What size should an annual apple tree seedling be? Technology of growing apple seedlings. Pruning a young apple tree in spring

Thanks to the pruning of young seedlings, the subsequent appearance mature tree. In addition, the amount of the future harvest depends on the correctness of the process. Therefore, the question arises: "How to prune an apple tree seedling?". Let us consider in more detail the technology of this action at various stages of the formation of a fruit tree.

Basic information about pruning apple trees

In order for the formation of the crown of apple trees to occur properly, it is necessary to perform timely and regular pruning. Also, this process contributes to the stimulation of proper development, growth and the formation of full-fledged useful fruits.

By pruning the branches of an apple tree, you can achieve various necessary goals, namely:

The formation of not only a beautiful and regular crown, but also comfortable for the future collection of ripening fruits.
Strengthening the young by removing competing, but less developed neighboring shoots, which contributes to the full growth of the entire seedling.
Promoting the quantitative growth of branches that can bring a full harvest. For this, dried and improperly developed specimens are removed.
Removal of some branches to fully illuminate the entire tree with the rays of the sun.
Preparatory pruning for the period of winter cold.

It is important to know! Pruning of apple tree seedlings is carried out during the period of spring and autumn. Very rarely this process is performed in the summer. Right choice time of the year depends entirely on the need to obtain a certain result.

But the question still remains, how and when to prune apple trees, because the vague concepts of "autumn" and "spring" do not give an exact answer. We will try to find answers to all the questions posed.

Rules for pruning seedlings in the autumn

Late autumn is the most lucky moment for pruning apple seedlings. This is the period when the leaves have completely fallen off and the tree is going into hibernation. At this time, the main task of pruning is to remove dead and damaged elements.

Important! In no case should you start processing a tree after the onset of frost, as this can lead to the death of the entire plant.

So, next question: "How to prune an apple tree in the fall?". There is a certain scheme here, which determines the sequence of actions:

Initially, you need to start eliminating the largest specimens that, for various reasons, have been damaged or rotting.
In places of abundant saturation with branches, it is required to thin out the crown. In the course of this work, it is worth removing only the weakest and inferiorly developed shoots.
It is also important to remove branches that grow at an acute angle relative to the trunk. This type can quickly break under the weight of ripe fruits or cause inconvenience at harvest.
Cuts must be processed, as winter cold can kill an unprotected tree. For this, a special garden var is used. You can also use oil paint.
All removed waste must be incinerated, as they can become sources of the spread of diseases.

How to prune an apple tree in spring

Before pruning an apple tree, it is also important to choose the right period and study the exact technology for carrying out this action.

The period for pruning is selected as early as possible, namely before the swelling of the kidneys begins.

The spring period is the most successful time for this process, since the tree recovers faster and gains strength.

Consider the rules for pruning apple trees in spring:

For cuts, you need to prepare a garden pitch in advance.
In the process of trimming, it is necessary to ensure that the cut passes over the eyes.
Last year's shoots should definitely be cut off.
The length of the cut branches depends on the variety of the fruit tree: dwarf species - pruning is performed on 2 or 3 eyes; apple tree of medium height - at least 5 eyes; tall apple tree - 8 or more eyes.

In addition to these technologies, there are certain recommendations for the processing of annual and biennial apple trees.

Processing of an annual seedling

When planting seedlings of apple trees that do not yet have branches, it is necessary to immediately cut off the top so that in the end a small tree remains, no more than 1 m high. This method allows new branches to develop already in the first year of life, so it will soon be possible to practice crown formation.

In the event that annual seedlings already have branches, then the following processing methods are used:

Young shoots are removed along the entire trunk up to a height of 70 cm.
Next, specimens that extend from the trunk at an acute angle are removed.
Branches extending from the trunk at a right angle must be shortened to the third or fifth kidney.

Interesting! A tree with almost horizontal branches provides a ripened crop much earlier. In addition, the crown of this type is much stronger than other types.

Processing a two-year-old apple tree

At the age of two years, an apple tree seedling already has a formed trunk of small diameter and branches extending from it. After planting, it is required to remove all unnecessary branches, leaving from 3 to 5 of the most developed shoots. The angle of the connection between the trunk and the branch must necessarily be wide enough. Eventually, the branches left behind will become the strongest branches of the mature tree.

The most central branch must be formed from the most mature and developed eye. It is from here that the branch should grow in the vertical direction. It is also necessary to take into account that the branch should be longer than the rest by several buds. All other branches are pruned as follows:

Instances located at the bottom of the tree should be longer.
In the upper part they are cut so that their length is shorter by a distance of at least 30 cm.

As a result of these actions, a crown is formed, which has the following characteristics: sufficient strength and attractive roundness.

After that, the planted and trimmed seedling is not recommended to be touched for several years. Only the removal of damaged and dried branches is allowed.

Conclusion

In order for the planted apple tree seedling to give a full harvest as soon as possible, it is necessary to perform timely and regular pruning in accordance with all requirements. It takes a little effort to be proud of self-grown beautiful fruit trees.

A good garden will delight its owner for many years.

But to get such a treasure, you need to work hard first.

At any stage you can make a mistake, which will bring all efforts to naught.

The “wrong” seedling may simply not take root. Taking a seedling from an apple tree on your own without a clear understanding of how to choose an apple tree seedling is too risky.

In this article, we will tell how to avoid these mistakes and successfully grow an apple tree that will delight for years to come.

This first step should not be underestimated. It depends on the choice of seedling whether you can grow a healthy tree.

Take it seriously:

Find out which apple varieties suitable for your region. This is very important, because a young tree, unadapted to such a climate, may die long before it begins to bear fruit.
It is best to contact your local garden organization or nursery with this question. Their addresses can be found on the Internet.
Pay attention to customer reviews. Approach responsibly to a choice of firm.
Most difficult stage choice is practical. It all depends on knowledge and care.

Selection of seedlings in the nursery.

First of all, everything seedlings can be divided into three groups depending on the level of the rootstock, i.e. stem and root system. When choosing one or another type, you need to take into account the features of the site.

There are such types:

IMPORTANT! If there are thorns on the seedlings, do not buy it. Most likely, a wild animal is given out for a varietal apple tree.

Contact of the root system with groundwater is highly undesirable. Such an apple tree will be weak and sickly, its harvest will be extremely poor. When buying a seedling, do not forget about the importance of this factor.

The ideal age of the seedling is 1-2 years. The youth of a tree is a guarantee that it will take root better in a new place.

How determine visually the age of the seedling? annual plant should not have developed branches; in a two-year-old, 2-3 additional branches can be counted.

