Insulate the ceiling of the house from the outside with your hands. Insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof - choose one of the methods. How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof
The ceiling is the area in the room that is responsible for the preservation of heat. After all, heat rises, and if the ceiling is defective and there are no obstacles in its path, then it slips out. Insulation of the attic space is possible, and now we will look at how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side in various ways.
The need for insulation
Attic insulation in the private sector will be required in the following cases:
- The house is being prepared for construction and the ceiling consists of beams only.
- A residential building, but the ceiling needs to be insulated, as it allows cold into the premises.
- In the attic, the temperature is much lower than in the living room, and so that the heat of an unheated room does not go outside, it is insulated.
Types of heaters
When insulating the ceiling, the following materials are used:
- Sawdust.
- Expanded clay.
- Clay.
- Reeds.
- Seaweed.
- Ecowool.
- Penoplex.
- Minvata.
- Polyurethane foam (foam).
Let's consider each material separately.
Ceiling insulation methods
What are the principles of attic insulation? It's no secret to anyone that the best insulation is air. In the current thermal insulation materials there is air, which is enclosed in a form in different ways.
Since the experience of the last century, the air that is locked in the attic has been an excellent insulating "material" as it changes with seasons or weather conditions.
The floor of the attic was insulated with a natural bulk substance. And all this helped to keep the temperature inside the heated room up to + 25 ° C. The positive thing is that these materials do not get damp in the attic due to regular ventilation.
Sawdust
Smear the cracks in the wooden floor with watery clay, pour sand on top, but if the clay cracks in some place, then sand gets into the cavity and the integrity of the coating will not change. Further, the main layer is sawdust (thickness can be either 15–20 cm or 25–30 cm). Sawdust is a combustible material, in order to protect it from fire, a layer of waste slag is poured on top. Boards are laid on top of the slag, for the convenience of walking on the floor.
To protect the sawdust from pests (mice), fill in a layer of slaked lime, mixed with carbonite.
The floor must be protected from excessive moisture. To do this, lay a waterproofing film on the wood floor with the possibility of steam passing from the edge of the living space, or cover the floor with clay, mix sawdust and cement (10: 1, where 10 parts of sawdust, 1 part of cement) and then add 1.5 parts of water . Pour the resulting mixture on the floor of the attic or between the beams of the subfloor. This work is best done in the spring, so that the cement with sawdust dries well in the summer. After drying, the sawdust does not break through, but crunch a little underfoot.
Expanded clay
Expanded clay is a heavy substance, it is used to insulate ceilings from concrete floors, because there is a possibility that a wooden ceiling may collapse under the weight of this insulation.
Insulation of the ceiling from the side of the attic begins with a vapor barrier film. It is necessary to cover it with an overlap, and glue the joints with adhesive tape. The overlap on the walls will be up to 50 cm. The wooden rafters and the chimney are pasted over with the same film.
The next step is to place the mixed clay. Further, on top - expanded clay.
In order for the heat-insulating material to be durable, you need to take small and large expanded clay (the fine fraction will perfectly fill the voids, then the backfill will become homogeneous). In cold climates, expanded clay should be laid in a layer of at least 500 mm.
A sand-cement screed is laid on top of the expanded clay in a layer of 50 mm. The solution is quite thick. After drying, such an attic is used as a boiler room. It is fireproof and environmentally friendly.
Clay
Clay in its pure form is not used as a heater, because for the effective operation of thermal insulation, such a layer must be at least 50 cm. For this reason, clay is mixed with straw or sawdust.
Initially, a vapor barrier film is laid on the floor, impermeable to moisture (at that time, a sawdust-clay solution is being prepared). Then add 5 buckets of clay (1 bucket approximately 10 liters) to a barrel with a large capacity.
Clay, being in water, should be almost all dissolved. Pour part of the mixture into the concrete mixer little by little and throw in the sawdust. When mixing the whole consistency, gradually add water.
The solution should be neither thick nor liquid. It must be applied to the ceiling with a layer of 20 cm. The entire surface is leveled and left to dry completely (if cracks occur, they are again smeared with clay).
reeds
A good option would be to insulate the attic in wooden house reed mats. Such mats are interconnected by wire or twine, stacked on top of the floors. It is better if they are laid in two layers, so that the cold will not be passed into the premises of the house.
Seaweed
Algae is a natural insulating material. You can buy them in coastal regions at affordable prices ordering home delivery. Seaweed will not get rodents, they are anti-allergenic, do not burn or smoke.
Due to the fact that the algae is not afraid of moisture, it is not vapor barrier. Ladders are laid on the floor from it, in a layer of 20 cm, and boards are equipped on top.
Ecowool
Cellulose wool (ecowool) is an excellent natural substance that ensures the preservation of heat. Fireproof due to processing boric acid. It perfectly absorbs moisture, for this reason it is not necessary to lay a vapor barrier film. Cellulose wool is laid on both wooden and concrete floors.
With the help of a blowing machine, ecowool is blown into the cracks. The layer, in such a heater, comes out saturated and whole, with an air "prisoner" inside.
A layer of ecowool of 25 cm is sufficient, but in most cases the thermal insulation layer of the attic floor is 40–50 cm. When applying ecowool, at the end of work, water can be sprayed to increase the formation of a solid layer.
Penoplex
Penoplex is polystyrene foam with excellent strength properties. It is used when warming the concrete floor, before the concrete floor is poured. Such material is not used for wooden floors, because it will not “breathe”, as a result of which fungi and mold will appear on the tree.
Before laying, the attic floor is leveled, after which the vapor barrier material is laid. Next, the plates are laid out with a run, and the surface is fixed with dowels with a cap. Fill the joints with mounting foam, and when it dries, fill it with a sand-cement screed in a layer of 5 cm.
mineral wool
The most popular insulation material is mineral wool. It is available in rolls and in rigid boards.
Between wooden beams vapor barrier material is laid (since mineral wool is incompatible with moisture). The film is spread with an overlap, gluing the joints with adhesive tape.
From the side of the walls, an allowance of 150-250 mm is made. After that, rolls of cotton wool are placed in a thickness of 200–250 mm. The rolls should enter the space with little effort, cut with a margin of 20 mm (greater than the distance of the beams). Then the mineral wool is covered with wooden boards (with a gap between the board and the wool of 3 mm).
If the concrete floor, then the concrete floors are leveled, then a vapor barrier film is covered, and tiled mineral wool is laid on top of it. Then the flooring is equipped with wood, plywood or other materials.
Do not screed on mineral wool, as concrete has poor vapor permeability, because of this, the main rules of thermal insulation will be violated.
Polyurethane foam (foam)
Polyurethane foam is a non-combustible insulation material, neutral for insects and microorganisms, has good soundproofing and waterproofing properties, tolerates temperature changes perfectly, with no cold bridges.
The material is sprayed under high pressure. So, it gets into all the cracks, enveloping all the protruding elements. The layer of such material is 100–120 mm.
The process of insulating an attic in a private house is simple, the main thing is to figure out what kind of material for insulation is most acceptable in your case.
Video
You can learn more about how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side by watching the video:
Scheme
The schemes proposed by us will help you to insulate the ceiling with high quality:
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How and what is better to insulate the ceiling in a private house
In order to keep the heat in the room, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation measures. 15% of all heat loss occurs through the ceiling. Before you carry out the insulation of your ceiling in a private house with your own hands, you need to correctly select the material and familiarize yourself with the technology of work. Activities can be performed in several ways, it all depends on the type of insulated ceiling.
