Manual tool for sharpening knives. Tool for sharpening knives with your own hands: from simple to complex. Sharpener manufacturing steps

Blunt knives on the farm can be not only a reason for a bad mood of the hostess, but also a cause of accidents. Hardware stores have an assortment of knife sharpening tools, but not all of them suit customers. Alternatively, you can make a machine for sharpening knives yourself, the drawings for its manufacture are not difficult for a person who knows how to tinker.

Types of stones for processing blades

Before you start making a do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, you need to familiarize yourself with the information about its components. Sharpening stones, or they can also be called - abrasive stones are one of the decisive factors in achieving an excellent result, but the skill of the master plays an equally important role.

Varieties of whetstones

So it takes a lot of practice to get the perfect sharpening.

There are the following types of stones suitable for sharpening cutting surfaces:

• Tools that require water to work with. The advantage of this type of whetstone is that it saves material - the surface of the tool is less prone to wear.
• Oil stones are similar in structure to water stones, but have an oily surface.
• Natural stones are made from natural materials. Before making a tool, such a stone is subjected to industrial processing.
• Artificial stones - artificial materials are used in their manufacture. It is believed that a tool made from unnatural components is inferior in quality to natural materials, but at the same time they are quite cheap.

If you wish, you can make a homemade abrasive bar. To do this, you need to take a flat plexiglass with a thickness of 5 mm rectangular and use double-sided tape to glue sandpaper on it. This is the easiest way to make a knife sharpener, it is convenient because when the sandpaper is worn out, it is easy to replace it.

Why is the sharpening angle so important?

The angle between the edges of the blade is called the sharpening angle. Accurate observance of a given angle is a basic requirement when processing a cutting surface with an abrasive tool, and it is its value that affects the sharpness of the blade.

Using a simple marker, you can control the turning angle, just paint over the sharpened area with it. Even paint erasure indicates a good finish on the blade.

Prerequisites for a grinding machine

In order to make for knives with your own hands, you need to carefully plan the stages of work and draw up drawings. If the master has experience, he can develop them independently or use ready-made drawings that are offered in special literature.

For perfect processing of the cutting surface, the machine must meet the following requirements:

• reliable and at the same time not too rigid fixation of the knife in a vice;
• observance of the value of the angle, in the process of sharpening the angle must be constant;
• the design of the machine should provide for the possibility of changing the sharpening angle.

You can read below how to make your own blade dressing devices that are in no way inferior to purchased mechanisms.

DIY knife sharpener

The most affordable grinder option

Making the fastest version of the device. To do this, you need to prepare 2 pairs of wooden corners, an abrasive block and a protractor to correctly determine the sharpening angle. The dimensions of the bars must be the same. Wooden corners are fastened together using adjustable screws, and between them a sharpening block is securely fixed at the required angle.

Despite the ease of manufacture, such machines have a number of disadvantages, these include:

• the angle of processing has to be maintained manually - which is not very convenient for a long processing process;
• the need for rigid fixation of the device on the working surface for its stability;
• when sharpening, you need to constantly monitor the tension of the screeds so that the bar does not change its position.

But it should be noted that such simple homemade products are quite suitable for processing household kitchen knives and do not require large financial investments in their manufacture.

Handheld Adjustable Bar Grinder

This machine is a more complex structure, but it is much more convenient to use. The basis for its creation was a model of a machine that bears the name - Lansky's sharpener.

Lansky sharpener

The advantage of such models is the reliable fixation of the knife blade.

The device is a support table on which the knife is fixed. At the opposite end of the table, a screw stand with a bar is vertically fixed. A guide rod is inserted into this bar, on which the abrasive bar is mounted. By moving the bar along the helical bar, you can change the value of the metal processing angle.

The advantages of machines with a similar design include:

• high processing accuracy;
• the possibility of replacing the bar with sandpaper glued to plexiglass;
• the wide support base allows the machine to be fixed on any table.

During the operation of the machine, the difficulty lies only in the continuous adjustment of the position of the grindstone. If you plan to process different types of blades, you will have to reconfigure the device each time.

Adjustable knife position

An alternative to a machine with a movable grindstone is a device where it is possible to adjust the position of the knife relative to the bar. Basically, its design is similar to an adjustable bar machine, a little easier to manufacture.

A movable block is mounted on the plane of the base for fastening a rod with a bar. Clamps are also installed on it, one adjustable, the second persistent. With the help of an adjustable clamp, the sharpening angle can be adjusted.

The only drawback of this model is the appearance of wear on the bar in one specific place. This drawback can be eliminated by installing a long pin to adjust the edge relative to the surface to be processed.

