The advantages of a do-it-yourself long-burning furnace that runs on sawdust. Do-it-yourself sawdust oven from a gas cylinder Sawdust oven for long burning

Many owners of summer cottages and greenhouses have to decide how to heat these small spaces. Gas or wood-fired stoves require a lot of fuel, and this, in turn, costs a lot of money. To save money on heating, people have found this option: to operate the ovens on sawdust.

Sawdust oven: advantages of use

Such heating systems have many advantages:

• every summer resident will find fuel for their work, chips and sawdust, including pressed ones, are suitable for this;
• you do not have to dispose of waste, they can be burned in a furnace;
• damp wood chips, wood and sawdust do not need to be pre-dried, they can be laid in this form;
• maximum power is achieved in a short period of time;
• boilers give off the maximum amount of heat;
• any person is able to assemble this system, and its maintenance does not require special skills;
• a boiler of this design can also be used for heating water and cooking, if it is supplemented with the appropriate equipment;
• the ability to control your fuel costs;
• the temperature of the heated water can be adjusted;
• harmful substances burn out in the firebox without harming the environment and atmosphere.

How are sawdust ovens made?

With their own hands, everyone can assemble such a stove, you just have to stock up on tools and necessary materials... You will need black tin or from which potbelly stoves are usually made. An empty gas cylinder, a 200-liter barrel or a section of a wide pipe with a welded bottom is suitable as a large form. The thickness of these elements must be more than 5 mm. A sawdust stove is made with a double bottom: the first bottom is located at the top of the stove, a hole with rims is made in it. The second bottom is inserted into the central part of the wide pipe, it must have an opening of the same size as in the first bottom. A conical tube is installed in the center of the stove cylinder, which is fixed in the cut out circles. When the inner tube is installed, the sawdust can be poured up to the chimney level or up to the top of the tapered tube. They need to be tamped down as they are laid so that they do not crumble after removing the cone. Further, this device is tightly closed with a lid. The lower hole is equipped with a flap, firewood is placed in it and set on fire.

The principle of operation of the sawdust oven

The flame from the burning wood gradually passes through the hole made and ignites the sawdust. If the material is well rammed, it will not burn, but smolder. This process is very long, at least 8 hours, so for a given period of time the stove can be left unattended, even if the firewood goes out, you do not need to set it on fire again. The air above the sawdust warms up evenly and gradually. Such a sawdust oven will do an excellent job with a garage or workshop. To heat a summer cottage or house, it is worth making small changes to the design.

Furnace modification for home heating

Houses are larger in area than greenhouses, so it is necessary to ensure that it gives more energy on sawdust, can warm a large area. Furnaces made according to the method described above have one significant drawback: thermal energy is lost when exiting through the chimney. It is not always advisable to lengthen the chimney over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe heated room, therefore we recommend the so-called sawdust pyrolysis ovens. They are characterized by the fact that they have an additional air circuit for flue gases. There are two options for converting an existing stove: install a smoke circuit from the outside or from the inside.

It is easier to install it outside, that is, surround the furnace with another layer of metal, leaving space for free movement of hot air. This design makes it possible to keep the volume of the loaded fuel unchanged and, accordingly, the frequency of its loading. The installation of an additional circuit inside the structure is done in much the same way, but has a small drawback: less sawdust can be loaded. In both cases, the chimney must be located at the bottom of the structure. As you can see from the description, making a sawdust oven with your own hands will not cause difficulties if you know how to handle a welding machine.

Connecting the boiler to a water heating system

Some homeowners who have already installed a water heating system may wonder if it is possible to connect such an economical sawdust stove to it. The answer is yes, and this does not require special skills. It is necessary to establish a register by connecting the supply and return to it, which are connected to the central heating system. To improve heat transfer, the option of installing a blower, a narrow pipe passing through the cover and the entire body instead of a cone, is suitable.