Ways to perform work
The ceiling insulation technology assumes the existence of only two installation options:
- outside the premises;
- from inside the room.
When choosing between them, several factors are taken into account. The article deals with holding events in a private house, it is worth remembering that the insulation in the apartment is carried out according to the same principle, but the work can only be done from below, since the insulation from above affects the upper apartment or attic - the common house area.
Outside ceiling insulation scheme
Most often in apartment buildings insulation required to improve sound insulation floors or thermal insulation of the ceiling of the last floor.
In a private house, the choice of method is limited only by the decision of the owner of the house. Carrying out measures for interfloor ceilings (as sound insulation) is not required, they carry out thermal protection of the ceiling of the last floor in the presence of an unheated attic. It is worth noting that a competent option is the thermal insulation of the ceiling from the outside, from the side of cold air. This has the following advantages:
step by step process ceiling insulation mineral wool- in addition to the room, the floor structure is insulated, which increases its service life;
- ceiling insulation from the attic side does not reduce the height of the upper floor;
- the work does not require serious efforts (when fixing the insulation from below, you must constantly keep your head up and use a ladder or other means of access);
- at different ways thermal insulation measures, the location of the dew point (condensation point) changes, when warmed from the side of warm air, it enters the thickness of the floor pie, which can cause problems in the future;
- method does not affect interior decoration premises, if in the future it is necessary to replace the insulation, the work can be carried out quickly and without additional financial costs.
If necessary, the ceiling can be insulated from the inside.
Insulation from the attic
Thermal protection from the side of cold air is best carried out with materials that have high density and rigidity. An attic is a space in which it is necessary to provide access for the passage of a person. If compressible, fragile material is laid on top of the attic floor, it may crumple, deform or collapse and cease to perform its functions. When choosing a heater for this method, strength is as important as thermal conductivity.
The scheme of insulation of the ceiling in the attic Before you insulate the ceiling in a private house, you need to familiarize yourself with the order of work:
- The attic space is cleared of debris and dirt. The insulation must lie on a clean and even base.
- Space is measured, calculated required amount thermal insulation material.
- Depending on the material chosen, a vapor barrier layer is provided. It must be laid on the side of warm air relative to the heat insulator. Not all materials need vapor barrier if the insulation is resistant to moisture and has a low moisture absorption coefficient, additional measures not required.
- Laying is carried out in two ways, the choice between which depends on the strength of the purchased material. If thermal protection is carried out with a high-strength insulation, it can be laid under a cement-sand screed. To increase the reliability of the structure, the screed is taken with a thickness of at least 2 cm and is additionally reinforced with wire reinforcement with a diameter of 3-4 mm. If the strength of the heat insulator is not high enough, installation is carried out between the lags. Availability wooden frame allows you to remove the load on the floor of the room from the insulation and transfer it through the bars to the ceiling.
- After installation of the heat-insulating layer, waterproofing is provided. It will prevent the insulation from getting wet from the outside. Water in the attic can appear during roof leaks or liquid spills, waterproofing in case of unforeseen situations protects the heat-insulating layer from loss of performance. The simplest material for waterproofing is polyethylene film.
- The next step is the installation of the floor pie.
Warming from the inside
Before you insulate the ceiling, choose a fairly light material. In contrast to the installation of thermal protection from the outside, the insulation of the ceiling from the inside does not require the use of durable heat insulators. In this case, they try to choose the insulation that will hold securely on a horizontal surface. The smaller all the layers, the easier it is to mount it.
An example of correct and incorrect installation of insulation To understand how to properly insulate the ceiling in this case, you need to familiarize yourself with the order of work:
- As with the previous method, first the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. Calculate the required amount of material.
- Next, the installation of a wooden or metal frame. If during installation from the outside it can be laid without additional bars or boards, then when installing from below, it is better to ensure reliable fastening. The ceiling structure is subsequently attached to the frame. Used as frame elements wooden planks or bars or aluminum ceiling profile.
- The insulation is placed between the guides. Mounting can be glued to the ceiling or using fasteners to the frame. Both of these options are often used together.
- The final stage is the installation of the ceiling.
Materials for insulation
The choice of thermal insulation layer depends on the method of insulation and the financial capabilities of the owner of the house. To answer the question, what is the best way to insulate the ceiling, you need to distribute the materials that can be used for each case.
For the top method use:
- rigid mineral wool boards (for more details, see the article “Insulation of your ceiling in a private house with mineral wool”);
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- polystyrene of high strength grades, placed between the lags or under a reinforced screed;
- polyurethane foam (only between the lags);
- sawdust;
- expanded clay.
The last two options are suitable for those who care about the environmental component of construction. Expanded clay and sawdust are an inexpensive and natural option for thermal insulation.
When insulating the ceiling from the side of the room, you can use:
- Styrofoam;
- mineral wool in mats;
- polyurethane foam.
These materials are lightweight and are fixed without problems. Before you properly insulate the ceiling, you need to prepare.
Examine the advantages and disadvantages of each material and make right choice. A careful approach will allow you to perform insulation for many years.
domzastroika.ru
We warm the ceiling in a house with a cold roof
Insulation of the ceiling in the house with cold roof
Builders often charge a lot of money for work on roof insulation. This is motivated by the fact that these are labor-intensive works that are carried out on weight. To save money, insulation mansard roof wooden house you can do it yourself. Special qualifications are not needed here, special equipment is not required. And it doesn’t matter if your roof is made of ondulin, metal tile or slate, gable or broken structure. However, modern insulating materials and proven cold roof insulation technology have many nuances that you need to know.
It is not difficult to make the roof warm, and the premises of a private wooden house suitable for year-round use. The main thing is to create good conditions to keep the heat inside the attic. How to insulate the roof, what materials to use, we will consider in this article. Insulation issues can be addressed both during the construction of the house, and after, by reconstructing the upper floor.
Features of a cold roof
In accordance with the laws of physics and convection processes, warm air masses rise to the top. In the presence of cold roof of a wooden house, all the heat will go outside. Such heat losses make it necessary to additionally heat the premises in the house, spending electricity or fuel. Therefore, high-quality insulation of ceiling slabs is the most important task for preserving heat, rational use coolants and creating a microclimate in the house.
Warming mansard roof
Cold refers to the construction of a gable or broken roof, which does not have a multilayer structure. In such inexpensive and simple roofs, there is no waterproofing, vapor barrier and thermal insulation.
cold roof insulation
The design scheme of a gable cold roof is very simple - as a rule, a floor of boards is laid on the beams of a wooden floor, and the roof is made of slate or metal tiles, without any insulators. In order to properly insulate a cold roof, you need to know what requirements apply to the design of the ceiling of the upper floor and attic floors. And also you should choose the right insulation material.
Scheme of gable roof rafters
Requirements for roofing
When starting to insulate a roof made of ondulin, slate or metal tiles, broken or hip, you should know what building codes and rules exist for the floors of a private wooden house. In order not to violate the basic parameters that the attic design must meet, the thermal insulation of the ceiling and the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside should be carried out taking into account the basic requirements. For attic floors and ceilings, this is strength and compliance with fire safety standards.
roofing cake
The strength of the attic floors must correspond to the nature of the under-roof space. If an attic is arranged in the attic, then the ceilings must withstand the weight of the floors, furniture and people in it. Floor beams must not sag, and the allowable load cannot exceed 100 kg per square meter.
Stress on truss system gable roof
The second basic requirement - fire safety is especially important for a wooden house. All structural elements must be treated with special flame retardants.
