Do I need to glue the plastic gutter. How to install gutters: ways to connect gutters and pipes. Drainage schemes for different roof structures

Is the roof drainage system almost invisible? until water begins to flow from the gutters under the threshold and foundation of the house. The cause of leaks can be a depressurization of the seams or a defect in the drain itself. Sometimes this happens if, during the installation of the drain, the sealant was not used at all due to savings. The use of the same sealant will help to fix both problems, only the entire system will have to be disassembled and reassembled.

The most suitable sealants for gutter installation

It is wise to start a gutter sealant review by identifying what that substance is. Their appearance resembles a thick paste or paste. Polymeric additives or oligomers impart viscosity to the sealant. The mastic is applied to any joint, as a result of which the joint is sealed. After hardening, the sealant firmly adheres to the surface of the treated object. It turns out a kind of waterproofing of the seam of the connected parts, preventing the penetration of moisture.

On the shelves of retail outlets, you can find a huge variety of sealants for different types of work. In widespread consumption, 4 types of mastic are usually used, made on the basis of different components. Which one is better suited for sealing gutters, we will now try to find out.

One of the most commonly used sealing mastics is considered to be silicone sealant. After it hardens, a strong elastic seam is formed on the surface of the object. Mastic can be white or transparent. The paste is based on silicone rubber. For ease of use, it is most often sold in plastic tubes with a capacity of 310 mm. It is enough to insert the balloon into a special nozzle-gun, and the sealant can be used. Sometimes you can find other packaging of the paste on the shelves, for example, like tubes of toothpaste.

There are two types of silicone sealant:

• Acetate compositionintended for use on objects with a smooth surface. Mastic is characterized by a pungent smell, however, it tends to quickly disappear.
• Neutral compositionhas less adhesion to the surface of the object, therefore it is often used for internal works... The mastic is ideal for the bathroom and kitchen. Perfectly adheres to tiles, wood, glass.

Silicone sealant is often used in the assembly of verandas, greenhouses, drainage systems and other structures where waterproofing of joints is required.

Any acrylic-based sealant is less elastic than silicone, but adheres well to plastic. However, acrylic has a significant disadvantage - it dissolves in water. Acrylic sealant is not suitable as a gutter joint compound. Moisture intolerance is explained by the base of the mastic, which consists of an aqueous dispersion. Such a paste better fitas a sealant for sealing joints of any designs. These can be cracks in door and window frames, as well as any other non-wet places.

Now in retail outlets you can find white acrylic sealants with the inscription - moisture resistant. The mastic is really moisture resistant after it has completely cured. However, such contact can only be short-term. Even the hardened acrylic layer will dissolve from prolonged exposure to water. Moisture resistant acrylic sealant is not suitable for sealing or patching gutters. It is undesirable even to use mastic in the kitchen and in the bathroom.

Polyurethane mastic is based on polymerized resin. The sealant can withstand low temperatures. It is successfully used for sealing inter-panel joints, double-glazed windows in buildings with a swimming pool or winter garden.

There are two types of polyurethane mastic:

• Sealing paste intended for use on dry surfaces. This is a kind of sealant. Such a sealant will not work for gutters.
• Waterproofing pastecan be used in humid environment and even contact with water for a long time. This type of polyurethane sealant is suitable for gutter joints.

Often polyurethane mastic is used to seal the roof, but for these purposes a substance with a hardness index of PU 15 is used. The sealant is characterized by fast curing, resistance to moisture and chemicals, long service life. The solidified substance can be dyed with success.

Attention! Among other mastics, polyurethane sealant is considered the best for its versatility. The paste has excellent adhesion to wood, metal, tile roofing.

The only drawback of the sealant is its high cost. Because of this, polyurethane paste is practically not used when installing drainage systems.

The base of the mastic is modified bitumen. Due to the addition of a metallic pigment, some types of bitumen pastes have an aluminum tint. The scope of application of the sealant is wide: sealing and sealing chimneys, gutters, air ducts, ridge, and other structures.

