Sharper than ever: we are studying the most effective tools for sharpening knives. We are not stupid! Knife sharpeners that free you from men's work Knife sharpener professional

It is quite difficult to sharpen a knife by hand correctly. It will take some time to develop the habit of maintaining a constant sharpening angle, which is not easy at all. A knife sharpening device can make the task easier. There are factory options. But for good copies you have to pay off a couple of hundred dollars, and this is clearly a lot. The good news is that these tools are easy to make with your own hands. Moreover, many homemade knife sharpeners are not worse in functionality than those from well-known manufacturers, but they cost many times cheaper.

Knife sharpening basics

Knives have different uses, and even in an ordinary kitchen there are several of them. There is for cutting bread and other soft foods, there is for cutting meat, chopping bones, and other hard objects. And these are only household ones. But there are still those who take on hunting and fishing. If you look closely, you will see that they all have a different sharpening angle (this is if they were not sharpened at home). It is the sharpening angle that is the most important characteristic, which is determined by the purpose of this blade.

At what angle

The sharpening angle is determined based on the main field of application of a particular blade:

it general recommendationsintroduced on the basis of many years of experience. There are, however, options: some blades have several zones with different sharpening. This wishes them more versatile, but the complexity of sharpening increases many times over.

From the above it follows that the device for sharpening knives should be able to set the required sharpening angle. And this is the main difficulty in its design and manufacture.

How to sharpen

Grinding stones of various grain sizes are used to sharpen knives. They are conventionally divided into rough, medium and small. Why conditionally? Because in different countries its designation of grain size is adopted. The most convenient classification is by the number of grains per unit area. It is expressed in numbers: 300, 600, 1000, etc. Some firms also duplicate in English terms. Here's an approximate division:

In addition to grain size, whetstones are distinguished by their origin: they are of natural origin (shale, corundum, etc.), there are ceramic and diamond. Which is better? It's difficult to say - a matter of taste, but natural ones grind off faster and are rarely fine-grained.

Natural ones are soaked in water before use or simply moistened with it. They absorb water and, during sharpening, an abrasive paste is formed on the surface from the water and separated abrasive particles, which increases the sharpening efficiency. For the same purposes, you can use a special little (honing oil) or a mixture of water and soap (whichever you prefer). In general, with each of the sharpening stones, you need to try all these options and choose the best one.

The shape of the sharpening stone for sharpening knives is a bar, and it is desirable that its length be much longer than the length of the blade - it is easier to sharpen. Convenient bars with double grain - on the one hand, larger, on the other - finer. For sharpening knives for ordinary use, it is enough to have two bars with medium grain (different) and two small ones (one can be very small).

Manual sharpening procedure

The device for sharpening knives only facilitates the process of guiding the edge, therefore knowledge of the techniques manual sharpening certainly. It is impossible to sharpen the knife correctly without them.

The order of sharpening knives is as follows:

On this we can assume that the sharpening of the knife is finished. Some are still finishing the edge on the old belt. A piece of belt can be fixed on a wooden block (glue, not nailed), rub with goyi paste. Then carry out several times alternately with one or the other side, but with the cutting edge turned back. So the last grooves left by the abrasive are polished and the belt is not "cut" at the same time.

How to make a homemade knife sharpener

All homemade knife sharpeners solve the main problem - they allow you to accurately maintain a given angle of inclination of the bar to the blade, which is very important for obtaining a good cutting edge. There are very simple devices, there are a little more complicated ones, but they allow you to work with greater comfort. Choose according to your taste.

One of the options - from the available means

Simple knife sharpener

Basically it is a sharpening stone holder. Everything is elementary: two triangles made of wood, which are connected with pins with "lambs". A bar is clamped between the corners at the required angle. You can set the angle using a protractor, a special program on a smartphone, or using the rules of trigonometry (right triangle).

Knife sharpener - abrasive holder

When sharpening on such a device, the knife must be kept strictly vertical at all times. This is much easier than holding it at a certain angle.