Examine the root system. It must not be damaged. healthy roots slightly damp, but by no means rotten; they should be elastic, not brittle.

The state of the bark also has great importance. Gently scrape off the bark with your fingernail - the stem should be green.

Better do not buy trees that have leaves. They most likely won't survive.

How much do apple seedlings cost?

Seedlings with an open root system are cheaper than those sold in a container. The cost of an apple tree seedling depends on the variety and quality of the tree, as well as specifically on the selling company. On average, focus on the price of about 300 rubles, although some nurseries may ask for 800 rubles.

Watch the instructional video on how to choose the right apple tree seedling:

How are apple seedlings grown?

Brave gardeners can try grow a seedling yourself. It's not that difficult, especially if you have at least basic knowledge in stock school course biology. Consider the main methods.

Growing apple seedlings from seeds

Method one -. Even small children think about whether an apple tree will grow from an accidentally dropped seed.

In reality, everything is not so simple. There were cases, from a seed grew beautiful tree with delicious fruits, but there is a possibility that the grown apple tree will not lose the "mother" properties of the game and all your efforts will be in vain.

But if difficulties possible risk you are not afraid, follow our advice:

Rinse the mature brown seeds in running water to remove the substance preventing it from germinating. The best thing soak seeds in water for 3 days.
Then place the seeds in the refrigerator (this process is called stratification). To do this, prepare dishes filled with slightly damp sand. The seeds should stay in the refrigerator for about two months. It is best to start stratification in early January.
Seeds should germinate in the refrigerator. They need to be planted in specially prepared boxes (at the bottom of which drainage should be poured, on top - a nutrient mixture). Boxes should be placed on a well-lit window sill.
It is easy to recognize the wild still on early dates: its leaves are bright green, and the shoots already have short spines. It's better not to waste your time on them. Or use the wild as a rootstock, to which the desired variety has already been grafted.

From a cutting

Apple trees are also propagated by cuttings.

How to make a seedling from an apple tree branch has long been known. In order to grow a tree in this way, you need prepare a rootstock- choose a tree grown from a seed or (much better) a wild game.

Preparing the cutting for rootstock.

To the roots of such a tree, you need to graft the cutting of the tree you need. It is very important to correctly combine the rootstock and the stalk.

For the wild bonsai better fit the stalk of a columnar apple tree, and the apple tree grown from seeds will well accept the stalk of an ordinary tall tree.

The stem must be not older than one year. We will describe in detail how to make a seedling from an apple tree below.

How to grow apple seedlings from a branch

Another way is dig a branch into the ground.

In autumn, the tree is planted with a slope so that the young shoots touch the ground. In the spring, the branches are attached to the kidney with staples. During the summer, they need to be spudded, and in the fall, ready-made seedlings are obtained.

Air layering or how to get seedlings from an old apple tree

Provide soil with a place where a new root system will form.

It is more difficult to graft a seedling from a branch, so it is often more appropriate to use the method of air layering.

For the twig to take root, you need to surround it with moist soil. To begin with, select a branch that will become a seedling - healthy, without branches, as thick as an ordinary pencil.

When the snow melts, this branch needs put on a polyethylene sleeve. Attach it preferably with electrical tape. It will remain on the apple tree until the onset of sustainably warm weather. The sleeve is then removed.

Need to find the border between the adult branch and the new growth- from this point, about 10 cm recede and an annular incision of about 1 cm is made, small incisions are also made to the left and right of it. All kidneys above the incisions must be removed.

Then a sleeve with a container is put on the branch. In the first three days in a container (you can use a cropped plastic bottle) place root growth stimulating liquid, then specially prepared soil, which must be constantly wet.

Any of these methods can be tested independently at home. It is advisable to consult additionally with competent specialists.

See detailed video how to get a seedling from an apple tree by air layering:

You can take a seedling from an apple tree yourself. You don't have to be an experienced gardener to do this.

If you want to receive varietal apple tree, then you can use the parent shoot, which is sometimes enough just to dig in correctly.

The procedure is carried out in the spring. You can use young shoots no more than 1 year old.

They are placed in a hole about 10 cm deep. The twig is attached to a peg. Thus, a shoot of 30-40 cm should remain above the ground. It is also necessary to rid the nearest area of weeds.

To be sure, root several branches in this way. In a year, some of them will take root. In autumn, the seedlings will be ready for transplanting.

IMPORTANT! Remember that large-fruited apple trees take root in this way worse than other varieties.

Pruning an apple tree

Do not forget that this is a rather complicated process, which must be carried out strictly according to agrotechnical instructions.

You need to cut the seedling when it is at rest.

In a warm climate, the ideal time will be the autumn-winter period, in a temperate climate, the end of winter. Anyway, pruning should not be carried out at temperatures below -10 ° C.

The first pruning takes place in the first year after planting. Cropping in such early age will provide the laying of future skeletal branches.

One year old seedling you need to remove the side shoots that are up to 70 cm from the ground level. Above this point, only those branches that form an acute angle with the trunk are removed. If the angle that the branch forms with the trunk is close to 90 °, the branch is cut to the fifth bud.

two year old seedling looks almost like a mature tree. How to prune these apple seedlings? In this case, the following goal is pursued - to leave from 3 to 5 of the strongest shoots that form a wide angle with the trunk.

In the future, they will become the main branches of the tree. Need to form and center conductor. It is best to do this from the most developed kidney, which is about 3 kidneys higher than the others. The lower branches should be longer than the upper ones. So wood.

Next 3-5 years It is better not to touch the apple tree, let it develop on its own.

How to distinguish a pear seedling from an apple tree?

Distinguishing different types of trees at such a young age is sometimes difficult even for experienced gardeners.

Before the leaves appear, it is almost impossible– the seller in the market could experiment with vaccinations. Recall general rules , which will allow you not to become a victim of fraud and determine how to choose an apple tree:

In annual apple trees, the color of the shoots is dark red-brown, and in pears it is yellowish-green.
On the shoots of apple trees there is a slight pubescence, pears usually do not have such a feature.
Pear shoots have more pronounced cranking.
The buds of apple trees are wide and large. They are close to the run. The buds of pears are pointed and small, do not fit tightly to the shoot.
The buds of apple trees swell and bloom later than those of pears.
The root system of apple trees is more branched, while that of pears is stem.

When buying a seedling, you don’t need to know about the features of the leaves of pears and apple trees. If the seedling already has leaves, you should not buy it. It is unlikely to take root successfully, and your efforts will be in vain.

How to grow an apple tree from a seedling?

First to any gardener you need to choose the time of planting the apple tree.

It can be spring or autumn, depending on the specific circumstances and climatic conditions of your region.