So, for economical users who care about the environment, a long-lasting smoldering oven on sawdust is an excellent option for heating a greenhouse, summer cottage or small house... It is not difficult to make and install it, it will bring warmth, tranquility and comfort to the house.

Sawdust is an inexpensive and affordable fuel, but it is impossible to use it in conventional furnaces - for this you need a hearth of a special design. To build a sawdust oven with your own hands, you do not have to master brickwork - the body of such devices is always made of metal. Economical stoves are suitable for heating greenhouses, garages, summer cottages and country houses... It all depends on how seriously you take your job and how much money you spend on materials.

The principle of operation of sawdust ovens

The wood waste kiln works according to the principle long burning... The fuel in such devices does not burn, but smolders, gradually releasing a small but sufficient amount of thermal energy. Slow burning allows significant fuel savings and fewer loads. With this method, expensive heat does not fly away into the pipe, but is spent as much as possible on heating the house.

Homemade slow burning oven on sawdust

To exclude an intense flame and achieve a slow and prolonged glow, it is necessary to limit the access of oxygen to the fuel chamber. The problem is solved by the tightness of the structure and by pressing the fuel.

Fuel does not burn under a closed lid, but smolders slowly

How to make a long burning stove

To make a sawdust oven with your own hands, you can use a ready-made metal container: a barrel, a can, empty gas bottle or a pipe of a suitable diameter. For work you will need welding machine, Bulgarian and skills of working with them.

Simple oven on sawdust from a barrel

If you have at your disposal metal barrel, then first of all you need to cut off the top from it. This should be done carefully, since in the future the part will be used for its intended purpose, but as a removable cover.

Scheme homemade oven on sawdust from a barrel

Further, a circle with a diameter slightly less than the parameters of the barrel is cut out of a metal sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm. A hole is made in the center of the circle for a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and the resulting workpiece is carefully welded to the inner walls, stepping back 15-20 cm from the bottom.

Just below the welded sheet, a small window is cut out - a blower, for the oxygen necessary for combustion to enter the furnace. A hole for the chimney is cut out in the upper part of the cylinder - a pipe is welded to it, which leads from the firebox carbon monoxide.

The chimney requires special attention - too powerful draft will contribute to the rapid exhaust of gases and a decrease in the thermal efficiency of the device. With a weak draft, another problem may arise - life-threatening combustion products will begin to enter the room.

Experienced craftsmen recommend artificially lengthening the chimney by running it around the perimeter of the room, or adapting the chimney for preparing hot water by including a boiler in the design. All this will help to keep the warmth in the house and get the most out of it.

Barrel stove for utility room

The lid is made from the cut off top, by welding the sides to it, or from a metal sheet. It is important to ensure the tightness of the structure, otherwise combustion will result instead of smoldering. For the most tight connection, special heat-resistant seals for ovens are used. For convenience, be sure to weld the handle.

Rules for operating a homemade oven

For all its effectiveness, a homemade device works simply:

1. A cone-shaped pipe is installed in a hole in a metal sheet - it is easier to remove it at the right time.
2. The container is filled with sawdust to the level of the chimney in small portions, carefully ramming each layer.
3. The pipe is carefully removed, leaving a hole in the center for the oxygen supply to the fuel and the exhaust gas outlet.
4. The stove is closed with a lid and the fuel is ignited from the side of the blower. To make lighting easier, you can pour a little flammable liquid onto the metal partition before loading the sawdust.
5. The smoldering process in a barrel with a volume of about 200 liters lasts at least 8 hours - during this time, the furnace lid must not be opened and sawdust added. A new loading can be done only after the complete combustion of the previous batch of fuel.

Fuel is loaded from above

How to improve the budget model

The simplest potbelly stove from a barrel is suitable for country house, garage or greenhouse. For a residential building, it is recommended to modernize the structure by increasing the heating area by building an additional smoke circuit.

The contour can be made external or internal. In the first case, you will need a similar shape with a larger diameter, and in the second, you need to find a slightly smaller barrel or weld a suitable metal container.

