How to assemble a wall from foam blocks. Do-it-yourself construction of a partition from foam blocks. What tools you may need

Walls from a foam block are erected much faster and easier than from brick. However, this process requires strict adherence to technology, since foam concrete has a number of features. Therefore, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with this process in detail, which will allow you to avoid a number of problems during construction that beginners usually face.

External wall construction

Construction process of outdoor and interior walls slightly different. Therefore, below we will consider each operation separately.

We will conditionally divide the construction of external walls into six steps:

Foundation preparation

A house, garage, barn or any other building made of foam block needs a high-quality foundation. The latter is erected in the same way as when building walls from bricks or other materials.

As an example, let's briefly consider the strip foundation device. The instructions for filling it look like this:

Illustrations	Actions
	Site preparation: The site is cleared of the upper vegetation layer; Then the markings of the future structure are applied. For this, pegs are usually driven in and twines are pulled between them. The marking of internal load-bearing walls is also carried out.
	Trench preparation: Dig trenches along the perimeter of the site, as well as in the area where the bearing walls are located, to a depth below the freezing of the soil. The depth depends on your region, in central Russia it averages one and a half meters; Align the walls of the trenches. Their width should be 10 centimeters more than the thickness of the walls; Fill the bottom of the trenches with a layer of rubble 15 centimeters thick.
	Installation of formwork.Make the formwork from OSB boards or, for example, plywood. Secure the walls of the formwork with spacers and struts.
	Reinforcement.Make a reinforcement frame from two double chords located at the base of the foundation and 5 cm below the top level. Tie the belts with struts and jumpers. For the manufacture of the frame, use reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm.
	Pouring the foundation: Pour the prepared formwork with M200-M250 concrete; Level the concrete surface with a trowel. In this case, it is necessary to provide a horizontal plane; After three days, dismantle the formwork; After the concrete has set, treat the surface bituminous mastic and lay roofing material on top.

You can start building walls after concrete has gained strength. If the construction time is "running out", it is better not to pour concrete, but to use foundation blocks.

Preparation of foam block and other materials

First of all, I note that not all types of foam blocks, or aerated blocks, are suitable for the construction of load-bearing walls. Not everyone knows that the material is autoclave and non-autoclave.

For load-bearing walls, I recommend using autoclave blocks, since their quality is higher - they are stronger and have more accurate geometry. In addition, aerated concrete, like ordinary concrete, differs in strength grade. For load-bearing walls, it is necessary to use aerated concrete blocks of a brand not lower than M500 B2.5.

Often, houses are erected according to frame technology, in which the entire bearing load is assumed by the reinforced concrete frame or columns. For such walls, you can use blocks of the M400 or even 300 brand, since they, in fact, perform the same function as partitions.

In addition to the blocks themselves, you will need:

• Masonry mixture - it is advisable to use a special glue for gas blocks;
• Rebar with a diameter of 10 mm;
• U-blocks for bridging;
• Cement and sand.

When buying glue, pay attention to the date of its manufacture and expiration date. As a rule, adhesive mixtures cannot be stored for long. Expired adhesive can reduce the strength of the structure.

Instead of glue, you can use a conventional cement-sand mortar, but it will have to be applied in a thicker layer. Such a layer between each row will subsequently serve as a cold bridge.

As for the tools, you will need a standard masonry kit:

• Trowel and notched trowel;
• Level and plumb lines;
• Container for glue;
• Twine.

In addition, a hacksaw is required to cut blocks, as well as a special device for making grooves.

Related articles:

Laying the first row

Now we start building the walls. The first row is laid as follows:

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	Block preparation.If, for the sake of economy, you decide to use non-autoclave blocks, they probably have geometry defects. Therefore, try to remove chips and bumps with a hacksaw.
	Laying the first (lighthouse) blocks: If the foundation surface is not perfectly flat, find the highest corner and start laying from there; Apply a layer of cement to the surface of the foundation with a trowel; Lay the block down and level it. To correct the position of the block, use a rubber mallet; Lay the blocks on the remaining corners in the same way; Pull the twine-beacons between the blocks; Make sure the beacons are taut in the same plane. You can adjust the level of the position of the blocks with a solution. Cement mortar is allowed to level the differences not exceeding 3 cm. If the level of the differences is higher, it is necessary to "remove zero" with concrete.
	Stacking intermediate blocks: Apply cement to the surface of the foundation. Glue the end of the block with a notched trowel; Place the intermediate block close to the corner block and level its position.

According to this principle, the entire first row of blocks is laid.

Laying the second row and bandaging the corners

So, our walls have already started. Now you need to properly lay the second row. The principle is the same as when laying the first row - first, the blocks are installed in the corners, then the beacon cords are transferred to the row higher.

Do not forget to dress in the corners. If, for example, you laid the first block of the bottom row along the side wall, then in this corner, lay the block of the second row along the end wall. As a result, all the blocks will be displaced and you will get a dressing not only of the corners, but of the entire masonry.

This is how the third and fourth row of blocks fit.

Reinforcement of the fourth row

Every fourth row must be reinforced so that the walls can withstand the load that they will be subjected to during the operation of the building. Reinforcement is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Actions
	Execution of grooves.Make two grooves with special device along all the walls. Be sure to turn in the corners smoothly, i.e. as large a radius as possible.
	Reinforcement: Place the reinforcement in the grooves. Provide an overlap of at least 20 cm at the joints; Fill the grooves with cement mortar. The reinforcement joint should not be at the corners. Docking reinforcement is possible only on flat sections of the wall.

According to this principle, not only foam blocks are laid, but also other similar materials, such as polystyrene concrete blocks, expanded clay concrete blocks porous ceramic blocks, etc. The only thing is that these materials, unlike foam blocks, do not require reinforcement.

Thus, it is necessary to build up the wall to the design height. The main thing is, do not forget to reinforce every fourth row.

Arrangement of openings and armopoyas

To make window and door openings, it is necessary to make lintels. For these purposes, special U-shaped blocks are used, which are made in the form of trays.

Installation of jumpers is carried out as follows:

As a result, the opening will receive a concrete monolithic lintel, for which aerated concrete trays serve as formwork. By the same principle, an armored belt is performed for laying the ceiling or Mauerlat roof. We will talk in more detail about the structure of the floors below.

How to lay the floor

The overlap in the house from foam blocks can be any - wood, metal or slab. But, in any case, it fits only on the armopoyas. As with the installation of lintels, the minimum length of the platform on which the overlap should rest is 25 cm.

I must say that it is not necessary to use U-shaped trays to perform an armored belt. Ordinary formwork will work instead. Otherwise, the work is carried out in the same way as when installing ceilings on walls made of concrete or brick.