In any case, tree care begins in the spring.

Prepare the soil before planting. This means that the soil needs to be well loosened, rid of weeds, fertilized (depending on the time of year) and dug again.

The planting hole will be a house for the seedling, it will reliably feed it.

Responsibly approach the choice of location. It should be a well-lit place, preferably protected from the wind.

IMPORTANT! The preparation of the landing pit should begin 2 months before the actual planting.

The seedling is still too vulnerable. Our task is to protect it from the negative factors of weather conditions. The tree must be fastened to a stake. It will be possible to remove it 2 years after planting. This must be done with extreme caution so as not to hurt the root system.

In the first week after planting, regular watering is very important, which will help not only saturate the tree nutrients but also compact the soil. Gradually watering intervals need to be reduced, but in hot weather it is impossible to spare water for a young tree.

Trunk area is a must mulch. To do this, use compost, chicken manure, biohumus and rotted manure, on top of this layer you need to put a small layer of straw.

Watch the video on how to mulch trees:

Necessarily you need to prune a one-year-old and a two-year-old apple tree to form its skeletal branches.

In summer, all care consists in regular watering and protecting the tree from pests. To avoid using chemicals, try attract birds to the garden.

Making it easy - arrange feeders on the branches of trees. This will let the birds know that a delicious treat awaits them in your garden.

If pests appear, you can collect them manually from a young tree. In hot weather, do not water the tree during the day to avoid burns.

In order for air to enter the root system, make punctures 30 cm deep at a distance of 60 cm from the trunk.

Preparing apple seedlings for winter.

A young apple tree should be spudded to a height of 10–20 cm;
The area near the trunk must be mulched with humus or peat;
You can apply nitrogen or potassium fertilizers. The lack of these substances will affect the quality of future fruits, so it is best to use complex fertilizers;
The trunk of an apple tree must be whitewashed with a solution of chalk;
To avoid breakage of a weak young tree, it can be preliminarily.

Apple tree sapling dries up, how to save?

Before you solve a problem, you need to understand it reason, because of which the apple tree may begin to dry. Then you can understand how to save a dried apple tree seedling.

To prevent the seedling from developing can grow too near trees or shrubs. In this case, you can transplant the tree to the required distance.

The problem can be caused by too close groundwater. Excess water simply displaces excess air from the soil, which is so necessary for the young root system. You can also solve the problem by transplanting or regularly loosening the soil.

If groundwater interferes with more than one apple tree, you can dig drainage ditches to help get rid of excess water.

IMPORTANT! The key to successful apple tree growth is air access to the root system, so regularly loosen the ground. Do not plant an apple tree in a sandy or clay bud.

Gardening is not only difficult, but also very interesting. To grow from a seedling good apple tree, you need to show both intelligence and care.

Remember the most crucial stage is the choice of seedling.
It is better to buy them from professional breeders. In the spontaneous market, you can unknowingly purchase another tree (an apple tree can be easily confused with a pear before the leaves appear).
Don't over-fertilize in the first year. Enough watering and mulching for the tree.
Do not forget to rid the young apple tree of weeds. In the autumn, you can make.
A very important procedure is tree pruning. Don't forget to do this to form the "skeleton" of the apple tree.
Pests can negatively affect the development of an apple tree. However, try not to poison them in the early years. chemicals. Engage to this case of birds.

Involve birds for natural pest control.

Responsible landing site. An apple tree can be destroyed by groundwater lying too close and trees and shrubs growing nearby.
Ensure sufficient air access to the root system. He is very necessary to her.

A responsible approach to business will ensure your success.

In contact with

The most literate buyers already know that there are GOSTs for planting material (GOST R 53135-2008), according to which certain biometric requirements are imposed on seedlings, depending on age, rootstock and their growing area. But few people know that the choice is not limited to the variety, stock, age and marketability of seedlings. There are also their various modifications related to the peculiarities of growing technologies.

Growing technologies

According to growing technologies, apple tree seedlings are divided into one-year-old, branched one-year-old, two-year-old, knip-baum (knip-bom), modified two-year-old and modified knip-baum.

Which seedling to choose and why do we need these technologies? You need to know the answers to these and other questions before you start laying an orchard.

Cultivation of annuals

The simplest and most common technology for the production of seedlings is the cultivation of a standard one-year-old. In the first field of the nursery, rootstocks of the first and second commercial varieties of different growth strength are planted. winter, spring vaccination or summer budding is carried out at a height of 5–15 cm. In the first and second fields of the nursery, root fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is carried out in spring and autumn. Seedlings with any technology are grown in a well-lit area, subject to all agrotechnical measures in combination with efficient irrigation.

For the cultivation of branched annuals, only rootstocks of the first commercial grade are used.

In addition to root top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers, in the second field of the nursery, foliar top dressing and treatment of occulants at a height of 50-60 cm with growth regulators are carried out, in combination with 2-3-fold pinching of the apical (upper) leaves while maintaining the growth point.

The advantages of these technologies are the ease of growing planting material, low price, good growth and survival of seedlings in the garden, minimum costs during transport and landing.

But, unfortunately, there are more disadvantages of such planting material. In the garden, seedlings require additional costs for the formation of the crown, they come into fruition late. The first yield occurs in the 3–5th year, the payback of the garden in the 7–8th year. The resulting sharp angles of branching help to reduce the formation of the generative sphere.

Biennial seedlings

The greatest consumer demand is for standard two-year-old apple tree seedlings. They are grown from unbranched annuals. In the third field of the nursery, one-year-olds are cut (crowned) at a height of 90–100 cm from the soil level. Young shoots below a height of 50 cm and 2–3 upper competitor shoots of the central conductor are removed (broken out). Annually in spring and autumn, root fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is carried out.

Such seedlings grow well in the garden, they are sold at a relatively low price.

But this technology also has its drawbacks:

a long, three-year cycle of growing seedlings in the nursery, using additional agricultural practices (crown-forming pruning);
two-year-old seedlings have sharp branching angles;
there are few generative buds or they are absent;
the first harvests are obtained in the 2–4th year, the payback of the garden occurs only in the 6–7th year.

Knip baum

More recently, the modern latest technology growing seedlings of the knip baum (knip bom) type, which has already been able to confidently take a high position in the planting material market. At the first stage of obtaining such seedlings, a standard unbranched annual is grown.

In the third field of the nursery, a one-year-old is cut off at a height of about 40–50 cm, and a branched seedling is grown from the upper bud. When the central conductor reaches a length of 15–20 cm, it is treated with a growth regulator and pinched. It turns out a two-year-old with a one-year crown. Root and foliar top dressing is carried out several times.