Gable roof truss system
Types of heat-insulating materials
In order to qualitatively insulate the structure wooden ceiling and the entire roof of metal tiles use a variety of heat insulators.
Types of heaters
Main types:
- polystyrene and foam plastic;
- mineral wool;
- ecowool;
- glass wool;
- foamed polyurethane;
Each of the listed heaters has its pros and cons. The choice of insulation for the ceiling and for metal tiles depends on various factors. Therefore, you should familiarize yourself with each type of heat insulator in more detail in order to understand the better it is to insulate the ceiling floors and the entire upper floor.
Insulation of a mansard roof made of metal tiles
Budget options for insulation
In addition to the listed thermal insulation materials, there are inexpensive, bulk heaters. Such materials also carry out the insulation of the mansard roof. Bulk heat insulators include:
- sawdust and shavings;
- expanded clay;
- slag;
- ecowool.
To prevent the crumb of insulation from waking up through the cracks of the wooden floor, you can lay a plastic film.
Ecowool insulation
But remember at the same time that there will be no vapor barrier, since polyethylene does not allow moisture to pass through, which can condense in the room of the upper floor. Backfill insulation requires calculations of the strength of the floors. It is necessary to make sure that the beams can withstand a considerable weight of bulk insulator, as well as slate or metal tiles.
Ceiling insulation from the outside with expanded clay
Another economical option for ceiling insulation is the installation of corrugated cardboard. Sheets of material are fastened with self-tapping screws or building brackets to the attic floor. Joints and seams are sealed with polyurethane foam. Electrical wiring is retracted into corrugated channels, protecting wooden structures from fire.
Roof insulation with corrugated cardboard
General scheme of ceiling insulation
Roof and ceiling structures are the most vulnerable elements to heat loss in a home. They account for from 15 to 40 percent of the total heat transfer of the house, regardless of the roofing material - metal tiles or slate. In addition, to create a comfortable climate in the house, a vapor barrier must be made to protect the insulation from evaporation, as well as waterproofing of the ceiling and attic floor.
Scheme of vapor barrier, waterproofing and roof insulation
It is recommended to carry out the insulation of a wooden house in a complex way, arranging the thermal insulation of the roof from the inside and the ceiling at the same time. This will save insulation material, since two ten-centimeter layers of a heat insulator with an air gap in the attic space replace a layer of the same insulation with a thickness of 25-30 cm. Thus, about forty percent of thermal insulation is saved. External insulation of the ceiling with simultaneous thermal insulation of the roof from the attic side will give a good effect and will avoid dampness of the lower rooms. Such thermal insulation can be carried out without dismantling the roof of metal tiles and the ceiling of the upper floor.
Reflective roof insulation
Features of ceiling insulation
They consist in the fact that when installing thermal insulation, there is no way to organize the removal of condensate, which is formed due to the temperature difference between the attic and lower rooms. In addition, depending on the season, there is a change of warm and cold sides. Therefore, when installing thermal insulation of a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to provide for the complete absence of condensate on the insulation.
Scheme of ceiling insulation in a wooden house
You can prevent the formation of condensate by laying a special vapor barrier - film material permeable to one side.
It should be laid in such a way that there is a gap between the insulation material and the film.
It should be noted that when insulating the ceiling great importance has the correct application of the release film. Below we will consider their varieties.
Ceiling insulation
Membranes and release film materials
Modern technologies allow the use of more and more diverse materials that allow water, steam and other substances to pass or repel. Years of proven glassine, roofing felt and tar used on slate roofs or metal roofing, fade into the background and are rarely used. Technological membrane-type insulating films are much lighter, more convenient to use and, importantly, perform their function more purposefully and efficiently. In addition, they are reliable, strong and durable, and their thickness is much less. Important correct scheme their applications.
Super diffusion membrane for pitched roofs
Enlarged insulating materials can be divided into two groups.
1) Vapor barrier. For this purpose, so-called vapor barriers are used - thin-layer materials that do not allow evaporation to pass through. In turn, they can be:
- film;
- foil;
- foiled with a capillary substrate (folgoizol).
The vapor barrier protects the roof insulation
2) Waterproofing. It is carried out with materials that do not allow moisture and any liquids to pass through, called membranes. Are divided into:
- simple film with one layer;
- microperforated with steam penetration in both directions;
- superdiffusion, with vapor permeation in one direction.
Roof waterproofing
Vapor barrier is best arranged using polypropylene film materials, the thickness of which is from 55 microns. Polyethylene films are not suitable for evaporation protection, because they let air through regardless of their thickness, due to their structural features.
The PVC film is sensitive to temperature changes and changes in humidity, it can perform its role poorly over time, and even crack.
For a foil vapor barrier, polyethylene can be used as a base, since the foil prevents the penetration of vapors.
Fastening the foil vapor barrier
Waterproofing can be done with a simple polyethylene film.
But polyethylene is suitable only in heated houses with slate or metal roofing.
When insulating the ceiling of a cold roof, a film with microperforation and a three-layer reinforced coating is needed. The reinforcing layer will not allow the film to sag and will provide a ventilation gap.
cold roof ceiling insulation
Thus, having studied the properties of insulating materials and the features of their use, we can conclude that waterproofing and thermal insulation of the cold ceiling of the house on our own is a completely feasible task.
Proper insulation of the attic and attic ceiling
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How to insulate the ceiling and attic floor
- The better to insulate the ceiling
- Insulation of concrete floors
- Conclusion
In a heated private house, a large amount of heat will escape through the roof, if measures are not taken and the ceiling of the upper floor is not properly insulated. The physics of the process is known: heated and lighter air is displaced into the upper zone of the room, bordering the cold attic, where it gives off heat to the uninsulated floor. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to arrange a barrier in the form of a layer of thermal insulation on the path of the heat flow. This material will just discuss how to properly insulate the ceiling or attic floor with your own hands and the better to isolate this horizontal structure.
The better to insulate the ceiling
When choosing insulation for a ceiling located under a cold roof, regulatory fire requirements should be taken into account. The fact is that for all types of floors these requirements are quite stringent, which makes it impossible to use combustible materials for thermal insulation. In short and in simple words, then the insulation layer should not reduce the normative fire resistance of the structure. That is, combustible materials cannot be used to insulate ceilings under a cold attic, hemmed to wooden beams, as well as interfloor wooden floors and the same ceilings above the basement.
For reference. Wooden floor beams and others bearing structures according to the requirements of regulatory documents, they must be impregnated with a special fire-fighting compound, and the gaps between them must be filled with non-combustible materials.
Accordingly, the answer to the frequently asked question, is it possible to insulate the ceiling with foam from the inside along wooden beams, is quite clear - it is impossible. This also applies to the use of extruded polystyrene foam and foam. It turns out that the list of heaters suitable for thermal insulation wooden structures, is rather limited:
- non-combustible basalt (stone) wool, sold in slabs and rolls;
- bulk fire-resistant heaters - expanded clay, perlite;
- traditional folk material - sawdust mixed with clay.
Note. Not bad resists open fire and a coating of polyurethane foam applied by spraying. But the resistance time is limited, with prolonged exposure, the insulation changes its structure and collapses.
Mineral wool, made on the basis of fiberglass, is not suitable, as it can withstand temperatures not exceeding 200 ° C. The same applies to the actively advertised ecowool. Although it does not burn, ecowool cannot serve as both a ceiling insulation and a fire barrier. Judging by the degree of popularity among homeowners, the best option for insulation in this case is basalt mineral wool. Other listed materials in comparison with it have too high thermal conductivity.