If used wooden beams, they must be waterproofed with roofing material. Also, remember to provide a thermal air gap of about a centimeter, as shown in the diagram above.

That's all the information about building exterior walls.

A few words about finishing and insulation

Do not forget that after the construction of the walls, it is advisable to finish the outside as soon as possible, since foam concrete strongly absorbs moisture. You can cover it with siding, brick or even ordinary plaster... If the walls are not finished in time, the process of their destruction will begin in the very first winter.

A new building made of aerated concrete shrinks for some time. Therefore for exterior decoration it is still preferable to use siding, which is not afraid of any wall movements.

Also, if you intend to operate a house in winter time year, perform wall insulation. It will also increase the longevity of your home. The only thing is that the insulation must be placed on the side of the facade.

From the inside, it makes sense to insulate the room only if it is not possible to do the work outside, for example, if you want to insulate the balcony in the apartment.

Why insulate walls? If this is not done, the dew point will be inside the aerated concrete. Accordingly, it will begin to dampen and deteriorate in winter.

Construction of an internal (bearing) wall from a foam block

Internal load-bearing walls are built according to the same principle as external ones. The only thing is to properly equip the node for their docking with the outer walls.

There are several ways to make a bundle:

• To full depth... In this case, the inner wall is erected in parallel with the outer ones. In this case, through the row, the block of the inner wall is laid on the outer wall;

• Part of the block... The principle is based on the fact that a nest is cut out in the outer wall for a block of the inner wall with a depth of 15-20 cm;
• Butt... Unlike the two technologies described above, such a bundle allows you to build internal walls, after the construction of external ones.

The principle is based on the fact that indoor units located right next to the outer wall. In this case, a pin is laid in every third row, which is pre-inserted into the outer wall and cemented. A piece of reinforcement can be used as a pin.

I must say that the first version of the bundle is the most optimal, since it is the simplest, and at the same time provides high structural strength.

Low density foam blocks can be used to equip non-load-bearing interior partitions. They are more durable than drywall, which will allow you to fix shelves or, for example, a TV bracket on the partition. In addition, foam blocks provide good soundproofing of the room.

After the construction of the internal partition, it is advisable not to plaster it for some time so that it shrinks. Plasterboarding can be done immediately.

Output

Now you know how to build a wall from foam blocks, and you can cope with this task yourself. And if you encounter any difficulties - write comments, and I will be happy to help you with advice.

The technology of building houses from foam blocks is of constant interest to builders and customers. The interest of the former is in the speed and simplicity of construction, because the more they built during the season, the more they earned. The interest of the customer, the owner, is in saving money both at the construction stage (buying foam blocks is cheaper and better, not overpaying for the services of builders) and during operation (compliance with modern heat-saving standards and comfortable living).

It is not surprising that the most frequently asked questions about the construction of houses from foam blocks in one way or another come down to the timing and cost of construction, the choice of foam concrete blocks, as well as to the performance of the house built.

Question. What determines the speed of erection of brick or block masonry? Answer. First of all, on the size, weight, ease of processing and geometry (dimensional stability) of the block.

Obviously, the larger the size of the foam block, the faster the construction is carried out. The most common size of a foam concrete block is 200x300x600 mm. It is easy to calculate that the volume of such a block is 0.036 cubic meters.

m. (which is equivalent to a masonry of 18 single, or 13 one-and-a-half bricks), and with a density of D600, it weighs, depending on the humidity, about 22-24 kg. It is impractical to increase the size and weight - these figures are already close to the maximum when the bricklayer is working comfortably, without excessive physical exertion.

By and large, the speed of construction from foam blocks is not decisive. Putting bare walls is no more than 10-15% of the total volume and cost of work in the estimate for building a house. But then you can build a house from foam blocks on your own.

It is easier for a layman to work with large blocks than with traditional bricks. And here speed begins to play a certain role: building a box of a house from foam blocks for a vacation is quite within the power of one person without experience of such work. In the case of bricks, this seems doubtful.

Question. How to check the quality of foam blocks? Answer.

The first parameter is size deviation. If you plan to build a house from foam blocks for glue, then the difference in block sizes should not exceed 1-2 mm per side. The more stable the dimensions of the foam blocks, the more even the walls can be built, and the cheaper and easier it will be to finish these walls.

The presence of cracks indicates either an incorrect recipe or an incorrect drying regime. Both reduce the strength and durability of the material. The presence of oil on the surface of the foam blocks negatively affects the adhesion of the blocks to the solution.

Problems can arise with masonry, and especially with plaster. When using standard plaster dry mixes, finishers can face the problem of poor adhesion of the plaster layer to the walls, “rolling” of the applied mortar, etc.

If you split the foam block in half, you can see its structure on the chip. A quality product has a completely homogeneous structure in texture and color. If it is clear from the chip that the foam block is looser in one part, and more dense in the opposite part, then this also indicates a violation of the foam block production technology, when the foam concrete, after pouring into the mold, stratifies.

Foam concrete is positioned as an economy class material. How can you save money when building houses from foam blocks? Is it at the expense of quality? Answer.

Foam concrete is 15-20% cheaper than its direct competitor - aerated concrete. In this case, cheaper does not mean worse. the main problem foam concrete is that the availability of technology has led to the emergence of many small producers who, for the sake of a few additional percentages of profits, go to technology violations.

For the sake of fairness, it should be noted that recently this factor has been declining, people choose more pickyly and trust only trusted manufacturers. If some enterprise has been producing foam blocks for several years already, this most likely indicates a good quality of production. Real reviews satisfied customers are the best advertisement and incentive for the development of the enterprise.

The work of laying foam blocks is cheaper than brickwork, since it requires several times fewer operations.

Foam blocks are easy to process. This is all the more important, the more complex the project of the house under construction. It is easy to build bay windows, non-rectangular abutments, arches, pediment bevels and other elements with a complex fit from foam blocks.

Ease of processing is important not only during the construction of walls, but also in decoration. Walls made of foam blocks are easy enough to gouge for laying hidden communications. For example, it is easy to hide water pipes in a wall built of foam blocks or to carry out hidden heating wiring.

Question. Are there any peculiarities in the operation of a house built from foam blocks? Answer.

A house made of foam blocks is completely similar to a brick house, only it is warmer and cheaper to build. And behind the decoration, the material of the walls is impossible to distinguish. The main thing in building a house from foam blocks is to choose the right manufacturer of wall blocks that has modern equipment, high-quality raw materials and competent technologists.

In the modern construction industry, various latest developments are constantly being introduced. One of the latest innovations of our time is foam concrete, which is used for the production of foam blocks. Construction country houses from foam blocks expands every day and there is a sufficient number of good reasons for this:

foam concrete walls "breathe" like wooden walls and for this reason are not susceptible to sweating; the porous structure of the material helps to retain heat in winter and cool in summer; excellent sound insulation; significant savings in heating; foam blocks are very easy to process; ecological cleanness of foam concrete; durability - over time indicators the strength of foam concrete is growing.