Knip baum seedlings have a developed crown and formed generative buds that can produce single crops (up to 2–3 kg per tree) already in the year of planting, and up to 5–6 kg in the second year.

After the 4–5th year of fruiting, orchards planted with such seedlings fully pay for themselves and become profitable, providing an orchard yield of up to 200–350 c/ha. Maximum productivity occurs in the 5-6th year.

The price of seedlings grown using this technology differs markedly from those described earlier. This is due to more labor-intensive agricultural practices and a long, three-year cultivation cycle. Transportation and planting of baums also require a slightly higher cost. In the first years after planting in the garden, seedlings experience stress, growth processes are weakened.

Modified Knip Baum

In Russia, two new technologies for growing seedlings have been developed and proposed, which, in terms of their main biometric characteristics, are somewhat superior to Knip Baum seedlings. This is a modified kneep baum and a modified two year old.

A modified knip baum is formed in the nursery by crowning a standard one-year-old at a height of 70 cm from the soil level. A branched central conductor is grown from the upper bud, and the lateral branches formed below are partially removed, leaving 3–5 shoots.

Lateral shoots are deflected to a horizontal position with clothespins or twine. When the central conductor reaches a length of 15–20 cm, it is treated with a growth regulator or pinched. Carry out root and foliar top dressing.

A modified two-year-old is obtained from a branched one-year-old. In the third field of the nursery, the tree is crowned at a height of about 100 cm from the soil level. All branches longer than 20 cm are cut in half. Growing lateral shoots are deflected to a horizontal position with clothespins or twine. The central conductor, which has reached a length of 15–20 cm, is also treated with a growth regulator.

Root and foliar top dressing is carried out several times. In terms of early maturity, productivity and payback of the garden, this technology for obtaining seedlings is similar to the Knip Baum technology, and even surpasses it.

Summing up

Thus, despite all the variety of technologies for growing apple seedlings that exist today, before planting an orchard, it is necessary, first of all, to make a choice between planting inexpensive, but with more late deadline entry into fruiting seedlings, or plant more costly, but early-growing and quickly paid off.

Apple tree in the photo

The apple tree is the most common fruit tree in Russian gardens, which is partly why it is considered a kind of "model" for pruning. The principles, techniques and rules for pruning apple trees, pears and other pome fruits, as well as stone fruits, are largely similar.

Proper planting of a seedling and caring for it is the first half of success. The second is the competent formation of the crown of a young apple tree. In most cases, sanitary pruning is carried out, its purpose is to remove damaged shoots and roots. If the root system is poorly developed, then the shoots must be shortened in order to equalize the aboveground and underground parts and increase the chances of the tree to live in a new place. If planting or transplanting a tree is carried out in the fall, then pruning (with the exception of sanitary) must be postponed until the next spring so as not to reduce the winter hardiness of the plant. If the seedling has not completed leaf fall, then he will have to help - remove the leaves manually or with a pruner.

Before you properly prune young apple trees, keep in mind that its degree depends on the age, variety and condition of the seedling. Usually these are annual, biennial, three-year-old trees. An annual seedling should have a mature stem and a normally formed apical bud. It should not have leaves.

Large-sized birds take root very poorly, and if they survive at all, they are delayed in development for a long time. The reasons for this are most often objective. Transportation, a sharp change in conditions are the strongest stressful situations for big plant. The problem is exacerbated by the location of nurseries, as they tend to be located where the trees grow faster, that is, in areas with a milder climate. As a result, your large apple tree may be at risk of winter damage.

With proper pruning, a young apple tree often forms a sparse-tiered or tiered crown - they are easy to maintain and fit biological features trees. Most often, a sparse-tiered and tiered crown is chosen for trees on vigorous and medium-sized rootstocks. The difference is that in a tiered crown, all branches extending from the trunk are skeletal and enter the tiers, while the sparse-tiered crown is less “strict”, and the tiers of branches alternate with semi-skeletal branches extending from the trunk.

Before you properly form the crown of a young apple tree, familiarize yourself with the sequence of actions proposed below, or, as fruit growers say, with the procedure for removing the crown.

With the normal development of the tree, every year, starting from the second year of the tree's life, a new tier of 3-5 branches is laid. If the length of the leader or the continuation shoot is insufficient, the laying of the next tier is postponed a year later.

See a photo of how to properly prune an apple tree at a young age:

Creating several tiers when pruning and shaping apple trees is a somewhat cyclical process. To stimulate branching and good development of future skeletal branches, the top of the continuation shoot is shortened and this operation is repeated when laying each next tier. The distance between the tiers depends on the type of rootstock and the characteristics of the variety (for trees on a dwarf rootstock it is less than for vigorous ones) and is 50-70 cm, the upper tiers can be placed a little closer to each other (lower limit - 40 cm). When pruning and forming an apple tree, the optimal distance between branches included in one tier is 20-30 cm. Branches in adjacent tiers should not be located one above the other. The central conductor or continuation shoot should be 15-20 cm higher than the branches of the last tier (in practice, this means that its top should be that much higher), and if necessary, the branches and (or) the central conductor are shortened.

The decision on how to form a crown at an apple tree and how many tiers to make is made by the gardener himself, guided by the convenience of harvesting and carrying out agrotechnical measures.

The video of pruning a young apple tree shows how to form a seedling:

Usually, when pruning to form the crown of an apple tree, 3-4 tiers are laid, in this case the height of the tree on a vigorous rootstock is about 4 m, on a dwarf rootstock - 2-2.5 m. When the tree reaches the desired height, growth is limited - the central conductor is cut out on translation.

An annual seedling looks like a thin twig with roots, less often with the first thin branches, it depends on the variety and how the seedling was cared for in the nursery. "Bold" and powerfully branching annual seedling either overfed with fertilizer or grown in the southern regions.

Its winter hardiness middle lane problematic enough. If necessary, perform sanitary pruning - both the above-ground part and the root system. If the seedling is purchased with an open root system, it is especially important to equalize the underground and aboveground parts.

Pruning of annual apple tree seedlings after planting is carried out at a height of 80-100 cm in order to stimulate the growth of lateral branches - these are the future skeletal branches of the first tier.

All buds and branches (if any) from ground level to the first tier of skeletal branches are removed - this is the bole zone. A stem that is too low will hinder tillage, harvesting, and other operations, while a stem that is too high can suffer from sunburn.

