Description of knife sharpening for woodworking machines. Sharpening machine for planing knives Device for sharpening thicknesser knives

Sharpening knives for woodworking machines is a mandatory process that can be done by hand using special tools. Sharpening is the restoration of the previous cutting capabilities of hacksaws, shear shafts, planers, planers and other devices for wood processing.

• To sharpen the knife shaft of a planer, planer, you need an appropriate device;
• Sharpening work is done by hand;
• Craftsmen have learned how to assemble grinding devices;
• When restoring hacksaws, planing devices, sharpening the knife shafts, be sure to adhere to several recommendations, strictly follow the technology;
• If the teeth of hacksaws, knife shafts are not sharpened correctly, the quality of wood processing with tools will significantly deteriorate;
• Sharpening stones are a good alternative for a sharpening machine. But if there is an opportunity to assemble it yourself or purchase a grinding machine, be sure to use it.

Preparatory activities

If you need to sharpen knives for a woodworking machine, you should start with the mandatory preparation steps. It is not so important what parameters the knife shaft or cutting sheets of hacksaws have 13 mm, 20 mm or all 200 mm, they will need sharpening.

Some people prefer to give blunt shafts to special workshops, where they can easily restore the previous sharpness of a knife by 200 mm or a small milling cutter lathe... But both ordering a sharpening and buying new knife shafts is a financially costly business.

Preparation for sharpening begins with an acquaintance with the available means of restoring the surfaces of cutting tools and some recommendations.

1. To keep planers, planers, and hacksaws in working order, assemble or buy an appropriate sharpener.
2. Simplest, a budget option Is a whetstone. But the quality of processing directly depends on your ability to work with a stone. If there are none, it is extremely difficult to achieve the desired level of sharpening. Plus, the stones are not able to cope with all types of cutting tools, which are equipped with modern woodworking machines.
3. Choose a machine that is capable of sharpening at low speeds as this has a positive effect on machining quality.
4. The recommended equipment of the grinder is the water cooling system.
5. Carefully study the complete set of household woodworking machines. Often there is already a whetstone that is optimally suited for processing the knives used.
6. If the stone is not provided in the package, it will have to be purchased separately, leveled with a special device, and smoothed. This is the only way to sharpen the cutter shafts of planing machines with high quality.
7. The machines have a function for setting the angle of inclination, which is adjustable with a special screw. By turning the screw and changing the position of the sharpener, you will be able to properly fix the tool to the stone.
8. The next preparatory stage is the holder in which the knife shaft is installed.
9. If you are a beginner, it is not recommended to start your first job with 200mm knives. Start literally at 13-15 mm, and gradually you will learn how to process 200 mm and even 2 mm. For this you need to accumulate some experience.
10. The length of the knife is not a critical parameter, since the knife in the holder can move as far as you need.
11. Be sure to keep the shaft firmly fixed. Otherwise, you will get a significant distortion, due to which the quality of woodworking will suffer.
12. Study the operating manual of the grinding machine you purchased in detail. If this is a do-it-yourself tool, you will have to rely on drawings and available information on the network about a specific grinder project.

Sharpening

In order for the performed sharpening of knives for a woodworking machine to give a positive result, you can resume work with the equipment at the same quality level, you need to adhere to a few fairly simple rules.