The same idea has another embodiment: on a reliable base, make movable holders, into which the bars are inserted and fixed in the desired position. The corporate prototype is pictured below.

This homemade knife sharpener is made of wooden blocks. It turns out that it is light, so that it does not move from its place, it must be fixed with something. To avoid holding it with your hand, you can use clamps.

Swivel holders allow you to set a predetermined angle, and then fix it with the help of "lambs"

Such a device for sharpening knives, of course, facilitates the work, but it is still quite difficult to maintain an angle: you have to control the verticality of the blade all the time. This habit develops over time, but it's difficult to get started.

The device on wheels

An interesting version of a manual knife sharpener with a fixed bar and a trolley on wheels, on which the knife is fixed. It is made on the basis of knife sharpeners, chisels and planers. With a knife, such a device also works well, but you need to adapt to sharpening a rounded edge.

In this embodiment, as in manual sharpening, the bar is stationary, and the blade of a knife, fixed on a movable trolley, moves. The angle is set by the height of the bar relative to the platform on which the blade is mounted. The peculiarity of this device is that the table must be flat. It can be a natural stone tabletop, you can put glass on a regular table.

In the above version, the angle changes slightly, which is usually enough for sharpening the same type of knives - kitchen ones, for example. If necessary, the design can be improved by adding holders (pictured below).

All this is implemented very simply, as it resembles an ordinary constructor: strips, holes in them, everything is assembled on bolts and screws.

To ensure the immobility of the bar, there is also a device.

The plus of this whole design is that it is easy to unfold the knife while maintaining perpendicularity in the rounded section, and also very easy to process from the other side: you need to turn the cart over. For this, four pairs of wheels are made.

Homemade manual knife sharpening machine

Slightly more complex and much more convenient homemade devices, which are made on the basis of well-known brand devices. They have an adjustable platform on which the knife is fixed. The platform is exposed at a given angle. The block is mounted on a movable bar attached to the rack.

Hand-made devices are somewhat similar to the design presented above, but there are some differences. There are many options. Here are some.

Option one: a fixed platform on which the blade is fixed

This fixture is made of remnants of laminate (can be used), two steel rods with a diameter of 8 mm and a movable fixture.

In this design, there is a fixed base, to which a platform with a knife holder is attached to ordinary hinges. The near edge of the platform can be raised at some angle that is convenient for work. But otherwise she is motionless.

On the vertically mounted steel bar, there is a movably mounted retainer, in which a loop is attached to the side. A rod is inserted into it, on which the bar is fixed. This loop is a simple, but not the best solution: there is no rigid fixation, which means that the corner will "walk".

Particular attention should be paid to the block retainer. An emphasis is placed on the rod at some distance from the edge (about 30-35 cm). This will be a fixed retainer. The second is made movable, it is fixed after installing the bar with a screw and a thread cut in the body of the holder. The second option is to cut a thread on the rod and tighten the installed bar with a nut.

Knife holder - one or two steel plates fixed on a movable platform. They are fixed movably - with screws and "thumbs". Having loosened the fasteners, insert the knife blade, clamp it. It is very difficult to move it. Then, having installed a pin with a fixed bar in the loop, adjust its height so that the required angle is set.

You can, as in the photo, make templates with the desired angles and achieve the coincidence of the planes. After the transverse bar is fixed, you can work - hold the bar in the desired direction.

This knife sharpening device works well, but you can only move the abrasive along the blade when sharpening a kitchen knife. Classic sharpening - movement perpendicular to the cutting edge. This can be achieved on the straight edge of the blade. If the blade is short, it will be almost perpendicular, but this will not be done on the rounded part on the fixed holder. And all such devices "suffer" from this drawback. Once again: they are a great option for sharpening kitchen knives (below is another good option from the same series).

Option two: with a movable platform and a magnetic holder

In this variant homemade device for sharpening knives, the problem of previous sharpening is solved. Here the frame remains motionless, which sets the angle of movement of the bar. The bar holder moves freely along a guide set at the desired angle. The knife is mounted on a movable table. You can, as in the presented version, make a magnetic holder, you can - the usual one from a metal plate and "lambs". Move the table so that the movement of the abrasive is perpendicular. Actually, everything is in the video.