If the seedling already has branches, then when pruning an annual apple tree, we outline those that will create the first tier - there should be 3-5 of them, directed in different directions. If there are no branches yet, then 5-8 buds are added to form the first tier (this amount is taken with a margin). One more kidney is left - it should be located above the tier and look in the direction opposite to the bend in the budding zone, so that in the future the trunk is even. A continuation shoot will grow from this bud - it will replace the leader shoot, and in order for the trunk to be even, it is tied to a peg. It is possible to leave a spike from the removed leader shoot as a temporary support, and cut it off completely when the continuation shoot is fixed in a vertical position.

In the process of properly pruning an annual apple tree, all branches that form an acute angle with the trunk are removed, the rest are shortened by 3-5 buds. This is done for their better development and branching.

These photos show how to prune an apple tree at one year of age:

Pruning and shaping the crown of a seedling of a two-year-old apple tree (with video)

A two-year-old seedling begins to branch without fail. When pruning and forming the crown of a two-year-old apple tree, a strong shoot is grown from the uppermost bud, which will become a continuation of the leader shoot - it is better to tie it up so that the emerging stem is even. If there are competing shoots at the top of the seedling, they are either removed while they are still small, or carefully bent and fixed. Branches extending from the trunk at an angle of less than 45 degrees are an unsuitable candidate for the role of skeletal ones: they can be cut out, or you can try to bend them with the help of spacers and stretch marks. While the branches are thin and flexible, optimize the angle of their departure from the trunk. The older the tree, the more difficult it is to do this, and in an adult tree it is simply impossible.

Any fixation of the branches in the desired position must be mobile so that the crown is not broken by the wind - but also strong enough to achieve the desired result. For the winter, spacers and stretch marks are removed, and in the spring, if necessary, they are returned to their place.

When pruning seedlings of a two-year-old apple tree, branches growing between tiers can be shortened and bent at an obtuse angle, then they will give the first fruits faster. Subsequently, they are removed if a longline crown is selected.

The side branches of a young apple tree are left, even if they are to be removed in the future. This approach contributes to the formation of a downward expanding and, as a result, stable trunk. Extra branches when pruning a two-year-old apple tree are removed gradually. First, they are shortened, and after a year or two, when the tree has enough other branches and leaves, they are completely cut out.

Shoots that will have to turn into skeletal branches are shortened to stimulate branching. The degree depends on the condition of the branches and their planned length - the bottom branches should end up being the longest, so they are often cut more heavily than the top ones. And although at first the crown will be, as it were, “inverted”, further growth of the shoots will put everything in its place, since strong shoots will grow on a heavily pruned branch. Small branches extending from the skeletal branches are preserved - these are overgrown, on which the crop will form in the future.

The video "Pruning a two-year-old apple tree" shows how this work is done:

How to prune three-year-old apple trees in spring

A three-year-old tree branches "in all directions", and new skeletal branches are also laid in it. The branches of the first tier, planted last year, are covered with branches of the 2nd order. If necessary, remove or bend the branches. Lay the second tier at a distance of 50-70 cm from the first - so that the branches of the second tier are in between the branches of the first tier.

When pruning three-year-old apple trees, we follow the rule of subordination of branches - the higher the branch is located, the shorter it should be - this is the only way the entire crown will be evenly illuminated. Branches of subsequent orders should be shorter and located lower (the conductor is 15-20 cm higher than the branches of the 1st order, the overgrown branches are shorter than the branches of the 1st and 2nd order). The crown of the tree should fit into an isosceles triangle with its base facing the ground; ideally, each skeletal branch also fits into an isosceles triangle with its base facing the trunk. The branches of one tier are usually equalized, that is, pruning of the branches of a three-year-old apple tree in spring is done at the same height. If the height of the branches is not the same, then the one whose growth point is higher grows more actively. This technique can be used to stimulate or limit the growth of individual branches in a tier.

And what is the right way to prune apple trees at the age of three, if the branching of the trees is active and good growth is observed? In this case, you can cut the branches scheduled for removal in the previous season.

Technique for pruning a four- and five-year-old apple tree

The pruning technique for a four-year-old apple tree is carried out in a similar way: the third tier is laid, excess branches are removed.

And how to do spring pruning of apple trees that have reached the age of five? A five-year-old tree is considered to be formed, at this age modern varieties usually bear fruit, from this moment the tree can be called an adult. It has 3-4 beautiful and durable tiers. Often the tree has already reached the desired height. If necessary, its further upward growth can be limited. To do this, with the correct pruning of apple trees, the central conductor is removed by pruning for translation - on a well-located branch. If the height of the tree is insufficient, we lay one tier per year until the result satisfies us, and only then we cut out the central conductor.

Remember that the indicated sequence of actions when pruning young apple trees for beginner gardeners is only a guide, and not a hard set of rules. If for some reason the tree develops poorly, then it is not scary to postpone the laying of tiers or pruning a year or two later, and during this time to eliminate shortcomings in agricultural technology.

Pruning and shaping the crown of young apple trees: videos and tips for beginners

Cupped (or vase-shaped) crown shape is quite popular. Its removal is very simple - one tier of branches is laid at the desired height (usually the trunk is low, not more than 50 cm, and in a tier there are 3-4 branches arranged symmetrically) and the central conductor is removed. At the apple tree, it is cut out as early as possible (for stone fruits, after 2-4 years). To make the bowl beautiful, you will need a lot of space and, perhaps, a garter of branches. Usually such a crown is chosen for trees on dwarf rootstocks. Its advantage is good sun exposure. Further steps to form the crown of an apple tree are quite simple - timely removal of tops that will often appear on skeletal branches, as well as extra branches, especially those directed inside the crown, sanitary pruning. It should be remembered about the rule of subordination when laying the branches of skeletal branches - the closer to the trunk, the longer the branches should be.

In English gardens, you can often find apple trees that have only one tier of skeletal branches, and the central conductor has been removed. Because usually in orchard the trees are planted tightly, the skeletal branches will sooner or later begin to grow upwards. It turns out not a bowl, but rather, a "glass" on a high leg, and not always symmetrical, but not without charm.

To improve the illumination of the adult crown, some of the branches are sometimes removed so that the crown, rounded in plan, becomes lobed.

The spindle-shaped crown, or spindlebush, is easy to breed and quite spectacular. Semi-skeletal branches are laid on the trunk, arranging them in a spiral, and the height of the tree is usually limited to 3 m. With the help of stretch marks, the branches are given a position close to horizontal (in different modifications, the angle of departure of the branches may be smaller, and the length is different). This type of crown is only suitable for trees on low-growing rootstocks.

A slender spindle, or grusbek, is also a compact crown. It is displayed on a low trunk, the central conductor is usually cut out at a height of 2.5 m, and the entire crown is formed by short horizontal overgrowing branches. Outwardly, this form resembles a columnar apple tree and is suitable for trees on dwarf rootstocks.