Bituminous pastes are characterized by increased resistance to water and good elasticity. The mastic has increased adhesion to the wet surface of the object, and after curing it can be painted. Affordable price made the sealant popular in the installation of drainage systems. Among many brands, Icopal sealant is in high consumer demand due to its high quality.

There are bituminous pastes specially designed for roofing works... They are even resistant to gasoline, thinner, engine oil and other chemicals.

The disadvantage of bitumen pastes is considered to be an ugly black color, despite the addition of pigments. Plus - bitumen is afraid of impact high temperaturesfrom which it begins to melt.

Attention! All bitumen-based sealants are toxic. They are allowed to be used only for outdoor work.

Butyl based mastic is ideal solution sealing joints with a drain. The paste has excellent adhesion to aluminum, PVC, galvanized, well tolerates painting with latex and oil paint... White sealant is characterized by high elasticity, resistance to moisture and negative temperatures. In addition to sealing seams, the paste is ideal for repairing deformed gutters. Small cracks and even small holes can be sealed with a sealant.

Attention! The sealant can be used at low temperatures, but in order for the paste to be squeezed out of the tube better, it must first be kept at room temperature.

The instructions for using the sealant are simple:

• It is optimal to work with mastic at temperatures above +4 o C. Old accumulations of paint, putty and other dirt are removed from the surface of the workpiece. If the metal gutter is corroded, the rust is brushed on the metal. The completely brushed surface is left to dry.
• The tube aged at room temperature is inserted into the gun. There are notches on the plastic tip, each of which is designed for a certain thickness of the mastic extrusion. With a sharp knife, cut off the tip of the tip along the required notch, and also remove the membrane at the end of the thread of the tube that prevents the sealant from squeezing out.
• Having screwed the tip onto the cylinder thread, start squeezing the sealant onto the drain joint with the pistol trigger. When sealing holes with a diameter of more than 12 mm in the gutter, apply a tire made of a piece of plastic or metal.

The paste will start to set in 5 minutes. During this time, it is necessary to remove the protruding excess at the joints of the gutters, and where the patches were installed, the mastic is smoothed with a scraper. The joint will gain full strength in 5 days, but the frozen layer can be painted in a day. The sealant can also be used in humid environments, but the cure time is increased by 10%. The approximate consumption of sealant with a layer thickness of 6.5 mm is 10 l. M. If necessary, remove the frozen layer using a cleaner of the same company or any mineral solvent.

When it is necessary to use a sealant when installing gutters

The use of a sealant for connecting the joints of gutters is justified if they self-made... Often, due to cost savings, gutters are cut out of PVC sewer pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. The joints of each such gutter are fastened with self-tapping screws, and so that they do not leak, they are additionally coated with silicone or bitumen sealant.

Factory gutters are equipped with connecting locks with rubber bands. The strong connection does not leak, even without mastic. But for reliability, it does not hurt to lubricate the seal with the same silicone. Usually for 10 locks, the contents of 1 tube with a capacity of 0.3 liters are enough.

The video shows the process of sealing the roof and gutter:

Regardless of the quality of the gutters, depressurization of the seams will lead to a malfunction of the entire system. Saving on sealant is unreasonable and unprofitable.

The greatest damage to the walls and foundations of houses is caused by uncontrolled flows of moisture flowing from the roofs. Soft rainwater can wash the most stubborn decoration Materials... For external thermal insulation made of mineral wool or basalt felt, even a small stream of water can be a sentence. It is not difficult to prevent such problems if effective drainage systems and drainage are installed at the places of water drainage. Effective - this means that in any weather and the most extreme rains and winds, the safety margin and capacity of the drainage system and drainage system will be enough for the normal flow of water from the roof without boiling waterfalls.