An indisputable plus was the fact that expensive components are not used in the production of foam concrete. To make it, you only need sand, cement, water and special foam. Thanks to this, the construction of cottages from foam blocks is much less expensive than using bricks and even wood for this.

The technology of building houses from foam blocks is also not difficult. Foam blocks are much larger than bricks ( the average size block is 600 * 300 * 200 mm), so the walls are laid much faster. At the same time, the use of lifting equipment for feeding the material up is generally not required, since one block, replacing about 15 bricks, weighs almost half as much.

Foundation

To begin with, it is worth noting that the lightness of foam concrete walls reduces the cost of building a foundation, it is much less powerful than for brick house... For a foam concrete house, it is recommended to erect a monolithic strip foundation, on top of which a layer of waterproofing is laid, and in width it should slightly exceed the thickness of the stones.

Laying of the first row of foam block

When laying the first row of foam concrete, an ordinary mortar is always used in order to be able to compensate for the almost inevitable unevenness of the foundation. Laying begins from that corner, which is the highest in measurements. A mooring cord is pulled between the corner blocks of each wall and then the first row is filled along it.

At the same time, the horizontalness of the masonry is carefully checked by the building level. If irregularities in the masonry occur, they are eliminated using a plane or sanding board, dust is removed with a brush. In addition, using a level, it is imperative to check the height of the corners of the house, the difference in measurements should not be more than 30 mm.

Laying of the overlying rows of the foam block

The second and all overlying rows are laid on the foam concrete glue.

After preparation, the glue mixture must be kept for at least 10 minutes, and then vigorously stirred again. The glue must be applied to the foam blocks with a notched trowel, first on the butt joint between the blocks, and then on the horizontal one. The thickness of the adhesive layer can be 2 to 3 mm.

The blocks are laid with the highest possible precision immediately after the application of the glue. The horizontal position of the laid stones must be constantly monitored. If deviations are found, straightening is performed with a rubber hammer.

Starting from the second row, the laying of foam blocks is carried out with dressing - the butt seams in adjacent rows should have a gap of at least 10 cm. If irregularities in the masonry occur, they should be immediately rubbed with a float.

Reinforcement of foam concrete walls

Reinforcement is necessary to reduce the likelihood of cracking of the masonry during the shrinkage of the house.

Reinforcement is carried out every 4 rows of masonry, starting from the first. For this, a reinforcing bar with a diameter of 8 mm or more is used. The corners of the house are reinforced with a smoothly rounded rod.

The reinforcement technology is as follows: metal reinforcement is laid along the perimeter of the masonry in pre-cut grooves (grooves) measuring 40 * 40 mm. Note that the distance from the outer edge of the blocks to the groove must be at least 60 mm. The strobes are cleaned of dust, filled with glue and fittings are fixed in them.

Above the door and window openings on the outside and inside of the masonry, metal corners are also installed with an average size of 50-100 mm (but the wider the opening, the larger the corner should be, the length of the corner should exceed the opening width by 600 mm or more). Installation of the corner is carried out flush with the vertical surface of the wall. Before installation, a groove is cut in advance in the wall to the size of the corner and greased with glue.

Additional Information

If, when laying the wall, it became necessary to lay a block of a non-standard size, then you should cut off the excess part with a hacksaw for foam concrete with the largest teeth; Foam concrete blocks are very easy to drill, so screwing a small screw into it will not leave any difficulty. Large screws carrying a significant load must be screwed into self-tapping dowels designed for foam concrete. Sockets for electrical outlets and switches can be easily drilled with a drill with a nozzle of the appropriate diameter, grooves for electrical wiring are made with a chasing cutter.

Facade finishing

The technology of building a house from foam blocks requires mandatory exterior decoration of the building facades. The impact on the surface of the foam concrete of the atmosphere causes it to darken, so the building does not look very attractive. Finishing can be done in several ways:

hinged siding cladding or decorative panels with the device of an air gap between it and the wall; facing with a finishing brick or stone with a ventilated gap; plastering the facade using special mixtures for foam concrete; painting with vapor-permeable silicone dyes with preliminary high-quality grouting of the joints between the blocks.

The first cladding method is most often used due to its simplicity and availability.

In the next video, you can clearly see what the technology of construction from foam blocks is:

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As an inexpensive and affordable material, foam blocks are widely used in the construction of residential buildings, garages, industrial and domestic premises. They represent a serious alternative to traditional bricks and allow for a limited time, without the involvement of hired workers, to build a building on your own. Not required vocational training, in order to build capital walls and internal partitions of the building from foam blocks with your own hands.It is important to know the technological nuances, observe a number of conditions so that the laying of foam concrete products is carried out quickly, to ensure the quality and durability of the building.

Having mastered the specifics of the construction of walls and partitions from foam blocks, the laying technology of which is quite simple, you can independently carry out the construction or control the correctness of the work by the builders. The technical data of this material favorably differ with a number of weighty advantages. It is necessary to understand where to start laying foam blocks. Not everyone knows what materials and tools will be required, how to work correctly, observing the main principles. Let us dwell on these issues in more detail.

Where to start laying foam blocks

High-quality laying of walls made of foam blocks is carried out subject to the following recommendations:

ensuring reliable waterproofing of the base of the building.

With the help of special waterproofing compounds or two layers of rolled roofing material, foam concrete walls can be effectively protected from negative influence moisture; performing masonry of foamed concrete products from the highest corner point. This will make it possible to form an even basis for the construction of main walls and internal partitions, subject to the control of horizontalness by the building level; fine-tuning the geometry of blocks with dimensional deviations. Eliminate sagging, remove burrs with a float or a special plane, and trim defective products with large chips.

To ensure high strength and reliability of the structure, prepare the foundation surface for wall construction in advance

Laying of foam blocks - necessary materials and tools

For masonry, prepare the following materials:

Aerated concrete blocks: Use material for heavy-duty solid walls with a density of D600, and foam concrete with D500 for interior partitions. Use products made by trusted manufacturers using industrial technology.

Pay attention to the presence of a certificate guaranteeing compliance with the performance characteristics. Sand-cement mortar. When mixing sand and cement, a ratio of 4: 1. Add plasticizers, if necessary, according to the dosage indicated on the package. Application available materials allows for low-cost laying of blocks with size deviations of up to two centimeters per increased layer of mortar.

