Can compost be made in an iron barrel. How to make compost in a barrel: installation methods, laying of raw materials, maturation time. Calculation of the compost pit. Requirements and norms

On summer cottages the compost heap is an indispensable attribute. After all, compost is of exceptional quality organic fertilizer, which enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace manure, mineral fertilizers, or specially brought fertile soil, which is expensive today. In addition, collecting garbage and organic waste for composting, we simply clean our summer cottage area, and the territory around it.

The compost heap or containers for composting waste are usually placed in a sufficiently secluded area of \u200b\u200bthe site so that they do not catch the eye or spoil the view. Nevertheless, they should always be, as they say, at hand. With the "classical" implementation of composting, it is necessary to create three compost heaps (or three compost bins): in one bin, the process of laying waste is going on, in the other - the compost is maturing, in the third - the finished fertilizer is waiting for removal to the beds. With regard to the size of the compost heap, most authors agree that its width should be 1.5 m; height - 1.0 ... 1.2 m; length - up to 3-4 m. It is these dimensions that are given in all kinds of reference books, and for many years they were considered the minimum necessary to provide a sufficiently high temperature and stable humidity for the normal course of the composting process. According to the same classical technology, it was advised to shovel the contents of the heaps annually to aerate the maturing compost, that is, to accelerate the process of waste decomposition. The task, frankly, is not an easy one.

However, the composting technology on garden plot was constantly improved (and is being improved), so that the compositing process was accelerated 2 ... 3 times. So, to preserve moisture in the compost heap and to increase its temperature, the compost was covered with a plastic wrap with holes to provide air access. To speed up the composting, various accelerators of this process have been developed, for example, the drug "Tamir". And the composition of organic and other components of the compost heap is easy to choose such that the composting process in it will significantly accelerate. In other words, today it is not at all obligatory to follow the rather rigid recommendations developed back in the 20th century. So nowadays, the compost heap can be made very small, or for this purpose, waste can be stored in a compact container with a capacity of only 1 m 3, building it, for example, from boards.

However, remembering the cherished phrase - “laziness is the engine of pro-progress”, we will not build anything. Just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and tweak it a bit. Firstly, to provide air access to the composted mass in the lower part of the barrel along its perimeter, we will make about two or three holes, which, for example, we will drill with a drill with a diameter of 8 ... 10 mmor punch out with a punch (Fig. 1). Place the holes at a height of 20 ... 30 cmfrom the bottom of the barrel. No isolating gaskets between the barrel and the ground are provided for microbes and moisture should circulate freely in both directions. Secondly, we paint the outside of the barrel with a dark paint, due to which the walls of the barrel will heat up more under the sun, providing an increased temperature inside the barrel, which, of course, will speed up the composting process.

Cooking process; compost in such barrels is very convenient. We place 2 ... 3 such composite barrels on the site, placing them in those places where waste accumulates most quickly - near the summer kitchen (food waste), near the beds (weeds). To speed up the composting process, individual components of the future compost should be laid in a certain sequence, forming layers of a certain thickness.

So, at first, green plants (or substances rich in carbon) are placed in a barrel, making a layer 15 ... 20 cm thick from them. Then they put 5- centimeter a layer of manure (or nitrogen-rich substances). Then lime, superphosphate or ash are poured into the barrel (layer - 1 ... 2 mm), after which everything is covered with a centimeter layer of earth. So we fill the barrel to the top, again laying the layers of the components in the mentioned sequence - weeds, manure, ash and earth. Cover the filled barrel with a piece of polyethylene film with holes, which, so as not to be blown away by the wind, we fix on the barrel with a twine. And so that the prepared com post does not dry out, it is poured with water. Usually this watering is combined with watering the beds. Moistening the contents of the barrel, the plastic film is temporarily removed from it and a thin stream of water is directed into the barrel. Naturally, it is difficult to fill a barrel without a bottom with water, however, you should not overmoisten the compost mass too much. The mass is considered normal, which corresponds to the moisture content of the squeezed sponge. If there are ants in the barrel, it means that it has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted.

In order to "automatically" maintain the given humidity in the striker, plant a vegetable marrow, pumpkin, cucumber in a barrel. In this case, the plastic film is no longer needed. Watering these plants provides the required moisture content for the compost mass. The only difficulty with this option is the need to immediately fill the barrel with layers of compost to the top.

Experience has shown that in such a construction of a compost container - an old barrel, the process of composting is accelerated, so there is no need to wait any 3 years, as in the classical version. No need to shovel the compost. In one summer, you manage to get several hundred kgan excellent fertilizer.