1. The grinder holder can move left and right relative to the knife sharpening stone.
2. Do not let the blade go over the edge.
3. Fix the holder immediately 12 mm from the edge of the grinding wheel.
4. When sharpening knives of 200 mm or smaller variations, make sure the water cooling function is activated on the machine.
5. The cooling system requires constant monitoring. The tank usually has a small volume, so the water needs to be refilled periodically. If it ends, and the sharpening process continues without cooling, you risk ruining a rather expensive knife.
6. As the knives are processed, water from the cooling system can collect on the floor. Since grinders are electrical devices, consider draining water away from your feet and wear rubber shoes. In any case, standing in a puddle of water while working with an electric machine is always dangerous. Follow the safety instructions.
7. Keep the whetstone clean. It gets dirty pretty quickly with active use.
8. The grinding wheels of the machine tools are cleaned using a special device. Machines should be equipped with this cleaning bar, but if it is not in the set, then you will have to purchase it separately.
9. Each subsequent sharpening, according to the rules of operation, is carried out only on condition that the stone is cleaned. Therefore, after each sharpening, arm yourself with a cleaning bar, processing the machine with it.
10. On average, sharpening with a special machine takes about 10-20 minutes. It all depends on the type and size of the tool, which became blunt as a result of the woodworking operations carried out.
11. After sharpening the tools of woodworking machines, do not rush to return them to their place and continue working. After processing on the machine, the tool needs to be fine-tuned.
12. Lapping consists in applying a special paste to the surface of the cutting element. Proceed according to the instructions provided by the lapping paste manufacturer on the packaging. Different pastes may differ slightly in application methods.

If you did everything correctly, then the knife should turn out to be perfectly flat, sharply sharpened, devoid of any irregularities, burrs. Don't worry when the first time the result falls short. This takes some time and a little experience. That's why you should start with simple, inexpensive knives that you don't mind ruining.

For sharpening such knives, Tormek has an SVH-320 attachment. It consists of an independent support and mandrel.

The caliper is installed on the machine on two screw posts, each of which has an adjusting nut. Numeric scales are applied to the nuts for fine adjustment of the vertical position of the caliper. An aluminum rail is mounted on screw posts on two axes. Its design is such that the mandrel with the knife clamped in it performs strictly horizontal working movements. The angle of inclination of the guide, respectively, and the angle of sharpening of the knives, is adjusted using a spring-loaded adjusting screw.

There is a steel bar on the guide, on which there are two stop bushings. They serve to limit the movement of the mandrel along the guide. The bushings are set in the required position on the rod and locked on it with screws in the body of the bushings. Loosen and tighten these screws with the small hex wrench supplied with the SVH-320.

The sharpened knife is clamped into the mandrel with a U-shaped profile and five screws. It can clamp knives up to 300 mm in length and at least 13 mm in width. I saw somewhere in an advertisement for Tormek how knives with a length of 450-500 millimeters are sharpened with the help of SVH-320. But it seems to me that this is more a way out than the norm. In the upper part of the mandrel, in the center there is a pin, which, during sharpening, abuts against the stop bushings.

Well, it's time to get down to business. I fill the machine with water to the norm.

Sharpening this type of knives is a rather important undertaking. It is worth using the TT-50 attachment. The working surface of the abrasive wheel will be flat and clean. The rotation of the circle will be smooth, without beating.

The grooves that form after using the TT-50 can be used to a good cause. In this state, the abrasive wheel quickly removes the metal. And this is true when you sharpen knives with small dents from knots, and even worse, nails.

But in addition to the sharpening speed, it is necessary to achieve the purity of the RK sharpening.

To do this, you still have to use the SP-650 double-sided stone. With it, I only slightly smooth the working surface of the circle. In the process of sharpening, the grooves will smooth out pretty quickly, but I will sharpen the first knife much faster than the others.

Here are our experimental knives. Two knives from a Makita thicknessing machine, two knives from an electric planer. Makita knives are sharpened on one side only, electric planer knives are sharpened on both sides.

I put a long knife from the thicknessing machine into the SVH-320 mandrel without gaps and distortions. I tighten the center screw, then the adjacent screws, and then the outer screws.

I install the SVH-320 caliper on the machine, as shown in the photo.

I put the mandrel on the caliper guide. To do this, you may need to raise the caliper with the adjusting nuts.

Grinding angle adjustment with the SVH-320 can be done using a permanent black marker. Only this method is given in the Tormek manual, and I have already described it in the topic of sharpening hatchets.

I sometimes set the sharpening angle using the WM-200 goniometer, as shown in the photo. This method is good when the knives are constantly in my service, and I know exactly at what angle I sharpened them last time. Using the nuts on the screw supports of the caliper and the spring-loaded screw, we set required angle sharpening.