Each of the above options has its own advantages and disadvantages. When making a choice in favor of a particular model, it is necessary to focus on the level of skills and the magnitude of the needs for the operation of the machine.

Video: Making a knife sharpening machine

Currently, there are several types: a machine for sharpening knives, a machine for a hairdressing salon and others. This article talks about how to make a machine for sharpening knives at home: detailed drawings with dimensions, photos and videos (2-3 videos) are presented.

Often, when sharpening knives at home, households use abrasive sticks. However, in order to use them in practice, you need the necessary skills and experience with them. After all, if the knife is sharpened at the wrong angle, then the blade remains dull.

Diagram of the location of the block to the blade.

Before the direct manufacture of the machine, you need to heed the advice from locksmiths-sharpeners.

When sharpening a knife, the master performs the following actions:

Determines the angle between the active area of \u200b\u200bthe blade and the block. Moreover, for each model, the angles are different;

The knife is angled 90 degrees to the direction of the bar. The grooves that form when the razor descent of the knife rub against the block should be 90 degrees to the knife line. The angle in a similar situation is half the sharpening;

Typically, the angle is 25 degrees;

The locksmith starts processing from the beginning of the foot blade;

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the master paints over part of the foot blade with any marker. As a result, the locksmith directly controls the work area.

As a rule, after sharpening, the working blade has non-uniform deformations. Therefore, when self-processing, the "reference point" should not be the sharp part of the knife.

Choosing blocks for sharpening a knife

The main indicator of the bar is grain size.

The bar is the main component that makes the blade thin and sharp. As a result, before choosing a design, it is necessary to select the necessary blocks.

When sharpening knives on their own, the household uses these types of blocks

which have a high grain size. By using such blocks, the shape of the foot blade is corrected.

having an average grain size. With the help of such bars, the locksmith removes the grooves that are formed during the initial processing of the knife

touchstone, which is covered with GOM paste. In a situation like this, the locksmith polishes the blade.

When processing knives in the kitchen, you can use two types - with medium and high grit. And also in this case it is necessary to use a touchstone.

Base

When making grinding machine different parts can be used at home. In particular, you can use a laminated box plywood 12 mm thick, which was previously used in the creation of radio enclosures.

When building a machine at home, a household member performs the following actions:

Selects the basis for such an installation, which must weigh at least 5 kg. Otherwise, it will be impossible to sharpen chopping devices and tools on the machine. Therefore, in the manufacture of such equipment, the tenant uses various steel corners measuring 20x20 mm;

Further, from plywood he cuts 2 parts with a jigsaw, which have a trapezoidal shape, the base is 170 by 60 mm, and the height is 230 mm. When cutting, the locksmith makes an allowance of 0.7 mm for sharpening the ends: they eventually turn out to be straight and fit according to the marking;

Installs between the inclined walls on the sides 3 part - an inclined plywood surface of such dimensions 230 x 150 mm.

In such a situation, the trapezoidal sides are on the side on a rectangular surface.

The result is a base - a wedge. In such a situation, a 40 mm inclined protrusion is formed in the front part;

Then, along the side wall ends, the locksmith marks 2 features with a thickness gauge. At the same time, it retreats by half the thickness of the plywood;

Drills the ends of an inclined surface and connects the base parts for a while;

At the back of the structure, the locksmith connects the side walls using a 60x60 mm block, which is attached to the end with two screws from 2 sides; - makes a 10 mm gap in the block.

In such a situation, it retreats 50 mm from the center - 25 mm from the edge. To maintain a vertical position, it is first drilled with a non-thick drill from 2 edges, and then expanded;

Then, at the top and bottom, two threaded fittings are screwed into the slot, and in the fittings - a 10 mm stud, the length of which is 250 mm.

If the threads do not coincide with the studs, the lower case is adjusted.

Assistant device

In the manufacture of a helper device, the following actions are performed:

Removes the flat inclined part from the base, modifies it and installs the fixation device on it, as well as the clamp of the used device;

Measures 40 mm from the edge in front and at this mark, using a garden hacksaw, cuts out a groove, the depth of which is 2 mm;

Using a boot knife, 2 upper veneered layers are chipped off the end of the board. As a result, a sample is obtained into which the locksmith inserts a 2 mm steel plate flush with the total surface;

The handler includes 2 steel slats with dimensions of 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. The machine operator connects them along the big end, which has equal marginal indents, and makes 3 through slots by 6 mm.

With the help of bolts, it pulls the strips along the cracks made. In a similar situation, the machine operator leaves the bolt heads on the side of the large upper plate;

Then he removes metal defects of the welded seam in the form of sagging and grinds the plate to give it a smooth surface;

Attaches a small striker to the edge cut, transfers the crevices with a drill and bolts the handrail.