Figure: one. Composting in an iron barrel: 1- hole in the wall of the barrel; 2 - green mass; 3- manure; 4- ash; 5- land; 6- polyethylene.

Gusev V. Old barrel instead of the compost heap. // Almanac "Do it yourself". - 2004, No. 3.

Are you against mineral chemical fertilizers? Do you want to minimize the use of chemical fertilizers in your garden? Then this article is for you. Take a look around. Right under your feet is what is correct use will become humus, which can be scattered in the garden, vegetable garden and flower beds.

Interesting fact:
Already in the 10th century, the secrets of composting
were known to the Slavic tribes,
for example, the Polabian Slavs.

Compost is a natural universal organic fertilizer, which can be obtained by any gardener, gardener and summer resident without unnecessary material costs and without much difficulty. Compost has a beneficial effect on the structure and fertility of the soil. You just need to be able to properly prepare it.

Rule 1
Where and what is better to compost

There are two options:

Compost pit/ heap
Compost box or barrel

Benefits of a compost pit / heap

No need to look for additional materials and no need to build anything. You just dug a hole no more than 0.5 m deep and 1.5 mx 1.5 m in size and put organic residues (kitchen waste, weeds, fallen leaves, etc.) into this hole (over time, a heap will turn out).

If desired, when the pit is filled flush with the ground, you can build on the walls. I have them about 0.5 m high. However, the compost heap has overcome this mark long ago. But I didn't build on anything.

If the compost pit / heap is supported by walls, then comfortable conditions will be created inside the pit for the work of anaerobic organisms that live only in the absence of atmospheric oxygen

Disadvantages of a compost pit / heap

There is a compost pit on my site, which has already turned into a heap. However, it is bulky, looks untidy (fortunately, it is located behind the barn and hidden from view). And most importantly, it is impossible for me to shovel it.

It will not be possible to obtain high-quality compost in a compost pit in 1 year. It will take at least 3 years. But it is visible and invisible in it. Worms are free there, they grow long and fat. It is in the compost pit that the husband digs worms when he is going fishing. And carp on such a worm is excellent.

(pelvis diameter - 40 cm)

Compost box or barrel

In the garden, I also put a basket and two compost barrels. It's comfortable. While plant residues for compost are piled in one container, in another container the compost matures under a lid, and the finished compost is removed from the third container for gardening needs.

I adapted a leaky metal barrel and a cracked plastic one for compost. I also punched holes in the bottom of the plastic.

The height of the barrels is no more than 70 cm, so that with my short stature it would be convenient for me to put plant residues in them and pour out the slops.

My compost box is made of boards. But you can make it from cement-particle boards 20 mm thick or metal mesh.

Benefits of barrels or boxes

Can be placed anywhere in the garden / vegetable garden.
Due to its compactness, it will not take up much space.
Looks more aesthetically pleasing than a pit / heap.
Thanks to holes and cracks, we get a kind of ventilation, which means that enough air is supplied to the future compost, which is so necessary for the life of microorganisms.
The finished compost can be taken from the lower layers (through pre-made holes) as needed.
In a barrel or box, the compost does not dry out and is not washed out.
A barrel or box with matured compost can be adapted for growing cucumbers or zucchini. It turns out a kind high bed.

Rule 2
What you can compost

1. All plant residues and weeds from the beds and garden, except:

* weeds with ripe seeds
* diseased plants
* weeds treated with herbicides

I put plant residues unsuitable for compost in a special pile hidden in the back behind the fence. Or I take it out of the site.

2. Cut grass, fallen leaves, straw, sawdust and, if present, peat.

By the way, about the fallen leaves.
Leaf litter significantly improves the quality of the compost. But it all depends on the type of wood. For example, lime leaves, which contain a lot of lime, quickly decompose and form neutral humus, thereby enriching the compost.

3. Household (kitchen) waste, slops.

If slops from the kitchen are regularly poured into the barrel with compost, then the barrel can be left off on purpose. And so it takes up to 3-4 buckets of water a day.

4. Ashes and, if any, bird droppings.

The alternation of layers occurs naturally, which has a beneficial effect on the compost. The fact is that vegetable peelings, weeds, cut grass contain a lot of nitrogen, sawdust - carbon, ash - potassium and trace elements.

Manure (slurry) I don't put it in compost. First, we do not have this "good". Secondly, with manure there is a risk of bringing diseases and pests into the compost. Here it is necessary to ensure that the compost is rotted for 2 years, or maybe 3, depending on the conditions.