The disadvantage is the increased thickness of the seam and an increase in heat loss caused by "cold bridges". Adhesive composition. A dry mixture of industrial production is offered in specialized stores in a ready-to-dilute form with water (0.2 liters of water per kilogram of mixture is introduced). The glue is mixed with a mixer to a uniform consistency, laid in a layer of up to three millimeters, providing high adhesion to the foam concrete material. This allows you to reduce the cost of preparing the mixture, to increase the thermal insulation of the walls by reducing the thickness of the joint.

The whole process of laying foam blocks is not difficult, but there are some mandatory nuances

When deciding which composition will be used for laying foam blocks, give preference to increased strength with a reduced seam thickness. DIY foam block laying is done using the following tools:

a hammer with a rubber nozzle, necessary for leveling foam blocks; a building level that allows you to control the horizontal rows; a square and a hand saw used for marking and cutting material; an electric drill equipped with a nozzle for mixing the binder; a trowel that ensures uniform application of the solution to the surface; a special planer and grater required for fine-tuning the geometry; a chasing cutter to facilitate the execution of grooves during reinforcement; a cord necessary to ensure the correct laying of foam blocks; brushes for wetting the surface of the building material with water.

When self-erecting the walls of a building, laying from foamed blocks is made according to a certain algorithm. Observe the sequence of operations:

Clean foamed concrete products from dirt. Ensure the correct geometry of the products by removing sagging and unevenness.

Maximum smoothness of the formed walls, which makes it possible to save on the absence of the need to perform subsequent leveling work

Check for a waterproofing layer on the foundation surface. If necessary, lay two layers of rolled roofing material, providing overlapping at the joints of 10-15 cm and a width exceeding the size of the foundation by 4-6 cm. Determine the highest angle of the base using laser level... From this corner, the foam blocks will be laid. Apply the cement mortar in a layer up to 3 cm to the waterproofing coating of the base using a notched trowel.

Lightly dampen the corner blocks with water using a brush. This will improve adhesion. Place foam blocks at the corners of the foundation, which are a guide when laying the first row. Provide an overhang over the plinth at an interval of 3-5 cm to protect it from moisture. Fix the mooring cord with nails on the extreme elements, preventing it from sagging. Lay the bottom row of blocks on a sand-cement mortar, allowing leveling unevenness of the foundation up to 2 cm.

Wet the surfaces with water, control the filling of all joints with mortar. During the laying process, compact the blocks with a rubber hammer, ensuring the size of the horizontal joint is 1.5-2.0 cm, and the vertical joint is up to 1 cm. Check the horizontalness of the bottom row with a building level. Remove irregularities and distortions using a special plane. Plant the blocks with a rubber mallet, if necessary.

Check the horizontal alignment with a building level

Make a groove along the axis of the wall with a wall chaser (along the entire length).

Lay the steel rods in the grooves, weld them. Pour with cement mortar, forming an armo-belt. Lay the second and other rows of blocks in the same way, using an adhesive composition. Shift the blocks half the width while tying.

Move the cord vertically, control the horizontal level in layers, eliminate irregularities. Reinforce every fourth level of masonry with steel bars. Place the rods in the grooves made. Steel mesh can be used. Build the inner walls, ensuring that they join the outer row for 50% of the block length.

Reinforce the joints with reinforcement. Form openings for windows and doors using ready-made foam block jumpers. Reinforce with reinforcement, fill with cement mortar. Fix removable formwork around the perimeter of the foam block box and the internal load-bearing walls. Place the reinforcement in it, fill it with concrete to a height of 20–30 cm. After the concrete has hardened, insulate the armopoyas, lay the floor slabs on it.

constantly moisten the products with water when working in hot weather;

prepare a cement-sand mortar or adhesive in small portions, which retain their properties for 1-2 hours after mixing; adjust the position of the blocks in the rows for 15-20 minutes, until the binder begins to harden; produce construction works at a temperature of 5-25 degrees Celsius, use antifreeze additives, if the construction is carried out at a negative temperature, plaster the building from foam concrete 30 days after the construction of the box, when the shrinkage process is over (2-3 mm per meter of wall height).

Conclusion

The technology of laying foam blocks, described in detail in the presented article, has been tested in practice and is available even for beginners who do not have construction skills. The increased dimensions of the products with a low weight allow you to quickly build walls.

It is important to use industrially produced foamed concrete blocks. High quality binders should be used and technological recommendations should be followed. This will ensure the stability and long service life of the structure being built.

Nowadays, the building materials market is replenished with new developments almost daily. One of the most notable innovations in recent years in the field of construction are foam concrete blocks, which are widely used in the construction of suburban real estate. Such widespread popularity is construction material got absolutely deserved.

A house made of foam blocks is strong and durable, as well as warm, which allows you to save on heating.

The use of foam blocks allows you not only to build a beautiful and comfortable vacation homebut also save a considerable amount of money. In addition, the technology of building a house from foam blocks with your own hands is not particularly difficult and is available to almost anyone.

Foam blocks and their properties

The structure of the foam block is porous and therefore it absorbs moisture like a sponge.

Today, the technology of building a house from foam concrete is gaining more and more popularity among the owners of suburban areas. And this is no coincidence, because foam concrete has many valuable qualities that help make the construction of a summer cottage or a country cottage simpler and easier, and the house itself is more convenient and comfortable.

Modern foam concrete has the following properties:

Walls made of foam concrete have the ability to "breathe", which makes them look like wooden walls. This property allows the foam concrete masonry to successfully resist sweating. The special porous structure of foam concrete helps it keep warm in the house in the cold season, and, on the contrary, cool in the summer. Foam concrete is an excellent sound insulating material. A house made of foam concrete is much warmer than in a house built of bricks. This allows its owners to significantly save on heating. Foam concrete is an environmentally friendly building material. Foam concrete blocks are easy to process and do not require any special knowledge or skills. The walls of the house, erected from foam concrete, have very high strength and durability, which only increases over time.

Diagram of the characteristics of the foam block.

Another huge advantage of foam concrete building blocks is their low price.

This is due to the fact that no expensive materials are used in the production of foam concrete. For the manufacture of foam blocks, only cement, sand and ordinary water, as well as special foam are needed. It is for this reason that the construction of suburban real estate from foam concrete blocks will require from the owner of the site not so much material investments as the construction of similar cottages made of brick or wood.

In addition, the very technology of building houses from foam blocks is not particularly difficult and therefore is available to almost anyone. Aerated concrete blocks have a significant larger sizethan ordinary brick, which greatly simplifies their use. Typically, the size of the foam block is 60/30/20 cm, so building a house from this material takes much less time and does not require large physical costs.

Foam concrete blocks are in demand in private construction, they are appreciated for their high speed and ease of laying, low weight load and good insulating properties. The cost of work when contacting professionals varies from 1200 to 3000 rubles per 1 m3, in order to save money, it is better to do it yourself. The technology for installing products is considered simple, but a number of rules are mandatory, it is important to familiarize yourself with them in advance.