Of course, you can violate fire regulations and insulate your a private house anything, there are no sanctions for it. But it should be remembered that as a result of such actions, the risk of a rapid collapse of the ceilings during a fire increases, which leads to very negative consequences.
Another thing is the insulation of concrete floors, which themselves have a high degree of fire resistance. Here it is possible to use any polymeric heaters - polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and foam plastic. At the same time, it is strongly recommended to insulate the ceiling not from the inside, but from the outside, such a solution will be the most correct in all respects.
Wood floor insulation
As a rule, the ceiling under a cold roof is insulated from the side of the attic. To do this, the first step is to hem the ceilings from below, so that mineral wool or expanded clay can be safely laid between the beams. The filing will serve as a support for it, which means it must be designed for the appropriate load. This is especially true of expanded clay or clay with sawdust, whose weight is quite significant.
The second important stage is the laying of a vapor barrier layer. It is well known that mineral wool absorbs moisture well, so do-it-yourself attic floor insulation should include a protective film layer and an air gap for ventilation. Due to this, water vapor from the living quarters will not get inside the insulation, and those that condense on the vapor barrier will disappear through the air gap. General scheme laying the heat-insulating layer on the ceiling under the roof is shown in the figure:
Film sheets should be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm, after which the joint is carefully glued with construction tape. The organization of the air opening is carried out by arranging an internal crate made of bars up to 50 mm wide, to which top coat ceilings. From the side of the roof, the insulation is covered with a diffusion membrane, which protects against wind and water drops, but allows steam to pass through.
Advice. Vapor barrier can be equipped using thin foil insulation - isolon or penofol. Then the canvases are laid end-to-end, and the seams are sealed with a special aluminum tape.
Moisture that is formed in the thickness of the material due to the occurrence of the dew point will be removed by ventilation from the attic, so that the thermal insulation will work correctly and for a long time. It should be noted that often the height of the beams is not enough to lay a heater of the calculated thickness between them. That is why below in the diagram with suspended ceilings showing the laying of mineral wool in 2 layers: one between the beams, the other on top of them. Expanded clay is simply poured into the openings on top of the vapor barrier.
Note. In the same way, the attic ceiling is insulated, that is, its horizontal part. The composition of the heat-insulating "pie" is the same as for the ceiling, the thickness of the insulation is the same as on the walls of the attic.
Installation of ceiling insulation can also be done in the reverse order - from below, from the side of the room. There is not much difference, only the work is not so convenient to perform, and even the vapor barrier must be done with a release on the walls of 15-20 cm, otherwise moisture can penetrate along the edges of the “pie”. This is especially true in wet areas such as bathrooms. More on this topic is described in the video:
As for the insulation of interfloor wooden floors, it often does not make sense to perform it. It appears only if you plan to isolate the second floor from the first and heat them separately in order to save money.
In such a situation, the insulation between floors will have to be protected from vapors on both sides, as shown in the diagram:
Insulation of concrete floors
Best to insulate concrete ceiling top floor from the outside, but it is convenient to do during the construction process. After all, on top of the insulation it is necessary to lay a roofing covering that protects the house from precipitation. The sequence of work is as follows:
- cleaning and leveling the concrete surface;
- organization of inclined surfaces for water drainage using a monolithic screed;
- laying waterproofing with a release at the edges;
- laying insulation in 1 or 2 layers;
- installation of a cement-sand screed up to 5 cm thick;
- spreading and sealing roofing.
"Pie" proper insulation concrete ceiling outside is shown in the diagram:
If the roofing is already available, then it is not advisable to open it to organize thermal insulation; instead, you can insulate the ceiling from the inside. The easiest way for this purpose is to take expanded polystyrene or penoplex, which do not have to be protected from moisture. Material slabs are attached to the concrete surface in 2 ways:
- first, wooden logs are installed, a heater is inserted between them, and the gaps are sealed with foam;
- foam boards are attached directly to the ceiling by means of dowels in the form of umbrellas.
Advice. When installing a log or fastening polystyrene foam, be careful when drilling holes so that the dowel does not fall into the void.
When there are lags, it is convenient to mount any topcoat. At the same time, the installation of insulation on dowels is practiced when installing stretch ceilings. When mineral wool is used as an insulator, the organization of vapor barrier and air gap is required, so here you can’t do without a lag and a counter-lattice.
The concrete ceiling above the unheated basement also needs to be insulated, since in this situation a lot of heat will escape through the floors of the first floor. There are 2 options here: insulate the basement ceiling or the floors on the ground floor.
The choice often falls on the second option, since it is more convenient to isolate the floors of the first floor. There are also two ways of thermal insulation: on the logs and under the screed, both of them are reflected in the diagrams:
Conclusion
The issue of insulation of ceilings and attic floors is not easy and requires a thorough approach. Particular attention should be paid to the installation of hydro and vapor barrier, since the service life of the insulation depends on the tightness of these layers. Also, do not save on its thickness, otherwise you will spend a lot of time and effort, and the result will remain far from expected.
When compared with city apartments in high-rise buildings, private houses have a large contact area with external environment, so the issue of high-quality thermal insulation is much more relevant here. About 35% of the heat escapes into the ambient air through an uninsulated ceiling if the roof and attic space are not insulated with a thermal barrier. Losing so much thermal energy for nothing is an unaffordable luxury, so we will consider best options thermal insulation of ceilings.
Insulation from the inside or from the side of the attic - which is preferable?
Modern building technologies provide for the installation of heat-insulating layers simultaneously with the construction of the building. In this case, the most convenient and efficient schemes installation of insulation at the design stage, taking into account the type of ceiling, the total load on building structures, the need for heat saving in this climatic zone. This happens ideally if it is built new house in compliance with building requirements and regulations.
If private building was built a long time ago, or recently, but on its own, it is quite possible that there may not be high-quality thermal insulation, including ceiling ceilings, in the house. In such a situation, homeowners have to solve the problem of insulation on their own, choosing methods that meet the needs for saving heat, the features of the building in general and the type of floors in particular. The first question that arises on the way to solving the indicated problem is the side of the ceilings, from which it is more convenient and expedient to arrange a thermal insulation barrier.
It is possible to insulate the floors on each side, and in any case it will be correct. But when choosing a method of insulation, you need to take into account some nuances. The first one is the height of the ceilings. If the ceilings are low, and there is no desire to hide the usable space further, insulation from the attic clearly suggests itself, because the insulation layer (at least 5-6 cm) plus the finish (2-3 cm) will make the ceilings even lower. Another situation - the rooms have already been finished, the interior is decorated, and it suits the household quite well. Warming the ceiling from the inside will lead to the need to make repairs again, which is inappropriate in every respect. Here, it is also preferable to lay a heat-insulating barrier on top of the floors.
Insulating ceilings from the inside makes sense only in a situation where the house is overhaul. In this case, it is envisaged to implement one of the methods of internal thermal insulation of ceilings, which is carried out during the repair and finishing works. Although recently, homeowners increasingly prefer to insulate the ceiling from the attic. So much more convenient, less expensive and, moreover, easy. And this is a strong factor if you plan to install a heat-insulating barrier with your own hands.
There is an option to insulate the floors on both sides. So do those who want to turn housing into an impregnable fortress for the winter cold and summer heat, so that they can constantly save on energy bills.
Looking for the right material - polymers or fibers?