What should be the system for collecting and draining water from roofs

Before you start developing and installing your own plastic drainage scheme, you should think twice and not reinvent the wheel, but buy a ready-made kit plastic pipes and gutters for gutters and from them to assemble the desired structure.

The system of plastic drainage and drainage of moisture from roofs must meet several specific requirements:

• The plastic structure of gutters and gutters must be installed on a strong and rigid attachment so that the weight of water or a mixture of ice, melting snow and water does not break the system supports and cause the gutters to bend;
• Set the angles of inclination of the gutter gutters, allowing the flow of water to drain quickly enough to the drainage funnel or snail, but at the same time there should not be shock tidal waves that can overlap the edges of the collectors;
• The joints of the gutters with the funnel, transition elbows, drainpipes must have tightness, rigidity and safety margin, so that in the event of a break in even one or two attachment points, the entire system retains its operability until the moment of repair.
• All pipes and gutters of plastic gutters must be resistant to corrosion, frost, moisture and solar ultraviolet;

Important! The most common "ailment" of cheap plastic fake gutter options is the appearance of a huge number of cracks from exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

The problem of fakes from well-known manufacturers very often confuses not only ordinary buyers, but even experts. Often, a well-known company sells the right to manufacture its products to Chinese or Vietnamese factories of plastic fittings, with the condition that the products are sold only in the CIS countries. As a result, in Russia you can buy under one brand and quality system drain, and a fake from crumbling plastic recyclable materials.

Which plastic gutter to choose and install on the roof of the house

Choosing the most effective system largely depends on financial capabilities and time. Most often, there is not enough money or time to make the right decision, so you have to choose:

1. If you have enough funds and opportunities, you can just buy the most sophisticated drainage system, which will be offered by the seller or "expert" in the salon;
2. It can be easier - choose a popular brand such as Döcke, RainWay, Profill or Eslon BV. It will be somewhat more expensive than buying on the market, and there is a chance to run into a fake, but in general, the structures of the plastic drain of these manufacturers have a good reputation, which is confirmed by available product reviews in the CIS;
3. Use the products of Russian companies or enterprises with foreign capital that create a reputation for high quality products - Murol, Vinylon, Alta-Profil, Rohrfit.

Alta-Profil products

The practice of working with the products of the companies listed in the last list shows that while any of them is at the stage of conquering the market, the quality of plastic roof drainage systems is maintained at the proper level, so you should not be afraid to take risks and buy high-quality plastic products at a reasonable price.

The Alta-Profile product list contains everything you need to assemble and install a roof drainage system. The company positions itself as a manufacturer of both individual components for gutters and the proprietary roof drainage system "Alta-profile".

If desired, the specialists of the company Alta-Profil can help to install gutters, subject to the purchase of systems for their development. The work of the installers Alta - Profile is estimated at about three hundred rubles per meter of installed drain. That is, the price of the service of the Alta-Profile specialist to install the gutter will be equal to the cost of a meter of plastic gutter of the same company. For those who wish, on the site there is a special calculator from the company Alta-Profile, which allows you to calculate the needs for material, estimate how much it costs to install a specific version of a plastic drain, and leave your feedback on the quality of the plastic drain.

It may be cheaper to just buy the necessary set of gutters from plastic gutters, pipes and elbows, and install the gutter on your own:

• Special configuration of plastic gutters.
• Pipes and bends for the formation of gutters.
• Drainage plastic funnel with rubber seals;
• A bell for straightening the flow of water in the right direction, this will ensure the correct drainage from the base of the foundation of the house;
• A set of brackets and fasteners to fix roof gutters and pipes to vertical walls of the house.

Note! According to the company, most plastic gutters do not have a circular cross-section, but a special profile in the form of a half-ellipse. This increases the rigidity of the structure and reduces the likelihood of overflow of water flow over the edges.