Fixation device

The second important part of the handcuff is the clamping bar. It can be made from 2 parts.

L-shaped bar measuring 150x180 mm, the width of the shelves of which is 50 mm (top);

Mounting plate in the form of a rectangle measuring 50x100 mm (bottom).

In the manufacture of the clamping bar, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Sets the bottom plank to the far edge of the top;

Makes 2 holes in the center and retreats 25 mm from the edges of the part, through the holes connects the parts with two 8 mm bolts;

Screws in 8mm bolts on 2 sides. In a similar situation, the close bolt's hat is located near the top bar;

Welds the heads of the bolts to the plates and grinds in advance until roundness is formed;

Yes, the inclined board retreats 40 mm from the edge and draws a line with a planer;

Makes one 8 mm gap in 25 mm at the edges at the bottom and top;

With the help of markings, he connects the edges of the slots and makes a cut with an allowance with a jigsaw. Expands the groove with a file to a width of 8.5 mm;

Fastens the planks with a groove, which is in the board, tightens the upper bolt with a nut and, thus, firmly fixes the plank.

Then he tightens the connection with a nut;

When pressing the lower bar (in the base niche), it winds a wing nut onto the second bolt.

Sharpening angle control

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the locksmith performs the following actions:

On the stud, which is in the block of the machine base, he throws a large washer and tightens the nut.

The rod does not rotate in the case; it makes a block for adjusting the sharpening angle from a small carbolite bar, the dimensions of which are 20x40x80 mm.

At 15 mm from the shoe edge, he drills the end of 20 mm from 2 sides, expands the gap to 9 mm, then makes a thread inside;

He retreats 50 mm from the axis of the new slot and drills another one in the flat part of the workpiece - 90 degrees to the previous one. This slot has a diameter of 14 mm. In such a situation, the locksmith greatly expands the hole using a round rasp;

Screws the block onto the spire - sets the required eye height without using fixing screws;

Fastens the block from 2 sides with M10 hex nuts.

Using interchangeable blocks and making a carriage

When making a sharpening carriage, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Welds 30 cm M10 threaded rods with a smooth rod, the thickness of which is 10 mm;

Uses 2 solid bars 50x80 mm and the thickness is 20 mm. In all the blocks in the center and on top, 20 mm retreats from the edge, and then makes a gap 10 mm wide;

Screws a wing nut onto the bar, then a large washer and 2 bars, then a nut and washer;

Clamps rectangular sharpening stones between the bars or makes several replaceable sharpening stones.

As a block base, the machine operator uses a rectangular tube from a profile or a piece of cornice, the width of which is 50 mm;

Sands the flat machine part and cleans it of grease, glue the strips of sandpaper with a grain size of up to 1200 grit with Super Moment glue.

The sandpaper should have a fabric base, and a strip of suede should be glued onto 1 of the blocks to apply polishing to the blades.

Simple homemade machine

The most common version of the machine structure is considered to be 2 pairs of wooden slats, which are fastened together with screws. The machine operator installs a block between such parts.

The main reason for the popularity of usemanual a homemade machine for sharpening various knives is its stability. During operation, the machine structure does not move in any way along the workbench.

When fixing the block, the locksmith uses the support strips, which are located between the wooden elements.

However, such a homemade machine has the following disadvantages:

The craftsman sets the blade to the stone manually. With prolonged work, it is difficult to keep track of the sharpening corner;

When making such an installation, it is necessary to use a fixing unit. The machine structure must be stable, so it must be firmly attached to the workbench;

In the process of work, the screeds weaken and the location of the block changes.

Another advantage of such a scheme is the ease of manufacture. Such a machine structure is often used when sharpening knives for a jointer and for the kitchen.

Wooden slats can be different thicknesses... When self-production a simple sharpening machine, you can use various available components.

During the initial study of all the nuances of manufacturing, you need to watch thematic videos, which describe in detail how to make a machine at home.

We use a knife to cook food, cut food and do other household tasks. It is therefore very important that the knife blade remains sharp at all times. Theoretically, there is nothing difficult in sharpening knives, but in practice it turns out that not everyone is good at sharpening the blade. To have an idea of \u200b\u200bhow to sharpen knives and how to do it correctly, we advise you to read our article.

Before you start sharpening a knife, you need to find out what material it is made of. There are several types of knives:

• • Carbon steel knives are the most affordable, made from an alloy of iron and carbon, are easy to sharpen and stay sharp for a long time. Among the disadvantages, it can be noted - oxidation of the knife blade from interaction with food or an acidic environment, for this reason, rust and stains appear on the knife, and the products acquire a metallic taste. Over time, after the formation of plaque on the blade, oxidation stops.