Now there is a sufficient choice that can be applied for our purposes. Along with the use of modern thermal insulation materials, traditional heaters are often used, which have been serving for this for more than one century. These include wood chips and sawdust, as well as materials based on them (sawdust concrete, a mixture of woodworking waste with clay). Some cover the floor of the attic with a layer of dry leaves or paws. coniferous trees. Such methods of floor insulation were used by our ancestors, but nothing prevents us from using such completely natural and often free materials in our time. Although modern technologies and materials are preferred by consumers, so we will briefly consider their variety and main characteristics.
By classifying the materials applicable for the insulation of ceilings, they can be divided into several groups:
- polymer heat insulators;
- fibrous insulation;
- sprayed materials;
- bulk substances.
Polymers include the well-known polystyrene and extruded polystyrene, which is rapidly gaining popularity, known to many under the commercial name "foam". Polyfoam is used very widely for thermal insulation purposes in construction. The popularity of the material is provided by two factors - a very affordable cost and good thermal insulation properties. A high-quality material with a density of at least 35 kg / m 3 also has sufficient hydrophobicity so that there is no need to install hydro- and vapor barriers when installing an insulating layer. Everything would be fine, but there are, the main of which is flammability, accompanied by extreme toxicity. The smoke emitted during the combustion of this polymer is capable of sending anyone who inhales it 2-3 times to the forefathers. For this reason, in many developed countries, this insulation is prohibited for thermal insulation work in residential buildings.
Penoplex is devoid of many of the shortcomings of foam. It belongs to the class of materials that do not support combustion or self-extinguishing, so its use in residential construction is not limited. In addition, polystyrene is absolutely not susceptible to moisture, is not susceptible to damage by bacterial and fungal microflora. The strength of foam is one of the highest when compared with other heat insulators, so polystyrene is often used where strength characteristics play an important role (under the screed, thermal insulation of building basements, basements). In terms of thermal insulation properties, polystyrene is approximately the same as polystyrene - to create a reliable thermal barrier, a layer of insulation of 5-10 cm is sufficient (depending on the geography of the region).
Fibrous materials for thermal insulation works in construction include varieties of mineral wool. The material differs in the nature of the raw material, which is used for the manufacture of the material. All types of mineral wool are produced by melting minerals and forming fibers held together with organic adhesives. If the fibers are formed from molten glass, the result is glass wool. Slag wool is made in the same way from blast-furnace slag and other mineral waste from metallurgical production. Basalt wool, considered the most quality material from this category, is formed by thermal action on some types of rocks.
All fiber insulations are made different density. Highest specific gravity have mats used mainly for facade thermal insulation for plastering. Such a heat insulator is strong and rigid, therefore it forms a solid surface for finishing work on it. mineral wool medium density also produced in the form of mats, but the material is looser and does not have high strength. Mineral wool with the lowest specific gravity goes on sale rolled into rolls. To insulate the ceiling in the house, you can use mineral wool of medium and low density, and the first one will be more appropriate for thermal insulation from the side of the attic with a cold roof, the second - for the installation of a thermal barrier from the inside.
Sprayable and bulk options - there is plenty to choose from
The last word in the technology of thermal insulation of building surfaces is sprayed heat insulators. These include polyurethane foam and ecowool. The first material is a polymer, the second is made from natural raw materials (cellulose). Both heat insulators are applied to the surfaces to be insulated by spraying, although in some cases ecowool is poured into the existing gaps in a dry form, followed by tamping.
Polyurethane foam by its chemical nature, method of application and structure of the finished thermal insulation is very close to conventional mounting foam. For the preparation of a foam material with excellent adhesive properties, two components are used, which are dismounted and then applied using special equipment. The advantage of sprayed insulation is its seamlessness, which prevents the formation of cold bridges. Polyurethane foam in the polymerized (hardened) state is not combustible and has 1.3 times better thermal insulation characteristics than polystyrene. The disadvantage of the heat insulator is the gradual destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation (needs to be protected) and the impossibility of working with it with your own hands (the equipment is expensive and it is not advisable to purchase it for one-time use).
The most used loose heat insulator is expanded clay - porous granules of various fractions. The raw material for the production of expanded clay is ordinary clay, so this insulation is environmentally friendly and natural. This insulation does not burn, has moderate hygroscopicity and good thermal insulation properties. The ability to resist heat loss depends on the size of the granules - the smaller the fraction, the higher the thermal conductivity.
For insulation of the attic floor, it is advisable to use expanded clay with a fraction of 5-10 mm.
Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of living rooms
There are two ways to insulate floors from the inside. The first one involves the installation of heat-insulating plates or mats directly on the floor surface using glue and additional fixation with special dowels. This method is best used if a reinforced concrete slab is used as the floor. The second technology provides for the installation of a crate for subsequent sheathing with sheets of drywall, plastic panels or lining. In this case, the insulation is laid between the supporting elements of the frame. This method is feasible for any type of ceiling. Both methods give a good thermal insulation effect, although the thickness of the layer is often limited, due to the desire to save a maximum of usable space.
To implement the technology of direct installation of insulation on plates, extruded polystyrene is more often used, although mineral wool mats with a high specific gravity can also be used. Polystyrene is preferred for several reasons:
- the material is lighter, more convenient to work with during its installation;
- the thermal conductivity of polystyrene of the same thickness is about one and a half times lower than the same indicator of high-density mineral wool;
- to form finishing layers on the surface of mineral wool, you need to have the skills of such an activity, while plastering on polystyrene is no more difficult than on drywall.
In general, the installation of these heaters differs little. The only difference is in the polymer-cement mixtures used for gluing heat-insulating sheets. The sequence of actions with this method of insulation is as follows:
- we process the floor slab with a priming mixture;
- we prepare polymer cement glue (according to the instructions on the package);
- we apply the adhesive mixture on the insulation sheet (along the perimeter and in the center), after which we press the polystyrene plate to the concrete surface and set it in a horizontal plane;
- after the glue has set (about a day later), we additionally fix the insulation sheets with "umbrellas" - special dowels with a wide round cap.
It remains to plaster the insulation using a reinforcing mesh and apply finishing finishing layers. If the second method is used, which involves laying insulation in the gaps between the slats or profiles, we take medium or low density mineral wool as a heat-insulating material. Thermal insulation is placed between the elements of the frame and slightly fixed with bent planks of direct hangers, with which the profiles are attached to the ceiling, after which the crate is closed with sheathing.
Thermal barrier device on the attic floor - available methods
For the installation of a thermal barrier on the side of the attic, all of the materials mentioned above are applicable. If you need to hire specialized teams for insulation with ecowool or polyurethane foam, it will not be difficult for any home craftsman to form heat-insulating layers with expanded clay, mineral wool or polymer sheet insulation.
If the overlap is made with a reinforced concrete slab, it is more expedient to use expanded clay, filling it with a layer of up to 15 cm, or lay penoplex, filling the seams between the sheets of polymer insulation with mounting foam. When it is better to use mineral wool, since it is similar to wood in terms of its ability to pass water vapor. Fibrous insulation is laid in the gaps between the supporting wooden beams, after which a vapor barrier is arranged from the appropriate film. Then counter-rails are sewn along the beams, which will be the basis for laying the attic floor boards.
If there is free access to lumber waste, you can reduce the cost of the event as much as possible by filling the spaces between the beams with a mixture of small chips and sawdust. This method of thermal insulation will be the most environmentally friendly and natural for floors made of wood materials.