The main requirements for working with this building material include:

• Laying on a stable monolithic base, reliably protected from moisture, at least 30-50 cm above the ground level.
• Reinforcement of rows with reinforcement - the first and every fourth.
• Laying an armored belt in the upper part along the entire perimeter of the bearing walls to tie the floor slab or Mauerlat roofing system.
• Exclusion of cold bridges: it is best to put on a thin layer of a special one, all jumpers and metal elements are insulated.
• Obligatory protection of structures made of foam concrete from moisture and steam.
• When erecting load-bearing walls, use blocks with the required strength grade (not lower than D400, preferably more).
• Verification of the certificate and geometric accuracy of products before the purchase.

Differences between glue and cement masonry

The final characteristics of the structure being built and the need for external insulation depend on the type of joint solution. There are two options: laying on special adhesives or on a cement-sand composition. In the first case, ready-made dry mixes are used (Osnovit Selform, Praktik Bergauf, Aero, Ceresit CT 21 and many others) based on Portland cement, quartz sand, modifiers and polymer powders, bred strictly according to the instructions. The advantage is the creation of a thin seam - within 1-3 mm, no more. This eliminates the formation of cold bridges; with the correct wall thickness, foam concrete blocks will not need insulation. Also, the advantages of using glue include the evenness of the rows, the ability to assemble products with your own hands, even in the absence of work experience.

The cement mortar itself is cheaper, but due to the inevitable increase in the thickness of the joints, its consumption increases and, as a result, the costs are not inferior to glue. The optimal proportions of PC M400 and sand are 1: 3 with a W / C ratio of 0.5. To improve mobility, it is recommended to introduce plasticizers (the cheapest is liquid soap). This option is chosen only in the case of poor geometry of the blocks, due to the different thermal conductivity coefficient of foam concrete and cement, bridges of cold and heat loss are inevitably formed.

Another reason for laying foam blocks on glue is an increase in the bearing capacity of the walls. The opinion that the greater the thickness of the seam, the more reliable the structure will turn out, is erroneous, such areas perceive loads worse and, in fact, are a weak link. It is also worth considering that when using self-prepared cement mortar even rows are obtained only from experienced masons, and their services are expensive. The time spent on kneading the glue or CPR is about the same, but in terms of saving energy for preparing the components, the first type wins.

Step-by-step instructions for laying foam blocks with your own hands

Before starting work, tools are prepared: a construction mixer and clean containers for distributing glue, a hacksaw for cutting, a rubber hammer, levels, a notched trowel, chasing cutters, a planer and grater, brushes or a special hairdryer for removing dust. Then they adhere to the following scheme of actions:

1. Preparation of foam blocks for installation: inspection, if necessary, leveling with a fine grater and cleaning from dust, cutting to the required dimensions.
2. Waterproofing the upper edge of the foundation. First, 2-3 cm of cement mortar is applied, on top of it you need to put two layers of roll materials with the longest possible service life. The width of the waterproofing layer must exceed the thickness of the future walls.
3. Laying of the first row of blocks - from the highest angle, exclusively on the cement composition. A taut cord is used to achieve the ideal level and is carefully checked. The first row is necessarily strengthened - in the laid foam blocks, two grooves are drilled equidistant from the edge, into which the mortar and metal rods with a cross section of 8 mm are laid (when agreeing on the reinforcement scheme with specialists, you can put thinner rods, but not less than 5 mm).
4. Installation of subsequent rows - from the corners to the center, with the bandaging of foam concrete blocks. The glue is applied with a notched trowel on the horizontal surface of already laid products and on the end of the placed ones. The foam blocks are slightly pressed against each other, if necessary, they are tapped in order to seal. The surplus is removed immediately, the same applies to the correction of offset foam blocks. Level deviations are checked on each row without exception.
5. Laying a monolithic reinforced belt along the entire perimeter of the bearing walls. There are two options: installation of formwork and pouring concrete mortar with simultaneous edge insulation or the use of special U-shaped blocks.

This guide is also suitable for the construction of partitions. In this case, the first row is tied to an even, clean and moisture-proof floor using reinforcement. Special ones left in advance at the corners load-bearing structures lighthouses help to correctly lay walls from foam blocks inside the house. If it is necessary to bind a new partition, dowels are used, extending 20 cm deep into the walls already in use.

To simplify the process and improve the quality of the connection, it is recommended to slightly moisten the foam blocks. It is important to put them as tightly as possible; when the rows are deflected horizontally, the products are sanded with a plane. Construction dust must be removed after each treatment, it affects the reliability of the connection of adjacent blocks. Work is carried out mainly in the warm season, at an air temperature of +5 to +25 ° C.

Possible mistakes

Violations of block masonry technology include:

• Lack of masonry mortar in vertical joints and the appearance of voids between products. Such an error is observed when saving the glue spread on the walls, it leads to the accumulation and freezing of moisture inside the walls of foam concrete. As a result, the risk of destruction of the seam or the block itself increases.
• Lack of dressing or insufficient displacement of products in subsequent rows. The recommended minimum is a quarter of the length, ideally they move exactly half.
• Correction of foam blocks after glue hardens or CPR setting. Any changes should be carried out no later than 5-15 minutes, deviations from the level are checked on each row.
• Refusal of reinforcement.

Most of the mistakes are made in the finishing process, the owners' understandable desire to close the foam concrete from moisture as quickly as possible must be properly implemented. Blocks shrink within 3-6 months, earlier plastering leads to cracking. To exclude the accumulation of moisture in the foam blocks, they are first carried out interior decoration and only then proceed to the facade.

Closing the outer walls with impermeable materials without organizing gaps is considered a gross violation; ventilated curtain systems or special plaster are best suited to protect cellular concrete grades.

The cost of laying foam blocks

The minimum price for 1 m3 of high-quality foam concrete suitable for the construction of load-bearing structures is 2500 rubles, the approximate consumption of glue per cube is 20 kg (about 150 rubles), and reinforcement is also added to the total cost of building materials when laying with their own hands.

Professional services cost no less than 1200 rubles for the installation of 1 m3, when erecting load-bearing walls, they reach 3000. The value of prices is influenced by the number of storeys, the type and size of foam concrete blocks, their geometric accuracy, and the overall complexity of the project.

The correct erection of foam concrete walls and partitions is reduced to the fulfillment of a number of conditions: the accuracy of calculations, the choice of foam blocks of the desired density and the appropriate adhesive composition + compliance with the masonry technology.

The latter is of decisive importance.

The speed and quality of building a house depends on how correctly the first row of foam blocks is laid.

Where to start laying foam blocks - two recommendations

1. provide good waterproofing of the foundation. Despite the fact that foam concrete has a low moisture absorption rate, waterproofing will maintain the integrity of the material longer;


2. maintain the horizontal row. We will describe this part of the work step by step in the form of instructions for beginners without construction experience, because it is the first row that sets the tone for basic construction.