Alta-Profil experts guarantee the resistance of plastic fittings to frost and ultraviolet light. Polyvinyl chloride, in addition to its high resistance, has good resistance to erosive wear from sand and dust. That is, scratches and scuffs on the surface will appear, but it will be difficult to visually examine them, due to the painting of the plastic wall of the reinforcement to the entire depth of the material.

For situations where the roof structure of a house does not allow installing a sufficient number of fasteners and supports for gutters on the roof or rafter base, the company suggests using reinforced gutters with special profiled walls and reinforced sides. Thereby plastic gutter will not sag and lose the angle of the water drain.

Alta-Profil offers several options for colors and designs of gutters and pipes. For conventional gutters, a 11.5 cm wide gutter and a 7.4 cm diameter pipe are offered. For roofs with a large roof area, you can order a structure with a 20% increased capacity.

How to install a plastic drain on your own

Almost all drainage systems sold under brand names are designed for a simplified way of installing components. That is, it is possible to install gutters and pipes without using special machines for welding plastic. An exception is the support and bracket system. Before mounting, you need to establish their exact location on the roof or on the walls, observing a few simple conditions:

• Maintain the recommended angle of inclination of the gutters to the place where the funnel is attached;
• Set the distance of the drain pipe from the foundation at a distance of at least 400 mm.

At the first stage, the place for the suspension of the gutters and the line of inclination to the horizon are marked. The farthest point of the gutter system should be at the highest point in the catchment area. At this point, it will be necessary to install a plug on one side of the gutter. The second side is directed towards the collection point. From the attachment using a building level and a long ruler, mark the point where the next bracket is supposed to be installed. In this case, the attachment point of the next bracket must be set lower by a certain number of millimeters to comply with the angle of inclination.

After fixing all the brackets with dowels or self-tapping screws, you need to install plastic gutters and pipes. In the corporate design, they are assembled on rubber seals, snapping into the clips of the funnel and pipes, like in a children's designer. In cheap versions of the gutter, pipes and gutters can only be installed using sealant or branded glue.

The rigidity of the gutters must be checked. To do this, it is enough to install a load with a weight of 250-400 g in each span between the attachment points. This is the average load per meter of gutter when it rains. After a couple of hours, it is necessary to set the level and check the degree of change in the position of the pipes and gutters relative to the initial fastening. With high-quality fasteners, there should be no changes in the current slope angle.

First, the location of the drainpipes is determined. After that, in those places where the drains will be located, you need to install water intake funnels. Installation begins with funnels in systems in which the inlet funnels also serve as a gutter connector. In this case, there are devices at the ends of the funnel that tightly connect it to the gutter. For adhesive systems, this can be the place where the adhesive is applied or rubber seals for other types of plastic gutters. The funnels are independently attached to the roof structure using brackets. Therefore, it is with them that the installation of the drainage system begins.

Before installing the gutter, a hole must be cut at the place where the water intake funnel is attached. To do this, you need to apply a contour, cut a hole with a fine-toothed hacksaw and clean the edges. The funnel can then be attached to the gutter.

It is necessary to fix the brackets (gutter holders) at the distance recommended in the installation instructions. Typically, plastic gutters require a distance of 50-60 cm, but no further than 10 cm from the edges of funnels, couplings and corners. It is necessary to fix the brackets in such a way that the slope of the gutters towards the funnel is about 2-3 mm. To do this, the extreme holder of the gutter is installed at the highest point, a cord is pulled between it and the funnel, and, focusing on it, the remaining brackets are attached.

The holders must be attached to the wind (frontal) board. Make sure that it is level before installation. An unevenly installed frontal board can negatively affect plastic gutters and their performance. If at the time when you will be installing the plastic drainage system, the roof covering has not yet been laid, then the fastening of the brackets can be mounted on the rafter leg.