The air heated in the room always rises and, in the absence of a high-quality insulation layer, can exit through the cracks in the roof to the outside. Losses of heat energy in this case reach more than 30%, so the owner should take the time and prepare for the cold in advance. Consider how and how the ceiling is insulated in a house with a cold roof, and we will also evaluate the possibility of doing the work yourself.
Insulating materials perform several functions at once:
- Reduction of noise effects. No sounds from the street will be heard in the premises.
- Significant reduction in heat loss. This allows you to save a lot on energy, spending less money on heating your home.
- During the period of cold weather, cold bridges are not formed, during the heat, the insulation does not let excessively heated air into the house, which means that a comfortable temperature is maintained.
Features of choice and types of insulation materials
High-quality insulation of the ceiling in a private house begins with the selection of products. What you need to pay attention to:
- the lower the thermal conductivity, the better;
- resistance to moisture, temperature fluctuations;
- minimal flammability;
- long period of use;
- application safety.
Mineral wool
One of the most popular products for attic ceiling insulation work. Used for both outdoor and internal works. It is produced from slag, molten rocks, broken glass, sand and differs in the type of raw materials.
slag wool
The raw material is blast-furnace slag. It is not recommended to use it in attic rooms with a cold roof due to the hygroscopicity of the product - slag wool will pick up water and quickly become unusable. The second minus is fragility, causticity of the fiber, which crumbles, remains in the air and can cause diseases.
glass wool
The raw material is a molten glass mass, from which long fibers are drawn, then formed into rolls, plates. The product has low thermal conductivity, water absorption is 0.55-0.8 kg/m2. Materials are widely used for insulation of ceilings in attics, and both in independent form and in combination with other insulators. It is recommended to apply from the side of the attic, as the fibers are brittle, sharp and can irritate the mucous membranes of the nose and eyes.
Basalt wool
The raw material is gabboro-basalt rocks. The insulation is universal and is widely used for insulating rooms. Low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature fluctuations, chemical components, rodents, light weight, elasticity are the main positive qualities of the product.
Important! Basalt wool is often supplemented with a foil layer, which increases the reflectivity of the material, thereby reducing heat loss.
Expanded clay
Insulation in the form of dry granules of various sizes, made on the basis of natural clay.
On a note! The smaller the fraction size, the higher the density of the bulk layer and the lower the insulation properties. The optimal size of the granules is 4-10 mm.
Additional advantages: does not burn, has a long service life, retains shape stability, quality indicators throughout the entire period of use. Light weight allows the use of expanded clay in houses with dilapidated ceilings, to isolate areas around chimneys.
Ecowool
Raw materials - waste paper, paper production waste. Apply wet or dry. Wet - blowing the composition mixed with water, and dry - scattering ecowool over the ceiling area, followed by moistening and compaction. The advantages include environmental friendliness and lightness of the material, disadvantages - a lot of dust during operation, the need for high-quality protection.
It is important to observe the technology of laying out products. Plus in favor of ecowool - fine particles penetrate even the thinnest cracks, cracks and clog the surface, increasing the energy efficiency of the building, and the material does not interfere with air circulation, maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room.
Styrofoam
The reduced coefficient of thermal conductivity is a plus, but the parameter depends on the density and thickness of the sheet. The downside is the combustibility of foam, so it is not recommended to use it for warming baths and saunas. When the temperature rises, the sheets release toxic substances. You can replace the foam with extruded polystyrene foam. It is a self-extinguishing and non-combustible product, but in case of fire it also releases harmful substances.
polyurethane foam
It is a sprayable material that requires the use of special equipment. The composition can be sprayed in several layers, has low thermal conductivity and is used on any basis for insulation outside and inside the house. An additional plus is low moisture absorption, the material retains its quality indicators at any level of humidity, temperature fluctuations.
When sprayed, PPU fills small cracks and crevices well, creating a dense and elastic protective layer. After hardening, the excess foam is cut off with a knife, which is convenient for adjusting the layer thickness to the level of the general plane of the attic floor.
On a note! When using PPU, there is no need for additional hydro-, vapor barrier - the material initially has all the necessary properties.
Sawdust
Inexpensive and high-quality insulation, which is most often used in combination with other materials, such as shavings. Sawdust creates a dense layer, and chips - loose, such a heater has the best energy efficiency.
In order for the insulation to be of high quality, it is necessary to accurately calculate the thickness of the layer. In addition to loose material, manufacturers offer shaped pellets from sawdust compressed into granules. The product has one drawback - flammability. Therefore, protection from fire is needed, the combination of sawdust with clay, lime - these components reduce the risk of fire.
Calculation of the thickness of the insulation layer
The indicator depends on temperature fluctuations in the region, roof material and other factors. For calculations, the parameters of the thickness of all layers of material that are already available or that are supposed to be laid out on the ceiling, the dimensions of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and temperature indicators are useful. The maximum load on the floors, the type of insulation is also determined. All data is entered into the calculation calculator, this program is available on the Internet, as a result, the desired thickness is obtained.
Insulation of the ceiling from the inside - from the side of the premises
The ceiling is insulated in a wooden house from the inside in two ways:
- Bonding sheets of material to the surface. Additional fixation on dowels.
- Mounting on a pre-formed crate made of timber or metal profiles. The longitudinal elements of the crate are mounted in increments equal to the dimensions of the insulation materials.
Before performing work, preparation of the base is required. Consider how to properly insulate the ceiling in a private house in stages.
Wood ceiling preparation
Preparatory work includes cleaning the base from dust, old coatings. Then you need to treat the surface with antiseptics, antiprenes and allow the base to dry well. Eliminate cracks, chips and other defects by filling them with putty on wood. If the gaps are large, then it is permissible to use mounting foam, the excess of which, after drying, is cut off with a knife.
Technology for mounting insulation on glue
The technique is used for board materials. Adhesive compositions are selected depending on the type of product. For example, for foam sheets, it is not recommended to use compounds with solvents, they deform and melt the sheets. The optimal solution is cement-based adhesives or liquid nails.
The cement adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the base with a notched trowel, the element is pressed, adhered and the next sheet can be mounted. If it's liquid nails or polyurethane foam, then the mixture is applied to the insulation. Then the sheet is also pressed against the ceiling and fixed.
Additionally, the sheets are fixed with dowels with a small cap. 5-6 dowels are enough for one sheet: in the corners and in the center. The gaps are filled with mounting foam, which is then cut off at the level of the plane. Sheet basalt mineral wool is mounted in the same way. After performing the insulation work, the plates are reinforced with a mesh and can be puttied, lined with a finishing material.
Technology for mounting insulation on the crate
This technology of ceiling insulation in a private house requires the formation of a frame and is used for subsequent sheathing of the ceiling with clapboard, gypsum plasterboard.
Work algorithm:
- Mark the future frame on the ceiling. The pitch of the profiles is equal to the size of the insulation, but not more than 50 cm.
- The wooden frame is mounted on dowels, the metal profile can be attached to the ceiling on suspensions.
- Lay sheets of insulation, placing crates in the cells. The material must fit snugly against the guide bars.
- Fill gaps with foam. Then lay a sheet of vapor barrier on top, secure with a stapler or tape. The material is laid out with an overlap of 15-20 cm.
It remains to sew the ceiling with finishing material.
Insulation from the attic
The same materials are suitable for the work, the differences relate only to the layout technology:
- Roll, sheet materials or mats are laid out between the floor beams. After that, they are sewn up with a board.