There are only two settings here, but they affect each other. At first, people have difficulties with fine tuning, but with the advent of skill and experience, the difficulties disappear.

Once the sharpening angle has been set, fix the SVH-320 caliper by tightening the set screws on the Tormek vertical rails. Then you need to make sure that the RK of the knife and the working surface of the circle are tightly and without distortions. The Swedes suggest doing this with two strips of tissue paper. I do it "on the light", ie I install on the opposite side of the machine desk lamp and watch the light gap between the stone and the knife's RK.

If everything is in order, we proceed to the "rough" sharpening of the knife. Longitudinal movements of the mandrel with the knife must be uniform. I apply a slight but even pressure on the stone. Otherwise, the RK of the knife will turn out to be wavy.

Having achieved a clear burr along the entire length of the RK, I proceed to fine sharpening. I take a double-sided block SP-650, smooth the working surface of the abrasive stone.

I make a "fine" sharpening. Several working passes are sufficient.

I get something like this RK:

Electric planer knives are sharpened in the same way. Three screws are enough to secure them in the mandrel.

Both sides of the planer knife are sharpened. Therefore, to sharpen two knives, you need 4 cycles of "rough - fine" sharpening.

The photo shows that I do not use stopper sleeves. I think they will be really useful when you have to sharpen a batch of knives of the same type. If you need to sharpen 2-6 knives, then visual control is enough, in my opinion.

I get the following RK:

I start finishing the RK knives on the "leather" circle. I pre-coat the circle with Tormek PA-70 finishing paste.

I do the finishing of the RK from the opposite side of the knife.

Similarly, I bring the RK knives from the thicknessing machine.

Lapping from the back side. It is important to achieve deburring along the entire length of the RK.

I get this result. Well-sharpened knives confidently cut a newspaper sheet. I am sure that the quality of the wood surface planed with such knives will delight the joiner or cabinetmaker.

One of the disadvantages of the SVH-320 is the water running down on both sides of the sharpener. The fact is that when you sharpen long knives, water flows down the sharpened knife first to the left and then to the right. The water hits the leather wheel and then the drive wheel. The rubber surface of the drive wheel gets wet and the machine starts to slip.

I have learned to work around these problems. To prevent water from spilling onto the work table, I first put a rubber car mat with shoulder on it. All spilled water will collect in it. And so that water does not get on the drive wheel, I put a substrate about 1 cm thick under the legs of the machine from the side of the leather circle.In this case, the water no longer drips onto the leather circle, but flows down the sharpened knife back onto the abrasive wheel.

I am mostly happy with this Tormek development. I have not yet met anything on which such knives could be sharpened better. Maybe over time someone will convince me.

Owners of planing machines and electric planers periodically face the problem of sharpening cutting edges. A well-sharpened tool will ensure clean wood processing even at imperfect angles and speeds. The easiest way is to sharpen knives and cutter heads with your own hands using specialized equipment.

Sharpening knives is essential

Planing knives require timely care because:

• blunt surfaces handle wood poorly;
• when processing soft rocks with blunt knives, the surface is covered with pile and irregularities;
• worn edges crumble;
• during planing with blunt edges, the engine and power units are overloaded.

Attempts to sharpen the blades with your own hands using diamond stones usually give short-term results. Due to poor quality dressing, the blade has to be resharpened soon. Therefore, professional carpenters use only mechanical sharpening.

Types and designs of machines

The machines on the market are distinguished by the knife feed mechanism:

• manually;
• automatically.

The hand-fed planer knife sharpening machine consists of:

• grounds;
• abrasive stone;
• carriages for fixing the knife.

During processing, the cutter moves progressively with the handle. The transverse movement of the torch is provided by a handwheel.

Automatic machines differ in size and range of options. Mechanisms for industrial applications installed on a powerful cast iron bed. The carriage is equipped with a support. You can set the speed of movement of the blade and the thickness of the removed layer of metal. Industrial machines allow you to sharpen several planing blades at the same time without changing the settings.