It is not necessary to add soil to the compost heap. This can lower the putrefaction temperature and thus slow down the organic composting process.

Rich harvests for you,
Katerina Shlykova

Quoting and partial copying articles and stories, possibly indicating the source in the form active link to the corresponding page of the site.

Compost pile for the lazy
11/20/2009 Labels: humus, compost, compost box, manure, do it yourself

In summer cottages, a compost heap is a must. After all, compost is a unique organic fertilizer that enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace manure, which has now risen in price, and mineral fertilizers and specially brought fertile soil. In addition, by collecting organic waste throughout the site, we simply clear the area around.

Of course, the compost heap or boxes for composting waste should be placed in secluded places so that they do not catch the eye and spoil the view. Nevertheless, they should always be at hand. In the case of the classic composting solution, three sections are required for the production of compost: in one, the waste is laid, in the other, the compost matures, in the third, the finished fertilizer is ready for removal to the beds. In terms of size, many converge on the following proportions: width -1.5 m, height - 1-1.2 m, length - up to 3-4 m. These dimensions are given in many reference books, they are considered the minimum necessary to ensure the temperature and stable humidity for the normal course of the composting process. According to the same theory, it is advised to shovel the contents of the compost heap annually to supply air to the maturing compost, i.e. to speed up the process of waste decomposition. This task requires serious physical effort.
How to speed up the composting process?

But progress does not stand still, composting technologies are being improved and the compost production process has been accelerated by 2-3 times. For example, to preserve moisture and to increase the temperature in the compost heap, they began to cover it with plastic wrap with openings for air access. Also, to speed up composting, various accelerators of this process have been developed, for example, the drug "Tamir". To speed up the process, it is possible to select a certain composition of organic and other components of the compost heap so that composting will be significantly accelerated. This suggests that today it is not necessary to follow the rigid recommendations developed in the last century.
Composting in an iron barrel
1 - holes in the wall of the barrel;
2 - green mass;
3 - manure;
4 - ash;
5 - earth;
6 - polyethylene.

So a modern compost heap can be made compact or stacked for this purpose in a small container with a capacity of about 1 cubic meter. meter, making it from boards.

But, as you know, laziness is the engine of progress, so it may not cost anything to build. Just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and tweak it a bit:

First, to provide air access in the lower part of the barrel, we make 20-30 holes along its perimeter with a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm, or you can punch them with a punch. Place the holes at a height of 20-30 cm from the base of the barrel. And no insulating spacers are needed between the barrel and the ground - microorganisms and moisture must move freely in both directions.

Secondly, we paint the barrel on the outside in a dark color for better heating in the sun, which will provide high temperature inside and will speed up the composting process.

The process of composting in a barrel is very convenient and simple. Several such barrels can be placed around the site, placing them in places where waste accumulates most quickly. It could be summer cuisine, beds, etc.
Composting layers

To speed up the production of compost, fertilizer components should be laid in a certain order, forming layers of a certain thickness:

First, place green plants or carbon-rich substances, making them into a layer 15-20 cm thick.

Then put 5cm of manure or nitrogen-rich substances.

Then we tear everything with a centimeter layer of earth.

So we fill the barrel to the top, continuing to lay the layers in the same sequence - weeds, manure, ash, earth.

Cover the filled barrel with a piece of plastic wrap with holes, which we tie up with twine to prevent it from being blown away by the wind. From time to time we water the prepared compost with water so that it does not dry out. Watering can be done at the same time as watering the beds. But it is not worth overmoistening the compost mass too much. In terms of humidity, it should correspond to the squeezed sponge.

If there are ants in the barrel, then the compost heap has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted. To automatically maintain the desired humidity in the barrel, plant a zucchini, pumpkin or cucumber there. In this case, the film is no longer needed. Watering these plants will provide the correct moisture in the compost heap. The difficulty of the last method is only to immediately fill the barrel with all layers of compost to the top.

This design of the compost heap in the form of a barrel significantly accelerates the composting process. And there is no need to wait 3 years, as in the classic version. No need to shovel the compost. In one summer, you can get several hundred kg of excellent fertilizer.

Cultivated plants and trees require regular intake nutrients, and the soil is gradually depleted. Therefore, it is required to regularly apply additional fertilizing to the soil - organic and mineral. Chemicals have not only a positive effect on green spaces, so modern vegetable growers prefer not to use such means for fertilizing vegetables and fruits, but prefer dressings made from natural ingredients.