The specifics of laying the first and then subsequent rows of foam blocks depends on the purpose and function of the wall. From this position, there are:

• load-bearing walls (internal or external, in single or multi-storey buildings);
• curtain walls ( interior partitions).

1. Laying of the outer wall from the foam block

Foundation preparation

The foam block is laid on a flat surface, alignment with glue is allowed, but only if the height difference is no more than 30 mm. If there are horizontal violations, it is recommended to level the foundation by applying a layer of sand-cement mixture, and then isolate it.

Preparation of the foam block

Laying begins with the preparation of blocks. Since the foam block does not differ in high accuracy of geometric dimensions, it is recommended to bring them into working condition. For this you need:

• eliminate irregularities that can affect the quality of the masonry;
• remove burrs. To do this, you can use a grater or drywall planer;
• eliminate chips.

If too large voids have formed on the surface of the foam block or large chips are present, it is better to leave such a block for trimming.

Laying the first row of foam blocks

The first blocks are laid in the corners. From what angle to start laying also matters. The first foam block is installed at the highest angle in relation to the rest. The layer of mortar under this block will be much thinner than under the foam blocks in other corners. With a flat foundation, the choice is arbitrary.

Corner or as the masters call "lighthouse" foam blocks serve as a guide for further work. Therefore, their installation is a laborious and responsible stage.

Note. When installing the corner block, make sure that it protrudes above the base at a distance of 30-50 mm. This indentation will prevent the accumulation of water at the ebb of the basement, and it will remain dry. This means that the masonry on which the bottom row is based will not be subject to destruction.

Correction of the installed foam block is performed with a rubber mallet.

A mooring cord is installed on the lighthouse blocks. The cord can be secured to the unit with a nail. It should be said that hardware does not hold well in foam concrete, but in this case, the nail will fulfill its function. If the distance between the corner blocks is more than 6 meters, it is recommended to install intermediate beacons. This will prevent the rope from sagging. Masters recommend installing beacons at the intersection of external and internal load-bearing walls.

It is more convenient to use a laser level for these purposes.

Foam concrete blocks of the first row are laid only on a cement-sand mortar. The solution can be applied in two ways: apply to the previous row of blocks and install a dry block on the glue, or apply glue to the surface of the block. The second option is rarely used, but irreplaceable when part of the block is inserted into a narrow gap in the masonry.

The mortar is applied using a notched trowel or carriage. A trowel can also be used, but it does not allow to maintain a given thickness of the mixture, which leads to its overrun or the appearance of places without a mixture.

Why is it necessary to use a cement-sand mixture for the first row? In order to level the height difference due to a denser overlay layer.

Masonry mortar must be applied not only to the horizontal surface of the row, but also to the side walls of the block. The vertical joint is also filled with mortar. Ignoring this recommendation is fraught with the appearance of voids in the masonry, which will allow moisture to accumulate in the seam gap and, in case of frost, will lead to the destruction of the seam or block.

The recommended thickness of the horizontal seam when laying the foam block on the mortar should not exceed 10-15 mm. (depends on the type of block), vertical seam - 8-10 mm. Naturally, the first row can be laid out using a special adhesive mixture. In this case, the thickness of the joints will be determined by the recommendation of the manufacturer of the mixture. But from the point of view of the economy of building a house, such a solution would be inappropriate.

Note. If you wet the block, the adhesion of its surface with the adhesive mixture will increase. This recommendation is especially relevant for work performed in the warm season.

Sometimes craftsmen save time and mortar and do not fill the vertical joint with glue. In this case, you need to carefully seal the seams on the front and seamy (inside) sides, leaving the middle empty. If you plan to plaster the house from aerated concrete, you do not need to fill the vertical joints at all.

If necessary, the foam block is trimmed to the desired size. Moreover, the block is less than 50 mm thick. looks ugly, you can eliminate this gap by varying the thickness of the masonry seam. The installed foam block can be adjusted within a certain time (determined by the type of adhesive mixture). Adjustments are made using a rubber mallet. Further elimination of irregularities is possible only by using a planer or drywall float.

Note. The first row of blocks must be reinforced.

Laying of the second row of foam blocks

The second and subsequent rows of blocks are also laid, starting from the corners with periodic measurement of deviations. In this case, the mooring cord moves one block higher and sets the exact direction of the masonry. For these rows, it is advisable to use an adhesive mixture for foam concrete. Due to the fact that the glue is consumed less, a certain cost and time savings are achieved. The block of the second row is placed on the block of the first row as tightly as possible so that the solution is squeezed out, which is removed with a trowel.

It should be noted that it is impossible to lay the foam block on the block with the intersection of the seams at an angle of 90 °. This weakens the masonry. To perform bandaging, you need to move the foam block at a distance of at least 25% of its width. Ideally, the ligation is done halfway through the block.

Foam block masonry dressing systems

In practice, a foam concrete house can be laid out both in one and in two rows. For example, a foam block with a size of 200x300x600 mm is too narrow for load-bearing walls, and a wider one is heavy, and it is inconvenient to work with it. This automatically leads to the fact that the foam blocks are laid in two rows with the obligatory bandaging of the rows. It is she who holds the blocks together and ensures the strength of the entire masonry.

Options for double ligation of foam blocks are shown in the diagram

When bonded, he periodically lays out a number of foam blocks, which are placed perpendicular to the main masonry. If the block is larger than the width of the wall, it is trimmed.

With a die dressing, the rows are laid parallel to each other and connected to each other using a flexible connection.

Sometimes, simultaneously with the laying of the wall, it is also finished with brick, then it is advisable to reinforce both materials using a metal mesh. Or do a brick ligation.

Laying corners from foam blocks

The corners also need bandaging. Corner laying of a foam block is performed in the manner shown in the figure, where 1 is a foam concrete block, 2 is a seam. The main requirement is that the masonry seam must fall exactly in the middle of the block. Offset is acceptable, but it affects the quality of the house construction.

2. Laying of the inner (bearing) wall from the foam block

We note right away that we are talking about an internal load-bearing wall, which is laid on the foundation, and not about a partition. To join together two foam concrete walls, you can use several techniques:

• bandaging to the full depth of the foam block. In this case, the block seems to be wedged into the masonry outer wall completely;

• dressing on a part of the block. Usually the block "sits down" in a place prepared for it. The wedging depth of the block into the masonry of the outer wall is 150-200 mm. depending on the block width;

• butt ligation, i.e. dressing is not performed, and the foam block is installed close to the block that forms the outer wall.

