off.
  9. After the slopes are installed, they begin to seal the gaps. Masking tape is glued along the edges. Fill the gap with silicone sealant. Remove excess and remove masking tape.
  10. The protective film is removed after the completion of the work.

If you have stained the windowsill with foam, read how to clean the surface of foam.

Video: Installing a window sill

Exception - installation of wooden window sills

Window sills made of oak, pine, beech, ash or cherry wood make the interior of the house warmer and more comfortable. Giving preference to natural materials, many owners of apartments and houses, instead of artificial plastic, choose natural wooden bases... Stores sell varnished wood panels different shades with different surface textures. Having made their choice, they begin to install a wooden window sill with their own hands.

Preparing the walls

The base is cleaned from dust and debris. The surface is wetted with water to ensure good adhesion. If there is a niche under the window, metal or wooden supports are placed horizontally on top so that the panel does not hang in the air. In this case, a wooden structure is put on a metal frame.

Sill alignment

Pre-expose the window sill with wedges, achieving a slope inside the room by only 2 degrees. Along the window, the board is placed strictly horizontally. When all the necessary indicators are achieved, the wedges are strengthened with a small amount of mortar by removing the workpiece.

Fastening a wooden window sill

A layer of mortar is spread on the base, covering the wedges by 5 mm. Mostly cement mortar is used, but putty or gypsum can be used. Install the window sill in place and press firmly against the wedges until it stops. The excess protruding is removed with a spatula.

Advice! As a safety net, an insulating film is first laid on top of the mortar to protect the tree from direct contact with the aqueous solution.

Sealing and strengthening of fastening

For a more reliable fixation from the side of the facade, long self-tapping screws are driven into the end of the wooden window sill through the window frame. After completing the fastening of the structure, small gaps are closed with liquid acrylic.

Now you know how to install a plastic window sill and wooden structure yourself. Follow our advice and you will succeed. For a better assimilation of the read material, watch the video we have selected about different options installation.

Video: Installation of the Window Sill. Installing the Window Sill On Tile Adhesive.

Video: Work after installing a plastic window sill.

Similar materials


A plastic window sill is installed at the final stage of PVC window installation. Usually these works are included in the range of services of the organization that was engaged in the manufacture of the window unit with its further installation. But, given the relatively simple process of installing the window sill, it is quite possible to put it on your own. To do this correctly, it is recommended that you follow the instructions.

Taking measurements

It is possible to install a plastic window sill only if its dimensions have been determined in accordance with the characteristics of the window block, opening and slopes. Its width is determined by the thickness of the load-bearing wall from the window. In addition to this, the margin at the edge (the protruding part of the window sill above the radiator) is taken into account, as well as the area located under the window block (1-2 cm).

For this, the insulating glass manufacturer provides a special profile. The optimal release along the edge will be about 7-8 cm. A plastic window sill of this width will not interfere with the outflow of heat from the radiator.

The length will correspond to the width of the window, only about 10 cm is added to this size (5 cm on each side). To properly secure the window sill, an additional 5 cm of the surface must go into the slopes. The amount of work depends on the state of the load-bearing wall in the window opening (whether there are slopes, are they plastered, etc.).

Preparing for installation

If you plan to install the window sill yourself, you need to take into account that the edges of the PVC profile of the cut product must go into the slopes. To do this, you will have to break the section along the lower edge of the slopes.

In a situation where the surface finish of the window opening has not yet been completed, in load-bearing walls at the appropriate level, grooves must be made using the grooving method. Their depth should correspond to the size of the stock left on each side (5 cm). These works do not need to be performed if you plan to install plasterboard slopes.

Essential tool for the job

To properly install the window sill, you will need a set of tools: a jigsaw / circular saw, a building level, a foam gun, a pencil, a tape measure, a puncher and a chisel (required for chipping).

If desired, trimming the profile is done by hand, but you can order the manufacture of a window sill according to the specified dimensions. The section of the window opening, where it is planned to install it, is cleared of construction debris. Dust can be removed with a cloth dampened in water.

Stages of work

Regardless of who took the measurements and cut out the window sill with the desired parameters, additional adjustment of the product may be required. This is usually done in areas that prevent the plastic block from entering the window opening. For self-cutting, a grinder / jigsaw is used.


Window sill installation scheme

Now you can install the window sill: a special profile is laid at the bottom of the window, where it is inserted. The workpiece must enter the groove at a distance of up to 2 cm. At this stage, it is necessary to organize a slope of no more than 1 cm towards the living quarters.

It is usually customary to fix the windowsill with wooden wedges. They are installed on the rough covering of the window opening under the workpiece at a distance of up to 40 cm from each other. This allows you to correctly install the PVC profile, and, in addition, contributes to the tight contact of the block with the frame.

Checking the absence of distortions and the accuracy of the position of the workpiece is carried out using a building profile. If irregularities are found, it is necessary to pick up additional chips. It is recommended to place them under the wedges at the bottom of the window sill, which has already been brought into the window.

The final stage of work is fixing the structure. This is done using polyurethane foam and a special gun. Sufficient load weight is determined depending on which filling compound is used.


Errors and recommendations for installation work

If ordinary foam is used, then in order to avoid deformation of the profile, it is advisable to load its entire surface. This can be done with water bottles. Filling the voids with polyurethane foam is performed as carefully as possible, since the reliability of the window sill will depend on this.

Then the structure must dry completely, which takes 24 hours. After that, the excess foam is cut off.

What do you need to know?

Some features should be taken into account during installation:

  • when wedges are installed under the windows, they must be slightly recessed, otherwise they will have to be cut;
  • before fixing the workpiece, you need to remove the protective film from the profile, but not over the entire surface, but only where the window sill will go into the groove under the window;
  • when applying foam, it is advisable not to leave voids, but you also do not need to be zealous with its amount, since when it dries, it can squeeze out even the load installed on the windowsill;
  • while working with polyurethane foam, it is recommended to keep a special cleaner close at hand, if suddenly something gets dirty;
  • if there is little experience in such work, you can use spacers instead of a load (water bottle): wooden beams are fully installed on horizontally oriented boards, which, in turn, are laid on the windowsill.

Thus, the installation process itself is quite simple, but if some features were missed, then as a result, the window sill will have to be laid again. To correctly install the workpiece, a building level is used.

The sufficient level of load on the window sill is determined based on which composition of the polyurethane foam is used: two-component or conventional. The second of these options requires the use of a significant load.


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