Furnace structure with external smoke circuit

The outer contour is attractive by increasing the heat transfer area and maintaining the volume combustion chamberand the inner one is easier to work with. In both versions, the chimney must be moved down.

Sawdust oven with an internal circuit

Diagram of a two-cylinder device

It is better to make the cover from a thick steel sheet with a thickness of at least 5 mm and reinforce at the edges, otherwise it will quickly deform from high temperature.

Sawdust boiler for hot water heating

Going even further, you can turn a long-burning stove into an efficient hot water boiler. The boiler body is best made from a pipe 40 cm in diameter with a wall thickness of at least 10 mm. The larger the boiler is, the longer the furnace will work on one load. If we take as a basis a pipe one and a half meters long, then you will not have to think about the furnace in the next 40 hours.

Chimney boiler working on sawdust

A pipe with a diameter of 7.6 cm is suitable for the blower, and 10 cm for the chimney. The cover is made of steel sheet 10 mm thick and must be reinforced at the edges. In the lid, as in the model described above, a handle is provided. The bottom is cut out of the same sheet and welded to the end of the future boiler.

4 steel pins 10–15 cm long are welded to the blower pipe on one side - this provides oxygen access and raises the part above the boiler body. It is also necessary to cut several holes 10 cm long and 0.5–0.7 mm wide at the bottom of the blower.

The chimney is welded to the upper part of the body, and a hot water tank is installed at the outlet of the chimney. It is advisable to fix the tank as close to the boiler as possible - this will increase the efficiency of the work. Two pipes are connected to the tank - supply and return, connected to the heating system of the house.

Before you start self-production sawdust stoves for water heating, it is necessary to carry out all the calculations of the system. You can only choose this option experienced craftsmenconfident in their knowledge and powers. For the rest, we recommend ordering a boiler from a specialist or buying a ready-made model.

Video: do-it-yourself sawdust oven

Nowadays it is very expensive to buy fuel for heating or pay for gas. Moreover, prices are constantly going up and up somewhere. Therefore, people began to look for alternative methods that can help keep the family budget. And the most the best way - this is to buy a stove on long burning sawdust. Sawdust can be found in any of the workshops that process wood. This is the so-called waste, which the workers definitely do not need (unless they have a sawdust oven, of course).

Thermal energy must be generated by a special structure that can be made with your own hands. In this article, we will talk about how to make a sawdust oven.

A long-burning sawdust stove is not complicated in its design, so a beginner in this business can also assemble it. One has only to draw a drawing for a start, understand the principle of operation of the oven - and that's it, you can assemble it. It is advisable, of course, to have experience with such tools as a grinder and a welding machine before assembling the furnace.

Maybe someone will say a potbelly stove on a long burning is also suitable for sawdust, but still it is intended for burning firewood. Most likely, long-term burning on sawdust will not work.

How units work on long-burning sawdust

This stove can easily be called a long-burning stove, since the fuel material does not just burn, but smolders. At the same time, a sufficiently large thermal energy is created, which can easily heat 2-3 small rooms... But wood waste cannot just be thrown into the unit on long-burning sawdust. You must first create a pressed look for them, and only then use it for its intended purpose. Then the pressed sawdust will smolder for a long time, while generating enough heat.

Compressed wood fuel will not burn as much as it does not contain oxygen, which contributes to the formation of fire during combustion.

What material can the oven be made of:

• It can be a metal barrel or a gas cylinder. These are round objects and will do better burning of pressed sawdust for the oven.
• You can also choose a rectangular combustion unit. You cannot use a potbelly stove for combustion, since the wood fuel must be poured from above in order to make it better and easier to press.

We must not forget that when burning wood fuel, the temperature inside will be very high (the same as when burning firewood), therefore the walls of the stoves on sawdust should be at least 5 mm.

How the oven should be assembled

A metal barrel, which has walls 5 mm thick, will now serve as an option. So where do you start?