One clarification: in this case, it is very important that the surface on which the table with the fixed knife moves is horizontal and even. You can put glass or use a polymer countertop (marble will work too).

A do-it-yourself knife sharpener is very useful in household.

With the help of simple enough, you can sharpen cutting tools accurately and safely, which is simply necessary in the kitchen, fishermen and hunters, in the workshop.

Of course, a wide range of sharpeners are offered in stores, but homemade devices will save you unnecessary costs.

A dull knife is flour for the hostess when she cuts bread, prepares food, but cuts meat. Cutting is not only difficult for them, but also dangerous, because exactly blunt instruments are more likely to cause injuries... There is no point in proving the need for a sharp blade for a fisherman, hunter, shoemaker, etc. It is absolutely clear to everyone that the knife requires periodic sharpening. Another thing is how to provide it.

Many people use for these purposes means such as abrasive bars, emery wheels and sandpaper, files... Most often, abrasive or grinding stones are purchased for these purposes, and the procedure itself is carried out "by eye". After such sharpening, the knife becomes sharp, but it also dulls quickly enough.

Why is this happening? The knife blade is made of different steels, has different thickness and sharpening parameters. The process of high-quality sharpening must completely restore the shape of the blade, and only in this case will its sharpness correspond to the planned standards.

Providing uniform sharpening without fixing the position and guiding elements is very difficult even for professionals. The task is much easier when using special devices, which allow to stabilize the processing mode (loads, directions, speed).

For mechanization of rather laborious work, it is better to use the appropriate sharpening machines... Both devices and machines can be made by hand.

Basic principles of sharpening

When carrying out the correct sharpening of the knife, the main condition must be met - forming a sharp edge of the blade while maintaining its shape, which is ensured by removing the metal at a certain angle.

Turning is carried out with abrasive material, which has a different grain size. Its choice is determined by the strength characteristics of the steel. Correct sharpening implies a certain order of work.

Sharpening angle

The effectiveness and quality of the measure under consideration is limited by the fundamental parameter - the sharpening angle. Depending on the purpose, the knives have the following meanings:

• the smallest angle has a straight razor - (7-11) °;
• fillet knives - (11-14) °;
• kitchen knives for most products, incl. bread, vegetables, meat, etc. - (16-21) °;
• hunting tools and knives for general technical purposes - (21-26) °;
• universal hunting knives - (21-40) °;
• a special tool that is used for cutting and chopping (for example, a machete) - (29-50) °.

The sharpening angle largely determines the thickness of the blade. At the smallest angles, it should resemble a razor, and at large angles, it becomes possible to make extra strong, massive knives.

Important. Holding the abrasive element and the knife itself in your hands, it is very difficult to provide a given angle along the entire length of the blade, which leads to uneven hand sharpening.

The main task of the adaptation is rigid fixation one of the elements and a clear direction of movement of the second element.

Types and choice of abrasive

To sharpen knives you need abrasive stone, which will provide the necessary metal cutting. Abrasive ability is provided by a certain amount of surface grain size, i.e. the number of abrasive grains per unit area. According to this parameter, the following stones stand out:

• very coarse abrasives (international classification - extra coarse) - have a grain size of less than 260;
• coarse (coarse) abrasives - 310-360;
• medium (medium) abrasives - 390-510;
• fine (fine) abrasives - 590-720. This is the main category of sharpening stones used for cutting knives;
• very fine (ultra, extra fine) or grinding abrasives. They are used for turning razors and fine surface finishing of knife blades.

By the nature of origin, abrasive stones are divided into natural or natural (corundum, shale) and artificial (ceramics, artificial diamond). In addition, rubber elements are sometimes used for fine finishing. When using abrasives, their surface moistened with water or soap-water solution (water instrument) and oil (oil stones).