• • Low carbon stainless steel knives - made from an alloy of iron, chromium, carbon and in some cases nickel or molybdenum. Stainless steel knives are inferior in hardness to carbon steel, so they quickly become dull and require regular sharpening. The advantages include corrosion resistance.

• • High carbon stainless steel knives - a higher class of knives with a higher carbon content and additions of cobalt or vanadium. Due to the higher quality alloy, given view knives do not require frequent sharpening and are not subject to corrosion.

• • Damascus steel knives - mostly made as edged weapons, but there are also kitchen options... Damascus steel knife is a multi-layer blade made of different high quality alloys. The disadvantages include the high cost of knives.

• Ceramic knives - gained popularity due to their sharpness and ability not to dull for a long time. But in addition to the advantages, ceramic knives have a significant disadvantage, which lies in their fragility when dropped from a height and poor resistance to fracture.

Sharpening tools

Touchstone (whetstone)

Sharpening stones are available with different amounts of abrasive grains per square millimeter... Therefore, for coarse sharpening and finishing sanding, you need to use bars with a minimum and maximum abrasive content. In foreign-made whetstones, information on the amount of abrasive grains is on their marking. Sharpening stones of domestic production have to be chosen "by eye" or ask the seller which touchstone to use for the primary and which for the final sharpening.

Mechanical sharpener

Mechanical sharpeners are mainly used to sharpen kitchen knives. Although the sharpening process is fast, the quality leaves much to be desired. For this reason, other sharpening methods are recommended for hunting and sporting knives.

Electric sharpener

Modern models electric sharpeners, allow you to achieve high quality sharpening, due to the built-in function, automatic determination of the angle of inclination of the blade. The electric sharpener is great for both household use and for sharpening knives in catering organizations. The range of electric sharpeners is presented in a wide range, so the price may be different, but if you want your knives to always remain sharp, then buy more "advanced" and expensive models.

Musat

Musat - designed to maintain the sharpness of the knife edge. In shape, the musat resembles a round file with a handle. Musat are included in knife sets, and many owners often confuse them with a tool for a full sharpening of the blade. Please note that with the help of musat you can maintain the sharpness of a sharpened knife, but if the knife is completely dull, you will not be able to sharpen it with musat.

Sharpener "Lansky"

This sharpener is used for sharpening small and medium sized knives. The design of the sharpener allows you to sharpen the blade at the angle you choose. The Lansky sharpener consists of a rod with a removable whetstone and two corners connected to each other. The corners simultaneously serve as a knife vise and a scale for choosing the sharpening angle. The sharpener also comes with ANSI-graded sharpening stones in various grit sizes.

Grinding and grinding machines

Grinding machines are mainly used in manufacturing for high-precision sharpening of the blades of rotating shafts. In addition to high precision machine tools, there are electrically driven abrasive wheels and rotating grinding discs. Sharpening of knives on such machines should be carried out only by an experienced craftsman, because due to the speed of rotation of the circle or disk and the high heating temperature, with any unsuccessful movement, the knife blade will become unusable.

Self sharpening blades

Sharpening a knife with a donkey

The sharpening of the blade, produced by a sharpening bar, is considered the highest quality, of course, provided that it was produced experienced master... To sharpen a knife on a sharpening block, do the following:

1. 1. Place a whetstone with a low abrasive grain content on a stationary surface. If the block is small, you can clamp it in a vice.

1. 1. Keeping the knife at an angle of 20-25 degrees with respect to the surface of the block, begin the movement of the knife along the wheel with the cutting edge forward.

1. Move the blade along the bar so that during the movement it touches the surface of the donkey along its entire length.
2. Try to maintain the same blade angle while driving.
3. After 2-3 strokes, turn the knife over and repeat the sharpening process on the other side of the blade.
4. Thus, alternating sides, sharpen the knife until an edge (burr) appears along the edge of the blade.
5. Exchange the coarse whetstone for a grinding block.
6. Sand the knife blade until the edge disappears.
7. Test the sharpness of the knife by cutting the hemp rope folded several times, or try cutting a piece of paper.

How to sharpen a knife with a sharpening bar, see also the video:

Sharpening a hunting knife on a Lansky sharpener

Hunting knives are made of solid steel, so their initial sharpening requires sharpening stones with a low abrasive grain content.