	Corvette K-470	WTG-163	GA-630	GA-850	ZX-1000
Maximum length of knives, mm	630	630	640	850	1000
Abrasive disc diameter, mm	100	150	125	125
Sharpening angle, degrees	35…55	up to 30	35…45	35…45	Up to 30
Engine power, W	550	550	850	850	1500
Dimensions, cm	90 x 48 x 42	100 x 60 x 65	100 x 54 x 120	120 x 54 x 120	190 x 56 x 150
Weight, kg	75	60	112	125	250
Add. intelligence	Equipped with asynchronous motor, wet sharpening possible	Processes cutters, circular saws	Wet sharpening possible	Can sharpen up to 4 blades, wet method	Provided for wet method, cup-type grinding disc, controlled via a remote control

Table 1. Characteristics of some models of planer knife sharpening machines

Compact automatic machines for home and small workshops are designed to machine one torch at a time. They also provide speed control and automatic tool feed.

Before starting work on any sharpening equipment, make sure that the bed is firmly attached. Vibration of the machine degrades the quality of sharpening and can lead to injury to the master.

Basic rules for using manual feed equipment

Such machines are used for one-time work and for sharpening small batches of blades with their own hands, since the processing process is quite long.

• Before starting work, you must make sure that the grinding surface is clean, without stains and streaks.
• The movement of the carriage should be smooth, without jerks and jerks. It is forbidden to stop it at the moment the cutter approaches the sharpener.
• The faster the carriage moves, the lower the sharpening quality. The optimum speed of movement is 5 - 6 m / minute.
• For correct sharpening the amplitude of the carriage movement is important. For a passage in each direction, it should move 10 - 13 cm beyond the end of the knife. This achieves optimum contact between the cutter and the sharpener, which must be interrupted before moving in the opposite direction.

Basic rules for working on automatic machines

• Planing knives can be sharpened dry or wet. In the second case, the blade is constantly washed with a stream of water. The wet method is more gentle on the blade and more effective;
• Before starting processing, it is necessary to set the parameters: sharpening angle, amplitude of carriage movement. The amplitude should be 15 cm more than the length of the knife;
• The blades are carefully fixed with their own hands in a mobile carriage.

Homemade planer knife sharpening machine

The design, made at home with your own hands, allows you to quickly and efficiently sharpen knives at one set angle. This will change the factory angle, so all blades will need to be re-sharpened. The quality of planing will not deteriorate, but may improve.

To make a device for sharpening straight blades of planing, planing and thicknessing machines with your own hands, you need:

• metal corner No. 50;
• round pipe with a diameter not exceeding 50 mm;
• electric motor from a washing machine;
• powerful spring;
• bolt with nut;
• plastic handle (knob);
• bulgarian;
• welding machine.

Making a machine with your own hands.

1. Cut off a corner about 50 cm long.
2. We bend two pieces of pipe in such a way that a stable support for the corner is obtained, we weld the legs. The corner should be located vertical plane to the master.
3. At the left end behind the corner we attach an electric motor. It is located on two points: a rigid axis and a powerful spring; The spring is tightened and depressed by the adjusting screw, moving the motor closer or further away from the angle guide.
4. We put on an abrasive wheel on the motor shaft.
5. The engine is started by a switch located on the bed in a convenient place.
6. We feed the tool using homemade vise from a piece of pipe 25 cm long, pressure plate, bolt with nut and knob We grip the knife in a vice and move it along the guide, holding the knob.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening is a painstaking procedure due to the hardness of the cut products, the frequency of use of the tool, and the thickness of the cutting edge.

The need for surgery arises regardless of the quality of the blade. How to do it at home? Let's try to figure it out.

In contact with

Why do you need to sharpen knives, is it possible to do it yourself

Any housewife knows that knife sharpening is very important: working with a blunt tool is not only difficult, but also dangerous. The process slows down significantly and requires serious efforts, as a result of which the muscles of the hand quickly get tired. In addition, the blade is capable of jumping off at the most crucial moment and causing injury.