The masters are unanimous in the opinion that the first option is the most preferable. When using the other two options, additional reinforcement (with the introduction of reinforcement into the masonry of the outer wall) should be performed every 3-4 rows.

3. Laying of partitions from foam blocks - technology

The construction of partitions from a foam block is possible both at the construction stage and in an already functioning house. In the first case, the foundation will play the role of the base, in the second, the floor (concrete or wooden).

Sizes of foam blocks for partitions

For the installation of partitions, you can use foam blocks of the D300-500 brand, 100 and 200 mm thick. The choice of the thickness of the foam concrete block directly depends on the purpose of the partition. If it is intended to separate a heated and unheated area, a thicker (wider) block should be chosen.

Installation technology for foam concrete partitions

• the surface of the floor and walls is cleaned of debris and primed;

• markings are made on the floor, wall and ceiling. For this, a rope is used or an even strip is drawn with chalk (marker). Moreover, first you need to correctly make the markings on the ceiling, and only then, using a plumb line, transfer the markers to the floor. So the wall will be perfectly flat;

Council. It is convenient to use a coated (dyeing) cord for marking.

• the surface of the floor is covered with roofing material, it will play the role of a sound insulator for partitions or a special roll-on sound insulator (sometimes this stage is skipped);

• pieces of reinforcement are mounted in the floor surface. Their purpose is to support the first row of blocks;

• a cement-sand mortar or glue mixture is applied to a part of the floor and wall (in accordance with the dimensions of the foam block);

• the first block is installed close to the wall. Its installation is level-checked;

• installation of the first block of the second row also has its own specifics, it consists in the fact that the foam block must be "tied" to the wall. To do this, you can grind holes in the wall and bring reinforcement between the wall and a number of blocks. The length of the reinforcement is 200-250 mm. It runs into the wall at half its length. And you can use flexible reinforcement using, for example, EC-brackets for attaching a profile for drywall;

• the second row of blocks must be installed with mixing at least 25% of the block width;

• reinforcement of partitions from foam blocks is performed without fail: three lower rows of masonry, as well as every second (with a foam block of 100 mm) or every third (if the thickness exceeds 100 mm);

• if you plan to make two partitions at an angle to each other, it is better to think over the reinforcement in a timely manner. To do this, you can conduct construction at the same time or leave a part of the reinforcement rod for laying the second row in the first row;

• since the interior wall is not load-bearing, a thermal gap of 10-15 mm is provided between the ceiling and the last row of foam blocks. Its purpose is to level the possible shrinkage of the house. The gap is closed polyurethane foam... The foam is applied to both sides of the wall.

Note. With a gap not exceeding 50 mm, the masters advise not to cut the block, because it is difficult to cut off 35-40 mm of foam concrete (despite the fact that it is perfectly cut), but lay expanded polystyrene or dense foam between the wall and the ceiling

DIY foam block laying - video

4. Arrangement of openings in the house from foam concrete

Window or doorways, arches, columns, all these elements are typical for private construction. The use of foam concrete does not impose any restrictions on the arrangement of such structures. Moreover, in a place where, according to the plan, there should be an opening, it is not necessary to initially make even laying. It is quite possible to leave protrusions on half of the foam block, which are then easily cut off with a saw.

How to make an opening in the wall from foam blocks

The opening from above or along the entire perimeter is made using conventional foam blocks. They are laid on a base, which can be used as:

metal corners. The width of the corner is determined by the width of the foam block, and should be at least 2/3, or better half of its width. For example, with a block width of 100 mm, you need to use a 40x40 corner. The corner is inserted into the foam concrete wall at a distance equal to at least the length of one block;

bar reinforced concrete lintels. It should be noted that such a jumper is a continuous cold bridge and needs additional insulation;

removable formwork for the foam block, into which the reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured. The formwork is disassembled after the concrete has set. Supports must be installed under the formwork that support the weight of the structure. The supports are removed one month after the end of the work. During this time, the foam concrete lintel will gain the necessary strength. In the future, the strength of concrete will increase, making it an ideal material for the formation of openings.

The formwork can be installed for both straight and round openings.

Note. If the width of the opening is more than 1200 mm, it is recommended to form the opening only with the use of removable formwork. This eliminates the possibility of its sagging under the load of the house.

U-shaped aerated concrete block... The trough block must be reinforced without fail. Installation of the U-block is allowed only if the house is subject to exterior decoration.

5. The device of floors in the house of foam blocks

After laying the last row of foam concrete, it is time to form a reinforcing belt. The armopoyas device consists in the manufacture of removable formwork with subsequent reinforcement and concrete pouring. The formwork is installed so that the width of the belt is equal to the width of the foam concrete wall, and the height reaches 200-300 mm (depending on what will be installed on the armopoyas). The connected reinforcement is placed in the formwork and poured with concrete. A reinforcing belt, like a foundation, is made around the entire perimeter of the house from foam concrete, including the internal load-bearing walls.

Note. The entire belt is filled in one go. The concrete is covered with a film to ensure that it cures evenly.

Hollow reinforced concrete slabs, wooden floor beams or a Mauerlat, on which the rafter system is mounted, are installed on the armopoyas.

• a sand-cement mixture or glue for foam concrete is prepared in small portions. The bonding (adhesive) characteristics of the solutions correspond to those declared within 1.5-2.5 hours after manufacture (mixing);

• the installed block can be corrected within 5-15 minutes. (depends on the manufacturer of the glue). If you are laying foam blocks with your own hands, then it is better to use the solution, the adjustment time for which is longer. In practice, this means that the work will take longer, but the likelihood of ruining the masonry is less. After all, the foam block, provided that good glue is used, can be dismantled (knocked out) only with damage;

• the right time for laying foam blocks is spring and autumn. Optimally, when the surface of the block has a temperature of +5 to +25 ° C, otherwise, you need to use masonry mortars with antifreeze additives;

• to simplify laying, foam blocks need to be moistened. Thus, dust is removed from the block surface, which increases the adhesion of aerated concrete;

• it is better to apply the glue with a notched trowel;

• a rubber hammer is used to level the block, and after the glue hardens, a plane or grater;

• each row is checked with a level and a plumb line;

• when reinforcing the rows, the reinforcement is laid only on glue, thus, voids under the reinforcement are excluded.

Note. You can start further decorating a house made of foam concrete with plaster a month after the walls have been erected. This is due to the significant shrinkage rate of the foam block cottage - up to 3 mm per 1 running meter.

The cost of laying foam blocks per m3 and piece

• the price for laying foam block partitions starts from 230 rubles / sq. The cost is determined by the complexity of the masonry and the configuration of the wall, openings;

• laying load-bearing (external or internal) walls made of foam concrete will cost the customer much more.