• Clamp the knife in the vice of the sharpener.
• Place a low abrasive grindstone on the rod.
• Select the angle of inclination of the bar (for hunting knives, it is usually between 20 and 30 degrees).
• Insert the rod into the desired hole.
• Lubricate the touchstone with the special oil included in the sharpener kit.
• Start moving the bar along the edge of the knife, from base to tip.
• Turn the sharpener over and repeat the process on the other side of the knife.
• Once the edge has formed, change the block and make the final sanding.
• Since hunting knives are mainly made with a double-sided blade, after finishing sharpening on one side, change the position of the knife in the vice and start the sharpening process on the other side.
• When finished sharpening, polish the knife blade with felt.

How to sharpen knives in the Lansky sharpener, see the video:

Scissors sharpening

Sharpening of scissors must be done on a special sharpening machine. Sharpening the blades with the help of improvised (sandpaper, glass edge, etc.) can temporarily improve the sharpness of the scissors, but not for long. If you do not have the opportunity to sharpen scissors from a professional, then you can try to do your own sharpening with an abrasive stone. When sharpening, you need to follow a few simple rules:

• The sharpening stone must be fine-grained.
• The blade is sharpened over the entire surface of the edge simultaneously.
• The angle of inclination of the blade must match the factory edge.
• The movement of the blade over the stone should be done from the screw to the tip.
• You need to sharpen the scissors disassembled.

When sharpening scissors, do not rush, patience will be your ally in this matter.

How to quickly sharpen scissors can also be seen in the video:

Sharpening planer blades and chisels

Sharpening of the planer blade and chisel practically do not differ from each other. Therefore, the sharpening process described below applies to both tools:

• Place the chisel on the whetstone at an angle of 30-40 degrees.
• While holding the chisel with your hand, press the chamfer against the donkey with the fingers of your free hand.
• Start running the chisel over the grindstone until a burr forms on the smooth side of the chisel.
• Change the touchstone to a fine-grained one and make the final grinding of the chisel.
• Check the sharpness of the chisel blade by removing the shavings from the corner of the block.

In addition to manual sharpening, the chisel can be sharpened on a machine with a rotating abrasive disc:

1. Turn on the machine and let the blade reach full speed.
2. Holding the chisel with both hands, place the chamfer against the sharpening disc.
3. Be sure to observe the angle of inclination of the chisel, otherwise you will ruin the tool blade.
4. Do not press down on the chisel with great force and do not hold it too long on the disc, this will overheat the metal and destroy the blade.
5. While sharpening, wet the blade with water.
6. The final grinding of the chisel blade is best done by hand, using a fine-grained bar or sandpaper.

Do not forget that when sharpening products on the machine, a lot of sparks and small particles are formed that can get into the eyes, so be sure to work with protective glasses. And so as not to injure your hands on the spinning disc, wear gloves.

You can also learn how to sharpen tools from the video:

Tips for sharpening your blade quickly with handy tools

A rock

You can quickly spice up the knife on a hike or on a picnic using an ordinary cobblestone. Use any stone lying on the ground instead of a whetstone and run the blade of a knife over its surface. You will not achieve razor sharpness, but you will return the knife to working condition.

Second knife

It is quite possible to sharpen two knives at once, without sharpening stones and devices. To do this, you need to take a knife in both hands and start sharpening the blade of one knife on the blade of the other. After 5-10 minutes of such work, the knives will become sharper than before.

Glass objects

The knife blade can be sharpened slightly against the rough edge of glass or ceramic objects. For example, about the bottom of a glass or the edge of a tile. The main thing is that the surface is rough.

Leather belt

A leather belt is more suitable for finishing and shaving the blade of a knife than for rough sharpening. But if there is nothing at hand besides the belt, then you can try to sharpen the knife on it. To do this, you need to give the belt a stretch and start driving the blade along it, you may not achieve a strong sharpness, but you will polish the knife to a shine.


Having learned how to sharpen knives and tools on your own, you will acquire a skill that will be useful to you throughout your life!

You can sharpen a dull knife without going to the workshop and spending extra money on your own - you need a grinding stone and a steady hand. The difficulty is that it is not easy for a person without experience to maintain the angle of inclination of the blade in relation to the abrasive bar, and without this the knife can be spoiled: bend, bend or blunt even more.

It is more convenient to restore the sharpness of the cutting edge with a device that is easy to do in 2 hours from scrap materials - those remnants that can be found on a balcony, in a garage or a shed. A do-it-yourself knife sharpener can be both a primitive system and a complex functional unit.

The knife sharpening device will greatly facilitate the work.

The main types of homemade devices

The main condition for homemade scissors is not to distort the angle between the edges of the blades set in production. It is not easy to withstand it by hand without a full hand and skill.

The device fixes the sharpening angle, so sharpening a knife with a special tool is much easier than with a bar.