You can take the product to the workshop, where you will quickly sharpen it. But where is the guarantee that the job will be done correctly and the blade will not be damaged? Moreover, this service is far from free and takes a significant amount of time. And he, at times, is very lacking in preparation for the celebration, for example, in order to prepare dinner on time. If the knife sharpener is at home, you don't have to go anywhere. The quality will depend only on your skill, the tools and devices used.

Why knives lose their sharpness

No matter how high-quality the steel of the blade is, sooner or later any knife becomes blunt. Why is this happening?

In the process of interaction with the cut material, the cutting edge loses microscopic fragments of steel. At the same time, its shape changes, and the blade loses its sharpness.

In addition, this process causes deformation of the blade. When cutting products, we apply an effort that almost always deviates in one direction or another. Of course, if this were the only reason, then it would not be necessary to sharpen knives so often. Another detail is important, the influence of which on the pungency is much more significant.

It is almost impossible to maintain the direction in accordance with the plane of the blade. As a result, the thinned hem is slightly curled, and it becomes much more difficult for the knife to overcome the resistance of the cut material. This process occurs especially quickly if the blade is made of low-quality steel.

There is a point of view that hot water can blunt the blade. To some extent, this is true. In the process of contact with steel, salts dissolved in water react with the metal, causing a change in its properties far from the better. But such an impact is not decisive and has no serious significance.

Knife prices

Basic principles of knife sharpening

There are several ways to sharpen. The choice depends on the time you have, the purpose of the knife, the tools and devices available.

The general principles are as follows:

• initial processing is carried out with a coarse-grained abrasive;
• subsequent grinding is performed with fine-grained material;
• for final finishing, leather or various pastes of varying degrees of abrasiveness are used.

To facilitate the work, purchased or homemade device for sharpening knives.

At what angle should knives be sharpened

The sharpening angle mainly depends on their purpose and, accordingly, the quality of the material from which they are made. What value of the sharpening angle should be for knives designed for different needs is indicated in the table:

In some cases, the angle can be reduced to 15º if the tool is used for a special purpose, for example, cutting fresh baked goods.

Applicable materials

Do-it-yourself manual knife sharpeners can be made using bars of varying degrees of abrasiveness. The latter are conventionally divided into the following groups:

• the roughest, which in this case does not apply (from 200 to 250);
• rough - to form the profile of the cutting blade of the blade. If no visible defects are found, such stones are not used (from 300 to 350);
• medium - like the ones above, they are rarely used, mainly for a rough adjustment of the blade profile (from 400 to 500);
• small - the main type of stones used for sharpening knives (from 600 to 700);
• very small - used to bring an already sharpened blade to a mirror-like appearance.

These stones are made from various materials... A do-it-yourself manual sharpener can be made from natural and artificial bars. Natural - from natural stone (corundum, shale, etc.). Artificial - made of synthetic materials or diamond. Moreover, natural wear out more and do not differ in large grain size.

Prices for abrasive bars

abrasive bars

It is preferable to wet the bars with water or soapy water before use.

Note:a bar should be used that has a length significantly longer than the sharpened blade.

In addition to abrasive stones, the following can be used:

• homemade devices serving as their holder;
• sharpening machines for knives;
• mechanical sharpeners;
• musats - devices for finishing a sharpened blade and representing several discs of metal nested one inside the other.

This list can be supplemented. We have given only the main tools used..

Manual sharpening rules

In order to sharpen the cutting edge correctly, you must follow the specified sequence of actions:

1. on initial stage we carry out work with a bar of medium or coarse grain, depending on the condition of the blade; it will be more correct to fix the bar against displacement;
2. determine the required sharpening angle; on each side of the blade, its size is half of the total; the main thing is to keep this angle unchanged;
3. movements should not be performed in jerks; no significant effort should be made;
4. the initial move is carried out from oneself, the edge must go along the bar with its entire length. Please note: when in contact with the bar, the blade should be directed at right angles to the direction of movement;
5. in the place where the blade is curved, it should be turned to maintain the desired angle;
6. at the end of the movement, the blade should not come off the bar, because this can cause it to dull or damage the side surface;
7. then we move in the opposite direction;
8. we continue the sequence of these operations until a bending thin strip appears on the blade; checking for its presence, you can not run your finger along the blade, because you can easily get hurt on sharp edges; if the knife is sharpened correctly, this edge should be the same width throughout the blade;
9. turn the tool over and repeat the operations until the same result;
10. we take a smaller touchstone and sharpen it further, but we no longer move to ourselves - only in the forward direction; since the grain size of the bar is less, the amount of burr along the edge is also reduced;
11. similarly process the reverse side;
12. we repeat these operations on both sides on an even smaller stone; if the burr still remains, we remove it with the finest-grained bar; we remind you that movements are still carried out in one direction - away from ourselves; the clamping force is reduced by the end of the operation.

The sharpening is over. The final finishing of the blade on a leather strip is also possible. An old belt will do just fine.

How to make a homemade device

It is quite possible to make a machine for sharpening knives at home on your own. Let's consider some of them.

Option number 1: the blade is fixed on a fixed platform

This device helps to sharpen the blade, providing the required edge angle. Below is a do-it-yourself knife sharpening device. Drawings and drawings.

A homemade knife sharpener can be made in the same way as shown in the figure.

The principle of operation and design are clear. The manufacturing sequence is as follows:

1. the base can be chipboard or steel plate; it is marked out and reamed for the rack and blade holder;
2. on the side of the base opposite to the rack mount, a hole is drilled for an M8 bolt to attach the knife clamp;
3. two M10 studs are made: one for the stand, the second for the holder for the abrasive bar;
4. a bracket is manufactured for attaching the holder stud to the rack (by drilling and bending a steel or aluminum plate;
5. the brackets of the grindstone holder itself are made from two corners;
6. a clamp for the blade is made;
7. the structure is assembled as shown in the figure.

This device has one drawback: it is not able to provide a right angle between the performed movement and the blade of the blade in the place of its curvature.

Option number 2: with a movable platform and magnetic holder

This problem is solved using the following construction. It is done in the same way, but a magnetic holder is used to attach the knife. Thus, it is possible to move the magnetic holder with the blade installed in it and turn it to the required angle. This knife sharpener can be fitted with a plate at the base or can be attached to the table as shown in the photo.

It will greatly facilitate the process of sharpening knives.

How do-it-yourself planer knives are sharpened

Any man who has such equipment in his house has dealt with sharpening his knives. To accomplish this, special tools and abrasives are used. Sure, if the machine is often used, it is advisable to have the necessary device at home... Let's consider how to do it yourself.

How to make a machine for sharpening a planer knife yourself (step by step instructions)

To make a do-it-yourself grinding machine for straightening this knife, you will need to select the necessary parts:

• plan washer;
• bed;
• electric motor;
• vacuum cleaner;
• fencing.

Manufacturing is carried out as follows:

1. The electric motor is mounted directly under the bed; be sure to take care of equipping it with control buttons "stop", "start";
2. A plan-washer is installed on the output shaft, which is closed by a square guard with a cut out groove;
3. On the lower plane of the table, a hole is made to fit the vacuum cleaner sleeve, the latter is designed to remove the dust generated during sharpening.

What you need to know

The electric motor may not necessarily be fixed under the base of the washer. It is possible to use a belt drive, but this will lead to a complication of the design.

Axes and saws can also be sharpened with this machine.

Sharpening the ice screw

The sharpness of the ice screw allows the fisherman not to make an effort to drill holes in the ice during winter fishing... But for this it is necessary to sharpen the knives of this device.

Sharpening methods are quite diverse. One of them is the use of a self-made tool.

How to make a machine for an ice screw with your own hands

Two steel strips with a thickness of 4 mm and dimensions of 60x200 mm are required. Automotive spring steel can be used but is difficult to bend. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a different material.

Working process

First, the frame of the device is made. The strips are bent so that the knife chamfers, which are pressed against the edges of the rounding, are flush and parallel to each other.

Then a clamp is made from another strip for the sharpened products.