• First you need to cut off the top (lid). It is worth creating a convenient cover from it, that is, attaching a handle for easy removal. Along the edges you need to make sides.
• Next, you need to take a metal sheet, cut a circle out of it (the diameter should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the barrel). In the center, make a hole with a diameter of about 10-15 cm. The resulting circle must be welded to the barrel along the perimeter inside at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ground.
• We need another pipe to complete the work. It can be called rocket, since it must have a conical shape. The diameter of the rocket tube should be at least 10 cm.If the height of the barrel is, for example, 1 meter, then the height of the tube should be 10-20 cm less, that is, 80-90 cm.
• Under the circle welded at the bottom, it is worth making a small hole that will serve as a blower. It is needed so that there is air circulation. Next, cut out a hole for the chimney. And we must not forget yet, attach the legs.

If you adhere to all these rules, then it will not be difficult to build a sawdust heater.

How a long-burning compressed fuel furnace works

In the circle that was cut and welded into the barrel, you need to insert a tapered pipe. Then you need to fill up the wood fuel, tamping it very hard. The better to tamp, the better the result will be. The boiler can be fired only after the pipe has been removed.

For this, a cone tube was needed. A chimney must be connected to the side opening of the sawdust-based furnace, and a cover must be installed on top. The lid should fit very tightly against the barrel so that the heat does not escape. Heat-resistant material will come to the rescue - it will definitely prevent heat from seeping out.

To start heating the unit, you need to set fire to the wood fuel at the bottom - where the hole for the blower is.

This can be done in several ways:

• Light a small fire of their wooden sticks.
• Make a fire from sawdust (which has not been rammed).
• If, before starting to heat the boiler, pour some liquid fuel (gasoline, diesel fuel, processed oils) on the bottom, then the lower layer of wood fuel will be saturated with fuel - and then it will ignite well. With good pressure, the wood will smolder slowly, thereby creating a long burning time.

One thing must also be kept in mind - the thrust on the tapered tube. If it is too big, then all the heat will go outside. The sawdust oven will then not fulfill its function 100%. And if the draft is weak, then part of the wood fuel will enter the room - and there will be no long burning.

For masters of their craft, a sawdust oven can become a real double-circuit boiler for heating. To do this, you first need to install a boiler (you can make it yourself), pass the chimney from the stove through it. To save space, the heat exchanger can be installed inside the boiler - then, during the combustion of wood fuel, a long combustion will occur, which will provide the whole house with warmth and comfort.

For general safety, the boiler must be installed outside, only for long-term burning it is necessary to thoroughly insulate it. Such a unit can be heated throughout the entire heating season. But first you need to properly load the wood fuel, because you cannot throw it up (like firewood), otherwise everything will quickly burn to the ground.

Sawdust - lovely stuff for heating houses and greenhouses.

They consist of wood, which means that when correct use they are only slightly inferior in heat capacity to wood.

You can get them cheap, and in some cases even is free.

• houses;
• makeshift;
• greenhouses.

We will also consider in detail all types of heating stoves and long-burning boilers that can use sawdust as fuel.

Before talking about the features of sawdust boiler rooms, you need to deal with yourself combustion mechanism this fuel, because it is very different from the mechanism of burning wood.

No matter how tightly the firewood is stacked, there is always air passes, and in sufficient quantity to support combustion.

Even loosely laid sawdust allows much less air, therefore, smoldering dies out quickly without supplying additional air to the combustion zone.

Sawdust burners only work efficiently when fire moves from top to bottom... Therefore, only a layer of sawdust with a thickness of 2–5 cm is constantly burning.

Due to the fact that only a small amount of fuel is involved in combustion, power sawdust boilers and furnaces operating on them, with the same with wood and coal heating devices 2–3 times less.

Another factor that reduces the power of the boiler or furnace is the low combustion temperature of sawdust.

If the wood burns with the correct air supply, then the flame temperature exceeds 1000 degrees, often reaching 2000 degrees in tongues of fire. And this powerful fire, because the whole mass of firewood emits pyrolysis gases.