The following are the simplest and most popular sharpeners, each of which can be made independently:

A sharpening (abrasive) bar or stone is a necessary element of any factory or home-made device for sharpening a knife. It is convenient when it has the shape of a rectangle (should be longer than the blade), it is easier to sharpen the tool.

Stones come in different grains: large, medium and fine.

It is determined by the number of grains per unit area and is expressed as a number, the smaller it is, the rougher the stone.

For sharpening knives, you will need medium to fine grain bars.

For sharpening knives, abrasives with a grain size of 200-350 are not used. Such grains can deform the blade. The knives are sharpened on blocks with an average grain - from 600. After the main processing, the blade is polished and polished with 1000-1200-grain sandpaper.

A double-sided bar, when on one side a rough abrasive surface, and on the other - more graceful, is doubly convenient, since it can be used to make the main sharpening of the knife and finishing.

Stones also differ in the material from which they are made. Natural - from shale and corundum rocks. These stones are coarse grained, they grind off quickly, as they are moistened with water or oil during work. There are diamond and ceramic bars, which are more wear-resistant and will last longer than natural ones.

Self-production of a simple model

All homemade devices for sharpening knives help to accurately maintain a given angle of inclination of the bar to the blade, which is important for maintaining the performance of the tool and obtaining a good cutting edge of the blade.

Simple for self assembly is a machine designed by Lansky. To do it, you do not need special training or special technical knowledge. You will need a minimum of the simplest materials always at hand. In a store, such a machine costs about 1,500 rubles.

The principle of operation of the device Lansky machine is that the knife is securely fixed and its processing occurs at a given angle using replaceable sharpening nozzles made of stone of different grain size. The result is a sharp blade.

Step by step master class

Mandatory consumables:

1. A metal bar with a diameter of 6 mm, which must be cut into rods of different lengths.
2. Welding electrode for the manufacture of angle guides. It is completely cleaned of flux and sanded with medium-grained sandpaper.
3. 3-5mm carbon stainless steel for clamps. Through holes are made in them. Tip: Machine oil will make it easier to drill grooves in the plates. The oil can be washed off with a concentrated solution of soap residues.
4. Metal corners measuring 9x9x0.6 cm.
5. Fasteners: nuts, screws.

Sequencing:

1. The corners are cut with a grinding machine with a diamond disc (grinder), the edges of which are then leveled with a file and sanded with sandpaper.
2. In horizontal and vertical planes holes are drilled.
3. The bevels of the guide rail are processed.
4. A rack is made from a bolt with a nut. Then they fix it in a clamp or a vice so that the whole structure is securely fixed.
5. Assemble the entire device.
6. An abrasive and a knife are attached.
7. Test the device.

Blade sharpening rules

There are several subtleties that are important when sharpening knives:

• it is recommended to start processing the blade from the base of the knife, from its bluest part;
• the edge of the blade is advised to be painted over with a marker in any color, so as not to protrude beyond the working area when sharpening;
• the sharp edge should be perpendicular to the grindstone;
• household knives are sharpened at an angle of 20-25º;
• the movements should also be correct: sharpening should be smooth and even, without much pressure;
• finally, the blade can be passed several times over the belt rubbed with goyi paste.

Knife sharpening angle diagram.

Device for sharpening from mounting angles

The prototype of the homemade sharpener from the mounting angles is the drawing of Lansky's aforementioned professional sharpener.

To make such adaptations, you need:

• metal plates 4x11cm;
• corners made of aluminum;
• metal rods 15cm long;
• bolts and nuts;
• tap for threading;
• grinding machine for metal;
• vise or clamps;
• small file for fine sanding work.

You can do without a grinder. It will be replaced by a file or any tool that can smooth sharp corners of metal structures.

A high-quality do-it-yourself knife can be made from mounting corners.

Assembly sequence:

1. On metal plates, according to the scheme, designations are made where to drill the grooves.
2. A thread is cut in the prepared holes of the taps.
3. To make the sharpener comfortable, all surfaces of the metal structure are processed with a file: they round off sharp corners, cut off the burrs, level the edges;
4. Holes are drilled in the corners according to the drawing.
5. With a file, the space for supporting the rod is expanded.
6. A thread is cut in the holes with a tap.
7. The rods inserted into the extreme grooves are tightened with nuts with a diameter of 6 mm.
8. A 14 cm bolt with a diameter of 8 mm is screwed into the widened hole in the base. Before this, a wing nut must be screwed onto the bolt, and two nuts must be screwed onto it. This bolt will support the entire structure.
9. Bolts are attached to the remaining grooves. With their help, the blade will be fixed.
10. Nuts are screwed onto the rods, a corner is strung and fastened. The sharpening angle will be adjusted by raising or lowering the rods.
11. A device for attaching an abrasive stone is assembled from a thin L-shaped metal rod, a threaded rod with a diameter of 6 mm, two holders and a wing nut. The extreme holder must have a through hole for the spoke.