Holes are made in the plate and the body. The pressure plate is bolted to the body, with the blades clamped. It is checked how tightly they adhere to the surface of the end part of the abrasive wheel.

If the angle of the knives is incorrect, the device should be modified by bending the arc of the body. After making sure of the correct placement, we disassemble the device and weld the stiffeners to the frame arc.

It is better to place the emery wheel horizontally, this ensures water retention on its surface. Cooling the knives with water will prevent the steel from overheating when sharpening.

Minus device

The disadvantage of this machine is the impossibility of using it if the chamfers on the knives are located at different angles. Since various manufacturers of ice screws have different design, a universal device can be of great help.

Implementation of a universal device for sharpening an ice screw

It allows you to overcome the above obstacle. The adjustment of the knives is carried out with screws, in addition, the possibility of reliable fixation in different positions relative to the abrasive wheel is provided.

This device will require door hinge with minimum stroke and M8 screw with nut. Holes with a diameter of up to 7 mm are drilled on the shelves of the canopy to fix the knives.

A clamping bar with a groove for a clamping screw is made from a metal strip 3 mm thick. They are boiled to the canopy slats.

In addition, several more holes can be drilled, for more versatility of the device, so that non-standard knives can be sharpened.

How to sharpen planer knives

This equipment is also widely used at home. It allows you to bring raw sawn timber to the required condition. Naturally, sharpening of knives for woodworking machines is periodically required.

To make the necessary devices, you will need different materials: steel, wood, etc.

The clamp itself is made of wood. Grooves are made on it at 45º. The knives are straightened with a belt sander or abrasive bar.

It is important to maintain an exact angle to ensure correct processing.

Sharpening with an electric sharpener

The equipment, equipped with an electric drive, greatly facilitates the work and reduces the duration of the process. But such devices require precision movement and experience.

An electric knife sharpener with your own hands is carried out with an installed handguard to support the sharpened product, with the ability to adjust the gap between it and the abrasive wheel.

Note:must be equipped with a face shield to protect eyes from dust.

Processing is carried out with the front surface of the wheel. You cannot use its side faces. The knife is installed on the hand-hand with the cutting edge up and is held along the axis of the product. The movement is carried out evenly, smoothly, without strong pressure.

After sharpening on both sides, the final finishing of the cutting edge should be carried out with fine-grained stones until the curvature of the edge of the blade completely disappears.

Of course, a knife can be made with your own hands, but specialized sharpeners are offered for sale, which are absolutely safe and allow you to freely sharpen knives for any purpose.

To do this, after turning on the device, the knife is inserted into the desired slot and is evenly carried along it until the edge is completely sharpened.

These attachments provide excellent sharpening quality. Their disadvantage is the impossibility of adjusting the angle of the cutting edge.

Useful video: ideas for a knife sharpener

Whatever fixtures and tools you use, the main thing is to observe safety when performing this operation... Remember that it is much easier to cut with a blunt knife than with a sharp one. Therefore, let the knives always be sharpened in your house.

For sharpening planer and planer knives, special machines are used. The work can be done by hand, the machine is assembled independently, if necessary. Sharpening is carried out according to certain rules, several options are used. It is required to show attention, not to violate the technology.

Otherwise, knives for planers, planing and planing machines will be poorly processed, they will not be able to fully perform their functions. In addition to special equipment, sharpening stones can be used for sharpening, but a small grinding machine that has cooling is best suited for work.

Preparatory work

Everyone who has a planer or planer faces the problem of sharpening knives. It is expensive to constantly buy new ones, especially since knives can be easily sharpened with your own hands, using special machines or sharpening stones for this. If the planer is used often, like other woodworking equipment, then it will be inconvenient to constantly give the knives to the workshop for sharpening. Better to assemble the machine yourself. To keep the jointer always in working order, it is recommended to sharpen it at home. The easiest way to do this is with an ordinary sharpener. You only need to take a sharpener with low speed, its quality must be high. Water cooling must be available.

You can also use a sharpening stone, but it must first be leveled with a special device. Usually it comes complete with a small grinder, so you don't need to look for such devices in addition. After the editing is done, it is necessary to smooth the stone, for this a block is used. Sharpening the planer knife without this step will be problematic.