The shape of the abrasives can be round (discs) or rectangular (bars)... Bars are most often used, and they are selected so that the length significantly exceeded the length of the knife blade.

For full sharpening of the tool, it is recommended to have 2 pieces of medium and fine grain. It is better to complete the kit with a very small stone. The best option it is considered the use of double-sided bars, in which one side has an average, and the opposite - a fine grain.

Manual sharpening procedure

Any devices are designed to facilitate work and improve its quality, and the general procedure for manual sharpening remains the same:

1. The process begins with a coarse or medium-grained bar, which is laid on a plane. It is desirable to ensure its fixation.
2. The knife blade is brought to the abrasive surface at an angle equal to half the sharpening angle. The main task is to ensure the consistency of the angle throughout the event.
3. With a smooth movement with light pressure, the blade moves from the beginning to the end of the bar in the direction "away from you". The edge of the bar must always be perpendicular to the direction of movement of the blade. Do not allow the blade to break off at the end of the stone.
4. After reaching the edge of the bar, the movement is carried out in the opposite direction, while the sharp edge must constantly be on the surface of the abrasive. Direction change is provided by turning the handle.
5. The process is repeated until a burr appears along the entire length on the back of the blade edge. It should move to the opposite side when changing direction.
6. Next, a bar of medium grain size is taken, but with smaller grains. Sharpening continues, but the movements are carried out at first only "from oneself" until the appearance of a shine of metal on one side, and then the second side is also processed.
7. A block of fine grain is taken and the blade is processed until a mirror surface appears.
8. If a small burr remains, the sharpening is completed by using a very fine sanding stone. Some experienced people prefer to use instead of such a bar leather belt... It perfectly polishes the knife blade.

Homemade devices

DIYers make sharpeners of various designs, but they all include 2 main elements - abrasive block and knife attachment mechanism... A ready-made abrasive block is best suited for the fixture, but you can also make it yourself.

To do this, sandpaper of different grain sizes is glued to glass with a thickness of at least 4 mm. The connection can be secured with double-sided tape.

Fixed device

One of the most simple fixtures done from 2 wooden blocks of a triangular shape... They are fastened together with thumbscrews. An abrasive block is clamped between the wooden elements at the desired angle. This angle is set strictly along the protractor.

When turning a knife on such a device, the blade must be constantly held strictly vertical... Naturally, providing this direction is much easier than constantly guiding the knife at an angle.

Movable structure

To improve the quality of sharpening, it is necessary to fix not only the abrasive, but also the knife. Such a device can also be made by hand. It is collected on a flat, horizontal, massive surface. The device consists of 2 parts - rigidly fixed abrasive bar at the desired angle (similar to a fixed structure) and trolleys on wheels (rollers) with a horizontally fixed knife.

The cart moves manually along the guide rail. Hand provided and light pressure on the blade to the abrasive surface. This ensures the correct sharpening angle and eliminates the need for manual guidance.

Direction change can be done different ways... The easiest is to make a trolley with wheels at the top and bottom. At the end of the bar, the trolley simply turns over.

Point machine

Sharpening machines have a more complex design, which allows you to change the sharpening angle. There are several options for a constructive solution:

1. A knife is fixed on the platform with the possibility of adjustment. It is set at the required angle and fixed permanently. The abrasive bar is mounted on a movable bar mounted on a vertical support. He moves strictly horizontally. Sharpening is provided by moving the abrasive relative to the knife blade.
2. It is fixed on a fixed frame, but the bar can be displaced along the guide to set the desired sharpening angle. The knife is installed in a movable table, and is fixed with a magnetic holder, which makes it possible to turn it over.

DIY example

An example is the technology self-made grinding device - analogue lansky sharpeners... It has a standard design.

The knife is fixed on the horizontal base, and its fastening provides magnet... The emery element is located on a rod, along which it can move perpendicular to the knife. The guide rod is installed in the holes of the upright post.

These holes are drilled at an angle to the surface of the post and thus define a certain angle to the bar. Several holes are drilled vertically in the rack, and by rearranging the guide, you can still change the sharpening angle.