In harsh conditions, for example, in Siberia, it is necessary to increase the winter hardiness of fruit trees by any means.

And how to prune apple trees of dwarf varieties? In such trees, the crown is formed in a bushy form (6-8 skeletal branches, the lower ones are located in one tier, the rest are singly, all branches of the second order are shortened).

Since damage to the stem is most dangerous in severe winters, the most common is a low-stem bushy crown with a stem height of no more than 30 cm. In this case, the snow cover becomes a natural shelter, a “warm blanket”.

The slate form is used in the most severe climatic conditions. It is characterized by the absence of a pronounced trunk and horizontally located skeletal branches, literally lying on the ground. Such a crown completely hibernates under a snow cover.

The video "Pruning apple trees for beginners" clearly demonstrates how to form a crown of trees:

Artificial types of crown formation in apple trees

Mold gardening is the creation of artificial crown forms with high decorative qualities. They can be either flat (palmettes, cordons) or voluminous, often symmetrical. Artificial crown forms are associated with gardens in a regular style (for example, in England a rare brick wall is not decorated with fruit or decorative tree, formed in the form of a palmette or cordon, and in France, artificial forms often adorn the famous French ornamental gardens with beds bordered by boxwood borders).

In addition to decorating walls, artificial forms make it possible to achieve fruiting from more southern varieties (a brick wall accumulates heat and creates a favorable microclimate, concrete wall, on the contrary, is very cold and contributes to the freezing of plants). Artificial forms usually bear fruit faster than traditional ones, and although the total number of fruits is not always large, all fruits are of excellent quality, because they receive a lot of sun. This perfect solution for a garden or its fragment in a regular style - or just a highlight of your site. Several identical flat shapes (trees can be of different varieties) on a common frame - a variant of a compact green wall for zoning the garden space.

For shaped gardening, only trees on dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstocks are suitable, and always with an annular type of fruiting. They will need regular pruning, most often several times a season, and a reliable frame for life, because for all their beauty, such forms do not resist the elements well. Branches that protrude beyond the crown are shortened, cut or tied in the desired direction. To control the strength of growth and for better branching, annual growths are regularly pinched. The branch is usually removed in parts, since the number of leaves in artificial forms, especially at a young age, is small.

Artificial forms of the crown can also be voluminous, from an apple tree you can even create a covered alley - berso.

It can be said that such types of apple tree formation in horticulture are akin to the Japanese art of bonsai, but, unlike it, it seeks not to imitate nature, but, on the contrary, to subdue it, although the techniques are very similar, the main one being pinching. By the way, Japanese and Chinese masters create bonsai from fruit trees, this is considered a sign of high professionalism.

In a palmette, all branches are located in the same plane, and their direction can be from horizontal to oblique and articulated, the number of tiers also varies depending on the type. Palmettes are usually symmetrical crown variants with a well-defined central conductor. Each tier of branches needs a horizontal frame element, most often it is a thick wire or a strong rail.

A cordon is a straight trunk (it can also be inclined), as if running along a stretched rope (the name of the form comes from the French corde - rope), covered with a small number of short overgrowing branches. Cordons are compact, so a whole collection can be placed in a relatively small area. Outwardly, the cordons are somewhat reminiscent of columnar apple trees, but the former have a compact habitus due to regular pruning, the latter due to their biological characteristics.

It is not always possible to achieve the perfect symmetry of an artificial shape with the help of trimming. Vaccination comes to the rescue - if there is no kidney or shoot in the right place, then it can be artificially grown.

For stone fruit crops, a strict crown plane is undesirable, therefore, skeletal branches are oriented, as a rule, at an angle of 15-20 degrees to the row line.

Proper pruning of an adult apple tree in spring

Finally, your tree is already mature and has begun to bear fruit. At this stage, it is especially important to extend its "full life" and increase productivity. Ideally, the period of supporting or regulating pruning of adult apple trees lasts for decades.

This type of pruning keeps the crown in the right size, fights its thickening, regulates the light and air conditions, prevents the branches from being exposed, especially in the central part, and thereby increases the laying of fruit formations.

It is important to carry out maintenance pruning of adult apple trees regularly in the spring. They paused - and the growth of the tree is out of control, you have to cut a lot and hard, after which the struggle begins - you cut, and the tree stubbornly strives to return the lost volume, for example, forms a lot of tops. As a result, both you and the tree expend a lot of energy.

The normalization of flowers and ovaries also applies to maintenance pruning. Plants always lay flowers "in reserve", in some years only every tenth flower becomes a fruit. Therefore, the ovary trees are shed - first of all, unfertilized and damaged ones. If the dimensions of the tree allow and if you have enough patience, you can normalize the ovaries - removing some of them. As a result, there will be fewer fruits, but they will be larger and of better quality, and the tree will save its strength. The normalization of flowers is carried out during full blooming (although many gardeners are very sorry to destroy the apple blossom with their own hands), the normalization of the ovaries is carried out as early as possible, immediately after flowering. You can completely remove the flowers and ovaries on part of the inflorescences, you can leave the best and most developed in each inflorescence. In the apple tree, this is the central flower in the inflorescence.

When the crop is large, the branches may not withstand the load and break, especially old varieties with periodic fruiting suffer.

The best treatment is prevention, so the supports are placed in advance, while the fruits are still small. After harvesting, the supports are removed.

Watch a video on how to prune an apple tree as an adult:

Tips for proper anti-aging pruning of an old apple tree (with photo and video)

If young tree formed correctly, then for many years he will only need sanitary and supporting pruning - removing extra branches and limiting the size of the crown. However, sooner or later there comes a point when the tree begins to age.

The signal for rejuvenating pruning of old apple trees is the reduction in the length of annual growths. For trees on vigorous rootstocks, the critical value is 15 cm. If the tree is mature and regularly bears fruit, it expends a huge amount of energy on fruiting, and growth is “financed according to the residual principle,” so the length of annual increments decreases. In an advanced case, young fruit formations no longer arise, and the old ones have exhausted their resources - you will be left without fruits, and an oppressed and weakened tree may die. The task of the gardener is to help the tree maintain an optimal balance between growth and fruiting.

Many trees try to “regain their lost youth” on their own with the help of spinning tops. If the tops are well located, you can form new branches from them, and gradually remove the old ones.