Such a knife sharpening device is quickly assembled, convenient to use and has a wide range of degrees of sharpening angle.

Why is the sharpening angle so important?

The angle of the cutting wedge (distance between the edges of the blade) is an important characteristic of any knife. It is set during production, depends on the function of the cutting tool and varies from 55º (machete) to 10º (scalpel).

• for splitting and cutting hard materials - splitting bones, chopping bamboo, splitting coconut - you need a strong cutter with an angle between the edges of the blades 45-55º;
• knives for separating meat from bone and cutting fibers with veins are sharpened at an angle of 40 °;
• for a blade similar in functionality to an ax (it can chop wood, chop meat, cut straw), an angle of 35-40º is typical;
• universal knives (hunting or fishermen) sharpen at an angle of 30-35º;
• for standard kitchen work (cutting bread, vegetables, cheese), an angle of 25-30º is suitable;
• for fillet cutting, the tool is sharpened at an angle of 10-15º;
• the straight razor blade and scalpel have an angle of 8-12º.

In order for the knife to work properly and serve for a long time, it is important to sharpen it at the right angle.

The myth of supposedly self-sharpening knives quickly broke up…. About everyday life. This is not surprising, the laws of physics, there are laws of physics, against them, so to speak, even marketers are powerless. If knives are not sharpened in the house, if you remember the famous bard, there is nothing good. Today, the editors of the site will help solve the problem of dull blades and tell you how and with what you can properly sharpen a knife at home. We will introduce our readers to different types tools for sharpening knives, we will tell you about their effectiveness, and also teach you how to make a simple sharpener at home.

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Types of devices for sharpening knives

A sharpening stone for sharpening knives is probably the very first device of this type. A simple, and, most importantly, affordable tool has been successfully coping with its task for many millennia.

Until now, the classification of machines depends on this once uncontested grindstone. The type of abrasive material can be:

• bars;
• sharpening stones.

By drive type:

• manual;
• electrically driven.

At the place of use:

• homemade;
• professional.

However, in the modern world, only a simple hunting knife can be sharpened with a grindstone. In other cases, the quality will be poor. In addition, only soft metals are sharpened with a stone, if the cutting part of the blade has a hardness higher than 55 HRC, you cannot sharpen it with improvised means.

Important! Each blade type has a different edge angle. And during sharpening, it must be held along the entire length of the processed surface of the product.

Several types of modern whetstones are still used today. An example of this natural stones - Japanese water stone (we showed it in the photo above) or American "Arkansas". Master sharpeners even conduct special master classes on sharpening knives using natural stone. Interestingly, before the processing process, it is soaked in water, sometimes with soapy water, and dried after work. The whole process resembles a sacrament for initiates. So it shouldn't come as a surprise that these rocks are too expensive, and most sharpeners use artificial abrasive surfaces.

Knife sharpening bars

These are artificially turned abrasive coated bars suitable for manual sharpening of both carpentry and locksmith tools, as well as kitchen knives.

Bars, depending on the material from which they are made, can be of different degrees of wear resistance and grain size. Let's consider the main types of materials that are used in the manufacture of whetstones:

1. Natural stones, such as novaculite or Japanese water stone. It is not very easy to work with such a tool. They require certain skills and skill.
2. Diamond (diamond-coated) - can be of different shapes and grain sizes. Wear resistant. Affordable price.
3. Ceramic... Belong to more modern look bars for sharpening. Combines the hardness of a diamond coating with the hardness of a natural stone.
4. Artificial: fused alumina or carbide. Fast grinding abrasive, low quality and the same price.

Artificial abrasives are created by mixing diamond powders of different fractions, as well as electrocorundum and carbide.

Important! In this case, the material used for bonding the rock, as well as the percentage of all elements, is of great importance. The stronger and better the composition (this also applies to the particles themselves), the more resistant the grinding abrasive will be.

Moreover, there are two types of bundles of elements - galvanic and soft bundles. In the first case, the crystals are glued strictly to the surface of their base, made of a nickel alloy. In fact, the crystals are located in a very thin layer on the bar. A soft bond is a chaotic arrangement of bonding and abrasive elements. The second type is less wear-resistant.

Sharpening stones for knives

If we talk in more detail about sharpening stones, you need to talk about the main varieties used in such tools, this will help you understand the process in detail and understand how to sharpen the knife correctly. But before talking about them, one cannot fail to mention the stages of sharpening, which in this context will play a decisive role in the description of different materials and machines.