Usually, plastic gutter holders are used for mounting on a windboard, and metal holders for mounting to rafters. On average, one holder can carry up to 75 kg. Often this figure is misleading to many, and they take, in their opinion, the right decision in terms of economy - to install a smaller number of holders. This is one of the main mistakes when installing a drainage system. Because what matters is not the weight that the bracket can support, but the gutter support area.

If this factor is not taken into account, the consequences will be very deplorable: the gutters are twisted, then sag, and after a while they simply break off. Therefore, such "savings" will result in partial or even full replacement holders and gutters.

The level of the gutters is determined with a cord (the slope towards the funnels is about 2%). At the highest points, the extreme gutter brackets are mounted

Now you need to put the gutters into the holders, starting from the funnel. Insert the edge of the gutter firmly into the catch located on the edge of the gutter holder, then press down slightly to snap the structure into place. Tightly connect the gutters to each other using solders, special adhesives or connecting elements (depending on the type of system chosen). And do not forget that in systems with glued joints, after complete assembly, it will no longer be possible to dismantle or re-install.

In order to cut the gutters of the plastic gutter system, you must use a grinder or a hacksaw. Then clean the burrs with a file.

When installing the gutter, its edge must be located below the roof extension line. This will avoid the "overflow" of water in a rainstorm. Also, the minimum amount of snow sliding from the roof will fall there.

Installation of side caps and corner pieces

Now you need to fix the corners to the gutters in those places where you need to go around the protruding parts of the facade or the corner of the house.

Corner elements of the gutter are mounted in the same way as the funnel and gutter connectors.

After that, side plugs are attached to the ends of the gutter.

Installation of pipes starts from the funnel, that is, from top to bottom .. With a small roof extension, a coupling or a combination of one- and two-coupling bends are used. The pipes must be attached to the wall so that the distance between them is from 3 to 8 cm.

A pipe bracket is installed under the bend. When pipes are inserted into the sleeve, a gap of 10 mm is left to compensate for thermal expansion.

Using couplings, you need to assemble the pipes into one piece and attach them with clamps to the wall every 1-2 m (see the supplier's recommendations in the instructions).

If necessary, tees (pipe splitters) are installed at this stage. Tees are installed in the same way as couplings.

The distance from the plug to the gable of the roof or adjacent wall is at least 3 cm.

Leave at least 30 cm between the ground and the drain.If you plan to install a linear drainage system, then leave 15 cm.

The lower branch is glued to the pipe.

Tools required for the installation of plastic drainage systems

Gutters are mounted using the following tools:

1. Roulette.
2. Ruler.
3. Pencil.
4. A hammer.
5. Cord.
6. Hacksaw.
7. Screwdriver.

Temperature conditions for the installation of the drainage system

It is forbidden to install plastic gutters at temperatures below 5 ° C. Otherwise, the pipes may crack from mechanical stress when cutting or fastening. Many plastic gutters cannot be stored in the open sun in their packaging.

How to protect gutters from pollution?

When debris or leaves enter the gutter, the movement of water along the gutter is limited. Because of this, the system overflows, and in the future the walls of the building become wet, and over time, the foundation may also be washed away. To prevent such undesirable consequences, it is enough just to install the grate-leaf trap. And plastic gutters are protected from clogging by installing a collection of garbage and leaves directly into the water intake funnel.

How to protect gutters from icing up?

This phenomenon is fraught with deformation and collapse of the entire system. To prevent it, a cable anti-icing system is installed. First, it is necessary to calculate the power of the heating cable and the required number of its lines. The cable can be with a regulator or self-regulating.

How to protect drains from overflow?

To prevent overflow, when choosing a system, follow the recommendations of the manufacturer directly from which you will purchase it.

What to look for when installing a steel gutter.

All builders and engineers, as well as homeowners who are convinced of the effectiveness of the drainage system, will certainly unanimously agree with this.

Firstly, water flowing freely from the eaves of the roof will fall on the walls of the house, any material will suffer from this, be it brick, concrete, wood or cement plaster.