However, in most cases, the tree needs serious help. As usual, first they carry out sanitary pruning of old apple trees, then rejuvenating. To do this, the branches are shortened to the site where the length of the growth was full, and the bare and unproductive ones are also cut out. With a high probability, the tree will respond to such an intervention with the rapid growth of tops, especially near the cuts - sleeping buds will wake up. This is what they are trying to achieve - now it is possible to form new, young and strong branches from the strongest and most well-located tops. The rest of the tops, with the correct pruning of old apple trees, are removed, and the sooner the better. In case of doubt, you can pinch the growing top and decide its fate during spring pruning next year.

As you can see in the photo of pruning old apple trees, many large branches are removed during this work:

Therefore, it makes sense to stretch such rejuvenation for 2-3 seasons. You should not save on watering and top dressing, in addition, young growths should be carefully and regularly examined - a tasty morsel for various sucking and leaf-eating pests.

Sick trees with severe damage to the trunk and skeletal branches do not rejuvenate.

Another tip for pruning an old apple tree is to combine a rejuvenating crown shaping with a rejuvenating root pruning. To do this, along the periphery of the crown, they dig a trench 30-40 cm deep and 40-50 cm wide and fill it with fertile soil and organic fertilizers and watered regularly. As a result, many young, actively working roots are formed in this zone.

The task of restorative pruning is to restore the ability to bear fruit. For this, new fruit-bearing branches are brought up for several years, mainly by pruning for translation into horizontal branches, and then the old ones are removed.

Watch the video "Pruning old apple trees" to better understand how to care for such trees:

How to prune an old apple tree

What to do if you, along with the site, got an old tree that has not seen a pruner or a hacksaw for a long time or at all? How to prune an old apple tree to prolong its life?

You can leave everything as it is. In nature, trees without any pruning live to an advanced age. But still, pruning is a way to improve the health and longevity of a tree, as well as a way to give it a presentable appearance. In neglected gardens, many fruit trees similar to a "nest" of closely spaced branches on a high stem. Their crown is raised high so that light penetrates into the near-stem circles, and something else could be grown under the apple tree. Especially often such a picture can be seen in small areas.

Before pruning an old apple tree, you need to give an abandoned tree a decent look, and for this you must first remove all the "dangerous" branches. After that, proceed to sanitary pruning. Slowly, gradually cut off all the diseased and dead. Focus on the middle of the crown - there are usually a lot of dry branches hiding there. As a rule, in neglected old trees, sanitary pruning is large-scale, and upon its completion, amazing changes occur in the crown.

In the next step, to prune the old apple tree, you need to remove the extra branches. There is no need to rush here. It is better to pause, take your mind off the tree and do other things. Perhaps even postponing everything until the next season, this has its advantages. Sometimes it is important not to overdo it - perhaps you should make an exception to the rule for some specific branches - in order to subsequently strengthen a weak branch, direct pruning to translate the further growth of the branch in the right direction, leave a spinning top to grow a fruit-bearing branch from it. It is quite possible that pruning will have to be extended over two or three seasons (no more than a quarter of the branches are removed in one year). The decision will have to be made for each specific cut.

Therefore, it is better to clean off lichens from the trunk and skeletal branches. The easiest way to do this is after rain - they are easily scraped off with a thick mitten or a dull knife. In addition, when the old bark is removed before autumn whitewashing, lichens are automatically disposed of. In severe cases, spraying with a 10% solution of ferrous sulfate can be applied - this is a very high concentration that causes chemical burns. Therefore, such processing is carried out only when the tree is at rest, always on a calm day, not forgetting all the safety measures that are necessary when working with toxic substances.

A green or brick-colored coating, usually found on the north side of large branches or trunks, is unicellular algae. They are not dangerous and only indicate high humidity. Improving ventilation and thinning the canopy helps reduce algae. Again, removing the old bark before whitewashing solves this problem as well.

Different varieties of apple trees have their own pruning characteristics.

Varieties with weak branching and low awakening of the kidneys (Cinnamon striped, etc.). The branches are "bald", with weak branching, fruits are formed only in their upper part.

Pay attention to the photo - pruning of apple trees of such varieties is carried out medium or strong in order to enhance branching and reduce the number of dangerous forks with sharp corners:

Such varieties require more radical anti-aging pruning.

Antonovka ordinary in the photo
Borovinka in the photo

Varieties with weak to moderate branching and good bud awakening(Antonovka vulgaris, Borovinka and etc.). The periodicity of fruiting on kolchatka is characteristic. Stimulate the formation of overgrowing branches on skeletal and semi-skeletal branches.

Pepin saffron in the photo
Melba in the photo

Varieties bearing fruit on fruit twigs (Pepin saffron, Melba and etc.). Growths are shortened to increase branching and form more overgrown branches.

Renet Simirenko in the photo
Autumn striped in the photo

Varieties with high shoot-forming ability (Renet Simirenko, Autumn striped and etc.). Regular thinning is required.

Apple trees on dwarf rootstocks in most cases require minimal formative pruning, especially if the varieties themselves have moderate branching. In most cases, apple trees on dwarf rootstocks respond well to anti-aging pruning.

This video shows pruning apple trees of different varieties:

Correct pruning of a columnar apple tree (with video)

Recently fashionable columnar apple trees require correct pruning, not the same as used for other species. Often, columnar apple trees do not need pruning at all, because usually it undersized varieties. A feature of columnar apple trees is very short growth and the presence of annulus on all branches, including skeletal branches (if any), and even on the trunk!

In order to direct all the forces of the tree to fruiting, in the middle of summer, long growths of the current year are pinched. If this is not done, the apple trees lose their strict columnar appearance, become overgrown with long skeletal branches, and it turns out something similar to a tree on a dwarf rootstock, only with a rarer crown. When the apical bud is damaged or removed, several strong shoots grow: if there is enough space, you can leave those that are well located. This option has a right to exist. But if the “column” was acquired for a different purpose, and there is not enough space, then you will have to choose one shoot and greatly shorten the rest.

Often, gardeners, acquiring a columnar apple tree, dream of a “stick” strewn with large bulk apples. Alas, small size fruits - a varietal feature, pruning and top dressing will not make the fruits larger. On the other hand, breeders have taken care of compensation - apples are easy to pick, they have a rich aroma and dessert taste.

This video shows the pruning of columnar apple trees on personal plot:

IN last years apple tree became popular decorative culture, on sale you can find many varieties, usually small-fruited, with a different general appearance of the tree (or) color of flowers and leaves. Pruning decorative apple trees will need to be different, its nature depends on the shape of the crown. However, in any grafted forms, shoots that appear below the grafting site are removed decisively and immediately.