The fire temperature of burning sawdust, even with the correct air supply, does not always reach and 1000 degrees due to low flow of pyrolysis gases.

Pyrolysis gases effectively escape only from the upper layer with a thickness 5-15 mm.

From burning or heated, but located below sawdust, gas comes out with difficulty, because it is interfered with by the sawdust located above.

Despite such disadvantages, sawdust perfect fit for boilers and long-burning furnaces.

Well compacted sawdust burns a very long time.

Often, a self-made iron stove burns for 5–8 days from one laying of sawdust, providing heating for the whole house.

Suitable heating systems

For heating with sawdust of private houses and any buildings, they use such systems:

• heating stoves;
• heating stoves with a water heating register or air heater;
• water heating with radiators;
• water heated floor;
• air heating;
• air heated floor.

Heating stoves heat space around you, therefore only suitable for not big houses ... At a distance of 10 meters from the stove, the temperature drops by 10-15 degrees, so in large houses the stove can only act as an additional heater.

Heating stoves with hot water register or air heater combine the advantages of furnaces and boilers. They provide the same heat as a conventional heating stove and heat the coolant, which flows through pipes or air ducts to remote rooms.

The large mass of the furnace turns it into heat accumulator, thanks to which you do not have to re-heat the boiler every 2 hours or put firewood into it every hour. The oven will keep the temperature coolant up to 6-10 hours, so you can heat it 2-3 times a day.

Water heating with radiators in each room can be used both with a water boiler and with a sawdust oven if it is embedded in it water register... Like any other water heating, it can work on natural or forced circulation of the coolant.

On systems with natural circulation hot water first rises to the ceiling, then descends into each room and flows either to the radiators or to warm floor... On systems with forced circulation the water is driven by a pump, so all pipes can be laid under the floor.

Water and air underfloor heating not only heats the room, but also improves its microclimate. In winter, it is very pleasant to walk barefoot on the floor, feeling its warmth with your feet. Main lack of warm floor - the high cost of materials and work, because it is necessary not only to lay air ducts or a water pipe, but also to insulate the space between the floor and the ground or foundation with high quality.

Air heating costs also expensive, like a warm floor, because it is necessary to lay air ducts throughout the house, and also to put automatic humidifiers due to severe drying out of the air. A heater with a heater can be used as a heat source.

The difference between stoves and boilers lies only in the presence of the boiler water jacket, that is, the space between the hot body and the outer casing is filled with water.

Here distinctive features each heater:

• bake - direct heating of air and surrounding space;
• heater - heating air for delivery to other rooms without heating the surrounding space;
• heater-heater - heating the surrounding space and heating the air for delivery to other rooms;
• register oven - heating of the surrounding space and water for delivery to other rooms;
• boiler - heating water for delivery to other rooms.

Therefore, heaters and boilers are installed in utility rooms and are often insulated outside. After all, it makes no sense to waste heat energy for strong heating. utility room, and the less heat is spent on this, the more it will get to other rooms.

Requirements for heating devices

For heating with sawdust, it is necessary to use boilers and long-burning furnaces corresponding to the following conditions:

• fuel combustion top down;
• big outer surface area (important for ovens);
• big heat exchanger area or a water jacket;
• large firebox volume;
• opportunity air supply into the combustion zone.

Thanks to small size sawdust, they can be fed into the oven or boiler automatically, which is even more increases time autonomous work heater. Most often, a screw feed is used for this - a rotating auger raises or lowers sawdust from the hopper and scatters them in the combustion zone.

When there is too much ash, the heater is stopped and cooled down to clear ash and reload with fuel.

For heating with sawdust, boilers and long-burning stoves of the Stropuva type (the Russian analogue of Bubafonya) are well suited. These devices implement the principle of top burning wood, and air enters directly into the combustion zone.