Secondly, moisture will inevitably seep into the ground, which over time can lead to subsidence of the blind area and even the foundation of the house.

Thirdly, in the absence of high-quality waterproofing of the foundation, water will enter the underground premises of the house - the basement or the underground, because of this, the structures will rot, and the microclimate in the house itself will deteriorate.

Finally, it is worth noting the decorative properties of the gutter, gutter and pipes - traditional architectural elements of the building, thanks to their presence, the house looks more aesthetically pleasing and solid. If your home still doesn't have a drainage system, it's not too late to install one. You can do this yourself, but it is better to turn to professionals, they will calculate based on the catchment area, required amount gutters and pipes, as well as their diameter, will select the necessary fasteners and parts to ensure the rigidity of the structure.

For the production of drainage systems, galvanized steel with a polymer coating, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), copper and zinc-titanium alloy are used today. Each of the materials has its own characteristics. Steel gutters are still the most widespread.

They are affordable, but when purchasing them, you need to pay close attention to the thickness of the metal and the type of polymer coating, the resistance to corrosion, mechanical stress, ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes largely depends on the latter. Quite actively use drainage systems made of PVC, they are inexpensive, non-corrosive, resistant to precipitation and UV radiation, as well as mechanical damage. Their weak side is the color fading under the rays of the sun; after 2-3 years, plastic gutters lose their appearance.

Pipes and troughs made of copper and zinc-titanium look respectable, besides, they practically do not corrode. However, the cost of such gutters is quite high, and they require the most careful handling, since both copper and zinc are soft metals.

What to look for when installing a steel gutter.

First, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material. During installation and operation, steel gutters and pipes are relatively easy to scratch and bend. In most cases, the original appearance of bent parts cannot be returned, they must be replaced. Deep scratches must be smeared polymer paint to avoid rust.

How do plastic drainage systems behave during installation and operation?

PVC drainage systems have proven themselves well. They, in comparison with steel, do not corrode, they make much less noise during rain. In addition, plastic has a "shape memory", that is, it is able to take on its original configuration after deforming loads. The presence of plasticizing additives allows PVC gutters to maintain high impact resistance even at low temperatures. However, plastic gutters also have weaknesses.

The main disadvantage is a significant change in size with temperature drops (the change in length is about 0.7 mm per 1 running meter with a temperature fluctuation of 10 ° C).

To level it, special compensating elements and constructive measures are needed. Not so serious, but unpleasant minus for owners - loss plastic parts the original color (the side of the gutters and pipes facing the sun becomes ashen over time). The more expensive the gutter, the higher its color fastness, cheap products lose their appearance in 2-3 years.

What is the best gutter for composite roof tiles?

Metal, especially copper or zinc-titanium (zinc alloy with a small amount of copper and titanium) will be combined most harmoniously with composite tiles. These materials are distinguished by a noble appearance, over time they become covered with a patina, but often they are already sold "aged". Copper and zinc-titanium practically do not corrode, however, copper, in comparison with steel, has a higher thermal expansion, which must be compensated for by constructive measures, for example, the use of special brackets. Often in the assortment of parts for such systems there are special fasteners with seals. The transportation and installation of gutters made of copper and zinc-titanium must be carried out with great care - if the parts are bent, it will be very difficult for them to return to their previous shape due to the softness of the material.

The drainage system includes a whole set of elements, first of all, gutters and pipes, as well as fastening brackets, connecting parts, plugs, corners, elbows, funnels, overflow stops, drainage ladders, mounting clamps, etc. gutters with a diameter of 125, 132, 150, 170, 180 mm and pipes - 82, 87, 90, 100,110 mm. The most common length of gutters and pipes is up to 4 m.

As for the rest of the parts, their availability in the kit depends on the manufacturer. The wider the range, the easier it will be to arrange a drainage system on a roof of a complex configuration. When purchasing brackets, be sure to ask what type of installation they are designed for and whether they are suitable for you - often you come across those that can be used only for fastening to the eaves overhang or only to the first row of the crate.