Nedzvetsky's apple tree in the photo
Nedzwiecki's apple tree with bright raspberry flowers in the photo

Nedzwiecki's apple tree attracts not only with leaves with a purple tint of varying severity, but also with bright crimson flowers. The fruits of this species are quite large, and from the apple trees traditionally grown in gardens, they differ mainly in an unusual, dark, color. The formation of an apple tree of this species is exactly the same as the home apple tree we are used to. Similarly, they do with large-sized decorative varieties that have a classic crown shape.

The spherical shape of the Nedzwiecki apple tree in the photo

Spherical forms grafted on a tall trunk require minimal pruning. Remove all rootstock shoots, sanitary pruning if necessary and maintain the correct crown shape.

The now popular weeping apple trees will require a different approach. These are also grafted apple trees on a high trunk. In order for the "umbrella" to be thick and beautiful, regular pruning is required with beautiful name"candelabra". Look closely - weeping branches form an upward bend at the very top. There we cut off on the kidney directed upwards. Below this kidney should remain at least two or three. Thus, strong weeping shoots will grow from the remaining buds, and the "umbrella" will be strong and durable. In order not to deprive yourself of joy, you should not “stupefy” a tree every year. If you want to admire decorative flowers and the fruits of your apple trees, you will have to cut the crown in parts.

Theoretically, you can make a sheared apple tree hedge, but why? After all, in this case, you have to forget about flowers and fruits.

If the crown is not formed in a timely manner, the apple trees begin to be overloaded with the number of fruits, their quality deteriorates, the frequency of fruiting is formed, and the winter hardiness of the trees decreases. The crown of the apple tree must have a shape that will provide good harvests with high quality fruits. In other words, if fruit trees are not pruned, then their crown will grow much faster, fruiting will begin earlier, and crops will grow faster. But after a few years, the condition of the trees will begin to deteriorate significantly.

Trimming technique

Pruning over the kidney is carried out with a sharp pruner, without cutting too much above the kidney (without damaging it), but without leaving stumps;

The buds that form the crown are selected, that is, the bud at the end of the shoot after cutting it should be directed in the desired direction. So, the kidney at the end of the lateral shoot should not be directed up and inward of the crown;

Thinning branches up to 2-3 cm thick is carried out with a pruner, cutting them into a ring (this is a thickened place at the base of the branch);

Branches thicker than 2-3 cm are removed with a garden saw. In this case, you should first make a drink under it, otherwise it may break off under its own weight and damage the central trunk or the supporting skeletal branch.

When thinning, apple tree branches are removed that go inside the crown, unsuccessfully located and intersecting (thickening), diseased and broken apple tree branches going inside the crown, unsuccessfully located and intersecting (thickening), diseased and broken, wen grown on boles and in the forks of branches.

Preferably, branches directed upwards from the bearing skeletal branches are removed (to give them a more horizontal orientation).

Pruning apple trees after planting

Apple trees planted both in autumn and in spring are pruned in spring (before the buds swell) after planting and in the same way.

Pruning annual apple tree seedlings

Annual apple tree seedlings are usually still without lateral branches and are pruned at a height of 80-100 cm from the soil level.

If annual seedlings with branches, then remove all shoots at a height of 40-70 cm above the ground. From those growing above, those shoots that form an acute angle with the trunk are removed (such branches often break off under the weight of the fruit). If these shoots must be left, then they should be pulled sideways (to a horizontal position) with spacers. An apple tree with branches located almost horizontally begins to bear fruit earlier.

Shoots that form a wide angle of discharge are cut off, leaving 3-5 buds on them. At the same time, those buds are chosen for trimming so that after trimming the final bud is directed down and away from the conductor.

It is also necessary to shorten the guide (main trunk) so that it is 15-20 cm higher from the ends of the side shoots.

Pruning two-year-old apple tree seedlings

Two-year-old seedlings with a trunk and several side shoots are cut in the same way as annuals with side shoots.

Leave 3-6 of the strongest shoots with wide angles of shoots, evenly spaced in the crown, the rest are removed. The left shoots are shortened: the shoots below are made up to 30 cm long, the ones above are somewhat shorter, so that the lower tier is not higher than the next one. The conductor is cut so that it is about 15-20 cm higher than the side shoots. If a competing shoot grows in parallel with the conductor, it is cut out or pulled to the horizontal (made lateral).

Formation of the crown of young apple trees

In the first years of apple tree growth, the purpose of its pruning is to form a uniformly leafy, well-lit and easy-to-care apple tree crown.

During this period, it is necessary to cut the branches of the apple tree into the ring, going inside the crown, unsuccessfully located and crossing (thickening), diseased and broken.

During the first 3-5 years, pruning should be minimal, otherwise the entry of apple trees into fruiting will be delayed.

Pruning apple trees in the third year after planting

In the third year after planting, before the start of the growing season, competitors for the growth of the continuation of the skeletal branches and the central conductor are completely removed. The growth of the central conductor is also shortened. It should be 15-25 cm higher than the tops of the lateral skeletal branches.

All other shoots are shortened to a length of 15-25 cm. This first serves to thicken the trunk, and then they turn into fruit branches. In places of thickening, some of these growths (especially competing, directed upwards and inside the crown or with sharp corners of discharge) are cut into a ring. Fruit formations such as annelids, spears, spurs, fruit twigs are not touched.

Formation of apple trees in the fourth year after planting

In the fourth year, pruning is carried out, as in the third year. They continue to form the crown so that by the fall there are 5 skeletal branches. The increase in the continuation of the conductor is shortened by 1/4 - 1/3 (so that the remaining one-year part is 50-60 cm long).

Thinning, long (more than 70-80 cm) annual growths are removed, growing upward from the main branches and in the forks of the bases of the branches, and necessarily competitors of the conductors of skeletal branches (growing upwards).

In the figure, the cut branches are shown with a dashed line.

Formation of apple trees from the fifth year after planting

From the fifth year, the apple tree should have a properly formed crown, and the tree is ready to bear fruit. Now every year they only thin out the crown, remove last year's competing growths, diseased and damaged branches. The apple tree bears fruit on branches planted last year, so they are pruned carefully.

For the convenience of caring for an apple tree, dwarf varieties are chosen. Or, accordingly, an apple tree is formed by removing the central vertically growing conductor.

Video
How to properly prune an apple tree.

Rejuvenating pruning of old apple trees

During the period of fruiting and aging of the apple tree, annual growths weaken, their length becomes no more than 15 cm, and anti-aging pruning is required. It starts with strong thinning crowns: cut out the crowns going inward, thickening, crossing branches. It is better to remove 1-2 large thickening branches than a significant number of small branches. To reduce the crown and improve its illumination, a leader is cut out with branches at a height of 3-3.5 m. Branches growing upwards are cut out at the side branches.