Furnaces and boilers for long burning, working on sawdust, can not only be bought, but also made by hand. IN homemade devices the requirements for heating devices described above are also implemented.

Sawdust furnaces and boilers

There are 2 types of fireboxes, which differ in air supply method:

• from above, through the descending air duct;
• from belowthrough a pre-made channel in sawdust.

The most famous furnaces and boilers of the first type are devices under the Stropuva brand. They are produced both in the form of furnaces and boilers.

As we said in the article (Fuel from sawdust), the difference between stoves and boilers is that the first heat the air directlyand the latter heat the coolant... Then the coolant, which can be both water and air, enters the rooms through pipes and heats them.

With drop-down duct

Stoves and boilers for long burning Stropuva arranged like this:

• the body is made of pipes with a diameter of 50-70 cm;
• in this case are cut two doors - loading top and bottom cleaning;
• passes through the lid telescopic tube (in home-made devices, it is replaced by an ordinary pipe of great length) - air duct;
• welded to the bottom of the duct steel circle thickness 10 and width slightly less than the inner diameter of the body;
• attached to the upper side of the disc chain or steel cable for lifting the air duct;
• welded to the underside of the disc corners or channelscreating an optimal clearance between the disc and the fuel;
• smoke outlet done slightly above the cleanout door.

Such boilers and furnaces work on sawdust as follows:

• lifting the air duct with a cable or chain, the furnace or boiler is loaded with sawdust, tamping as much as possible their;
• loading sawdust, from above lay kindling - paper and various chips;
• waiting for the kindling to light up, lower the duct and close the loading door;
• air supply is set to maximum, due to which the upper layer of sawdust flares up and the furnace / boiler goes into operation;
• fire and smoke rise through the space between the disc and the body and heats both the duct and the case;
• the oven starts radiate warmthand the boiler heats the water jacket;
• as the sawdust burns out, their level becomes lower and lower and the air duct descends behind it, such a system provides a constant flow of air into the combustion zone and optimal fuel combustion.

With bottom air supply

Boilers and stoves without a descending air duct are arranged and operate somewhat differently. They have the duct goes to the bottom of the firebox.

Such heating devices are loaded via hinged cover... The chimney is connected just below the hinged cover.

Hinged cover seal asbestos cord or tape.

During loading, a long wooden cone-shaped plug is inserted into the air duct (the upper diameter is 1.5–3 times the lower one).

The sawdust is tamped tightly and after the loading is completed, the plug is pulled out - through the resulting channel, air enters the upper burning layer of sawdust.

Kindling is laid on the sawdust and set on fire. When the kindling has flared up, close the hinged lid by setting the chimney damper and air regulator to the maximum draft mode.

After the sawdust flared up, reduce air supply and the furnace or boiler goes into a long burning (smoldering) mode.

Stoves, boilers and air heaters: which is better

When choosing a sawdust heating system, consider the following:

• water volume in a water jacket the boiler should make up 10-15% of the total volume of water from the heating system, so it is advisable to use forced movement of water through thin tubes;
• water boiler cost "Stropuva" starts from 65 thousand rubles, and the price of do-it-yourself sawdust boilers is 30-50 thousand rubles, including material cost;
• air heating not only heats, but also dries the air;
• water heating pipes can be hidden under the trim, and pipes air heating have to lay out due to the large cross-section (pipe diameter in cm is equal to half the area of \u200b\u200bthe room in m²);
• find industrial heaters operating on sawdust (boilers and ovens that heat air, which is then supplied to the rooms through pipes) for a long burning very difficult, and their cost often exceeds the price of the Stropuva boiler;
• the cost of manufacturing heaters is comparable to the cost of manufacturing a boiler;
• the costs of material and laying of water and air heating are approximately the same and amount to 15-20 thousand rubles for one room of 15–20 m 2;
• furnace manufacturing costs are 20-50 thousand rubles depending on the size.