Stage	Description	Illustration
Sharpening	Restoring a blunt edge without correcting the sharpening angle.
Debugging	Edge grinding with fine grain abrasives.
Edit	Polishing bevels and cutting edges with a ceramic pencil, GOI paste or on a leather belt.
Resharpening (deep sharpening)	Complete restoration of the desired sharpening angle, geometry of the blade profile and elimination of chips on the edge. Most often, this work is carried out on special machines.

Let's move on to describing the main options for sharpening stones.

Japanese water stones

They are used equally effectively at all stages of sharpening. There are artificial analogues (on a ceramic basis), but professionals use original, natural materials. Stones require special care, because the most important rule craftsmen - a perfectly flat grinding stone surface.

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"To check the level of the stone, use a simple method. Wet the block and place it on a piece of paper on a flat surface. The print will allow you to assess the level of evenness of the stone.

"

Novaculites, or "Arkansas", "Turkish", "Belgian" stones, are natural shale and chalcedony interspersed with the smallest particles of garnet and quartz. Today, both natural stones and their artificial substitutes are used.

Important! The stones only work in combination with a special oil lubricant. The extraordinary and inimitable structure of the stones allows them to be used at different stages of processing.

Musat for sharpening knives

Musat is a kind of file, most often installed vertically. The peculiarity of this tool is that its surface is magnetized, which means that metal flour will not fall on you.

Musats come in different shapes: round, faceted, flat with beveled edges

Each variation has its merits. So, for example, a round musat weighs a little, but an oval one sharpens better, since its edges provide more complete contact with the work surface. Quadrangular - more versatile, here you can improve the quality required angle sharpening.

Household manual knife sharpening machines

You can talk for hours about the options and varieties of hand-held machines used in everyday life. These are both familiar household mini-sharpeners, known to almost everyone, and more specific devices with a polishing wheel.

The easiest way is to work with mini-sharpeners that control the course of the instrument. In this case, the degree of sharpening depends on the effort that the person makes.

Household Electric Knife Sharpeners

Electric grinders are more convenient. Working with them saves time. Most often, such driven machines have different operating modes, which are controlled by switches.

Typically, these machines are compact, safe, simple and reliable, since all the grinding wheels are hidden inside the body. In this case, the sharpening angle is regulated by a special spring, which completely eliminates errors in sharpening.

Professional manual knife sharpeners

Professional hand tool a bit like a carpenter's vice. The object of sharpening, in fact, a knife, is clamped with special clamps.

The grinder itself is installed on the stop. It is very important to fix the machine correctly and to avoid slipping of the tool during sharpening.

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Tool selection specialist "VseInstrumenty.ru"

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"If you do not have the skills to work with this tool, it is better to use automatic sharpeners. In addition, such a machine cannot be assembled without certain knowledge.

"

Professional electric knife sharpening machines

Professional machines are distinguished by their versatility. Usually this is an apparatus with a massive abrasive disc. Such tools allow you to sharpen not only knives, but also locksmith tools, for example, planers and chisels.

The combination of low revolutions and constant cooling results in high-quality processing of products already at the stage of forming the incisal edge. And in the final stages of work, they provide the blade with a razor sharpness. IN professional tool a large number of attachments and removable discs are provided. Moreover, the clamp where the blade is fixed can freely move along the support in the horizontal direction. Moreover, you can adjust the sharpening angle.

How to sharpen a knife correctly

For high-quality sharpening of the machine, experience and certain knowledge are needed. Let's start with the basics.

Optimal sharpening angles and sharpness for kitchen knives

It's no secret that there are a lot of knives for different materials. A good housewife has her own knife for vegetables and meat. Consider correct angles sharpening of various tools.

Tool type	Sharpening angle
Razor and medical scalpel	10-50 °
Professional for chefs	20-25 °
Universal	25-30 °
For complex jobs	25-30 °
Cutlery kitchen utensils	55-60 °
For fillet	15-20 °
Home universal	30-35 °
Boning and butchering	25-30 °
Professional for fish	25 °
Professional for vegetables	35 °
Hunting and "Swiss" (sharp)	30-35 °
Hunting and "Swiss", blunt-resistant	40-45 °

Note! The sharpest knives are considered to be blades with a sharpening angle of 50 °, such versions, with a certain steel grade, can cut nails. When sharpening knives, you can vary the angle at your discretion within the named range.

In general, the sharpness of the blade depends on the shape of the blade. And it, in turn, must correlate with certain clear correspondences of the relationship between blade and blade.

How to sharpen a knife at home with a bar

The process is simple, but quite painstaking. It is pointless to try this process without sharpening experience. Typically, craftsmen use two whetstones with different abrasive densities - coarse and fine.