- Ecowool, polyurethane foam are applied by spraying. A special unit is used.
- Sawdust, expanded clay are scattered on the floor, previously lined with vapor barrier material.
Technology of laying slab material
Insulation in the form of mats, plates is laid out in one or more layers. The hemmed ceiling is insulated along the floor beams, and the rolling ceiling is insulated on cranial bars fixed on the same floor beams.
vapor barrier
On a hemmed ceiling, the membrane is laid from the inside of the room, fixed to the base with brackets. The rolling ceiling is insulated with a membrane, which is mounted on a sheet of plywood or boards, fixed on a cranial bar.
When using roll materials, the following points are taken into account:
- installation without gaps between the material and floor beams;
- the width of the sheets is slightly larger than the dimensions of the cells or the inter-beam space;
- the fit of the sheets to the vapor barrier is tight;
- if necessary, two or more layers of insulation laying out, increase the height of the beams;
- when insulating a “cold roof”, it is imperative to use waterproofing, it is also overlapped, glue the joints with adhesive tape;
- on top of the waterproofing, a frame is formed from a counter-rail up to 4 cm high so that there is a gap between the insulation and the wooden floor.
Styrofoam, regardless of the variety, is mounted in the same way. After completion of work, a board or plywood is laid, fastened to counter rails.
Spray insulation
You will need equipment that pumps air and sprays the material onto a plane. Two types of material are sprayed: polyurethane foam and ecowool. When using polyurethane foam, vapor and waterproofing membranes are not needed, but if ecowool is sprayed, you will first have to line the base with a vapor barrier so that small particles do not enter the room.
Another installation option is to fill the space between the hemmed or rolling flooring of the attic with ecowool. To complete the process, you need to dismantle the floor board, run the hose and fill the entire area with material. With such insulation, ecowool does not mix with water, the spraying method is called dry. The same method is used when insulating the area under the waterproofing film: make a cut in the canvas, blow ecowool along the plane, then fasten the cut with adhesive tape.
The option with manually falling asleep ecowool is also not difficult: fluff the material, pour it onto a plane, compact it, and so pour layers with a total thickness of up to 10 cm. Waterproofing is laid out on top of the material to protect paper dust from water.
Backfill thermal insulation
Such materials include expanded clay, sawdust, pellets, and other loose granules. Only the technique of backfilling sawdust differs.
Expanded clay
The granules are laid out in a layer on the prepared surface, which is previously protected by a vapor barrier. The insulation layer does not require protection from water, but it is recommended to stretch a windproof membrane over the expanded clay to eliminate heat leakage. Then the floor is sewn up with boards, fasteners on floor beams or counter rails. If the supporting structures of the building are already weak, then expanded clay is the best insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house.
Shavings, sawdust
Several options for preparing the base are used: lay glassine, seal cracks, line the floors with thick cardboard. There is only one requirement - to seal all the cracks as much as possible, otherwise the insulation will begin to spill out through the gaps.
Warming technician two:
- Lay the sawdust in its pure form, having previously treated the materials with an antiseptic, antiprene. It is better to use a spray gun so that the processing is better. Sawdust and shavings should be laid as follows: first, shavings with a layer of up to 10 cm, then tamp the layer, and then sawdust. The layer is also compacted. The option has a significant disadvantage - rodents may appear in the insulation. You can avoid this by mixing materials with dry lime: for 5 parts of insulation 1 part of lime. Mix and spread out. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation (fastening on a bracket), then the structure is sewn up with boards.
- Mix sawdust with clay, lime, cement. Proportions: for 10 parts of sawdust, 1 part of another material. Mix the components dry, add water, achieving a consistency when the mixture in the fist forms into a lump and does not release water. After that, the solution is laid out on a base covered with waterproofing. Layer thickness - the height of the floor beams. The mixture is compacted, dried and a subfloor can be laid.
Advice! If gypsum is added instead of cement, you will have to work very quickly - the composition is not viable. Proportions: for 9 parts of sawdust 1 part of gypsum.
Knowing how and how to insulate the ceiling in a private house, you can choose suitable material and easily do the work with your own hands. Do not forget about roof insulation in order to completely eliminate heat leakage from the premises.
The need to independently insulate the ceiling of a private house often arises among those who have already erected a structure, and among those who are still planning construction. Contrary to the opinion that it is difficult to do such work on your own, it is not difficult to insulate the ceiling without involving third-party workers - the owner himself can do this, having some skills and choosing a ceiling insulation (which is best suited for this building).
The need to insulate the ceiling is by no means due only to the low temperature in the building in question. Sometimes more important is the humidity, which rises as a result of the temperature difference on the floors. Also important is the amount that has to be spent on additional heating to compensate for the loss of heat.
How to insulate the ceiling in the house with your own hands will be described in detail below.
Before you write off the problems of low temperature in the house on the ceiling, you should decide whether insulation is really necessary.
It is necessary to insulate the ceiling in several cases: When considering how to insulate the ceiling in a private house, it is worth evaluating all these factors. It is not necessary to insulate the ceiling when: When deciding how to insulate the ceiling, you need to consider a few rules: When choosing insulation for the ceiling (which one is best), pay attention to the variety of materials, usually divided into 4 types: loose, sheet, fibrous and liquid. Among them are:
General requirements for ceiling insulation
How to insulate the ceiling?
Penoizol - innovative insulation for the ceiling
Types of buildings for ceiling insulation
You can decide how to properly insulate the ceiling, given the type of building to be worked. Several of them can be distinguished:
- brick buildings;
- wooden buildings;
- houses from foam blocks.
The design and material of the floors will be of great importance when planning the insulation of both the ceiling and the walls. Therefore, only by finding the optimal method of insulation, you can safely and as simply as possible reduce heat loss.
Insulation mounting options
You can decide how to insulate the ceiling in the house by evaluating all the methods of installing materials.
There are 2 ways:
- From the inside - costly in time, effort, and financial option;
- From above - that is, attic insulation. Less complex, less costly.
It is worth insulating the ceiling from the inside at the stage of building a house, since you are unlikely to want to violate the integrity of an already created finish. Sometimes such serious work is not required - it will be good enough to sound and heat insulate the floor on the upper attic floor. It will be easy if you are not going to make this floor residential and generally meaningfully use it (which means that you will not trample down the insulation for the ceiling). In order to occasionally visit the attic without harm to the material, lay several ladders from the boards.
Sawdust is an inexpensive way to improve the insulation of your home. Having chosen this material, deciding how better to insulate the ceiling, you need to focus on its negative properties to the utmost - the success of all work depends on how much they can be leveled. The method of insulating attics in this way is quite well developed - 20 years ago, sawdust or other porous available material was simply poured onto the floor of the attic, since it was not easy to find a worthy replacement. Sawdust - a proven material for insulation There are only 2 minuses for sawdust, but they are significant and obvious: In addition, such heaters for the ceiling of a wooden house or other structure will make the attic inaccessible for use, because they turn out to be very fragile and prone to destruction when trampled down. To overcome the negative characteristics of this material, which is attractive in other aspects, care must be taken to properly treat it with means that prevent ignition and reproduction of animals. The simplest of these substances are lime and gypsum, with which sawdust is mixed before adding binders to cover the elements - cement and clay. The general technology of home insulation is as follows: Liquid foam - a very convenient way to insulate the ceiling Analyzing insulation for the ceiling of the house, you understand that polystyrene foam is one of the best options from inexpensive and available for independent use. Its advantages are very significant, although some details of its installation require strict adherence. Modern materials (mounting foam, for example) make it much easier to work with this insulation - they allow you to maintain the tightness of the joints. In combination with mineral wool, foam becomes an even more effective insulation, allowing you to create the perfect "screen" for warm air. Polyfoam has many positive qualities. Among them: All the advantages of polystyrene cannot cover several of its shortcomings, namely: Sheet foam - an affordable and convenient material for thermal insulation The technology for insulating the ceiling with foam plastic is relatively simple; such work is performed in two ways: Evaluating the insulation for the ceiling in the house (which is better or worse), we focus on accessibility and ease of use. Mineral wool is an ideal material for these indicators, but even more effective, as already mentioned, is the combination with foam sheets.