Manufacturing devices are carried out in the following order:

1. On the base plate (, board, sheet metal) with the edge slats are installedlimiting the displacement of the knife in the transverse direction. One of them is fastened in the slots on screws with a "wing" for fixing knives with different blade widths. In the center of the area where the knife is located, the magnet.
2. The emery bar is fixed on two pieces of the corner, which are held together with pins. Holes are drilled on both sides of this part for installation on the rod.
3. Steel rod with a diameter of 10-15 mm is passed through the indicated holes, and at the end is installed limiter to avoid the fall of the bar. The other end is sliced thread.
4. On an aluminum U-shaped profile with a width of 30-50 mm, 5-6 holes are drilled with a diameter 1-2 mm larger than the diameter of the rod. The holes are drilled at an angle corresponding to the sharpening angles, taking into account the height on the rack.
5. The rod is installed in the desired hole and fixed bolts.

Such a device works in the following way:

• the knife is fixed on the base and attracted by a magnet;
• a bar of the desired grain size is installed on the grinding element;
• the rod is fixed in the desired hole on the rack;
• by hand, the bar moves along the rod, processing the blade, and the movement is carried out "from oneself" and "toward oneself";
• with the other hand, the knife is gradually moved in the longitudinal direction.

Watch the detailed drawings, description and illustrations of the knife sharpener with and without a magnetic holder in the video below:

Scissor sharpener

With the help of accessories for knives, you can also sharpen scissors, but such an event has its own specifics... The sharpening angle is within (60-74) °. Tailoring scissors usually have an angle (72-74) °. The cutting part at the point of contact of both parts is flat, and the bevel is performed on one side. Main sharpening carried out from the outside, beveled side... The inner surface is only sanded with a fine stone.

The process is carried out in this order:

1. Disassembly of scissors... To do this, unscrew the screw that holds the halves together and carefully disconnect them. A minus screwdriver is used.
2. With the help of a coarse abrasive, sharpening at the right angle... Movements are made only in one direction - "towards yourself". Half of the scissors are held by the ring and turning begins at the tip of the blade.
3. Using small block, carried out fine-tuning.

Some scissors cannot be disassembled. They can also be sharpened, for which they open up as much as possible. The halves are sharpened alternately.

How to check the sharpness?

There are several popular ways to check the quality of knife sharpening:

1. Paper... Take a sheet of paper (for example, for a printer) and cut a strip at the edge. If the knife is soaked well, then the strip is easily cut and has smooth edges. A dull knife crushes the edge and cuts unevenly, with rags.
2. A tomato... A sharp knife cuts a tomato in half exactly, and a blunt knife crushes it.
3. Arm hair... A sharp blade works like a razor and cuts off hairs, and a blunt tool only crushes them.
4. The sharpness can be checked fingerkeeping caution. Burrs indicate poor workmanship. Absolutely smooth edges indicate quality work.

Knives have a tendency to dull, which interferes with their use. Sharpeners and machines will help solve the problem by providing correct sharpening blades, restoring a given angle. There are many designs of simple little scissors, and the owner himself must decide which one to choose.

The myth of supposedly self-sharpening knives quickly broke up…. About everyday life. This is not surprising, the laws of physics, there are laws of physics, against them, so to speak, even marketers are powerless. If knives are not sharpened in the house, if you remember the famous bard, there is nothing good. Today, the editors of the site will help solve the problem of dull blades and tell you how and how you can properly sharpen a knife at home. We will introduce our readers to different types tools for sharpening knives, we will tell you about their effectiveness, and also teach you how to make a simple sharpener at home.

Read in the article

Types of devices for sharpening knives

A sharpening stone for sharpening knives is probably the very first device of this type. A simple, and, most importantly, affordable tool has been successfully coping with its task for many millennia.

Until now, the classification of machine tools depends on this once uncontested grindstone. By the type of abrasive material, there can be:

• bars;
• sharpening stones.

By drive type:

• manual;
• electrically driven.

At the place of use:

• homemade;
• professional.