Heaters and boilers are well suited for heating big houses, because they heat the coolant, which then flows through pipes or air ducts to remote rooms. For small houses a stove installed at the junction of all rooms is preferable.

If someone is not satisfied appearance iron furnace , it can be overlaid brick lattice - it will improve the appearance of the oven and will not interfere with the movement of air.

Useful video

In this video, the owner of a private house explains how prolong burning sawdust in the oven:

Outcome

Cheap or free sawdust effectively replace firewood or coal as fuel for heating. but it is not worth burning them in conventional furnaces and boilersbecause they are intended for other fuels.

For such heating, sawdust burners are made with their own hands or ordered from a master. The cost of buying or manufacturing such heating devices will pay off in 5-10 years if you have the opportunity to get the sawdust for free or cheap.

In contact with

Sawdust is an affordable fuel material that is environmentally friendly, cheap, high thermal conductivity and burning duration. To use it effectively for heating, you will need special heating equipment.

An excellent solution is an economical sawdust oven. It is intended for heating greenhouse and garage buildings, utility rooms, residential and utility rooms of a small area. In addition, such a unit can be built with your own hands from the available tools: iron barrel, cutting off a pipe or a waste gas cylinder.

What is the principle of the sawdust oven

The principle of operation of the stove on sawdust of long burning consists in the main temperature processes:

• Heat accumulation as a result of wood fuel smoldering and gas utilization through it into the chimney.
• The release of heat from the glowing fuel and the removal of pyrolysis gases into the chimney through the external circuit after their complete cooling.

Slow burning provides high heat transfer of heating equipment, reducing the consumption of fuel material and the total number of loads.

One fuel fill is designed for 8-10 hours of smoldering with the accumulation of a sufficient amount of thermal energy. In addition, such a furnace is equipped with a regulator for dosing the internal volume of air during combustion.

After loading the sawdust into the fuel compartment, all inlets are closed to reduce the flow of air masses from the outside. The smoldering process is accompanied by the release of pyrolysis gas, which contributes to the accumulation of a large amount of heat.

Features of using the oven

The operation of sawdust stoves differs significantly from traditional wood-burning or coal-burning devices. Fuel is loaded into a special fuel chamber, which is completely filled up to the chimney. On top of the sawdust, thin branches, paper or rags soaked in a combustible mixture are laid out. Next, a press is installed, and the chamber is closed with a lid.

After the start of the combustion process, the flap remains stationary, and the device is warming up until the next fuel supply.

Important! In a long-burning sawdust oven, do not add fuel in the middle of the process. The device does not open until the sawdust has completely burned out.

The combustion process itself begins in the center of the embedded fuel mass, then goes on to the circumference of the walls. As it smolders, the compressed sawdust significantly decreases in volume, which ensures a burning time of up to 10 hours.

The heat transfer coefficient of a potbelly stove on sawdust directly depends on the diameter and volume of the fuel chamber. Long and tapered designs provide faster heat up, while large diameter units provide slow, high heat dissipation.

The positive characteristics of sawdust ovens

Heating units have a number of positive characteristics:

• The duration of the combustion process with one laying of sawdust is from 8 to 18 hours.
• Autonomous work without the need for human control.
• Ergonomic body and light weight.
• High heat dissipation in a short period of time.
• Does not require the arrangement of an additional foundation.
• Ability to bookmark different types fuel material - sawdust, firewood, wood chips and pellets.
• Durability, safety and reliability of operation.
• Complete combustion of fuel and a minimum amount of ash.
• Reduced smoke emission.
• Easy to assemble at home from scrap materials.
• Affordable manufacturing cost.
• The ability to use for organizing hot water supply and cooking.

There are practically no significant drawbacks to such homemade stoves. The only negative point is that they are completely ineffective for heating large areas.

Long burning sawdust oven

A standard sawdust-fired long-burning furnace has a fairly simple and ergonomic design. The equipment includes the following structural elements:

• Chamber for loading fuel material.
• Blower for air supply.
• Chimney equipped with a damper.
• Protective cover.