Pay attention to additional accessories, they will make the gutter more reliable. Thus, a special mesh insert that protects against fallen leaves will prevent pipe blockages. When making an estimate, consider all the elements you need - the total price of fasteners may be higher than the cost of pipes and gutters.

Details of the drainage system: 1-8 - gutter holders; 9.11 - gutters; 10 - gutter connector; 12 - plug; 13 - connector bracket; 14 - funnel; 15.16 - gutter corners; 17.19 - knees, 18 - branch pipe; 20-manifold pipe with spout; 21.22 - gutter overflow limiters; 23.24 - pipe clamps. 25 - pipe; 26 - tee; 27 - connecting sleeve; 28 - universal adapter; 29.32 - drainage trawls; 30 - clamp bracket; 31 - drain knee.

How to determine the size and number of gutters and pipes?

When planning a drainage system, you should focus mainly on the catchment area. This means either the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof slope, or the projection of the slope onto a horizontal surface. Any serious company has technical documentation, containing information on what catchment area pipes and gutters of certain diameters are designed for. So, German companies in accordance with the DIN 18460 standard determine the number of parts as follows:

from a roof with a slope projection area of \u200b\u200bnot more than 150 m2, water can be discharged through one pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a gutter with a diameter of 150 mm. It should also be borne in mind that the throughput of the pipe depends on the diameter, length and number of troughs that it serves. There are other factors that affect the drainage capacity, such as roof configuration, length and slope.

It is recommended to install the drainage system in two stages: hang gutters during roofing work, and install pipes after finishing the walls.

The first stage (installation of gutters).

1. Attach the first gutter holder so that the outer edge of the gutter is 30 mm below the roof slope line (support wedges are used to compensate for the slope of the wind board).

2. Set the last holder to the water level 20 mm lower than the first (total length of the gutter 6 m).

3. Pull the cord between the shelves of the outer holders and, guided by it, screw the rest of the holders.

4. Make the markings, use a metal hacksaw to cut the hole for the water intake funnel.

5. Glue the funnel and gutter plugs with dichloroethane adhesive.

6. Install the chute, sequentially snapping it into the holders.

Second stage (pipe fixing).

7. Drill holes in the walls, screw the brackets with screws 120 mm long and 6 mm in diameter, fasten the pipes to them with clamps.

8. From two elbows and a branch pipe, assemble the "swan neck". Attach the drain elbow using glue.

Water should be diverted from the house by at least 3-4 m. In no case should it be left to drain onto the blind area, then it will inevitably seep into the basement and into the foundation. Therefore, the gutter device will not bring the desired benefit. In addition to the drainage system itself, it is necessary to provide for a water drainage system. The easiest option is to arrange surface drainage along the blind area. This will require ready-made drainage channels with protective gratings made of corrosion-resistant materials (polymer concrete, plastic). If the groundwater at the site is high, a closed drainage system (for draining the soil around the house) with point surface receivers under the outflows of the roof drain pipes is preferable. Drainage systems allow you to direct water into roadside ditches or into a receiving well on the site.

Do I need to care for the drainage system in the winter.

In winter, the drainage system is exposed to heavy loads. Snow sliding down the roof slope accumulates in the gutters. The water formed during the melting of snow flows down there and forms ice. Icicles hanging from the gutters can deform the structure over time. Optimal solution problems - installation of an anti-icing system, consisting of heating cables. They are allowed along the edge of the roof, gutters and downpipes. But such a system is quite expensive and also requires certain energy costs. Therefore, it will be cheaper and easier to adhere to certain rules.

The first is to correctly insulate the roof, ensuring ventilation of the under-roof space.

The second is to place the gutter and pipe fasteners in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

An additional, but by no means superfluous, measure is to install snow-retaining bumpers along the edges of the slopes.

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