However, in the modern world, only a simple hunting knife can be sharpened with a grindstone. In other cases, the quality will be poor. In addition, only soft metals are sharpened with a stone, if the cutting part of the blade has a hardness higher than 55 HRC, you cannot sharpen it with improvised means.

Important! Each type of blade has its own edge angle. And during sharpening, it must be held along the entire length of the processed surface of the product.

Several types of modern whetstones are still in use today. An example of this natural stones - Japanese water stone (we showed it in the photo above) or American "Arkansas". Master grinders even conduct special master classes on sharpening knives using natural stone. Interestingly, before the processing process, it is soaked in water, sometimes with soapy water, and dried after work. The whole process resembles a sacrament for initiates. So it shouldn't come as a surprise that these rocks are too expensive, and most grinding machines use artificial abrasive surfaces.

Knife sharpening bars

These are artificially turned abrasive coated bars that are suitable for hand sharpening both carpentry and locksmith tools, as well as for kitchen knives.

Bars, depending on the material from which they are made, can be of different degrees of wear resistance and grain size. Consider the main types of materials that are used in the manufacture of whetstones:

1. Natural stones, such as novaculite or Japanese water stone. It is not very easy to work with such a tool. They require certain skills and skill.
2. Diamond (diamond-coated) - can be different shapes and graininess. Wear-resistant. Affordable price.
3. Ceramic... Belong to more modern look bars for sharpening. Combines the hardness of a diamond coating with the hardness of a natural stone.
4. Artificial: fused alumina or carbide. Fast grinding abrasive, of low quality and the same price.

Artificial abrasives are created by mixing diamond powders of different fractions, as well as electrocorundum and carbide.

Important! In this case, the material used for bonding the rock, as well as the percentage of all elements, is of great importance. The stronger and better the composition (this also applies to the particles themselves), the more resistant the grinding abrasive will be.

Moreover, there are two types of bundle of elements - galvanic and soft bundle. In the first case, the crystals are glued strictly to the surface of their base, made of a nickel alloy. In fact, the crystals are located in a very thin layer on the bar. A soft bond is a chaotic arrangement of bonding and abrasive elements. The second type is less wear-resistant.

Sharpening stones for knives

If we talk in more detail about sharpening stones, you need to talk about the main varieties used in such tools, this will help you understand the process in detail and understand how to sharpen the knife correctly. But before talking about them, one cannot fail to mention the stages of sharpening, which in this context will play a decisive role in the description different materials and machine tools.

Stage	Description	Illustration
Sharpening	Restoring a blunt edge without adjusting the sharpening angle.
Debugging	Edge grinding with fine grain abrasives.
Edit	Polishing bevels and cutting edges with a ceramic pencil, GOI paste or on a leather belt.
Resharpening (deep sharpening)	Full restoration of the desired sharpening angle, geometry of the blade profile and elimination of chips on the edge. Most often, this work is carried out on special machines.

Let's move on to a description of the main options for sharpening stones.

Japanese water stones

They are used equally effectively at all stages of sharpening. There are artificial analogues (on a ceramic basis), but professionals use original, natural materials. Stones require special care, because the most important rule craftsmen - a perfectly flat grinding stone surface.

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"To check the level of the stone, use a simple method. Moisten the block and place it on a piece of paper on a flat surface. The print will allow you to assess the level of evenness of the stone.

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Novaculites, or "Arkansas", "Turkish", "Belgian" stones, are natural shale and chalcedony interspersed with the smallest particles of garnet and quartz. Used today as natural stonesand their artificial substitutes.

Important! The stones only work in combination with a special oil lubricant. The extraordinary and inimitable structure of the stones allows them to be used at different stages of processing.

Musat for sharpening knives

Musat is a kind of file, most often installed vertically. The peculiarity of this tool is that its surface is magnetized, which means that metal flour will not fall on you.

Musats come in different shapes: round, faceted, flat with beveled edges

Each variation has its merits. So, for example, a round musat weighs a little, but an oval one sharpens better, since its edges provide more complete contact with the processed surface. Quadrangular - more versatile, here you can improve the quality required angle sharpening.