The minimum set of elements ensures fast production of the furnace structure, and the finished furnace is economical, safe and reliable.

TO distinctive features similar designs include the following:

1. Combustion is carried out from the top to the bottom of the furnace.
2. The air distributor provides additional heat. The distribution unit is connected to a telescopic tube, so as the fuel smolders, the press sinks to the bottom of the chamber under its own weight.
3. The design does not require frequent ash removal.
4. Control over the level of traction inside the stove is carried out using a valve. The fuel is ignited with the housing open, after which the air distributor and cover are installed.
5. The controlled supply of the air mixture ensures correct smoldering of the fuel and good gas generation.

Factory analogs of furnaces are equipped with automatic control systems for the combustion process, fans and other devices. In addition, they ensure long-term maintenance of the optimum temperature for heating the air without additional fuel loading.

Sawdust boiler for hot water heating

Often, sawdust or wood chips boilers are used as the main heat source in heating systems.

Structurally, a long-burning sawdust boiler consists of the following functional elements:

• In the lower part of the building there is a grate and an ash pan (compartment for collecting ash). Some models of devices in this part are connected to a fuel machine.
• In the middle part there is a combustion chamber in which the combustion of fuel material is carried out. There are also special inlets or an air blower for uniform sawdust burning.
• A heating module is located above the combustion chamber.

Important! Automatic pyrolysis boilers for autonomous heating systems, they are designed for loading loose wood waste, but there are models that can only be heated with pressed raw materials in pellets.

Modern boiler models are equipped with reliable system automatic control for control over heat engineering processes inside the equipment.

The main advantages of a long-burning boiler include:

• Possibility of loading various fuels: wood chips, sawdust or pressed shavings.
• Efficiency at the level of 85-90%.
• High efficiency of air heating.
• Wide scope of use - for heating, hot water supply, cooking.

Manufacturing technology of a homemade sawdust oven

Homemade option heating furnace can be made from a bulky metal or cast iron barrel without mechanical damage and traces of corrosion. Optionally, it can be replaced:

• Gas cylinder.
• Sheet steel.
• Cut off the pipe.
• Volumetric fire extinguisher.

Additionally, the assembly will require the following materials:

• Pipe cutoffs, rebar or leg channels.
• Metal circles along the diameter of the container up to 6 mm thick.
• Metal door (homemade or ready-made).
• The pipe is 10 cm in diameter and 20 cm longer than the height of the barrel.
• Chimney pipe - diameter 10 cm, length 5.5 m.

Required set of tools:

• Bulgarian, cutter.
• Welding equipment.
• Hammer.
• Measuring devices - tape measure and building level.

Self-assembly of the device is carried out in accordance with the prepared drawing and includes the following steps:

1. Fuel tank preparation. The top of the container is cut off according to the previously applied markings. The bottom is removed in the same way, from which you can make a protective cover for the heater.
2. Furnace bottom construction. A blank is made of sheet steel along the diameter of the fuel chamber. A hole is cut in the center of the workpiece for a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm to supply the air mixture.
3. Manufacturing of a pipe for supplying oxygen to the fuel chamber. For this, an elongated pipe is used, in which longitudinal grooves or perforations are made with a grinder.
4. The perforated pipe is installed in the center of the bottom and fixed by welding. Next, a cover is made with a central hole with a diameter equal to the diameter of the pipe (the cover is installed on the pipe). Additionally, an edge hole is cut to strengthen the traction, on which the damper is installed. The pipe cover is equipped with bows for ease of use.
5. Chimney installation. A hole is made in the upper part of the container for the pipe diameter. A branch pipe is welded to it, which will connect the chimney to the stove using a clamp.
6. Supports made of selected materials are welded to the furnace bottom.

Process self assembly pyrolysis oven on sawdust, subject to all conditions, is quite easy to learn even for a novice master. A technically well-made device is capable of providing fast and economical heating of small rooms with economical fuel consumption.