Examples of calculating the cost of masonry are given in the table

Conclusion

As you can see from the article, even a beginner who has no practical experience in construction can put the foam block with his own hands. Thanks to the size of the foam block, the work will progress quite quickly. The main thing is to carry out the laying of foam blocks correctly, in compliance with the technology, this guarantees that the house will serve without overhaul for a long time.

Until recently, ordinary brick or drywall (a two-meter sheet of durable gypsum-filled cardboard) was widely used for the installation of partitions. But brick is too heavy a building material, and its delivery to multi-storey buildings without a freight elevator is difficult. And drywall does not have great strength and good sound insulation.

The device of partitions from foam blocks

IN last years in construction, a more modern and practical material - foam concrete and foam blocks made from it, which are perfect for the installation of interior partitions. This building material has a whole list of priority qualities, is he:

• relatively lightweight with impressive dimensions;
• has good heat and sound insulation;
• easy to handle, flexible for cutting holes, pipe and wiring channels;
• easy to saw with a hacksaw, ideal for the embodiment of all kinds of design ideas, for creating arches and any configurations;
• is thick enough to form a doorway in the wall;
• has a flat surface and is perfect for any decorative finishing, primers, tiling, plastering, wallpapering;
• resistant to sun, moisture, temperature changes and active biochemical substances;
• has an affordable cost.

Such excellent characteristics make foam blocks an indispensable building material for organizing partitions in houses, apartments, offices and industrial premises.

Only disadvantage blocks of foam concrete - not always the ideal shape. Therefore, it is preferable to purchase this material from large manufacturers, where product quality control is more thorough, and the geometric shape of the blocks meets standard standards.

Varieties of foam blocks: their size and thickness

To build a solid partition that will last a long time, you need to understand the types of foam blocks... First of all, one must understand that foam concrete blocks with different density... For the construction of external walls, foam blocks with a density of at least D 300-500 are used. Internal partitions can be built from less durable foam blocks.

In addition to density, this material is different and by manufacturing method... There are autoclave and non-autoclave methods. The latter is more often used by small enterprises that are not of good quality due to poorly adjusted technical control.

The non-autoclave manufacturing method creates an uneven porosity of the material. As a result, a partition made of such blocks shrinks about 3 millimeters on a section of a wall 1 meter high, therefore, a partition made of autoclaved foam blocks will be much stronger.

This material is also different by stamping method, it can be cutting or forming blocks. In the first case, blocks are cut from foam concrete with a special circular saw. The result of this manufacturing method is the geometric evenness of the edges and perfectly matching block sizes.

With the method of manufacturing by molding, liquid foam concrete solidifies in special forms. And although all forms standard sizes, block sizes may vary. This is the minus of molding.

Therefore, when purchasing material, it will be completely natural to give preference to foam blocks made by cutting.

Separately, it is worth highlighting the issue of the size of foam blocks for partitions. Usually, for the construction of interior partitions are used blocks with the following parameters:

• different thicknesses 50, 75, 100 or 150 mm;
• height and length - standard 300 mm x 600 mm;
• weight depends on thickness and density 5.5 kg - 16.2 kg;
• optimal density D600.

Foam blocks with such parameters are suitable for partitions of any height.

More commonly used blocks 100 mm thick. Despite the small thickness, interior partitions made of foam blocks are durable, with good sound insulation and fire resistance characteristics.

Tools and materials used for laying foam blocks

Before starting work on the construction of a partition from foam blocks, you need to prepare set necessary materials and tools:

• glue for foam blocks at the rate of 15 kg per 1 cu. meter (with a layer of 2 mm);
• cement mortar for laying the bottom row;
• mounting foam for foaming the gap between the upper row and the ceiling;
• foam gun;
• pins - self-tapping screws, metal embedded pins;
• spatulas and trowel;
• a drill with a mixer for mixing glue and cement mortar, a container for glue;
• a hammer with a rubber pad for aligning blocks when laying;
• construction laser or ordinary level;
• corner, hacksaw for cutting blocks;
• a planer or grater for foam blocks to level the surface before finishing;
• electromill or wall chaser for making holes, grooves in the partition;
• large-width brush for sweeping away concrete dust lines before applying the adhesive.

After preparing everything necessary for the construction of a wall partition made of foam blocks, you can proceed directly to the beginning of work.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step plan for erecting a partition from foam blocks

How to build a partition from foam blocks? In order for the partition to be smooth and of high quality, when building it, it is important to observe the sequence of construction technology and be extremely careful. For tighter laying, the foam blocks should be wetted.

1. Firstly for the strength of the erected partition, reinforcement pins must be installed in the load-bearing floors at intervals - one pin for 2-3 rows.
2. Draw the lines of the future masonry on the floor and walls, mark the doorway, if planned.
3. Reinforce the metal profile along the marked lines to ensure that the blocks are laid flat.
4. Before laying out the first row of a partition made of foam blocks, it is imperative to clean the base from construction dust and debris, then apply a primer.
5. After the primer has dried, you can begin to dilute the glue, following the instructions. The glue should be thick enough so that the mixer left in it does not fall off, and at the same time, thin enough so that the remaining glue falls freely from the mixer.
6. First row of blocks along metal profile strengthens in two ways:

• if the base is concrete, the blocks are laid on a cement mortar;
• on the finished flooring, the blocks are fixed with self-tapping pins.

Each even row must be started with half a block so that the rows lay in a checkerboard pattern and the vertical seams do not coincide (dressing).

Before applying the glue, the surface of the rows is leveled with a plane or float, after which the cement dust is swept away with a wide brush.

Subsequent rows are laid on the prepared adhesive solution, which is applied in such an amount that, after installing the blocks, it is slightly squeezed out on both sides.

Then you need to grind the block to the upper edge of the previous row and to the neighboring blocks, this technique will avoid wall shrinkage in the future.

Don't forget periodically check the vertical using a plumb line or level.

If it is necessary to form a doorway in its upper part, an overlap is made from wooden beam or 2-3 steel rods of reinforcement, on which foam blocks are laid out "at random". Parts of the foam blocks protruding on the sides of the opening are cut off with a hacksaw after the masonry has dried. (In the same way, a window opening is formed, if necessary).

After the partition has been erected, it should dry out within 48 hours, for this time it is left alone, then the guide profiles can be dismantled.

After the masonry has dried, a small gap left between the last row of the partition and the ceiling surface is filled with foam with a continuous line along the entire perimeter on both sides of the partition. Excess foam is carefully cut off after it dries.

For facing with decorative tiles, the surface of the wall does not need to be prepared; the tile is well attached to the porous structure of the foam block with a special tile adhesive.

Before pasting the wallpaper, the partition is primed, plastered and leveled with several layers of putty.

So, summarize: interior partitions made of foam blocks are simple, economical, fast and very convenient way division of an office, industrial or residential premises into separate boxes.