Insulation works with different types of materials
Insulation with sawdust
Insulation - foam
Warming with mineral wool
High-quality insulation of the ceiling in the house allows you to keep warm in cool weather and prevent the room from heating up in the heat. To insulate the ceiling in a private house means to win economically and increase the level of comfort. But how to insulate the ceiling for less money? The market offers a wide range of solutions for this.
The first steps in the insulation of the ceiling: general rules
Ceiling insulation is a necessary measure, despite the high labor costs. As a result, the owner will receive comfortable living conditions with low fuel consumption for heating in winter.
How to insulate the ceiling in the house? Main rules:
- Choice of environmentally friendly and safe material.
- The insulation must be made of non-combustible material.
- The material must have not only high-level thermal insulation properties, but also not disturb the natural humidity. That is, you must breathe.
- The material must not be exposed to moisture.
Note! Only compliance with all parameters guarantees high quality thermal insulation after work.
Preparatory work: material selection
The above criteria meet 5 materials. They are recommended for use when installing a heat-insulating layer on the ceiling of a private house with your own hands:
- Styrofoam. A polymer that is characterized by fire safety and lack of susceptibility to moisture.
- Penoizol. A polymer with a porous structure that has an unlimited service life.
- Mineral wool. Feature - absorbs moisture, so water in one form or another should not fall on it. The most popular material.
- Ecowool. It saves heat no worse than the mineral counterpart. Produced from cellulose.
- Expanded clay. Made on the basis of clay - a natural component. Dignity - rodents never start in it. In addition, expanded clay is not afraid of moisture. Loose.
Only the last 2 materials are natural. But the others don't provide either. negative impact on human health.
You can create a warm ceiling with budgetary funds, which are always at hand in abundance:
- Slag. It negatively affects the life of the floors. Emits a small amount of radiation.
- Sawdust. Over time, they are spoiled by insects, losing some of their properties.
- Dry grass. Promotes the establishment of insects and rodents.
Economical solutions have drawbacks, but they have the right to be used in non-permanent housing and outbuildings of the old type, where it is a pity to invest a lot of money - cottages, old houses or in a bathhouse.
Insulation installation: location options
The main heat loss in the house occurs through the ceiling of the last floor, above which there is an attic with a roof. Accordingly, the method of installation of insulation 2:
- Outer.
- Interior.
Both methods give the desired result. But there are differences. They lie not only in the features of installation, but also on what materials are used. Namely:
- Vapor permeable.
- Waterproofing.
That is, this is how a material can work with moisture - absorb and let it through or repel it. For interior decoration, a vapor-permeable material is used, and outside - water-repellent.
It is used if there is no attic above the residential floor. Required:
- Install the frame. Usually made of wood, on the floor of the attic. The final design depends on the insulating material.
- Fill the frame with heat-insulating material.
On this layer of insulation can not be touched. However, if the attic is periodically used in household needs and you have to walk on its floor, then the warming layer needs to be covered:
- Concrete.
- Plywood or lining.
Internal insulation
If there is a regularly used room above the living space, in the form of an attic or a warehouse, it is advisable to use an internal insulating structure. The disadvantages of the method:
- Labor intensity.
- Reducing the height of the walls.
Note! With the internal method of laying the insulation, waterproofing will be required between the insulation and the ceiling. It is needed if a vapor-permeable material is used.
When building a new house, if the project did not provide for internal insulation just make changes to the project. But for an already commissioned house, this can be a problem, especially with a low ceiling height. And if the design of the wooden ceiling can be changed, then the concrete ceiling cannot be changed.
For work, a frame is also formed, which is filled with insulation. Then the structure is covered with drywall.
Note! The peculiarity of using cotton wool (mineral and eco) is that it cannot be pressed to reduce the thickness. It contains pores that reduce its thermal conductivity. Therefore, it should be used with caution in interior decoration.
Work examples
Each material is unique and it needs to be laid on the ceiling according to its own, separate technology. Required materials and tools:
- Boards or metal profile to form a frame.
- Insulation.
- Cutting tools.
- Fasteners.
- Protection - goggles, respirator, gloves.
Details of the work being done:
- There should be no gaps on the vapor barrier film. Including between the seams. Runs should be overlapped.
- In the frame, the distance between the slats should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation sheet. The height of the frame is 1-2 cm higher than the thickness of the insulation in order to ensure air circulation up to the waterproofing layer from above.
Below are ways to insulate the ceiling with popular heaters.
Bulk material that has gained popularity as a thermal insulating layer for floors. Recently, it has been used as an inexpensive insulation on the ceiling. Characteristics:
- Not subject to oxidation, including combustion.
- Does not emit harmful substances.
- Does not attract rodents and is not covered with fungus.
- Inferior to cotton wool and polystyrene in heat-insulating properties.
- Heavy. Apply only on strong ceilings with supporting beams.
Mounting technology:
- A layer of vapor barrier is laid on the floor of the attic. You can use regular film.
- The niches between the beams are covered with expanded clay. It is recommended to use fractions different sizes to form multiple layers. Thickness - at least 20 cm. In cold climates - from 40 cm.
- The material is leveled.
- A vapor barrier is mounted on top.
- Floor laying.
Alternative material - foam glass. It retains heat better.
This material is called liquid foam. Special additives make it non-flammable and repel rodents. The disadvantage of the installation is that skilled workers with equipment are needed who can properly insulate.
The technology is simple. On the vapor barrier, previously laid, foam insulation is poured with a layer thickness of 20-30 cm. If necessary, the floor can be mounted on top.
insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool is the most popular way. Easy to do by hand. Types of mineral wool:
- Slag. Made from blast furnace slag. Unsuitable material for insulation due to increased hygroscopicity and high thermal conductivity.
- Stone. Produced from rock with the addition of clay. Has low thermal conductivity.
- Glass wool. It has the lowest thermal conductivity. Differs in low cost. Causes irritation upon contact with human mucous membranes.
Mounting order:
- Lay a vapor barrier.
- Mount the frame.
- Lay cotton.
- Attach waterproofing to the cotton.
Polymer cellular material. In terms of thermal insulation properties, it is similar to glass wool. Material properties:
- Low cost.
- Light weight.
- Flammable, with the release of a toxic substance. When heated, they can also be released.
- Rodents can nest in it.
- Contributes to the greenhouse effect.
Installation options:
- With the help of a framework.
- For glue.
The foam plastic lies on the frame like the method with cotton wool. However, you should first apply liquid nails to the frame rails and the top of the foam. Mounting with glue:
- Cleaning and washing of the installation surface. You will need a primer.
- Apply glue to the top of the foam and press the sheet to the ceiling surface.
- The glued sheets are covered with a layer of plaster and then reinforced with reinforcing fiber. Plaster is also laid on top of it.