One such fertilizer is compost. It can be made from vegetable waste that remains after weeding in the garden or vegetable garden, as well as from food and other ingredients. To get a complete top dressing, the necessary elements must be rotted.

Pits are dug under the compost on the plots, where plant waste is piled, from which an excellent tool for improving soil fertility is later obtained. But some gardeners do compost feeding in old boxes, an iron barrel, and in any other containers that are no longer used for their intended purpose.

Below we will talk about how to make compost in a barrel, about the main advantages of natural fertilization, as well as about the nuances of preparing organic matter in this way.

Top dressing, obtained by decomposition of organic elements, has a positive effect on the composition of the soil, increases fertility, and there are practically no costs for its preparation. As a basis for compost, they dig a hole (or make a container in which it will re-heat organic waste), and then put all plant residues from the site there.

If there is no room for a hole in the garden (or there is no way to dig it), then an ordinary barrel is suitable for preparing organic fertilizer. So that the process of fermentation of plant waste is not accompanied by unpleasant odor, a lid is attached to this container.

Benefits over compost pit

Barrel pros:

• 1) it can be located in any free corner of the site;
• 2) It does not require much space for installation;
• 3) appearance more aesthetic (compared to the pit);
• 4) small holes can be made in the neck of the barrel for oxygen to enter, which is needed for beneficial bacteria to function;
• 5) it is possible to make a hole in the lower part of the structure through which ready-made compost can be taken;
• 6) in a barrel, organic fertilizer will not dry out or be washed out by melting snow or other precipitation;
• 7) cucumbers or zucchini can be grown in a container with already ripe top dressing.

But composting in a pit has benefits too:

• no need to start large-scale construction, it is enough to dig a square depression with sides 1.4 m and a depth of 0.5 m;
• the pit can be filled throughout the season without thinking about the possible lack of space;
• plant components are put into a pit and after filling it, if there is no way to dig another one, then a compost heap will grow on top.

But such depressions without covers with accumulations formed on top spoil the view of the site, spread an unpleasant smell around.

What to put in the barrel?

Make compost in the country with my own hands easily. A barrel of any size is suitable for this, but a large one is better - it will fit more waste. The only caveat is that there should be no metal parts in the container for the decomposition of organic residues that come into contact with decay products.

Put into the barrel:

• weeds, plant debris, small tree branches;
• grass, fallen leaves, straw, sawdust and shavings, peat;
• food waste and slops;
• wood ash, chicken droppings.

Weeds with seeds, diseased plant parts, and animal manure must not be added to the compost: along with it there is a risk of introducing pathogenic microflora into the prepared organic matter.

The procedure for laying raw materials

It is necessary to put all plant and food residues in a container in a crushed form so that they rot faster. Layers of organic matter are sprinkled with earth, peat or chicken droppings.

The process of composting waste is faster if water or slop is added to the barrel every day (for such irrigation, weed infusion, drunk tea leaves, coffee grounds are used).

It is best to alternate the following layers of organic matter and other substances:

• plant remains;
• bird droppings;
• wood ash;
• priming.

Maturation of compost in a barrel

To get rotted organic fertilizer, you have to wait: the rotting process in the compost barrel lasts 2-3 seasons. The time interval depends on the degree of grinding of the raw material and the presence of favorable microflora, under the influence of which decay occurs.

If you start using the produced top dressing at the end of the first season, then it will be better than simple soil from the site, but less valuable in terms of the amount of nutrients than 2-3 year old compost.

Signs of compost maturation

Determining the degree of readiness of organics is easy:

• in a high-quality fertilizer, all plant residues rotted;
• it is homogeneous and loose (no sifting is required before applying to the soil);
• you can safely take it in your hands - it will be soft and dry;
• completely rotted compost smells pleasantly of forest, mushrooms and fallen leaves.

You can prepare such a high-quality organic additive in any container, the main thing is to put only plant residues and food into it, and also regularly add moisture for better decay.

Fully matured compost is an excellent fertilizer for garden plants, flowers, shrubs and trees. It is used to prepare a nutrient substrate for growing seedlings. vegetable crops, added to the soil when transplanting indoor flowers (those that benefit from organic fertilizing).

This nutritional supplement is added in large quantities when digging a garden and vegetable garden in the fall, when during the season the plants have taken a large amount of nutrients from the soil.

Composting in a barrel is a simple and inexpensive method. Despite the duration of ripening, top dressing can compete with artificial fertilizers due to its effectiveness and safety for plants.