Household manual knife sharpening machines

You can talk for hours about the options and varieties of manual machines used in everyday life. These are both familiar household mini-sharpeners, known to almost everyone, and more specific devices with a polishing wheel.

The easiest way is to work with mini-sharpeners that control the course of the instrument. In this case, the degree of sharpening depends on the effort that the person makes.

Household Electric Knife Sharpeners

Electric grinders are more convenient. Working with them saves time. Most often, such driven machines have different operating modes, which are controlled by switches.

Typically, these machines are compact, safe, simple and reliable, since all the grinding wheels are hidden inside the body. In this case, the sharpening angle is regulated by a special spring, which completely eliminates errors in sharpening.

Professional manual knife sharpeners

Professional hand tool a bit like a carpenter's vice. The object of sharpening, in fact, a knife, is clamped with special clamps.

The grinder itself is installed on the stop. It is very important to fix the machine correctly and to avoid slipping of the tool during sharpening.

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"If you do not have the skills to work with this tool, it is better to use automatic sharpeners. In addition, such a machine cannot be assembled without certain knowledge.

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Professional electric knife sharpening machines

Professional machines are distinguished by their versatility. Usually this is an apparatus with a massive abrasive disc. Such tools allow you to sharpen not only knives, but also locksmith tools, for example, planers and chisels.

The combination of low speed and constant cooling results in high-quality processing of products already at the stage of forming the incisal edge. And in the final stages of work, they provide the blade razor sharpness... IN professional tool a large number of attachments and removable discs are provided. Moreover, the clamp, where the blade is fixed, can freely move along the support in the horizontal direction. Moreover, you can adjust the sharpening angle.

How to sharpen a knife correctly

For high-quality sharpening of the machine, experience and certain knowledge are needed. Let's start with the basics.

Optimal sharpening angles and sharpness for kitchen knives

It's no secret that there are a lot of knives for different materials. A good housewife has her own knife for vegetables and meat. Consider correct angles sharpening of various tools.

Tool type	Sharpening angle
Razor and medical scalpel	10-50 °
Professional for chefs	20-25 °
Universal	25-30 °
For complex jobs	25-30 °
Cutlery kitchen utensils	55-60 °
For fillet	15-20 °
Home universal	30-35 °
Boning and butchering	25-30 °
Professional for fish	25 °
Professional for vegetables	35 °
Hunting and "Swiss" (sharp)	30-35 °
Hunting and "Swiss", blunt-resistant	40-45 °

For your information! Blades with a sharpening angle of 50 ° are considered the sharpest knives; such versions, with a certain steel grade, can cut nails. When sharpening knives, you can vary the angle at your discretion within the named range.

In general, the sharpness of the blade depends on the shape of the blade. And she, in turn, must correlate with certain clear correspondences of the relationship between blade and blade.

How to sharpen a knife at home with a bar

The process is simple, but quite painstaking. It is pointless to try this process without sharpening experience. Typically, craftsmen use two whetstones with different abrasive densities - coarse and fine.

The household always has cutting, sawing and planing tools. In the course of work, the sharpness is lost, and the blades have to be restored. You can give knives - planers to the workshop, but money is spent on this, and it takes too much time. Therefore, DIYers prefer to sharpen the tool.

Important! Only blades with a certain degree of hardening can be sharpened. If the cutting part has a hardness higher than 55 HRC, it cannot be sharpened with improvised tools.

You can buy a knife sharpener or other household utensil from the store. Save time, but spend a lot - good sharpeners are expensive.

By the way, there are different opinions about the name of the knife sharpening device. Emery, a touchstone, a whetstone, a sharpener, a grind ...

Can these definitions mean the same item, or different products? We will tell you about this and how to make such a device yourself in the article.

Since the appearance of cutting objects (weapons, knives, axes), people have been looking for a way to restore the sharpness of the edge. In the Bronze and Copper Age, it was easy.