What to do next? It is necessary to set the angle of inclination. A special screw will allow the blade to be properly fixed in relation to the position of the grinding stone. With the help of this screw, in the future, you can set any angle of inclination of the knife. Next, take the holder that comes with the machine. A planer knife is installed in it. Experts advise to start sharpening knives that are at least 13 mm wide... The length is not critical; if necessary, the knife can be moved to any position in the holder.

In the holder, the knife must be fastened securely, otherwise the sharpening will be performed with a bias, and this will worsen the quality of the jointer work. How to fix the knife in the holder correctly? While holding the blade in the desired position, tighten the clamping screws until they stop. To control the sharpening angle, you must use a marker, it marks the sharpened chamfer of the knife. It is with this simple method that you can easily control the quality and progress of work. Sharpening will be correct if the corner of the knife touches the stone. It is necessary to rotate the stone by hand to determine if further adjustment is necessary.

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Sharpening process and rules of work

The holder moves to the right and left, movements are made relative to the grinding stone. The blade must not be allowed to extend beyond the edge. It is best to immediately install the holder 12 mm from the edge of the working wheel. If sharpening is done, water cooling must be supplied. You will have to top up the water in the tank, you need to make sure that it does not run out. Ensure that water does not accumulate on the floor near the feet. This is for security reasons.

When doing the work, it is necessary to ensure that the stone remains clean at all times, since it is salted quickly enough. A special bar is used for cleaning, it is recommended to carry out this procedure often, since only clean stones can be used for sharpening. The choice of the stone itself depends on what kind of knives are used. Manufacturers today produce planing knives from mild or hard tool steel, so working conditions will vary.

Sharpening takes about 20 minutes, then fine-tuning is performed. For this, a special paste is used. After polishing, there should be no burrs on the surface, otherwise the planer knife will not be ready for use. It is easy to check, a finished knife with excellent sharpening should easily and evenly cut a sheet of paper by weight, leaving a neat cut.

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How to make a machine with your own hands?

To sharpen the planer knife, you need to use special sharpening machines. This is especially important when planing, planing and other woodworking equipment is used frequently. The grinder has a compact size, it can be installed even in a garage or small shed on summer cottage... Before starting the assembly, you must prepare the appropriate tools that will be used during assembly of the grinder:

• the table on which the work will be carried out;
• faceplate;
• vacuum cleaner;
• engine;
• cover for the machine.

You need to start assembling the machine by finding a suitable faceplate. It is one of the most important parts for a grinding machine. All planer knives are quite narrow, so they can only be sharpened with a faceplate. suitable type... Then the sharpening work will be of high quality, safe and fast. The flat plate takes the bulk of the cost of all equipment. It is more profitable to make a grinding machine on your own, you will not need expensive parts for it. Manufacturing will be fully justified if you have to often carry out woodworking.

You need to buy new planes, it is recommended to take elements of American or German production. They have the highest quality, and the cost fluctuates at the level of 25,000 rubles. Next, you need to select an engine for the future grinding machine, it is best to take a 1-1.5 kW motor, you can even use a used element. Motors from old ones are great for the machine washing machines, but first you need to make sure that the engine is working.

The motor is mounted under the table top, the faceplate is mounted to the moving part.

It is imperative to provide for a button to turn on / off the machine. It should be located within the reach of the hand. The faceplate is covered from above with a casing, which is made in the form of a square. One corner of the casing must be cut off, since this side will be sharpened planing knives do it yourself. A hole is made in the lower part of the tabletop, it will be intended for the pipe of the vacuum cleaner, with the help of which all dirt that occurs during sharpening will be removed. In addition to sharpening planer knives, a similar machine can be used for other work, for example, for processing ax blades, saws and other tools used in a summer cottage.

The planer knives can be sharpened in different ways. Special sharpening stones are suitable for this. However, the compact grinder can be assembled by yourself. It will be used to sharpen a variety of tools, including saws and axes.